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<p>...that's why I said I used steel brake lines...the kind with the
coating on the outside...flaring the steel was not an issue with
such a tool.</p>
<p>Are you going tank to engine? Many times you can get 'joiners'
that will let you directly connect multiple lines together. Simply
cutting ends off let you convert to hose as needed for final
connections.</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-signature">Paul Tegler
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:ptegler@verizon.net">ptegler@verizon.net</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.teglerizer.com">www.teglerizer.com</a></div>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/11/2017 9:53 PM, David Friedlander
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAJ1eQwh7oB7MjXyo3kNYOEixOOcDxib=t8ov97non61k+gXV2w@mail.gmail.com">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">Hmmmm.... For the man who has
[about] everything.... A $279 hydraulic flaring tool! Sorry,
Paul but that's outta my price range... but it <i>looks </i>nice.
If I planned on making many flares over time, I might think
about it but.... Right now, I just want to see if there's
consensus on type of tubing and how to best form it. Not a lot
of consensus so far...</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">Thanks, Paul..</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">Dave</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099"><br>
</div>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 9:41 PM, Paul
Tegler <span dir="ltr"><<a
href="mailto:ptegler@verizon.net" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">ptegler@verizon.net</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
<p>i'm sure you'll get a zillion variations in responses,
but I've simplified my rebuilds.... I simply pick up
coated steel brake lines at my local FLAPS.</p>
<p>Cut the ends off (to remove the pre-crimped nuts) Now
I DO have a nice hand powered hydraulic flanger. so
bubbles, doubles, single flairs are dirt simple. The
beauty of this flare tool is I can do it on the car in
tight places and get near perfect flairs in seconds. So
many will tell you to only use 'conifer' (a copper
alloy?) which is easier to bend. But even the little
cheap FLAPS nut cracker looking benders do a decent
enough job...is all I use.</p>
<p>holy crap!...just did a quick google... man they have
gone up in price! I only paid around $125 6-8 years ago</p>
<p>...anyway....if you can afford it... a GREAT tool
...NFI...just very glad I bought it!</p>
<p><a
href="http://www.tooltopia.com/mastercool-71475prc.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=paid_search_google_pla&adpos=1o1&scid=scplpMAS71475PRC&sc_intid=MAS71475PRC&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI64Dj5cfQ1QIVxxuBCh0m3gxVEAQYASABEgLU__D_BwE"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">http://www.tooltopia.com/<wbr>mastercool-71475prc.aspx?utm_<wbr>source=google&utm_medium=cpc&<wbr>utm_campaign=paid_search_<wbr>google_pla&adpos=1o1&scid=<wbr>scplpMAS71475PRC&sc_intid=<wbr>MAS71475PRC&gclid=<wbr>EAIaIQobChMI64Dj5cfQ1QIVxxuBCh<wbr>0m3gxVEAQYASABEgLU__D_BwE</a></p>
<p>That is the all up kit...does 7-10 differnt types amd
multiple sizes of each. They do make a small kit<br>
</p>
<div class="m_3451921058328775240moz-signature">Paul
Tegler <a
class="m_3451921058328775240moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:ptegler@verizon.net" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">ptegler@verizon.net</a> <a
class="m_3451921058328775240moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="http://www.teglerizer.com" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">www.teglerizer.com</a></div>
<div>
<div class="h5">
<div class="m_3451921058328775240moz-cite-prefix">On
8/11/2017 6:17 PM, David Friedlander wrote:<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>
<div class="h5">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">Hey List ~</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">Hope you're all
having a great driving season!</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">I am at the point
in my rebuild where I have to install new fuel
line in </div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">my '59 TR3. Some
folks say to use copper line (5/16") because
it's </div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">easier to form.
Others say to only use steel tubing. I have seen
the </div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">steel Poly Armor
fuel line and wonder if anyone here has used it
and </div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">what the lists'
consensus on tube type and material is. Steel
requires </div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">more effort to bend
and flare, of course.....</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">Thanks in advance
for your feedback.</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">Dave Friedlander</div>
</div>
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