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<p style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0">Oil soaked rags can be good rust preventers. My next door neighbor is an old, very old, retired farmer who shared that on hot summer days, around 90F, liquid roof tar flowed like paint and he used it to undercoat his
entire 1928 Model A. It never rusted. Way better than TST or other popular undercoatings. Even when they power wash the frame first. That only gets the crud off, not the oxidation that must be wiped off, or discoloration that might be surface rust, both of
which prevent long term adhesion when no fully removed. On one brand new vehicle frame I had commercially coated with TST before the vehicle was driven (it was delivered to TST) and adhered to their yearly inspections and re-coatings, the TST coating shrank
and developed very thin cracks that admitted moisture.The frame rusted out behind the TST but not where large pieces of it had flaked off. That full frame actually broke in half above the rear wheel arch, right where the undercoating was heaviest. </p>
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<p style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0">Some people favor commercial undercoatings. We no longer do. What does seems to work is a thorough cleaning and application of pickup truck bed liner paint and regular inspections every time the oil is changed. </p>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size:11pt" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, March 21, 2019 10:40 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> list Triumph<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] triumph tr3 rescue update</font>
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<div dir="auto"><span style="font-family:sans-serif">Previously on the tr3 channel.... I picked up two tr3 basket cases with the aid of several Triumph Club of the Carolinas members/friends last October. The 3s were a bit worse off than expected. One car, a
roller..., did not roll and engine was siezed.</span></div>
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<div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">After months of soaking and constant pressure the engine spins free and makes good compression, rear brake drums removed with aid of air impact, engine/od trans pulled, degreased. power washed and engine delivered to
Dr Morro. Rear fenders removed. heated all cage nuts to red hot and pb blaster after cooled. believe it or not almost all hex head bolts came out with minimal effort. Significant rust everywhere, but not as bad as tr3s in my previous life. We can do this!
Passenger floor pan mostly removed. Rest of interior removed. Brake lines removed intact to use as models for replacements. Played with needle scaler from harbor freight. works well.</font></div>
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<div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">Fast forward to today.</font></div>
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<div dir="auto"><font face="sans-serif">First w</font><span style="font-family:sans-serif">eek at new job, so not a ton of progress.</span></div>
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<div dir="auto" style="font-family:sans-serif">Bosch mini split is installed and works a champ! Shop will be cool this summer.</div>
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<div dir="auto" style="font-family:sans-serif">Tools cleaned and put away.</div>
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<div dir="auto" style="font-family:sans-serif">Passengers side rocker opened up.</div>
<div dir="auto" style="font-family:sans-serif">Findings...Bob commented on what looked like oil soaked rags stuffed in the rusted rocker.... Upon further destruction, it revealed cardboard, fiberglass, and CONCRETE!</div>
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<div dir="auto" style="font-family:sans-serif">Apparently, the DPO found concrete as an appropriate base filler material.</div>
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<div dir="auto" style="font-family:sans-serif">Good news is the inner rocker looks good. Oil soaked rags must've helped.</div>
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<div dir="auto" style="font-family:sans-serif">Never seen concrete in a TR....</div>
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<div dir="auto" style="font-family:sans-serif">Bought a pressure pot sand blaster and modified it based on my previous work with metal improvement company. Can't wait to try it out.</div>
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