From davgil at aol.com Wed Mar 1 13:42:52 2023 From: davgil at aol.com (DAVID GILL) Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2023 15:42:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] MRT-Worldwide References: <3B5A065F-D2C4-4C3D-825B-E20BC7279A38.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <3B5A065F-D2C4-4C3D-825B-E20BC7279A38@aol.com> I am trying to purchase an item from London. The seller wants to use an escrow service. They have suggested MRT-Worldwide. I like their process, that is that the seller delivers the part to them. They inspect it and confirm it is as represented. I would send the money to them to hold. The sale item would be delivered to me for a 10 day inspection. If I keep the item, the seller is paid. If not, I return it and if it is in the same condition, my money is refunded. Is anyone familiar with this company? Their website is MRT-Worldwide.com. Sent from my iPhone From johnbmacartney at gmx.com Thu Mar 2 15:26:15 2023 From: johnbmacartney at gmx.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2023 22:26:15 +0000 Subject: [TR] MRT-International Message-ID: David, I?m UK based and know a lot about U.K. business law and best practice. I?ve looked at this company?s website and I?m a bit cautious for what it doesn?t tell me. I?ll elaborate. It?s becoming more common for U.K. registered businesses to have a Company number and sales tax reference on their websites. These numbers allow anyone to access a place called Companies House via a U.K. GOVERNMENT portal and look up the company that interests them. Info you can obtain shows annual turnover, the company taxation status and whether they been naughty boys and not got an acceptable track record on sales tax payments. You can do the search using the Company number or typing in the company name. As I don?t have a Company number I could only search by typing in the name in various formats and I got a zero response to all my attempts. Looking at their U.K. ADDRESSES suggests the business has some substance in monetary terms as I know the locations in question. That didn?t leave me feeling very comfortable but maybe I?m just suspicious? To be in their line of business, I?d concentrate my U.K. office somewhere very close to a major seaport and international airport, so that means London. Yes, they do have an office there but not where I?d locate it. Looking at the Rogues Gallery of people running this outfit, most of them appear to be Turkish or certainly East European. That doesn?t make me feel too comfortable either and don?t anyone try to play the racism card! :) Then we look at their other operations and it appears the only other place where they have an office is Berlin!!!!! Ye gods, every business person in Europe knows the best place to ship anything by air or sea and deal with money at the same time is Rotterdam in Holland - not bloody Berlin! Let?s face it, the Dutch are ace at international business, always have been and are continually running circles round the Brits, Germans, French and Italians. While I can?t say I?ve found anything to MRTs discredit they?re making it very difficult for anyone to learn more about them. Is there anything further I might do to help you in your dilemma? Cheers, Jonmac From triumphstag at gmail.com Mon Mar 6 11:47:00 2023 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2023 10:47:00 -0800 Subject: [TR] Is this symptom I'm getting indicative of a bad front wheel bearing? In-Reply-To: <004c01d94d12$7ef4e8f0$7cdebad0$@roadrunner.com> References: <007501d94b12$85575d10$90061730$@charter.net> <1907341679.2108090.1677591354069@mail.yahoo.com> <003f01d94b81$d594e670$80beb350$@charter.net> <001a01d94b9d$2b777ce0$826676a0$@charter.net> <004c01d94d12$7ef4e8f0$7cdebad0$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: Just an update. I was able to take a look at the car this weekend. I jacked up the front of the car. Someone suggested that I rotate the wheel and see if the spring vibrates. I tried this but nothing. I did, however, tighten up the right hand hub. The Stag's ROM says to tighten the nut to 5 lbf ft and undo the nut one flat and insert a split/cotter pin. I did this, but after assembly I could feel a wobble. I then tightened to 5 lbf ft and then slacked off the nut until I could insert the pin. The hub rotates. At the same time, I swapped out the front wheels and replaced them with a spare set. I'm yet to test drive the car. 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URL: From spitlist at cox.net Mon Mar 6 18:02:48 2023 From: spitlist at cox.net (JOE CURRY) Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2023 20:02:48 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Fwd=3A_1935_Voisin_C25_A=C3=A9rodyne_wins_Best_in?= =?utf-8?q?_Show_at_The_Amelia_2023?= In-Reply-To: <0e32c785aa03c0e6cb578e7c6.b03faf40d2.20230306160933.6f6aacc772.22f4f94e@mail204.atl61.mcsv.net> References: <0e32c785aa03c0e6cb578e7c6.b03faf40d2.20230306160933.6f6aacc772.22f4f94e@mail204.atl61.mcsv.net> Message-ID: <1493334542.771862.1678150969010@myemail.cox.net> > 1935 Voisin C25 A?rodyne wins Best in Show at The Amelia 2023---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Classic Motorsports > To: =?utf-8?Q??= > Date: March 6, 2023 at 11:09 AM > Subject: 1935 Voisin C25 A?rodyne wins Best in Show at The Amelia 2023 > > Plus more stories from Classic Motorsports. > > View this email in your browser https://us20.campaign-archive.com/?e=b03faf40d2&u=0e32c785aa03c0e6cb578e7c6&id=6f6aacc772 > EVENTS https://classicmotorsports.us20.list-manage.com/track/click?u=0e32c785aa03c0e6cb578e7c6&id=ae7c1932ae&e=b03faf40d2 | ROAD TOURS https://classicmotorsports.us20.list-manage.com/track/click?u=0e32c785aa03c0e6cb578e7c6&id=688e34c806&e=b03faf40d2 | ARTICLES https://classicmotorsports.us20.list-manage.com/track/click?u=0e32c785aa03c0e6cb578e7c6&id=305d9df2fe&e=b03faf40d2 | CARS FOR SALE https://classicmotorsports.us20.list-manage.com/track/click?u=0e32c785aa03c0e6cb578e7c6&id=66c20cc883&e=b03faf40d2 | SUBSCRIBER PORTAL https://classicmotorsports.us20.list-manage.com/track/click?u=0e32c785aa03c0e6cb578e7c6&id=6767c19cda&e=b03faf40d2 > Daily Newsletter > https://classicmotorsports.us20.list-manage.com/track/click?u=0e32c785aa03c0e6cb578e7c6&id=caf758661e&e=b03faf40d2 > > 1935 Voisin C25 A?rodyne wins Best in Show at The Amelia 2023 https://classicmotorsports.us20.list-manage.com/track/click?u=0e32c785aa03c0e6cb578e7c6&id=dad69f7f24&e=b03faf40d2 > > Meet the Best in Show winner of the 2023 Amelia Concours d'Elegance, a 1935 Voisin C25 A?rodyne. > Read in browser ? https://classicmotorsports.us20.list-manage.com/track/click?u=0e32c785aa03c0e6cb578e7c6&id=1697aca1e4&e=b03faf40d2 > > > The key advice from Peter Brock that made the Daytona Cobra Coupe a Ferrari-beater https://classicmotorsports.us20.list-manage.com/track/click?u=0e32c785aa03c0e6cb578e7c6&id=9becec7e04&e=b03faf40d2 > > A little bit of Peter Brock?s aero magic turned the upright Cobra into a winner at Le Mans and around the world. > Read in browser ? https://classicmotorsports.us20.list-manage.com/track/click?u=0e32c785aa03c0e6cb578e7c6&id=889b34b2fe&e=b03faf40d2 > > > Are today's GT3 competition machines tomorrow's vintage racers? https://classicmotorsports.us20.list-manage.com/track/click?u=0e32c785aa03c0e6cb578e7c6&id=92aa910057&e=b03faf40d2 > > Too new to be historic racers? 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URL: From johnbmacartney at gmx.com Tue Mar 7 15:22:13 2023 From: johnbmacartney at gmx.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2023 22:22:13 +0000 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 16, Issue 33 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Re the Classic Motorsports article on the TR6, personally Old Chap, one has a predeliction for a TR5. Pressure relief valve ?warble? on cold start notwithstanding, that particular variant was the very pinnacle of the TR range in every respect. A veritable tragedy so few were made over a too short period. As an aside, watching the video, that bloke in the driving seat is headed for a heart attack and a very large ?casket? if he doesn?t lose some weight! Jonmac > On 7 Mar 2023, at 19:00, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to > triumphs at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > triumphs-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > triumphs-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." > Today's Topics: > > 1. Fwd: 1935 Voisin C25 A?rodyne wins Best in Show at The Amelia > 2023 (JOE CURRY) > > _______________________________________________ > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Mar 10 12:15:43 2023 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2023 13:15:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fwd: You reported a profile for pretending to be your friend In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <984674c9-363a-be53-0ee8-ee0360890f37@tonydrews.com> FYI. Love, Tony -------- Forwarded Message -------- Subject: You reported a profile for pretending to be your friend Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2023 10:31:39 -0800 From: Facebook Reply-To: Facebook To: tony at tonydrews.com Hi Tony, Thanks for letting us know about someone impersonating your friend on Facebook. Reports like yours are an important part of keeping Facebook a safe and welcoming community. Since this is happening to your friend, we're going to close your report and follow up with your friend directly once we've reviewed the account. Thanks again, The Facebook Team -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Mar 10 13:07:20 2023 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2023 20:07:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Fwd: You reported a profile for pretending to be your friend In-Reply-To: <984674c9-363a-be53-0ee8-ee0360890f37@tonydrews.com> References: <984674c9-363a-be53-0ee8-ee0360890f37@tonydrews.com> Message-ID: <412618412.1254784.1678478840373@mail.yahoo.com> ?????? On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 11:52:49 AM PST, Tony Drews wrote: FYI. Love, Tony -------- Forwarded Message -------- | Subject: | You reported a profile for pretending to be your friend | | Date: | Fri, 10 Mar 2023 10:31:39 -0800 | | From: | Facebook | | Reply-To: | Facebook | | To: | tony at tonydrews.com | Hi Tony, Thanks for letting us know about someone impersonating your friend on Facebook. Reports like yours are an important part of keeping Facebook a safe and welcoming community. Since this is happening to your friend, we're going to close your report and follow up with your friend directly once we've reviewed the account. Thanks again, The Facebook Team ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Mar 10 13:09:36 2023 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2023 14:09:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fwd: You reported a profile for pretending to be your friend In-Reply-To: <984674c9-363a-be53-0ee8-ee0360890f37@tonydrews.com> References: <984674c9-363a-be53-0ee8-ee0360890f37@tonydrews.com> Message-ID: <80953073-f53f-0a0b-42a8-dd6affda8aae@tonydrews.com> Crap, wrong e-mail, ignore... - Tony On 3/10/2023 1:15 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > FYI. > > Love, Tony > > -------- Forwarded Message -------- > Subject: You reported a profile for pretending to be your friend > Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2023 10:31:39 -0800 > From: Facebook > Reply-To: Facebook > To: tony at tonydrews.com > > > > Hi Tony, > > Thanks for letting us know about someone impersonating your friend on > Facebook. Reports like yours are an important part of keeping Facebook > a safe and welcoming community. > > Since this is happening to your friend, we're going to close your > report and follow up with your friend directly once we've reviewed the > account. > Thanks again, > The Facebook Team > > > **triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Mar 10 14:41:22 2023 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2023 15:41:22 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fwd: You reported a profile for pretending to be your friend In-Reply-To: <412618412.1254784.1678478840373@mail.yahoo.com> References: <984674c9-363a-be53-0ee8-ee0360890f37@tonydrews.com> <412618412.1254784.1678478840373@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9ae51384-5ea6-5507-8076-f2be57921ef8@tonydrews.com> Fat fingered an address, please ignore. Regards, Tony Drews On 3/10/2023 2:07 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > ?????? > > > > > On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 11:52:49 AM PST, Tony Drews > wrote: > > > FYI. > > Love, Tony > > -------- Forwarded Message -------- > Subject: You reported a profile for pretending to be your friend > Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2023 10:31:39 -0800 > From: Facebook > > Reply-To: Facebook > > To: tony at tonydrews.com > > > > Hi Tony, > > Thanks for letting us know about someone impersonating your friend on > Facebook. Reports like yours are an important part of keeping Facebook > a safe and welcoming community. > > Since this is happening to your friend, we're going to close your > report and follow up with your friend directly once we've reviewed the > account. > Thanks again, > The Facebook Team > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Tue Mar 14 07:39:41 2023 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2023 08:39:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR Stacking References: Message-ID: Has anyone installed a 4-post lift in a single car garage? Looking to stack my TR3, and another unnamed small roadster. Can you do it in an 8-foot ceiling? What is the needed footprint of the lift? Lift recommendations? Bill B TS30800L ?Shoot low sheriff, she?s riding a shetland? ?B.Wills From momulle at yahoo.com Tue Mar 14 15:29:54 2023 From: momulle at yahoo.com (Michael Muller) Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2023 17:29:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stacking In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <476C9725-9E76-42BA-B820-B3D3C0112CF4@yahoo.com> I have a Bendpack 4-post lift and an 8? ceiling. Not ideal - I moved the lift from our previous house with a 12? ceiling. I put one car on top, and roll the Triumph, backwards, up to the windscreen, i.e. boot end doors under the lift, engine sticking out. In our case, the upper car is ?modern? (2001 TT). An LBC might be shorter and allow both cars?? The limiting factors are (1) overall height and car height - obvious, but also (2) the lift has finite stops about 6-8? apart, and the lift needs to go UP before you can lower a car. So you can?t raise all the way to the ceiling. (And: nerves get in the way? do you go one click higher? ?? Knowing that lowering without upward space will be difficult, at best!) However: even in tight spaces, having a lift is fantastic. Good luck! Mike > > Message: 1 > Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2023 08:39:41 -0500 > From: bill beecher > To: Randall > Subject: [TR] TR Stacking > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > Has anyone installed a 4-post lift in a single car garage? Looking to stack my TR3, and another unnamed small roadster. > Can you do it in an 8-foot ceiling? > What is the needed footprint of the lift? Lift recommendations? > > Bill B > TS30800L > > ?Shoot low sheriff, she?s riding a shetland? ?B.Wills From smithw1 at optonline.net Tue Mar 14 16:01:32 2023 From: smithw1 at optonline.net (William Smith) Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2023 18:01:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR Stacking Message-ID: <6407E3400222E6BD@altprdrgo01.altice.prod.msg.synchronoss.net> (added by postmaster@optonline.net) Don't think 8 ft will do it.? Considering each car is probably at least 4' high (don't forget the windshield height), plus the thickness of the runways (about 5 or 6 inches), I don't think you'd be able to get them both in? unless you remove the windshields.Bill Smith?72 TR680 TR7Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jeremiah at curryclan.net Tue Mar 14 16:19:33 2023 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (jeremiah at curryclan.net) Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2023 16:19:33 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR Stacking In-Reply-To: <6407E3400222E6BD@altprdrgo01.altice.prod.msg.synchronoss.net> (added by postmaster@optonline.net) References: <6407E3400222E6BD@altprdrgo01.altice.prod.msg.synchronoss.net> (added by postmaster@optonline.net) Message-ID: <046a01d956c3$0e665820$2b330860$@curryclan.net> I have a 2 post MaxJax lift and about 8? and I haven?t been able to put my lowered 93 MR2 under my 308 GT8 Dino or visa/versa. They are a few feet too tall.?.but I am hoping the TR3 will fit (can?t check yet as it is at my parents house) While the other cars are small the TR3 is in it?sown league, It is a very short car. From: Triumphs On Behalf Of William Smith Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2023 4:02 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] TR Stacking Don't think 8 ft will do it. Considering each car is probably at least 4' high (don't forget the windshield height), plus the thickness of the runways (about 5 or 6 inches), I don't think you'd be able to get them both in unless you remove the windshields. Bill Smith 72 TR6 80 TR7 Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From grglmn at gmail.com Tue Mar 14 19:15:50 2023 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2023 20:15:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR Stacking In-Reply-To: <046a01d956c3$0e665820$2b330860$@curryclan.net> References: <6407E3400222E6BD@altprdrgo01.altice.prod.msg.synchronoss.net> <046a01d956c3$0e665820$2b330860$@curryclan.net> Message-ID: I have a TR250 (lowered about an inch between tires and suspension) and a Porsche 924. Both are about 4' tall. I have a 4 post lift and 9.75 foot ceiling. From the highest I can get it the bottom of the lift is about a foot above the other car. I think you could get by with 9' or maybe a little less with two four foot cars. How easy is it to pull a TR3 windscreen? That might get you there. Maybe swap out for a Lotus Europa and a Healey 100 (fold down screen). That would get you there too! Lastly is it space under a fixed roof (like a garage under a room in the house) or are there rafters or trusses--if the latter you can often re-engineer to get a few extra feet. Greg Lemon TR250 On Tue, Mar 14, 2023, 6:01 PM wrote: > I have a 2 post MaxJax lift and about 8? and I haven?t been able to put my > lowered 93 MR2 under my 308 GT8 Dino or visa/versa. They are a few feet > too tall.?.but I am hoping the TR3 will fit (can?t check yet as it is at my > parents house) While the other cars are small the TR3 is in it?sown > league, It is a very short car. > > > > *From:* Triumphs *On Behalf Of *William > Smith > *Sent:* Tuesday, March 14, 2023 4:02 PM > *To:* Triumph List > *Subject:* [TR] TR Stacking > > > > Don't think 8 ft will do it. Considering each car is probably at least 4' > high (don't forget the windshield height), plus the thickness of the > runways (about 5 or 6 inches), I don't think you'd be able to get them both > in unless you remove the windshields. > > Bill Smith > > 72 TR6 > > 80 TR7 > > > > > > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20210101_092800663.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 708268 bytes Desc: not available URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Wed Mar 15 09:02:47 2023 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2023 10:02:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR Stacking In-Reply-To: <046a01d956c3$0e665820$2b330860$@curryclan.net> References: <046a01d956c3$0e665820$2b330860$@curryclan.net> Message-ID: If you have the older TR3 with Dzus fasteners it is easy to pull the windscreen. Can be done by one but safer with a helper. With an 8? ceiling you will most likely need to, from what has been reported here. Thanks, Bill B ?Shoot low sheriff, she?s riding a shetland? ?B.Wills On Mar 14, 2023, at 6:04 PM, jeremiah at curryclan.net wrote: ? I have a 2 post MaxJax lift and about 8? and I haven?t been able to put my lowered 93 MR2 under my 308 GT8 Dino or visa/versa. They are a few feet too tall.?.but I am hoping the TR3 will fit (can?t check yet as it is at my parents house) While the other cars are small the TR3 is in it?sown league, It is a very short car. From: Triumphs On Behalf Of William Smith Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2023 4:02 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] TR Stacking Don't think 8 ft will do it. Considering each car is probably at least 4' high (don't forget the windshield height), plus the thickness of the runways (about 5 or 6 inches), I don't think you'd be able to get them both in unless you remove the windshields. Bill Smith 72 TR6 80 TR7 Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From aribertn at gmail.com Sat Mar 18 18:39:03 2023 From: aribertn at gmail.com (aribert neumann) Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2023 20:39:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Transmission rebuild - one more image Message-ID: I noticed that I did not attach the correct exploded view - after I went to the trouble of making notes on it. Off in digest mode. