<html><head></head><body><div style="color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:verdana, helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px"><div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1469335559134_9873" dir="ltr">I replaced the piston rings and rod bearings from underneath on my TR250. Its a fairly straightforward process just time consuming. But all I did was drop the pan I did not get into the front or rear seals for the crank, so when I buttoned it back up there were no leaks. Other than being a bit more fiddly doing it with the engine in the car I don't see any real issues. But again I have never done it so cant speak from experience.</div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1469335559134_10422" dir="ltr">Tim</div> <div class="qtdSeparateBR"><br><br></div><div class="yahoo_quoted" style="display: block;"> <div style="font-family: verdana, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> <div dir="ltr"><font face="Arial" size="2"> On Sunday, July 24, 2016 12:50 AM, marty <trmarty@hotmail.com> wrote:<br></font></div> <br><br> <div class="y_msg_container"><div id="yiv6547602818">
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<div><div dir="ltr">Is it possible to do a bearing swap by just pulling the pan and not have leaks when you are done? I'm looking at it and thinking that once you pull the front sealing block to access the front main cap that there is a high likelihood of leaks in that area with the timing cover, front engine plate and sealing block. I'm not really wanting to pull the engine out and tear the darn thing down to swap out rod and main bearings but part of me says I need to. Anybody been there done that as far as just going in from underneath?<br> <br>Marty<br> </div></div>
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