From fishplate at gmail.com  Sat Apr  1 07:28:21 2023
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2023 09:28:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] How to Re-align splines in OD to mate with transmission
 shaft?
In-Reply-To: <CAGkVM2_vx0_7hVwRAjs+W7w3Jcbc4FXGPvbMgd3rDqy6i5f7Vg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGkVM28tB788tw8kxfOuOJ1dLzgOQ5UkVjGBTtEGKixqnTPAGw@mail.gmail.com>
 <450992338.3379178.1680262515652@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAGkVM2_vx0_7hVwRAjs+W7w3Jcbc4FXGPvbMgd3rDqy6i5f7Vg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CO3=LftVmgfZCMM_av_ij1dWBRy+8rau2MLvP-YFu9GJA@mail.gmail.com>

If you have to loosen it anyway, is there any harm in completely
detaching it and replacing the gasket?

On Fri, Mar 31, 2023 at 8:25?AM aribert neumann <aribertn at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I have the D-type.   Based on responses and a couple of videos I found, it appears that I need to reduce spring pressure no matter what to be able to get the splines loose enough to rotate.  So it looks like I need to loosen the fasteners that secure the castings on either side of item 26.   Image of D-type attached.  I can just imagine another (future) oil leak.    Still a bit surprised the splines shifted when all I did after removing was to pour solvent into the diff and slosh the solvent around.
>
> On Fri, Mar 31, 2023 at 7:35?AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
>>
>> What model overdrive is it.  I have figured out the A-type and the J-type.  The J-type has an intermediate piece between the OD and the transmission that gets attached to the OD before being attached to the trans.  Either way the sun gear and the sprag clutch splines must be aligned with the cone clutch in the neutral position.  If it is in contact with either the ring gear or the brake ring the sun gear will not move and it must so you can align it with the sprag clutch.  Once that is done you can install the springs and the intermediate piece on the J-type and Bob's you uncle.
>>
>> The A-type is more tricky.  Since there is no intermediate piece to hold the clutch in place it will drop when you invert it to drop it onto the transmission and the bevel cut gears on the planetary gear set will cause the clutch to rotate out of position.  Of course the solution is to not invert the OD but to invert the transmission and lower IT onto the OD unit.  It's a little counter-intuitive but it works.
>>
>> I am not familiar with the D-type but if that is what you have it is probably similar to either the A-type or the D-type.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: aribert neumann <aribertn at gmail.com>
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Thu, Mar 30, 2023 10:09 pm
>> Subject: [TR] How to Re-align splines in OD to mate with transmission shaft?
>>
>> What is the trick to get the two sets of OD splines completely aligned?   My Bentley manual (GT6) says to use a long screwdriver - fat chance.   I even milled a piece of steel flat stock to mimic two opposing splines of the trans mainshaft with a taper/lead-in on the tip.   I have gently tapped the flat stock but the second set of splines is still offset  by about 1/16 of an inch and does not want to rotate into alignment.   I did not do any service of the OD other than to rinse and flush out the inside of the OD - not sure how the splines became misaligned.
>>
>> I've seen one video where someone loosens the bolts that hold the two aluminum casting housings sandwiched to the steel component to take the spring load off of the asm and make it easier to rotate the splines into alignment.   My OD has been nice and dry and I really do not want to create a potential oil leak path by partially separating these three components if I do not need to.
>> TIA - off in digest mode.
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Sat Apr  1 08:55:58 2023
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2023 09:55:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Greenville Triumph SC (cross post from TR Register UK forum)
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFACpJXG5YfFAEsZQZ6Z6T8K+Ky_GKqAbnf2DJGc7bZmBg@mail.gmail.com>

See the video for some insight into the build.
https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/82572-triumph-mascot/
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From aribertn at gmail.com  Sat Apr  1 19:09:32 2023
From: aribertn at gmail.com (aribert neumann)
Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2023 21:09:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] How to Re-align splines in OD to mate with transmission
 shaft?
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CO3=LftVmgfZCMM_av_ij1dWBRy+8rau2MLvP-YFu9GJA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGkVM28tB788tw8kxfOuOJ1dLzgOQ5UkVjGBTtEGKixqnTPAGw@mail.gmail.com>
 <450992338.3379178.1680262515652@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAGkVM2_vx0_7hVwRAjs+W7w3Jcbc4FXGPvbMgd3rDqy6i5f7Vg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAO8Q7CO3=LftVmgfZCMM_av_ij1dWBRy+8rau2MLvP-YFu9GJA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGkVM28wQrFQNGY0YU03XVVEaPS3=W0Bp9aHbe=i_w76M4k_5g@mail.gmail.com>

I was able to easily align the splines once I backed off the nuts a bit
(only about 3/16 of an inch gap).  Once I had the gap I just wiggled my
"spline" tool to get alignment and then lifted the OD and lowered it over
the mainshaft (trans was sitting on the bellhousing with the mainshaft
pointing straight up.    I used an artist's brush to try to get a coating
of permatex gasket sealer into the gap (there is no gasket in this joint).



On Sat, Apr 1, 2023 at 9:29?AM Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:

> If you have to loosen it anyway, is there any harm in completely
> detaching it and replacing the gasket?
>
> On Fri, Mar 31, 2023 at 8:25?AM aribert neumann <aribertn at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > I have the D-type.   Based on responses and a couple of videos I found,
> it appears that I need to reduce spring pressure no matter what to be able
> to get the splines loose enough to rotate.  So it looks like I need to
> loosen the fasteners that secure the castings on either side of item 26.
>  Image of D-type attached.  I can just imagine another (future) oil leak.
>   Still a bit surprised the splines shifted when all I did after removing
> was to pour solvent into the diff and slosh the solvent around.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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From lee at automate-it.com  Sun Apr  2 15:42:25 2023
From: lee at automate-it.com (lee at automate-it.com)
Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2023 16:42:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone else to
 do it
Message-ID: <b0dcae9920e2ad8c4975246fbea523b4@automate-it.com>

I'm replacing the dash on my '74 TR6. The gauges/speedo/tach all work 
(maybe not terribly accurate tho!). But, wow, they're pretty grimy 
compared to this shiny new wood dash I've got. What's left of the 
o-rings is cracked and crumbled. With a little encouragement I can get 
the speedo and tach open - but how does one safely open up the 
fuel/temp/oil/volts gauges?

The other option is to send them to a restoration shop (there are 
several that show up in a search; note that Nisonger is no longer doing 
repairs but selling replacement units only). Any idea what a 
clean-up/check-up would cost for these 6 units? I've got a huge list of 
other things to work on rather than spend the time on these things.
Thanks!
  Lee
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From ptegler at verizon.net  Sun Apr  2 17:30:05 2023
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2023 19:30:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone
 else to do it
In-Reply-To: <b0dcae9920e2ad8c4975246fbea523b4@automate-it.com>
References: <b0dcae9920e2ad8c4975246fbea523b4@automate-it.com>
Message-ID: <6fec1e7b-5143-4a94-3ca1-ceb794bf5e19@verizon.net>

they all open the same way... twsit to line up the crimp over of the 
chrome trim ring to the body cut outs. The problem is the old o-rings 
dry out and basically glue them in place.
Replacement o-rings are avail for hte glasss to body and rinf to glass 
interfaces? (as well as gauges to dashboard. ) cleaning them up is not 
had,just take your time.

ptegler

On 4/2/2023 5:42 PM, lee at automate-it.com wrote:
> I'm replacing the dash on my '74 TR6. The gauges/speedo/tach all work 
> (maybe not terribly accurate tho!). But, wow, they're pretty grimy 
> compared to this shiny new wood dash I've got. What's left of the 
> o-rings is cracked and crumbled. With a little encouragement I can get 
> the speedo and tach open - but how does one safely open up the 
> fuel/temp/oil/volts gauges?
>
> The other option is to send them to a restoration shop (there are 
> several that show up in a search; note that Nisonger is no longer 
> doing repairs but selling replacement units only). Any idea what a 
> clean-up/check-up would cost for these 6 units? I've got a huge list 
> of other things to work on rather than spend the time on these things.
> Thanks!
> ?Lee
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net

-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com


From triumphstag at gmail.com  Sun Apr  2 18:05:02 2023
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2023 17:05:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone
 else to do it
In-Reply-To: <b0dcae9920e2ad8c4975246fbea523b4@automate-it.com>
References: <b0dcae9920e2ad8c4975246fbea523b4@automate-it.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaFq=1A9LZ9b0BuA-7iM3xNu3+prdb-kOjruVCA1sDNkyQ@mail.gmail.com>

I swapped a bezel on a small smiths oil gauge.  I used the same technique
as the larger gauges
Sujit

On Sun, Apr 2, 2023, 2:52 PM <lee at automate-it.com> wrote:

> I'm replacing the dash on my '74 TR6. The gauges/speedo/tach all work
> (maybe not terribly accurate tho!). But, wow, they're pretty grimy
> compared to this shiny new wood dash I've got. What's left of the
> o-rings is cracked and crumbled. With a little encouragement I can get
> the speedo and tach open - but how does one safely open up the
> fuel/temp/oil/volts gauges?
>
> The other option is to send them to a restoration shop (there are
> several that show up in a search; note that Nisonger is no longer doing
> repairs but selling replacement units only). Any idea what a
> clean-up/check-up would cost for these 6 units? I've got a huge list of
> other things to work on rather than spend the time on these things.
> Thanks!
>   Lee** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>
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From 75TR6 at TR6.Danielsonfamily.org  Sun Apr  2 18:31:06 2023
From: 75TR6 at TR6.Danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2023 20:31:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone
 else todo it
In-Reply-To: <b0dcae9920e2ad8c4975246fbea523b4@automate-it.com>
References: <b0dcae9920e2ad8c4975246fbea523b4@automate-it.com>
Message-ID: <1N5FYf-1qSjuh34rN-011DEH@mrelay.perfora.net>

Contact Morris Mintz  at West Valley https://www.westvalleyinstruments.com/

He?ll quote you a price based on what you need done and then he?ll confirm the price once he gets the gauges.

He converted my tach to electronic and my speedometer to GPS. Then he had his ?artist? repaint my dash faces in Magnolia. Beautiful work and craftsmanship.

If your speedo need calibration he?ll ask you to do this before sending them out http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm 

Bob Danielson



Sent from Mail for Windows

From: lee at automate-it.com
Sent: Sunday, April 2, 2023 5:42 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone else todo it

I'm replacing the dash on my '74 TR6. The gauges/speedo/tach all work 
(maybe not terribly accurate tho!). But, wow, they're pretty grimy 
compared to this shiny new wood dash I've got. What's left of the 
o-rings is cracked and crumbled. With a little encouragement I can get 
the speedo and tach open - but how does one safely open up the 
fuel/temp/oil/volts gauges?

The other option is to send them to a restoration shop (there are 
several that show up in a search; note that Nisonger is no longer doing 
repairs but selling replacement units only). Any idea what a 
clean-up/check-up would cost for these 6 units? I've got a huge list of 
other things to work on rather than spend the time on these things.
Thanks!
  Lee

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From grglmn at gmail.com  Sun Apr  2 18:58:39 2023
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2023 19:58:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone
 else to do it
In-Reply-To: <b0dcae9920e2ad8c4975246fbea523b4@automate-it.com>
References: <b0dcae9920e2ad8c4975246fbea523b4@automate-it.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aaxvAtc-DTpReP-H-z=KOMY2WjKGqk6O+EGLboHO+Y6ow@mail.gmail.com>

I cleaned up the gauges on my TR250 myself.  I believe the small gauges
come apart the same way as the big ones.  Loosen some tabs and twist so the
tabs line up with the slots to pull it off.  Clean glass as you would clean
glass.  Gauge faces and dials.  Gentle is the word, wipe  with a damp, soft
cloth.  There will probably be crud inside, and the interior paint may be
flaking, repaint with white paint.

The bezels, mine were painted black, so I repainted them black satin.
Looks like yours are chrome, would give the a vigorous polish and see how
they turn out.

A completely refinished gauge face is way beyond my skillet, but I read up
on a guy who DIYed it and fixed his gauges at home.  I will tackle a lot,
but really can't imagine doing that and having it turn out well.

Sorry, not a very good pic, but all zi could find.

Greg Lemon
TR250



On Sun, Apr 2, 2023, 4:43 PM <lee at automate-it.com> wrote:

> I'm replacing the dash on my '74 TR6. The gauges/speedo/tach all work
> (maybe not terribly accurate tho!). But, wow, they're pretty grimy
> compared to this shiny new wood dash I've got. What's left of the
> o-rings is cracked and crumbled. With a little encouragement I can get
> the speedo and tach open - but how does one safely open up the
> fuel/temp/oil/volts gauges?
>
> The other option is to send them to a restoration shop (there are
> several that show up in a search; note that Nisonger is no longer doing
> repairs but selling replacement units only). Any idea what a
> clean-up/check-up would cost for these 6 units? I've got a huge list of
> other things to work on rather than spend the time on these things.
> Thanks!
>   Lee** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From grglmn at gmail.com  Sun Apr  2 19:01:06 2023
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2023 20:01:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone
 else to do it
In-Reply-To: <b0dcae9920e2ad8c4975246fbea523b4@automate-it.com>
References: <b0dcae9920e2ad8c4975246fbea523b4@automate-it.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aY9Ppv3fMTstSur1LOzQqByHTSD0SzBBAZ8OMb4cWA-ag@mail.gmail.com>

Forgot to mention, I think you can get the large o-rings from Moss and
other suppliers.

On Sun, Apr 2, 2023, 4:43 PM <lee at automate-it.com> wrote:

> I'm replacing the dash on my '74 TR6. The gauges/speedo/tach all work
> (maybe not terribly accurate tho!). But, wow, they're pretty grimy
> compared to this shiny new wood dash I've got. What's left of the
> o-rings is cracked and crumbled. With a little encouragement I can get
> the speedo and tach open - but how does one safely open up the
> fuel/temp/oil/volts gauges?
>
> The other option is to send them to a restoration shop (there are
> several that show up in a search; note that Nisonger is no longer doing
> repairs but selling replacement units only). Any idea what a
> clean-up/check-up would cost for these 6 units? I've got a huge list of
> other things to work on rather than spend the time on these things.
> Thanks!
>   Lee** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From lee at automate-it.com  Sun Apr  2 19:06:54 2023
From: lee at automate-it.com (lee at automate-it.com)
Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2023 20:06:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone
 else todo it
In-Reply-To: <1N5FYf-1qSjuh34rN-011DEH@mrelay.perfora.net>
References: <b0dcae9920e2ad8c4975246fbea523b4@automate-it.com>
 <1N5FYf-1qSjuh34rN-011DEH@mrelay.perfora.net>
Message-ID: <ebeb1bb11046b650cd8d7d2590c0bf5c@automate-it.com>

Wow, Bob, no matter what, those gauges are gorgeous. Thanks for the 
reference, and for the info on calibration.