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: GT6 trans exploded view.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 181864 bytes Desc: not available URL: From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Mar 18 19:05:54 2023 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (CFM-TR) Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2023 21:05:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Emblem References: <009501d959fe$f5e82fa0$e1b88ee0$.ref@verizon.net> Message-ID: <009501d959fe$f5e82fa0$e1b88ee0$@verizon.net> Found this in a box of parts I got almost 20 years ago. Anyone know anything about its use or placement? Original? Or someone's "fancy"? Thanks Carl 1960 Triumph TR3 TS81802LO Tampa, FL -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2397 bytes Desc: not available URL: From aribertn at gmail.com Sun Mar 19 05:32:19 2023 From: aribertn at gmail.com (aribert neumann) Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2023 07:32:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR Stacking Message-ID: From: Greg Lemon Subject: Re: [TR] TR Stacking ........Lastly is it space under a fixed roof (like a garage under a room in the house) or are there rafters or trusses--if the latter you can often re-engineer to get a few extra feet. Greg Lemon TR250 I have about an 8.5 ft ceiling in my garage with truss roof construction. While not a trivial endeavor, there are approved methods for reinforcing a cut truss. I created a pocket about 14 or 15 inches into the ceiling for the greenhouse of a vehicle to park into. In the driving season, I stack my '71 Spit bodied GT6 and a '61 Ford Falcon - either on top. I have a two post lift - and wish it were a 4 post lift for the convenience (speed) of swapping cars. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Sun Mar 19 08:45:49 2023 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2023 09:45:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Emblem In-Reply-To: <009501d959fe$f5e82fa0$e1b88ee0$@verizon.net> References: <009501d959fe$f5e82fa0$e1b88ee0$.ref@verizon.net> <009501d959fe$f5e82fa0$e1b88ee0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: Those "TR3" badges were an aftermarket accessory, IIRC, from either AMCO or Cal Sales. The idea was people wanted to show what they were driving and that wasn't completely obvious when the car was viewed from the rear, as at a stoplight. On Sat, Mar 18, 2023 at 8:16?PM CFM-TR wrote: > > > Found this in a box of parts I got almost 20 years ago. Anyone know > anything about its use or placement? Original? Or someone?s ?fancy?? > > > > Thanks > > > > Carl > > 1960 Triumph TR3 > > TS81802LO > > Tampa, FL > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From aribertn at gmail.com Sun Mar 19 17:46:53 2023 From: aribertn at gmail.com (aribert neumann) Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2023 19:46:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - second attempt, part 1 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I tried to send this message yesterday but it has not appeared yet so I am resending it - guessing that I may have had too many (or too large of) images. I'll splint it into two messages and reduce the image file sizes - hopefully this message will go thru. I'll start off with a quick comment - as I started to type the e-mail address, up popped suggestions that started with TR. Third on the list was "TR3driver" - the late Randall (Young, I think). I sincerely hope someone will "fill his shoes" with respect to my questions. I'm not on any other Triumph related groups - you are all I've got for input. I am in the process of reassembling (or trying to) my GT6 transmission - please don't tune out, conceptually the trans is similar to the big Triumphs. On dismantling my trans, I observed that the split collars had spun on the main shaft, wearing a relief in the collars and raising an edge on the main shaft. What keeps the collars from rotating when 1st gear is in motion? I am focused on preventing this problem in the future. When I rotate first gear on the shaft, the split washers rotate with the shaft. I am wondering if the tolerance stack up of the 2nd & 3rd gear bushings, spacers, etc (from the circlip to the split collars) was too large allowing first gear to push the split collars forward on the shaft. What else could cause this rotation/wear? Images as follows - old mainshaft with raised edge from the spinning split washers, good & worn split washers, good split washers nested in the first gear pocket. Off in digest mode preparing part 2 of this message. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: GT6 old mainshaft with ridge.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 145269 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: GT6 worn split collars.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 205366 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: GT6 split collars in 1st gear.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 123314 bytes Desc: not available URL: From aribertn at gmail.com Sun Mar 19 17:52:24 2023 From: aribertn at gmail.com (aribert neumann) Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2023 19:52:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - 2nd attempt, part2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Next question - my (new) replacement main shaft is oversize in a couple of places. The diameter under the 2nd & 3rd gear bushings (I have opened up the bushings to only have a light interference fit). Worst is the diameter under the rear bearing. I can install the bearing but I have to hammer it ***hard*** to get it to fit on the shaft - can't be good for the bearing - guessing I might change the inner race diameter a miniscule amount. I'm thinking of sending this main shaft back to Spitbits and reusing my old main shaft. I have cleaned up the groove for the split collars on my lathe. The other damage on the shaft is on the nose where the cage bearing rides in the input shaft - this damage is only on one side of the shaft and only on half of the bearing surface (fore/aft). I am already going to replace the cage bearing with a bearing bronze bushing since the surface inside the input shaft pocket is showing wear also. The max amount of surface missing on the nose of the old main shaft is 0.003 in diameter. Images: exploded view from Bentley manual, nose of the old, worn mainshaft Your thoughts and suggestions please - off in digest mode awaiting your responses. Trying to formulate a new plan of attack for Monday morning. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: GT6 trans exploded view.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 181864 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: GT6 Wear on nose of mainshaft.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 120690 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Mon Mar 20 06:39:48 2023 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2023 12:39:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - second attempt, part 1 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2090616878.2487776.1679315988251@mail.yahoo.com> It has been many years (< 25, I think) but I once rebuilt a TR6 transmission with a used mainshaft that had similar wear on a shoulder like that.? There was a thrust washer that fitted up against shoulder.? A few years later I was rebuilding it again.? The thrust washer had broken into parts.? My solution was to buy a new mainshaft (that is a story in itself) along with some other parts.? 25 years later that part is still soldering on.? (I had to rebuild again for layshaft issues but that's unrelated) I would be very reluctant to reuse that mainshaft.? The raised ridge is not what worries me it is the fact that the edge of the grove is not square and the thrust applied by the helical gears will point load the split collars and they will fail again.? The TR6 transmission si probably different but the basic design is similar and the force loading is also similar.? Helical gears are sued to keep tooth noise down but the fact that they are wound in a helical manner around the axis means the forces applied to the gears is at an angle to that axis.? Part of that force is used to rotate the shaft but the other is applied to the bearings at either end of the transmission meaning the split collars in your case will take up that force as an interface between the shaft and the bearing inner race.? I don't have enough experience to say whether the transmission will last a week, month, year or 10 years with that shaft but I would have much more confidence in a new, quality shaft. Dave -----Original Message----- From: aribert neumann To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Mar 19, 2023 6:46 pm Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - second attempt, part 1 I tried to send this message yesterday but it has not appeared yet so I am resending it - guessing that I may have had too many (or too large of) images.? ?I'll splint it into two messages and reduce the image file sizes - hopefully this message will go thru. I'll start off with a quick comment - as I started to type the e-mail address, up popped suggestions that started with TR.? ?Third on the list was "TR3driver" - the late Randall (Young, I think).? ?I sincerely hope someone will "fill his shoes" with respect to my questions.? ?I'm not on any other Triumph related groups - you are all I've got for input. I am in the process of reassembling (or trying to) my GT6 transmission - please don't tune out, conceptually the trans is similar to the big Triumphs.? ?On dismantling my trans, I observed that the split collars had spun on the main shaft, wearing a relief in the collars and raising an edge on the main shaft.? What keeps the collars from rotating when 1st gear is in motion?? I am focused on preventing this problem in the future.? When I rotate first gear on the shaft, the split washers rotate with the shaft.? I am wondering if the tolerance stack up of the 2nd & 3rd gear bushings, spacers, etc (from the circlip to the split collars) was too large allowing first gear to push the split collars forward on the shaft.? What else could cause this rotation/wear??? Images as follows - old mainshaft with raised edge from the spinning split washers, good & worn split washers, good split washers nested in the first gear pocket.? ? Off in digest mode preparing part 2 of this message. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Mon Mar 20 07:30:54 2023 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2023 13:30:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - 2nd attempt, part2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <583075131.2506945.1679319054463@mail.yahoo.com> That looks like the heat treated, hardened? surface is starting to break up.? That is what happened to my layshaft.? Another reason to abandon that mainshaft.? If you have an alternate bearing combination that doesn't relay on that surface for the bearing rollers then the hardened surface is no longer critical.? But this is above my pay grade. BTW, I misinterpreted one of your previous photos.? The split washers transfer the lateral forces from the synchro hub to the mainshaft but the end result is the same, with a compromised groove surface like that the split collars will fail prematurely.?? If you open the grove to clean up the shoulder will the split washers stay in place?? If they fall out you have serious problems.? Even if they stay in place will it increase backlash?? Can you get oversized split collars?? Make shims?? All this is above my pay grade. Dave -----Original Message----- From: aribert neumann To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Mar 19, 2023 6:52 pm Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - 2nd attempt, part2 Next question - my (new) replacement main shaft is oversize in a couple of places.? ?The diameter under the 2nd & 3rd gear bushings (I have opened up the bushings to only have a light interference fit).? Worst is the diameter under the rear bearing.? I can install the bearing but I have to hammer it ***hard*** to get it to fit on the shaft - can't be good for the bearing - guessing I might change the inner race diameter a miniscule amount.? I'm thinking of sending this main shaft back to Spitbits and reusing my old main shaft.? I have cleaned up the groove for the split collars on my lathe.? The other damage on the shaft is on the nose where the cage bearing rides in the input shaft - this damage is only on one side of the shaft and only on half of the bearing surface (fore/aft).? I am already going to replace the cage bearing with a bearing bronze bushing since the surface inside the input shaft pocket is showing wear also.? The max amount of surface missing on the nose of the old main shaft is 0.003 in diameter.? ?Images:? exploded view from Bentley? manual, nose of the old, worn mainshaft Your thoughts and suggestions please - off in digest mode awaiting your responses.? Trying to formulate a new plan of attack for Monday morning. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Mon Mar 20 14:49:20 2023 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2023 16:49:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - 2nd attempt, part2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2588d001-a90b-f5fc-5439-5be29594c7c4@verizon.net> In prep for stacking gears on the main shaft, you need to pre-install the bushes to determine the required thickness of the circlip You se the clearance by selecting the right thickness washer.? As stated all too often you need to RTFM.?? improper assy will be short lived. You'll be pulling the tranny again MUCH sooner than expected as 2nd gear CRUNCH will not be avoidable when the clip goes out again. You even need to pay attention to which side of the clip faces the splines. The SQUARE edge needs to face the spline lips. The rounded one leads to exactly what has destroyed your shaft as pictured ptegler On 3/19/2023 7:52 PM, aribert neumann wrote: > Next question - my (new) replacement main shaft is oversize in a > couple of places. ?The diameter under the 2nd & 3rd gear bushings (I > have opened up the bushings to only have a light interference fit).? > Worst is the diameter under the rear bearing.? I can install the > bearing but I have to hammer it ***hard*** to get it to fit on the > shaft - can't be good for the bearing - guessing I might change the > inner race diameter a miniscule amount.? I'm thinking of sending this > main shaft back to Spitbits and reusing my old main shaft.? I have > cleaned up the groove for the split collars on my lathe.? The other > damage on the shaft is on the nose where the cage bearing rides in the > input shaft - this damage is only on one side of the shaft and only on > half of the bearing surface (fore/aft).? I am already going to replace > the cage bearing with a bearing bronze bushing since the surface > inside the input shaft pocket is showing wear also.? The max amount of > surface missing on the nose of the old main shaft is 0.003 in > diameter.? ?Images:? exploded view from Bentley? manual, nose of the > old, worn mainshaft > > Your thoughts and suggestions please - off in digest mode awaiting > your responses.? Trying to formulate a new plan of attack for Monday > morning. > > > > **triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From aribertn at gmail.com Mon Mar 20 19:45:59 2023 From: aribertn at gmail.com (aribert neumann) Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2023 21:45:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 16, Issue 39 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > > Dave: Thank you for your thoughtfull reply! The groove in the main > shaft that locates the split collars is not as bad as it looks - most of > the taper turns out to be material worn off of the split collars and welded > onto the main shaft. I have cleaned up the groove, to the same dimesion as > the groove on the new main shaft I bought (that has the oversize issues) > and that took out all the taper. > The concern I still have is *how to prevent the split collars from > spinning in the future* to prevent this from happening again - either on > the old shaft or on a new shaft. The split collars are not bearings or > bushings and if they keep spinning in the future I'll see the same problem. > > > > > From: DAVID MASSEY > To: "aribertn at gmail.com" , "triumphs at autox.team.net" < > triumphs at autox.team.net> > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2023 12:39:48 +0000 (UTC) > Subject: Re: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - > second attempt, part 1 > It has been many years (< 25, I think) but I once rebuilt a TR6 > transmission with a used mainshaft that had similar wear on a shoulder like > that. There was a thrust washer that fitted up against shoulder. A few > years later I was rebuilding it again. The thrust washer had broken into > parts. My solution was to buy a new mainshaft (that is a story in itself) > along with some other parts. 25 years later that part is still soldering > on. (I had to rebuild again for layshaft issues but that's unrelated) > > I would be very reluctant to reuse that mainshaft. The raised ridge is > not what worries me it is the fact that the edge of the grove is not square > and the thrust applied by the helical gears will point load the split > collars and they will fail again. The TR6 transmission si probably > different but the basic design is similar and the force loading is also > similar. Helical gears are sued to keep tooth noise down but the fact that > they are wound in a helical manner around the axis means the forces applied > to the gears is at an angle to that axis. Part of that force is used to > rotate the shaft but the other is applied to the bearings at either end of > the transmission meaning the split collars in your case will take up that > force as an interface between the shaft and the bearing inner race. I > don't have enough experience to say whether the transmission will last a > week, month, year or 10 years with that shaft but I would have much more > confidence in a new, quality shaft. > > Dave > > > > > > > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: DAVID MASSEY > To: "aribertn at gmail.com" , "triumphs at autox.team.net" < > triumphs at autox.team.net> > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2023 13:30:54 +0000 (UTC) > Subject: Re: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - > 2nd attempt, part2 > That looks like the heat treated, hardened surface is starting to break > up. That is what happened to my layshaft. Another reason to abandon that > mainshaft. If you have an alternate bearing combination that doesn't relay > on that surface for the bearing rollers then the hardened surface is no > longer critical. But this is above my pay grade. > > BTW, I misinterpreted one of your previous photos. The split washers > transfer the lateral forces from the synchro hub to the mainshaft but the > end result is the same, with a compromised groove surface like that the > split collars will fail prematurely. If you open the grove to clean up > the shoulder will the split washers stay in place? If they fall out you > have serious problems. Even if they stay in place will it increase > backlash? Can you get oversized split collars? Make shims? All this is > above my pay grade. > > Dave > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joemato at sbcglobal.net Tue Mar 21 04:56:13 2023 From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO) Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2023 10:56:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 16, Issue 39 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1238041248.3024853.1679396173450@mail.yahoo.com> Hi. John Esposito is the best LBC mechanic in CT and he has a shop in Oxford, CT called Quantum Mechanics. He is a math nut and works with the MG club and does the rebuilding work for TRF. He was making TR main shafts after he found no saleable units. Joe Mato62 Wood RoadRedding, CT 06896917 232 1555 On Monday, March 20, 2023 at 02:49:34 PM EDT, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to ??? triumphs at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??? triumphs-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ??? triumphs-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." Today's Topics: ? 1. Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - ? ? ? second attempt, part 1 (aribert neumann) ? 2. Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - 2nd ? ? ? attempt, part2 (aribert neumann) ? 3. Re: Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - ? ? ? second attempt, part 1 (DAVID MASSEY) ? 4. Re: Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - ? ? ? 2nd attempt, part2 (DAVID MASSEY) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2023 19:46:53 -0400 From: aribert neumann To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - ??? second attempt, part 1 Message-ID: ??? Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" I tried to send this message yesterday but it has not appeared yet so I am resending it - guessing that I may have had too many (or too large of) images.? I'll splint it into two messages and reduce the image file sizes - hopefully this message will go thru. I'll start off with a quick comment - as I started to type the e-mail address, up popped suggestions that started with TR.? Third on the list was "TR3driver" - the late Randall (Young, I think).? I sincerely hope someone will "fill his shoes" with respect to my questions.? I'm not on any other Triumph related groups - you are all I've got for input. I am in the process of reassembling (or trying to) my GT6 transmission - please don't tune out, conceptually the trans is similar to the big Triumphs.? On dismantling my trans, I observed that the split collars had spun on the main shaft, wearing a relief in the collars and raising an edge on the main shaft.? What keeps the collars from rotating when 1st gear is in motion?? I am focused on preventing this problem in the future.? When I rotate first gear on the shaft, the split washers rotate with the shaft.? I am wondering if the tolerance stack up of the 2nd & 3rd gear bushings, spacers, etc (from the circlip to the split collars) was too large allowing first gear to push the split collars forward on the shaft.? What else could cause this rotation/wear? Images as follows - old mainshaft with raised edge from the spinning split washers, good & worn split washers, good split washers nested in the first gear pocket.? ? Off in digest mode preparing part 2 of this message. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: GT6 old mainshaft with ridge.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 145269 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: GT6 worn split collars.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 205366 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: GT6 split collars in 1st gear.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 123314 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2023 19:52:24 -0400 From: aribert neumann To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - ??? 2nd attempt, part2 Message-ID: ??? Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Next question - my (new) replacement main shaft is oversize in a couple of places.? The diameter under the 2nd & 3rd gear bushings (I have opened up the bushings to only have a light interference fit).? Worst is the diameter under the rear bearing.? I can install the bearing but I have to hammer it ***hard*** to get it to fit on the shaft - can't be good for the bearing - guessing I might change the inner race diameter a miniscule amount.? I'm thinking of sending this main shaft back to Spitbits and reusing my old main shaft.? I have cleaned up the groove for the split collars on my lathe.? The other damage on the shaft is on the nose where the cage bearing rides in the input shaft - this damage is only on one side of the shaft and only on half of the bearing surface (fore/aft).? I am already going to replace the cage bearing with a bearing bronze bushing since the surface inside the input shaft pocket is showing wear also.? The max amount of surface missing on the nose of the old main shaft is 0.003 in diameter. Images:? exploded view from Bentley? manual, nose of the old, worn mainshaft Your thoughts and suggestions please - off in digest mode awaiting your responses.? Trying to formulate a new plan of attack for Monday morning. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: GT6 trans exploded view.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 181864 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: GT6 Wear on nose of mainshaft.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 120690 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2023 12:39:48 +0000 (UTC) From: DAVID MASSEY To: "aribertn at gmail.com" , ??? "triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding ??? experience - second attempt, part 1 Message-ID: <2090616878.2487776.1679315988251 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" It has been many years (< 25, I think) but I once rebuilt a TR6 transmission with a used mainshaft that had similar wear on a shoulder like that.? There was a thrust washer that fitted up against shoulder.? A few years later I was rebuilding it again.? The thrust washer had broken into parts.? My solution was to buy a new mainshaft (that is a story in itself) along with some other parts.? 25 years later that part is still soldering on.? (I had to rebuild again for layshaft issues but that's unrelated) I would be very reluctant to reuse that mainshaft.? The raised ridge is not what worries me it is the fact that the edge of the grove is not square and the thrust applied by the helical gears will point load the split collars and they will fail again.? The TR6 transmission si probably different but the basic design is similar and the force loading is also similar.? Helical gears are sued to keep tooth noise down but the fact that they are wound in a helical manner around the axis means the forces applied to the gears is at an angle to that axis.? Part of that force is used to rotate the shaft but the other is applied to the bearings at either end of the transmission meaning the split collars in your case will take up that force as an interface between the shaft and the bearing inner race.? I don't have enough experience to say whether the transmission will last a week, month, year or 10 years with that shaft but I would have much more confidence in a new, quality shaft. Dave -----Original Message----- From: aribert neumann To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Mar 19, 2023 6:46 pm Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - second attempt, part 1 I tried to send this message yesterday but it has not appeared yet so I am resending it - guessing that I may have had too many (or too large of) images.? ?I'll splint it into two messages and reduce the image file sizes - hopefully this message will go thru. I'll start off with a quick comment - as I started to type the e-mail address, up popped suggestions that started with TR.? ?Third on the list was "TR3driver" - the late Randall (Young, I think).? ?I sincerely hope someone will "fill his shoes" with respect to my questions.? ?I'm not on any other Triumph related groups - you are all I've got for input. I am in the process of reassembling (or trying to) my GT6 transmission - please don't tune out, conceptually the trans is similar to the big Triumphs.? ?On dismantling my trans, I observed that the split collars had spun on the main shaft, wearing a relief in the collars and raising an edge on the main shaft.? What keeps the collars from rotating when 1st gear is in motion?? I am focused on preventing this problem in the future.? When I rotate first gear on the shaft, the split washers rotate with the shaft.? I am wondering if the tolerance stack up of the 2nd & 3rd gear bushings, spacers, etc (from the circlip to the split collars) was too large allowing first gear to push the split collars forward on the shaft.? What else could cause this rotation/wear??? Images as follows - old mainshaft with raised edge from the spinning split washers, good & worn split washers, good split washers nested in the first gear pocket.? ? Off in digest mode preparing part 2 of this message. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2023 13:30:54 +0000 (UTC) From: DAVID MASSEY To: "aribertn at gmail.com" , ??? "triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding ??? experience - 2nd attempt, part2 Message-ID: <583075131.2506945.1679319054463 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" That looks like the heat treated, hardened? surface is starting to break up.? That is what happened to my layshaft.? Another reason to abandon that mainshaft.? If you have an alternate bearing combination that doesn't relay on that surface for the bearing rollers then the hardened surface is no longer critical.? But this is above my pay grade. BTW, I misinterpreted one of your previous photos.? The split washers transfer the lateral forces from the synchro hub to the mainshaft but the end result is the same, with a compromised groove surface like that the split collars will fail prematurely.?? If you open the grove to clean up the shoulder will the split washers stay in place?? If they fall out you have serious problems.? Even if they stay in place will it increase backlash?? Can you get oversized split collars?? Make shims?? All this is above my pay grade. Dave -----Original Message----- From: aribert neumann To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Mar 19, 2023 6:52 pm Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - 2nd attempt, part2 Next question - my (new) replacement main shaft is oversize in a couple of places.? ?The diameter under the 2nd & 3rd gear bushings (I have opened up the bushings to only have a light interference fit).? Worst is the diameter under the rear bearing.? I can install the bearing but I have to hammer it ***hard*** to get it to fit on the shaft - can't be good for the bearing - guessing I might change the inner race diameter a miniscule amount.? I'm thinking of sending this main shaft back to Spitbits and reusing my old main shaft.? I have cleaned up the groove for the split collars on my lathe.? The other damage on the shaft is on the nose where the cage bearing rides in the input shaft - this damage is only on one side of the shaft and only on half of the bearing surface (fore/aft).? I am already going to replace the cage bearing with a bearing bronze bushing since the surface inside the input shaft pocket is showing wear also.? The max amount of surface missing on the nose of the old m ain shaft is 0.003 in diameter.? ?Images:? exploded view from Bentley? manual, nose of the old, worn mainshaft Your thoughts and suggestions please - off in digest mode awaiting your responses.? Trying to formulate a new plan of attack for Monday morning. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs ------------------------------ End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 16, Issue 39 **************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Mar 21 06:53:28 2023 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2023 12:53:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 16, Issue 39 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <85348306.3083714.1679403208379@mail.yahoo.com> Why are they spinning?? It seems to me that they are trapped between the mainshaft and the synchro hub with has splines which engage the splines on the mainshaft.? Is the synchronizer engaging them in some way?? I guess I'm not seeing something looking at the pictures. I'm afraid I can be of no more help.? I've reached the limit of my experience.? Good luck Dave -----Original Message----- From: aribert neumann To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Mar 20, 2023 8:45 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 16, Issue 39 Dave:? ?Thank you for your thoughtfull reply!? ?The groove in the main shaft that locates the split collars is not as bad as it looks - most of the taper turns out to be material worn off of the split collars and welded onto the main shaft.? I have cleaned up the groove, to the same dimesion as the groove on the new main shaft I bought (that has the oversize issues) and that took out all the taper.? ? The concern I still have is?how to prevent the split collars from spinning in the future?to prevent this from happening again - either on the old shaft or on a new shaft.? ?The split collars are not bearings or bushings and if they keep spinning in the future I'll see the same problem. ? ?? From:?DAVID MASSEY To:?"aribertn at gmail.com" , "triumphs at autox.team.net" Cc:? Bcc:? Date:?Mon, 20 Mar 2023 12:39:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject:?Re: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - second attempt, part 1 It has been many years (< 25, I think) but I once rebuilt a TR6 transmission with a used mainshaft that had similar wear on a shoulder like that.? There was a thrust washer that fitted up against shoulder.? A few years later I was rebuilding it again.? The thrust washer had broken into parts.? My solution was to buy a new mainshaft (that is a story in itself) along with some other parts.? 25 years later that part is still soldering on.? (I had to rebuild again for layshaft issues but that's unrelated) I would be very reluctant to reuse that mainshaft.? The raised ridge is not what worries me it is the fact that the edge of the grove is not square and the thrust applied by the helical gears will point load the split collars and they will fail again.? The TR6 transmission si probably different but the basic design is similar and the force loading is also similar.? Helical gears are sued to keep tooth noise down but the fact that they are wound in a helical manner around the axis means the forces applied to the gears is at an angle to that axis.? Part of that force is used to rotate the shaft but the other is applied to the bearings at either end of the transmission meaning the split collars in your case will take up that force as an interface between the shaft and the bearing inner race.? I don't have enough experience to say whether the transmission will last a week, month, year or 10 years with that shaft but I would have much more confidence in a new, quality shaft. Dave ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From:?DAVID MASSEY To:?"aribertn at gmail.com" , "triumphs at autox.team.net" Cc:? Bcc:? Date:?Mon, 20 Mar 2023 13:30:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject:?Re: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - 2nd attempt, part2 That looks like the heat treated, hardened? surface is starting to break up.? That is what happened to my layshaft.? Another reason to abandon that mainshaft.? If you have an alternate bearing combination that doesn't relay on that surface for the bearing rollers then the hardened surface is no longer critical.? But this is above my pay grade. BTW, I misinterpreted one of your previous photos.? The split washers transfer the lateral forces from the synchro hub to the mainshaft but the end result is the same, with a compromised groove surface like that the split collars will fail prematurely.?? If you open the grove to clean up the shoulder will the split washers stay in place?? If they fall out you have serious problems.? Even if they stay in place will it increase backlash?? Can you get oversized split collars?? Make shims?? All this is above my pay grade. Dave ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Mar 21 08:13:45 2023 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2023 08:13:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 16, Issue 39 In-Reply-To: <1238041248.3024853.1679396173450@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1238041248.3024853.1679396173450@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2fe5f0e4-32b3-b552-815e-b2521acd1700@porterscustom.com> I second that notion.. dp On 3/21/2023 4:56 AM, JOSEPH MATO wrote: > Hi. John Esposito is the best LBC mechanic in CT and he has a shop in > Oxford, CT called Quantum Mechanics. He is a math nut and works with > the MG club and does the rebuilding work for TRF. He was making TR > main shafts after he found no saleable units. > > Joe Mato > 62 Wood Road > Redding, CT 06896 > 917 232 1555 > > > On Monday, March 20, 2023 at 02:49:34 PM EDT, > triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > > Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to > triumphs at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > triumphs-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > triumphs-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > ? 1. Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - > ? ? ? second attempt, part 1 (aribert neumann) > ? 2. Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - 2nd > ? ? ? attempt, part2 (aribert neumann) > ? 3. Re: Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - > ? ? ? second attempt, part 1 (DAVID MASSEY) > ? 4. Re: Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - > ? ? ? 2nd attempt, part2 (DAVID MASSEY) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2023 19:46:53 -0400 > From: aribert neumann > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - > ??? second attempt, part 1 > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I tried to send this message yesterday but it has not appeared yet so I am > resending it - guessing that I may have had too many (or too large of) > images.? I'll splint it into two messages and reduce the image file sizes > - hopefully this message will go thru. > > I'll start off with a quick comment - as I started to type the e-mail > address, up popped suggestions that started with TR.? Third on the list > was "TR3driver" - the late Randall (Young, I think).? I sincerely hope > someone will "fill his shoes" with respect to my questions.? I'm not on > any other Triumph related groups - you are all I've got for input. > > I am in the process of reassembling (or trying to) my GT6 transmission - > please don't tune out, conceptually the trans is similar to the big > Triumphs.? On dismantling my trans, I observed that the split collars had > spun on the main shaft, wearing a relief in the collars and raising an > edge > on the main shaft.? What keeps the collars from rotating when 1st gear is > in motion?? I am focused on preventing this problem in the future.? When I > rotate first gear on the shaft, the split washers rotate with the > shaft.? I > am wondering if the tolerance stack up of the 2nd & 3rd gear bushings, > spacers, etc (from the circlip to the split collars) was too large > allowing > first gear to push the split collars forward on the shaft.? What else > could > cause this rotation/wear? > > Images as follows - old mainshaft with raised edge from the spinning split > washers, good & worn split washers, good split washers nested in the first > gear pocket.? ? Off in digest mode preparing part 2 of this message. > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: GT6 old mainshaft with ridge.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 145269 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: GT6 worn split collars.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 205366 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: GT6 split collars in 1st gear.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 123314 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2023 19:52:24 -0400 > From: aribert neumann > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - > ??? 2nd attempt, part2 > Message-ID: > ??? > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Next question - my (new) replacement main shaft is oversize in a couple of > places.? The diameter under the 2nd & 3rd gear bushings (I have opened up > the bushings to only have a light interference fit).? Worst is the > diameter > under the rear bearing.? I can install the bearing but I have to hammer it > ***hard*** to get it to fit on the shaft - can't be good for the bearing - > guessing I might change the inner race diameter a miniscule amount.? I'm > thinking of sending this main shaft back to Spitbits and reusing my old > main shaft.? I have cleaned up the groove for the split collars on my > lathe.? The other damage on the shaft is on the nose where the cage > bearing > rides in the input shaft - this damage is only on one side of the > shaft and > only on half of the bearing surface (fore/aft).? I am already going to > replace the cage bearing with a bearing bronze bushing since the surface > inside the input shaft pocket is showing wear also.? The max amount of > surface missing on the nose of the old main shaft is 0.003 in diameter. > Images:? exploded view from Bentley? manual, nose of the old, worn > mainshaft > > Your thoughts and suggestions please - off in digest mode awaiting your > responses.? Trying to formulate a new plan of attack for Monday morning. > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: GT6 trans exploded view.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 181864 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: GT6 Wear on nose of mainshaft.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 120690 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2023 12:39:48 +0000 (UTC) > From: DAVID MASSEY > To: "aribertn at gmail.com" , > "triumphs at autox.team.net" > Subject: Re: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding > ??? experience - second attempt, part 1 > Message-ID: <2090616878.2487776.1679315988251 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > It has been many years (< 25, I think) but I once rebuilt a TR6 > transmission with a used mainshaft that had similar wear on a shoulder > like that.? There was a thrust washer that fitted up against > shoulder.? A few years later I was rebuilding it again.? The thrust > washer had broken into parts.? My solution was to buy a new mainshaft > (that is a story in itself) along with some other parts.? 