From rrochlin at comcast.net  Sat May  2 08:23:07 2026
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2026 10:23:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Clutch Return Spring and Pedal Position
Message-ID: <CF2785B5-F182-4039-8D12-A63ED6F830AD@comcast.net>


	I've pulled the old TR6 out of hibernation tuned it and adjusted the valve for the upcoming season. The car is running great. 
	 I'm now  attempting to install the clutch return spring on the TR6.  I haven't had a return spring in place since I acquired  the car over 30 years ago, but I had the spring and decided to install it. The issue is that without the spring the clutch pedal is at the proper orientation to the brake pedal but when I install the spring the clutch pedal pulls  toward the driver and is much higher than should be and also pulls the clutch actuating rod out of the clutch master cylinder. It almost seems as if there is some kind of stop missing. What is supposed to keep the clutch pedal from hyperextending toward the driver with the return spring in place? 
	As I said, I haven't had the spring in place since I got the car and can continue to live without it, but I'd like to install it if it will contribute to having a bit more footwell room.
	Thanks.
	Best,
	Bob
	'72 TR6.

From johnbmacartney at gmx.com  Sat May  2 10:19:36 2026
From: johnbmacartney at gmx.com (JOHN MACARTNEY)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2026 18:19:36 +0200
Subject: [TR] Apologies for the lack of a 'story' of late
Message-ID: <trinity-244fc387-dddc-40ba-956b-a578025b8d07-1777738776784@3c-app-mailcom-bs02>

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From johnbmacartney at gmx.com  Sat May  2 12:39:57 2026
From: johnbmacartney at gmx.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2026 19:39:57 +0100
Subject: [TR] Clutch Return Spring and Pedal Position
Message-ID: <A4B55202-EA56-4984-BEE6-0CBCC045F440@gmx.com>

Rob,

Are you sure the spring you?ve got is the correct length? What you describe seems more than a bit unusual. It?s so long since I?ve had my head in a TR footwell, I can?t remember how the spring was attached to the body. Can others enlighten us/me with a pic or two of their own cars?

Jonmac

> On 2 May 2026, at 15:23, Rochlin Robert <rrochlin at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> 
>    I've pulled the old TR6 out of hibernation tuned it and adjusted the valve for the upcoming season. The car is running great. 
>     I'm now  attempting to install the clutch return spring on the TR6.  I haven't had a return spring in place since I acquired  the car over 30 years ago, but I had the spring and decided to install it. The issue is that without the spring the clutch pedal is at the proper orientation to the brake pedal but when I install the spring the clutch pedal pulls  toward the driver and is much higher than should be and also pulls the clutch actuating rod out of the clutch master cylinder. It almost seems as if there is some kind of stop missing. What is supposed to keep the clutch pedal from hyperextending toward the driver with the return spring in place? 
>    As I said, I haven't had the spring in place since I got the car and can continue to live without it, but I'd like to install it if it will contribute to having a bit more footwell room.
>    Thanks.
>    Best,
>    Bob
>    '72 TR6.


From dave at ranteer.com  Sat May  2 20:40:32 2026
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Sun, 3 May 2026 02:40:32 +0000
Subject: [TR] dizzy needed
Message-ID: <66c3d2f1bca94f1db0de7ebb3146d489@ranteer.com>

I am looking to buy a spare dizzy for an early 74 TR6.  Used but working.  I can put in new points, condenser, rotor, cap, etc.  just need a good unit to keep as a backup in case my Pertronix fails
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun May  3 04:57:53 2026
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sun, 3 May 2026 10:57:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Clutch Return Spring and Pedal Position
In-Reply-To: <A4B55202-EA56-4984-BEE6-0CBCC045F440@gmx.com>
References: <A4B55202-EA56-4984-BEE6-0CBCC045F440@gmx.com>
Message-ID: <975979123.5583973.1777805873253@mail.yahoo.com>

It sounds like the circlip that retains the actuating rod has gone missing.? This circlip prevents the rod from exiting the end of the cylinder and stops pedal travel to a reasonable position depending on the amount of wear and elongation that has occurred over the years in the holes for the clevis pin which I can attest from experience can be considerable.? But I digress.? There should be a circlip that keeps the actuating rod captive in the cylinder and if it is not there you run the risk of loosing the ability of disengaging the clutch which can ruin your day.
Dave 


 

    On Saturday, May 2, 2026 at 03:59:37 PM CDT, John Macartney <johnbmacartney at gmx.com> wrote:   

 Rob,

Are you sure the spring you?ve got is the correct length? What you describe seems more than a bit unusual. It?s so long since I?ve had my head in a TR footwell, I can?t remember how the spring was attached to the body. Can others enlighten us/me with a pic or two of their own cars?

Jonmac

> On 2 May 2026, at 15:23, Rochlin Robert <rrochlin at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> 
>? ? I've pulled the old TR6 out of hibernation tuned it and adjusted the valve for the upcoming season. The car is running great. 
>? ? I'm now? attempting to install the clutch return spring on the TR6.? I haven't had a return spring in place since I acquired? the car over 30 years ago, but I had the spring and decided to install it. The issue is that without the spring the clutch pedal is at the proper orientation to the brake pedal but when I install the spring the clutch pedal pulls? toward the driver and is much higher than should be and also pulls the clutch actuating rod out of the clutch master cylinder. It almost seems as if there is some kind of stop missing. What is supposed to keep the clutch pedal from hyperextending toward the driver with the return spring in place? 
>? ? As I said, I haven't had the spring in place since I got the car and can continue to live without it, but I'd like to install it if it will contribute to having a bit more footwell room.
>? ? Thanks.
>? ? Best,
>? ? Bob
>? ? '72 TR6.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From dave at ranteer.com  Sun May  3 18:19:11 2026
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Mon, 4 May 2026 00:19:11 +0000
Subject: [TR] trailer
Message-ID: <a65373bc753b40f9a0b9240d005e0c46@ranteer.com>

I need to trailer a car from Dallas to Reno

Thought just for grins if anyone has a trailer they want moved in that general direction.  I would certainly go out of my way if one was available

Dave Northrup
Dallas, TX
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From rjray.architect at gmail.com  Mon May  4 16:46:26 2026
From: rjray.architect at gmail.com (rjray.architect at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 4 May 2026 17:46:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] trailer
In-Reply-To: <a65373bc753b40f9a0b9240d005e0c46@ranteer.com>
References: <a65373bc753b40f9a0b9240d005e0c46@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <041e01dcdc17$d77e7620$867b6260$@gmail.com>

Sounds like a nice drive in a Triumph.

 

We have a company her called U-Haul, that actually rents trailers. I am not
sure if they have Dallas locations.