Lee

On 2023-04-02 19:31, Bob Danielson wrote:

> Contact Morris Mintz  at West Valley 
> https://www.westvalleyinstruments.com/
> 
> He'll quote you a price based on what you need done and then he'll 
> confirm the price once he gets the gauges.
> 
> He converted my tach to electronic and my speedometer to GPS. Then he 
> had his "artist" repaint my dash faces in Magnolia. Beautiful work and 
> craftsmanship.
> 
> If your speedo need calibration he'll ask you to do this before sending 
> them out http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm
> 
> Bob Danielson
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Apr  2 19:22:03 2023
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2023 01:22:03 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone
 else todo it
In-Reply-To: <1N5FYf-1qSjuh34rN-011DEH@mrelay.perfora.net>
References: <b0dcae9920e2ad8c4975246fbea523b4@automate-it.com>,
 <1N5FYf-1qSjuh34rN-011DEH@mrelay.perfora.net>
Message-ID: <de328ed4436e4aa593ebc7673dc4d418@ranteer.com>

+1 on morris.  He's the best


-------- Original message --------
From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at TR6.Danielsonfamily.org>
Date: 4/2/23 8:02 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: lee at automate-it.com, Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone else todo it

Contact Morris Mintz  at West Valley https://www.westvalleyinstruments.com/

He?ll quote you a price based on what you need done and then he?ll confirm the price once he gets the gauges.

He converted my tach to electronic and my speedometer to GPS. Then he had his ?artist? repaint my dash faces in Magnolia. Beautiful work and craftsmanship.

If your speedo need calibration he?ll ask you to do this before sending them out http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm

Bob Danielson



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: lee at automate-it.com<mailto:lee at automate-it.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 2, 2023 5:42 PM
To: Triumphs<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone else todo it

I'm replacing the dash on my '74 TR6. The gauges/speedo/tach all work
(maybe not terribly accurate tho!). But, wow, they're pretty grimy
compared to this shiny new wood dash I've got. What's left of the
o-rings is cracked and crumbled. With a little encouragement I can get
the speedo and tach open - but how does one safely open up the
fuel/temp/oil/volts gauges?

The other option is to send them to a restoration shop (there are
several that show up in a search; note that Nisonger is no longer doing
repairs but selling replacement units only). Any idea what a
clean-up/check-up would cost for these 6 units? I've got a huge list of
other things to work on rather than spend the time on these things.
Thanks!
  Lee

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From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Sun Apr  2 19:34:07 2023
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2023 20:34:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone
 else to do it
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aaxvAtc-DTpReP-H-z=KOMY2WjKGqk6O+EGLboHO+Y6ow@mail.gmail.com>
References: <b0dcae9920e2ad8c4975246fbea523b4@automate-it.com>
 <CAFtw3aaxvAtc-DTpReP-H-z=KOMY2WjKGqk6O+EGLboHO+Y6ow@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFAJboxRP_KaZCKodbi+7hnoH5TAJcTWweyG6RSvvaq1eg@mail.gmail.com>

Note that a small wad of wet aluminum foil is just about *perfect* for
cleaning chrome plating to a high, scratch-free shine.  It's quite
remarkable how well it works if the plating itself is intact.  Try that on
your gauge bezels, Lee, and let us know how they look.

On Sun, Apr 2, 2023 at 8:15?PM Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com> wrote:

> I cleaned up the gauges on my TR250 myself.  I believe the small gauges
> come apart the same way as the big ones.  Loosen some tabs and twist so the
> tabs line up with the slots to pull it off.  Clean glass as you would clean
> glass.  Gauge faces and dials.  Gentle is the word, wipe  with a damp, soft
> cloth.  There will probably be crud inside, and the interior paint may be
> flaking, repaint with white paint.
>
> The bezels, mine were painted black, so I repainted them black satin.
> Looks like yours are chrome, would give the a vigorous polish and see how
> they turn out.
>
> A completely refinished gauge face is way beyond my skillet, but I read up
> on a guy who DIYed it and fixed his gauges at home.  I will tackle a lot,
> but really can't imagine doing that and having it turn out well.
>
> Sorry, not a very good pic, but all zi could find.
>
> Greg Lemon
> TR250
>
>
>
> On Sun, Apr 2, 2023, 4:43 PM <lee at automate-it.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm replacing the dash on my '74 TR6. The gauges/speedo/tach all work
>> (maybe not terribly accurate tho!). But, wow, they're pretty grimy
>> compared to this shiny new wood dash I've got. What's left of the
>> o-rings is cracked and crumbled. With a little encouragement I can get
>> the speedo and tach open - but how does one safely open up the
>> fuel/temp/oil/volts gauges?
>>
>> The other option is to send them to a restoration shop (there are
>> several that show up in a search; note that Nisonger is no longer doing
>> repairs but selling replacement units only). Any idea what a
>> clean-up/check-up would cost for these 6 units? I've got a huge list of
>> other things to work on rather than spend the time on these things.
>> Thanks!
>>   Lee** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com
>
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From sackirby at chinaautogroup.com  Sun Apr  2 19:53:22 2023
From: sackirby at chinaautogroup.com (Steve Kirby)
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2023 01:53:22 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone
 else todo it
In-Reply-To: <1N5FYf-1qSjuh34rN-011DEH@mrelay.perfora.net>
References: <1N5FYf-1qSjuh34rN-011DEH@mrelay.perfora.net>
Message-ID: <E43751D8-3CB0-48ED-AFF9-6E49087C3F95@chinaautogroup.com>

Morris is the best.  But plan on waiting at least six months.

Steve Kirby

On Apr 2, 2023, at 5:47 PM, Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:

?
Contact Morris Mintz  at West Valley https://www.westvalleyinstruments.com/

He?ll quote you a price based on what you need done and then he?ll confirm the price once he gets the gauges.

He converted my tach to electronic and my speedometer to GPS. Then he had his ?artist? repaint my dash faces in Magnolia. Beautiful work and craftsmanship.

If your speedo need calibration he?ll ask you to do this before sending them out http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm

Bob Danielson



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: lee at automate-it.com<mailto:lee at automate-it.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 2, 2023 5:42 PM
To: Triumphs<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone else todo it

I'm replacing the dash on my '74 TR6. The gauges/speedo/tach all work
(maybe not terribly accurate tho!). But, wow, they're pretty grimy
compared to this shiny new wood dash I've got. What's left of the
o-rings is cracked and crumbled. With a little encouragement I can get
the speedo and tach open - but how does one safely open up the
fuel/temp/oil/volts gauges?

The other option is to send them to a restoration shop (there are
several that show up in a search; note that Nisonger is no longer doing
repairs but selling replacement units only). Any idea what a
clean-up/check-up would cost for these 6 units? I've got a huge list of
other things to work on rather than spend the time on these things.
Thanks!
  Lee

<P1100157 (Small).JPG>
<P1100158 (Small).JPG>
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sackirby at pacbell.net
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From 75TR6 at TR6.Danielsonfamily.org  Sun Apr  2 20:13:34 2023
From: 75TR6 at TR6.Danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2023 22:13:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone
 elsetodo it
In-Reply-To: <E43751D8-3CB0-48ED-AFF9-6E49087C3F95@chinaautogroup.com>
References: <1N5FYf-1qSjuh34rN-011DEH@mrelay.perfora.net>
 <E43751D8-3CB0-48ED-AFF9-6E49087C3F95@chinaautogroup.com>
Message-ID: <1Mzh89-1qeojH1s01-00veqZ@mrelay.perfora.net>

Wow? he?s that busy now?!? Last time I used him was 5 years ago and it was 6 weeks? and he delivered on time.

Sent from Mail for Windows

From: Steve Kirby
Sent: Sunday, April 2, 2023 9:53 PM
To: Bob Danielson
Cc: lee at automate-it.com; Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone elsetodo it

Morris is the best. ?But plan on waiting at least six months.
Steve Kirby


On Apr 2, 2023, at 5:47 PM, Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:
? 
Contact Morris Mintz ?at West Valley https://www.westvalleyinstruments.com/
?
He?ll quote you a price based on what you need done and then he?ll confirm the price once he gets the gauges.
?
He converted my tach to electronic and my speedometer to GPS. Then he had his ?artist? repaint my dash faces in Magnolia. Beautiful work and craftsmanship.
?
If your speedo need calibration he?ll ask you to do this before sending them out http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm 
?
Bob Danielson
?
?
?
Sent from Mail for Windows
?
From: lee at automate-it.com
Sent: Sunday, April 2, 2023 5:42 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone else todo it
?
I'm replacing the dash on my '74 TR6. The gauges/speedo/tach all work 
(maybe not terribly accurate tho!). But, wow, they're pretty grimy 
compared to this shiny new wood dash I've got. What's left of the 
o-rings is cracked and crumbled. With a little encouragement I can get 
the speedo and tach open - but how does one safely open up the 
fuel/temp/oil/volts gauges?
?
The other option is to send them to a restoration shop (there are 
several that show up in a search; note that Nisonger is no longer doing 
repairs but selling replacement units only). Any idea what a 
clean-up/check-up would cost for these 6 units? I've got a huge list of 
other things to work on rather than spend the time on these things.
Thanks!
? Lee
?
<P1100157 (Small).JPG>
<P1100158 (Small).JPG>
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs ?http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sackirby at pacbell.net

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Sun Apr  2 21:11:50 2023
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2023 22:11:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone
 else to do it
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFAJboxRP_KaZCKodbi+7hnoH5TAJcTWweyG6RSvvaq1eg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFAJboxRP_KaZCKodbi+7hnoH5TAJcTWweyG6RSvvaq1eg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <89694E3E-823B-4B6E-A4A9-1A101C8F9852@yahoo.com>

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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Mon Apr  3 06:01:24 2023
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Robert Rochlin)
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2023 08:01:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] Front Suspension Bushing replacement Kit
Message-ID: <0D5115A9-9F03-4890-8FD5-4A1007D40251@comcast.net>

Hi Everyone,
	Thanks so much to everyone for your great advice as to the replacement bushings for my TR6.  
	The company that provided my last set of bushings is Polybush in the UK. I re-bushed the whole car with their product and 100% of those bushings have failed including the rear swing arm bushings and the steering rack bushings in about 25,000 miles. I replaced the swing arm bushings last winter and I?m going to have to replace, at minimum, the steering rack bushings before this driving season.  I?m going to try to put off the rest of the front end bushings until this driving season is over.  I?ve ordered a set new polyurethane bushes from British Parts Northwest and expect to have them in a couple of days. 
	Best,
	Bob
	?72 TR6

From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Apr  3 07:11:04 2023
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2023 13:11:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Front Suspension Bushing replacement Kit
In-Reply-To: <0D5115A9-9F03-4890-8FD5-4A1007D40251@comcast.net>
References: <0D5115A9-9F03-4890-8FD5-4A1007D40251@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1081183697.4412841.1680527464287@mail.yahoo.com>

 FWIW, I installed poly bushing from TSI over 25 years ago and they are still in good shape.? It makes for a harsher ride over the rubber but the suspension geometry is more accurate and reliable.
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Rochlin <rrochlin at comcast.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Apr 3, 2023 7:01 am
Subject: [6pack] Front Suspension Bushing replacement Kit

Hi Everyone,
??? Thanks so much to everyone for your great advice as to the replacement bushings for my TR6.? 
??? The company that provided my last set of bushings is Polybush in the UK. I re-bushed the whole car with their product and 100% of those bushings have failed including the rear swing arm bushings and the steering rack bushings in about 25,000 miles. I replaced the swing arm bushings last winter and I?m going to have to replace, at minimum, the steering rack bushings before this driving season.? I?m going to try to put off the rest of the front end bushings until this driving season is over.? I?ve ordered a set new polyurethane bushes from British Parts Northwest and expect to have them in a couple of days. 
??? Best,
??? Bob
??? ?72 TR6
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com

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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Apr  3 17:50:53 2023
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (yellowtr at adelphia.net)
Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2023 19:50:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] question
Message-ID: <d038fbfb-15bd-1440-30db-6c7f00f3a6b4@roadrunner.com>

This is for Mr. B.

Is it ok to post a link to a craiglist add for my 6? Dont want to break 
any rules.

Thanks,

Bob


From fishplate at gmail.com  Tue Apr  4 04:47:24 2023
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2023 06:47:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone
 else to do it
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aY9Ppv3fMTstSur1LOzQqByHTSD0SzBBAZ8OMb4cWA-ag@mail.gmail.com>
References: <b0dcae9920e2ad8c4975246fbea523b4@automate-it.com>
 <CAFtw3aY9Ppv3fMTstSur1LOzQqByHTSD0SzBBAZ8OMb4cWA-ag@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CPkrJsRAoSLYCO+1L_zj7Gq7Egfx+LVNZt65iyHm7ZjYQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Apr 2, 2023, 21:42 Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com> wrote:

> Forgot to mention, I think you can get the large o-rings from Moss and
> other suppliers
>

I recall that there is one type of o-ring for the glass and another between
the instrument and the dash.