25 years > later that part is still soldering on.? (I had to rebuild again for > layshaft issues but that's unrelated) > I would be very reluctant to reuse that mainshaft.? The raised ridge > is not what worries me it is the fact that the edge of the grove is > not square and the thrust applied by the helical gears will point load > the split collars and they will fail again.? The TR6 transmission si > probably different but the basic design is similar and the force > loading is also similar.? Helical gears are sued to keep tooth noise > down but the fact that they are wound in a helical manner around the > axis means the forces applied to the gears is at an angle to that > axis.? Part of that force is used to rotate the shaft but the other is > applied to the bearings at either end of the transmission meaning the > split collars in your case will take up that force as an interface > between the shaft and the bearing inner race.? I don't have enough > experience to say whether the transmission will last a week, month, > year or 10 years with that shaft but I would have much more confidence > in a new, quality shaft. > > Dave > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: aribert neumann > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Sun, Mar 19, 2023 6:46 pm > Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - > second attempt, part 1 > > I tried to send this message yesterday but it has not appeared yet so > I am resending it - guessing that I may have had too many (or too > large of) images.? ?I'll splint it into two messages and reduce the > image file sizes - hopefully this message will go thru. > I'll start off with a quick comment - as I started to type the e-mail > address, up popped suggestions that started with TR.? ?Third on the > list was "TR3driver" - the late Randall (Young, I think).? ?I > sincerely hope someone will "fill his shoes" with respect to my > questions.? ?I'm not on any other Triumph related groups - you are all > I've got for input. > I am in the process of reassembling (or trying to) my GT6 transmission > - please don't tune out, conceptually the trans is similar to the big > Triumphs.? ?On dismantling my trans, I observed that the split collars > had spun on the main shaft, wearing a relief in the collars and > raising an edge on the main shaft.? What keeps the collars from > rotating when 1st gear is in motion?? I am focused on preventing this > problem in the future.? When I rotate first gear on the shaft, the > split washers rotate with the shaft.? I am wondering if the tolerance > stack up of the 2nd & 3rd gear bushings, spacers, etc (from the > circlip to the split collars) was too large allowing first gear to > push the split collars forward on the shaft.? What else could cause > this rotation/wear??? > Images as follows - old mainshaft with raised edge from the spinning > split washers, good & worn split washers, good split washers nested in > the first gear pocket.? ? Off in digest mode preparing part 2 of this > message. > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2023 13:30:54 +0000 (UTC) > From: DAVID MASSEY > To: "aribertn at gmail.com" , > "triumphs at autox.team.net" > Subject: Re: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding > ??? experience - 2nd attempt, part2 > Message-ID: <583075131.2506945.1679319054463 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > That looks like the heat treated, hardened? surface is starting to > break up.? That is what happened to my layshaft.? Another reason to > abandon that mainshaft.? If you have an alternate bearing combination > that doesn't relay on that surface for the bearing rollers then the > hardened surface is no longer critical.? But this is above my pay grade. > > BTW, I misinterpreted one of your previous photos.? The split washers > transfer the lateral forces from the synchro hub to the mainshaft but > the end result is the same, with a compromised groove surface like > that the split collars will fail prematurely.?? If you open the grove > to clean up the shoulder will the split washers stay in place?? If > they fall out you have serious problems.? Even if they stay in place > will it increase backlash?? Can you get oversized split collars?? Make > shims?? All this is above my pay grade. > > Dave > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: aribert neumann > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Sun, Mar 19, 2023 6:52 pm > Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - > 2nd attempt, part2 > > Next question - my (new) replacement main shaft is oversize in a > couple of places.? ?The diameter under the 2nd & 3rd gear bushings (I > have opened up the bushings to only have a light interference fit).? > Worst is the diameter under the rear bearing.? I can install the > bearing but I have to hammer it ***hard*** to get it to fit on the > shaft - can't be good for the bearing - guessing I might change the > inner race diameter a miniscule amount.? I'm thinking of sending this > main shaft back to Spitbits and reusing my old main shaft.? I have > cleaned up the groove for the split collars on my lathe.? The other > damage on the shaft is on the nose where the cage bearing rides in the > input shaft - this damage is only on one side of the shaft and only on > half of the bearing surface (fore/aft).? I am already going to replace > the cage bearing with a bearing bronze bushing since the surface > inside the input shaft pocket is showing wear also.? The max amount of > surface missing on the nose of the old m > ain shaft is 0.003 in diameter.? ?Images:? exploded view from Bentley? > manual, nose of the old, worn mainshaft > > Your thoughts and suggestions please - off in digest mode awaiting > your responses.? Trying to formulate a new plan of attack for Monday > morning. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 16, Issue 39 > **************************************** > > **triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 87107 ph 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billyb62 at gmail.com Tue Mar 21 08:24:28 2023 From: billyb62 at gmail.com (Bill Hall) Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2023 10:24:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 16, Issue 39 In-Reply-To: <2fe5f0e4-32b3-b552-815e-b2521acd1700@porterscustom.com> References: <1238041248.3024853.1679396173450@mail.yahoo.com> <2fe5f0e4-32b3-b552-815e-b2521acd1700@porterscustom.com> Message-ID: John rebuilt my OD tranny several years ago and I'm very happy with the quality work he did for me....plus, he was a pleasure to talk to when I dropped my transmission off and picked it up. Bill '59 TR3A TS63273L (now O) On Tue, Mar 21, 2023 at 10:18?AM David P wrote: > I second that notion.. dp > On 3/21/2023 4:56 AM, JOSEPH MATO wrote: > > Hi. John Esposito is the best LBC mechanic in CT and he has a shop in > Oxford, CT called Quantum Mechanics. He is a math nut and works with the MG > club and does the rebuilding work for TRF. He was making TR main shafts > after he found no saleable units. > > Joe Mato > 62 Wood Road > Redding, CT 06896 > 917 232 1555 > > > On Monday, March 20, 2023 at 02:49:34 PM EDT, > triumphs-request at autox.team.net > wrote: > > > Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to > triumphs at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > triumphs-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > triumphs-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - > second attempt, part 1 (aribert neumann) > 2. Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - 2nd > attempt, part2 (aribert neumann) > 3. Re: Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - > second attempt, part 1 (DAVID MASSEY) > 4. Re: Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - > 2nd attempt, part2 (DAVID MASSEY) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2023 19:46:53 -0400 > From: aribert neumann > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - > second attempt, part 1 > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I tried to send this message yesterday but it has not appeared yet so I am > resending it - guessing that I may have had too many (or too large of) > images. I'll splint it into two messages and reduce the image file sizes > - hopefully this message will go thru. > > I'll start off with a quick comment - as I started to type the e-mail > address, up popped suggestions that started with TR. Third on the list > was "TR3driver" - the late Randall (Young, I think). I sincerely hope > someone will "fill his shoes" with respect to my questions. I'm not on > any other Triumph related groups - you are all I've got for input. > > I am in the process of reassembling (or trying to) my GT6 transmission - > please don't tune out, conceptually the trans is similar to the big > Triumphs. On dismantling my trans, I observed that the split collars had > spun on the main shaft, wearing a relief in the collars and raising an edge > on the main shaft. What keeps the collars from rotating when 1st gear is > in motion? I am focused on preventing this problem in the future. When I > rotate first gear on the shaft, the split washers rotate with the shaft. I > am wondering if the tolerance stack up of the 2nd & 3rd gear bushings, > spacers, etc (from the circlip to the split collars) was too large allowing > first gear to push the split collars forward on the shaft. What else could > cause this rotation/wear? > > Images as follows - old mainshaft with raised edge from the spinning split > washers, good & worn split washers, good split washers nested in the first > gear pocket. Off in digest mode preparing part 2 of this message. > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20230319/d071644c/attachment-0001.htm > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: GT6 old mainshaft with ridge.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 145269 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20230319/d071644c/attachment-0003.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: GT6 worn split collars.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 205366 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20230319/d071644c/attachment-0004.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: GT6 split collars in 1st gear.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 123314 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20230319/d071644c/attachment-0005.jpg > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2023 19:52:24 -0400 > From: aribert neumann > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - > 2nd attempt, part2 > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Next question - my (new) replacement main shaft is oversize in a couple of > places. The diameter under the 2nd & 3rd gear bushings (I have opened up > the bushings to only have a light interference fit). Worst is the diameter > under the rear bearing. I can install the bearing but I have to hammer it > ***hard*** to get it to fit on the shaft - can't be good for the bearing - > guessing I might change the inner race diameter a miniscule amount. I'm > thinking of sending this main shaft back to Spitbits and reusing my old > main shaft. I have cleaned up the groove for the split collars on my > lathe. The other damage on the shaft is on the nose where the cage bearing > rides in the input shaft - this damage is only on one side of the shaft and > only on half of the bearing surface (fore/aft). I am already going to > replace the cage bearing with a bearing bronze bushing since the surface > inside the input shaft pocket is showing wear also. The max amount of > surface missing on the nose of the old main shaft is 0.003 in diameter. > Images: exploded view from Bentley manual, nose of the old, worn > mainshaft > > Your thoughts and suggestions please - off in digest mode awaiting your > responses. Trying to formulate a new plan of attack for Monday morning. > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20230319/a2533ad4/attachment-0001.htm > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: GT6 trans exploded view.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 181864 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20230319/a2533ad4/attachment-0002.jpg > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: GT6 Wear on nose of mainshaft.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 120690 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20230319/a2533ad4/attachment-0003.jpg > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2023 12:39:48 +0000 (UTC) > From: DAVID MASSEY > To: "aribertn at gmail.com" , > "triumphs at autox.team.net" < > triumphs at autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding > experience - second attempt, part 1 > Message-ID: <2090616878.2487776.1679315988251 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > It has been many years (< 25, I think) but I once rebuilt a TR6 > transmission with a used mainshaft that had similar wear on a shoulder like > that.? There was a thrust washer that fitted up against shoulder.? A few > years later I was rebuilding it again.? The thrust washer had broken into > parts.? My solution was to buy a new mainshaft (that is a story in itself) > along with some other parts.? 25 years later that part is still soldering > on.? (I had to rebuild again for layshaft issues but that's unrelated) > I would be very reluctant to reuse that mainshaft.? The raised ridge is > not what worries me it is the fact that the edge of the grove is not square > and the thrust applied by the helical gears will point load the split > collars and they will fail again.? The TR6 transmission si probably > different but the basic design is similar and the force loading is also > similar.? Helical gears are sued to keep tooth noise down but the fact that > they are wound in a helical manner around the axis means the forces applied > to the gears is at an angle to that axis.? Part of that force is used to > rotate the shaft but the other is applied to the bearings at either end of > the transmission meaning the split collars in your case will take up that > force as an interface between the shaft and the bearing inner race.? I > don't have enough experience to say whether the transmission will last a > week, month, year or 10 years with that shaft but I would have much more > confidence in a new, quality shaft. > > Dave > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: aribert neumann > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Sun, Mar 19, 2023 6:46 pm > Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - > second attempt, part 1 > > I tried to send this message yesterday but it has not appeared yet so I am > resending it - guessing that I may have had too many (or too large of) > images.? ?I'll splint it into two messages and reduce the image file sizes > - hopefully this message will go thru. > I'll start off with a quick comment - as I started to type the e-mail > address, up popped suggestions that started with TR.? ?Third on the list > was "TR3driver" - the late Randall (Young, I think).? ?I sincerely hope > someone will "fill his shoes" with respect to my questions.? ?I'm not on > any other Triumph related groups - you are all I've got for input. > I am in the process of reassembling (or trying to) my GT6 transmission - > please don't tune out, conceptually the trans is similar to the big > Triumphs.? ?On dismantling my trans, I observed that the split collars had > spun on the main shaft, wearing a relief in the collars and raising an edge > on the main shaft.? What keeps the collars from rotating when 1st gear is > in motion?? I am focused on preventing this problem in the future.? When I > rotate first gear on the shaft, the split washers rotate with the shaft.? I > am wondering if the tolerance stack up of the 2nd & 3rd gear bushings, > spacers, etc (from the circlip to the split collars) was too large allowing > first gear to push the split collars forward on the shaft.? What else could > cause this rotation/wear??? > Images as follows - old mainshaft with raised edge from the spinning split > washers, good & worn split washers, good split washers nested in the first > gear pocket.? ? Off in digest mode preparing part 2 of this message. > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20230320/3ea8a84d/attachment-0001.htm > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2023 13:30:54 +0000 (UTC) > From: DAVID MASSEY > To: "aribertn at gmail.com" , > "triumphs at autox.team.net" < > triumphs at autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding > experience - 2nd attempt, part2 > Message-ID: <583075131.2506945.1679319054463 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > That looks like the heat treated, hardened? surface is starting to break > up.? That is what happened to my layshaft.? Another reason to abandon that > mainshaft.? If you have an alternate bearing combination that doesn't relay > on that surface for the bearing rollers then the hardened surface is no > longer critical.? But this is above my pay grade. > > BTW, I misinterpreted one of your previous photos.? The split washers > transfer the lateral forces from the synchro hub to the mainshaft but the > end result is the same, with a compromised groove surface like that the > split collars will fail prematurely.?? If you open the grove to clean up > the shoulder will the split washers stay in place?? If they fall out you > have serious problems.? Even if they stay in place will it increase > backlash?? Can you get oversized split collars?? Make shims?? All this is > above my pay grade. > > Dave > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: aribert neumann > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Sun, Mar 19, 2023 6:52 pm > Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - 2nd > attempt, part2 > > Next question - my (new) replacement main shaft is oversize in a couple of > places.? ?The diameter under the 2nd & 3rd gear bushings (I have opened up > the bushings to only have a light interference fit).? Worst is the diameter > under the rear bearing.? I can install the bearing but I have to hammer it > ***hard*** to get it to fit on the shaft - can't be good for the bearing - > guessing I might change the inner race diameter a miniscule amount.? I'm > thinking of sending this main shaft back to Spitbits and reusing my old > main shaft.? I have cleaned up the groove for the split collars on my > lathe.? The other damage on the shaft is on the nose where the cage bearing > rides in the input shaft - this damage is only on one side of the shaft and > only on half of the bearing surface (fore/aft).? I am already going to > replace the cage bearing with a bearing bronze bushing since the surface > inside the input shaft pocket is showing wear also.? The max amount of > surface missing on the nose of the old m > ain shaft is 0.003 in diameter.? ?Images:? exploded view from Bentley? > manual, nose of the old, worn mainshaft > > Your thoughts and suggestions please - off in digest mode awaiting your > responses.? Trying to formulate a new plan of attack for Monday morning. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20230320/f8dfe8ba/attachment-0001.htm > > > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 16, Issue 39 > **************************************** > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > -- > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 87107 ph 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/billyb62 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hdrider570 at att.net Tue Mar 21 10:54:25 2023 From: hdrider570 at att.net (Edward Hamer) Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2023 16:54:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] GT6 Question References: Message-ID: It looks like your trans was driven very hard and perhaps low on oil. It looks like the edges of the splines on the main shaft have been very hot (blue discolouration on the spline ends). The wear on the lay shaft indicates hard use as well. When the trans is in 4th gear no power is transmitted trough the gears, the input shaft and the main shaft are coupled to direct power from the clutch to the rear driveshaft flange. As such all the gears are spinning under no load so there is very little friction or wear to the components. Running in a lower gear for long periods of time, such as third, places a lot of strain and therefore heat into the gear train. "Banging through the gears" is stressful also. The problem with GT6 transmissions is that they are upgraded "small engine" ie Herald/Spitfire transmissions. Unfortunatly this means that they do not have a lot of reserve strenth and wear quickly when abused or raced. At a minimum I would say that you need a replacement main shaft lay shaft, all bearings, synchronizers and careful inspection if all moving parts. You should check to see if the bearing holes in the front and rear of the case are still snug on the bearings as well. I have seen cases where the front bearing just slides through the opening. Fortunatly some of the components are shared with Spitfire trans. I believe that the main shaft is and the synchronizer couplings are shared. GT6 gears are unique to the trans and are much harder to find in good condition. By the way there are no shared parts between the TR trans and the GT6. If your intention is to compete with the car or love to drive hard you might want to think about upgrading to a more modern trans. I believe that Moss Motors sells kits to convert to a Ford trans. Edward Hamer Petaluma CA Sent from my T-Mobile 5G Device Get Outlook for Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From asg123 at centurylink.net Tue Mar 21 11:19:39 2023 From: asg123 at centurylink.net (ARNOLD Gilmour) Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2023 10:19:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Worth of a 1965-1966 TR4A Message-ID: I know that a car is only "worth" what someone is willing to pay for it. That said I have been offered $3500.00 Garaged, minimal body rust. Engine turns over. Needs a tune up. Many new parts, and original parts to return to non-modified, improved, running condition. Panasports, improved wiring, starter,voltage regulator, fuel pump, distributor etc, etc. I am not greedy but I don't want to cheat myself.New top installed. I have had the car since 1980 but circumstances beyond my control cause this sale. Many extra body, engine and gear box parts. Thanks all, Arnold Gilmour avid digest recipient. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org Tue Mar 21 15:00:10 2023 From: stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org (stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org) Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2023 15:00:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] Worth of a 1965-1966 TR4A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <007401d95c38$2136be20$63a43a60$@triumphstagclub.org> Arnold, $3500 these days as a basket case ?TR? with all its ?restorable? parts. Other models may be different. Initial feeling is that you have been offered a ?forced sale value? which is about a third or less of its retail value, only based upon your short list. Overall condition of the interior and exterior, running / driving are all considerations. So if it has a good paintjob, good interior, no rust, it runs and drives, you may be fairly confident you have at least $10k of real price. That said, there are a lot of factors you need to consider in that potential sale, like you want to see it go to someone who will use it, enjoy it, restore it. You might consider an evaluation tool such as is on the Hagerty Insurance web site to get a better feel for what your car might be worth based upon its overall condition, just read the various condition descriptions and answer the questions and you will get a more accurate of your cars value range based upon the current markets. Glenn aka StagByTriumph Garage From: Triumphs On Behalf Of ARNOLD Gilmour Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2023 11:20 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Worth of a 1965-1966 TR4A I know that a car is only "worth" what someone is willing to pay for it. That said I have been offered $3500.00 Garaged, minimal body rust. Engine turns over. Needs a tune up. Many new parts, and original parts to return to non-modified, improved, running condition. Panasports, improved wiring, starter,voltage regulator, fuel pump, distributor etc, etc. I am not greedy but I don't want to cheat myself.New top installed. I have had the car since 1980 but circumstances beyond my control cause this sale. Many extra body, engine and gear box parts. Thanks all, Arnold Gilmour avid digest recipient. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Mar 21 16:09:06 2023 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2023 22:09:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Worth of a 1965-1966 TR4A In-Reply-To: <007401d95c38$2136be20$63a43a60$@triumphstagclub.org> References: <007401d95c38$2136be20$63a43a60$@triumphstagclub.org> Message-ID: <797738319.1868305.1679436546638@mail.yahoo.com> Arnold.can the buyer get in the car and test drive it?can he drive it home if he buys it?when he puts his foot on the brake will it stop properly? are you saying?Panasports, improved wiring,? starter,voltage regulator, fuel pump, distributor are all new parts?or are you saying it needs new parts. then we get to the paint. is it in any way shinny? would a wash and buff make it look presentable? the interior, comfy, no rips. no holes in carpet? if these are all positive i would agree with Glenn that you should get around 10,000.00 Frank On Tuesday, March 21, 2023 at 02:31:32 PM PDT, stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org wrote: Arnold, ? $3500 these days as a basket case ?TR? with all its ?restorable? parts.? Other models may be different. ? Initial feeling is that you have been offered a ?forced sale value? which is about a third or less of its retail value, only based upon your short list. ? Overall condition of the interior and exterior, running / driving are all considerations.? So if it has a good paintjob, good interior, no rust, it runs and drives, you may be fairly confident you have at least $10k of real price. ? That said, there are a lot of factors you need to consider in that potential sale, like you want to see it go to someone who will use it, enjoy it, restore it. ? You might consider an evaluation tool such as is on the Hagerty Insurance web site to get a better feel for what your car might be worth based upon its overall condition, just read the various condition descriptions and answer the questions and you will get a more accurate of your cars value range based upon the current markets. ? Glenn aka StagByTriumph Garage ? From: Triumphs On Behalf Of ARNOLD Gilmour Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2023 11:20 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Worth of a 1965-1966 TR4A ? I know that a car is only "worth" what someone is willing to pay for it.? That said I have been offered $3500.00? Garaged, minimal body rust. Engine turns over. Needs a tune up. Many? new parts, and original parts to return to non-modified, improved, running condition.? Panasports, improved wiring,? starter,voltage regulator, fuel pump, distributor etc, etc.? I am not greedy but I don't want to cheat myself.New top installed. I have had the car since 1980 but circumstances beyond my control cause this sale. Many extra body, engine and gear box parts. Thanks all, Arnold Gilmour avid digest recipient. ? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From aribertn at gmail.com Tue Mar 21 20:54:44 2023 From: aribertn at gmail.com (aribert neumann) Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2023 22:54:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - 2nd attempt, part2 Message-ID: Paul - thank you for your response. I was in the process of trying to stack the bushes, etc when I discovered the main shaft being oversize. Guessing RTFM refers to reading the manual? The pertinent pages have gotten quite stained from my greasy finger prints. By clip I presume you are referring to the split collars - correct? I did not notice that there was a difference in the edges - maybe that was why when I was checking the stack up of parts aft of the split collar the split collars rotated as I turned first gear even though the stack up of parts was in the tolerance range. I need to go have a closer look at the collars - I did not notice a difference in edges of the OD. I do not remember seeing any notation in the Bentleys about split collar orientation. I think you have answered my question about the cause of the rotation of the split collars and prevented me from repeating the problem! Thank you! For anyone else following along - the attached image is of first gear with one (of the two) split collar placed in the pocket of the gear. Since the adjoining part facing this side of first gear is the shift hub (splined to the main shaft, and the synchro keyed to the shift hub) the only way for the collars to rotate relative to the shaft is if being driven by 1st gear. From: Paul Tegler Subject: Re: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - 2nd attempt, part2 In prep for stacking gears on the main shaft, you need to pre-install the bushes to determine the required thickness of the circlip You se the clearance by selecting the right thickness washer. As stated all too often you need to RTFM. improper assy will be short lived. You'll be pulling the tranny again MUCH sooner than expected as 2nd gear CRUNCH will not be avoidable when the clip goes out again. *You even need to pay attention to which side of the clip faces the splines. The SQUARE edge needs to face the spline lips.The rounded one leads to exactly what has destroyed your shaft as pictured* ptegler -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: first gear w 1 split washer.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 181647 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Tue Mar 21 22:35:06 2023 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2023 00:35:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding experience - 2nd attempt, part2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2716e492-ef65-4dda-eb12-481eea0ef83f@verizon.net> It looks like your bearing is shy of the edge of the gear! Stacking the bushes, your collars should be captured in the bush stack, not by the gear.? The clip thickness and which side I was referring to your 'non- reusable' circlip ptegler On 3/21/2023 10:54 PM, aribert neumann wrote: > Paul - thank you for your response.? ?I was in the process of trying > to stack the bushes, etc when I discovered the main shaft being > oversize.? ?Guessing RTFM refers to reading the manual?? ? The > pertinent?pages have gotten quite stained from my greasy finger prints. > > By clip I presume you are referring to the split collars - correct?? > ?I did not notice that there was a difference?in the edges - maybe > that was why when I was checking the stack up of parts aft of the > split collar the split collars rotated as I turned first gear even > though the stack up of parts was in the tolerance range.? ?I need to > go have a closer look at the collars - I did not notice a difference > in edges of the?OD.? I do not remember seeing any notation in the > Bentleys about split collar orientation.? ?I think you have answered > my question about the?cause of the?rotation of the split collars and > prevented me from repeating the problem!? Thank you! > > For anyone else following along - the attached image is of first gear > with one (of the two) split collar placed in the pocket of the gear.? > Since the adjoining part facing this side of first gear is the shift > hub (splined to the main shaft, and the synchro keyed to the shift > hub) the only way for the collars to rotate relative to the shaft is > if being driven by 1st gear. > > > > From:?Paul Tegler > Subject:?Re: [TR] Calling anyone with transmission rebuilding > experience - 2nd attempt, part2 > > In prep for stacking gears on the main shaft, you need to pre-install > the bushes to determine the required thickness of the circlip You se > the clearance by selecting the right thickness washer? As stated all > too often you need to RTFM.?? improper assy will be short lived. > You'll be pulling the tranny again MUCH sooner than expected as 2nd > gear CRUNCH will not be avoidable when the clip goes out again. *You > even need to pay attention to which side of the clip faces the > splines. The SQUARE edge needs to face the spline lips. > The rounded one leads to exactly what has destroyed your shaft as > pictured* > > ptegler > > > **triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Wed Mar 22 09:48:58 2023 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2023 11:48:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for a replacement for the gasket in my TR4A gas cap. Message-ID: <8A03FE93-DB11-424B-86FF-3410378BD9C4@fuse.net> Hi All, Has anyone out there had to replace the gasket in their TR4A gas cap? Mine is leaking. I ordered a replacement gasket from the Roadster Factory but it?s lost in shipment somewhere. I need a replacement sooner than what the US Postal Service can provide. In other words, I need a Magiver solution! Thanks! Dave Connitt Sent from my iPhone From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Mar 22 09:59:48 2023 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2023 15:59:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Looking for a replacement for the gasket in my TR4A gas cap. In-Reply-To: <8A03FE93-DB11-424B-86FF-3410378BD9C4@fuse.net> References: <8A03FE93-DB11-424B-86FF-3410378BD9C4@fuse.net> Message-ID: <801445798.3756721.1679500788353@mail.yahoo.com> You might try your local auto parts store and score some cork gasket material and cut one out, however crudely, that will work in the interim. BTW MacGyver is spelled with a "c." Dave -----Original Message----- From: Dave Connitt To: Triumphs Sent: Wed, Mar 22, 2023 10:48 am Subject: [TR] Looking for a replacement for the gasket in my TR4A gas cap. Hi All, Has anyone out there had to replace the gasket in their TR4A gas cap? Mine is leaking. I ordered a replacement gasket from the Roadster Factory but it?s lost in shipment somewhere. I need a replacement sooner than what the US Postal Service can provide. In other words, I need a Magiver solution! Thanks! Dave Connitt Sent from my iPhone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Wed Mar 22 10:16:14 2023 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2023 11:16:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] Looking for a replacement for the gasket in my TR4A gas cap. In-Reply-To: <8A03FE93-DB11-424B-86FF-3410378BD9C4@fuse.net> References: <8A03FE93-DB11-424B-86FF-3410378BD9C4@fuse.net> Message-ID: Maybe hand-cut a seal from a sheet of fuel-resistant rubber? Maybe even wet-strength solid unbleached kraft paperboard -- like the kind used in beverage carriers -- would be the real MacGyver solution. It would quite likely work very well, and certainly cost notalot. On Wed, Mar 22, 2023 at 10:59?AM Dave Connitt wrote: > Hi All, > Has anyone out there had to replace the gasket in their TR4A gas cap? Mine > is leaking. I ordered a replacement gasket from the Roadster Factory but > it?s lost in shipment somewhere. I need a replacement sooner than what the > US Postal Service can provide. > In other words, I need a Magiver solution! > Thanks! > Dave Connitt > > Sent from my iPhone > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Wed Mar 22 10:16:16 2023 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2023 12:16:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for a replacement for the gasket in my TR4A gas cap. In-Reply-To: <8A03FE93-DB11-424B-86FF-3410378BD9C4@fuse.net> References: <8A03FE93-DB11-424B-86FF-3410378BD9C4@fuse.net> Message-ID: How desperate are you? Could you cut a piece of inner tube to fit between cap and neck? Carry some spare material if that doesn't last very long. On Wed, Mar 22, 2023 at 12:04?PM Dave Connitt wrote: > > Hi All, > Has anyone out there had to replace the gasket in their TR4A gas cap? Mine is leaking. I ordered a replacement gasket from the Roadster Factory but it?s lost in shipment somewhere. I need a replacement sooner than what the US Postal Service can provide. > In other words, I need a Magiver solution! > Thanks! > Dave Connitt > > Sent from my iPhone > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com From bk13 at earthlink.net Wed Mar 22 10:56:40 2023 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2023 16:56:40 +0000 Subject: [TR] Looking for a replacement for the gasket in my TR4A gas cap. Message-ID: If it is like the GT6 where there is a round disk on the cap that seals against the opening on the car, you can make a temporary solution with duct tape. Put a couple layers of tape together and cut out a circle 3-4 inches in diameter. Then just put it in place over the opening and close the cap. Not pretty, but it worked for me on the GT6. Brian -----Original Message----- From: Dave Connitt Sent: Mar 22, 2023 8:52 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Looking for a replacement for the gasket in my TR4A gas cap. Hi All, Has anyone out there had to replace the gasket in their TR4A gas cap? Mine is leaking. I ordered a replacement gasket from the Roadster Factory but it’s lost in shipment somewhere. I need a replacement sooner than what the US Postal Service can provide. In other words, I need a Magiver solution! Thanks! Dave Connitt Sent from my iPhone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive (http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs) Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net From notakitcar at yahoo.com Wed Mar 22 11:43:54 2023 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2023 12:43:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Looking for a replacement for the gasket in my TR4A gas cap. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Wed Mar 22 12:23:21 2023 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2023 14:23:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for a replacement for the gasket in my TR4A gas cap. In-Reply-To: <8A03FE93-DB11-424B-86FF-3410378BD9C4@fuse.net> References: <8A03FE93-DB11-424B-86FF-3410378BD9C4@fuse.net> Message-ID: usually you can get next day delivery from amazon for silicon, buna-n, neoprene sheets in various thicknesses. you could simply cut what was needed to make a gasket. 1/8" https://www.amazon.com/s?k=silicone+sheet&crid=21XBT08Y8UTMB&sprefix=silicone+sheet%2Caps%2C70&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 https://www.amazon.com/s?k=neopryne+sheet&crid=1A2CWWZYAE0NM&sprefix=neopryne+sheet%2Caps%2C81&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 etc ptegler On 3/22/2023 11:48 AM, Dave Connitt wrote: > Hi All, > Has anyone out there had to replace the gasket in their TR4A gas cap? Mine is leaking. I ordered a replacement gasket from the Roadster Factory but it?s lost in shipment somewhere. I need a replacement sooner than what the US Postal Service can provide. > In other words, I need a Magiver solution! > Thanks! > Dave Connitt > > Sent from my iPhone > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com From stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org Wed Mar 22 14:12:42 2023 From: stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org (stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org) Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2023 14:12:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] Looking for a replacement for the gasket in my TR4A gas cap. In-Reply-To: References: <8A03FE93-DB11-424B-86FF-3410378BD9C4@fuse.net> Message-ID: <008601d95cfa$aa15b8f0$fe412ad0$@triumphstagclub.org> Go to the hardware store, get some 12?x12? x ?? rubber sheet, sometimes called plumbers mat. Many hardware stores carry it in neoprene and nitrile. They should also have cork sheet as an alternative. Glenn aka StagByTriumph Garage From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2023 10:16 AM To: Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Looking for a replacement for the gasket in my TR4A gas cap. Maybe hand-cut a seal from a sheet of fuel-resistant rubber? Maybe even wet-strength solid unbleached kraft paperboard -- like the kind used in beverage carriers -- would be the real MacGyver solution. It would quite likely work very well, and certainly cost notalot. On Wed, Mar 22, 2023 at 10:59?AM Dave Connitt > wrote: Hi All, Has anyone out there had to replace the gasket in their TR4A gas cap? Mine is leaking. I ordered a replacement gasket from the Roadster Factory but it?s lost in shipment somewhere. I need a replacement sooner than what the US Postal Service can provide. In other words, I need a Magiver solution! Thanks! Dave Connitt Sent from my iPhone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Mar 22 14:14:48 2023 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2023 13:14:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Looking for a replacement for the gasket in my TR4A gas cap. In-Reply-To: References: <8A03FE93-DB11-424B-86FF-3410378BD9C4@fuse.net> Message-ID: go to a good hardware store and or auto store ? show them what you need?90% will have it. > On Mar 22, 2023, at 9:16 AM, Don Hiscock wrote: > > Maybe hand-cut a seal from a sheet of fuel-resistant rubber? Maybe even wet-strength solid unbleached kraft paperboard -- like the kind used in beverage carriers -- would be the real MacGyver solution. It would quite likely work very well, and certainly cost notalot. > > On Wed, Mar 22, 2023 at 10:59?AM Dave Connitt wrote: > Hi All, > Has anyone out there had to replace the gasket in their TR4A gas cap? Mine is leaking. I ordered a replacement gasket from the Roadster Factory but it?s lost in shipment somewhere. I need a replacement sooner than what the US Postal Service can provide. > In other words, I need a Magiver solution! > Thanks! > Dave Connitt > > Sent from my iPhone > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/anabil007 at comcast.net From dconnitt at fuse.net Wed Mar 22 15:27:22 2023 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2023 17:27:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for a replacement for the gasket in my TR4A gas cap. