<html><body><div>This is the flywheel I bought for my TR3A. </div><div><a href="https://www.bpnorthwest.com/alloy-light-flywheel-tr2-tr3-tr4-tr4a.html">https://www.bpnorthwest.com/alloy-light-flywheel-tr2-tr3-tr4-tr4a.html</a></div><div>I've had no issues killing the car when starting in 1st gear, it's still very forgiving. And yes, the engine spins up nice and quick powered with 87.5 big bore kit.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus="1"></div><div class="x-apple-signature">Rye<br>PH: 530-FIND-RYE</div><div><br>On Sep 11, 2018, at 05:23 AM, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:<br><br></div><div><blockquote type="cite"><div class="msg-quote"><div class="_stretch"><span class="body-text-content"><blockquote type="cite" class="quoted-plain-text">do they make a lighter flywheel? What about Aluminum?</blockquote><br>Fidanza offers an alloy flywheel (with a replaceable steel insert for the<br>friction surface). <br><br>I've been running one for perhaps 15 years now; and I like the overall<br>effect. Makes the car much more nimble at low speeds (mostly in 1st gear).<br><br>However, it did have a very definite effect (for me) on launching the car<br>(initial acceleration from a standstill); behind two different engines. Not<br>hard to cope with, but even after all these years I still have to think<br>about it to avoid killing the engine. And I still occasionally do kill it,<br>usually when I'm just puttering around and thinking about something else.<br><br>Also, it is deliberately a very tight fit on the end of the crankshaft. You<br>can use the bolts to pull it into place (tightening each bolt a fraction of<br>a turn at a time, in a criss-cross pattern), but I had to heat the flywheel<br>(with a propane torch) to get it off.<br><br>Joe A. had some lightweight steel flywheels made, but I think he sold them<br>all and has no plans to make more.<br><br>There are instructions in the "Competition Preparation" manual for how to<br>lighten a stock flywheel. Any decent machine shop should be able to do the<br>work (but I assume will insist you sign a waiver so they can't be<br>responsible if the resulting unit breaks in operation).<br><br>IIRC, the post-50K flywheel is somewhat lighter than the earlier one. I<br>don't know how the TR4A flywheel compares to either of the early ones, but<br>it might be slightly lighter still. The 4A clutch is lighter (I'm also<br>using a 4A clutch).<br><br>It's worth noting, perhaps, that weight distribution is important too; what<br>we really want to minimize is rotational inertia. So weight near the rim<br>has much more effect than weight near the center.<br><br>You also might want to think about what happens if, for example, you miss a<br>shift and the flywheel breaks from centrifugal force. Serious racers<br>install extra shielding to (hopefully) protect them if the worst happens.<br><br>-- Randall <br><br>** <a href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net" data-mce-href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **<br><br>Donate: <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" data-mce-href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" data-mce-href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a> <a href="http://www.team.net/archive" data-mce-href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel@mac.com" data-mce-href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel@mac.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel@mac.com</a><br></span></div></div></blockquote></div></body></html>