>
>
>
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From ptegler at verizon.net  Tue Apr  4 06:17:32 2023
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2023 08:17:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone
 else to do it
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CPkrJsRAoSLYCO+1L_zj7Gq7Egfx+LVNZt65iyHm7ZjYQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <b0dcae9920e2ad8c4975246fbea523b4@automate-it.com>
 <CAFtw3aY9Ppv3fMTstSur1LOzQqByHTSD0SzBBAZ8OMb4cWA-ag@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAO8Q7CPkrJsRAoSLYCO+1L_zj7Gq7Egfx+LVNZt65iyHm7ZjYQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <73a3eb59-8387-3345-08d5-01fe3b344b1d@verizon.net>

round and sqaure cross-sections

ptegler


On 4/4/2023 6:47 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
>
>
> On Sun, Apr 2, 2023, 21:42 Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>     Forgot to mention, I think you can get the large o-rings from Moss
>     and other suppliers
>
>
> I recall that there is one type of o-ring for the glass and another 
> between the instrument and the dash.
>
>
>
>
> **triumphs at autox.team.net  **
>
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs   http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net

-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net   www.teglerizer.com
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From dave at ranteer.com  Tue Apr  4 09:01:53 2023
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2023 15:01:53 +0000
Subject: [TR] FYI
Message-ID: <7b664d038233450eb7fc3e7a0372b642@ranteer.com>

Barrie Robinson now supplies exceptionally high quality rubber O-rings used in Smith and Jaeger gauges used on several cars - particularly British ones.  A complete range is available including the square sectioned ones, as well sponge rubber ones for excellent insulating between glass and gauge body.  Barrie does not claim to be the cheapest on the market but rather aims to provide satisfaction over many years when dashes are subject to detrimental conditions such as fierce sunlight. Further information is available from barrob at bell.net<mailto:barrob at bell.net>

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From lee at automate-it.com  Tue Apr  4 14:01:56 2023
From: lee at automate-it.com (lee at automate-it.com)
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2023 15:01:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone
 else to do it
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CPkrJsRAoSLYCO+1L_zj7Gq7Egfx+LVNZt65iyHm7ZjYQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <b0dcae9920e2ad8c4975246fbea523b4@automate-it.com>
 <CAFtw3aY9Ppv3fMTstSur1LOzQqByHTSD0SzBBAZ8OMb4cWA-ag@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAO8Q7CPkrJsRAoSLYCO+1L_zj7Gq7Egfx+LVNZt65iyHm7ZjYQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a6fdaa17bfadaf173cbdf185347e5434@automate-it.com>

I've decided to do the work on these gauges myself. They are all in 
relatively good shape and work as expected. I have the o-rings that go 
between the dash and the gauges (very cheap from Moss, and in stock).

The concave side of the bezels contains a hard, shriveled-up ring of 
black goop (photo 1) - and all of them have shrunk away from the glass, 
so there's been no contact between the black stuff and the glass for a 
long time, i.e. the bezels have been in direct contact with the glass. 
Which begs whether the gaskets/rings are necessary or not. But I'll 
probably figure out something to put in there. It doesn't have to cover 
the entire circle, so if I can find o-rings that are close I can just 
cut to fit.

Also note the bezel paint scheme (photo 2) - black on the surface 
directly surrounding the gauge face and chrome on the outside surface - 
and I've seen this on a lot of TR6's, apparently done this way for a 
while. The painted surfaces are in good shape, I'll try just a gentle 
clean-up; and I'll see if I can carefully polish the chrome edge - 
staying away from the painted surface.

Lee

On 2023-04-04 05:47, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:

> On Sun, Apr 2, 2023, 21:42 Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>> Forgot to mention, I think you can get the large o-rings from Moss and 
>> other suppliers
> 
> I recall that there is one type of o-ring for the glass and another 
> between the instrument and the dash.
> 
>> 
> 
>> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lee at automate-it.com
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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Apr  5 06:03:16 2023
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (yellowtr at adelphia.net)
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2023 08:03:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] CL ad
Message-ID: <d667ef2e-d1c9-10b9-5dd4-322c47677a89@roadrunner.com>

Hello,

I did not get any No's from the list so here is a link to my 72 6.

I am getting older by the day and the driving season here in Central NY 
seems to be getting shorter every year. Still will have the 3 and 4 though.

Thanks,

Bob

https://utica.craigslist.org/cto/d/utica-1972-triumph-tr6/7606269281.html


From lee at automate-it.com  Wed Apr  5 20:43:40 2023
From: lee at automate-it.com (lee at automate-it.com)
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2023 21:43:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] CL ad
In-Reply-To: <d667ef2e-d1c9-10b9-5dd4-322c47677a89@roadrunner.com>
References: <d667ef2e-d1c9-10b9-5dd4-322c47677a89@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <059538b482cf955fdea325651ceb08ae@automate-it.com>

Wow, it's beautiful, Bob. And I think that's a very attractive price. 
Good thing I'm a three-days drive away. ;-)

(Although I'll be in Albany on business for a couple of days this 
summer.)
  Lee

On 2023-04-05 07:03, yellowtr at adelphia.net wrote:
> Hello,
> 
> I did not get any No's from the list so here is a link to my 72 6.
> 
> I am getting older by the day and the driving season here in Central
> NY seems to be getting shorter every year. Still will have the 3 and 4
> though.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bob
> 
> https://utica.craigslist.org/cto/d/utica-1972-triumph-tr6/7606269281.html
> 

From lee at automate-it.com  Wed Apr  5 20:46:46 2023
From: lee at automate-it.com (lee at automate-it.com)
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2023 21:46:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6: cleaning up speedo/tach/gauges vs. paying someone
 else to do it
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFAJboxRP_KaZCKodbi+7hnoH5TAJcTWweyG6RSvvaq1eg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <b0dcae9920e2ad8c4975246fbea523b4@automate-it.com>
 <CAFtw3aaxvAtc-DTpReP-H-z=KOMY2WjKGqk6O+EGLboHO+Y6ow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPK7CFAJboxRP_KaZCKodbi+7hnoH5TAJcTWweyG6RSvvaq1eg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000c87060555a250a081692a83196ec6@automate-it.com>

Don - your aluminum foil trick works great! Here's a before and after on 
the first one I tried - beautiful.

  Lee

On 2023-04-02 20:34, Don Hiscock wrote:

> Note that a small wad of wet aluminum foil is just about *perfect* for 
> cleaning chrome plating to a high, scratch-free shine.  It's quite 
> remarkable how well it works if the plating itself is intact.  Try that 
> on your gauge bezels, Lee, and let us know how they look.
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Apr  6 05:41:32 2023
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2023 11:41:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] CL ad
In-Reply-To: <d667ef2e-d1c9-10b9-5dd4-322c47677a89@roadrunner.com>
References: <d667ef2e-d1c9-10b9-5dd4-322c47677a89@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <2019472223.353381.1680781292486@mail.yahoo.com>

 Beautiful car.? Good luck with your sale.? Like you I am trying to thin the herd.? We frequently hear stories of widows left with a garage full of cars and parts that need to be moved and quickly.? It is better to unload this stuff in a more gradual manner.
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; six pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Apr 5, 2023 7:03 am
Subject: [TR] CL ad

Hello,

I did not get any No's from the list so here is a link to my 72 6.

I am getting older by the day and the driving season here in Central NY 
seems to be getting shorter every year. Still will have the 3 and 4 though.

Thanks,

Bob

https://utica.craigslist.org/cto/d/utica-1972-triumph-tr6/7606269281.html

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Apr  6 06:41:57 2023
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (yellowtr at adelphia.net)
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2023 08:41:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] CL ad
In-Reply-To: <da37fdf7-91ab-f374-0adf-6c6149434cfd@roadrunner.com>
References: <da37fdf7-91ab-f374-0adf-6c6149434cfd@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <f20cb8f0-18a8-5ea8-dafc-7d71a4c3e08e@roadrunner.com>

Dave,

 ?I have been taking my parts stash up to 
https://britishautosalvage.com/index.html the past few years. I am 
finished with restoring and my cars are in perfect running order. The 
owner inherited the yard with all its wrecks and salvaged parts. Nice 
guy. I will be taking more and more there as time goes by.

He has offered me $ to pay for my travel etc. but I refuse. My hope is 
that younger guys will take up the hobby and maintain our beloved 
Triumphs long after we are gone.

Bob

On 4/6/23 7:41 AM, DAVID MASSEY wrote:
> Beautiful car.? Good luck with your sale.? Like you I am trying to 
> thin the herd.? We frequently hear stories of widows left with a 
> garage full of cars and parts that need to be moved and quickly.? It 
> is better to unload this stuff in a more gradual manner.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: yellowtr at adelphia.net
> To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; six pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, Apr 5, 2023 7:03 am
> Subject: [TR] CL ad
>
> Hello,
>
> I did not get any No's from the list so here is a link to my 72 6.
>
> I am getting older by the day and the driving season here in Central NY
> seems to be getting shorter every year. Still will have the 3 and 4 
> though.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
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From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Apr  6 08:06:21 2023
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2023 14:06:21 +0000
Subject: [TR] CL ad
In-Reply-To: <2019472223.353381.1680781292486@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <d667ef2e-d1c9-10b9-5dd4-322c47677a89@roadrunner.com>
 <2019472223.353381.1680781292486@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5377413b7d3346f4a86426a61d6322f1@ranteer.com>

Yes!  I sold 2 cars last year and am selling another soon.  Will be down to just 2 LBCs, which my son very much wants to keep.  One is already in his name; the other is in both our names.  btw he is 32 and has been working on old British cars since he was 10.  My daughter wants none of it, but she very much wants the 350Z convertible, which is ok with my son.

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of DAVID MASSEY
Sent: Thursday, April 6, 2023 6:42 AM
To: yellowtr at adelphia.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] CL ad

Beautiful car.  Good luck with your sale.  Like you I am trying to thin the herd.  We frequently hear stories of widows left with a garage full of cars and parts that need to be moved and quickly.  It is better to unload this stuff in a more gradual manner.

Dave




-----Original Message-----
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net<mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>; six pack <6pack at autox.team.net<mailto:6pack at autox.team.net>>
Sent: Wed, Apr 5, 2023 7:03 am
Subject: [TR] CL ad
Hello,

I did not get any No's from the list so here is a link to my 72 6.

I am getting older by the day and the driving season here in Central NY
seems to be getting shorter every year. Still will have the 3 and 4 though.

Thanks,

Bob

https://utica.craigslist.org/cto/d/utica-1972-triumph-tr6/7606269281.html

** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Apr  6 09:57:40 2023
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2023 15:57:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] CL ad
In-Reply-To: <da37fdf7-91ab-f374-0adf-6c6149434cfd@roadrunner.com>
References: <d667ef2e-d1c9-10b9-5dd4-322c47677a89@roadrunner.com>
 <2019472223.353381.1680781292486@mail.yahoo.com>
 <da37fdf7-91ab-f374-0adf-6c6149434cfd@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <972833879.449442.1680796660575@mail.yahoo.com>

 Cool.? Too bad I'm 800 miles away.? I guess I could palletize a bunch of parts and ship it.
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob <yellowtr at roadrunner.com>
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Apr 6, 2023 7:39 am
Subject: Re: [TR] CL ad

 Dave, ?I have been taking my parts stash up to https://britishautosalvage.com/index.html the past few years. I am finished with restoring and my cars are in perfect running order. The owner inherited the yard with all its wrecks and salvaged parts. Nice guy. I will be taking more and more there as time goes by. 
  He has offered me $ to pay for my travel etc. but I refuse. My hope is that younger guys will take up the hobby and maintain our beloved Triumphs long after we are gone. 
  Bob
  On 4/6/23 7:41 AM, DAVID MASSEY wrote:
  
 
  Beautiful car.? Good luck with your sale.? Like you I am trying to thin the herd.? We frequently hear stories of widows left with a garage full of cars and parts that need to be moved and quickly.? It is better to unload this stuff in a more gradual manner.
   
     Dave 
  
  
     
   
  -----Original Message-----
 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net
 To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; six pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
 Sent: Wed, Apr 5, 2023 7:03 am
 Subject: [TR] CL ad
 
 Hello,
  
  I did not get any No's from the list so here is a link to my 72 6.
  
  I am getting older by the day and the driving season here in Central NY 
  seems to be getting shorter every year. Still will have the 3 and 4 though.
  
  Thanks,
  
  Bob
  
  https://utica.craigslist.org/cto/d/utica-1972-triumph-tr6/7606269281.html
  
  ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
  
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive
  
  Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
    
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Apr  6 15:31:24 2023
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2023 21:31:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] [6pack]  CL ad
In-Reply-To: <5377413b7d3346f4a86426a61d6322f1@ranteer.com>
References: <d667ef2e-d1c9-10b9-5dd4-322c47677a89@roadrunner.com>
 <2019472223.353381.1680781292486@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5377413b7d3346f4a86426a61d6322f1@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <1120439605.624814.1680816684682@mail.yahoo.com>

 Sometimes people just don't get it.? One week I drive a different car to work everyday.? Nobody noticed or cared.
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Apr 6, 2023 9:06 am
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] CL ad

<!--#yiv6356573829 filtered {}#yiv6356573829 filtered {}#yiv6356573829 p.yiv6356573829MsoNormal, #yiv6356573829 li.yiv6356573829MsoNormal, #yiv6356573829 div.yiv6356573829MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv6356573829 a:link, #yiv6356573829 span.yiv6356573829MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6356573829 span.yiv6356573829EmailStyle19 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv6356573829 .yiv6356573829MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv6356573829 filtered {}#yiv6356573829 div.yiv6356573829WordSection1 {}-->Yes!? I sold 2 cars last year and am selling another soon.? Will be down to just 2 LBCs, which my son very much wants to keep.? One is already in his name; the other is in both our names.? btw he is 32 and has been working on old British cars since he was 10.? My daughter wants none of it, but she very much wants the 350Z convertible, which is ok with my son.  ? From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf OfDAVID MASSEY
Sent: Thursday, April 6, 2023 6:42 AM
To: yellowtr at adelphia.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] CL ad  ? Beautiful car.? Good luck with your sale.? Like you I am trying to thin the herd.? We frequently hear stories of widows left with a garage full of cars and parts that need to be moved and quickly.? It is better to unload this stuff in a more gradual manner.  ? Dave  ?  ?  ?  ? -----Original Message-----
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; six pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Apr 5, 2023 7:03 am
Subject: [TR] CL ad Hello,  ? I did not get any No's from the list so here is a link to my 72 6.  ? I am getting older by the day and the driving season here in Central NY seems to be getting shorter every year. Still will have the 3 and 4 though.  ? Thanks,  ? Bob  ? https://utica.craigslist.org/cto/d/utica-1972-triumph-tr6/7606269281.html  ? **triumphs at autox.team.net **  ? Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs?http://www.team.net/archive  ? Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com

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From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Thu Apr  6 15:55:16 2023
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2023 14:55:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] Sorry to involve the list
Message-ID: <228f0072-58ed-484d-97e4-98b1f5bc0c46@blakedischer.com>

Hi everyone,

My carelessness in forwarding? a message to Jack McGahey from the wrong 
email account ended up involving the list in a bit of VTR business.? My bad.

