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<div> <font size="3">Many industrial DVM's will work for this. The Fluke 70-series (I'm dating myself) have a capture feature that will capture the MIN,MAX and AVE value of a signal. you will have to leave it on for a while or at least let the stabilizer settle before starting the capture and leave it run for half a minute.</font></div>
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<div><font size="3">But if a bulb flashes the stabilizer is probably good. If the bulb stays on full time it isn't. Probably a bad internal ground.</font><br>
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<div style="clear:both"><font size="4">Dave </font><br>
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<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag@gmail.com><br>
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey@cs.com><br>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Fri, Aug 21, 2020 11:25 am<br>
Subject: Re: [TR] Voltage stabilizer question<br>
<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Thanks,
<div>That 30 sec. I mentioned was incorrect. It stays on for about 30 sec and then blinks. If anyone wants the TSB, it is attached. With this TSB it's comparing one reference to another known reference. <br clear="none">
<div>I did some experiments yesterday. Tying to measure 10 volts is not as straightforward with a digital meter. I think I need to create a voltage divider network and measure that way.</div>
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<div>From another forum post I found from Randall Yong and some other guy, you really don't want to drive more than 8 or 9 volts directly to a gauge. The needle goes off the top of the scale.</div>
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<div>I have some time with shelter in place and am more curious to get my gauges to read right. </div>
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<div>Sujit</div>
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<div class="yiv8288848762gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Fri, Aug 21, 2020 at 5:44 AM DAVID MASSEY <<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:dave1massey@cs.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:dave1massey@cs.com">dave1massey@cs.com</a>> wrote:<br clear="none"></div>
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<div> <font size="3">The most common failure mode is where the output is constant and the bulb stays lit all the time. This will give you high readings. If the output is zero your gauges will both read zero.</font><br clear="none">
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<div style="clear:both;"><font size="4">Dave </font><br clear="none">
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<div style="font-family:arial, helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black;">-----Original Message-----<br clear="none">
From: Sujit Roy <<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:triumphstag@gmail.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:triumphstag@gmail.com">triumphstag@gmail.com</a>><br clear="none">
To: Triumphs <<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net" target="_blank" href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net">triumphs@autox.team.net</a>><br clear="none">
Sent: Thu, Aug 20, 2020 4:04 pm<br clear="none">
Subject: [TR] Voltage stabilizer question<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
<div id="yiv8288848762gmail-m_2629207894487303917yiv6032968021">
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<div>It's often said, if your fuel gauge and temperature gauge are reading high, check your voltage stabilizer. </div>
<div>So, I have this Triumph service document from 1966 or near enough on how to test if a voltage stabilizer if OK. I know the output should be 10volts. The doc. also tests a method on how to check it with a 2.2w bulb. (The bulb should blink) </div>
<div>However, If something is wrong with it, what should I expect besides the output voltage being zero because it is dead?</div>
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<div>Thx in advance. Sujit</div>
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<div>Sujit Roy<br clear="none">
Cupertino, California</div>
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<div>Sujit Roy<br clear="none">Cupertino, California</div>
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