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</head><body lang="EN-US" link="blue" vlink="#954F72">Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen@outlook.com> wrote:<br>
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You can’t switch from DOT3/4 to DOT 5 without replacing _all_ of the non-metal parts: caliper seals, hoses, master cylinder seals, and thoroughly cleaning the metal parts.<br>
<br>
Actually you can. I've done it several times, including that Chevy I mentioned before and it has worked out reasonably well for me. I just filled the reservoir and bled at each corner until I got only clean, purple fluid.<br>
<br>
I suspect you don't get the full benefit of DOT 5 that way, but it worked for me. The leftover DOT 3/4 seems to collect in pockets that eventually turn to black goo, but only in places where it doesn't block flow (like the dead space in wheel cylinders). <br>
<br>
Didn't fix the leaky caliper on my old motorhome, but it did slow the leak way down. The rebuild kit that I eventually found for it is still on the shelf in the garage, even though the motorhome has been gone for 15 years <g><br>
<br>
-- Randall<br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On 9 September 2017 13:04:20 GMT-04:00, Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen@outlook.com> wrote:<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex; border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); padding-left: 1ex;">
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<p class="MsoNormal">You can’t switch from DOT3/4 to DOT 5 without replacing _<i>all</i>_ of the non-metal parts: caliper seals, hoses, master cylinder seals, and thoroughly cleaning the metal parts. I’m guessing that they used DOT3 brake fluid as a lubricant
when they assembled the master cylinder.</p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Sent from <a href="https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986">
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="border:none;padding:0in"><b>From: </b><a href="mailto:forzion7@gmail.com">David Friedlander</a><br />
<b>Sent: </b>Saturday, September 9, 2017 9:13 AM<br />
<b>To: </b><a href="mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com">Randall</a><br />
<b>Cc: </b><a href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net">TR3 Triumphs</a>; <a href="mailto:anncarletta@yahoo.com">
Ann Carletta</a><br />
<b>Subject: </b>Re: [TR] Brake Fluid for TR3A</p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans MS";color:#000099">Randall;<p></p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans MS";color:#000099">I am installing new brake master cylinders in my TR3 and the boxes <p></p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans MS";color:#000099">theycame in had the label you can see in the attached photo. <p></p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans MS";color:#000099">What do you make of this?<p></p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans MS";color:#000099">I run DOT5 in my TR6 without issue but am rebuilding this <p></p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans MS";color:#000099">TR3 and wanted to use DOT5 here as well...<p></p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans MS";color:#000099">Thanks,<p></p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans MS";color:#000099">Dave Friedlander<p></p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic Sans MS";color:#000099">Maine<p></p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 2:35 AM, Randall <<a href="mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com" target="_blank">TR3driver@ca.rr.com</a>> wrote:</p><p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">There is no clear consensus on brake fluid. Some of us love DOT 5 silicone,<br />
others hate it.<br />
<br />
But I do recommend that you find out what you have before topping up; and<br />
also look for where it is leaking. Since this is a single circuit braking<br />
system, it only takes one leak to rob you of all hydraulic brakes. Not a<br />
good feeling, especially when you're going downhill into an underground<br />
parking garage, and the handbrake is also broken!<br />
<br />
Also, if you don't have DOT 5, any other brake fluid will eat paint promptly<br />
and promote rust. And any of them will ruin the rear brake shoes if it gets<br />
on them.<br />
<br />
If you do use one of the non-silicone formulas, you also shouldn't keep an<br />
old can of it. They suck moisture directly from the air, once the can has<br />
been opened, and start getting old. That's why you should always open a new<br />
can; and change it in your braking system every few years, even if you don't<br />
drive the car. (Just one of the many reasons I like DOT 5, it doesn't suck<br />
<g>)<br />
<br />
Here is a good article (IMO) on the pros & cons of DOT 5<br />
<a href="http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Fluid/Fluid.htm" target="_blank">http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Fluid/Fluid.htm</a><br />
If you are a glutton for punishment, you can also find the SAE papers that<br />
it references here<br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffdnhWS19scjlNUU0" target="_blank">https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffdnhWS19scjlNUU0</a><br />
<br />
Of all the TR3s I've driven and owned, only my current "barn find" 56 needed<br />
lead (substitute). I eventually changed the head, and now I don't use lead.<br />
My previous TR3A engine went well over 100,000 miles without ever having<br />
lead added.<br />
<span style="color:#888888"><br />
<span class="hoenzb">-- Randall</span></span></p><p></p>
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