<div dir="ltr"><div dir="auto">HI Randall and Frank,</div><div>It for the Stag I have 2 aircraft bolts with 3/8 diameter plain shank that I can use.These are a very tight fit. LD Parts has a specialty machined bolt that fits one of the lower holes. Its 24 pounds. Not cheap.</div><div><br></div><div>I think I will stick with the two ones I have.</div><div><br></div><div>Frank. Rob Sport in UK makes the longer snout. They take your short snout in exchange. I have the longer snout. I'm working on a second Stag. It will be manual with J type OD. </div><div><br></div><div>Sujit</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr">On Fri, Feb 15, 2019, 2:06 PM Frank Magnusson <<a href="mailto:fmags@cox.net" target="_blank">fmags@cox.net</a> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Hi Sujit,<br>
<br>
Very common problem on the Stag, which does not have these dowels (and<br>
should). On the TR6 (and GT6) IIRC, there are just several dowels on the<br>
top and not the bottom. I never had an issue with these dowels on my TR6 or<br>
GT6 and never needed to replace them, having had several gearboxes in and<br>
out. So, I'm assuming you're talking for the Stag.<br>
<br>
For the Stag, I never had any issues with my clutch until I decided to<br>
change it, and then had all kinds of the classic Stag issues of sticking<br>
clutch and juddering. Compounded by the NOS pressure plate I installed was<br>
defective....<br>
<br>
For the dowels, I wasn't able to find any of these dowels at the time. I<br>
assume I tried Rimmers and Paddocks at the time, but it's probably been 10<br>
years. The bolt holes on the bell housing and block on mine were oval<br>
shaped from wear, so I took a reamer and got them round again and up to a<br>
standard size of the reamer, then went to an aerospace machine shop and had<br>
them make me some dowel pins of the right size. I believe he started with<br>
dowel pins that they use for jigs and other hard tooling. That along with a<br>
good heavy duty pressure plate and clutch from Tony Hart in the UK and the<br>
longer "snout" on the gearbox fixed all of my issues.<br>
<br>
There is a good article on the Buckeye Triumphs site on the clutch judder<br>
issue and snout; apparently it's a TR6 problem as well, although I never had<br>
it on mine. Worse on the Stag due to the heavier clutch I think.<br>
<br>
My Mk I Stag had the shorter snout. I believe the factory changed to a<br>
longer snout in around '76. I got a good used longer snout from Martin<br>
Dimmock in the UK. Not sure if the usual suppliers sell these now or not,<br>
but upgrading to the longer snout would be a good idea if you're in there.<br>
That's what the factory did.<br>
<br>
If your top bolt holes on your bellhousing and block are oval like mine<br>
were, standard dowels may not work. Worth a try if they're not too bad. I<br>
chose to have some custom made; not sure if std dowel pins would have worked<br>
or not, as I couldn't locate any.<br>
<br>
What issues are you having with yours?<br>
<br>
<br>
Frank<br>
<br>
<Im aware the TR6 gearbox uses two special machined bolts to align the box<br>
to engine plate.<br>
They are positioned about 11pm and 2pm on the bell housing.<br>
<br>
Someone on that forum used one at the bottom as well (slightly smaller<br>
diameter bolt.)<br>
<br>
Has anyone else tried this and if so, where did you get the bolt?<br>
The Stag and TR6 bell housing are similar.<br>
<br>
Does anyone know if the Dolomite Sprint used the same bell housing as the<br>
TR6?><br>
<br>
<br>
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