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<p>simplest puller ever</p>
<p><a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="https://www.amazon.com/K-D-Tools-3245-Seal-Puller/dp/B000CODE8Y/ref=asc_df_B000CODE8Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309813767497&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5936156728543363590&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007853&hvtargid=pla-628184084527&psc=1">https://www.amazon.com/K-D-Tools-3245-Seal-Puller/dp/B000CODE8Y/ref=asc_df_B000CODE8Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309813767497&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5936156728543363590&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007853&hvtargid=pla-628184084527&psc=1���
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<p>for this style (just a simple pic grab) have never found a seal
it wouldn't pull right out one handed<br>
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<p>ptegler<br>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/24/2020 10:05 PM, Randy and
Valerie DeRuiter wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:DM6PR19MB31303108B46AEE443E8EC652B9FA0@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com">
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Dave-</div>
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I've done this a few times, I think the hardest part of the job
is getting the old seal out.� Pick your favorite method, but
I've settled on using a tool I bought from Harbor Freight a
couple of years�ago which has worked well as a seal puller.</div>
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<br>
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Basic steps:</div>
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1) Unbolt driveshaft</div>
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2) Remove cotter pin from pinion castle nut�</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
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3) Hold flange (I bolt on a piece of angle iron to hold the
flange steady, and remove the castle nut.</div>
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4) Pull the old seal.</div>
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The attached picture shows what I use, the hook catches the edge
of the seal and I hit the puller with a hammer to jar the seal
loose.��</div>
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<br>
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font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
5) Inspect the flange seal surface, and if its badly ridged
consider putting on a repair sleeve (99149 National, SKF or
KWK99149 Timken)</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
6) Smear the new seal with something appropriate (I've used
Permatex 2), and drive the new seal back in using a large pipe
or socket.��</div>
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font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
7� Install the flange and castle nut with new cotter pin.� Since
there is no collapsible spacer to worry about, the flange just
gets torqued back to factory settings (I think the factory
manual says 85-100 ftlbs )</div>
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<br>
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Randy�</div>
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<br>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt"
face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b>
Triumphs <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net"><triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net></a> on behalf
of dave <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:dave@ranteer.com"><dave@ranteer.com></a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, November 24, 2020 7:57 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net">triumphs@autox.team.net</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"><triumphs@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] rear seal</font>
<div>�</div>
</div>
<div style="word-wrap:break-word" lang="EN-US">
<div class="x_WordSection1">
<p class="x_MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt;
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">
Looking for advice from people who have installed the rear
seal on a TR3/4/4a engine.</p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt;
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">
�</p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt;
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">
Mine leaks a lot and I�d like to at least slow it down.</p>
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<pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **
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</pre>
</blockquote>
<pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">--
Paul Tegler
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:ptegler@verizon.net">ptegler@verizon.net</a> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.teglerizer.com">www.teglerizer.com</a></pre>
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