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<p>when you say 'drops out' if you ease up, does it come back in?</p>
<p>If so it IS simply lower pressure and the annulus shoes are not
holding against the ring. If these shoes have worn and are thin,
simply put the annulus is not moving far enough to hold (just like
maladjusted brake shoes)</p>
<p>ptegler<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/10/2016 9:23 PM, Rye Livingston
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:7018e47c-a946-439f-a16f-7b85c010b81b@me.com"
type="cite">
<div>I'm very confident that they know what they're doing having
worked on hundreds of transmissions and overdrives, and they've
made the similar assessments that you have, that it's not that
complex and they are stymied why they're not finding an
obvious issue. They've replace the o-rings on the pistons and
checked every seal and journal hoping to find some scratch or
something. And yes, at moderate speed, 40 mph in 3rd or 4th,
switching on the OD it shifts right in. It's not until it's
under load that it drops back out. They've done test drives
with the pressure gauge on it, and it doesn't sound like there's
a time when there is too much pressure, but IDK for sure so I'll
forward your email to them.</div>
<div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
</div>
<div>Rye</div>
<div><br>
On Jun 10, 2016, at 05:22 PM, David Porter
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:frogeye@porterscustom.com"><frogeye@porterscustom.com></a> wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div class="msg-quote" bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
<p>What I am reading is that your car has a throttle switch
installed. "when I'm accelerating and flip the switch for
OD, it doesn't go into OD until I let up."</p>
<p>The switch on the dash activates only the solenoid which
allows oil pressure to flow into the operating pistons and
push the clutch assembly into the "OD" mode. Period. Did
I say Period.</p>
<p>So assuming you are going at least 40MPH, even 200PSI
will engage (regardless of what the books say) All the A
units are virtually identical. Now, having said that,
Triumph did specify differences in the accumulator/lack of
accumulator and accumulator spring.</p>
<p>So, you told me before that there is no throttle switch
(kick down relay) installed, therefore it sounds to me
that there is too much pressure at increased rpm and it is
blowing the oil pressure past the currently installed
o-rings and or piston rings. After you decrease engine
(ergo pump speed) it re-engages. I would certainly replace
the rings and rubber O-rings. There is no modern computer
involved. This is a purely 'mechanical' issue. Your shop
should have found the issue by now???</p>
<p>DaveP<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/10/2016 9:50 AM, Rye
Livingston wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>Transmission update - for those reading about this
for the first time, this is a 1960 TR3 with a TR4 OD
transmission. Yesterday they said it's basically a TR250
transmission. The whole transmission and OD was rebuilt
by a British car specialist of 40+ years. His employee
has also been working on British cars for years, and is
a transmission specialist. They've rebuilt literally
100s of transmissions and ODs. They had 4 OD cores on
their bench as they were showing me different parts of
the system.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Symptom - when I'm accelerating and flip the switch
for OD, it doesn't go into OD until I let up. When in
2-3 or 4th gear, OD engaged, and punch it, it will
downshift like an automatic transmission while I
accelerate, then shift back into OD when I let up.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I'm not technical enough to know how to describe all
what they told me, but I'll try. First off, I forwarded
the comments when I posted this issue a couple of
weeks ago, and keep in mind it's not the easy/obvious
things. They've checked all the electrical, solenoids,
ground, oil type, etc. When in OD it's not slipping.
They've tested the PSI with a gauge attached while
driving down the expressway, and jacked up with the
wheels off the ground. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The issue is that it's not getting high enough PSI.
It's over 400 PSI, but it needs to be 490 to over 500,
I think they said 520. They've taken the transmission
back out, taken the OD all apart, and there's nothing
obvious. They've changed the piston in the pump.
Originally it had a pump that would shift softer because
I've got a torquey engine and the other pump, which they
called a competition pump, would be hard on the
differential, but they've got that one in the car now.
They showed me a seal that goes around that piston and
said the new seals are rubber and they got one like the
original style that has some sort of metal reinforcement
in it to hopefully make a better seal. Not very clear I
know, but hopefully that makes sense. They've checked
the seats where a small ball bearing must make a perfect
seal, they all look perfect. They said everything looks
absolutely pristine. No scoring down passageways that
might not allow maximum PSI, etc. They also showed me
the lining on a Sun gear they had on the beach, and said
mine looked good and the rivets looked original. They
put it all back together, went for a test drive, and
that didn't fix it.<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>They've spent literally 20+ hours on this
transmission, plus several more hours doing internet
research on the problem. As they described everything
and what they've checked, which seems like everything, I
said I'd send out this email to the list. Not that they
haven't tried everything, but I'm hoping there may be
one little nugget of info they haven't tried, or a test
they can run, that will lead to the solution.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thanks,</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Rye Livingston<br>
</div>
<div>Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club</div>
<div>Activities Chairman</div>
<div>1960 TR3A</div>
<div>PH: 530-FIND-RYE</div>
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