<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:m="http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"><meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 14 (filtered medium)"><style><!--
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal>I am not sure how these correlate with the parts numbers which have been bandied about, but here are 2 heater rheostat switches I just pulled from my collection.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>One is shorter than the other and has a set screw versus the pin on the other. I have seen both used and they both have the correct size for the hole in the dash.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>The question has been asked about the price difference between what can be found on Moss’s site and what sells on eBay. In my experience the eBay switches are more or less on-off (no great rheostat function) and the knobs are pretty much worn out. Having said that, it is a fairly simple task repair the switches and re-paint the “heater – fast – slow” on the knobs themselves. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Andrew Uprichard<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Jackson, Michigan<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></body></html>