<html><body><div style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000"><div aria-label="Compose body">Oh, and one more thing. Give all of the cages a squeeze with a vise grip to tighten the cages on the nut if they are really loose. They might spin during reassembly. </div><div aria-label="Compose body"><br></div><div aria-label="Compose body">// Dave H.</div><div><br></div><hr id="zwchr"><div style="color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;" data-mce-style="color: #000; font-weight: normal; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>From: </b>"davehogye" <dlhogye@comcast.net><br><b>To: </b>"JOSEPH MATO" <joemato@sbcglobal.net><br><b>Cc: </b>"TR list" <triumphs@autox.team.net><br><b>Sent: </b>Monday, July 17, 2017 11:48:31 AM<br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [TR] fender bolts<br><div><br></div><div style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000" data-mce-style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000;"><div>Heat and wax is definitely worth a try as well as any penetrating fluid you can get in there, before trying wax. I'm not sure if fluid inhibits the wax, so it maybe one or the other, but not both. </div><div>If you can get it to move, tighten it back a little to expose the "clean" thread and shoot some more pen fluid in there. Cleaning any exposed threads with a wire brush to remove rust and dirt will help too.</div><div>On my TR3, I found that the nut in the cage would often spin before the bolt came loose. It's good to put a vise grip on the cage if you can get to them. </div><div>I ended up replacing 32 cages and nuts on my car during the resto. I replaced anyone that might be a problem during reassembly. I also chased every original caged nut and reassembled every bolt with anti-seeze.</div><div>Good luck,</div><div>Dave H.</div><div><br></div><hr id="zwchr"><div style="color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;" data-mce-style="color: #000; font-weight: normal; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>From: </b>"JOSEPH MATO" <joemato@sbcglobal.net><br><b>To: </b>triumphs@autox.team.net<br><b>Sent: </b>Monday, July 17, 2017 10:04:52 AM<br><b>Subject: </b>[TR] fender bolts<br><div><br></div><div style="color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:verdana, helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:24px" data-mce-style="color: #000; background-color: #fff; font-family: verdana, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 24px;"><div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1500309706691_14918"> Has anyone come up with a foolproof way to get fender bolts off without snapping them. I would think heat from a torch would help along with soaking with WD40. also, what do you use on the snapped head ones. thanks, Joe Mato</div></div><br><div><br></div>** triumphs@autox.team.net **<br><div><br></div>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye@comcast.net<br></div><div><br></div></div><br><div><br></div>** triumphs@autox.team.net **<br><div><br></div>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye@comcast.net<br></div><div><br></div></div></body></html>