 

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of dave northrup
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2026 7:19 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] trailer

 

I need to trailer a car from Dallas to Reno

 

Thought just for grins if anyone has a trailer they want moved in that
general direction.  I would certainly go out of my way if one was available

 

Dave Northrup

Dallas, TX

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From dave at ranteer.com  Mon May  4 17:48:38 2026
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Mon, 4 May 2026 23:48:38 +0000
Subject: [TR] trailer
In-Reply-To: <041e01dcdc17$d77e7620$867b6260$@gmail.com>
References: <a65373bc753b40f9a0b9240d005e0c46@ranteer.com>,
 <041e01dcdc17$d77e7620$867b6260$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <f9dc17815b164eeb94da92a8bd062ee3@ranteer.com>

Never heard of them.  Suppose i could find them on the internet???


-------- Original message --------
From: rjray.architect at gmail.com
Date: 5/4/26 5:46 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>, triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] trailer

Sounds like a nice drive in a Triumph.

We have a company her called U-Haul, that actually rents trailers. I am not sure if they have Dallas locations.


From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of dave northrup
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2026 7:19 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] trailer

I need to trailer a car from Dallas to Reno

Thought just for grins if anyone has a trailer they want moved in that general direction.  I would certainly go out of my way if one was available

Dave Northrup
Dallas, TX
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From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue May  5 15:01:55 2026
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2026 17:01:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] trailer
In-Reply-To: <041e01dcdc17$d77e7620$867b6260$@gmail.com>
References: <a65373bc753b40f9a0b9240d005e0c46@ranteer.com>
 <041e01dcdc17$d77e7620$867b6260$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeOrCgBu2--WO6dPWeZ-VdZ+N5Zcpv+6-VE_md6+JOtb=Q@mail.gmail.com>

LOL on the uhaul

On Tue, May 5, 2026, 4:17 PM <rjray.architect at gmail.com> wrote:

> Sounds like a nice drive in a Triumph.
>
>
>
> We have a company her called U-Haul, that actually rents trailers. I am
> not sure if they have Dallas locations.
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *dave
> northrup
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 3, 2026 7:19 PM
> *To:* triumphs at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [TR] trailer
>
>
>
> I need to trailer a car from Dallas to Reno
>
>
>
> Thought just for grins if anyone has a trailer they want moved in that
> general direction.  I would certainly go out of my way if one was available
>
>
>
> Dave Northrup
>
> Dallas, TX
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com
>
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From dave at ranteer.com  Tue May  5 15:13:54 2026
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2026 21:13:54 +0000
Subject: [TR] trailer
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeOrCgBu2--WO6dPWeZ-VdZ+N5Zcpv+6-VE_md6+JOtb=Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <a65373bc753b40f9a0b9240d005e0c46@ranteer.com>
 <041e01dcdc17$d77e7620$867b6260$@gmail.com>,
 <CANhzkeOrCgBu2--WO6dPWeZ-VdZ+N5Zcpv+6-VE_md6+JOtb=Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <19f85e609c3742d58d055e231bd39cd3@ranteer.com>

Your proctologist called.

He found your head


-------- Original message --------
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
Date: 5/5/26 4:03 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: rjray.architect at gmail.com
Cc: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>, list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] trailer

LOL on the uhaul

On Tue, May 5, 2026, 4:17 PM <rjray.architect at gmail.com<mailto:rjray.architect at gmail.com>> wrote:
Sounds like a nice drive in a Triumph.

We have a company her called U-Haul, that actually rents trailers. I am not sure if they have Dallas locations.


From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of dave northrup
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2026 7:19 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] trailer

I need to trailer a car from Dallas to Reno

Thought just for grins if anyone has a trailer they want moved in that general direction.  I would certainly go out of my way if one was available

Dave Northrup
Dallas, TX
** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From dave at ranteer.com  Thu May  7 10:17:54 2026
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2026 16:17:54 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 rear end
Message-ID: <d4291ef4d6074e239650f96c76e839b2@ranteer.com>

I happen to have several bottles of this.   Any reason not to use it in the differential on my 58 TR3a?  It was just rebuilt and i need to fill it
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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Thu May  7 15:18:52 2026
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Thu, 07 May 2026 21:18:52 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 rear end
Message-ID: <db109906-ee16-c0fa-f43e-db7a79eec2ec@earthlink.net>

Once upon a time I was told not to use GL-5 in a TR6 transmission because it ate the brass parts.  I've also seen comments about Redline being good.  I'd wait for a proper response from somebody that can provide good advice.

Brian 

-----Original Message-----
From: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
Sent: May 7, 2026 11:58 AM
To: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 rear end

I happen to have several bottles of this. Any reason not to use it in the differential on my 58 TR3a? It was just rebuilt and i need to fill it

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive (http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs)

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From johnbmacartney at gmx.com  Thu May  7 15:29:54 2026
From: johnbmacartney at gmx.com (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2026 22:29:54 +0100
Subject: [TR] Rear axle oil
Message-ID: <993C7EE4-D33A-4558-9CEB-D11022E75154@gmx.com>

Had an early night after spending the day sorting old Standard-Triumph handbooks (among lots of other stuff) and have just checked the grade for Standard Vanguard and TR3/3A as both used the same axle. Factory recommended an 85W90 GL4 type Hypoy as offered by Shell, BP, Castrol, Duckhams, Texaco. IOW, a hyper lube type with an ultra high resistance to shear. Does the stuff you have offer the same lubricity properties? Never heard of it myself but most modern oils are a complete mystery to me anyway. Still can?t get used to the family daily driver only being allowed a 0w20 full synthetic. Pours like water!

Jonmac

From dave at ranteer.com  Thu May  7 15:31:51 2026
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2026 21:31:51 +0000
Subject: [TR] Rear axle oil
In-Reply-To: <993C7EE4-D33A-4558-9CEB-D11022E75154@gmx.com>
References: <993C7EE4-D33A-4558-9CEB-D11022E75154@gmx.com>
Message-ID: <d7aed572da504622999a4e0eb45f03c0@ranteer.com>

I checked with Macy's Garage in Ohio, who rebuilt the axle, and they gave this oil the ok!

-----Original Message-----
From: John Macartney <johnbmacartney at gmx.com> 
Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2026 4:30 PM
To: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Rear axle oil

Had an early night after spending the day sorting old Standard-Triumph handbooks (among lots of other stuff) and have just checked the grade for Standard Vanguard and TR3/3A as both used the same axle. Factory recommended an 85W90 GL4 type Hypoy as offered by Shell, BP, Castrol, Duckhams, Texaco. IOW, a hyper lube type with an ultra high resistance to shear. Does the stuff you have offer the same lubricity properties? Never heard of it myself but most modern oils are a complete mystery to me anyway. Still can?t get used to the family daily driver only being allowed a 0w20 full synthetic. Pours like water!