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003C7867-E4D2-4580-8F01-94A4BD80F13F@fuse.net> Hi again, So after talking to Albert at The Roadster Factory I have another gasket on its way and we?ll NOT be traveling via USPS. Many thanks for all the great ideas. The plot thickens as my wife?s 2019 Tucson has a parasitic battery drain. Remember the 10 year/100,000 mile warranty thing? Well, the good news is that this is most likely covered under the bumper to bumper warranty. The bad news is that I can?t find a Hyundai dealer that can get to it earlier that April 26.! I wonder what the odds are of them having the parts once they figure out what the problem is? So now my TR4A is starting to look like a daily driver. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 22, 2023, at 4:15 PM, William Pugh wrote: > > ?go to a good hardware store and or auto store ? show them what you need?90% will have it. > > > >> On Mar 22, 2023, at 9:16 AM, Don Hiscock wrote: >> >> Maybe hand-cut a seal from a sheet of fuel-resistant rubber? Maybe even wet-strength solid unbleached kraft paperboard -- like the kind used in beverage carriers -- would be the real MacGyver solution. It would quite likely work very well, and certainly cost notalot. >> >> On Wed, Mar 22, 2023 at 10:59?AM Dave Connitt wrote: >> Hi All, >> Has anyone out there had to replace the gasket in their TR4A gas cap? Mine is leaking. I ordered a replacement gasket from the Roadster Factory but it?s lost in shipment somewhere. I need a replacement sooner than what the US Postal Service can provide. >> In other words, I need a Magiver solution! >> Thanks! >> Dave Connitt >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/anabil007 at comcast.net > From staffel at comcast.net Wed Mar 22 19:09:19 2023 From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel) Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2023 21:09:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Gas Cap Seal fix Message-ID: f9SRpRH3RVfFHf9SXpzkP0.1679533788.84e1317fbfe32528de6b53565957e927.MISSINGID@comcast.net Dave- RTV (colour your choice).Two suggested sequences depending on Cap design ( TR4 different from TR6s)1- apply to top of of unit in trunk surround. Smooth off. Fill Recess in Cap-smooth off. Let cure overnight. Add more if required after both sides cure.2- If bottom is flat? add RTV & smooth high, or if has Male surround just Add a layer on top.On the Cap ( my TR4 has a gasket in a recess on the top flip of the cap) Add Extra high RTV.?Schmear engine oil on bottom part, Close top gently till catches.RTV will cure and seal with a 'groove'. Problem resolved.AlwYs easy to add Little more RTV as required.Sherman D Taffel?65 TR4 CT50054LColumbia MD 21045Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lee at automate-it.com Wed Mar 22 20:47:51 2023 From: lee at automate-it.com (lee at automate-it.com) Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2023 21:47:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 dimmer ("master lighting switch") Message-ID: <7707733edf52a20e9a16d7735f1d43ba@automate-it.com> My headlight dimmer (late '74 TR6) has ceased to function, and removal reveals that the DPO did a number on it. I'd like to replace it. TRF shows three different part numbers - but none for post-CF1 commission numbers (the three are shown as "up to CC75000", "CC75000 up to CF1", and "RHS models". Moss lists one (635-665, Spitfire 1969-76, TR6 1973-76) but it's shown as 'backorder'. I may actually have one somewhere in my extensive stash - of unknown condition. Any other sources? For now I may just bypass the dimmer so that I can have lights (don't drive it much at night, but I don't want to be out and not have the option for them). thanks Lee From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Wed Mar 22 21:21:17 2023 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2023 23:21:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR Stacking In-Reply-To: <6410f413.050a0220.42835.fad1SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> References: <6410f413.050a0220.42835.fad1SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> Message-ID: I think 8ft could work. I had a four post lift in a 9ft ceiling. I parked my tr2 up top and could park my tr4 easily underneath. ISTR I could put my brides Mitsubishi Outlander underneath as well. I did have to rework the garage door tracks to bring them super close to the ceiling. On Tue, Mar 14, 2023, 6:24 PM William Smith wrote: > Don't think 8 ft will do it. Considering each car is probably at least 4' > high (don't forget the windshield height), plus the thickness of the > runways (about 5 or 6 inches), I don't think you'd be able to get them both > in unless you remove the windshields. > Bill Smith > 72 TR6 > 80 TR7 > > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From grglmn at gmail.com Thu Mar 23 05:10:30 2023 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2023 06:10:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Looking for a replacement for the gasket in my TR4A gas cap. In-Reply-To: <003C7867-E4D2-4580-8F01-94A4BD80F13F@fuse.net> References: <003C7867-E4D2-4580-8F01-94A4BD80F13F@fuse.net> Message-ID: TR4A as daily driver-yeah! I daily drive my 4A into the early 90s, which was a long time ago now, but still it was a bit antiquated by the time it was retired from daily duties. Surprisingly good for the purpose. Would have done it longer, but Midwest winters did it no good, and hot summers and no a/c did me no good back in the day when everybody who worked in an office wore a coat and tie. Have fun! How fast does the Hyundai get into dead mode? Can you pretend it is an electric card and plug it into a low amp charger every night until it gets fixed! Greg Lemon TR250 On Wed, Mar 22, 2023, 7:29 PM Dave Connitt wrote: > Hi again, > So after talking to Albert at The Roadster Factory I have another gasket > on its way and we?ll NOT be traveling via USPS. > Many thanks for all the great ideas. > The plot thickens as my wife?s 2019 Tucson has a parasitic battery drain. > Remember the 10 year/100,000 mile warranty thing? Well, the good news is > that this is most likely covered under the bumper to bumper warranty. The > bad news is that I can?t find a Hyundai dealer that can get to it earlier > that April 26.! I wonder what the odds are of them having the parts once > they figure out what the problem is? > So now my TR4A is starting to look like a daily driver. > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Mar 22, 2023, at 4:15 PM, William Pugh wrote: > > > > ?go to a good hardware store and or auto store ? show them what you > need?90% will have it. > > > > > > > >> On Mar 22, 2023, at 9:16 AM, Don Hiscock wrote: > >> > >> Maybe hand-cut a seal from a sheet of fuel-resistant rubber? Maybe > even wet-strength solid unbleached kraft paperboard -- like the kind used > in beverage carriers -- would be the real MacGyver solution. It would > quite likely work very well, and certainly cost notalot. > >> > >> On Wed, Mar 22, 2023 at 10:59?AM Dave Connitt > wrote: > >> Hi All, > >> Has anyone out there had to replace the gasket in their TR4A gas cap? > Mine is leaking. I ordered a replacement gasket from the Roadster Factory > but it?s lost in shipment somewhere. I need a replacement sooner than what > the US Postal Service can provide. > >> In other words, I need a Magiver solution! > >> Thanks! > >> Dave Connitt > >> > >> Sent from my iPhone > >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >> > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > >> > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >> > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > >> > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/anabil007 at comcast.net > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Thu Mar 23 05:28:33 2023 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2023 11:28:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR6 dimmer ("master lighting switch") In-Reply-To: <7707733edf52a20e9a16d7735f1d43ba@automate-it.com> References: <7707733edf52a20e9a16d7735f1d43ba@automate-it.com> Message-ID: <1221564964.4169801.1679570913930@mail.yahoo.com> Just bypass it and be done.? Does anyone actually dim the dash lights? Chad in Tulsa On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 02:51:15 AM CDT, lee at automate-it.com wrote: My headlight dimmer (late '74 TR6) has ceased to function, and removal reveals that the DPO did a number on it. I'd like to replace it. TRF shows three different part numbers - but none for post-CF1 commission numbers (the three are shown as "up to CC75000", "CC75000 up to CF1", and "RHS models". Moss lists one (635-665, Spitfire 1969-76, TR6 1973-76) but it's shown as 'backorder'. I may actually have one somewhere in my extensive stash - of unknown condition. Any other sources? For now I may just bypass the dimmer so that I can have lights (don't drive it much at night, but I don't want to be out and not have the option for them). thanks ? Lee ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Thu Mar 23 06:13:45 2023 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup) Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2023 12:13:45 +0000 Subject: [TR] Gas Cap Seal fix In-Reply-To: f9SRpRH3RVfFHf9SXpzkP0.1679533788.84e1317fbfe32528de6b53565957e927.MISSINGID@comcast.net References: f9SRpRH3RVfFHf9SXpzkP0.1679533788.84e1317fbfe32528de6b53565957e927.MISSINGID@comcast.net Message-ID: <3f993730418240cd9d44c33168ed877b@ranteer.com> No no no no. most rtv is not gas proof and will dissolve. Very bad idea From: Triumphs On Behalf Of staffel Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2023 8:09 PM To: dconnitt at fuse.net; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Gas Cap Seal fix Dave- RTV (colour your choice). Two suggested sequences depending on Cap design ( TR4 different from TR6s) 1- apply to top of of unit in trunk surround. Smooth off. Fill Recess in Cap-smooth off. Let cure overnight. Add more if required after both sides cure. 2- If bottom is flat add RTV & smooth high, or if has Male surround just Add a layer on top. On the Cap ( my TR4 has a gasket in a recess on the top flip of the cap) Add Extra high RTV. Schmear engine oil on bottom part, Close top gently till catches. RTV will cure and seal with a 'groove'. Problem resolved. AlwYs easy to add Little more RTV as required. Sherman D Taffel 65 TR4 CT50054L Columbia MD 21045 Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Thu Mar 23 08:08:19 2023 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2023 09:08:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gas Cap Seal fix In-Reply-To: <3f993730418240cd9d44c33168ed877b@ranteer.com> References: <3f993730418240cd9d44c33168ed877b@ranteer.com> Message-ID: +1 on ya, Dave. As one who's spent his life in polymer science and technology, I'd opine that RTV silicone is almost always a bad solution to any problem! :) On Thu, Mar 23, 2023 at 8:59?AM dave northrup wrote: > No no no no. most rtv is not gas proof and will dissolve. Very bad idea > > > > *From:* Triumphs *On Behalf Of *staffel > *Sent:* Wednesday, March 22, 2023 8:09 PM > *To:* dconnitt at fuse.net; Triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [TR] Gas Cap Seal fix > > > > Dave- RTV (colour your choice). > > > > Two suggested sequences depending on Cap design ( TR4 different from TR6s) > > 1- apply to top of of unit in trunk surround. Smooth off. Fill Recess in > Cap-smooth off. Let cure overnight. Add more if required after both sides > cure. > > > > 2- If bottom is flat add RTV & smooth high, or if has Male surround just > Add a layer on top. > > > > On the Cap ( my TR4 has a gasket in a recess on the top flip of the cap) > Add Extra high RTV. > > > > Schmear engine oil on bottom part, Close top gently till catches. > > RTV will cure and seal with a 'groove'. Problem resolved. > > AlwYs easy to add Little more RTV as required. > > > > Sherman D Taffel > > 65 TR4 CT50054L > > Columbia MD 21045 > > > > > > > > Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From elliottr at rmi.net Thu Mar 23 10:14:43 2023 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2023 11:14:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 dimmer ("master lighting switch") In-Reply-To: <1221564964.4169801.1679570913930@mail.yahoo.com> References: <7707733edf52a20e9a16d7735f1d43ba@automate-it.com> <1221564964.4169801.1679570913930@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4cc226fa-c6ff-c1e3-6715-84860a48abba@rmi.net> It looks like he is talking about the dimmer switch for headlights not the dash lights. Lee if you go to https://trf.zeni.net/TR6greenbook/27.php, I wonder if what you want is switch EQ7 instead of EQ4. Roger On 3/23/2023 6:28 AM, Chad wrote: > Just bypass it and be done.? Does anyone actually dim the dash lights? > > Chad in Tulsa > > On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 02:51:15 AM CDT, lee at automate-it.com > wrote: > > > My headlight dimmer (late '74 TR6) has ceased to function, and removal > reveals that the DPO did a number on it. I'd like to replace it. TRF > shows three different part numbers - but none for post-CF1 commission > numbers (the three are shown as "up to CC75000", "CC75000 up to CF1", > and "RHS models". Moss lists one (635-665, Spitfire 1969-76, TR6 > 1973-76) but it's shown as 'backorder'. > > I may actually have one somewhere in my extensive stash - of unknown > condition. > > Any other sources? > > For now I may just bypass the dimmer so that I can have lights (don't > drive it much at night, but I don't want to be out and not have the > option for them). > > thanks > ? Lee > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com > > **triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Thu Mar 23 11:29:14 2023 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud) Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2023 11:29:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 dimmer ("master lighting switch") In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From grglmn at gmail.com Thu Mar 23 13:53:42 2023 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2023 14:53:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 dimmer ("master lighting switch") In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Quite honestly I think if you are in a low to the ground TR6 with old school incandescent headlights you could drive around with your brights on all the time these days and nobody would ever notice. Greg Lemon TR250 On Thu, Mar 23, 2023, 2:29 PM Bud wrote: > Just drive with your brights on full time like a lot of people these days. > Apparently having the courtesy to not blind oncoming cars is old school. > > Bud > > Sent from my Commodore 64 > > The Story of Stuff > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9GorqroigqM > > On Mar 23, 2023, at 6:55 AM, rmf3860 rmf3860 wrote: > > ? > Lee, > Should you decide to just connect all the wires, thus bi-passing the > rheostat, here?s a picture of what I did. Panel lights are now always > ?bright?. > Hope this helps. > Bob > <0E1DA902-DA55-4631-9DBB-5ABAAEE6EF31.jpeg> > > > On Thu, Mar 23, 2023 at 2:01 AM wrote: > >> My headlight dimmer (late '74 TR6) has ceased to function, and removal >> reveals that the DPO did a number on it. I'd like to replace it. TRF >> shows three different part numbers - but none for post-CF1 commission >> numbers (the three are shown as "up to CC75000", "CC75000 up to CF1", >> and "RHS models". Moss lists one (635-665, Spitfire 1969-76, TR6 >> 1973-76) but it's shown as 'backorder'. >> >> I may actually have one somewhere in my extensive stash - of unknown >> condition. >> >> Any other sources? >> >> For now I may just bypass the dimmer so that I can have lights (don't >> drive it much at night, but I don't want to be out and not have the >> option for them). >> >> thanks >> Lee >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/bobfabie at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lee at automate-it.com Thu Mar 23 16:00:20 2023 From: lee at automate-it.com (lee at automate-it.com) Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2023 17:00:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 dimmer ("master lighting switch") In-Reply-To: <7707733edf52a20e9a16d7735f1d43ba@automate-it.com> References: <7707733edf52a20e9a16d7735f1d43ba@automate-it.com> Message-ID: <6c9b77cbe48d0d69f208c30c145c5d17@automate-it.com> Sorry about the confusion - but the second word of my message is "headlight". Maybe "dimmer" was the wrong word - "dipper" would have been better - but TRF uses the word dimmer in the descriptions. Anyway, yes, Roger Elliot was right, I was looking at the wrong part in the TRF Green Book. So it's ordered, and maybe it won't be on backorder too long. But for now I still think I'll just bypass the switch so that I'm only low beams (or maybe only on high beams)! My headlamps are so dim that they are barely useful - and the high beams aren't nearly as bright the low-beam HID lights (with a sharp cutoff) on modern cars - whose cutoff is still too high for those of us who are seated below belt-level when driving. ;-) (And I rarely drive the TR at night anyway.) Lee On 2023-03-22 21:47, lee at automate-it.com wrote: > My headlight dimmer (late '74 TR6) has ceased to function, and removal > reveals that the DPO did a number on it. I'd like to replace it. TRF > shows three different part numbers - but none for post-CF1 commission > numbers (the three are shown as "up to CC75000", "CC75000 up to CF1", > and "RHS models". Moss lists one (635-665, Spitfire 1969-76, TR6 > 1973-76) but it's shown as 'backorder'. > > I may actually have one somewhere in my extensive stash - of unknown > condition. > > Any other sources? > > For now I may just bypass the dimmer so that I can have lights (don't > drive it much at night, but I don't want to be out and not have the > option for them). > > thanks > Lee > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lee at automate-it.com From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Thu Mar 23 16:45:43 2023 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2023 18:45:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] mystery carbs and intake Message-ID: A friend of mine gave me two Zeniths and an odd intake attached to them. Any idea where it might belong? Thank you! Chris -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: mystery carb.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 247155 bytes Desc: not available URL: From spamiam at comcast.net Thu Mar 23 16:58:41 2023 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2023 18:58:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for a replacement for the gasket in my TR4A gas cap. Message-ID: My bet is that the drain is from the alternator Maybe pull the leads and see if the drain from the battery continues? -Tony > > Message: 4 > Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2023 17:27:22 -0400 > From: Dave Connitt > To: William Pugh > Cc: Don Hiscock , TR3/6 > > Subject: Re: [TR] Looking for a replacement for the gasket in my TR4A > gas cap. > Message-ID: <003C7867-E4D2-4580-8F01-94A4BD80F13F at fuse.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > The plot thickens as my wife?s 2019 Tucson has a parasitic battery drain. Remember the 10 year/100,000 mile warranty thing? Well, the good news is that this is most likely covered under the bumper to bumper warranty. The bad news is that I can?t find a Hyundai dealer that can get to it earlier that April 26.! I wonder what the odds are of them having the parts once they figure out what the problem is? > So now my TR4A is starting to look like a daily driver. > > > Sent from my iPhone From aljlthomson at charter.net Fri Mar 24 04:22:03 2023 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2023 06:22:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 dimmer ("master lighting switch") In-Reply-To: <6c9b77cbe48d0d69f208c30c145c5d17@automate-it.com> References: <7707733edf52a20e9a16d7735f1d43ba@automate-it.com> <6c9b77cbe48d0d69f208c30c145c5d17@automate-it.com> Message-ID: <001201d95e3a$7a5e1300$6f1a3900$@charter.net> Why not try the LiteZupp LED conversion when you do get the dimmer switch situation sorted out. Much less current draw and much better light. I also installed their LED 1157 bulbs in the rear of our TR6 - What a difference! Maybe other drivers will see us braking now. Alex Thomson '73 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of lee at automate-it.com Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2023 6:00 PM To: Triumphs; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] TR6 dimmer ("master lighting switch") Sorry about the confusion - but the second word of my message is "headlight". Maybe "dimmer" was the wrong word - "dipper" would have been better - but TRF uses the word dimmer in the descriptions. Anyway, yes, Roger Elliot was right, I was looking at the wrong part in the TRF Green Book. So it's ordered, and maybe it won't be on backorder too long. But for now I still think I'll just bypass the switch so that I'm only low beams (or maybe only on high beams)! My headlamps are so dim that they are barely useful - and the high beams aren't nearly as bright the low-beam HID lights (with a sharp cutoff) on modern cars - whose cutoff is still too high for those of us who are seated below belt-level when driving. ;-) (And I rarely drive the TR at night anyway.) Lee On 2023-03-22 21:47, lee at automate-it.com wrote: > My headlight dimmer (late '74 TR6) has ceased to function, and removal > reveals that the DPO did a number on it. I'd like to replace it. TRF > shows three different part numbers - but none for post-CF1 commission > numbers (the three are shown as "up to CC75000", "CC75000 up to CF1", > and "RHS models". Moss lists one (635-665, Spitfire 1969-76, TR6 > 1973-76) but it's shown as 'backorder'. > > I may actually have one somewhere in my extensive stash - of unknown > condition. > > Any other sources? > > For now I may just bypass the dimmer so that I can have lights (don't > drive it much at night, but I don't want to be out and not have the > option for them). > > thanks > Lee > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lee at automate-it.