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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#1F497D'>If I were to use a drill, I think I would try a slightly undersize bit. Rust usually breaks up fairly easily but removing original material might be a lot to ask a full size, generic bit to do at such a length. I would dread the thought of a drill bit breaking of in the hole. I think there would be less chance of breakage with a slightly undersize drill.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#1F497D'>Alex Thomson <o:p></o:p></span></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal><b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Bill Brewer<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, December 03, 2016 9:48 PM<br><b>To:</b> triumphs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt'> So I am rebuilding a Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus 4. The connecting rods have been laying on a shed floor for decades. They cleaned up nicely, but the oiling hole through the connecting rod to the small end bushings were all rusted solid. I made a tool out of a piece of 1/8 brass welding rod. I pounded the end flat, like a screwdriver, and pounded it in while turning with a small Vise-grips. It got the hole opened and rust poured out. The hole is about 0.180” diameter. I’ve been trying to find a long 3/16ths tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean them out better, but no one makes one long enough. The brush needs to be about 5” long and the longest that McMaster Carr has is 3”. I could pull the small end bushings out and go at it from both ends, but the bushings in there fit the wrist pins perfectly and I would rather not mess them up if I can help it.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt'> I have been considering buying a 12” long 3/16ths (.188”) drill bit and running that through. It might open up the hole a little bit, which might not be a bad thing.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt'><a href="http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-Bit/74680.uts">http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-Bit/74680.uts</a><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt'> Has anybody else been here? How did you get by this?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt'> TIA,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt'> Bill Brewer<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt'> Tehachapi, CA<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div></body></html>