Jonmac

From dave at mdmackay.ca  Thu May  7 15:33:27 2026
From: dave at mdmackay.ca (Dave MacKay)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2026 17:33:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 rear end
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1778176808.22985.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1778176808.22985.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4a43b3d36a2c2ad0903237a1910217a2@mail.gmail.com>

I used to use that but stopped when I learned that GL4 is what's
recommended. After speaking with Dave Tushingham (former Toronto Triumph
Club president and host of the 'Cheftush' Youtube channel), I drained out
the Redline GL5 and replaced it with Redline GL4.

Over the years I've compiled a list of fluifs to use in my TR3. The notes
that I have for the differential are to use 90W or 75W90 GL-4 EP (Extreme
Pressure) gear oil (e.g., Redline MT90 GL4).

- Cheftush (former Toronto Triumph Club President and host of the YouTube
channel) says it's important to use GL4 in a differential.
- Slightly more than 1 litre required
- Valvoline SynPower 75W90 will eat yellow metal
- Red Line recommends MT90 GL4 for both the TR3A transmission and gearbox.

I used to use GL5 but drained it all and replaced it with Redline GL4.

Regards,

Dave MacKay
1960 TR3A s/n 68639L
near Toronto, Canada

-----Original Message-----

Date: Thu, 7 May 2026 16:17:54 +0000
From: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 rear end

I happen to have several bottles of this.   Any reason not to use it in
the differential on my 58 TR3a?  It was just rebuilt and i need to fill it
URL:
<http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20260507/85f2a9a9/at
tachment-0001.jpg>

From smithwm845 at gmail.com  Thu May  7 16:04:34 2026
From: smithwm845 at gmail.com (William Smith)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2026 18:04:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear End
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1778176808.22985.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1778176808.22985.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CADy_YYqUcXsHkSugJHdUs+QpwTZGN=ZLm=H=YnOC=eZFCKD--Q@mail.gmail.com>

Dave,

I noticed from the picture that this Redline gear oil is GL5.  If your
differential still has brass bits in it, the additives in GL5 may eat them
away.  To be safe, I'd stick with GL4.
GL4 is seldom seen in local parts stores, but can be sourced from the usual
British parts suppliers.

Bill Smith
'72 TR6
'80 TR7

On Thu, May 7, 2026, 4:19?PM <triumphs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
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>
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>
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>    1. TR3 rear end (dave northrup)
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 7 May 2026 16:17:54 +0000
> Subject: [TR] TR3 rear end
> I happen to have several bottles of this.   Any reason not to use it in
> the differential on my 58 TR3a?  It was just rebuilt and i need to fill it
> _______________________________________________
>
> Triumphs mailing list
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri May  8 05:44:29 2026
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2026 11:44:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 rear end
In-Reply-To: <db109906-ee16-c0fa-f43e-db7a79eec2ec@earthlink.net>
References: <db109906-ee16-c0fa-f43e-db7a79eec2ec@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <1211212827.7518843.1778240669845@mail.yahoo.com>

I've used Redline MTL and/or MT90 in my transmissions and diff's for years with no issues.? There are other synthetic gear lubs that will serve as well, I'm sure.? Check the label.? If it says it is GL4 compatible you're good to go.
Dave 


 

    On Thursday, May 7, 2026 at 11:40:03 PM CDT, Brian Kemp <bk13 at earthlink.net> wrote:   

 Once upon a time I was told not to use GL-5 in a TR6 transmission because it ate the brass parts.? I've also seen comments about Redline being good.? I'd wait for a proper response from somebody that can provide good advice.

Brian 

-----Original Message-----
From: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
Sent: May 7, 2026 11:58 AM
To: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 rear end

I happen to have several bottles of this. Any reason not to use it in the differential on my 58 TR3a? It was just rebuilt and i need to fill it

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Fri May  8 16:31:41 2026
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2026 15:31:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 rear end
In-Reply-To: <d4291ef4d6074e239650f96c76e839b2@ranteer.com>
References: <d4291ef4d6074e239650f96c76e839b2@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <626192531.473850.1778279501540@connect.xfinity.com>

That's fine for a non-standard limited slip.  
 
Dave H. 

> On 05/07/2026 9:17 AM PDT dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>  
>  
> I happen to have several bottles of this.   Any reason not to use it in the differential on my 58 TR3a?  It was just rebuilt and i need to fill it ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net
> 
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From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Fri May  8 19:43:58 2026
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2026 19:43:58 -0600
Subject: [TR] Speedometer cable repair kits -- any experience?
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFDid5n=q-ENc0UkY+7wYnCjrBKsJ3Ys2xSBoRzAE4QXFQ@mail.gmail.com>

The 8' overdrive speedometer cable on my TR3B broke at the drive end a few
months ago and I'm looking at replacement/repair options.

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-gHQ6r2K/0/Kw43kwPvCn3hvxVCzrPkczV9fbgmfGBnXBfxprNXV/X5/i-gHQ6r2K-X5.jpg

The silver-sheathed cables (the most authentic to the Smiths originals)
formerly sold by TRF are out of stock and Albert reports his UK supplier
went out of business unexpectedly, so with no alternative supplier they're
not likely to come back anytime soon.

Moss sell a 96" cable, but the housing is black.  Certainly an option.

Napa sell speedometer cable repair kits, with various length universal-fit
inner cables and a simple sort of staking tool to attach a fitting to one
end.  The end fitting and staking tool are sold without the drive cable, as
well.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6151798
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6151823

Has anyone used one of these?  How to they work?  It sorta looks like one
cuts the cable to the right length and attaches the fitting, I'm guessing
to the instrument end on our cars.  Is that right?  Are these a realistic
repair option?
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From mark at bradakis.com  Sat May  9 00:49:18 2026
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2026 00:49:18 -0600
Subject: [TR] Rear axle oil - overall lubricants and new designs
Message-ID: <e0bf3d51-7c5b-4f51-b55b-e9eaa005617e@bradakis.com>

For some reason this was flagged by Mailman.  No idea why.

mjb.

=========

-----Original Message-----

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2026 3:30 PM
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Rear axle oil

Had an early night after spending the day sorting old Standard-Triumph 
handbooks (among lots of other stuff) and have just checked the grade 
for Standard Vanguard and TR3/3A as both used the same axle. Factory 
recommended an 85W90 GL4 type Hypoy as offered by Shell, BP, Castrol, 
Duckhams, Texaco. IOW, a hyper lube type with an ultra high resistance 
to shear. Does the stuff you have offer the same lubricity properties? 
Never heard of it myself but most modern oils are a complete mystery to 
me anyway. Still can?t get used to the family daily driver only being 
allowed a 0w20 full synthetic. Pours like water!