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From johnbmacartney at gmx.com Fri Mar 24 04:23:39 2023 From: johnbmacartney at gmx.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2023 10:23:39 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 dimmer switch Message-ID: It?s at times like this that the use of appropriate nomenclature might be a blinding flash of the obvious? Over the years, I?ve noticed many enthusiasts willingly adopting British terminologies when it comes to their cars. So if TRF had used Headlamp Beam switch or just Headlamp dipswitch, and similarly Instrument Rheostat for panel lights, a deal of confusion could have been avoided. Sometimes it?s a lot safer on the long term to use the old wheel rather than design a new one. Just my two pence worth Jonmac Sent from a piece of electronic papyrus I found in King Tut?s tomb From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Mar 24 05:52:50 2023 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2023 11:52:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR6 dimmer switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <900352988.161596.1679658770736@mail.yahoo.com> Indeed.? To paraphrase George Bernard Shaw, we are two peoples separated by a common language.? On your side of the Atlantic you use the terms "Main Beam" and "Dip Beam."? Over here we use "High Beam" and "Low Beam."? This use of "Low Beam" leads us to use the term "Dimmer Switch" suggesting that the light output is "lower" and hence "Dimmed" even though the light output is essentially unchanged.? The main difference is the change in the illumination pattern.? "Dipped" is a much more accurate term. Dave -----Original Message----- From: John Macartney To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Mar 24, 2023 5:23 am Subject: [TR] TR6 dimmer switch It?s at times like this that the use of appropriate nomenclature might be a blinding flash of the obvious? Over the years, I?ve noticed many enthusiasts willingly adopting British terminologies when it comes to their cars. So if TRF had used Headlamp Beam switch or just Headlamp dipswitch, and similarly Instrument Rheostat for panel lights, a deal of confusion could have been avoided. Sometimes it?s a lot safer on the long term to use the old wheel rather than design a new one. Just my two pence worth Jonmac Sent from a piece of electronic papyrus I found in King Tut?s tomb ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mmarr at albiontechnical.com Fri Mar 24 06:18:11 2023 From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2023 12:18:11 +0000 Subject: [TR] mystery carbs and intake In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <57B4DFF3-CF2B-4DFA-92F8-CBCFDA65F333@albiontechnical.com> What size are the carbs? Any identifying numbers on the carbs or the manifold? Mike Michael Marr Mobile: 630-202-0065 Sent from my iPad > On Mar 23, 2023, at 21:34, Chris Simo wrote: > > ? > A friend of mine gave me two Zeniths and an odd intake attached to them. > > Any idea where it might belong? > Thank you! > > Chris > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at albiontechnical.com From pdqtr6 at comcast.net Fri Mar 24 06:18:03 2023 From: pdqtr6 at comcast.net (pdqtr6) Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2023 08:18:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 dimmer switch In-Reply-To: Message-ID: fgMupdNTwwnZYfgMvpuojy.1679660286.d1524d02a10a6161ed53dec4bef75dbd.MISSINGID@comcast.net Just to add to this thread: if the headlight bulbs are either the halogen type or regular incandescent, consider adding a relay into the mix. The stock switch isn't up to handling the load, especially when using high beams. My old (original) switch got so hot that the plastic housing melted and the contacts would separate causing the lights to go off.You can buy the whole kit from Moss (p/n 117-515) for $35. Easy enough to install and better than factory.Sent from my Galaxy -------- Original message --------From: John Macartney Date: 3/24/23 7:35 AM (GMT-05:00) To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 dimmer switch It?s at times like this that the use of appropriate nomenclature might be a blinding flash of the obvious?Over the years, I?ve noticed many enthusiasts willingly adopting British terminologies when it comes to their cars. So if TRF had used Headlamp Beam switch or just Headlamp dipswitch, and similarly Instrument Rheostat for panel lights, a deal of confusion could have been avoided. Sometimes it?s a lot safer on the long term to use the old wheel rather than design a new one.Just my two pence worthJonmacSent from a piece of electronic papyrus I found in King Tut?s tomb** triumphs at autox.team.net **Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archiveUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdqtr6 at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From aljlthomson at charter.net Fri Mar 24 06:59:12 2023 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2023 08:59:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] mystery carbs and intake In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002d01d95e50$6e43c4f0$4acb4ed0$@charter.net> Anything other than the casting number on that manifold? Any insignias hiding in a corner? Alex Thomson From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2023 6:46 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] mystery carbs and intake A friend of mine gave me two Zeniths and an odd intake attached to them. Any idea where it might belong? Thank you! Chris -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From aljlthomson at charter.net Fri Mar 24 08:01:21 2023 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2023 10:01:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 dimmer switch In-Reply-To: <20230324131953.ELOM3184.mtain006.msg.chrl.nc.charter.net@charter.net> References: <20230324131953.ELOM3184.mtain006.msg.chrl.nc.charter.net@charter.net> Message-ID: <004f01d95e59$1d0d6e20$57284a60$@charter.net> I did that conversion to our GT6 when we owned it and it was fantastic. Brighter lights, switch stays cool, etc., etc. $35 to reduce the chance of a dashboard fire ? pretty cheap insurance. I never got around to changing over to LED?s on that one. Alex Thomson From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pdqtr6 Sent: Friday, March 24, 2023 8:18 AM To: John Macartney; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 dimmer switch Just to add to this thread: if the headlight bulbs are either the halogen type or regular incandescent, consider adding a relay into the mix. The stock switch isn't up to handling the load, especially when using high beams. My old (original) switch got so hot that the plastic housing melted and the contacts would separate causing the lights to go off. You can buy the whole kit from Moss (p/n 117-515) for $35. Easy enough to install and better than factory. Sent from my Galaxy -------- Original message -------- From: John Macartney Date: 3/24/23 7:35 AM (GMT-05:00) To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 dimmer switch It?s at times like this that the use of appropriate nomenclature might be a blinding flash of the obvious? Over the years, I?ve noticed many enthusiasts willingly adopting British terminologies when it comes to their cars. So if TRF had used Headlamp Beam switch or just Headlamp dipswitch, and similarly Instrument Rheostat for panel lights, a deal of confusion could have been avoided. Sometimes it?s a lot safer on the long term to use the old wheel rather than design a new one. Just my two pence worth Jonmac Sent from a piece of electronic papyrus I found in King Tut?s tomb ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdqtr6 at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Fri Mar 24 08:05:29 2023 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup) Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2023 14:05:29 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 dimmer switch In-Reply-To: fgMupdNTwwnZYfgMvpuojy.1679660286.d1524d02a10a6161ed53dec4bef75dbd.MISSINGID@comcast.net References: fgMupdNTwwnZYfgMvpuojy.1679660286.d1524d02a10a6161ed53dec4bef75dbd.MISSINGID@comcast.net Message-ID: <1a00df1d73ab46b8a91f47bb41da4da7@ranteer.com> As another user pointed out, headlights from LiteZupp are LED, don?t require relay, are much brighter, and are quite easy to install. For more info, contact cpnorthrup at crimson.ua.edu they also make drop in LED tail lights, blinkers, and even dash lights. Be safe, be bright! From: Triumphs On Behalf Of pdqtr6 Sent: Friday, March 24, 2023 7:18 AM To: John Macartney ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 dimmer switch Just to add to this thread: if the headlight bulbs are either the halogen type or regular incandescent, consider adding a relay into the mix. The stock switch isn't up to handling the load, especially when using high beams. My old (original) switch got so hot that the plastic housing melted and the contacts would separate causing the lights to go off. You can buy the whole kit from Moss (p/n 117-515) for $35. Easy enough to install and better than factory. Sent from my Galaxy -------- Original message -------- From: John Macartney > Date: 3/24/23 7:35 AM (GMT-05:00) To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 dimmer switch It?s at times like this that the use of appropriate nomenclature might be a blinding flash of the obvious? Over the years, I?ve noticed many enthusiasts willingly adopting British terminologies when it comes to their cars. So if TRF had used Headlamp Beam switch or just Headlamp dipswitch, and similarly Instrument Rheostat for panel lights, a deal of confusion could have been avoided. Sometimes it?s a lot safer on the long term to use the old wheel rather than design a new one. Just my two pence worth Jonmac Sent from a piece of electronic papyrus I found in King Tut?s tomb ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdqtr6 at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Fri Mar 24 08:27:00 2023 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2023 07:27:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] mystery carbs and intake In-Reply-To: <002d01d95e50$6e43c4f0$4acb4ed0$@charter.net> References: <002d01d95e50$6e43c4f0$4acb4ed0$@charter.net> Message-ID: <1530928695.836630.1679668020810@connect.xfinity.com> Volvo, perhaps? Jensen? Just guessing. Zenith suggests late '60s or early "70s. Dave H. > On 03/24/2023 5:59 AM Alex & Janet Thomson wrote: > > > > Anything other than the casting number on that manifold? Any insignias hiding in a corner? > > > > Alex Thomson > > > > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo > Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2023 6:46 PM > To: list Triumph > Subject: [TR] mystery carbs and intake > > > A friend of mine gave me two Zeniths and an odd intake attached to them. > > > Any idea where it might belong? > > Thank you! > > > Chris > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Mar 24 09:06:17 2023 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2023 15:06:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR6 dimmer switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1428602348.138069.1679670377132@mail.yahoo.com> and on that note:when did a rain storm become a atmospheric river?just asking. Franka scouser in california. On Friday, March 24, 2023 at 04:30:31 AM PDT, John Macartney wrote: It?s at times like this that the use of appropriate nomenclature might be a blinding flash of the obvious? Over the years, I?ve noticed many enthusiasts willingly adopting British terminologies when it comes to their cars. So if TRF had used Headlamp Beam switch or just Headlamp dipswitch, and similarly Instrument Rheostat for panel lights, a deal of confusion could have been avoided. Sometimes it?s a lot safer on the long term to use the old wheel rather than design a new one. Just my two pence worth Jonmac Sent from a piece of electronic papyrus I found in King Tut?s tomb ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcgaheyrx at aol.com Fri Mar 24 09:57:33 2023 From: mcgaheyrx at aol.com (mcgaheyrx at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2023 15:57:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] mystery carbs and intake In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2008771291.154746.1679673453159@mail.yahoo.com> The carbs are 175s and there are 4 intake runners on the manifold - so if these were originally on a Triumph it would have to be a TR4 - but these don't look like the early Strombergs that came on TR4s and the manifold doesn't look much like a TR4 manifold.I don't suppose you have the brass tags that would have been on the carbs since they're not visible in the pix - that would make it too easy :-)Can you take some side view pix of those carbs??Cheers,Jack Mc? In a message dated 3/23/2023 10:35:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, ccsimonsen at gmail.com writes:? A friend of mine gave me two Zeniths and an odd intake attached to them.?Any idea where it might belong?Thank you!?Chris** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lee at automate-it.com Fri Mar 24 10:01:11 2023 From: lee at automate-it.com (lee at automate-it.com) Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2023 11:01:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 dimmer ("master lighting switch") In-Reply-To: <001201d95e3a$7a5e1300$6f1a3900$@charter.net> References: <7707733edf52a20e9a16d7735f1d43ba@automate-it.com> <6c9b77cbe48d0d69f208c30c145c5d17@automate-it.com> <001201d95e3a$7a5e1300$6f1a3900$@charter.net> Message-ID: <58c2383a7b5b555627aeaa4ccbe01a21@automate-it.com> Yep, Alex, I've had the LiteZupp on my wishlist for a long time - this is clearly a sign to make the change now! Thanks! Lee On 2023-03-24 05:22, Alex & Janet Thomson wrote: > Why not try the LiteZupp LED conversion when you do get the dimmer > switch > situation sorted out. Much less current draw and much better light. I > also > installed their LED 1157 bulbs in the rear of our TR6 - What a > difference! > Maybe other drivers will see us braking now. > > Alex Thomson > '73 TR6 From cliff_hansen at outlook.com Fri Mar 24 10:19:46 2023 From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen) Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2023 16:19:46 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 dimmer switch In-Reply-To: fgMupdNTwwnZYfgMvpuojy.1679660286.d1524d02a10a6161ed53dec4bef75dbd.MISSINGID@comcast.net References: fgMupdNTwwnZYfgMvpuojy.1679660286.d1524d02a10a6161ed53dec4bef75dbd.MISSINGID@comcast.net Message-ID: I didn?t know about the Moss kit. I like that it doesn?t require cutting into the existing harness. I made up my own kit, with an enclosure and separate fuses for high/low beam power supplies so I can?t lose both with one blown fuse. Had I found the Moss kit I probably would have gone that route. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows From: pdqtr6 Sent: Friday, March 24, 2023 7:21 AM To: John Macartney; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 dimmer switch Just to add to this thread: if the headlight bulbs are either the halogen type or regular incandescent, consider adding a relay into the mix. The stock switch isn't up to handling the load, especially when using high beams. My old (original) switch got so hot that the plastic housing melted and the contacts would separate causing the lights to go off. You can buy the whole kit from Moss (p/n 117-515) for $35. Easy enough to install and better than factory. Sent from my Galaxy -------- Original message -------- From: John Macartney Date: 3/24/23 7:35 AM (GMT-05:00) To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 dimmer switch It?s at times like this that the use of appropriate nomenclature might be a blinding flash of the obvious? Over the years, I?ve noticed many enthusiasts willingly adopting British terminologies when it comes to their cars. So if TRF had used Headlamp Beam switch or just Headlamp dipswitch, and similarly Instrument Rheostat for panel lights, a deal of confusion could have been avoided. Sometimes it?s a lot safer on the long term to use the old wheel rather than design a new one. Just my two pence worth Jonmac Sent from a piece of electronic papyrus I found in King Tut?s tomb ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdqtr6 at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cliff_hansen at outlook.com Fri Mar 24 10:22:47 2023 From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen) Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2023 16:22:47 +0000 Subject: [TR] mystery carbs and intake In-Reply-To: <002d01d95e50$6e43c4f0$4acb4ed0$@charter.net> References: <002d01d95e50$6e43c4f0$4acb4ed0$@charter.net> Message-ID: Those small rings where the intake mates to the head at #1 and #4 bring to mind a Rootes group head. But that cross pipe manifold doesn?t look like any Sunbeam or Hillman manifold I?ve seen. