<div dir="ltr">I realize the original question was about a TR6 but since broad statements may be interpreted as applying to all ZS 175s - I'll add that the aforementioned screws on original TR4 carbs that I have seen were slotted Fillister Head screws.<div><br></div><div>Geo</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr">On Wed, Oct 3, 2018 at 1:04 AM Jack McGahey <<a href="mailto:McGaheyRx@aol.com">McGaheyRx@aol.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="auto">The screws holding the top cover on the carb are M5 0.8 - I measure 12.4 mm long - M5 0.8 x 12 would work. Having said that, I would (have and will) order the correct ones. A generic replacement will probably have a Phillips head and will be harder to get out, without damaging the screw head, than Pozidrive on the correct screws. <div>The correct screws are unthreaded at the very top where the lock washer sits - they come with the lock washer in place and that lock washer does not easily come off.</div><div>The fitted washer and the pozidrive head are big advantages IMHO. I’ll always buy the correct ones.</div><div><br></div><div>Cheers,</div><div>Jack Mc<br><br><div id="m_-5078625105429044490AppleMailSignature">Sent from my iPad</div><div><br>On Oct 1, 2018, at 1:25 PM, Creig Houghtaling <<a href="mailto:creig555@live.com" target="_blank">creig555@live.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
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David,</div>
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See if a #10 or #8 machine thread works. It is one of these, but I don't remember which. I always buy new bolts and lock washers from the hardware store for carb top covers. You can buy stainless. And it doesn't cost as much.</div>
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My friend had metric size bolts holding his carb tops on his TR8. I suspect that was because a previous owner put them in because they were close in size and he just forced them in because they were into aluminum.</div>
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What are you referring to for damper 0-rings? If you are referring to the tiny one at the bottom of the dashpot that holds the dashpot oil around the metering needle, then yes that is a standard size o-ring that you can buy. The o-ring around the fuel reservoir
plug is standard and can be bought too.</div>
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Creig</div>
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<div id="m_-5078625105429044490divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font color="#000000" face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Triumphs <<a href="mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> on behalf of <a href="mailto:davgil@aol.com" target="_blank">davgil@aol.com</a> <<a href="mailto:davgil@aol.com" target="_blank">davgil@aol.com</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, October 1, 2018 8:44 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net" target="_blank">triumphs@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] ZS 175 carbs</font>
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<div><font size="2">I worked on the carbs on my 1976 TR6 this weekend, one of the needle adjustments screws moved and I was able to lean the carb I needed for some improvement. A couple of questions, does anyone know the specs on the screws holding the top
cover to the body of the carb? Someone (not me - honest) buggered them up and I had to cut a slot on one to back it out. I would like to just replace them all. Moss has them at $1.89 apiece but that seems a bit much. I had a couple of screws in my loose
screw bin that looked correct but did not seem to fully thread into the carb body and I didn't want to force them and ruin the threads. Also, if the damper o-rings are a standard size that I can pick up at a local FLAPS instead of ordering them, i would appreciate
knowing the specs on those as well. <br>
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<div><font size="2">Thanks</font></div>
<div><font size="2">David Gill</font></div>
<div><font size="2">1976 TR6</font><br>
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