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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link="#0563C1" vlink="#954F72"><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal>Hi Bob,<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>I don’t think you’re being paranoid at all. Better safe than sorry.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>A 4 wheeled engine stand is better than a 3 wheel one due to tip over concerns. Can you do it with a 3 wheeled stand? Sure, but if you haven’t bought a stand yet, why take the risk of tip over? Just not worth it.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Same with bolt grades. I would definitely use grade 5 or grade 8 bolts. I’m sure someone will say a grade 2 bolt will work but again why take the risk. The cost difference between a grade 2 and a grade 5 or 8 is insignificant. But the safety margin goes up substantially with the higher quality bolts.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Same with working around an engine being pulled. You wouldn’t want to be directly underneath the engine obviously, but I’ve seen guys do it. Anything slips or breaks and it falls on you and you’re permanently disabled or dead. Same with working under a car with just a floor jack and no jackstands. You see it all the time and read about fatalities when the 10 cent seal in the jack fails and it all comes crashing down on top of them.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>No substitute for safety.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>My 2 cents,<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Frank<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>’72 Stag<o:p></o:p></p></div><div id="DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br />
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