<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto">Yes, but as the head and studs go through heat cycles they expand/contract/stretch and don’t necessarily settle back exactly as they started when you cranked 105ftlbs to begin with.  Re-torquing is always advised.  <div><br></div><div>Bill B<br><br><div id="AppleMailSignature"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Sent from my Handspring Treo</span></div><div><br>On Jul 31, 2018, at 7:53 PM, David P <<a href="mailto:frogeye@porterscustom.com">frogeye@porterscustom.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><div>
  
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    <p>this makes no sense. To get it hot it has to run, but one
      wouldn't run it without it being torqued down especially with wet
      liners. So cold torque the head and use new studs and nuts too.
      daveP<br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/31/2018 12:26 PM, Tony Drews
      wrote:<br>
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      <p>Retorque hot.</p>
      <p>A rule I thumb I was recently told: Iron head = retorque hot,
        Aluminum head = retorque cold.</p>
      <p>Cheers, Tony Drews<br>
      </p>
      <br>
      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/31/2018 10:51 AM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:asg123@centurylink.net" moz-do-not-send="true">asg123@centurylink.net</a>
        wrote:<br>
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          <div>Recently replace the exhaust valves on my car.  New
            German made head gasket. Running well, very pleased.  Wonder
            what the consensus is it better </div>
          <div>to re torque when engine is cool or hot?  As always
            thanks to all for the help I have received keeping this car
            going over the years.  Arnold S Gilmour<br data-mce-bogus="1">
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    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">-- 
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