Cheers,

Blake
VTR Webmaster
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From mbarre at juno.com  Thu Apr  6 20:03:49 2023
From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt)
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2023 02:03:49 GMT
Subject: [TR] CL ad
Message-ID: <20230406.220349.6005.0@webmail01.vgs.untd.com>

My long suffering wife has recently told me that when I die, she is having the yard sale I was always in search of - "EVERYTHING IS $1"  Something tells me she will get the shop cleared out pretty quick!  I will make sure she knows how to send notice to the list!

Don't get too excited though, my nothing indicates my demise is eminent or even near.




---------- Original Message ----------
From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
To: "yellowtr at adelphia.net" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>,  "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>,  "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] CL ad
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2023 11:41:32 +0000 (UTC)




 Beautiful car.  Good luck with your sale.  Like you I am trying to thin the herd.  We frequently hear stories of widows left with a garage full of cars and parts that need to be moved and quickly.  It is better to unload this stuff in a more gradual manner.



 






Dave 












 



 



-----Original Message-----

From: yellowtr at adelphia.net

To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; six pack <6pack at autox.team.net>

Sent: Wed, Apr 5, 2023 7:03 am

Subject: [TR] CL ad




Hello,







I did not get any No's from the list so here is a link to my 72 6.







I am getting older by the day and the driving season here in Central NY 



seems to be getting shorter every year. Still will have the 3 and 4 though.







Thanks,







Bob







https://utica.craigslist.org/cto/d/utica-1972-triumph-tr6/7606269281.html







** triumphs at autox.team.net **







Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html



Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive







Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com






From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Apr  7 09:13:42 2023
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (CFM-TR)
Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2023 11:13:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Sorry to involve the list
In-Reply-To: <228f0072-58ed-484d-97e4-98b1f5bc0c46@blakedischer.com>
References: <228f0072-58ed-484d-97e4-98b1f5bc0c46@blakedischer.com>
Message-ID: <982ffe34-2753-4850-914e-cdec44d27d98@verizon.net>

No biggie...
thanks for all you do for the Triumph community!



On Apr 6, 2023, 5:55 PM, at 5:55 PM, "Blake J. Discher" <bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com> wrote:
>Hi everyone,
>
>My carelessness in forwarding? a message to Jack McGahey from the wrong
>
>email account ended up involving the list in a bit of VTR business.? My
>bad.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Blake
>VTR Webmaster
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net


From triumphstag at gmail.com  Sat Apr  8 12:18:36 2023
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2023 11:18:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Steering rack boot
Message-ID: <CANLCLaE3sKiktR3ywKu67SZUYH84+6ZkqOMg25He4-aRzTGRuQ@mail.gmail.com>

The aftermarket rubber coming out of UK is rather poor.

Some how this came up and someone in the reviews said it worked on their
TR7.  I have a Stag,but searches show the TR7/8 Jag XJS are a few other
british cars have use the same type.

Has anyone found something similar made by a USA brand company?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HHNGG1K/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Sujit


-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Sat Apr  8 18:50:44 2023
From: stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org (stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org)
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2023 18:50:44 -0600
Subject: [TR] Steering rack boot
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaE3sKiktR3ywKu67SZUYH84+6ZkqOMg25He4-aRzTGRuQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaE3sKiktR3ywKu67SZUYH84+6ZkqOMg25He4-aRzTGRuQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001d96a7d$52805a60$f7810f20$@triumphstagclub.org>

Sujit,

Yes, I have had one supplier?s boots turn to cheese after about 2 years.

 

The racks I have had rebuilt at Atlantic where they replaced the boots on rebuild have lasted many years, but I do not know where they sourced their parts.  Best guess since they started out as a Jaguar rack rebuilder that they know what fits across different units, BUT, I have not corresponded with them in at least 8 years since the original owner sold the company to one of the big rebuilders.

 

Also, it seems to me that the XJS Rack from the period is a very similar Adwest unit for parts, the mounting cast aluminum ends are different but swappable for the Stag and the early style ball end rods, but don?t hold me to that without first finding the assembly part numbers from a Jaguar guru like XK?s Unlimited which I think has also been sold to Moss?

 

For $9/$18 for the pair and free shipping, and free returns, try them, you can always send them back as crap, nice thing about Amazon Prime.

 

Glenn aka StagByTriumph Garage

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
Sent: Saturday, April 8, 2023 12:19 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Steering rack boot

 

The aftermarket rubber coming out of UK is rather poor.  

 

Some how this came up and someone in the reviews said it worked on their TR7.  I have a Stag,but searches show the TR7/8 Jag XJS are a few other british cars have use the same type. 

 

Has anyone found something similar made by a USA brand company?

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HHNGG1K/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER <https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HHNGG1K/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1> &psc=1

 

Sujit




 

-- 

Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California


https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

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From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Sun Apr  9 11:49:14 2023
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2023 13:49:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <CADm3DLHfVYG_womTqM2qE_e5dvSUdyVyu+BJtbWo3H9qobevxA@mail.gmail.com>

I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my TR6.  Here's
the configuration:

1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire
2) New wiring harness from TRF
3) Positive cable connected to battery
4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a small
amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow
before damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse
blows)
5) White wire at distributor disconnected
6) No dash instruments connected
7) Rear harness not installed yet
8) TBI power connector not connected
9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected
10) Alternator connected
11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place


When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.  When I
disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current draw
disappears.

The wires area connected as follows.  The brown/yellow wire goes to the (1)
connector on the alternator for dash light.

The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator
called "switched live" from the battery.  Currently the small brown wire is
always live from the battery per Triumph design.  If the "switched live'
note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ignition switch
is off then that is likely the problem.

All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition switch on
position and only live when the ignition is on.  I don't have any way to
really test my theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and
won't for a few weeks.  I'd like to resolve this before I go much further
with the wiring install.

Thanks,

Brad
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From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Sun Apr  9 15:31:21 2023
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2023 21:31:21 +0000
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLHfVYG_womTqM2qE_e5dvSUdyVyu+BJtbWo3H9qobevxA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADm3DLHfVYG_womTqM2qE_e5dvSUdyVyu+BJtbWo3H9qobevxA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BL3PR10MB621190CC922F2C6F16132282B9949@BL3PR10MB6211.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Brad

I did a similar conversion a few years ago on a TR3 and I?m fairly certain that needs to be switched power to the unit.  I don?t have a wiring diagram handy but you may be ok adding the small brown wire to the same terminal as the large brown wire - and run a separate connection for the switch power.  The positive coil terminal could be a convenient place.

Randy

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 9, 2023, at 1:19 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my TR6.  Here's the configuration:
> 
> 1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire 
> 2) New wiring harness from TRF
> 3) Positive cable connected to battery
> 4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a small amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow before damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse blows)
> 5) White wire at distributor disconnected
> 6) No dash instruments connected
> 7) Rear harness not installed yet
> 8) TBI power connector not connected
> 9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected 
> 10) Alternator connected
> 11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place
> 
> 
> When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.  When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current draw disappears. 
> 
> The wires area connected as follows.  The brown/yellow wire goes to the (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.  
> 
> The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator called "switched live" from the battery.  Currently the small brown wire is always live from the battery per Triumph design.  If the "switched live' note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ignition switch is off then that is likely the problem.  
> 
> All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition switch on position and only live when the ignition is on.  I don't have any way to really test my theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and won't for a few weeks.  I'd like to resolve this before I go much further with the wiring install.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Sun Apr  9 15:51:35 2023
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2023 17:51:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <BL3PR10MB621190CC922F2C6F16132282B9949@BL3PR10MB6211.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CADm3DLHfVYG_womTqM2qE_e5dvSUdyVyu+BJtbWo3H9qobevxA@mail.gmail.com>
 <BL3PR10MB621190CC922F2C6F16132282B9949@BL3PR10MB6211.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CADm3DLEpBUe9gap9ndqquQH9O3iW+LEL9OadDfvxPOfv53tVeA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Randy,

I used a 3-wire Denso a bunch of years ago and thought I wired it hot all
the time but it's obvious that I'm wrong on that.  I like the idea of
pulling ignition power off the coil and connecting the small brown with the
large brown wire.  Beats running a wire all the way over to the fuse box.

I've made changes to the wiring but I'm trying to not modify the new TRF
harness.  You never know when you might want to revert back to stock.

Thanks.

Brad



On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 5:31?PM Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <
deruiterville at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Brad
>
> I did a similar conversion a few years ago on a TR3 and I?m fairly certain
> that needs to be switched power to the unit.  I don?t have a wiring diagram
> handy but you may be ok adding the small brown wire to the same terminal as
> the large brown wire - and run a separate connection for the switch power.
> The positive coil terminal could be a convenient place.
>
> Randy
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Apr 9, 2023, at 1:19 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?
> > I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my TR6.
> Here's the configuration:
> >
> > 1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire
> > 2) New wiring harness from TRF
> > 3) Positive cable connected to battery
> > 4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a small
> amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow
> before damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse
> blows)
> > 5) White wire at distributor disconnected
> > 6) No dash instruments connected
> > 7) Rear harness not installed yet
> > 8) TBI power connector not connected
> > 9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected
> > 10) Alternator connected
> > 11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place
> >
> >
> > When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.
> When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current draw
> disappears.
> >
> > The wires area connected as follows.  The brown/yellow wire goes to the
> (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.
> >
> > The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator
> called "switched live" from the battery.  Currently the small brown wire is
> always live from the battery per Triumph design.  If the "switched live'
> note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ignition switch
> is off then that is likely the problem.
> >
> > All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition switch
> on position and only live when the ignition is on.  I don't have any way to
> really test my theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and
> won't for a few weeks.  I'd like to resolve this before I go much further
> with the wiring install.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Brad
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com
>
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Apr  9 16:33:34 2023
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2023 22:33:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLHfVYG_womTqM2qE_e5dvSUdyVyu+BJtbWo3H9qobevxA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADm3DLHfVYG_womTqM2qE_e5dvSUdyVyu+BJtbWo3H9qobevxA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <776103317.1414447.1681079614589@mail.yahoo.com>

 I don't know about the Nippon alternator but if it uses the same regulator as the Delco CS130 and if you have the IGN light connected the regulator will turn on and try to generate current even though the alternator is not turning.? That four amps is the field current.? Applying power to the IGN light will cause current to flow into the regulator which turns everything on.? In normal operation, switching the key off will break this feed and the regulator will shut off.
This works quite differently than the boot-strap operation with which we are more familiar and is typical of alternators of our vintage.
But then, I am not familiar with your alternator and this may not be the case. But that is where I would start.
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Apr 9, 2023 12:49 pm
Subject: [TR] (no subject)

I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my TR6.? Here's the configuration:
1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire?2) New wiring harness from TRF3) Positive?cable connected to battery4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a small amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow before damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse blows)5) White wire at distributor disconnected6) No dash instruments connected7) Rear harness not installed yet8) TBI power connector not connected9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected?10) Alternator connected11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place

When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.? When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current draw disappears.?
The wires area connected as follows.? The brown/yellow wire goes to the (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.??
The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator called "switched live" from the battery.? Currently the small brown wire is always live from the battery per Triumph design.? If the "switched live' note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ignition switch is off then that is likely the problem.??
All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition switch on position and only live when the ignition is on.? I don't have any way to really test my theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and won't for a few weeks.? I'd like to resolve this before I go much further with the wiring install.
Thanks,
Brad



** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Sun Apr  9 16:40:36 2023
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2023 18:40:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <BL3PR10MB621190CC922F2C6F16132282B9949@BL3PR10MB6211.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CADm3DLHfVYG_womTqM2qE_e5dvSUdyVyu+BJtbWo3H9qobevxA@mail.gmail.com>
 <BL3PR10MB621190CC922F2C6F16132282B9949@BL3PR10MB6211.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <006d01d96b34$4df1bd60$e9d53820$@charter.net>

Don't forget that there may be a resistance wire in the feed circuit to the coil which limits voltage and available current. I found out the hard way when We had a Pertronix ignition set-up being fed by the coil wire. That low voltage starved the Pertronix unit twice before I realized what the issue was.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy and Valerie DeRuiter
Sent: Sunday, April 9, 2023 5:31 PM
To: Brad Kahler
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject)

Brad

I did a similar conversion a few years ago on a TR3 and I?m fairly certain that needs to be switched power to the unit.  I don?t have a wiring diagram handy but you may be ok adding the small brown wire to the same terminal as the large brown wire - and run a separate connection for the switch power.  The positive coil terminal could be a convenient place.

Randy

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 9, 2023, at 1:19 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my TR6.  Here's the configuration:
> 
> 1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire 
> 2) New wiring harness from TRF
> 3) Positive cable connected to battery
> 4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a small amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow before damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse blows)
> 5) White wire at distributor disconnected
> 6) No dash instruments connected
> 7) Rear harness not installed yet
> 8) TBI power connector not connected
> 9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected 
> 10) Alternator connected
> 11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place
> 
> 
> When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.  When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current draw disappears. 
> 
> The wires area connected as follows.  The brown/yellow wire goes to the (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.  
> 
> The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator called "switched live" from the battery.  Currently the small brown wire is always live from the battery per Triumph design.  If the "switched live' note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ignition switch is off then that is likely the problem.  
> 
> All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition switch on position and only live when the ignition is on.  I don't have any way to really test my theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and won't for a few weeks.  I'd like to resolve this before I go much further with the wiring install.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net


From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Mon Apr 10 08:25:05 2023
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2023 10:25:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <776103317.1414447.1681079614589@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CADm3DLHfVYG_womTqM2qE_e5dvSUdyVyu+BJtbWo3H9qobevxA@mail.gmail.com>
 <776103317.1414447.1681079614589@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CADm3DLHEScN+5Jq_-hOqNQ6nKge96p78oCUJt3rLA3o1p74svg@mail.gmail.com>

Morning Dave,

Thanks for the explanation as to why it's drawing 4 amps.  After more
research there is a Denso alternator that is a 4-wire connection just like
the Lucas alternators.  If I had bought that alternator I wouldn't have a
problem with the always hot brown wire.  I'm going to do what others have
suggested and just connect the small brown wire to the big brown wire and
find a source of ignition (white wire).  There are two choices in the
engine compartment, the distributor and the fuse box.  I'll look things
over today to see what it's going to take.

