<div dir="ltr">An original AC fuel pump from the period of our TR3-4 cars would be marked "AC" in big letters and "made in England". Our friends in the UK have a fine resource available to them in the person of Dave Davies, a guy in Manchester who does superb restorations of fuel pumps. I have two examples of his work here now, courtesy of my regular trips over the water and a number of TR friends in the UK. He does all the normal stuff for notalot and even makes a few upgrades, such as the block-to-pump rubber seal shown in this gallery of one of his restorations.<div><a href="https://4xdog.smugmug.com/frame/slideshow?key=2trxpr&autoStart=1&captions=0&navigation=0&playButton=0&randomize=0&speed=3&transition=fade&transitionSpeed=2&clickable=1" target="_blank">https://4xdog.smugmug.com/<wbr>frame/slideshow?key=2trxpr&<wbr>autoStart=1&captions=0&<wbr>navigation=0&playButton=0&<wbr>randomize=0&speed=3&<wbr>transition=fade&<wbr>transitionSpeed=2&clickable=1</a><br></div><div><br></div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Feb 22, 2018 at 3:32 PM, Doug Mathews <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:mathews@uga.edu" target="_blank">mathews@uga.edu</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
<p>Thanks for all the input.</p>
<p>Given the age of the new ones I have (gosh knows how long ago I
bought them). Woulld there be any markins on them that would tell
me if they are AC or not. Says made in Canada. There is a stamping
of "AC10") on them.</p>
<p>Just trying to figure out what I'm dealing with.</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p>Doug<br>
</p><div><div class="h5">
<br>
<div class="m_8920395960327397879moz-cite-prefix">On 2/22/2018 11:32 AM, Bill Babbitt
wrote:<br>
</div>
</div></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div class="h5">
This may be beating a dead horse, but....<br>
When you select the repo pump on the TRF site it says the original
AC pump is supplied. Therefore, the repo in this case is not a
repo at all but the original AC pump.
<div><img src="cid:part1.FFDB1AA8.8CE5EAE1@uga.edu" alt="image2.png" id="m_8920395960327397879E2877C0E-1A50-40F8-99B7-F47CABFA9645"><br>
<div>
<div id="m_8920395960327397879AppleMailSignature">thanks,
<div>Bill</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Sent from my iPhone</div>
</div>
<div><br>
On Feb 22, 2018, at 8:27 AM, Andrew Uprichard <<a href="mailto:auprichard@uprichard.net" target="_blank">auprichard@uprichard.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>
<div class="m_8920395960327397879WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">I
have restored a TR3 each year for the past 10 years
or so and think I bought a Moss pump once. I didn’t
keep the car long enough to say if it lasted, but I
have a lot of faith in Albert Runyan a tTRF when he
says the quality is reflected in the price.
Provided the lever is not worn, these pumps are easy
to rebuild and the kit is not expensive, so this is
the route I normally go.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d"><u></u> <u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">For
the 2 cars I kept, I got a blanking plate and opted
for a facet pump.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d"><u></u> <u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">Andrew
Uprichard<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d">Jackson,
Michigan<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1f497d"><u></u> <u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">From:</span></b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">
Triumphs [<a href="mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">mailto:triumphs-bounces@<wbr>autox.team.net</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Michael Burdick<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, February 21, 2018 10:01 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Triumph Mail List<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] Question on Fuel pumps
TR3-4<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#313131;background:white">The pump my
dad had did not have a cast cam lever like those
in your picture. If memory serves, it was several
~1/16” thick pieces layered together to make up
the ~1/4” thick lever that was held in the body of
the pump with a roll pin. It did have a priming
lever though.</span><u></u><u></u></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Wed, Feb 21, 2018 at 7:03
PM Don Hiscock <<a href="mailto:don.hiscock@gmail.com" target="_blank">don.hiscock@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<u></u><u></u></p>
</div>
<blockquote style="border:none;border-left:solid #cccccc 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">This exact thing can happen
if the cam lever is inserted with the wrong
end of the lever bearing on the cam lobe.
Hard to imagine if the lever is inserted
correctly. Might be worth it to double check
that the reinstalled pump has its lever the
right way. The long flat surface on the lever
should bear against the cam.<u></u><u></u></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Here's a worn lever on an
original AC pump from being positioned
wrong-side-against-the-cam. Compare the tip
wear to a standard lever, and see the
bearing surface opposite that worn corner.
Note: I won't tell ya who did this, but
they're suitably embarrassed (and it wasn't
me) :)<u></u><u></u></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-XQ7d3fM/0/f3e2e8a6/X3/i-XQ7d3fM-X3.jpg" target="_blank">https://photos.smugmug.com/<wbr>photos/i-XQ7d3fM/0/f3e2e8a6/<wbr>X3/i-XQ7d3fM-X3.jpg</a><u></u><u></u></p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Wed, Feb 21, 2018
at 12:31 PM, Michael Burdick <<a href="mailto:burdickm@mindspring.com" target="_blank">burdickm@mindspring.com</a>>
wrote:<u></u><u></u></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">My dad had a
reproduction pump on his TR2 a few
years ago, added after the engine
was rebuilt under the assumption
that newer is better. One day not
too many thousands of miles later,
the car started, but would not stay
running more than a few seconds.
After some diagnosis, the pump was
removed and the arm that rides on
the camshaft was discovered to be
worn down to the point where the
lobe on the camshaft could no longer
move the arm. He dug the original
pump out of a box in the basement,
reinstalled it, and has been trouble
free ever since (at least with
respect to fuel pumps)*. I'm not
sure if Moss is selling that exact
pump, but I think that the axiom
"you get what you pay for" may be in
play here.<u></u><u></u></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Good luck with
the sale,<u></u><u></u></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Mike<u></u><u></u></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">* I don't want to
think about where the metal missing
from the pump arm ended up, but so
far he hasn't had any issues...<u></u><u></u></p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite">
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