Jonmac

=========

Regarding the 0w20, I'd like to have a bit of a rant on today's 
mechanical designs.

When we take a look at the longevity of the supposed "high technology" 
direct injection engines of today and over the past say 10-15 years, it 
is woefully clear that these driveline designs are not lasting.  Sure, 
they provide performance and a lot of mpg per BHP per cc/cid, but all 
that tech designs have all sorts of problems.
Might that be from too thin oil?  As a long time cross-discipline 
control system professional,  the lubricants  or use of improper spec 
lubricants may be a cause, but not entirely, as when you tear into these 
new tech engines, they are yes, mechanical marvels controlled by complex 
computer management, but also, mechanical nightmares more likely to 
self-destruct if a microparticle of contaminate invades the wrong 
internal spot, a sensor allows the wrong stuff to enter the engine 
somewhere or the coolant level drops because some plastic coolant 
manifold or connection has a weak spot and suddenly dumped all the 
coolant creating a high temp spike on the close tolerance components.

We love the new tech performance, but at what cost?

People slammed the Triumph Stag 2997 CC OHC V8 for its design "flaws" 
but when I dive into some of these newer engines there are strikingly 
similar designs copied, I have seen across many other engine 
manufacturers including GM, Mercedes, Toyota, Ford, JLR and others.  One 
example is timing chains, OHC design, etc.  Today's OHC engines, all of 
them, have issues with timing chain tensioners, guides, oil pumps which 
are manifested from engine designs over 75 years ago but cost cut even 
more and designed to very narrow performance limits and very close 
tolerance requirements.

When I look at these newer high-performance engines, they all appear to 
have the same old issues: multiple simplex roller timing chains (some 
use internal rubber belts!!!)  held in place by insufficiently designed 
guides and tensioners driving all sorts of internal components like 
oil/fuel/water pumps buried deep internally into the engine, variable 
valve timing, variable stroke, very high-pressure requirements for oil 
and fuel with electronics like solenoids and sensors operating in the 
component lubricants, and they all have significant design structural 
problems from material and cost scrimping and lack of real longevity 
whether they are petrol/gas or diesel.

I have been looking at the various JLR newer models, and what incredible 
value can be had in say a Range Rover autobiography /SV/Dynamic/ that 
had cost 180k USD or far more, yet with a blown 5.0 liter engine, they 
are relatively worthless.  To rebuild one of those 3.0 or 5.0 engines, 
have a look at some of the teardown and rebuilds of any modern direct 
injection engine and you will quickly see the engines are all completely 
disposable designs; materials are skimped in the blocks to save 
manufacturing time, weight and maximize cooling, but when they break, 
they self-destruct. Labor alone to tear down and reassemble is often 
more that the OEM cost of the entire engine, and the factory does not 
provide rebuild kits.  What is a pound of engine webbing structural 
aluminum removed from a 600 bhp supercharged engine as an assembly or 
weight saving design on a 6000# weight vehicle?  Maybe if designed for 
the track that amounts to a fraction of a second of speed, but a road 
vehicle?!?

Lubricants:
Historically, the fact was, API / SAE lubricants designed for components 
were once supposed to increase the range of mechanical protections with 
new specifications as time went on, where today, a mechanical component 
may be designed only for one very narrow type of lubricant that was 
designed only for that unique application.

The API/ SAE "meets or exceeds" statements must be carefully dissected 
to understand exactly what the lubricant use range and components 
lubricants are approved, which may take significant research.

If you decide to use your "favorite brand" oil or coolant in a modern 
driveline component not certified for use in that narrow design, you 
might be unknowingly starting the self-destruction timer.

So, to answer the question for our old and very reliable vehicles, BEGIN 
with the Owner's Manual / Factory Manual specification for your 
lubricants in and on your components as they were designed by the 
manufacturer, and if that type of lubricant is not available, look and 
understand what and why it was replaced with a later API/SAE tested 
lubricant that "should" add increased protection in that application.
AVOID AT ALL COSTS, "my buddies or I uses this and swears by it..."  I 
typically do not trust my local parts shoppe counter person for 
lubricant recommendation unless that counter person was once a master 
mechanic or factory trained tech, that being rare.  There are reams of 
Technical Service Bulletins where the factory engineers got it wrong 
too, only discovered during or after warranty periods.
Lubrication is its own science, but if you read the specs, you will get 
the limitations and also the mechanics tales for snake oil.

Caveat Emptor ya'll.

Glenn a.k.a. StagByTriumph



From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Sat May  9 07:36:36 2026
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2026 08:36:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Speedometer cable repair kits -- any experience?
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFDid5n=q-ENc0UkY+7wYnCjrBKsJ3Ys2xSBoRzAE4QXFQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFDid5n=q-ENc0UkY+7wYnCjrBKsJ3Ys2xSBoRzAE4QXFQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <855288D2-C3D2-433D-944C-40EF117542C2@yahoo.com>

Try Morris at West Valley Instruments, he has all the cables but I am not sure of the colors. 
818-758-9500

NFI,
Bill
TS30766L 

?The harder I work, the luckier I get?  H. Ford

On May 8, 2026, at 9:38?PM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:

?
The 8' overdrive speedometer cable on my TR3B broke at the drive end a few months ago and I'm looking at replacement/repair options.

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-gHQ6r2K/0/Kw43kwPvCn3hvxVCzrPkczV9fbgmfGBnXBfxprNXV/X5/i-gHQ6r2K-X5.jpg

The silver-sheathed cables (the most authentic to the Smiths originals) formerly sold by TRF are out of stock and Albert reports his UK supplier went out of business unexpectedly, so with no alternative supplier they're not likely to come back anytime soon.

Moss sell a 96" cable, but the housing is black.  Certainly an option.

Napa sell speedometer cable repair kits, with various length universal-fit inner cables and a simple sort of staking tool to attach a fitting to one end.  The end fitting and staking tool are sold without the drive cable, as well.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6151798
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6151823

Has anyone used one of these?  How to they work?  It sorta looks like one cuts the cable to the right length and attaches the fitting, I'm guessing to the instrument end on our cars.  Is that right?  Are these a realistic repair option?