Hope to see you later this year :)

Brad

On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 6:33?PM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

> I don't know about the Nippon alternator but if it uses the same regulator
> as the Delco CS130 and if you have the IGN light connected the regulator
> will turn on and try to generate current even though the alternator is not
> turning.  That four amps is the field current.  Applying power to the IGN
> light will cause current to flow into the regulator which turns everything
> on.  In normal operation, switching the key off will break this feed and
> the regulator will shut off.
>
> This works quite differently than the boot-strap operation with which we
> are more familiar and is typical of alternators of our vintage.
>
> But then, I am not familiar with your alternator and this may not be the
> case. But that is where I would start.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com>
> To: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Apr 9, 2023 12:49 pm
> Subject: [TR] (no subject)
>
> I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my TR6.
> Here's the configuration:
>
> 1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire
> 2) New wiring harness from TRF
> 3) Positive cable connected to battery
> 4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a small
> amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow
> before damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse
> blows)
> 5) White wire at distributor disconnected
> 6) No dash instruments connected
> 7) Rear harness not installed yet
> 8) TBI power connector not connected
> 9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected
> 10) Alternator connected
> 11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place
>
>
> When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.  When
> I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current draw
> disappears.
>
> The wires area connected as follows.  The brown/yellow wire goes to the
> (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.
>
> The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator
> called "switched live" from the battery.  Currently the small brown wire is
> always live from the battery per Triumph design.  If the "switched live'
> note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ignition switch
> is off then that is likely the problem.
>
> All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition switch
> on position and only live when the ignition is on.  I don't have any way to
> really test my theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and
> won't for a few weeks.  I'd like to resolve this before I go much further
> with the wiring install.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brad
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
>
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From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Mon Apr 10 11:02:58 2023
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2023 13:02:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <006d01d96b34$4df1bd60$e9d53820$@charter.net>
References: <CADm3DLHfVYG_womTqM2qE_e5dvSUdyVyu+BJtbWo3H9qobevxA@mail.gmail.com>
 <BL3PR10MB621190CC922F2C6F16132282B9949@BL3PR10MB6211.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <006d01d96b34$4df1bd60$e9d53820$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <CADm3DLFne_daZiDLvoF5pX94Hhzv+StkmPLLOuOkc_17wsgv5Q@mail.gmail.com>

Alex,

If I remember correctly it was only the later TR6s that had the resistors
installed.  I'm certain mine doesn't have that feature.

I'll know for sure once I start the engine up in a few weeks!

Brad

On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 6:40?PM Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net>
wrote:

> Don't forget that there may be a resistance wire in the feed circuit to
> the coil which limits voltage and available current. I found out the hard
> way when We had a Pertronix ignition set-up being fed by the coil wire.
> That low voltage starved the Pertronix unit twice before I realized what
> the issue was.
>
> Alex Thomson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Randy and Valerie DeRuiter
> Sent: Sunday, April 9, 2023 5:31 PM
> To: Brad Kahler
> Cc: Triumphs
> Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject)
>
> Brad
>
> I did a similar conversion a few years ago on a TR3 and I?m fairly certain
> that needs to be switched power to the unit.  I don?t have a wiring diagram
> handy but you may be ok adding the small brown wire to the same terminal as
> the large brown wire - and run a separate connection for the switch power.
> The positive coil terminal could be a convenient place.
>
> Randy
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Apr 9, 2023, at 1:19 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?
> > I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my TR6.
> Here's the configuration:
> >
> > 1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire
> > 2) New wiring harness from TRF
> > 3) Positive cable connected to battery
> > 4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a small
> amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow
> before damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse
> blows)
> > 5) White wire at distributor disconnected
> > 6) No dash instruments connected
> > 7) Rear harness not installed yet
> > 8) TBI power connector not connected
> > 9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected
> > 10) Alternator connected
> > 11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place
> >
> >
> > When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.
> When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current draw
> disappears.
> >
> > The wires area connected as follows.  The brown/yellow wire goes to the
> (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.
> >
> > The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator
> called "switched live" from the battery.  Currently the small brown wire is
> always live from the battery per Triumph design.  If the "switched live'
> note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ignition switch
> is off then that is likely the problem.
> >
> > All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition switch
> on position and only live when the ignition is on.  I don't have any way to
> really test my theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and
> won't for a few weeks.  I'd like to resolve this before I go much further
> with the wiring install.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Brad
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net
>
>
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From ptegler at verizon.net  Mon Apr 10 13:35:43 2023
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2023 15:35:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLFne_daZiDLvoF5pX94Hhzv+StkmPLLOuOkc_17wsgv5Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADm3DLHfVYG_womTqM2qE_e5dvSUdyVyu+BJtbWo3H9qobevxA@mail.gmail.com>
 <BL3PR10MB621190CC922F2C6F16132282B9949@BL3PR10MB6211.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <006d01d96b34$4df1bd60$e9d53820$@charter.net>
 <CADm3DLFne_daZiDLvoF5pX94Hhzv+StkmPLLOuOkc_17wsgv5Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3f11647f-223b-a8cf-12e5-2e0240e602c1@verizon.net>

simply measure ohms from the WHT wire at the ignition switch to the? + 
(plus)? wire for your ignition coil.
If you do not have a VERY low ohm reading, (< .5 ohms) the harness 
itself has the built in resistance wire designed for the 1.5ohm or so 
coil use
(vs the separate ceramic resistor usually mounted near the coil).
...speaking of which, you can get rid of that resistor and just use a 3 
ohm coil if you do not have an elec box for the distributor
(straight old style points in use)

ptegler

On 4/10/2023 1:02 PM, Brad Kahler wrote:
> Alex,
>
> If I remember correctly it was only the later TR6s that had the 
> resistors installed.? I'm certain mine doesn't have that feature.
>
> I'll know for sure once I start the engine up in a few weeks!
>
> Brad
>
> On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 6:40?PM Alex & Janet Thomson 
> <aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:
>
>     Don't forget that there may be a resistance wire in the feed
>     circuit to the coil which limits voltage and available current. I
>     found out the hard way when We had a Pertronix ignition set-up
>     being fed by the coil wire. That low voltage starved the Pertronix
>     unit twice before I realized what the issue was.
>
>     Alex Thomson
>
>     -----Original Message-----
>     From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
>     Of Randy and Valerie DeRuiter
>     Sent: Sunday, April 9, 2023 5:31 PM
>     To: Brad Kahler
>     Cc: Triumphs
>     Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject)
>
>     Brad
>
>     I did a similar conversion a few years ago on a TR3 and I?m fairly
>     certain that needs to be switched power to the unit. I don?t have
>     a wiring diagram handy but you may be ok adding the small brown
>     wire to the same terminal as the large brown wire - and run a
>     separate connection for the switch power. The positive coil
>     terminal could be a convenient place.
>
>     Randy
>
>     Sent from my iPad
>
>     > On Apr 9, 2023, at 1:19 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>     >
>     > ?
>     > I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my
>     TR6? Here's the configuration:
>     >
>     > 1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire
>     > 2) New wiring harness from TRF
>     > 3) Positive cable connected to battery
>     > 4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with
>     a small amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the
>     fuse will blow before damaging anything and I can read the current
>     draw if/until the fuse blows)
>     > 5) White wire at distributor disconnected
>     > 6) No dash instruments connected
>     > 7) Rear harness not installed yet
>     > 8) TBI power connector not connected
>     > 9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected
>     > 10) Alternator connected
>     > 11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place
>     >
>     >
>     > When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp
>     draw.? When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator
>     the current draw disappears.
>     >
>     > The wires area connected as follows.? The brown/yellow wire goes
>     to the (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.
>     >
>     > The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the
>     alternator called "switched live" from the battery. Currently the
>     small brown wire is always live from the battery per Triumph
>     design.? If the "switched live' note means the brown wire is
>     supposed to be cold when the ignition switch is off then that is
>     likely the problem.
>     >
>     > All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the
>     ignition switch on position and only live when the ignition is
>     on.? I don't have any way to really test my theory because I
>     haven't got the engine running yet and won't for a few weeks.? I'd
>     like to resolve this before I go much further with the wiring install.
>     >
>     > Thanks,
>     >
>     > Brad
>     >
>     >
>     >
>     >
>     > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>     >
>     > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>     http://www.team.net/archive
>     >
>     > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
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> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Mon Apr 10 15:35:58 2023
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert)
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2023 17:35:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Re-installing Front Suspension Springs
Message-ID: <62D5984E-FBE5-438A-A945-25AB9EC89930@comcast.net>

	I?m in the last stages of reassembling the front suspension after replacing all the bushings.  I originally did the job about 6 years ago and can?t remember how I reinstalled the springs, but I don?t recall it being particularly difficult.  This time through, I just can?t get the springs back in.  I got a spring compressor loaner from AutoZone and was able to install one spring, but when I went to remove the spring compressor through the bottom of the spring pan it was about 1/8 of an inch too wide to remove, so back to the drawingboard...  I?ve looked at Bentley and Hayes manuals, but their method of putting the spring back is put the spring pan and jack it up into position  doesn?t come close to lining the spring pan to the lower wishbone holes. Any advice appreciated.
	Below are the bushings I removed.  They about 6 to 7 years old with about 20,000 miles and, as you can see, they are toast. The swing arm bushings were worse. I bought them on a recommendation from a TR guy from an outfit in the UK called Polybush.
	Best,
	Bob


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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Mon Apr 10 16:21:22 2023
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2023 22:21:22 +0000
Subject: [TR] Re-installing Front Suspension Springs
Message-ID: <8aee49b8-4aaa-6fb9-d414-cb50a0ce13e7@earthlink.net>

I used a spring compressor loaner from the local auto parts store once, but it didn't work well.  The various vendors sell one like https://mossmotors.com/386-895-suspension-spring-compressor that works much better.  I ended up just buying a 2' long 1/2" threaded rod and some nuts and made the same thing.

Another tip is to use some much longer bolts initially on the spring pan to better help things line up then put in the proper shorter bolts.

Brian

-----Original Message-----
From: Rochlin Robert <rrochlin at comcast.net>
Sent: Apr 10, 2023 2:50 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>, 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Re-installing Front Suspension Springs

I&rsquo;m in the last stages of reassembling the front suspension after replacing all the bushings. I originally did the job about 6 years ago and can&rsquo;t remember how I reinstalled the springs, but I don&rsquo;t recall it being particularly difficult. This time through, I just can&rsquo;t get the springs back in. I got a spring compressor loaner from AutoZone and was able to install one spring, but when I went to remove the spring compressor through the bottom of the spring pan it was about 1/8 of an inch too wide to remove, so back to the drawingboard... I&rsquo;ve looked at Bentley and Hayes manuals, but their method of putting the spring back is put the spring pan and jack it up into position doesn&rsquo;t come close to lining the spring pan to the lower wishbone holes. Any advice appreciated.
Below are the bushings I removed. They about 6 to 7 years old with about 20,000 miles and, as you can see, they are toast. The swing arm bushings were worse. I bought them on a recommendation from a TR guy from an outfit in the UK called Polybush.
Best,
Bob











** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive (http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs)

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Mon Apr 10 18:23:24 2023
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2023 19:23:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Re-installing Front Suspension Springs
In-Reply-To: <8aee49b8-4aaa-6fb9-d414-cb50a0ce13e7@earthlink.net>
References: <8aee49b8-4aaa-6fb9-d414-cb50a0ce13e7@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4960F55D-47D0-4D9E-A4A0-856C8D17541A@yahoo.com>

Yes, the compressor from Moss, or well-made at home, is the way to go.  Tried the exterior style once, not pretty. 
Bill B
TS30800L

?Shoot low sheriff, she?s riding a shetland? ?B.Wills

On Apr 10, 2023, at 6:35 PM, Brian Kemp <bk13 at earthlink.net> wrote:

?I used a spring compressor loaner from the local auto parts store once, but it didn't work well.  The various vendors sell one like https://mossmotors.com/386-895-suspension-spring-compressor that works much better.  I ended up just buying a 2' long 1/2" threaded rod and some nuts and made the same thing.

Another tip is to use some much longer bolts initially on the spring pan to better help things line up then put in the proper shorter bolts.

Brian

-----Original Message-----
From: Rochlin Robert <rrochlin at comcast.net>
Sent: Apr 10, 2023 2:50 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>, 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Re-installing Front Suspension Springs

I&rsquo;m in the last stages of reassembling the front suspension after replacing all the bushings. I originally did the job about 6 years ago and can&rsquo;t remember how I reinstalled the springs, but I don&rsquo;t recall it being particularly difficult. This time through, I just can&rsquo;t get the springs back in. I got a spring compressor loaner from AutoZone and was able to install one spring, but when I went to remove the spring compressor through the bottom of the spring pan it was about 1/8 of an inch too wide to remove, so back to the drawingboard... I&rsquo;ve looked at Bentley and Hayes manuals, but their method of putting the spring back is put the spring pan and jack it up into position doesn&rsquo;t come close to lining the spring pan to the lower wishbone holes. Any advice appreciated.
Below are the bushings I removed. They about 6 to 7 years old with about 20,000 miles and, as you can see, they are toast. The swing arm bushings were worse. I bought them on a recommendation from a TR guy from an outfit in the UK called Polybush.
Best,
Bob











** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive (http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs)

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From pebarnes71 at gmail.com  Mon Apr 10 18:32:59 2023
From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes)
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2023 20:32:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] Re-installing Front Suspension Springs
In-Reply-To: <62D5984E-FBE5-438A-A945-25AB9EC89930@comcast.net>
References: <62D5984E-FBE5-438A-A945-25AB9EC89930@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CANxnku1EMKBYm33QHEMJiyOw161F5rAAbgvQ=8zKhaaGkhnMyg@mail.gmail.com>

When removing or installing the front springs, I've had good luck with a
length of 1/2" threaded rod and a series of washers, plates, and nuts. Have
a look at the tool illustrated in the Haynes or Bentley manuals. The jack
method won't work because the spring needs to be under load when installed,
more load that the weight of the car.

