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<p>If your block has a lip...it's a different head gasket than with
a flat block deck.</p>
<p>The recessed block head gasket actually has thicker rings
embedded around the cyl bore, overhanging that recess. GT6 did
the same thing on later models. One gasket should have a tang that
sticks out of the back of the head identifying the type (rings or
not)</p>
<p>If you lay a straight edge on top the block,and can see light
under the ruler when lit from behind....seriously consider a skim.
Your cyls are less likely to blow, but the water ways and oil
galleries can still be an issue if not VERY flat (and the head
VERY flat)</p>
<p>ptegler<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/12/2018 5:09 PM, David P wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:a9218ae8-da18-3381-124b-86530e80f9f3@porterscustom.com">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<p>While on this general subject... the 250 and TR6 blocks have a
ledge machined into the top couple mm of each bore, presumably
to allow a bit of the head gasket to seep into this space. Does
anyone have a better explanation?</p>
<p>Has anyone had this ledge removed by decking the block and if
so were there piston to head clearance issues?</p>
<p>DaveP<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/12/2018 10:38 AM, TERRY SMITH
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:2052966149.18781.1544636315957@connect.xfinity.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
charset=UTF-8">
<meta charset="UTF-8">
<p style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial,
sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">I'm probably in the
minority here, but I measure the effort/expense of doing it
100% right, against the effort/expense of fixing it if it
doesn't work. If the block is already out, seems little
effort and minimal money to have it skimmed at a machine shop,
with the added advantage that they'll boil the block, thus
cleaning any years' worth of crud out of the water channels,
and check the block for cracks. Am I glad I did that? Yes.
When I took in the block that was original to the car for
checking, the machinist found cracks where the liners sit.
I'd have had to pull the engine and start over, assuming I
hadn't ruined it altogether already. Instead, I sourced a
free block from a List member in CT, and was golden.<br>
</p>
<p style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial,
sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);"><br>
</p>
<p style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial,
sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Your experience may vary
and all that.<br>
</p>
<p style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial,
sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);"><br>
</p>
<p style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial,
sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Terry Smith, '59 Tr3A TS
58667<br>
</p>
<p style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial,
sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">New Hampshire<br>
</p>
<p style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial,
sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);"><br>
</p>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="ox-b488e11791-gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr">On Mon, Dec 10, 2018, 12:58 PM Sujit Roy
< <a href="mailto:triumphstag@gmail.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">triumphstag@gmail.com</a>
wrote: <br>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div>I've been at the block face of a Stag's
engine with a Roloc. (The block has been sitting
in my garage for may years.)</div>
<div>I have noticed around the water channels some
imperfections on the surface. The rest of the
block face is relatively OK.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Can I get away with not having the block face
decked?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Sujit</div>
-- <br>
<div dir="ltr"
class="ox-b488e11791-m_-2928778390541956300gmail_signature">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>Sujit Roy <br>
Cupertino, California</div>
<div><br>
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