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<DIV>Tony -</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>- I'd settle for bump stops and dishes "not perfectly aligned" -
these are WAY off - but I'll try installing with all with the
original shims back in place after I resolve the trailing arm/CV joint clearance
issue.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>- I'm pretty sure this car has never had any frame or significant body
damage and I think all the trailing arm shims are original to the car as
well.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>- I've been working on the trailing arms with them mounted on the car but
hanging almost straight down - with the car on a lift - makes test fitting the
axles and hubs pretty easy. </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG>Without the hub bolted onto the axle</STRONG>, there is enough play
in the splines to allow the CV joint to rotate thru a larger circle than it
would once bolted in place - making the interference appear worse than it would
be in use. I decided to use this as the test condition, so as to be assured of
plenty of clearance in use.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>- Originally, I did all my test fitting without a brake backing plate
between the hub and the trailing arm - only to realize when I thought I was
finished, that the presence of the brake backing plate draws the the CV joint
into the tapered tunnel thru the trailing arm far enough to rub again.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>- the hub mounting bolt circle on these trailing arms don't appear to be
terribly far off, although I have noticed all the rubbing is on the front on
each side.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>- I have been removing material from the interior of that tunnel with 30
grit sanding sleeves on a 3 inch diameter 1 inch deep sanding drum on an air
drill. Silicon carbide sleeves for soft metals work really well without clogging
at all - unfortunately the reason the don't clog is that they abrade quickly -
so I won't be doing any more until i get more sanding sleeves in tomorrow.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Cheers,</DIV>
<DIV>Jack Mc</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 1/11/2015 11:08:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
spamiam@comcast.net writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px"><FONT
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2 face=Arial>Jack,
<BR><BR>My bump stop dishes do not perfectly align with the bump stops,
including all the original shims<BR><BR>My car has had no frame damage, and I
think the shims are all original to the car. <BR><BR>I did/do have
trouble with clearance on the trailing arms. On the first one, drivers
side (left), I had only a little interference and a little dremel carbide burr
grinding did the job<BR><BR>The other side was/is a bit of a problem.
The original installation of the 6 studs was a bit off. You can see that
the bottom stud is well centered, but all the rest are slightly out of
position, the circle is pivoted on that bottom stud by a little bit to the
right. This makes the left-most 2 studs excessively close to the inside
edge (slight perforation of the inner thin wall when drilling for
keenserts)<BR><BR>And it further reduces clearance on the right side by maybe
0.060". This means there is a LOT of interference. I<BR><BR>I
thought I had everything just barely clearing on the bench. I had the
hub bolted very snugly and no palpable or audible interference was
present. Mechanics blue showed no touching<BR><BR>So I installed the
axle and trailing arm which is a pain in the neck because the axle limits
downward excursion. I got it all hooked up and all torqued except the
250ft-lb 1.25" nut. As I then turned the axle, I could just barely
hear and feel some interference! Then it went away, but if I shoved hard
on the hub, and twisted I could gets one real grinding. So I took
off the TA again and I need to hit it with a real die grinder
tomorrow. <BR><BR>I only need to remove a little more metal, but I will
put some tape on the highest parts,: the clip and, oddly, the edge
closest to the wheel. The tape will make sure I have enough clearance,
more than just a thousandth. I don't want to remove much metal, but
I going to shoot for about 0.010 (3 thicknesses of masking
tape?)<BR><BR>I will need to be removing some metal from nearly 180 degrees to
clear the clip, but only at the 3:00 position is it a significant amount.
<BR><BR>-Tony<BR><BR>Sent from my iPhone<BR><BR>On Jan 11, 2015, at 6:19 PM,
Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com> wrote:<BR><BR>> Tony - <BR>> <BR>>
I am also installing GoodParts CV jointed axles on a IRS TR4A at the moment
and I found the same thing - I think there were 5 shims behind every bracket,
plus a couple of non-original smaller shims that must have been added at some
point for alignment. I have remounted the trailing arms with no shims (for
now) thinking I'd let the alignment shop sort out how many should be where,
but I have noticed the bump stop dish on the trailing arm on one side no
longer lines up with the bump stop on the body. <BR>> I haven't looked into
that any further because I am distracted by a more immediate problem: <BR>>
The outer CV joint boot and boot clip are making contact with the trailing arm
- I've never had this problem on the many TR6s I've done this to - so I
measured and found the tunnel in the TR4A trailing to be smaller than any of
the TR6 trailing arms I have on hand - hard to quantify how much since these
tunnels taper, but looks like the TR4a trailing arm tunnels are a little over
0.1 inch smaller in internal diameter. Have you encountered this? <BR>> As
an aside, there are quite a few subtle differences between the TR4a trailing
arms and TR6 trailing arms - and the quality of casting looks better with the
TR4 trailing arms - the quality of casting got better during the TR6 model
run, but these TR4 arms make early TR6 trailing arms look crude by comparison.
<BR>> <BR>> Cheers,<BR>> Jack
Mc</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>