--Phil Barnes ('71 TR6 since 1977)

On Mon, Apr 10, 2023, 6:03 PM Rochlin Robert <rrochlin at comcast.net> wrote:

>         I?m in the last stages of reassembling the front suspension after
> replacing all the bushings.  I originally did the job about 6 years ago and
> can?t remember how I reinstalled the springs, but I don?t recall it being
> particularly difficult.  This time through, I just can?t get the springs
> back in.  I got a spring compressor loaner from AutoZone and was able to
> install one spring, but when I went to remove the spring compressor through
> the bottom of the spring pan it was about 1/8 of an inch too wide to
> remove, so back to the drawingboard...  I?ve looked at Bentley and Hayes
> manuals, but their method of putting the spring back is put the spring pan
> and jack it up into position  doesn?t come close to lining the spring pan
> to the lower wishbone holes. Any advice appreciated.
>         Below are the bushings I removed.  They about 6 to 7 years old
> with about 20,000 miles and, as you can see, they are toast. The swing arm
> bushings were worse. I bought them on a recommendation from a TR guy from
> an outfit in the UK called Polybush.
>         Best,
>         Bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pebarnes71 at gmail.com
>
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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Mon Apr 10 19:27:02 2023
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2023 18:27:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Re-installing Front Suspension Springs
In-Reply-To: <62D5984E-FBE5-438A-A945-25AB9EC89930@comcast.net>
References: <62D5984E-FBE5-438A-A945-25AB9EC89930@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <276630525.865685.1681176422309@connect.xfinity.com>

That's terrible condition for any poly or rubber bushing in such a short time.  Complete failure.  I've taken many TR suspensions apart and never saw even a 60+ year old original factory bushing in that condition. Just yesterday I completely disassembled an early TR4 suspension from a badly bent frame and what I'm sure where the original bushings didn't look as bad.  The durometer of those poly bushing must be way too soft.  I wouldn't use those again.  I'd send those photos to the manufacturer and supplier.  Terrible.
I too made my own spring compressor similar to the Moss tool. 
Dave H.

From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Apr 11 06:08:49 2023
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2023 12:08:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Re-installing Front Suspension Springs
In-Reply-To: <CANxnku1EMKBYm33QHEMJiyOw161F5rAAbgvQ=8zKhaaGkhnMyg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <62D5984E-FBE5-438A-A945-25AB9EC89930@comcast.net>
 <CANxnku1EMKBYm33QHEMJiyOw161F5rAAbgvQ=8zKhaaGkhnMyg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <353896797.2124216.1681214929650@mail.yahoo.com>

 I've found that conventional hardware store all thread (grade 2) will last long enough to change out one set of springs.? Even with lubrication the thread wears and gets galled.? I went one better and bought some 1/2 inch ACME thread rod and nuts from McMaster-Carr.? Of course, ACME thread nuts won't jam since that effect counts on the angle of the thread and ACME has no angle, the threads are square-cut.? So I drilled the nut and rod at one end and I use a locking pin to keep the nut on the bottom in place throughout the operation.
My tool has been used for many removal/installs and is still good as new.? 

On the other hand, hardware store threaded rod is available today and will work for one operation and is quick and convenient in acquisition.
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Philip Barnes <pebarnes71 at gmail.com>
To: Rochlin Robert <rrochlin at comcast.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Apr 10, 2023 7:32 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Re-installing Front Suspension Springs

When removing or installing the front springs, I've had good luck with a length of 1/2" threaded rod and a series of washers, plates, and nuts. Have a look at the tool illustrated in the Haynes or Bentley manuals. The jack method won't work because the spring needs to be under load when installed, more load that the weight of the car.
--Phil Barnes ('71 TR6 since 1977)
On Mon, Apr 10, 2023, 6:03 PM Rochlin Robert <rrochlin at comcast.net> wrote:

? ? ? ? I?m in the last stages of reassembling the front suspension after replacing all the bushings.? I originally did the job about 6 years ago and can?t remember how I reinstalled the springs, but I don?t recall it being particularly difficult.? This time through, I just can?t get the springs back in.? I got a spring compressor loaner from AutoZone and was able to install one spring, but when I went to remove the spring compressor through the bottom of the spring pan it was about 1/8 of an inch too wide to remove, so back to the drawingboard...? I?ve looked at Bentley and Hayes manuals, but their method of putting the spring back is put the spring pan and jack it up into position? doesn?t come close to lining the spring pan to the lower wishbone holes. Any advice appreciated.
? ? ? ? Below are the bushings I removed.? They about 6 to 7 years old with about 20,000 miles and, as you can see, they are toast. The swing arm bushings were worse. I bought them on a recommendation from a TR guy from an outfit in the UK called Polybush.
? ? ? ? Best,
? ? ? ? Bob








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From ptegler at verizon.net  Tue Apr 11 06:24:49 2023
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2023 08:24:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Re-installing Front Suspension Springs
In-Reply-To: <276630525.865685.1681176422309@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <62D5984E-FBE5-438A-A945-25AB9EC89930@comcast.net>
 <276630525.865685.1681176422309@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <634cc77f-70e2-9e13-ddd0-b2216a3443be@verizon.net>

agreed. Terrible product quality. I've personally never found any 'blue' 
poly? worth a crap.
It use to be the blue, yellow, red and black were durometer indicators, 
but that no longer seems
to be the case.

OK...primary issue with poly that most don't follow. They need to be 
properly lubed during assembly.
AND do NOT tighten them down until you have the car back on the ground 
in there normal road positions.
Being harder (higher durometer) they will not twist as readily. So you 
are simply over twisting the crap out of them
the first time the car is lowered, ripping the urethane apart.



ptegler

On 4/10/2023 9:27 PM, DAVE HOGYE wrote:
> That's terrible condition for any poly or rubber bushing in such a short time.  Complete failure.  I've taken many TR suspensions apart and never saw even a 60+ year old original factory bushing in that condition. Just yesterday I completely disassembled an early TR4 suspension from a badly bent frame and what I'm sure where the original bushings didn't look as bad.  The durometer of those poly bushing must be way too soft.  I wouldn't use those again.  I'd send those photos to the manufacturer and supplier.  Terrible.
> I too made my own spring compressor similar to the Moss tool.
> Dave H.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net

-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com


From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Apr 11 07:29:32 2023
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2023 13:29:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLHEScN+5Jq_-hOqNQ6nKge96p78oCUJt3rLA3o1p74svg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADm3DLHfVYG_womTqM2qE_e5dvSUdyVyu+BJtbWo3H9qobevxA@mail.gmail.com>
 <776103317.1414447.1681079614589@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CADm3DLHEScN+5Jq_-hOqNQ6nKge96p78oCUJt3rLA3o1p74svg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1975594077.2159358.1681219772687@mail.yahoo.com>

 It took me a while and some research to figure out how the GM unit works and though it is typical of modern alternators it is radically different than what we are used to.
See you in GA.
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com>
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Apr 10, 2023 9:25 am
Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject)

Morning Dave,
Thanks for the explanation?as to why it's drawing 4 amps.? After more research there is a Denso alternator that is a 4-wire connection just like the Lucas alternators.? If I had bought that alternator I wouldn't have a problem with the always hot brown wire.? I'm going to do what others have suggested and just connect the small brown wire to the big brown wire and find a source of ignition (white wire).? There are two choices in the engine compartment, the distributor and the fuse box.? I'll look things over today to see what it's going to take.
Hope to see you later this year :)
Brad
On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 6:33?PM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

 I don't know about the Nippon alternator but if it uses the same regulator as the Delco CS130 and if you have the IGN light connected the regulator will turn on and try to generate current even though the alternator is not turning.? That four amps is the field current.? Applying power to the IGN light will cause current to flow into the regulator which turns everything on.? In normal operation, switching the key off will break this feed and the regulator will shut off.
This works quite differently than the boot-strap operation with which we are more familiar and is typical of alternators of our vintage.
But then, I am not familiar with your alternator and this may not be the case. But that is where I would start.
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Apr 9, 2023 12:49 pm
Subject: [TR] (no subject)

I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my TR6.? Here's the configuration:
1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire?2) New wiring harness from TRF3) Positive?cable connected to battery4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a small amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow before damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse blows)5) White wire at distributor disconnected6) No dash instruments connected7) Rear harness not installed yet8) TBI power connector not connected9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected?10) Alternator connected11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place

When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.? When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current draw disappears.?
The wires area connected as follows.? The brown/yellow wire goes to the (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.??
The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator called "switched live" from the battery.? Currently the small brown wire is always live from the battery per Triumph design.? If the "switched live' note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ignition switch is off then that is likely the problem.??
All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition switch on position and only live when the ignition is on.? I don't have any way to really test my theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and won't for a few weeks.? I'd like to resolve this before I go much further with the wiring install.
Thanks,
Brad



** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Tue Apr 11 08:23:43 2023
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2023 14:23:43 +0000
Subject: [TR] Re-installing Front Suspension Springs
In-Reply-To: <353896797.2124216.1681214929650@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <62D5984E-FBE5-438A-A945-25AB9EC89930@comcast.net>
 <CANxnku1EMKBYm33QHEMJiyOw161F5rAAbgvQ=8zKhaaGkhnMyg@mail.gmail.com>
 <353896797.2124216.1681214929650@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BL3PR10MB621132203CB1B806FA5B1522B99A9@BL3PR10MB6211.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Except with the added caution that when hardware threaded rod galls, it can lock the nut and really mess up the whole ability to remove the rod.  And don't ask me how I know that..

________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2023 7:08 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Re-installing Front Suspension Springs

I've found that conventional hardware store all thread (grade 2) will last long enough to change out one set of springs.  Even with lubrication the thread wears and gets galled.  I went one better and bought some 1/2 inch ACME thread rod and nuts from McMaster-Carr.  Of course, ACME thread nuts won't jam since that effect counts on the angle of the thread and ACME has no angle, the threads are square-cut.  So I drilled the nut and rod at one end and I use a locking pin to keep the nut on the bottom in place throughout the operation.

My tool has been used for many removal/installs and is still good as new.

On the other hand, hardware store threaded rod is available today and will work for one operation and is quick and convenient in acquisition.

Dave




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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue Apr 11 10:20:19 2023
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2023 09:20:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] ZS carb insulators by Good Parts
Message-ID: <CANLCLaFHcLKL=FWPgyy3qfTRQ0RO6YisWFVroNaNMCv_jcfpbw@mail.gmail.com>

For those of you who suffer from hot start issues, do these carb insulators
help?


https://www.goodparts.com/product/spacer-insulator-carb-to-manifold-175cd/

Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Apr 11 12:03:43 2023
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2023 18:03:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Re-installing Front Suspension Springs
In-Reply-To: <BL3PR10MB621132203CB1B806FA5B1522B99A9@BL3PR10MB6211.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <62D5984E-FBE5-438A-A945-25AB9EC89930@comcast.net>
 <CANxnku1EMKBYm33QHEMJiyOw161F5rAAbgvQ=8zKhaaGkhnMyg@mail.gmail.com>
 <353896797.2124216.1681214929650@mail.yahoo.com>
 <BL3PR10MB621132203CB1B806FA5B1522B99A9@BL3PR10MB6211.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <80954298.2330215.1681236223898@mail.yahoo.com>




Sent from AOL on Android
On Tue, Apr 11, 2023 at 9:23, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter<deruiterville at hotmail.com> wrote:Except with the added caution that when hardware threaded rod galls, it can lock the nut and really mess up the whole ability to remove the rod. And don't ask me how I know that..
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2023 7:08 AMTo: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>Subject: Re: [TR] Re-installing Front Suspension Springs?I've found that conventional hardware store all thread (grade 2) will last long enough to change out one set of springs. Even with lubrication the thread wears and gets galled. I went one better and bought some 1/2 inch ACME thread rod and nuts from McMaster-Carr. Of course, ACME thread nuts won't jam since that effect counts on the angle of the thread and ACME has no angle, the threads are square-cut. So I drilled the nut and rod at one end and I use a locking pin to keep the nut on the bottom in place throughout the operation.
My tool has been used for many removal/installs and is still good as new.?
On the other hand, hardware store threaded rod is available today and will work for one operation and is quick and convenient in acquisition.
Dave
Even with a generous application of grease it will gall.












  
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From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Apr 11 21:39:33 2023
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2023 21:39:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] Happy birthday to Team Net
Message-ID: <ccd56c34-b7a8-12db-afab-bd5912148962@bradakis.com>

32 years ago the team.net domain was created.? Hard to believe it has 
been that long!

mjb.



From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 12 07:30:05 2023
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2023 08:30:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] Happy birthday to Team Net
In-Reply-To: <ccd56c34-b7a8-12db-afab-bd5912148962@bradakis.com>
References: <ccd56c34-b7a8-12db-afab-bd5912148962@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <02DA9EB6-9016-48F7-A9FD-75CE244ADFAB@yahoo.com>

Mark, many thank you for keeping us going!
Bill B

?Shoot low sheriff, she?s riding a shetland? ?B.Wills

On Apr 11, 2023, at 11:30 PM, Mark Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

?32 years ago the team.net domain was created.  Hard to believe it has been that long!

mjb.


** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com


From forzion7 at gmail.com  Wed Apr 12 09:02:33 2023
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2023 11:02:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Happy birthday to Team Net
In-Reply-To: <ccd56c34-b7a8-12db-afab-bd5912148962@bradakis.com>
References: <ccd56c34-b7a8-12db-afab-bd5912148962@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwiDsr5Rw+-bKZpY_fQZw+TrmjmZi5SBuJq-3+reTVnVoQ@mail.gmail.com>

Many kudos to you, Mark, for hanging in there for 32 years,
despite the 'challenges'....

Where would we be without your efforts?

Dave

On Wed, Apr 12, 2023 at 12:15?AM Mark Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> 32 years ago the team.net domain was created.  Hard to believe it has
> been that long!
>
> mjb.
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Apr 12 16:25:29 2023
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2023 22:25:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Happy birthday to Team Net
In-Reply-To: <ccd56c34-b7a8-12db-afab-bd5912148962@bradakis.com>
References: <ccd56c34-b7a8-12db-afab-bd5912148962@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <855575283.3059316.1681338329128@mail.yahoo.com>

 Wow,? What dedication.? Where would we be without it?? Probably on Facebook.  :-(? 
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Apr 11, 2023 10:39 pm
Subject: [TR] Happy birthday to Team Net

32 years ago the team.net domain was created.? Hard to believe it has 
been that long!

mjb.


** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com  Wed Apr 12 16:36:08 2023
From: larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com (Larry Griffin)
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2023 18:36:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Happy birthday to Team Net
In-Reply-To: <ccd56c34-b7a8-12db-afab-bd5912148962@bradakis.com>
References: <ccd56c34-b7a8-12db-afab-bd5912148962@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <CAONC1_4=T7+9_Z5PMg3fmDqXRwHamN6QOCTXEATUusYpXddPgw@mail.gmail.com>

Congratulations and thanks for 32 years of team.net , Mark! Also a belated
Happy Birthday!