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Sat May  9 07:56:36 2026
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2026 08:56:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rear axle oil - overall lubricants and new designs
In-Reply-To: <e0bf3d51-7c5b-4f51-b55b-e9eaa005617e@bradakis.com>
References: <e0bf3d51-7c5b-4f51-b55b-e9eaa005617e@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <EB31B245-BE4B-417F-9789-6616D0F5D166@yahoo.com>

Stay with a GL4 85/90w lube, I think j found it at NAPA. 
Bill
TS30766L

?The harder I work, the luckier I get?  H. Ford

On May 9, 2026, at 2:45?AM, Mark Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

?For some reason this was flagged by Mailman.  No idea why.

mjb.

=========

-----Original Message-----

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2026 3:30 PM
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Rear axle oil

Had an early night after spending the day sorting old Standard-Triumph handbooks (among lots of other stuff) and have just checked the grade for Standard Vanguard and TR3/3A as both used the same axle. Factory recommended an 85W90 GL4 type Hypoy as offered by Shell, BP, Castrol, Duckhams, Texaco. IOW, a hyper lube type with an ultra high resistance to shear. Does the stuff you have offer the same lubricity properties? Never heard of it myself but most modern oils are a complete mystery to me anyway. Still can?t get used to the family daily driver only being allowed a 0w20 full synthetic. Pours like water!

Jonmac

=========

Regarding the 0w20, I'd like to have a bit of a rant on today's mechanical designs.

When we take a look at the longevity of the supposed "high technology" direct injection engines of today and over the past say 10-15 years, it is woefully clear that these driveline designs are not lasting.  Sure, they provide performance and a lot of mpg per BHP per cc/cid, but all that tech designs have all sorts of problems.
Might that be from too thin oil?  As a long time cross-discipline control system professional,  the lubricants  or use of improper spec lubricants may be a cause, but not entirely, as when you tear into these new tech engines, they are yes, mechanical marvels controlled by complex computer management, but also, mechanical nightmares more likely to self-destruct if a microparticle of contaminate invades the wrong internal spot, a sensor allows the wrong stuff to enter the engine somewhere or the coolant level drops because some plastic coolant manifold or connection has a weak spot and suddenly dumped all the coolant creating a high temp spike on the close tolerance components.

We love the new tech performance, but at what cost?

People slammed the Triumph Stag 2997 CC OHC V8 for its design "flaws" but when I dive into some of these newer engines there are strikingly similar designs copied, I have seen across many other engine manufacturers including GM, Mercedes, Toyota, Ford, JLR and others.  One example is timing chains, OHC design, etc.  Today's OHC engines, all of them, have issues with timing chain tensioners, guides, oil pumps which are manifested from engine designs over 75 years ago but cost cut even more and designed to very narrow performance limits and very close tolerance requirements.

When I look at these newer high-performance engines, they all appear to have the same old issues: multiple simplex roller timing chains (some use internal rubber belts!!!)  held in place by insufficiently designed guides and tensioners driving all sorts of internal components like oil/fuel/water pumps buried deep internally into the engine, variable valve timing, variable stroke, very high-pressure requirements for oil and fuel with electronics like solenoids and sensors operating in the component lubricants, and they all have significant design structural problems from material and cost scrimping and lack of real longevity whether they are petrol/gas or diesel.

I have been looking at the various JLR newer models, and what incredible value can be had in say a Range Rover autobiography /SV/Dynamic/ that had cost 180k USD or far more, yet with a blown 5.0 liter engine, they are relatively worthless.  To rebuild one of those 3.0 or 5.0 engines, have a look at some of the teardown and rebuilds of any modern direct injection engine and you will quickly see the engines are all completely disposable designs; materials are skimped in the blocks to save manufacturing time, weight and maximize cooling, but when they break, they self-destruct. Labor alone to tear down and reassemble is often more that the OEM cost of the entire engine, and the factory does not provide rebuild kits.  What is a pound of engine webbing structural aluminum removed from a 600 bhp supercharged engine as an assembly or weight saving design on a 6000# weight vehicle?  Maybe if designed for the track that amounts to a fraction of a second of speed, but a road vehicle?!?

Lubricants:
Historically, the fact was, API / SAE lubricants designed for components were once supposed to increase the range of mechanical protections with new specifications as time went on, where today, a mechanical component may be designed only for one very narrow type of lubricant that was designed only for that unique application.

The API/ SAE "meets or exceeds" statements must be carefully dissected to understand exactly what the lubricant use range and components lubricants are approved, which may take significant research.

If you decide to use your "favorite brand" oil or coolant in a modern driveline component not certified for use in that narrow design, you might be unknowingly starting the self-destruction timer.

So, to answer the question for our old and very reliable vehicles, BEGIN with the Owner's Manual / Factory Manual specification for your lubricants in and on your components as they were designed by the manufacturer, and if that type of lubricant is not available, look and understand what and why it was replaced with a later API/SAE tested lubricant that "should" add increased protection in that application.
AVOID AT ALL COSTS, "my buddies or I uses this and swears by it..."  I typically do not trust my local parts shoppe counter person for lubricant recommendation unless that counter person was once a master mechanic or factory trained tech, that being rare.  There are reams of Technical Service Bulletins where the factory engineers got it wrong too, only discovered during or after warranty periods.
Lubrication is its own science, but if you read the specs, you will get the limitations and also the mechanics tales for snake oil.

Caveat Emptor ya'll.

Glenn a.k.a. StagByTriumph


** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sat May  9 09:23:18 2026
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2026 15:23:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Speedometer cable repair kits -- any experience?
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFDid5n=q-ENc0UkY+7wYnCjrBKsJ3Ys2xSBoRzAE4QXFQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFDid5n=q-ENc0UkY+7wYnCjrBKsJ3Ys2xSBoRzAE4QXFQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <505785902.173007.1778340198175@mail.yahoo.com>

 there is a guy, or was some time ago who would make custom cables.for me he built a toyota to triumph cable.do i need to try and find him again for you?
Franksouthern california

    On Friday, May 8, 2026 at 08:40:33 PM PDT, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 The 8' overdrive speedometer cable on my TR3B broke at the drive end a few months ago and I'm looking at replacement/repair options.
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-gHQ6r2K/0/Kw43kwPvCn3hvxVCzrPkczV9fbgmfGBnXBfxprNXV/X5/i-gHQ6r2K-X5.jpg
The silver-sheathed cables (the most authentic to the Smiths originals) formerly sold by TRF are out of stock and Albert reports his UK supplier went out of business unexpectedly, so with no alternative supplier they're not likely to come back anytime soon.
Moss sell a 96" cable, but the housing is black.? Certainly an option.
Napa sell speedometer cable repair kits, with various length universal-fit inner cables and a simple sort of staking tool to attach a fitting to one end.? The end fitting and staking tool are sold without the drive cable, as well.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6151798https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6151823
Has anyone used one of these?? How to they work?? It sorta looks like one cuts the cable to the right length and attaches the fitting, I'm guessing to the instrument end on our cars.? Is that right?? Are these a realistic repair option?
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
  
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sat May  9 10:21:25 2026
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2026 16:21:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] dizzy
Message-ID: <f24d6637fda440799771d08082e87b84@ranteer.com>

Looking for a used 41558 A for a backup.  Doesn't need to be cleaned up; just needs to be functional.  Don't need points, rotor, etc.
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sat May  9 13:24:38 2026
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2026 19:24:38 +0000
Subject: [TR] Speedometer cable repair kits -- any experience?
In-Reply-To: <505785902.173007.1778340198175@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAPK7CFDid5n=q-ENc0UkY+7wYnCjrBKsJ3Ys2xSBoRzAE4QXFQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <505785902.173007.1778340198175@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <07659a3ab1dc4a77b05bcc33986575ab@ranteer.com>

West valley will do that.  They made a cable for me connecting a British Ford 5 speed transmission to an MGA speedo.  Custom length and everything!

