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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link="#0563C1" vlink="#954F72"><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal>In the vintage motorcycle world the dominant opinion is towards winter storage with full tanks, although there are a few dry-tank advocates. The idea here is to minimize tank rusting due to exposure to air. At spring start-up for my TR3A, I run several pints of fuel through the lines into a clear pyrex container. The first 5-6 oz or so are cloudy, and I continue to run fuel (it’s easy with a Facet pump) until it runs clear. Before I began adding stabilizer several years ago, I could see long “bubbles” of pure water and rust particles in the first pint or so. Now, with stabilized fuel, these water “bubbles” no longer appear. When the fuel runs clear, I reattach the lines and start the car. It’s a bit of a clunky start, with water vapor showing in the exhaust for a minute or so, but after that the car is ready for spring driving. I then filter the scavenged fuel (the filtrate is clear) and pour it into the gas tank of my Dodge pick-up. Both vehicles seem happy with this process. Based on my winter storage experience with three vehicles, I recommend storage with full tanks of stabilized fuel.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'> Rick in Seattle<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>1960 Triumph TR3A<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>1970 BSA 441 Victor Special<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>1975 Norton Commando 850 Mk3</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>