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Dave-</div>
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I've done this a few times, I think the hardest part of the job is getting the old seal out. Pick your favorite method, but I've settled on using a tool I bought from Harbor Freight a couple of years ago which has worked well as a seal puller.</div>
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Basic steps:</div>
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1) Unbolt driveshaft</div>
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2) Remove cotter pin from pinion castle nut </div>
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3) Hold flange (I bolt on a piece of angle iron to hold the flange steady, and remove the castle nut.</div>
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4) Pull the old seal.</div>
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The attached picture shows what I use, the hook catches the edge of the seal and I hit the puller with a hammer to jar the seal loose. </div>
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5) Inspect the flange seal surface, and if its badly ridged consider putting on a repair sleeve (99149 National, SKF or KWK99149 Timken)</div>
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6) Smear the new seal with something appropriate (I've used Permatex 2), and drive the new seal back in using a large pipe or socket. </div>
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7 Install the flange and castle nut with new cotter pin. Since there is no collapsible spacer to worry about, the flange just gets torqued back to factory settings (I think the factory manual says 85-100 ftlbs )</div>
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Randy </div>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000" style="font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of dave <dave@ranteer.com><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, November 24, 2020 7:57 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] rear seal</font>
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Looking for advice from people who have installed the rear seal on a TR3/4/4a engine.</p>
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Mine leaks a lot and I’d like to at least slow it down.</p>
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