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Saturday, May 9, 2026 10:23 AM
To: Triumphs list <triumphs at autox.team.net>; Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Speedometer cable repair kits -- any experience?

there is a guy, or was some time ago who would make custom cables.
for me he built a toyota to triumph cable.
do i need to try and find him again for you?

Frank
southern california


On Friday, May 8, 2026 at 08:40:33 PM PDT, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com<mailto:don.hiscock at gmail.com>> wrote:


The 8' overdrive speedometer cable on my TR3B broke at the drive end a few months ago and I'm looking at replacement/repair options.

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-gHQ6r2K/0/Kw43kwPvCn3hvxVCzrPkczV9fbgmfGBnXBfxprNXV/X5/i-gHQ6r2K-X5.jpg

The silver-sheathed cables (the most authentic to the Smiths originals) formerly sold by TRF are out of stock and Albert reports his UK supplier went out of business unexpectedly, so with no alternative supplier they're not likely to come back anytime soon.

Moss sell a 96" cable, but the housing is black.  Certainly an option.

Napa sell speedometer cable repair kits, with various length universal-fit inner cables and a simple sort of staking tool to attach a fitting to one end.  The end fitting and staking tool are sold without the drive cable, as well.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6151798
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6151823

Has anyone used one of these?  How to they work?  It sorta looks like one cuts the cable to the right length and attaches the fitting, I'm guessing to the instrument end on our cars.  Is that right?  Are these a realistic repair option?

** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
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From johnbmacartney at gmx.com  Sat May  9 14:31:52 2026
From: johnbmacartney at gmx.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2026 21:31:52 +0100
Subject: [TR] Rear axle oil - overall lubricants and new designs
Message-ID: <A0C26FD1-9DF0-46E8-8B2B-FD93A452C1F9@gmx.com>

Sorry. What did I do wrong?

Jonmac

> On 9 May 2026, at 07:49, Mark Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:
> 
> For some reason this was flagged by Mailman.  No idea why.
> 
> mjb.
> 
> =========
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Macartney
> Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2026 3:30 PM
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Rear axle oil
> 
> Had an early night after spending the day sorting old Standard-Triumph handbooks (among lots of other stuff) and have just checked the grade for Standard Vanguard and TR3/3A as both used the same axle. Factory recommended an 85W90 GL4 type Hypoy as offered by Shell, BP, Castrol, Duckhams, Texaco. IOW, a hyper lube type with an ultra high resistance to shear. Does the stuff you have offer the same lubricity properties? Never heard of it myself but most modern oils are a complete mystery to me anyway. Still can?t get used to the family daily driver only being allowed a 0w20 full synthetic. Pours like water!
> 
> Jonmac
> 
> =========
> 
> Regarding the 0w20, I'd like to have a bit of a rant on today's mechanical designs.
> 
> When we take a look at the longevity of the supposed "high technology" direct injection engines of today and over the past say 10-15 years, it is woefully clear that these driveline designs are not lasting.  Sure, they provide performance and a lot of mpg per BHP per cc/cid, but all that tech designs have all sorts of problems.
> Might that be from too thin oil?  As a long time cross-discipline control system professional,  the lubricants  or use of improper spec lubricants may be a cause, but not entirely, as when you tear into these new tech engines, they are yes, mechanical marvels controlled by complex computer management, but also, mechanical nightmares more likely to self-destruct if a microparticle of contaminate invades the wrong internal spot, a sensor allows the wrong stuff to enter the engine somewhere or the coolant level drops because some plastic coolant manifold or connection has a weak spot and suddenly dumped all the coolant creating a high temp spike on the close tolerance components.
> 
> We love the new tech performance, but at what cost?
> 
> People slammed the Triumph Stag 2997 CC OHC V8 for its design "flaws" but when I dive into some of these newer engines there are strikingly similar designs copied, I have seen across many other engine manufacturers including GM, Mercedes, Toyota, Ford, JLR and others.  One example is timing chains, OHC design, etc.  Today's OHC engines, all of them, have issues with timing chain tensioners, guides, oil pumps which are manifested from engine designs over 75 years ago but cost cut even more and designed to very narrow performance limits and very close tolerance requirements.
> 
> When I look at these newer high-performance engines, they all appear to have the same old issues: multiple simplex roller timing chains (some use internal rubber belts!!!)  held in place by insufficiently designed guides and tensioners driving all sorts of internal components like oil/fuel/water pumps buried deep internally into the engine, variable valve timing, variable stroke, very high-pressure requirements for oil and fuel with electronics like solenoids and sensors operating in the component lubricants, and they all have significant design structural problems from material and cost scrimping and lack of real longevity whether they are petrol/gas or diesel.
> 
> I have been looking at the various JLR newer models, and what incredible value can be had in say a Range Rover autobiography /SV/Dynamic/ that had cost 180k USD or far more, yet with a blown 5.0 liter engine, they are relatively worthless.  To rebuild one of those 3.0 or 5.0 engines, have a look at some of the teardown and rebuilds of any modern direct injection engine and you will quickly see the engines are all completely disposable designs; materials are skimped in the blocks to save manufacturing time, weight and maximize cooling, but when they break, they self-destruct. Labor alone to tear down and reassemble is often more that the OEM cost of the entire engine, and the factory does not provide rebuild kits.  What is a pound of engine webbing structural aluminum removed from a 600 bhp supercharged engine as an assembly or weight saving design on a 6000# weight vehicle?  Maybe if designed for the track that amounts to a fraction of a second of speed, but a road vehicle?!?
> 
> Lubricants:
> Historically, the fact was, API / SAE lubricants designed for components were once supposed to increase the range of mechanical protections with new specifications as time went on, where today, a mechanical component may be designed only for one very narrow type of lubricant that was designed only for that unique application.
> 
> The API/ SAE "meets or exceeds" statements must be carefully dissected to understand exactly what the lubricant use range and components lubricants are approved, which may take significant research.
> 
> If you decide to use your "favorite brand" oil or coolant in a modern driveline component not certified for use in that narrow design, you might be unknowingly starting the self-destruction timer.
> 
> So, to answer the question for our old and very reliable vehicles, BEGIN with the Owner's Manual / Factory Manual specification for your lubricants in and on your components as they were designed by the manufacturer, and if that type of lubricant is not available, look and understand what and why it was replaced with a later API/SAE tested lubricant that "should" add increased protection in that application.
> AVOID AT ALL COSTS, "my buddies or I uses this and swears by it..."  I typically do not trust my local parts shoppe counter person for lubricant recommendation unless that counter person was once a master mechanic or factory trained tech, that being rare.  There are reams of Technical Service Bulletins where the factory engineers got it wrong too, only discovered during or after warranty periods.
> Lubrication is its own science, but if you read the specs, you will get the limitations and also the mechanics tales for snake oil.
> 
> Caveat Emptor ya'll.
> 
> Glenn a.k.a. StagByTriumph
> 
> 
> 


