From mtgaines at presby.edu Thu Aug 6 13:39:27 2026 From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines) Date: Thu, 06 Aug 2026 19:39:27 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 rear brake cylinder shims--question Message-ID: I have recently finished installation of the RATCO cross member that serves as the rear diff support and the mounting plate for the lever shocks. The project was long and a bit tedious, but I am very happy with the result. However, when I was reassembling the hubs to the aluminum trailing arms I found that a couple of the six studs on each TA had stripped the holes or their own threads when the studs came out with the nyloc nuts. I decided to use the Patton-Machine TARK-KS guide kit for drilling and tapping the trailing arms for Keenserts. That went extremely well, and I now feel confident that the hubs (and wheels!) are securely mounted to the new studs that are in turn secure in the Keenserts. Today I thought I was going to simply adjust the brakes, so I got out my official shop manual to refresh my memory. Now I feel pretty foolish, so I am going to have to ask for help. The diagram of the brake cylinder shim sequence in the manual does not agree with the instructions. I am pretty sure that the instructions are right and my earlier installation based on the diagram and a Google AI query is wrong, but I would like some corroboration. The manual says: 1) The thin spring(y) shim with 2 tabs at the open end slides into the cylinder's groove first, from the front side (where the hand brake lever is), against the back of the backplate with the tabs pointing out. 2) The thicker flat locking shim slides in from the opposite direction until the tabs from the spring shim fit into the slots in the locking shim. 3) The shorter flat spacing shim slides in from the front on top of the other shims. Somehow I have misplaced one of these shims--another problem to deal with! Is that correct? I had reversed the first two shims. If anyone has an interest in or questions about the the RATCO installation or the Patton-Machine kit, I would be happy to provide details. Tim -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Aug 6 18:36:08 2026 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (EDWARD WOODS) Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2026 20:36:08 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 rear brake cylinder shims--question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <992055144.17204.1786062968207@connect.xfinity.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mtgaines at presby.edu Thu Aug 6 20:56:14 2026 From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines) Date: Fri, 07 Aug 2026 02:56:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 rear brake cylinder shims--question In-Reply-To: <992055144.17204.1786062968207@connect.xfinity.com> References: <992055144.17204.1786062968207@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: That makes a lot of sense! Is that procedure widely known? I sure haven't come across it. Thanks Ed. Tim ------ Original Message ------ >From "EDWARD WOODS" To "Tim Gaines" ; "Triumphs" Date 8/6/2026 8:36:08 PM Subject Re: [TR] TR6 rear brake cylinder shims--question >Tim, > >Well, you have them in the right position, but my order of assembly >differs. Position the wheel cylinder on the backing plate. Install the >top and bottom plates. Install the handbrake lever. Drive the middle >plate into place over the tabs of the bottom plates. Fit the rubber >dust cover. Girling brake grease eases things along. > > >Ed >>On 08/06/2026 3:39 PM EDT Tim Gaines wrote: >> >> >>I have recently finished installation of the RATCO cross member that >>serves as the rear diff support and the mounting plate for the lever >>shocks. The project was long and a bit tedious, but I am very happy >>with the result. However, when I was reassembling the hubs to the >>aluminum trailing arms I found that a couple of the six studs on each >>TA had stripped the holes or their own threads when the studs came out >>with the nyloc nuts. I decided to use the Patton-Machine TARK-KS guide >>kit for drilling and tapping the trailing arms for Keenserts. That >>went extremely well, and I now feel confident that the hubs (and >>wheels!) are securely mounted to the new studs that are in turn secure >>in the Keenserts. >> >>Today I thought I was going to simply adjust the brakes, so I got out >>my official shop manual to refresh my memory. Now I feel pretty >>foolish, so I am going to have to ask for help. The diagram of the >>brake cylinder shim sequence in the manual does not agree with the >>instructions. I am pretty sure that the instructions are right and my >>earlier installation based on the diagram and a Google AI query is >>wrong, but I would like some corroboration. >> >>The manual says: >>1) The thin spring(y) shim with 2 tabs at the open end slides into the >>cylinder's groove first, from the front side (where the hand brake >>lever is), against the back of the backplate with the tabs pointing >>out. >>2) The thicker flat locking shim slides in from the opposite direction >>until the tabs from the spring shim fit into the slots in the locking >>shim. >>3) The shorter flat spacing shim slides in from the front on top of >>the other shims. Somehow I have misplaced one of these shims--another >>problem to deal with! >> >>Is that correct? I had reversed the first two shims. >> >>If anyone has an interest in or questions about the the RATCO >>installation or the Patton-Machine kit, I would be happy to provide >>details. >> >>Tim >> >> >>Virus-free.www.avast.com >> >>** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >>http://www.team.net/archive >> >>Unsubscribe/Manage: >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: