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<p>i'm sure you'll get a zillion variations in responses, but I've
simplified my rebuilds.... I simply pick up coated steel brake
lines at my local FLAPS.</p>
<p>Cut the ends off (to remove the pre-crimped nuts) Now I DO have
a nice hand powered hydraulic flanger. so bubbles, doubles, single
flairs are dirt simple. The beauty of this flare tool is I can do
it on the car in tight places and get near perfect flairs in
seconds. So many will tell you to only use 'conifer' (a copper
alloy?) which is easier to bend. But even the little cheap FLAPS
nut cracker looking benders do a decent enough job...is all I use.</p>
<p>holy crap!...just did a quick google... man they have gone up in
price! I only paid around $125 6-8 years ago</p>
<p>...anyway....if you can afford it... a GREAT tool ...NFI...just
very glad I bought it!</p>
<p><a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.tooltopia.com/mastercool-71475prc.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=paid_search_google_pla&adpos=1o1&scid=scplpMAS71475PRC&sc_intid=MAS71475PRC&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI64Dj5cfQ1QIVxxuBCh0m3gxVEAQYASABEgLU__D_BwE">http://www.tooltopia.com/mastercool-71475prc.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=paid_search_google_pla&adpos=1o1&scid=scplpMAS71475PRC&sc_intid=MAS71475PRC&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI64Dj5cfQ1QIVxxuBCh0m3gxVEAQYASABEgLU__D_BwE</a></p>
<p>That is the all up kit...does 7-10 differnt types amd multiple
sizes of each. They do make a small kit<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-signature">Paul Tegler
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:ptegler@verizon.net">ptegler@verizon.net</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.teglerizer.com">www.teglerizer.com</a></div>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/11/2017 6:17 PM, David Friedlander
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAJ1eQwhj-JrZLF0tuAWYc=80CP7+TC1SCPr_-8cwOQm_o1Cr0w@mail.gmail.com">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">Hey List ~</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">Hope you're all having a great
driving season!</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">I am at the point in my rebuild
where I have to install new fuel line in </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">my '59 TR3. Some folks say to use
copper line (5/16") because it's </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">easier to form. Others say to
only use steel tubing. I have seen the </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">steel Poly Armor fuel line and
wonder if anyone here has used it and </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">what the lists' consensus on tube
type and material is. Steel requires </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">more effort to bend and flare, of
course.....</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">Thanks in advance for your
feedback.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;color:#000099">Dave Friedlander</div>
</div>
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