From mark at bradakis.com  Sat May  9 15:14:12 2026
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2026 15:14:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] Rear axle oil - overall lubricants and new designs
In-Reply-To: <A0C26FD1-9DF0-46E8-8B2B-FD93A452C1F9@gmx.com>
References: <A0C26FD1-9DF0-46E8-8B2B-FD93A452C1F9@gmx.com>
Message-ID: <e8e347f3-7274-46b9-83bf-01e8a76849d6@bradakis.com>

On 5/9/26 2:31 PM, John Macartney wrote:
> Sorry. What did I do wrong?
> 

Your message went through just fine.  It was Glenn's reply that got hung 
up for some unknown reason.

mjb.


From grandfatherjim at gmail.com  Sun May 10 12:39:30 2026
From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2026 14:39:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 19, Issue 88
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1778436004.326.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1778436004.326.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAA43NTsvRz-oytx0OhKj7PJOTHV7YTppnrvb+O7GzCnYuUTO6g@mail.gmail.com>

Jonmac wrote:
=============
Sorry. What did I do wrong?

Jonmac
==================
- you couched it in a plethora of phraseology, but I read between the
lines: you dissed my Toyota.


On Sun, May 10, 2026, 2:11 p.m. <triumphs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
>         triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>         triumphs-request at autox.team.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>         triumphs-owner at autox.team.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: Speedometer cable repair kits -- any experience?
>       (dave northrup)
>    2. Re: Rear axle oil - overall lubricants and new designs
>       (John Macartney)
>    3. Re: Rear axle oil - overall lubricants and new designs
>       (Mark Bradakis)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 9 May 2026 19:24:38 +0000
> From: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>, Triumphs list
>         <triumphs at autox.team.net>, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Speedometer cable repair kits -- any experience?
> Message-ID: <07659a3ab1dc4a77b05bcc33986575ab at ranteer.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> West valley will do that.  They made a cable for me connecting a British
> Ford 5 speed transmission to an MGA speedo.  Custom length and everything!
>
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
> Sent: Saturday, May 9, 2026 10:23 AM
> To: Triumphs list <triumphs at autox.team.net>; Don Hiscock <
> don.hiscock at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Speedometer cable repair kits -- any experience?
>
> there is a guy, or was some time ago who would make custom cables.
> for me he built a toyota to triumph cable.
> do i need to try and find him again for you?
>
> Frank
> southern california
>
>
> On Friday, May 8, 2026 at 08:40:33 PM PDT, Don Hiscock <
> don.hiscock at gmail.com<mailto:don.hiscock at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>
> The 8' overdrive speedometer cable on my TR3B broke at the drive end a few
> months ago and I'm looking at replacement/repair options.
>
>
> https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-gHQ6r2K/0/Kw43kwPvCn3hvxVCzrPkczV9fbgmfGBnXBfxprNXV/X5/i-gHQ6r2K-X5.jpg
>
> The silver-sheathed cables (the most authentic to the Smiths originals)
> formerly sold by TRF are out of stock and Albert reports his UK supplier
> went out of business unexpectedly, so with no alternative supplier they're
> not likely to come back anytime soon.
>
> Moss sell a 96" cable, but the housing is black.  Certainly an option.
>
> Napa sell speedometer cable repair kits, with various length universal-fit
> inner cables and a simple sort of staking tool to attach a fitting to one
> end.  The end fitting and staking tool are sold without the drive cable, as
> well.
>
> https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6151798
> https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6151823
>
> Has anyone used one of these?  How to they work?  It sorta looks like one
> cuts the cable to the right length and attaches the fitting, I'm guessing
> to the instrument end on our cars.  Is that right?  Are these a realistic
> repair option?
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20260509/e7d56c94/attachment-0001.htm
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 9 May 2026 21:31:52 +0100
> From: John Macartney <johnbmacartney at gmx.com>
> To: Mark Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Rear axle oil - overall lubricants and new designs
> Message-ID: <A0C26FD1-9DF0-46E8-8B2B-FD93A452C1F9 at gmx.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=utf-8
>
> Sorry. What did I do wrong?
>
> Jonmac
>
> > On 9 May 2026, at 07:49, Mark Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:
> >
> > For some reason this was flagged by Mailman.  No idea why.
> >
> > mjb.
> >
> > =========
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John
> Macartney
> > Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2026 3:30 PM
> > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [TR] Rear axle oil
> >
> > Had an early night after spending the day sorting old Standard-Triumph
> handbooks (among lots of other stuff) and have just checked the grade for
> Standard Vanguard and TR3/3A as both used the same axle. Factory
> recommended an 85W90 GL4 type Hypoy as offered by Shell, BP, Castrol,
> Duckhams, Texaco. IOW, a hyper lube type with an ultra high resistance to
> shear. Does the stuff you have offer the same lubricity properties? Never
> heard of it myself but most modern oils are a complete mystery to me
> anyway. Still can?t get used to the family daily driver only being allowed
> a 0w20 full synthetic. Pours like water!
> >
> > Jonmac
> >
> > =========
> >
> > Regarding the 0w20, I'd like to have a bit of a rant on today's
> mechanical designs.
> >
> > When we take a look at the longevity of the supposed "high technology"
> direct injection engines of today and over the past say 10-15 years, it is
> woefully clear that these driveline designs are not lasting.  Sure, they
> provide performance and a lot of mpg per BHP per cc/cid, but all that tech
> designs have all sorts of problems.
> > Might that be from too thin oil?  As a long time cross-discipline
> control system professional,  the lubricants  or use of improper spec
> lubricants may be a cause, but not entirely, as when you tear into these
> new tech engines, they are yes, mechanical marvels controlled by complex
> computer management, but also, mechanical nightmares more likely to
> self-destruct if a microparticle of contaminate invades the wrong internal
> spot, a sensor allows the wrong stuff to enter the engine somewhere or the
> coolant level drops because some plastic coolant manifold or connection has
> a weak spot and suddenly dumped all the coolant creating a high temp spike
> on the close tolerance components.
> >
> > We love the new tech performance, but at what cost?
> >
> > People slammed the Triumph Stag 2997 CC OHC V8 for its design "flaws"
> but when I dive into some of these newer engines there are strikingly
