<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div>Great detail. Very much appreciated, Tony. <br><br><div><font color="#000000"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Dean Mericas<br>Austin, TX<br>1965 TR4 / 1963 Jaguar Mk2 (for sale!) / 1974 Alfa Romeo 2000 GTV / 1976</span></font></div><div><font color="#000000"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Alfa Romeo Giulia Nuova Super 2000</span></font></div><br></div><div><br>On Jun 18, 2018, at 7:54 PM, Tony Drews <<a href="mailto:tony@tonydrews.com">tony@tonydrews.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
<p>Speedi sleeve won't work as there's a flange on the TR-4 crank
preventing installation.</p>
<p>The new seals have a bit of a shorter spring so provide a bit
more tension. You can also very carefully trim a very slight
amount off of one end of the split portion. However, I don't
think that's necessary unless the crank is smaller OD than
2.500". Drilling a couple of drain holes in the rear main helps
too. On my most recent engine build (I do one a year in the race
car), the rear main is not leaking significantly and I didn't trim
the seal but did ensure the spring was 8" long. There's some
discussion of this on my engine building tips page here (see #14
under Block and #1, 4 and 5 under Crank):</p>
<p><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.tonydrews.com/uncle_jacks_engine_building_tips.htm">http://www.tonydrews.com/uncle_jacks_engine_building_tips.htm</a> <br>
</p>
<p>Salient points are these:</p>
<p><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Tahoma, Helvetica,
Arial, sans-serif; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2;
text-align: left; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none;
white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: rgb(255, 255,
255); text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color:
initial; display: inline !important; float: none;">Tony note:
related to the lip seal tips on the crankshaft - if you drill
two 3/8" or 10mm holes in the rear main cap parallel to the
existing oil drain hole, the oil buildup between the rear main
bearing and the rear main seal will be lessened and you'll have
less chance of pushing oil out of the rear main seal.</span></p>
<p><br>
<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Tahoma, Helvetica,
Arial, sans-serif; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2;
text-align: left; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none;
white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: rgb(255, 255,
255); text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color:
initial; display: inline !important; float: none;"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Tahoma, Helvetica,
Arial, sans-serif; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2;
text-align: left; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none;
white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: rgb(255,
255, 255); text-decoration-style: initial;
text-decoration-color: initial; display: inline !important;
float: none;">If you are going to install the aftermarket rear
seal, have the seal surface of the crank turned to 2.525 –
whatever the current instructions may say. These seals are
leaky and they need all the help they can get. The lip tension
is too low. Therefore, measure the length of the spring and
alter it to be exactly 8” long.</span></span></p>
<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Tahoma, Helvetica,
Arial, sans-serif; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
left; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal;
widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;
background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-decoration-style:
initial; text-decoration-color: initial; display: inline
!important; float: none;">Put a very small amount of RTV along one
edge of the seal groove in the aluminum housing. Also put a very
light coat of liquid gasket sealer on the surfaces against which
the seal housing will go.<br>
</span><br>
<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Tahoma, Helvetica,
Arial, sans-serif; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
left; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal;
widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;
background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-decoration-style:
initial; text-decoration-color: initial; display: inline
!important; float: none;"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);
font-family: Tahoma, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size:
medium; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal;
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing:
normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2;
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;
background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-decoration-style:
initial; text-decoration-color: initial; display: inline
!important; float: none;">Install the seal on the crank. Arrange
the seal so the split will be on the upside / top after the
engine is right side up.<br>
<br>
</span></span>Regards, Tony Drews<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/18/2018 6:56 PM, Paul Tegler
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:dad83232-d096-3a5a-4582-f16ed8619b91@verizon.net">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
<p>...couldn't you simply install a 'Speedi-Sleeve' ? (need to
hunt down the proper size of course)<br>
</p>
<p><a moz-do-not-send="true" href="https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-ab&biw=1344&bih=867&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=r0QoW77-C8WK5wLep63ACg&q=speedi-sleeve&oq=speedi-sleeve&gs_l=img.3..0j0i30k1l3j0i24k1l5.185356.188186.0.188574.13.13.0.0.0.0.98.1012.13.13.0....0...1c.1.64.img..0.13.1001...0i67k1j0i8i30k1.0.rlKHRLHMiao">https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-ab&biw=1344&bih=867&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=r0QoW77-C8WK5wLep63ACg&q=speedi-sleeve&oq=speedi-sleeve&gs_l=img.3..0j0i30k1l3j0i24k1l5.185356.188186.0.188574.13.13.0.0.0.0.98.1012.13.13.0....0...1c.1.64.img..0.13.1001...0i67k1j0i8i30k1.0.rlKHRLHMiao</a></p>
<p>I've had one on a GT6 crank for over 10 years and 20K miles now
without a single drop. <br>
</p>
<p>Once installed I polished the surface to a mirror finish to
assist longevity of the normal rubber lip seal</p>
<p>ptegler<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/18/2018 6:15 PM, Dean Mericas
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:ae47fd9a-b738-4946-e3f3-fe22a9a8d757@austin.rr.com">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
charset=utf-8">
I had the misfortune of installing one of the lip-type seals
that Randall recommends against in my TR4 back in the late
1990s. I got the kit from either Moss or British Frame &
Engine (Sp?) and it required machining the scroll off. It never
worked completely, and seems to be getting worse with age. I'm
planning to pull and reseal the engine sometime soon and am
wondering if there's anything that can be done to reduce the
leakage with an alternative seal or something other than
obtaining a new crankshaft?<br>
<br>
Thanks.<br>
<br>
Dean Mericas<br>
Austin, TX<br>
1965 TR4 / 1963 Jaguar Mk2 (for sale!) / 1974 Alfa Romeo 2000
GTV / 1976 Alfa Romeo Giulia Nuova Super 2000<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/18/2018 1:00 PM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:triumphs-request@autox.team.net" moz-do-not-send="true">triumphs-request@autox.team.net</a>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:mailman.9.1529344803.30320.triumphs@autox.team.net">
<pre wrap="">------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2018 21:13:47 -0700
From: "Randall" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com" moz-do-not-send="true"><TR3driver@ca.rr.com></a>
To: "'Robin Watson'" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:robinwmgb@gmail.com" moz-do-not-send="true"><robinwmgb@gmail.com></a>, <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net" moz-do-not-send="true"><triumphs@autox.team.net></a>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR 3 A REAR ENGINE SEAL
Message-ID: <635AFA26C07B4A8398E0946330508168@RYPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Yes, that's right. When setting with the mandrel, use shellac on the faces
against the block and main cap. Not on the scroll area.
Later, when doing the final assembly with the crankshaft in place, it
wouldn't hurt to paint a little shellac on the seal faces where they meet.
Two other points:
1) There appears to be an error in the mandrel dimensions given in the
workshop manual. See attached diagram.
2) There is an updated "Viton" seal available, that still uses the scroll
but adds a lip type seal. Highly recommended. Invented by a German TR4
racer who was upset about being black flagged when his TR4 "marked it's
spot".
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.tr4-racing.de/eng/madmarx-racing.html" moz-do-not-send="true">http://www.tr4-racing.de/eng/madmarx-racing.html</a>
IMO, you should stay away from the other lip type seal offered by some other
vendors, as it requires the scroll part of the crankshaft to be machined
away.
-- Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild
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