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    <p>LOL.  I guess it is me that should be retired.</p>
    <p>Roger<br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 04/04/2017 08:27 AM, David
      Friedlander wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:CAJ1eQwgTjSypuXz_N6Dxg0j_2y0xn8vzmN0a2-6bwAfadGw3Bw@mail.gmail.com"
      type="cite">
      <div dir="auto">AARP bolts? Maybe they're took old to work and
        have retired! LOL!   
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">Dave</div>
      </div>
      <div class="gmail_extra"><br>
        <div class="gmail_quote">On Apr 4, 2017 1:36 AM, "Roger Elliott"
          <<a moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:elliottr@rmi.net">elliottr@rmi.net</a>>
          wrote:<br type="attribution">
          <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
            .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
            <div bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
              <p>The shop did the head rebuild and install both times,
                so I am not sure if they followed the correct
                procedures. It has AARP studs.  They were new when they
                rebuilt the head the first time and have not been
                replaced.</p>
              <p>The first time they rebuilt the head, the head gasket
                blew at 800 miles.  (It had been retorqued).  I replaced
                the head gasket that time as I didn't want to wait to
                get it in.  I used a better head gasket, discovered the
                timing was way too far advanced, I figured that was why
                the head gasket blew.  I followed the manual for
                tightening specs and order.   Actually I used the AARP
                specs for tightening, I think they were a bit higher
                than the manual.<br>
              </p>
              <p>Then one of the valves froze at 2000 miles after the
                head rebuild - 1200 after I replace the head gasket. 
                Head had been retorqued.  This is when they said nothing
                they did caused the valve to stick.  They added an
                external oil feed  as they said it was not getting
                lubrication, plus new valves, seats and guides.  </p>
              <p>When I checked the block it seemed good, but I was
                doing around the head studs.  <br>
              </p>
              <p>Oh, when I got it home and started looking at it, 2
                valves were less than .004, the rest were one each .005
                through .010.</p>
              <p>Just looked back at the head gasket.  It doesn't look
                so good. It has holes around the sealing ring.<br>
              </p>
              Roger<br>
              <br>
              <div class="m_5248246297067244917moz-cite-prefix">On
                04/03/2017 06:11 AM, ptegler wrote:<br>
              </div>
              <blockquote type="cite">
                <p>upon installing the head after the first rebuild, did
                  you re-torque the head after the intial warmup up/cool
                  down heat cycle?</p>
                <p>did you use new head studs? what spec did you torque
                  to?  proper order of studs?<br>
                </p>
                <div class="m_5248246297067244917moz-signature">Paul
                  Tegler <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                    class="m_5248246297067244917moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
                    href="mailto:ptegler@verizon.net" target="_blank">ptegler@verizon.net</a>
                  <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                    class="m_5248246297067244917moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
                    href="http://www.teglerizer.com" target="_blank">www.teglerizer.com</a>
                </div>
                <div class="m_5248246297067244917moz-cite-prefix">On
                  4/2/2017 10:25 PM, Chris Simo wrote:<br>
                </div>
                <blockquote type="cite">
                  <div dir="auto">Any chance the block is not flat?</div>
                  <div class="gmail_extra"><br>
                    <div class="gmail_quote">On Apr 2, 2017 7:55 PM,
                      "Roger Elliott" <<a moz-do-not-send="true"
                        href="mailto:elliottr@rmi.net" target="_blank">elliottr@rmi.net</a>>
                      wrote:<br type="attribution">
                      <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0
                        0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc
                        solid;padding-left:1ex">Hi All,<br>
                        <br>
                        I have a 1980 Spitfire, the head has been
                        rebuilt twice in the last 2,500 miles.  (Shop
                        claims something happened between first and
                        second rebuild, so not their fault)<br>
                        <br>
                        Anyway, I have taken it for a few drives ~60 
                        miles at a time and all seemed good, so we were
                        going to take it on a bit longer drive.<br>
                        <br>
                        35 miles from home, the temp gauge is pegged, I
                        put in lots of water - maybe not quite a half
                        gallon.  Started up to try to drive back home,
                        there was lots of white smoke from the exhaust. 
                        I don't think it was smoking much if at all
                        before it overheated as I was kind of keeping an
                        eye on the car behind us and did not see smoke.<br>
                        <br>
                        I got 3 miles and decided to call a tow truck. 
                        It was low on water again - at least a quart in
                        those 3 miles.<br>
                        <br>
                        I used a leak down tester - though didn't really
                        do a real leak down test - to see if the
                        cylinders were holding air.  All seemed fine
                        except 4 which was not holding air and I could
                        hear the air coming through the radiator water
                        was bubbling.<br>
                        <br>
                        So, I took the head off expecting the head
                        gasket to be blown or something obvious with the
                        head.<br>
                        <br>
                        Head gasket was fine.  My checks of the head
                        with feeler gauge and straight edge indicated it
                        is flat.  I don't see anything wrong with the
                        head.<br>
                        <br>
                        Do I need to have it checked for cracks?  Or
                        what else could be wrong?<br>
                        <br>
                        Or could it be that the overheating loosened the
                        head enough that water got past the gasket?<br>
                        <br>
                        Thanks,<br>
                        <br>
                        Roger Elliott<br>
                        <br>
                        <br>
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