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<DIV>we had trouble getting it in that last inch. I bought some 1/4” bolts
long enough to go all the way through the holes. that pulled it in the
last inch. I also found that unbolting the driveshaft from the
differential then setting it up on the diff gave me some extra maneuvering
room. its just 4 bolts. you can also remove the plugs and turn the
engine from below by the fan. btw – its hell to put those things in.
I wouldn’t do it myself. </DIV>
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<DIV style="font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=ahwahneetr@gmail.com
href="mailto:ahwahneetr@gmail.com">Geo Hahn</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Monday, February 1, 2016 5:24 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=terryrs@comcast.net
href="mailto:terryrs@comcast.net">terryrs@comcast.net</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A title=triumphs@autox.team.net
href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net">TR3 Triumphs</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [TR] transmission installation</DIV></DIV></DIV>
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<DIV>Terry -</DIV>
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<DIV>I made some guides by cutting the heads off of long bolt and slotting the
end for a screwdriver. My hope was to thread them in then fit the bell
housing over them but the gearbox had to be too far forward for that so instead
I fitted them thru the holes in the bell housing & into the block to help
things line up for the final push.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I use a transmission jack from harbor Freight under the gearbox to help
maneuver it but that is possibly overkill.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I also had a pipe (old jack handle actually) under the tailshaft to add
some more support that would still let it roll fore and aft.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>As I recall, I raised the rear of the engine as far as the throttle shaft
would allow to make things go together.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>This (like yours) was an overdrive box. If I never have to do it
again that will be fine by me.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Geo</DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>