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</head><body><p style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">...but, for the sake of discussion. <br></p><p style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);"><br></p><p style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">I've swapped out the electronic ignition for the old points set up. First time on start up, the engine overheated. On checking timing with a timing light, I've found the timing to be way too retarded. I advanced the vacuum knob as far as it would go without hitting my mark. I've since used the book process for static timing, pivoting the dizzy at TDC to where the points just begin to open. I've painted the TDC hole on the pulley (which is accurate), and painted 1/4 inch advance, then adjusted the vacuum advance to 4 degrees advance. I haven't checked if the heating persists. I kinda think this will solve the problem, but I must confess, as ever, I was an English major and every time I think I've solved something, ...well, I can only be grateful I am a humble man. ...Or at least I would be if I weren't so awesome.<br></p><p style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);"><br></p><p style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Question is, though, what the heck? Swapping electronic ignition for points can cause such a huge timing differential? ...Or am I all-muddled?????<br></p><p style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);"><br></p><p style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Terry Smith, '59 TR3A<br></p><p style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">New Hampshire <br></p></body></html>