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows From: Alex & Janet Thomson Sent: Friday, March 24, 2023 8:29 AM To: 'Chris Simo'; 'list Triumph' Subject: Re: [TR] mystery carbs and intake Anything other than the casting number on that manifold? Any insignias hiding in a corner? Alex Thomson From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2023 6:46 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] mystery carbs and intake A friend of mine gave me two Zeniths and an odd intake attached to them. Any idea where it might belong? Thank you! Chris -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From keithstewart at bell.net Fri Mar 24 16:02:43 2023 From: keithstewart at bell.net (keithstewart at bell.net) Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2023 18:02:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 dimmer ("master lighting switch") In-Reply-To: <6c9b77cbe48d0d69f208c30c145c5d17@automate-it.com> References: <7707733edf52a20e9a16d7735f1d43ba@automate-it.com> <6c9b77cbe48d0d69f208c30c145c5d17@automate-it.com> Message-ID: <060b01d95e9c$5be25910$13a70b30$@bell.net> Lee, I sent you a copy of the article I wrote on improving dim headlamps - also can be viewed at keith-stewart.ca. Keith -----Original Message----- From: lee at automate-it.com Sent: March 23, 2023 6:00 PM To: Triumphs ; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] TR6 dimmer ("master lighting switch") Sorry about the confusion - but the second word of my message is "headlight". Maybe "dimmer" was the wrong word - "dipper" would have been better - but TRF uses the word dimmer in the descriptions. Anyway, yes, Roger Elliot was right, I was looking at the wrong part in the TRF Green Book. So it's ordered, and maybe it won't be on backorder too long. But for now I still think I'll just bypass the switch so that I'm only low beams (or maybe only on high beams)! My headlamps are so dim that they are barely useful - and the high beams aren't nearly as bright the low-beam HID lights (with a sharp cutoff) on modern cars - whose cutoff is still too high for those of us who are seated below belt-level when driving. ;-) (And I rarely drive the TR at night anyway.) Lee From rrochlin at comcast.net Wed Mar 29 13:18:29 2023 From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2023 15:18:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Front Suspension Bushing replacement Kit Message-ID: <20A56DEF-369B-4373-BBE8-19F4781ADC88@comcast.net> In checking out my car for the spring/summer driving season, I find that the front suspension bushings are toast. I?m looking at getting the TRF urethane front suspension kit which includes new hardware. I?d be interested to know if anyone has experience with these kits (squeaking) or perhaps a better alternative. Best, Bob ?72 TR6 From dave at ranteer.com Wed Mar 29 14:06:44 2023 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2023 20:06:44 +0000 Subject: [TR] Wizard Cooling Message-ID: <0f06a213f7064c23ae9bbf1a46e02806@ranteer.com> Anyone have any experience with them? I need a new radiator and am thinking of buying one of theirs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ryel at mac.com Wed Mar 29 14:54:47 2023 From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2023 16:54:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wizard Cooling In-Reply-To: <0f06a213f7064c23ae9bbf1a46e02806@ranteer.com> References: <0f06a213f7064c23ae9bbf1a46e02806@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <415804EC-127C-4945-9C46-125059915735@mac.com> I have a wizard aluminum radiator with the built in fan, which also comes with a bung at the top for the water temp sending unit. Fit perfectly in my 1960 TR3A. I also installed a Summit Racing stainless overflow bottle https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-9135 Rye Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 29, 2023, at 4:39 PM, dave northrup wrote: > > ? > Anyone have any experience with them? I need a new radiator and am thinking of buying one of theirs > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pebarnes71 at gmail.com Wed Mar 29 15:31:27 2023 From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2023 17:31:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Front Suspension Bushing replacement Kit In-Reply-To: <20A56DEF-369B-4373-BBE8-19F4781ADC88@comcast.net> References: <20A56DEF-369B-4373-BBE8-19F4781ADC88@comcast.net> Message-ID: I just finished this same project on my car and recommend the urethane kit. It goes together easily and will certainly last longer than the rubber bushes. I used a smear of silicone grease on everything. Whether that will cut down on the squeaking, I don't know. It will be a few months until I drive the car again. Lots more work to do. Kind regards, --Phil Barnes ('71 TR6 since 1977) On Wed, Mar 29, 2023 at 3:37?PM Rochlin Robert wrote: > In checking out my car for the spring/summer driving season, I > find that the front suspension bushings are toast. I?m looking at getting > the TRF urethane front suspension kit which includes new hardware. I?d be > interested to know if anyone has experience with these kits (squeaking) or > perhaps a better alternative. > Best, > Bob > ?72 TR6 > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pebarnes71 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 75TR6 at TR6.Danielsonfamily.org Wed Mar 29 15:44:20 2023 From: 75TR6 at TR6.Danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2023 17:44:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wizard Cooling In-Reply-To: <0f06a213f7064c23ae9bbf1a46e02806@ranteer.com> References: <0f06a213f7064c23ae9bbf1a46e02806@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <0LZggk-1q8yeV3orc-00lXaV@mrelay.perfora.net> Here?s my write up on the install. I had one of the first TR6 units that they made. Small glitch that was taken care of immediately http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Radiator.htm Bob Sent from Mail for Windows From: dave northrup Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2023 4:33 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Wizard Cooling Anyone have any experience with them?? I need a new radiator and am thinking of buying one of theirs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From acstults at hushmail.com Wed Mar 29 16:08:29 2023 From: acstults at hushmail.com (Allan Stults) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2023 15:08:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wizard Cooling In-Reply-To: <415804EC-127C-4945-9C46-125059915735@mac.com> References: <0f06a213f7064c23ae9bbf1a46e02806@ranteer.com> <415804EC-127C-4945-9C46-125059915735@mac.com> Message-ID: <20230329220829.85448824CEB@smtp.hushmail.com> I replaced my original radiator with a wizard aluminum in my '62 TR3B 5 years ago. I had overheating problems when stopping at a traffic light when the temps were 90 or above. No overheating since the replacement. Even at temps approaching 100. We don't get too many days over 100 here in Oregon. Allan On 3/29/2023 at 2:29 PM, "Rye Livingston" wrote:I have a wizard aluminum radiator with the built in fan, which also comes with a bung at the top for the water temp sending unit. Fit perfectly in my 1960 TR3A. I also installed a Summit Racing stainless overflow bottle https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-9135 Rye Sent from my iPhone On Mar 29, 2023, at 4:39 PM, dave northrup wrote: ? @font-face { font-family:Calibri; } p.MsoNormal,li.MsoNormal,div.MsoNormal { font-size:11pt; font-family:Calibri, sans-serif; margin:0; } span.EmailStyle17 { font-family:Calibri, sans-serif; color:windowtext; } .MsoChpDefault { font-family:Calibri, sans-serif; } @page WordSection1 { margin:1in; } Anyone have any experience with them? I need a new radiator and am thinking of buying one of theirs ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hoytduff at gmail.com Wed Mar 29 16:25:35 2023 From: hoytduff at gmail.com (Hoyt Duff) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2023 18:25:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wizard Cooling In-Reply-To: <0LZggk-1q8yeV3orc-00lXaV@mrelay.perfora.net> References: <0f06a213f7064c23ae9bbf1a46e02806@ranteer.com> <0LZggk-1q8yeV3orc-00lXaV@mrelay.perfora.net> Message-ID: My advice would be to have an additional bung installed by a radiator shop and then install one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Martyr-CME-Engine-Anode-NPT/dp/B001448G02?th=1&psc=1 -- Hoyt From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Mar 29 17:06:25 2023 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2023 23:06:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Wizard Cooling In-Reply-To: <0f06a213f7064c23ae9bbf1a46e02806@ranteer.com> References: <0f06a213f7064c23ae9bbf1a46e02806@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <755216821.772.1680131185513@mail.yahoo.com> I bought one for my TR8 and it is well built and it doesn't cost a whole bunch more that getting your old one re-cored. Dave -----Original Message----- From: dave northrup To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Mar 29, 2023 3:06 pm Subject: [TR] Wizard Cooling Anyone have any experience with them?? I need a new radiator and am thinking of buying one of theirs ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Mar 29 17:52:47 2023 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2023 23:52:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Front Suspension Bushing replacement Kit In-Reply-To: <20A56DEF-369B-4373-BBE8-19F4781ADC88@comcast.net> References: <20A56DEF-369B-4373-BBE8-19F4781ADC88@comcast.net> Message-ID: <2034644746.1490733.1680133967463@mail.yahoo.com> mine squeek. Frank On Wednesday, March 29, 2023 at 12:36:14 PM PDT, Rochlin Robert wrote: ??? In checking out my car for the spring/summer driving season, I find that the front suspension bushings are toast.? I?m looking at getting the TRF urethane front suspension kit which includes new hardware.? I?d be interested to know if anyone has experience with these kits (squeaking) or perhaps a better alternative. ??? Best, ??? Bob ??? ?72 TR6 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From aljlthomson at charter.net Wed Mar 29 18:16:35 2023 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2023 20:16:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wizard Cooling In-Reply-To: <0LZggk-1q8yeV3orc-00lXaV@mrelay.perfora.net> References: <0f06a213f7064c23ae9bbf1a46e02806@ranteer.com> <0LZggk-1q8yeV3orc-00lXaV@mrelay.perfora.net> Message-ID: <005501d9629c$e48ebc00$adac3400$@charter.net> Bob ? You always have a great answer with the documentation. Alex Thomson From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2023 5:44 PM To: dave northrup; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Wizard Cooling Here?s my write up on the install. I had one of the first TR6 units that they made. Small glitch that was taken care of immediately http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Radiator.htm Bob Sent from Mail for Windows From: dave northrup Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2023 4:33 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Wizard Cooling Anyone have any experience with them? I need a new radiator and am thinking of buying one of theirs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Wed Mar 29 21:02:04 2023 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2023 20:02:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wizard Cooling In-Reply-To: <005501d9629c$e48ebc00$adac3400$@charter.net> References: <0f06a213f7064c23ae9bbf1a46e02806@ranteer.com> <0LZggk-1q8yeV3orc-00lXaV@mrelay.perfora.net> <005501d9629c$e48ebc00$adac3400$@charter.net> Message-ID: Quite a few Stag owners have them in their cars. You can ask them to add brackets or extra holes to match your car. Sujit On Wed, Mar 29, 2023 at 5:28?PM Alex & Janet Thomson < aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote: > Bob ? You always have a great answer with the documentation. > > > > Alex Thomson > > > > *From:* Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Bob > Danielson > *Sent:* Wednesday, March 29, 2023 5:44 PM > *To:* dave northrup; triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] Wizard Cooling > > > > Here?s my write up on the install. I had one of the first TR6 units that > they made. Small glitch that was taken care of immediately > > > > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Radiator.htm > > > > Bob > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows > > > > *From: *dave northrup > *Sent: *Wednesday, March 29, 2023 4:33 PM > *To: *triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject: *[TR] Wizard Cooling > > > > Anyone have any experience with them? I need a new radiator and am > thinking of buying one of theirs > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com > -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From keithstewart at bell.net Thu Mar 30 15:19:24 2023 From: keithstewart at bell.net (keithstewart at bell.net) Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2023 17:19:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wizard Cooling In-Reply-To: <0f06a213f7064c23ae9bbf1a46e02806@ranteer.com> References: <0f06a213f7064c23ae9bbf1a46e02806@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <122e01d9634d$4dc24830$e946d890$@bell.net> I have three of them. The first was for a TR4 (now in my TR3) and it did not have a bung hole for a thermostatic sensor. Also, the mounting brackets had it mounted too far to the rear. It was a simple matter to drill two additional holes in the rear of the flange to place the rad in the correct position, further forward. Years later, I bought a second one for my newer TR4, it had the bung for the sensor and holes forward and aft in the flanges. I bought both of these from TRF during their sales. The third I purchased for my TR4A with the electric fan installed. This one I purchased directly from Wizard. Because the fan is mounted to the rear of the radiator, the mechanical fan will have to be removed. I purchased Rick Patton's Fan Eliminator Kit (Patton Engineering) and it was an easy install. The rads themselves all work fine. If wanted, I have photos of the various installs. Just email a request. Keith Keith Stewart keithstewart at bell.net World of Triumph keith-stewart.ca From: dave northrup Sent: March 29, 2023 4:07 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Wizard Cooling Anyone have any experience with them? I need a new radiator and am thinking of buying one of theirs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From aribertn at gmail.com Thu Mar 30 21:09:29 2023 From: aribertn at gmail.com (aribert neumann) Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2023 23:09:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] How to Re-align splines in OD to mate with transmission shaft? Message-ID: What is the trick to get the two sets of OD splines completely aligned? My Bentley manual (GT6) says to use a long screwdriver - fat chance. I even milled a piece of steel flat stock to mimic two opposing splines of the trans mainshaft with a taper/lead-in on the tip. I have gently tapped the flat stock but the second set of splines is still offset by about 1/16 of an inch and does not want to rotate into alignment. I did not do any service of the OD other than to rinse and flush out the inside of the OD - not sure how the splines became misaligned. I've seen one video where someone loosens the bolts that hold the two aluminum casting housings sandwiched to the steel component to take the spring load off of the asm and make it easier to rotate the splines into alignment. My OD has been nice and dry and I really do not want to create a potential oil leak path by partially separating these three components if I do not need to. TIA - off in digest mode. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Thu Mar 30 22:36:18 2023 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2023 00:36:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] How to Re-align splines in OD to mate with transmission shaft? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Another one of those 'fun' jobs. I use a spare mainshaft? as an alignment tool.? The only way to get them lined back up without damaging something,?? you'll need to split it down to the spring bars. Two massive screw drivers,,,,you can lift the two crossbars (that the pressure pistons push on) to release clutch pressure and let you slip the shaft in to align the splines .? Don't be surprised it it's not just rotational alignment but actual? linear alignment as the annulus cup could be out of alignment ptegler When you say seperate the o/d..... are you talking just separateing the adapter or splitting it further back?? the adapter housing On 3/30/2023 11:09 PM, aribert neumann wrote: > What is the trick to get the two sets of OD splines completely > aligned?? ?My Bentley manual (GT6) says to use a long screwdriver - > fat chance.? ?I even milled a piece of steel flat stock to mimic two > opposing splines of the trans mainshaft with a taper/lead-in on the > tip.? ?I have gently tapped the flat stock but the second set of > splines is still offset? by about 1/16 of an inch and does not want to > rotate into alignment.? ?I did not do any service of the OD other than > to rinse and flush out the inside of the OD - not sure how the splines > became misaligned. > > I've seen one video where someone?loosens the bolts that hold the two > aluminum casting housings sandwiched to the steel component to take > the spring load off of the asm and make it easier to rotate the > splines into alignment.? ?My OD has been nice and dry and I really do > not want to create a potential oil leak path by partially > separating?these three components if I do not need?to. > TIA - off in digest mode. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Mar 31 05:35:15 2023 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2023 11:35:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] How to Re-align splines in OD to mate with transmission shaft? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <450992338.3379178.1680262515652@mail.yahoo.com> What model overdrive is it.? I have figured out the A-type and the J-type.? The J-type has an intermediate piece between the OD and the transmission that gets attached to the OD before being attached to the trans.? Either way the sun gear and the sprag clutch splines must be aligned with the cone clutch in the neutral position.? If it is in contact with either the ring gear or the brake ring the sun gear will not move and it must so you can align it with the sprag clutch.? Once that is done you can install the springs and the intermediate piece on the J-type and Bob's you uncle.? The A-type is more tricky.? Since there is no intermediate piece to hold the clutch in place it will drop when you invert it to drop it onto the transmission and the bevel cut gears on the planetary gear set will cause the clutch to rotate out of position.? Of course the solution is to not invert the OD but to invert the transmission and lower IT onto the OD unit.? It's a little counter-intuitive but it works. I am not familiar with the D-type but if that is what you have it is probably similar to either the A-type or the D-type. Dave -----Original Message----- From: aribert neumann To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Mar 30, 2023 10:09 pm Subject: [TR] How to Re-align splines in OD to mate with transmission shaft? What is the trick to get the two sets of OD splines completely aligned?? ?My Bentley manual (GT6) says to use a long screwdriver - fat chance.? ?I even milled a piece of steel flat stock to mimic two opposing splines of the trans mainshaft with a taper/lead-in on the tip.? ?I have gently tapped the flat stock but the second set of splines is still offset? by about 1/16 of an inch and does not want to rotate into alignment.? ?I did not do any service of the OD other than to rinse and flush out the inside of the OD - not sure how the splines became misaligned. I've seen one video where someone?loosens the bolts that hold the two aluminum casting housings sandwiched to the steel component to take the spring load off of the asm and make it easier to rotate the splines into alignment.? ?My OD has been nice and dry and I really do not want to create a potential oil leak path by partially separating?these three components if I do not need?to.TIA - off in digest mode.** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From aribertn at gmail.com Fri Mar 31 06:09:07 2023 From: aribertn at gmail.com (aribert neumann) Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2023 08:09:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] How to Re-align splines in OD to mate with transmission shaft? In-Reply-To: <450992338.3379178.1680262515652@mail.yahoo.com> References: <450992338.3379178.1680262515652@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have the D-type. Based on responses and a couple of videos I found, it appears that I need to reduce spring pressure no matter what to be able to get the splines loose enough to rotate. So it looks like I need to loosen the fasteners that secure the castings on either side of item 26. Image of D-type attached. I can just imagine another (future) oil leak. Still a bit surprised the splines shifted when all I did after removing was to pour solvent into the diff and slosh the solvent around. On Fri, Mar 31, 2023 at 7:35?AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: > What model overdrive is it. I have figured out the A-type and the > J-type. The J-type has an intermediate piece between the OD and the > transmission that gets attached to the OD before being attached to the > trans. Either way the sun gear and the sprag clutch splines must be > aligned with the cone clutch in the neutral position. If it is in contact > with either the ring gear or the brake ring the sun gear will not move and > it must so you can align it with the sprag clutch. Once that is done you > can install the springs and the intermediate piece on the J-type and Bob's > you uncle. > > The A-type is more tricky. Since there is no intermediate piece to hold > the clutch in place it will drop when you invert it to drop it onto the > transmission and the bevel cut gears on the planetary gear set will cause > the clutch to rotate out of position. Of course the solution is to not > invert the OD but to invert the transmission and lower IT onto the OD > unit. It's a little counter-intuitive but it works. > > I am not familiar with the D-type but if that is what you have it is > probably similar to either the A-type or the D-type. > > Dave > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: aribert neumann > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, Mar 30, 2023 10:09 pm > Subject: [TR] How to Re-align splines in OD to mate with transmission > shaft? > > What is the trick to get the two sets of OD splines completely aligned? > My Bentley manual (GT6) says to use a long screwdriver - fat chance. I > even milled a piece of steel flat stock to mimic two opposing splines of > the trans mainshaft with a taper/lead-in on the tip. I have gently tapped > the flat stock but the second set of splines is still offset by about 1/16 > of an inch and does not want to rotate into alignment. I did not do any > service of the OD other than to rinse and flush out the inside of the OD - > not sure how the splines became misaligned. > > I've seen one video where someone loosens the bolts that hold the two > aluminum casting housings sandwiched to the steel component to take the > spring load off of the asm and make it easier to rotate the splines into > alignment. My OD has been nice and dry and I really do not want to create > a potential oil leak path by partially separating these three components if > I do not need to. > TIA - off in digest mode. > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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