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<p>Thanks everyone,<br>
</p>
<p>I will do some more investigating. I should mention that the
lights just kind of flicker so it is not real obvious.<br>
</p>
<p>Thanks again,<br>
Roger <br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/13/2019 9:20 AM, David
Friedlander wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAJ1eQwgMm+SH1DH6mjmK-k7YFsc3SX1fCgNuR+Ntsg30OicWaA@mail.gmail.com">
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<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:large;color:#000099">Doesn't Moss sell
tail light bulb holders with grounding tabs?</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:large;color:#000099"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:large;color:#000099"><a
href="https://mossmotors.com/bulb-holder-turn-reverse"
moz-do-not-send="true">https://mossmotors.com/bulb-holder-turn-reverse</a> </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:large;color:#000099"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:large;color:#000099">Dave <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:large;color:#000099"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:large;color:#000099">
<div><img src="cid:part2.64AE6CBB.1B0FE895@rmi.net"
alt="image.png" class="" width="481" height="231"><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Nov 13, 2019 at 12:15
AM Brian Kemp <<a href="mailto:bk13@earthlink.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">bk13@earthlink.net</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> I seem to remember once upon a time,
somebody made a light socket with a ground wire or a ground
tab. I looked a few months ago for my GT6, but couldn't
find it at the usual vendors. I imagine you could add a
ground wire, but some of my sockets are pretty bad, so I was
looking for new ones that already had the wire.<br>
<br>
On my TR6, I did have a socket that didn't conduct well to
ground. The problem was the connection between the metal
base and the metal fingers. I just hit the area with a wire
brush in the Dremel then soldered the two bits together and
it fixed that problem.<br>
<br>
Brian<br>
<br>
<div>On 11/12/2019 2:38 PM, Roger Elliott wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<p>I decided to give up on the issue. <br>
</p>
<p>There did not seem to be much of a voltage drop across
the battery - about .05 volts as near as I could make
out. It's possible that either the meter or myself were
not quick enough to read accurately.<br>
</p>
<p>As far as I could tell there is not a ground terminal
on the sockets. There was about .009 volts between the
lamp housing and the battery. I did run additional
wires from the lamp housing to a ground (to the tank
mounting bolts).<br>
</p>
<p>The brake/tail lights still varied with the turn
signals, in opposition, got brighter when the turn
signals were off.<br>
</p>
<p>Tested the lights with regular brake lights instead of
LEDs. I noticed the brake/tail lights still varied with
the turn signals. This is when I decided to give up and
just live with it.<br>
</p>
<p>Oh, the third brake light that I have wired in - power
from the brake lights and grounded to the body flash
when ever the brake lights and turn signals are on (like
the brake/tail lights in opposition.<br>
<br>
</p>
<p>Thanks for your help.<br>
Roger<br>
</p>
<div>On 11/3/2019 4:37 PM, Randall wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Yes, that’s the idea. You want
all the lights on (including turn signals) during
this test.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">What you’re looking at is how
much voltage drop there is through the ground path.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">-- Randall</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<div
style="border-right:none;border-bottom:none;border-left:none;border-top:1pt
solid rgb(225,225,225);padding:3pt 0in 0in">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="border:none;padding:0in"><b>From:
</b><a href="mailto:elliottr@rmi.net"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">Roger
Elliott</a><br>
<b>Sent: </b>Sunday, November 3, 2019 1:26 PM<br>
<b>To: </b><a
href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">triumphs@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject: </b>Re: [TR] TR250 LED tail light
problem</p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p><span style="font-size:10pt">HI Randall,</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size:10pt">Thanks for the
information and the tests.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size:10pt">I just want to check
something on the tests since my electrical trouble
shooting ability is very limited.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size:10pt">This section is also
done with the lights on, right?: </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">To check for grounding issues, I
suggest running a wire to the negative battery
terminal or negative starter cable, so you can
connect the ground lead of your DMM to that. Then
you can probe at the rear lights, to see how well
they are actually grounded. 0.2 volt is probably
acceptable, anything more than that represents a
problem that could be fixed.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> <br>
Thanks,<br>
Roger</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On 11/2/19 4:07 PM, Randall
wrote:</p>
</div>
<blockquote style="margin-top:5pt;margin-bottom:5pt">
<p class="MsoNormal">There may not be a good
solution, Roger. The incandescent turn signals
draw a fair amount of current, which is likely
more than the stock alternator can deliver (along
with tail lights and so on) at idle. So it may be
that the battery voltage is dropping from 13+
volts (alternator supplying all power to car) to
12.6 volts (battery supplying some of the power)
and the LEDs you’re using are sensitive enough to
show the difference in voltage.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">To check, connect a good
voltmeter or DMM to the battery, then watch what
it does when the tail lights and flashers are both
on. If I’m right, you’ll see the battery voltage
sag in time with the turn signals. The only fix
would be to convert to a more modern alternator,
that can keep up with the lights at idle. (I’m
not certain, but I think there is a Lester unit
that would look and fit the same as the stock
Lucas but give more current across the board.
Check with the Jaguar folks.)</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Another fix might be LEDs that
use an active current source (so are much less
sensitive to supply voltage), but I have no idea
where to buy such things. I made my own using a
simple 2-transistor active current limiter.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">To check for grounding issues,
I suggest running a wire to the negative battery
terminal or negative starter cable, so you can
connect the ground lead of your DMM to that. Then
you can probe at the rear lights, to see how well
they are actually grounded. 0.2 volt is probably
acceptable, anything more than that represents a
problem that could be fixed.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I’m not sure how the TR250 tail
lights are wired. On my TR3, all the rear lamps
ground only through their mounting screws, which
go into clip nuts fastened to the sheet metal.
Very insecure, especially if the sheet metal has a
fresh coat of paint. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">However, each lamp has a
terminal inside the housing for a ground wire.
So, I made up a ground wire that daisy-chains
across all the rear lamp holders, then leads
around the trunk to one of the fuel tank mounting
bolts.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">-- Randall</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<div
style="border-right:none;border-bottom:none;border-left:none;border-top:1pt
solid rgb(225,225,225);padding:3pt 0in 0in">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b>From: </b><a
href="mailto:elliottr@rmi.net" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">Roger Elliott</a><br>
<b>Sent: </b>Friday, November 1, 2019 12:50 PM<br>
<b>To: </b><a
href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">triumphs@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject: </b>[TR] TR250 LED tail light
problem</p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Here's the problem. When the
tail lights are on and I use the flasher, </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">the tail/brake lights flicker
with the flasher. They don't go on and </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">off but the get brighter and
dimmer. When the third brake light is </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">hooked up it does the same
thing.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
</blockquote>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="margin-right:0.5in;margin-bottom:5pt;margin-left:0.5in"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
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