<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small">Does anybody know if you can run Dot 5 with the HVDA tranny conversion? The HVDA conversion uses a hydraulic throw-out bearing. I forgot to ask Herman last time I saw him.</div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small"><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small">Thx, Johnnie</div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small">'67 TR4A using Dot 4</div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sun, Sep 10, 2017 at 10:26 AM, David Porter <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:frogeye@porterscustom.com" target="_blank">frogeye@porterscustom.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
<p>FWIW, I've switched to 5.1 which is a synthetic 3/4. It is less
hydrophilic than 3/4 and has a higher boiling point. Still eats
paint though.. DaveP<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="m_4035935090964022731moz-cite-prefix">On 9/10/2017 9:49 AM, david brady
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<p>I'm switching over to DOT5. I removed all my hydraulics and
sent them off to White Post in Va for rebuilding. Fifteen years
ago WP over-size bored and pressed brass inserts into all my
hydraulics. I'm afraid I've neglected the system in the
meantime. My clutch master cylinder started leaking and it
bubbled up the surrounding paint. The DOT4 fluid turned
gelatinous and developed a precipitate. WP is probably
assembling the cylinders using DOT4 but I don't care. When I
receive the items they're going back in with DOT5. I'll let you
know how it turns out.</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>David Brady, TR250, CD8124L <done with dot3/4></p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="m_4035935090964022731moz-cite-prefix">On 09/10/2017 09:25 AM, Paul Tegler
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<p>Just like many of the replacement cyl boxes state....
warranty voided if you use silicone fluid (Dot 5)</p>
<p>What it boils down to is 5 does not lubricate the rubber
seals the way 3/4 does. It's also a crap shoot</p>
<p>as it effects synthetic vs natural rubber seals differently</p>
<p>I too have been running 5 in all my LBC's for years. Yes,
I've replaced a master or two, but no more than when I was
running 3<br>
</p>
<div class="m_4035935090964022731moz-signature">Paul Tegler <a class="m_4035935090964022731moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:ptegler@verizon.net" target="_blank">ptegler@verizon.net</a> <a class="m_4035935090964022731moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.teglerizer.com" target="_blank">www.teglerizer.com</a></div>
<div class="m_4035935090964022731moz-cite-prefix">On 9/9/2017 7:12 PM, dave wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div class="m_4035935090964022731WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal">I think that’s a good idea, but I don’t
really think its true<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<div>
<div style="border:none;border-top:solid #e1e1e1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b>From:</b> Triumphs [<a class="m_4035935090964022731moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">mailto:triumphs-bounces@<wbr>autox.team.net</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Cliff Hansen<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, September 9, 2017 12:04 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> David Friedlander <a class="m_4035935090964022731moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:forzion7@gmail.com" target="_blank"><forzion7@gmail.com></a>;
Randall <a class="m_4035935090964022731moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com" target="_blank"><TR3driver@ca.rr.com></a><br>
<b>Cc:</b> TR3 Triumphs <a class="m_4035935090964022731moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net" target="_blank"><triumphs@autox.team.net></a>;
Ann Carletta <a class="m_4035935090964022731moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:anncarletta@yahoo.com" target="_blank"><anncarletta@yahoo.com></a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] Brake Fluid for TR3A<u></u><u></u></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">You can’t switch from DOT3/4 to DOT 5
without replacing _<i>all</i>_ of the non-metal parts:
caliper seals, hoses, master cylinder seals, and
thoroughly cleaning the metal parts. I’m guessing that
they used DOT3 brake fluid as a lubricant when they
assembled the master cylinder.<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Sent from <a href="https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986" target="_blank">Mail</a> for Windows 10<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<div style="border:none;border-top:solid #e1e1e1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b>From: </b><a href="mailto:forzion7@gmail.com" target="_blank">David Friedlander</a><br>
<b>Sent: </b>Saturday, September 9, 2017 9:13 AM<br>
<b>To: </b><a href="mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com" target="_blank">Randall</a><br>
<b>Cc: </b><a href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net" target="_blank">TR3 Triumphs</a>; <a href="mailto:anncarletta@yahoo.com" target="_blank">Ann Carletta</a><br>
<b>Subject: </b>Re: [TR] Brake Fluid for TR3A<u></u><u></u></p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Randall;<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span><u></u> <u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>I am installing new brake
master cylinders in my TR3 and the boxes <u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>theycame in had the label
you can see in the attached photo. <u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>What do you make of this?<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span><u></u> <u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>I run DOT5 in my TR6
without issue but am rebuilding this <u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>TR3 and wanted to use
DOT5 here as well...<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span><u></u> <u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Thanks,<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span><u></u> <u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Dave Friedlander<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Maine<u></u><u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span><u></u> <u></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 2:35 AM,
Randall <<a href="mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com" target="_blank">TR3driver@ca.rr.com</a>>
wrote:<u></u><u></u></p>
<blockquote style="border:none;border-left:solid #cccccc 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p class="MsoNormal">There is no clear consensus on
brake fluid. Some of us love DOT 5 silicone,<br>
others hate it.<br>
<br>
But I do recommend that you find out what you have
before topping up; and<br>
also look for where it is leaking. Since this is a
single circuit braking<br>
system, it only takes one leak to rob you of all
hydraulic brakes. Not a<br>
good feeling, especially when you're going downhill
into an underground<br>
parking garage, and the handbrake is also broken!<br>
<br>
Also, if you don't have DOT 5, any other brake fluid
will eat paint promptly<br>
and promote rust. And any of them will ruin the
rear brake shoes if it gets<br>
on them.<br>
<br>
If you do use one of the non-silicone formulas, you
also shouldn't keep an<br>
old can of it. They suck moisture directly from the
air, once the can has<br>
been opened, and start getting old. That's why you
should always open a new<br>
can; and change it in your braking system every few
years, even if you don't<br>
drive the car. (Just one of the many reasons I like
DOT 5, it doesn't suck<br>
<g>)<br>
<br>
Here is a good article (IMO) on the pros & cons
of DOT 5<br>
<a href="http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Fluid/Fluid.htm" target="_blank">http://www.buckeyetriumphs.<wbr>org/technical/Brakes/Fluid/<wbr>Fluid.htm</a><br>
If you are a glutton for punishment, you can also
find the SAE papers that<br>
it references here<br>
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffdnhWS19scjlNUU0" target="_blank">https://drive.google.com/open?<wbr>id=<wbr>0B2H2NJt34OffdnhWS19scjlNUU0</a><br>
<br>
Of all the TR3s I've driven and owned, only my
current "barn find" 56 needed<br>
lead (substitute). I eventually changed the head,
and now I don't use lead.<br>
My previous TR3A engine went well over 100,000 miles
without ever having<br>
lead added.<br>
<span style="color:#888888"><br>
<span class="m_4035935090964022731hoenzb">-- Randall</span></span><u></u><u></u></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br>
<br>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
<br>
<br>
<fieldset class="m_4035935090964022731mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
<br>
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<br>
<div class="m_4035935090964022731moz-signature">-- <br>
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Porter Custom Bicycles
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