> similar designs copied, I have seen across many other engine manufacturers
> including GM, Mercedes, Toyota, Ford, JLR and others.  One example is
> timing chains, OHC design, etc.  Today's OHC engines, all of them, have
> issues with timing chain tensioners, guides, oil pumps which are manifested
> from engine designs over 75 years ago but cost cut even more and designed
> to very narrow performance limits and very close tolerance requirements.
> >
> > When I look at these newer high-performance engines, they all appear to
> have the same old issues: multiple simplex roller timing chains (some use
> internal rubber belts!!!)  held in place by insufficiently designed guides
> and tensioners driving all sorts of internal components like oil/fuel/water
> pumps buried deep internally into the engine, variable valve timing,
> variable stroke, very high-pressure requirements for oil and fuel with
> electronics like solenoids and sensors operating in the component
> lubricants, and they all have significant design structural problems from
> material and cost scrimping and lack of real longevity whether they are
> petrol/gas or diesel.
> >
> > I have been looking at the various JLR newer models, and what incredible
> value can be had in say a Range Rover autobiography /SV/Dynamic/ that had
> cost 180k USD or far more, yet with a blown 5.0 liter engine, they are
> relatively worthless.  To rebuild one of those 3.0 or 5.0 engines, have a
> look at some of the teardown and rebuilds of any modern direct injection
> engine and you will quickly see the engines are all completely disposable
> designs; materials are skimped in the blocks to save manufacturing time,
> weight and maximize cooling, but when they break, they self-destruct. Labor
> alone to tear down and reassemble is often more that the OEM cost of the
> entire engine, and the factory does not provide rebuild kits.  What is a
> pound of engine webbing structural aluminum removed from a 600 bhp
> supercharged engine as an assembly or weight saving design on a 6000#
> weight vehicle?  Maybe if designed for the track that amounts to a fraction
> of a second of speed, but a road vehicle?!?
> >
> > Lubricants:
> > Historically, the fact was, API / SAE lubricants designed for components
> were once supposed to increase the range of mechanical protections with new
> specifications as time went on, where today, a mechanical component may be
> designed only for one very narrow type of lubricant that was designed only
> for that unique application.
> >
> > The API/ SAE "meets or exceeds" statements must be carefully dissected
> to understand exactly what the lubricant use range and components
> lubricants are approved, which may take significant research.
> >
> > If you decide to use your "favorite brand" oil or coolant in a modern
> driveline component not certified for use in that narrow design, you might
> be unknowingly starting the self-destruction timer.
> >
> > So, to answer the question for our old and very reliable vehicles, BEGIN
> with the Owner's Manual / Factory Manual specification for your lubricants
> in and on your components as they were designed by the manufacturer, and if
> that type of lubricant is not available, look and understand what and why
> it was replaced with a later API/SAE tested lubricant that "should" add
> increased protection in that application.
> > AVOID AT ALL COSTS, "my buddies or I uses this and swears by it..."  I
> typically do not trust my local parts shoppe counter person for lubricant
> recommendation unless that counter person was once a master mechanic or
> factory trained tech, that being rare.  There are reams of Technical
> Service Bulletins where the factory engineers got it wrong too, only
> discovered during or after warranty periods.
> > Lubrication is its own science, but if you read the specs, you will get
> the limitations and also the mechanics tales for snake oil.
> >
> > Caveat Emptor ya'll.
> >
> > Glenn a.k.a. StagByTriumph
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 9 May 2026 15:14:12 -0600
> From: Mark Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Rear axle oil - overall lubricants and new designs
> Message-ID: <e8e347f3-7274-46b9-83bf-01e8a76849d6 at bradakis.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
>
> On 5/9/26 2:31 PM, John Macartney wrote:
> > Sorry. What did I do wrong?
> >
>
> Your message went through just fine.  It was Glenn's reply that got hung
> up for some unknown reason.
>
> mjb.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 19, Issue 88
> ****************************************
>
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From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Sun May 10 14:34:37 2026
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2026 14:34:37 -0600
Subject: [TR] Speedometer cable repair kits -- any experience?
In-Reply-To: <505785902.173007.1778340198175@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAPK7CFDid5n=q-ENc0UkY+7wYnCjrBKsJ3Ys2xSBoRzAE4QXFQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <505785902.173007.1778340198175@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFB1Ggq9ru9+wwgod8TSBSqgsKJ7jjhOud=xZEt1_ScoUw@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks, Frank.  No need to find the guy for me, but he sounds like a
connection that others on the list might benefit from knowing about.

On Sat, May 9, 2026 at 9:23?AM Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> there is a guy, or was some time ago who would make custom cables.
> for me he built a toyota to triumph cable.
> do i need to try and find him again for you?
>
> Frank
> southern california
>
>
> On Friday, May 8, 2026 at 08:40:33 PM PDT, Don Hiscock <
> don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> The 8' overdrive speedometer cable on my TR3B broke at the drive end a few
> months ago and I'm looking at replacement/repair options.
>
>
> https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-gHQ6r2K/0/Kw43kwPvCn3hvxVCzrPkczV9fbgmfGBnXBfxprNXV/X5/i-gHQ6r2K-X5.jpg
>
> The silver-sheathed cables (the most authentic to the Smiths originals)
> formerly sold by TRF are out of stock and Albert reports his UK supplier
> went out of business unexpectedly, so with no alternative supplier they're
> not likely to come back anytime soon.
>
> Moss sell a 96" cable, but the housing is black.  Certainly an option.
>
> Napa sell speedometer cable repair kits, with various length universal-fit
> inner cables and a simple sort of staking tool to attach a fitting to one
> end.  The end fitting and staking tool are sold without the drive cable, as
> well.
>
> https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6151798
> https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6151823
>
> Has anyone used one of these?  How to they work?  It sorta looks like one
> cuts the cable to the right length and attaches the fitting, I'm guessing
> to the instrument end on our cars.  Is that right?  Are these a realistic
> repair option?
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
>
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