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I have the alternator on the front side of the front plate, and in one of
the pics you can see a strap going between the alternator bracket bolt
and the water pump. I have to saw like 1/4" off of the rear
face of the ear of the alternator for the pulleys to line up.
Obviously I've put a large pulley on to lessen HP loss, you'll want to
stay with the stock smaller pulley. I also have to drill out the
hole in the ear slighly so that the hole is the same diameter as the one
in the front plate. I still have the generator bracket on the
engine, but only the front hole has the alternator bolt going through
it.<br><br>
The front plate is unmodified, although I've had to bush the mounting
hole due to wear over the years.<br><br>
Does that help? I've got the engine spread all over the garage and
could take some more pics if it helps.<br><br>
Regards, Tony.<br><br>
At 12:09 PM 1/19/2017, Lee&John Howard wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">Tony, Randall and
Andrew:<br><br>
<br>
Thank you for your very helpful replies.<br><br>
I'm inclined to the late 70's Chevy option, easily available at my
O'Reilly's. It and the Suzuki's appear to have similar dimensions,
altho hard to tell of course from website photos. Anyway, I'll dry
fit the Chevy first.<br><br>
Tony: Any hints on how you modified the engine bracket to mount the
single ear of the Chevy generator?<br><br>
John<br><br>
On Wed, Jan 18, 2017 at 9:21 PM, Tony Drews
<<a href="mailto:tony@tonydrews.com">tony@tonydrews.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
<dl>
<dd>Found a couple of additional pics - main page here:<br>
<dd>
<a href="http://www.tonydrews.com/2008-9Rebuild/2008-9_Rebuild-Engine_Installation.htm">
http://www.tonydrews.com/2008-9Rebuild/2008-9_Rebuild-Engine_Installation.htm</a>
<br><br>
<dd>Pics<br>
<dd>
<a href="http://www.tonydrews.com/2008-9Rebuild/2009_0329EngineInstallation0002.JPG">
http://www.tonydrews.com/2008-9Rebuild/2009_0329EngineInstallation0002.JPG</a>
<br><br>
<dd>
<a href="http://www.tonydrews.com/2008-9Rebuild/2009_0329EngineInstallation0013.JPG" eudora="autourl">
http://www.tonydrews.com/2008-9Rebuild/2009_0329EngineInstallation0013.JPG</a>
<br><br>
<dd>Regards, Tony<br><br>
<dd>At 11:16 PM 1/18/2017, Tony Drews wrote:<br>
<dl>
<dd>I run a GM one wire deal (just use a jumper to make it a one wire
setup) and it clears my headers.<br><br>
<dd><a href="http://www.tonydrews.com/2008-9Rebuild/DSCN0577.JPG">
http://www.tonydrews.com/2008-9Rebuild/DSCN0577.JPG</a><br><br>
<dd>Probably depends on the design of the headers on what fits.<br><br>
<dd>One advantage is if it goes out, any auto parts store carries
it. Needed to make minor mods to the case so can't get core charge
back. Do late 70's Chevy pickup with v8 and I think Bob's your
uncle for this setup.<br><br>
<dd>Regards, Tony Drews<br><br>
<dd>At 08:45 PM 1/18/2017, Lee&John Howard wrote:<br>
<dl>
<dd>Listers:<br><br>
<dd>I am so done with the generator and control box ; time for the
alternator conversion.<br><br>
<dd>There is a nifty alternator inside what looks like the skin of theTR4
generator ( available at British Parts Northwest and other places, I
presume) and I excitedly ordered one. It turns out to be a inch longer in
circumference, enough so that it would not fit beside and beneath my
headers. I think this would also be the case with the alternators
ordinarily used in conversion.<br><br>
<dd>So my question is : has someone with the TR3-4 engine with headers
founds an alternator that fits?<br><br>
<dd>Alternatively has anyone switched he position to the LH
side? That would be a neat solution.<br><br>
<dd>Thanks for your help.<br><br>
<dd>John H<br><br>
<dd>**
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