[TR] Is removing the TR4 front plate in situ possible?

[DAVE HOGYE]

Hi Jim,
I think I understand the situation.  I found that the engine was easier to remove or drop into place on the frame, if one mount was bolted the plate and the other to the frame.  Then the angle of the studs on the top side of the mounts did not interfere as they would if both mounts were secured to the frame.  I think this could work for just removing the front plate.  Remove one side from the frame and the other from the plate depending on access. 
Dave H. 

> On 07/07/2026 12:09 PM PDT Allen Hess <allen.k.hess at gmail.com> wrote:
>  
>  
> I don’t have experience with this scenario but I think you should look at putting the frame on blocks and taking the wheels off. Then I think the motor mount nuts will be accessible from the rear. A Gearwrench ratchet or long handled wrench may be desirable. 
> Good luck,
> Allen’63 4 since ’67
> 
> 
> > On Jul 6, 2026, at 5:07 PM, J.C. Hassall <jhassall at gmail.com> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> 
> >  
> > I've discovered that the front plate gasket leaks.  I've removed the radiator, alternator and stripped all the bits stripped off the front of the engine.  My plan was to loosen both ends of both engine mounts and raise the engine in situ with a jack (don't have a hoist anymore), replace the plate and declare victory.  Ha!  I have the car on QuickJacks (no plug, but they're great!), but have hit a wall.  I just can't access the bottom nuts on either engine mount.  I thought I could loosen the mounts enough to lift the engine, but with the mounts rigidly mounted to the frame, the angle of the mount bolts works against me.  Has anyone done this before?  I could probably force removal but reinstallation with the mounts immovable would be non-starter, I think.
> >  
> > Haaaalp!
> > --
> > jim  W4BEA 
> > 
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