<html><body><div style="color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:verdana, helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:13px"><div><span>There is a rubber fitting under the sill on the wheel box just like there is on top. These rubber parts deteriorate over time and can crack. Im guessing that is what has happened to yours. Its a fairly easy thing to replace.</span></div> <div class="qtdSeparateBR"><br><br></div><div class="yahoo_quoted" style="display: block;"> <div style="font-family: verdana, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> <div dir="ltr"> <font face="Arial" size="2"> On Thursday, January 22, 2015 7:31 PM, Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net> wrote:<br> </font> </div> <br><br> <div class="y_msg_container">After much effort, I got the wiper motor and switch working as they should.<br clear="none"><br clear="none">Ed, a list
member, sent me the following information:<br clear="none">The green wire is always connected to 12V, thru the fuse of course.<br clear="none">For High Speed, ground the R/LG wire.<br clear="none">For Low Speed, ground the R/LG wire and the N/LG wire.<br clear="none">That is the way it works in the TR250. It sounds like other Triumphs do <br clear="none">it differently.<br clear="none"><br clear="none">But now, I have discovered a new problem - isn't that the way it always <br clear="none">goes!<br clear="none"><br clear="none">The passenger wheel box assembly wobbles when the wiper is running. It <br clear="none">wobbles less when the windshield is wet, but it still wobbles.<br clear="none"><br clear="none">I have tightened the nut as much as I dare - it helped, but it still <br clear="none">wobbles.<br clear="none"><br clear="none"><br clear="none">The first thing I did in this process was to pull the wiper rack cable <br clear="none">out,
cleaned and greased it and put it back in. I did not do anything <br clear="none">to the wheelboxes, thinking the grease on cable would take care of the <br clear="none">wheel boxes.<br clear="none"><br clear="none"><br clear="none">Do I need to get new wheelbox fittings? Will that help? Is there <br clear="none">anything else that holds them in place?<br clear="none"><br clear="none">Thanks,<br clear="none">Roger<div class="yqt6490663554" id="yqtfd42266"><br clear="none">On 01/11/2015 10:35 PM, Randall wrote:<br clear="none">>> Thanks for the description Randall! I had been using Greg's<br clear="none">>> method. I am pretty sure I found the green one, but I blew a<br clear="none">>> couple of fuses in the process.<br clear="none">>><br clear="none">>> I think there is something wrong with the motor, it only runs<br clear="none">>> with one of the terminals grounded. But I am going
to be<br clear="none">>> more careful in my tests now that I have Randall's instructions.<br clear="none">> Thanks for the vote of confidence, but I fear it may be unmerited. I was relying on Dan's description of how the low/high speed<br clear="none">> works as I've never owned a TR250. I know Lucas did it different ways on different motors, so I just assumed Dan had it right for<br clear="none">> the TR250.<br clear="none">><br clear="none">> But another list member has written me off-list, saying that the TR250 uses a different arrangement than the one Dan gave. If what<br clear="none">> he says is true, then likely everything I just said is wrong. Obviously, I need to do some research, but don't have time at the<br clear="none">> moment.<br clear="none">><br clear="none">> Sorry for the confusion.<br clear="none">> Randall<br clear="none">><br clear="none">><br clear="none"><br
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