Time sure flies when you are having fun. ?

I missed the first few years but joined the British Car list around 1993 or
1994 after discovering it from a rec.autos Usenet posting. Somewhere I
think I may even still have a SOL or triumphs.list windshield sticker.

Thanks for all the knowledge and fun you have provided our community over
the years. I'm sure there are cars still on the road that wouldn't be here
without your efforts.

Larry




On Wed, Apr 12, 2023 at 12:23?AM Mark Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> 32 years ago the team.net domain was created.  Hard to believe it has
> been that long!
>
> mjb.
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com
>
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From grglmn at gmail.com  Wed Apr 12 21:52:18 2023
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2023 22:52:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] Happy birthday to Team Net
In-Reply-To: <CAONC1_4=T7+9_Z5PMg3fmDqXRwHamN6QOCTXEATUusYpXddPgw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ccd56c34-b7a8-12db-afab-bd5912148962@bradakis.com>
 <CAONC1_4=T7+9_Z5PMg3fmDqXRwHamN6QOCTXEATUusYpXddPgw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aaO-6nDHwNiMiZYHJ_++RRwJ-+FWpMj__viQx9WjGD37Q@mail.gmail.com>

I was not on the email listserv til later in the game, but I discovered the
Scions of Lucas website in the early 90s when I don't have email and the
only internet access I had was at work (sorry work).  Could this kind of
thing would be a game changer for our little hobby, but never imagined to
what extent.

Has been around over half my life, I guess I can't call it "new technology"
anymore.

Thanks for keeping the fires burning Mark.

Greg Lemon

On Wed, Apr 12, 2023, 10:46 PM Larry Griffin <larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Congratulations and thanks for 32 years of team.net , Mark! Also a
> belated Happy Birthday!
>
> Time sure flies when you are having fun. ?
>
> I missed the first few years but joined the British Car list around 1993
> or 1994 after discovering it from a rec.autos Usenet posting. Somewhere I
> think I may even still have a SOL or triumphs.list windshield sticker.
>
> Thanks for all the knowledge and fun you have provided our community over
> the years. I'm sure there are cars still on the road that wouldn't be here
> without your efforts.
>
> Larry
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 12, 2023 at 12:23?AM Mark Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:
>
>> 32 years ago the team.net domain was created.  Hard to believe it has
>> been that long!
>>
>> mjb.
>>
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com
>>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Thu Apr 13 07:24:35 2023
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert)
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2023 09:24:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Re-installing Front Suspension Springs
In-Reply-To: <BL3PR10MB621132203CB1B806FA5B1522B99A9@BL3PR10MB6211.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <62D5984E-FBE5-438A-A945-25AB9EC89930@comcast.net>
 <CANxnku1EMKBYm33QHEMJiyOw161F5rAAbgvQ=8zKhaaGkhnMyg@mail.gmail.com>
 <353896797.2124216.1681214929650@mail.yahoo.com>
 <BL3PR10MB621132203CB1B806FA5B1522B99A9@BL3PR10MB6211.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <EFF53248-ED17-4C28-8140-9A9F2F7BAD78@comcast.net>

	Thanks to everyone for their input on my reinstalling the front springs into my TR6. I appreciate your taking the time to share your expertise. 
	I did manage to reinstall the springs yesterday with a small modification to the AutoZone spring compressor.  I?m amazed that my first go around in installing the springs was so uneventful that I had no recollection of any difficulty.  I did find the steel rod, nuts and plate that I apparently used to compress the springs last time, but as I compressed the spring I could see that I was headed for trouble.  The springs need to be compressed far more than I had the confidence to use that rig on.  Dave and Randy correctly pointed out that hardware threaded rod is not suitable for spring compression.  To get the springs compressed enough to slip into the spring pan requires a lot of compression force and, as was pointed out, putting something under that much compression force can be dangerous.
	I am going to send the photos I posted to the list to Polybush, but I?m not hopeful of much of a response. My guess is that I?m not the only one who the only one who has had such a catastrophic failure of their bushes and they may be playing big time defense and denial. 
	Lastly, best wishes to Mark and team.net.  We all owe you a debt of gratitude for helping us to keep our cars on the road by facilitating sage lister advice.
	Best,
	Bob
	?72 TR6


From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Thu Apr 13 08:56:02 2023
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2023 07:56:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Happy birthday to Team Net
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aaO-6nDHwNiMiZYHJ_++RRwJ-+FWpMj__viQx9WjGD37Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ccd56c34-b7a8-12db-afab-bd5912148962@bradakis.com>
 <CAONC1_4=T7+9_Z5PMg3fmDqXRwHamN6QOCTXEATUusYpXddPgw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFtw3aaO-6nDHwNiMiZYHJ_++RRwJ-+FWpMj__viQx9WjGD37Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <bf7ccf8b-0b03-46a2-5965-23bfa7f50192@gmail.com>

On 4/12/23 8:52 PM, Greg Lemon wrote:
> I was not on the email listserv til later in the game, but I 
> discovered the Scions of Lucas website in the early 90s when I don't 
> have email and the only internet access I had was at work (sorry 
> work).? Could this kind of thing would be a game changer for our 
> little hobby, but never imagined to what extent.

Dale at Apollo Computers founded the original email list, Scions of 
Lucas, in 1987. He started out by going through news notes looking for 
people posting about British cars and inviting them to join the new 
email list. I got invited because I was asking TR3 questions on the news 
group. Back then the single email group covered all British cars.

TeriAnn



From triumphstag at gmail.com  Sun Apr 16 21:32:21 2023
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2023 20:32:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] Steering rack boot
In-Reply-To: <000001d96a7d$52805a60$f7810f20$@triumphstagclub.org>
References: <CANLCLaE3sKiktR3ywKu67SZUYH84+6ZkqOMg25He4-aRzTGRuQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <000001d96a7d$52805a60$f7810f20$@triumphstagclub.org>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaFguK9zGDfxx74B_Yo2pdd8ntbh5A_fePvptMcuZMm7kw@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Glenn,
I ordered one and it seems that it will fit. The smaller hole at the end is
a bit tighter, but there is more meat on it.

Here's a short video I made.

Sujit

On Sat, Apr 8, 2023 at 5:50?PM <stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org> wrote:

> Sujit,
>
> Yes, I have had one supplier?s boots turn to cheese after about 2 years.
>
>
>
> The racks I have had rebuilt at Atlantic where they replaced the boots on
> rebuild have lasted many years, but I do not know where they sourced their
> parts.  Best guess since they started out as a Jaguar rack rebuilder that
> they know what fits across different units, BUT, I have not corresponded
> with them in at least 8 years since the original owner sold the company to
> one of the big rebuilders.
>
>
>
> Also, it seems to me that the XJS Rack from the period is a very similar
> Adwest unit for parts, the mounting cast aluminum ends are different but
> swappable for the Stag and the early style ball end rods, but don?t hold me
> to that without first finding the assembly part numbers from a Jaguar guru
> like XK?s Unlimited which I think has also been sold to Moss?
>
>
>
> For $9/$18 for the pair and free shipping, and free returns, try them, you
> can always send them back as crap, nice thing about Amazon Prime.
>
>
>
> Glenn aka StagByTriumph Garage
>
>
>
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Sujit
> Roy
> *Sent:* Saturday, April 8, 2023 12:19 PM
> *To:* Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [TR] Steering rack boot
>
>
>
> The aftermarket rubber coming out of UK is rather poor.
>
>
>
> Some how this came up and someone in the reviews said it worked on their
> TR7.  I have a Stag,but searches show the TR7/8 Jag XJS are a few other
> british cars have use the same type.
>
>
>
> Has anyone found something similar made by a USA brand company?
>
>
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HHNGG1K/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
>
>
>
> Sujit
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
>
>
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>


-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From harrymague at aol.com  Tue Apr 18 19:05:57 2023
From: harrymague at aol.com (Harry)
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2023 01:05:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] 90w oil or grease
References: <1726078713.5802381.1681866357554.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1726078713.5802381.1681866357554@mail.yahoo.com>

Age old question.? I am rebuilding my 1974 TR6 front suspension with a Roadster Factory complete kit.? I have always used bearing grease on the lower trunnions.? I am wondering what the latest consensus is on oil versus grease.? Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.? Thanks? ?Harry M.
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From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Apr 19 01:34:49 2023
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2023 01:34:49 -0600
Subject: [TR] 90w oil or grease
In-Reply-To: <1726078713.5802381.1681866357554@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1726078713.5802381.1681866357554.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1726078713.5802381.1681866357554@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <414e9331-a900-5f6c-8ba1-85f431ad8ae0@bradakis.com>


On 4/18/23 7:05 PM, Harry wrote:
> Age old question.? I am rebuilding my 1974 TR6 front suspension with a 
> Roadster Factory complete kit.? I have always used bearing grease on 
> the lower trunnions.? I am wondering what the latest consensus is on 
> oil versus grease.? Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.? Thanks? 
> ?Harry M.
>
You'll be fine using any good, modern grease.? Back 60, 70 years ago oil 
was specified because it stayed a liquid, while greases common to the 
era would often harden, get waxy and no longer flow.? So they wouldn't 
keep the parts lubricated.? Not an issue these days.? We used to use a 
blue. lithium based marine grease at Bailey's back before Mike retired.? 
Might have been a Sta-Lube product, I don't rightly recall.? The perils 
of getting older!

mjb.

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From ptegler at verizon.net  Wed Apr 19 04:28:25 2023
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2023 06:28:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] 90w oil or grease
In-Reply-To: <414e9331-a900-5f6c-8ba1-85f431ad8ae0@bradakis.com>
References: <1726078713.5802381.1681866357554.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1726078713.5802381.1681866357554@mail.yahoo.com>
 <414e9331-a900-5f6c-8ba1-85f431ad8ae0@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <3648894e-505d-0906-8ca3-65a4cdb718f0@verizon.net>

agree with the logistics of how grease has changed since the 60s-70s, 
but the reason for oil was to allow bronze bit that wear (faster than 
the steel upright) to fall through the oil to the bottom rather than 
remain in suspension and act as a grinding compound in the contact area.

ptegler


On 4/19/2023 3:34 AM, Mark Bradakis wrote:
>
>
> On 4/18/23 7:05 PM, Harry wrote:
>> Age old question.? I am rebuilding my 1974 TR6 front suspension with 
>> a Roadster Factory complete kit.? I have always used bearing grease 
>> on the lower trunnions.? I am wondering what the latest consensus is 
>> on oil versus grease.? Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.? 
>> Thanks? ?Harry M.
>>
> You'll be fine using any good, modern grease.? Back 60, 70 years ago 
> oil was specified because it stayed a liquid, while greases common to 
> the era would often harden, get waxy and no longer flow.? So they 
> wouldn't keep the parts lubricated.? Not an issue these days.? We used 
> to use a blue. lithium based marine grease at Bailey's back before 
> Mike retired.? Might have been a Sta-Lube product, I don't rightly 
> recall.? The perils of getting older!
>
> mjb.
>
>
>
> **triumphs at autox.team.net  **
>
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs   http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net

-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net   www.teglerizer.com
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From john at linneyweb.com  Wed Apr 19 07:28:00 2023
From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney)
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2023 14:28:00 +0100
Subject: [TR] 90w oil or grease
In-Reply-To: <1726078713.5802381.1681866357554@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1726078713.5802381.1681866357554@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CC948ACF-5511-4B6C-9066-55EC14A33F45@linneyweb.com>

My experience. Oil just leaks out. I hear they specified it back in the day because the greases of the time broke down and were dirt magnets. I used Redline CV2 in my rebuild and am very happy with it. 

> On Apr 19, 2023, at 3:33 AM, Harry <harrymague at aol.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Age old question.  I am rebuilding my 1974 TR6 front suspension with a Roadster Factory complete kit.  I have always used bearing grease on the lower trunnions.  I am wondering what the latest consensus is on oil versus grease.  Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.  Thanks   Harry M.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john at linneyweb.com
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From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Tue Apr 25 22:13:47 2023
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2023 23:13:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tom Householder RIP
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFDv7=ZxQ5cUaFeQn_dSVjUNgBHuhmau0xMXXyFr8RYnpg@mail.gmail.com>

For those who haven't heard yet, Tom Householder, great friend to the
Triumph and Doretti marques, died on April 15, 2023 after being in failing
health for over a year.

Here's his obituary from his hometown newspaper.
https://www.lancastereaglegazette.com/obituaries/mnj256898

Tom was an active poster on this list in years past, and especially valued
the FoT community.

Tom described his life around TRs in a profile in the TRA Newsletter from
November 2017.  In that article he described going to sea from
Jacksonville, looking back at his TR3A and imagining a whole parking lot
full of Triumphs.  That image led him a couple of years later to put a
handwritten note in the parts department of Ernie Harter's Triumph
dealership in Lancaster Ohio asking if anyone wanted to start a car club.
>From those seeds the Triumph Register of America grew.

(And, BTW, the front apron from that TR3A , shown here in Florida
with Tom's dog Skipper, is on my TR3B now:
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-xJnH7xR/0/b1f88787/O/i-xJnH7xR.jpg)

I met Tom 44 years ago when we worked at the same research institute, and
the TR3B I have today was through his matchmaking.  His family had a big
auction of his TR and Doretti cars, parts, and ephemera in February so some
of the rare bits he'd accumulated will remain in the hobby for years to
come.

My last visit with my friend was a month or so ago and he stated he was
comfortable and at peace.  He missed his wife and best friend Susie, who
predeceased him by about two years.  Tom, those of you who knew him will
understand, lived his own life by his own and often ornery rules, but he
was always there to help friends and always had a (usually off-color) joke
to tell.  He thought sometimes he should have been born a hundred years or
more earlier when his simple and independent self-reliance would have been
more common and maybe more helpful in life -- he was probably not wrong
there!

Here are Tom and Susie out to dinner in 2016:
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-BGbHCqN/0/d9e06ac7/XL/i-BGbHCqN-XL.jpg

Rest in peace, Tom.
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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Apr 26 00:56:25 2023
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (yellowtr at adelphia.net)
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2023 02:56:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tom Householder RIP
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFDv7=ZxQ5cUaFeQn_dSVjUNgBHuhmau0xMXXyFr8RYnpg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFDv7=ZxQ5cUaFeQn_dSVjUNgBHuhmau0xMXXyFr8RYnpg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <98e2c7e5-4763-6082-31a7-e33eb398e09b@roadrunner.com>

Don,

Sad news. Tom was my age. Way too young.

