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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link="#0563C1" vlink="#954F72"><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal>I’ll just add that it is an art. You can’t just shim one section and expect it not to affect other parts of the body. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal><b>From:</b> Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> <b>On Behalf Of </b>Tomislav Marincic<br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, October 6, 2019 3:33 PM<br><b>To:</b> L1j1s@aol.com; triumphs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] Pain job for 1972 TR6<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Can’t advise about the paint without seeing the car and knowing the scope of the work. However, I will say that people who do work on “modern” cars are completely unprepared for TR6 door gaps. These cars did not fit all that well when they were brand new. I would never allow my frame to be “aligned” with the body tub.<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>When I did my body-off restoration, my painter shimmed the body too much in back in order to get good gaps on the doors. (The frame was straightened and powdercoated.) I didn’t notice until it was time to install the rear bumper, and I had to shim that in order to clear the holes in the body.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>My advice is to make sure the frame needs straightening without reference to how the body looks, then do the best you can with the gaps. That’s how they did it in Coventry.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>Best, Tom<o:p></o:p></p></div></div></body></html>