<font color='black' size='3' face='Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif'><font size="3">That is exactly correct.  However, that is not just any wire, it is a special alloy that has sufficient resistance per length to give the desired resistance.  It is similar to or the same as the wire used in electric heaters.  A broken wire cannot be resoldered in the same way as a copper wire can.  That kind of wire must be spot-welded.  In my book, once that wire is broken the part is trash.<br>
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<div style="clear:both"><font size="4">Dave Massey</font><br>
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<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: TERRY SMITH <terryrs@comcast.net><br>
To: lherault <lherault@verizon.net>; Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Mon, Nov 27, 2017 6:46 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [TR] Heater rheostat switches - TR3<br>
<br>
Don't hold me to this and I'm too lazy to go look in the garage, but ISTR that the electrical contact rides up and down on a wire coil.  Usually malfunction is from the coil being broken.  If I'm mis-recollecting, please let me know?<br>
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Terry<br>
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<br>
> On November 26, 2017 at 9:26 PM <a removedlink__7163dc06-0f6d-441c-8e94-fb9b56bab2c2__href="mailto:lherault@verizon.net">lherault@verizon.net</a> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Have you opened up the rheostat? Is there a broken part that can be<br>
> replaced?  Or have you tried spraying with contact or tuner cleaner to see<br>
> if that restores function?<br>
> <br>
> Ron L<br>
> <br>
> <br>
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