<html><body><div style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000"><div aria-label="Compose body">All good solid advice. </div><div aria-label="Compose body">The fulcrum pin is the inside upper and lower a-arm pivots. The upper pin is replaceable, but the lower isn't really. Are you sure that you have the parts terminology correct? What car is this?</div><div aria-label="Compose body">The upper pin replacement wouldn't necessarily include removable of the tie rod end.</div><div aria-label="Compose body"><br></div><div aria-label="Compose body">Dave H.</div><div aria-label="Compose body"></div><hr id="zwchr"><div style="color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;" data-mce-style="color: #000; font-weight: normal; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>From: </b>"Tony Drews" <tony@tonydrews.com><br><b>To: </b>"Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, "Harold Sawatsky" <hsawatsk@sasktel.net>, triumphs@autox.team.net<br><b>Sent: </b>Friday, January 22, 2016 10:44:00 AM<br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [TR] Removing Tie-rod 56TR3<br><div><br></div>+1 on that style of ball joint separator - seems to be much nicer to <br>the ball joint, especially if I'm taking it apart but don't plan to <br>replace the ball joint.<br><div><br></div>Tony Drews<br><div><br></div>At 09:41 AM 1/22/2016, Randall wrote:<br><div><br></div>> > First, thanks for all the input I received before Xmas. The<br>> > project this weekend is to remove the tie rod as one of the<br>> > fulcrum pins is completely destroyed<br>><br>>A very common problem in my experience. You might want to consider <br>>upgrading to the Delrin/SS joints as sold by ARE & TRF. They<br>>will last much longer.<br>><br>> > Also, should we replace any other bushings while we are<br>> > doing this? It does look like most other components are in<br>> > good condition.<br>><br>>The inner A-arm bushings are another common problem, IMO; <br>>particularly the upper ones. For the other joints, pry and wiggle against<br>>them looking for any movement. In general, if you can see them move <br>>at all in ways they are not supposed to, the joint should be<br>>replaced.<br>><br>>Also look for any play in the steering box. If you see any, my <br>>suggestion is to rebuild it rather than trying to adjust the screw<br>>on the top. It's to compensate for manufacturing tolerances, not wear IMO.<br>><br>> > Trying to find some documentation or advice as to the best<br>> > way to proceed and do I need any specialty tools.<br>><br>>This style of tool seems to work the best for me<br>>http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html<br>><br>>Never had much luck with the "pickle fork" style, especially on <br>>those fulcrum pins (aka silentblocs).<br>><br>>Randall<br>><br>><br>>** triumphs@autox.team.net **<br>><br>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<br>>Unsubscribe/Manage: <br>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony@tonydrews.com<br><div><br></div><br><div><br></div>** triumphs@autox.team.net **<br><div><br></div>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye@comcast.net<br></div><div><br></div></div></body></html>