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<DIV>Thanks so much. That is a great explanation .</DIV>
<DIV>Harry</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 3/13/2017 9:14:11 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
john.macartney@ukpips.org.uk writes:</DIV>
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<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif'>I do hope my
verbosity doesn’t auto-trash this reply from the server but I’m able to tell
you why these replacement tranny covers don’t fit as expected. From what I
have learned this far, it’s a universal problem and I’ve found the answer in a
sheaf of papers written by my Dad back in the late 50’s. For those who are not
aware, Dad was Quality Control Manager and Chief Inspector at Standard-Triumph
until the Leyland take-over.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif'>The problem first
raised its head with the start of Herald production. What few people know is
that key parts of Herald assembly were made by different suppliers namely the
scuttle (firewall) bonnet, floor and rear deck. As a result and because the
bodies were built up ‘visually’ and not in proper body jigs, the conformity of
panel gaps and door shut lines were achieved by loosely assembling the entire
structure and then using a variety of timber levers and rubber mallets to
achieve overall alignment in which the “it looks about right” was the prime
decider. This was by no means an exact science and in the early years of the
Herald’s production life (certainly the first two years) resulted in
horrendous warranty costs through water leakage. Gradually, they managed to
get the issues sorted but with the arrival of the TR4/4A/5/250/6 the bodies
were assembled in much the same way. That’s why we never took visitors into
the body assembly area as the somewhat brutal way that things were put
together was not felt desirable for visitors to see!<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif'>The issue of the
transmission tunnel was a major headache. The factory fit version was made of
a semi-liquid form of chewed cardboard put over a perforated zinc former and
bonded with fish glue which was then baked to harden the assembly off.
Initially, holes were drilled in this cover for securing bolts to be fitted
but more often than not the holes failed to line up precisely with the chassis
securing lugs. This was overcome (eventually) by briefly fitting inked spikes
into the chassis lugs, resting the tunnel assembly on them and then hitting
the appropriate point with a piece of one inch die tube to achieve the
approximate hole punch location. The tunnel was then removed, inverted and the
ink marks on the underside and scuttle mating surfaces showed where the holes
needed to be punched. Having now determined the more or less precise position
of the holes along the front and side edges, the tunnel was then put into a
separate jig to mark off how much of the tail end needed to be removed with a
circular saw.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif'>Because of the
‘variability’ of where these holes eventually appeared means that no two cars
were exactly the same in all critical dimensions and this is what the parts
aftermarket has entirely overlooked. Those who now make these tunnels have
assumed (incorrectly) that the size and positioning of the required holes was
identical in every case and that’s why they’re such a s*d to fit and why
they’re nearly always too short. Simply, someone has obtained an old cover,
assumed its dimension was/is a one-size-fits-all and made accordingly. The
originals were always made longer than necessary so there was a tailend to
remove and that amount of removable section depends entirely on each
individual car.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif'>How do you overcome
it? You can’t – unless you’re really lucky. A strip of soft aluminium to
bridge the back end is probably the only option open to anyone. With regard to
where you locate heat mat, I feel the underside is probably better because if
you plan to fit new carpets, these too will probably come to fit an ‘exact’
dimension rather than a sloppy one which was how the carpets were made in the
past.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif'>Hope this
helps<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif'>Jonmac<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P></DIV><BR><BR>
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