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<div>The stud threads are not LH and RH, only the knock offs. I would check that the correct nuts were used as they are different from the steel wheels. Also, many POs used to cut the studs to fit the wire wheel adapter rather than remove the studs to install the proper length studs. Sometimes a little too much was taken off and the stud didn't extend past the end of the nut enough which would affect the tightness of the nut. According to my old Air Force aviation maintenance training the thread has to extend at least one and a half threads for the nut to properly torque and stay tight.</div>
<div>Pete</div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div style="color: black; font-family: arial,helvetica; font-size: 10pt;">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: David Greed <david.greed@wave.co.nz><br>
To: 'EDWARD WOODS' <fogbro1@comcast.net>; 'Randall' <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>; 'Angelo Graham' <agraham@execulink.com>; triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Mon, Aug 21, 2017 6:37 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 wire wheel adapters - frightening experience.<br>
<br>
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<div class="aolmail_MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Surely the LH threads should be on the LH side and RH threads on the RH side – that’s how it is on any vehicle I have dealt with…</span></div>
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<div class="aolmail_MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"> </span></div>
<div class="aolmail_MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">DavidG</span></div>
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<div class="aolmail_MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> Triumphs [<a href="mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net?">mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>EDWARD WOODS<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, 22 August 2017 07:12<br>
<b>To:</b> Randall <<a href="mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com">TR3driver@ca.rr.com</a>>; Angelo Graham <<a href="mailto:agraham@execulink.com">agraham@execulink.com</a>>; <a href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net">triumphs@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] TR2/3 wire wheel adapters - frightening experience.</span></div>
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<div>Randall,</div>
<div> </div>
<div>That being the case, then why are wire wheel nuts R/H thread on the left side and L/H thread on the right side of the car? Not trying to be a smart ass, just puzzled. Wire wheel nuts are self tightening, aren't they?</div>
<div> </div>
<div>What's the difference?</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Ed Woods</div>
<blockquote style="margin-top: 5pt; margin-bottom: 5pt;">
<div>On August 21, 2017 at 1:54 PM Randall <<a href="mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">TR3driver@ca.rr.com</a>> wrote:</div>
<blockquote style="margin-top: 5pt; margin-bottom: 5pt;">
<div>Clearly a case of needing to do more routine checking -<br>
especially when<br>
it comes to wheels. Can't figure out why the nuts backed off</div>
<ul type="disc"><li class="aolmail_MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1;">I think<br>
Loctite would be a good idea here.</li></ul></blockquote>
<div>I'm not sure about Loctite, but it is definitely important to torque those<br>
funky double-taper nuts to 65 ft-lb (not the 50 ft-lb used for regular lug<br>
nuts). Not just any time you have them off, but every year as part of your<br>
annual wire wheel maintenance (IMO).</div>
<div>The physics is a bit hard to explain, but basically because they are right<br>
hand threads on the left hand side; any tiny bit of motion will eventually<br>
unscrew the nut!</div>
<div>I had the same thing happen with Dad's TR3A many decades ago, except I was<br>
fortunate enough to notice the squirrely handling caused by the adapter<br>
being almost off the studs before the wheel actually parted company. Just<br>
pure luck that two of the nuts were still on the threads when I took an exit<br>
ramp rather faster than I should have.</div>
<div>Then the same thing happened again, same car, just a few years ago. That<br>
time the wheel did come off, taking the fender with it.</div>
<div>-- Randall</div>
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