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Will - I'm not as familiar with the solid axle of the TR4, so this
may or may not be relevant to your situation. <br>
<br>
There are at least three styles of tube shock conversions for the
TR6 and I assume the 4A. The one with three triangular brackets
that go through the body (likely the one you looked at from Moss), A
bracket that bolts to the body with no frame attachment, and a
single plate bracket that bolts to the lever shock mount.<br>
<br>
Also watch for feedback on people that just get the lever shocks
rebuilt with a heavy duty rebuild. If I was starting over, that is
probably what I would do.<br>
<br>
A sample of the three plate design at Moss is 670-128 - see
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits">https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits</a> - the Monroe
shock version for the 4A is available. They have an article at
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/">http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/</a> It looks
like a sturdy design, but takes significant effort to install. Read
the instructions from their website.<br>
<br>
I do not recommend the bracket that just bolts to the body without a
frame attachments.<br>
<br>
I used the single plate version because it was much easier, but this
design leads to flexing of the frame cross member and cracking of
the frame, including mine. See the 0091, 2217, and 2218 images
attached of other people's cars discovered at a local club tech
clinic. If you have this design, I recommend you check the frame
cross member regularly. If you have the rear spring out for any
reason, run the trailing arm through its full range of motion and
you will probably see the top of the shock mount move front to rear.<br>
<br>
After having my frame cracks welded, I built a new version of the
single plate design available from some vendors. I extended the top
mount for the shock back about two inches and added two braces. One
is a length of 1" angle iron that goes between the two shock mounts
near the top of the bracket, just below the body to side to side
stability. The other is the more important addition and goes from
the top of the shock bracket rearward to the frame at about a 45 deg
angle. This one stops any front to rear motion of the shock
bracket. Unfortunately the car isn't easily accessible right now
and I can't find my pictures.<br>
<br>
Below is an item I wrote 20 years ago or so. The 5-6025 kit is the
single plate design that in my opinion needs at least the added
bracket from the top of the shock mount to the frame.<br>
<br>
<center style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Times New
Roman"; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent:
0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2;
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;
text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">
<h2>Tube Shock Conversion Notes</h2>
</center>
<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Times New
Roman"; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
initial; text-decoration-color: initial; display: inline
!important; float: none;">Notes on my TR6 tube shock conversion:</span>
<p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Times New
Roman"; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">> Would like to know
if anybody on the list has any knowledge or experience with<br>
> the shock conversion kit that v.b. sells as part # 5-6025.
It is listed on<br>
> page 11 in the summer catalog.......</p>
<p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Times New
Roman"; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">I put similar brackets
on my car. They are the easiest design to fit, taking about 30
minutes to install. I purchased my brackets from someone who made
them for his car for $40. I bought the shocks from Pep Boys for
$12.95 each. The VB shocks must be pretty good to command the
$189 price tag. My driving can often be aggressive, especially at
autocross events (2nd place in class at the Moss festival and
first overall at Triumphest in 1998). The cheap shock seem to
work fine for me in the rear, though I may just not know any
better. The PO put Koni's on the front.</p>
<p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Times New
Roman"; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">Installation made a
tremendous improvement in my car, but that's because my lever
shocks were dead. I've heard lots of good things about the heavy
duty rebuilds to the lever shocks. Doing it again, I'd give this
serious thought.</p>
<p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Times New
Roman"; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">Disadvantages of this
design:<br>
- When the car is in the air, the limit stop for the trailing arm
travel is the tube shock. I had a shock fail after only a year
(exchanged for free replacement). I think the other one may also
need replacement, as there's oil on the tube. This tension is
transferred through the shock to the bracket, at a slight angle,
torquing the frame cross member that holds the shocks and rear
differential mounts. I mention this because I just discovered
several broken welds including both rear differential mounts and
the crossemember to frame connection near the right shock mount.
The car had the differential reinforcing brackets installed for
the DPO. I don't know if the shock conversion caused this, but I
think it aggravated the problem. (Any comments on this from
others?)</p>
<p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Times New
Roman"; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">- You are limited in
tire width to 205 series tires, which may rub the bracket if you
have lots of camber or weak springs.</p>
<p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Times New
Roman"; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">Safety considerations:<br>
- The Gabrial shocks I purchased only have a single nut on each
end of the shock. The guy I got the brackets through had a shock
come undone. Your shocks should be double nutted. I used a
nylocs because I had a box of them, but any nut should work.</p>
<p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Times New
Roman"; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">- Check the tires and
brackets for rubbing. I have a little bit on the right side
recently, but nothing I'm concerned about. I can't see any
indication on the tire, just some rubber dust on the bracket. I
run 205/65 tires and will adjust the camber on the right tire.</p>
<p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Times New
Roman"; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">If your into welding,
you can make your own brackets looking at the picture. Drop me an
e-mail and I'll look up the shock number again. It's off 50's
Studebakers and Cadillacs if I remember correctly.</p>
<p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Times New
Roman"; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">The Moss kit is an
effort to install. It has three triangular brackets per side.
One to the standard shock mount, the second inside the body by the
fuel tank, and the third in the wheel well area. The first step
in the instructions was to remove the fuel tank.</p>
<p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Times New
Roman"; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">I'd always avoid a shock
that only bolts to the body. The dampening forces need to go to
the frame.</p>
<p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: "Times New
Roman"; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">Brian<br>
</p>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/6/2020 8:34 AM, Will Daehler
wrote:<br>
</div>
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<p class="MsoNormal">When going over bumps in my TR4 I have
quite a rattle from the right rear area of my car. I have
poked around by the axle, and thought I have fixed the problem
a couple of times. I have replaced the springs and refilled
the Armstrong shocks. I have poked around. While looking
through my Moss catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the
Armstrong shocks with these brackets that you could mount
shock absorbers to. But the kits are NLS. No Longer
Supplied. I was wondering why the kits were discontinued.
It could have been that they caused damage to the frame, or
just didn’t work. I was hoping somebody had any first-hand
knowledge or experience on this topic that they could discuss.
I wonder if the racing group all have custom and proprietary
set ups.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Will Daehler<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">63 TR4 <o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
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