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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color="#1f497d" face=Calibri><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>I have run Valvoline VR1 conventional for years with no adverse effects, never was a fan of synthetics. However, I perceive that you drive a lot more than my 1,000 per year.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color="#1f497d" face=Calibri><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>Bill B<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color="#1f497d" face=Calibri><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>TS30800L<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color="#1f497d" face=Calibri><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal><b><font size=2 face=Calibri><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;font-weight:bold'>From:</span></font></b><font size=2 face=Calibri><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] <b><span style='font-weight:bold'>On Behalf Of </span></b>TERRY SMITH<br><b><span style='font-weight:bold'>Sent:</span></b> Wednesday, May 03, 2017 4:59 PM<br><b><span style='font-weight:bold'>To:</span></b> Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>; Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>; Reihing, Randall S. <Randall.Reihing@utoledo.edu><br><b><span style='font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></b> [TR] Ready for a change (literally)<o:p></o:p></span></font></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>Okay. I started running my TR3 using Valvoline full syn. At rebuild, the tappets had shared metal with the cam. Not using that oil again. Switched to Mobil I 10-30 full syn because I read it had high (correct me, ZDDP???). But the car leaks oil more than a drip or two even with carefully applied gaskets and the scroll reduction mod for the rear seal (which others say isn't all that effective). <o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>I really hate to bring this all up again, but one recommendation here was a Penzoil syn product. If lubricant retention is a problem with Mobil I, then exactly what are people running?<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>I also need to add, I'm a daily driver, not occasional. Drive in March to work at 35 degrees in the morning, through 90 degrees in the summer, then back to 35 degrees in the Fall, every day, an hour and a half. <o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>Really interested in your thoughts? <o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>Terry Smith, '59 TR3A<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>New Hampshire<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>On May 3, 2017 at 9:25 AM "Reihing, Randall S." <<a href="mailto:Randall.Reihing@utoledo.edu">Randall.Reihing@utoledo.edu</a>> wrote:<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>Many years ago Mobil 1 caused so many problems we did tests in our University Fluids Lab using a Saybolt Viscosimeter and other devices. We discovered that in relatively short time following engine shutdown, the Mobil 1 drained down so effectively the thickness of the Mobil 1 residual oil film retained on cylinder walls was insufficient to prevent metal-to-metal contact at startup. Even after relatively short intervals, like 24 hours. Newer synthetic and semi-synthetic oils do not appear to have this issue. They offer superior protection in engines that see frequent use, which may be the key. Our 2016 Toyota Camry uses Toyota's recommended fully synthetic oil and has factory recommended 10,000 mile oil change intervals. No idea what Toyota's recommendation is for long intervals of non-use, like 30 days or longer. I don't know if the new synthetic oils have adequate cylinder wall film retention to resist corrosion during long term storage. For my 1959 TR3A, (titled as a 1960) I still<br>prefer non-synthetic oils, especially during winter storage, for their thick film retention on the cylinder walls when the car sits for an extended period of time.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>In a somewhat different area, owners of light aircraft with the small aircraft engines like the Continental C85 and 0-200 engines often use Aeroshell semi-synthetic 15W-50 ashless dispersant oil with a Lycoming developed anti-wear additive that Shell adds to the oil. This is a premium semi-synthetic oil recommended for use in these small engines. A lot of people who use this oil in these small engines like it but for those whose aircraft see limited use, often going 3-4 weeks between flights, their owners have sometimes discovered dripping and seeping they never had before along with increased oil consumption.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>In my own experience with a light aircraft powered by the small Continental 0-200 that was rebuilt to FAA certified zero time condition and has just 346 hours since rebuild, I found that I prefer straight 30 or 40 wt. Aeroshell with the same Lycoming anti-wear additive. I use 40 wt. oil in the summer when temps are above 80 degrees or so, and straight 30 wt. for cooler temperatures. This is per the Teledyne/Continental manufacturer recommendations regarding use of straight weight oils. Following engine rebuild and break-in, I had switched to the semi-synthetic Aeroshell oil upon recommendation of the IA (an aircraft mechanic with FAA certified Inspection Authorization) who performed the annual inspection. With the 15W-50 semi-synthetic oil the crankcase breather tube drips at shutdown, an oil film from crankcase blow-by accumulates on the underside of the aircraft, and oil consumption is slightly greater. With Aeroshell straight wt. oil I have no seeping, oil consumption is normal, c<br>rankcase blow-by is minimal and dripping from the crankcase breather tube is significantly reduced.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>But far more importantly when I was using the Aeroshell 15W-50 semi-synthetic oil, if the aircraft sat for several weeks without the engine being operated, the oil pump, which sits above the oil sump, occasionally lost it's prime. When that happens there will be zero oil pressure at startup and the oil pump never recovers it's prime. The only recourse is to re-prime the oil pump. This was never a factor with the straight weight oils I have returned to and what appears to be, a thicker residual oil film after shut down. The only explanation for the oil pump never losing it's prime with straight weight oils has to be retention of a thicker oil film inside the oil pump cavity and on the new oil pump gears which were replaced at rebuild. The straight weight oils also appear to leave a thicker oil film on the cylinder walls offering greater protection from the effects of ambient humidity when sitting for 30 days or so without being operated. For winter storage I now use straight 40 wt. oi<br>l, operate the engine at normal oil temperature for 10-15 minutes and shut down. Desiccant plugs replace the spark plugs and every 3-4 weeks the prop is rotated by hand to re-distribute any oil film that has settled by gravity.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>I also use straight 40 wt.oil in the TR3, which is not used during winter months, and have never had any issues.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>Just my experiences. I am sure others have different outcomes but this is what I have found to work for me.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>Randall Reihing<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>________________________________________<br>From: Triumphs [triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] on behalf of Randall [TR3driver@ca.rr.com]<br>Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2017 7:39 PM<br>To: 'Triumphs'<br>Subject: Re: [TR] How often should I change oil in triumph that rarely does muchmileage?<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>Well, I guess I'm curious about any distinctions between dinosaur oil and<br>fully synthetic oils. Recommended oil changes for BMW is now somewhere in<br>the 17000 range, isn't it, if using synthetic? And how do the syn<br>properties react to moisture/contaminant retention?<o:p></o:p></span></font></p></blockquote><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>I dunno, but AFAIK, all the synthetic oil makers still say to follow the<br>vehicle manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>Long time ago, Mobil 1 said otherwise and even advertised extended oil<br>change intervals as balancing the higher cost of the oil. Then someone did<br>a test where they took a bunch of brand new taxi cabs, filled them with<br>Mobil 1, and used the extended change intervals. The test was stopped<br>earlier than planned, "due to excessive oil consumption". IIRC Mobil<br>changed their recommendation not long after that.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>-- Randall<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>** <a href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>Donate: <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>Forums: <a href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.teamnet/mailman/options/triumphs/randall.reihing@utoledo.edu">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/randall.reihing@utoledo.edu</a><o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>** <a href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **<o:p></o:p></span></font></p><p><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>Donate: <a href="http://www.team.net/donatehtml">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>Forums: <a href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs@comcast.net">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs@comcast.net</a><o:p></o:p></span></font></p></blockquote></div></body></html>