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<div> <font size="3">Many, many, many years ago I mounted an electric pump on the side of the engine block using one of the mechanical pump mounting studs. It worked flawlessly for more than 20 years (still works). At some point I sourced an impact switch from a salvage yard and wired the pump thorough that just for safety purposes. <br>
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<div><font size="3">Recently I relocated that pump to the spare tyre well (I have a space-saver so there's lots of room) using two levels of isolation to reduce the noise. Still works great. I never had any issue with that pump pulling gas when mounted to the engine block.</font><br>
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<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: staffel <staffel@comcast.net><br>
To: EDWARD WOODS <fogbro1@comcast.net>; Greg Lemon <grglmn@gmail.com><br>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Tue, Aug 11, 2020 11:30 am<br>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Fuel Delivery Issue & Mod<br>
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<div>Hello Greg: I put the electric pump right on the top of the frame below where the original pump was, for ease of access. On some Brit cars. The elec pumps are in the trunk (Jaguars), under the frame by the rear wheel (Jensen GTs). Ever have to replace an SU pump along side the highway in a rainstorm. Those days are over for me.</div>
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<div>Hi Ed: GOOD COMMENT; In my case it was NOT the brass acorn. And to replace that acorn, due to the curvature of the original steel pipe, meant a total fabrication of the pipe, as replacing the acorn was impossible as the brass Male nut could not be removed.</div>
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<div>Thanks Gents! A modern electric pump, located where easily checked, wired to the distributor + and ground makes checking or replacing the pump an easy job in the future. My TR4 was my daily driver from 1969 thru the mid 1980s, from Oklahoma to upstate NY, in the Mid Atlantic & in New Mexico. Proper replacement parts, made in the UK or US were much more dependable then.</div>
<div>I am still running a Mallory dual point ignition distributor after poorly manufactured Lucas points frustrated me for months: cam too small, slot too small, hole in points where points 'sit on breaker plate's too small so points set wobbled - giving intermittent spark. </div>
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<div>Even the basic things one has to inspect for proper manufacturing these days.</div>
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<div>Looking forward to having my TR fully roadworthy again!</div>
<div>Sherman </div>
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<div style="font-size:85%;color:#575757;">Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone</div>
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<div>-------- Original message --------</div>
<div>From: EDWARD WOODS <fogbro1@comcast.net> </div>
<div>Date: 8/11/20 7:01 AM (GMT-05:00) </div>
<div>To: Greg Lemon <grglmn@gmail.com>, staffel <staffel@comcast.net> </div>
<div>Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net> </div>
<div>Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Fuel Delivery Issue & Mod </div>
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And isn't it the brass "acorn" that seals the connection at the pump, not the threads? ISTR that the original "acorn" is a bit longer than the replacements available which limits compression and can cause a leak. At one time there was someone making a longer "acorn" to solve this problem.
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On 08/10/2020 11:57 PM Greg Lemon <grglmn@gmail.com> wrote:
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Just a couple random thoughts here. One, I could not figure out from your message where exactly you ended up putting the electric pump. My understanding is most electric pumps like to push better than the like to pull, MG and Healey pumps are mounted close to the tank and low in back, that would be a good place for the new TR electric pump. You seem somewhat concerned about originality.
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Second, mechanical pump rebuild kits are readily available and not too hard to fit. There are lots of things I remember about rebuilding my TR ten years ago, rebuilding the pump is not one of them, so it must have been fairly easy to do and worked (and has been working fine for ten years).
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Greg Lemon
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On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 10:43 PM staffel <
<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:staffel@comcast.net" target="_blank" href="mailto:staffel@comcast.net">staffel@comcast.net</a>> wrote:
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<span style="font-family:sans-serif;">Several years ago on an evening club drive in the Catoctin Mts of Maryland my TR4 developed running/ hesitation issues. Then it got dark & started to rain. Could not drive the car steady over 45mph. Typical fuel flow clogging issue symptoms. Fortunately we made it into Fredericksburg and a Motel.</span>
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<span style="font-family:sans-serif;">Next morning, still raining, the issue was apparent: in the bottom of the Glass fuel bowl- a pile of 'rust dust'. Cleaned the bowl & nursed the car home 30 miles, but it kept dying. Fortunately a Jag club friend came by and got his trailer & towed me home.</span>
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<span style="font-family:sans-serif;">Further examination determined sediment also in the CD carbs fuel bowls. So much for the fuel pump 'screen' being 'effective'.</span>
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<span style="font-family:sans-serif;">Also examination of the fuel pump (original) revealed a weak diaphragm, so while working on the carbs, ordered a new pump from TRF. </span>
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<span style="font-family:sans-serif;">A few months later got everything back together. The engine started right up & ran fine. But no matter how I tried to seal the threads on fuel feed of the original curved pipe inlet 'nut' to the new pump ( pipe dope, teflon tape, rtv) the leak wouldn't stop. </span>
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<span style="font-family:sans-serif;">Magnifying glass exam of the original Triumph Male pipe 'nut' and the female threaded bore of the new TRF pump revealed a slight thread mismatch - Chinese machining. It was not Metric either. </span>
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<span style="font-family:sans-serif;">So after talking with TRF, I decided to forget the mechanical pump and install an electric pump, ala Jaguar V12s & Jensen Healey / GTs (Lotus 907).</span>
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<span style="font-family:sans-serif;">Well, I installed a couple of different new electric pumps adjacent to the mechanical pump.</span>
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<span style="font-family:sans-serif;">They would never 'self prime'. </span>
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<span style="font-family:sans-serif;">Now, returning to the project. I removed the mechanical pump, & DRAINED the tank of the old fuel. It seems that the gravity feed when the tank is less than 1/2 full requires the elec pump to be very low ( like the original input height of the original pump, to receive fuel. </span>
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<span style="font-family:sans-serif;">So I am redetailing the frame (cleaning & new paint) and securing the new fuel line, inline glass Filter & elec pump right on the frame. This allows the steel feed line from the tank ( after Dremel Tool cutting) to match the new location of the electric pump.</span>
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<span style="font-family:sans-serif;">Next will be modifying a new copper fuel line ( semblance of originality) to meet the elec pump feed right behind & adjacent to the Water pump. The original copper pipe mated to the back of the mechanical pump , ran up and forward along the engine at the cylinder head level to the front of the engine & then across to the carburetor feeds.</span>
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<span style="font-family:sans-serif;">Finally hope this resolves the fuel delivery issue.</span>
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<span style="font-family:sans-serif;">I wanted to share a warning about the TRF pump supplier manufacturing glitch. So others can not waste years getting their TRs back to Roadworthy status.</span>
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<span style="font-family:sans-serif;">Obviously not going to drive a car with weeping fuel near a hot engine. At least on the TR4 & 6s, ( unlike Jaguar 6s ( have 2) or V12s ( have 3), Jensen GTs ( have 3) ; the exhaust Manifolds are on the opposite side of the engine. </span>
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Sherman D Taffel
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( per VTR the last known TR4 produced & shipped to USA)
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