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<div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">First, I want to thank everyone who shared their experiences with the fuel line to pump input connection 'challenges'!</font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif"><br></font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">2nd, Again I want to thank Albert at TRF for sharing they now have a dependable supplier in Italy.</font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif"><br></font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">3rd- My thinking was that since the original curved steel pipe, make brass nut and compression fitting was all ' undamaged. That my sealing issue was because the pumps female threads were not properly manufactured, so the brass fitting & 'acorn fitting' just couldn't be properly 'compression-ed'. I tried to upload a pic, but it was 'Scrubbed'. </font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif"><br></font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">So let's put all this behind us.</font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif"><br></font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">I think it was Greg who stayed "You seem to be concerned about originality".</font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">Greg, in a way yes. I want my mod to electric pump not to be obviously 'Unauthentic' as Jaguar JCNA Concours judging guides express. </font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">I wanted to retain the original copper fuel line ( as opposed to just running a perfectly safe & functional new (hose) fuel line. </font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">So I removed the copper line and made a 90 deg bend down, just behind the water pump to thermostat 'Made in England ' coolant hose and down and back just under the original hydraulic brake line to meet the new electric pump and glass filter which meets the original tank to engine Bay steel fuel line . So I am mounting the electric pump right on the top of the Frame. </font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif"><br></font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">What will be/is seen, is the copper fuel line running up the left front side of the engine block, just in front of the oil dipstick, and behind the 'water tube's that runs back along the cylinder head / block joint line ( back & across to the heater valve). The fuel line now bends 90 deg forward & around in it's original location to the carburetor feed pipes T . </font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">Instead of the copper fuel line coming up in the back ( from the mechanical pump, and forward along the cylinder head / block joint, it just comes up at the front of the engine ahead of plug#1.</font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif"><br></font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">To me it made no sense to loop back extra fuel hose to keep the 'up' at the rear. Cleans up that area for easier access to the oil gauge line junction and the clutch hydraulic line junction down by the frame. I am blanking off the original fuel pump block opening, keeping the studs for the blanking plate and the clamp that holds the oil line to the gauge.</font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif"><br></font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">Now I have several vehicles with AC fuel pumps: my 36 Packard 120B 2 dt touring coupe ( 1 of 5 left of 4,000). It's a straight 8 and that fuel pump also incorporates a vacuum pump for the windscreen wipers ( no less).</font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">My 5 Dodges: 56 Coronet 270 Poly V8; 61 Lancer wagon, , 63 Dodge Dart GT convert, 65 a100 pickup ( all Slant 6s) & my 63 Chrysler Imperial 413 and my 78 Rockwell Commander 112TC all used dependable Mechanical pumps ( although the Aircraft has an electric primer & booster pump as a safety factor).</font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif"><br></font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">But I figured given the nightmare I went thru for several years with the bad threads, & to expedite future ease of exam & service, just put in an electric pump. I may one day get another mechanical pump, but for nowI made the decision to go electric, put the pump visible to me & accessible in the approximate locale of the original pump.</font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">That's my story. </font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif"><br></font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">I was very active on this list for many years, then was a lurker as my vehicular interests varied, but Understanding the need to keep this community 'in good health' I choosing to share more fre6on my Triumph projects.</font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">Currently helping a couple club member's son restore an early TR4 and another members two TR6s. They both have been IMHO 'ripped off' by greedy British repair shops, doing shoddy work IMHO, making unnecessary repairs and ignoring basic linkage security & carburator /vacuum lines leaks, maybe intentionally</font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">Sherman </font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif"><br></font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">-BTW, the 56 Dodge cross ram manifold runs a 2 barrel Stromberg carb. The 35-36 Packards used 2 brrl Stromberg & Carter carbs with different jetting. Sound familiar to the piston needle choices on our Stromberg Carbs. Not new Technology. One day I'll share some distributor design stories.</font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif"><br></font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif"><br></font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif"> </font></div><div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif"><br></font></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div id="composer_signature" dir="auto"><div style="font-size:85%;color:#575757" dir="auto">Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone</div></div><div dir="auto"><br></div></body></html>