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<DIV>Bill I think this discussion is about the diff seal, not the rear engine
seal. </DIV>
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<DIV style="font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=notakitcar@yahoo.com>bill
beecher</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, November 24, 2020 10:28 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=deruiterville@hotmail.com>Randy and Valerie
DeRuiter</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A title=triumphs@autox.team.net>triumphs@autox.team.net</A>
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [TR] rear seal</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
<DIV
style='FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; DISPLAY: inline'>Just
finished that job using the Viton seal from Joe Alexander and guidance from Kas
Kastner’s book. So far no leak at the rear, 🤞. Follow the steps,
you will succeed.
<DIV>Bill B</DIV>
<DIV>TS30800L</DIV>
<DIV><BR><BR>
<DIV dir=ltr>#dontkillgrandma</DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr><BR>On Nov 24, 2020, at 9:06 PM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter
<deruiterville@hotmail.com> wrote:<BR><BR></DIV>
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<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">Dave-</DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)"> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">I've
done this a few times, I think the hardest part of the job is getting the old
seal out. Pick your favorite method, but I've settled on using a tool I
bought from Harbor Freight a couple of years ago which has worked well as a seal
puller.</DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)"> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">Basic
steps:</DIV>
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style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)"> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">1)
Unbolt driveshaft</DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">2)
Remove cotter pin from pinion castle nut </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">3)
Hold flange (I bolt on a piece of angle iron to hold the flange steady, and
remove the castle nut.</DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">4)
Pull the old seal.</DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)"> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">The
attached picture shows what I use, the hook catches the edge of the seal and I
hit the puller with a hammer to jar the seal loose. </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)"> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">5)
Inspect the flange seal surface, and if its badly ridged consider putting on a
repair sleeve (99149 National, SKF or KWK99149 Timken)</DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">6)
Smear the new seal with something appropriate (I've used Permatex 2), and drive
the new seal back in using a large pipe or socket. </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">7
Install the flange and castle nut with new cotter pin. Since there is no
collapsible spacer to worry about, the flange just gets torqued back to factory
settings (I think the factory manual says 85-100 ftlbs )</DIV>
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style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)"> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">Randy
</DIV>
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style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)"> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)"> </DIV>
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<DIV id=divRplyFwdMsg dir=ltr><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt" color=#000000
face="Calibri, sans-serif"><B>From:</B> Triumphs
<triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of dave
<dave@ranteer.com><BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, November 24, 2020 7:57
PM<BR><B>To:</B> triumphs@autox.team.net
<triumphs@autox.team.net><BR><B>Subject:</B> [TR] rear seal</FONT>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
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<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in">Looking
for advice from people who have installed the rear seal on a TR3/4/4a
engine.</P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"> </P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in">Mine
leaks a lot and I’d like to at least slow it down.</P></DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV><thumbnail_6C3BD05F-B527-4528-8564-E036B3B50ACC.jpg></DIV><SPAN>**
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