I have been donating my parts for the past 2 years to 
https://britishautosalvage.com/index.html.

I finished my last restoration over 12 years ago so I figured let the 
parts go in order to keep the Triumph mark alive. My hopes are the 
younger kids find the joy all of us have had for decades long after I am 
gone.

RIP Tom.

Bob

On 4/26/23 12:13 AM, Don Hiscock wrote:
> For those who haven't heard yet, Tom Householder, great friend to the 
> Triumph and Doretti marques, died on April 15, 2023 after being in 
> failing health for over a year.
>
> Here's his obituary from his hometown newspaper.
> https://www.lancastereaglegazette.com/obituaries/mnj256898
>
> Tom was an active poster on this list in years past, and especially 
> valued the FoT community.
>
> Tom described his life around TRs in a profile in the TRA Newsletter 
> from November 2017.? In that article he described going to sea from 
> Jacksonville, looking back at his TR3A and imagining a whole parking 
> lot full of Triumphs.? That image led him a couple of years later to 
> put a handwritten note in the parts department of Ernie Harter's 
> Triumph dealership in Lancaster Ohio asking if anyone wanted to start 
> a car club.? From those seeds the Triumph Register of America grew.
>
> (And, BTW, the front apron from that TR3A , shown here in Florida 
> with?Tom's dog Skipper, is on my TR3B now: 
> https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-xJnH7xR/0/b1f88787/O/i-xJnH7xR.jpg)
>
> I met Tom 44 years ago when we worked at the same research institute, 
> and the TR3B I have today was through his matchmaking.? His family had 
> a big auction of his TR and Doretti cars, parts, and ephemera in 
> February so some of the rare bits he'd accumulated will remain in the 
> hobby for years to come.
>
> My last visit with my friend was a month or so ago and he stated he 
> was comfortable and at peace.? He missed his wife and best friend 
> Susie, who predeceased him by about two years.? Tom, those of you who 
> knew him will understand, lived his own life by his own?and often 
> ornery rules, but he was always there to help friends and always had a 
> (usually off-color) joke to tell.? He thought sometimes he should have 
> been born a hundred years or more earlier when his simple and 
> independent self-reliance would have been more common and maybe more 
> helpful in life -- he was probably not wrong there!
>
> Here are Tom and Susie out to dinner in 2016:
> https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-BGbHCqN/0/d9e06ac7/XL/i-BGbHCqN-XL.jpg
>
> Rest in peace, Tom.
>
>
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Wed Apr 26 04:41:46 2023
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2023 06:41:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tom Householder RIP
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFDv7=ZxQ5cUaFeQn_dSVjUNgBHuhmau0xMXXyFr8RYnpg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFDv7=ZxQ5cUaFeQn_dSVjUNgBHuhmau0xMXXyFr8RYnpg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2AF9B599-A1A3-4FAE-832C-D83F882F267F@gmail.com>

Don,
Thanks for sharing that heartfelt story and pictures.  As a longtime Triumph guy, it means a lot.  
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL

> On Apr 26, 2023, at 12:42 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> For those who haven't heard yet, Tom Householder, great friend to the Triumph and Doretti marques, died on April 15, 2023 after being in failing health for over a year. 
> 
> Here's his obituary from his hometown newspaper.
> https://www.lancastereaglegazette.com/obituaries/mnj256898
> 
> Tom was an active poster on this list in years past, and especially valued the FoT community.
> 
> Tom described his life around TRs in a profile in the TRA Newsletter from November 2017.  In that article he described going to sea from Jacksonville, looking back at his TR3A and imagining a whole parking lot full of Triumphs.  That image led him a couple of years later to put a handwritten note in the parts department of Ernie Harter's Triumph dealership in Lancaster Ohio asking if anyone wanted to start a car club.  From those seeds the Triumph Register of America grew.  
> 
> (And, BTW, the front apron from that TR3A , shown here in Florida with Tom's dog Skipper, is on my TR3B now: https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-xJnH7xR/0/b1f88787/O/i-xJnH7xR.jpg)
> 
> I met Tom 44 years ago when we worked at the same research institute, and the TR3B I have today was through his matchmaking.  His family had a big auction of his TR and Doretti cars, parts, and ephemera in February so some of the rare bits he'd accumulated will remain in the hobby for years to come.
> 
> My last visit with my friend was a month or so ago and he stated he was comfortable and at peace.  He missed his wife and best friend Susie, who predeceased him by about two years.  Tom, those of you who knew him will understand, lived his own life by his own and often ornery rules, but he was always there to help friends and always had a (usually off-color) joke to tell.  He thought sometimes he should have been born a hundred years or more earlier when his simple and independent self-reliance would have been more common and maybe more helpful in life -- he was probably not wrong there!
> 
> Here are Tom and Susie out to dinner in 2016:
> https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-BGbHCqN/0/d9e06ac7/XL/i-BGbHCqN-XL.jpg
> 
> Rest in peace, Tom.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 26 07:37:48 2023
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2023 08:37:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tom Householder RIP
In-Reply-To: <2AF9B599-A1A3-4FAE-832C-D83F882F267F@gmail.com>
References: <2AF9B599-A1A3-4FAE-832C-D83F882F267F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ED5EC94E-2149-4A52-AB99-0E0A618F4815@yahoo.com>

I have a small TR3 display on my wall centered by an aged plaque with the triumph bonnet letters that Tom gave me embedded.  Many friendly phone calls, lots of TR & Doretti talks.  
RIP Tom,
Bill B
TS30800L

?Shoot low sheriff, she?s riding a shetland? ?B.Wills

On Apr 26, 2023, at 5:47 AM, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:

?
Don,
Thanks for sharing that heartfelt story and pictures.  As a longtime Triumph guy, it means a lot.  
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL

> On Apr 26, 2023, at 12:42 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> For those who haven't heard yet, Tom Householder, great friend to the Triumph and Doretti marques, died on April 15, 2023 after being in failing health for over a year. 
> 
> Here's his obituary from his hometown newspaper.
> https://www.lancastereaglegazette.com/obituaries/mnj256898
> 
> Tom was an active poster on this list in years past, and especially valued the FoT community.
> 
> Tom described his life around TRs in a profile in the TRA Newsletter from November 2017.  In that article he described going to sea from Jacksonville, looking back at his TR3A and imagining a whole parking lot full of Triumphs.  That image led him a couple of years later to put a handwritten note in the parts department of Ernie Harter's Triumph dealership in Lancaster Ohio asking if anyone wanted to start a car club.  From those seeds the Triumph Register of America grew.  
> 
> (And, BTW, the front apron from that TR3A , shown here in Florida with Tom's dog Skipper, is on my TR3B now: https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-xJnH7xR/0/b1f88787/O/i-xJnH7xR.jpg)
> 
> I met Tom 44 years ago when we worked at the same research institute, and the TR3B I have today was through his matchmaking.  His family had a big auction of his TR and Doretti cars, parts, and ephemera in February so some of the rare bits he'd accumulated will remain in the hobby for years to come.
> 
> My last visit with my friend was a month or so ago and he stated he was comfortable and at peace.  He missed his wife and best friend Susie, who predeceased him by about two years.  Tom, those of you who knew him will understand, lived his own life by his own and often ornery rules, but he was always there to help friends and always had a (usually off-color) joke to tell.  He thought sometimes he should have been born a hundred years or more earlier when his simple and independent self-reliance would have been more common and maybe more helpful in life -- he was probably not wrong there!
> 
> Here are Tom and Susie out to dinner in 2016:
> https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-BGbHCqN/0/d9e06ac7/XL/i-BGbHCqN-XL.jpg
> 
> Rest in peace, Tom.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From grglmn at gmail.com  Wed Apr 26 11:52:11 2023
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2023 12:52:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tom Householder RIP
In-Reply-To: <2AF9B599-A1A3-4FAE-832C-D83F882F267F@gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFDv7=ZxQ5cUaFeQn_dSVjUNgBHuhmau0xMXXyFr8RYnpg@mail.gmail.com>
 <2AF9B599-A1A3-4FAE-832C-D83F882F267F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aZ_tAEH21Lk=n3S9a=zM1NUmQCOvGEQA9rcn4iQUw8xmA@mail.gmail.com>

I corresponded with Tom quite a bit we were trying to track down a Swallow
Doretti that was in my hometown several years ago.  Never got very far
looking for the car, but he left no stone unturned in his search.  Sorry to
hear of his passing.  RIP.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Wed, Apr 26, 2023, 5:43 AM Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Don,
> Thanks for sharing that heartfelt story and pictures.  As a longtime
> Triumph guy, it means a lot.
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala, FL
>
> On Apr 26, 2023, at 12:42 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
> For those who haven't heard yet, Tom Householder, great friend to the
> Triumph and Doretti marques, died on April 15, 2023 after being in failing
> health for over a year.
>
> Here's his obituary from his hometown newspaper.
> https://www.lancastereaglegazette.com/obituaries/mnj256898
>
> Tom was an active poster on this list in years past, and especially valued
> the FoT community.
>
> Tom described his life around TRs in a profile in the TRA Newsletter from
> November 2017.  In that article he described going to sea from
> Jacksonville, looking back at his TR3A and imagining a whole parking lot
> full of Triumphs.  That image led him a couple of years later to put a
> handwritten note in the parts department of Ernie Harter's Triumph
> dealership in Lancaster Ohio asking if anyone wanted to start a car club.
> From those seeds the Triumph Register of America grew.
>
> (And, BTW, the front apron from that TR3A , shown here in Florida
> with Tom's dog Skipper, is on my TR3B now:
> https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-xJnH7xR/0/b1f88787/O/i-xJnH7xR.jpg)
>
> I met Tom 44 years ago when we worked at the same research institute, and
> the TR3B I have today was through his matchmaking.  His family had a big
> auction of his TR and Doretti cars, parts, and ephemera in February so some
> of the rare bits he'd accumulated will remain in the hobby for years to
> come.
>
> My last visit with my friend was a month or so ago and he stated he was
> comfortable and at peace.  He missed his wife and best friend Susie, who
> predeceased him by about two years.  Tom, those of you who knew him will
> understand, lived his own life by his own and often ornery rules, but he
> was always there to help friends and always had a (usually off-color) joke
> to tell.  He thought sometimes he should have been born a hundred years or
> more earlier when his simple and independent self-reliance would have been
> more common and maybe more helpful in life -- he was probably not wrong
> there!
>
> Here are Tom and Susie out to dinner in 2016:
> https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-BGbHCqN/0/d9e06ac7/XL/i-BGbHCqN-XL.jpg
>
> Rest in peace, Tom.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com  Wed Apr 26 14:00:41 2023
From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton)
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2023 20:00:41 +0000
Subject: [TR] Tom Householder RIP
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aZ_tAEH21Lk=n3S9a=zM1NUmQCOvGEQA9rcn4iQUw8xmA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFDv7=ZxQ5cUaFeQn_dSVjUNgBHuhmau0xMXXyFr8RYnpg@mail.gmail.com>
 <2AF9B599-A1A3-4FAE-832C-D83F882F267F@gmail.com>
 <CAFtw3aZ_tAEH21Lk=n3S9a=zM1NUmQCOvGEQA9rcn4iQUw8xmA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DED0CF73-0AF5-4CB4-A546-D31D94C456D4@stevethorntonlaw.com>

Guys-

Like many of you, I have known Tom for a long time. Scotch is an acquired taste. So was Tom. Once your friend, though, he was as loyal as they come.

One funny story about Tom. He was on his way to TRF one year in his RHD Doretti. He was stopped for speeding. His driver?s license was not currently in service. The police officer walked up to the left side of the car ( assuming the is where the driver would be) and asked for license and registration. His traveling companion gave him her license and the car?s registration. She received a warning and they traveled on to TRF. The officer never observed the location of the steering wheel!

That was Tom in a nutshell. Fun, pushing boundaries, loyal and loved everything TR.

There are many more Tom stories, but I will save them for another time.

Godspeed Tom.



Sent from my iPad


Steven O. Thornton
1011 Lehman Avenue
Bowling Green, KY. 42103
270-781-6630


On Apr 26, 2023, at 1:09 PM, Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com> wrote:

?
I corresponded with Tom quite a bit we were trying to track down a Swallow Doretti that was in my hometown several years ago.  Never got very far looking for the car, but he left no stone unturned in his search.  Sorry to hear of his passing.  RIP.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Wed, Apr 26, 2023, 5:43 AM Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com<mailto:trguy75 at gmail.com>> wrote:
Don,
Thanks for sharing that heartfelt story and pictures.  As a longtime Triumph guy, it means a lot.
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL

On Apr 26, 2023, at 12:42 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com<mailto:don.hiscock at gmail.com>> wrote:

?
For those who haven't heard yet, Tom Householder, great friend to the Triumph and Doretti marques, died on April 15, 2023 after being in failing health for over a year.

Here's his obituary from his hometown newspaper.
https://www.lancastereaglegazette.com/obituaries/mnj256898

Tom was an active poster on this list in years past, and especially valued the FoT community.

Tom described his life around TRs in a profile in the TRA Newsletter from November 2017.  In that article he described going to sea from Jacksonville, looking back at his TR3A and imagining a whole parking lot full of Triumphs.  That image led him a couple of years later to put a handwritten note in the parts department of Ernie Harter's Triumph dealership in Lancaster Ohio asking if anyone wanted to start a car club.  From those seeds the Triumph Register of America grew.

(And, BTW, the front apron from that TR3A , shown here in Florida with Tom's dog Skipper, is on my TR3B now: https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-xJnH7xR/0/b1f88787/O/i-xJnH7xR.jpg)

I met Tom 44 years ago when we worked at the same research institute, and the TR3B I have today was through his matchmaking.  His family had a big auction of his TR and Doretti cars, parts, and ephemera in February so some of the rare bits he'd accumulated will remain in the hobby for years to come.

My last visit with my friend was a month or so ago and he stated he was comfortable and at peace.  He missed his wife and best friend Susie, who predeceased him by about two years.  Tom, those of you who knew him will understand, lived his own life by his own and often ornery rules, but he was always there to help friends and always had a (usually off-color) joke to tell.  He thought sometimes he should have been born a hundred years or more earlier when his simple and independent self-reliance would have been more common and maybe more helpful in life -- he was probably not wrong there!

Here are Tom and Susie out to dinner in 2016:
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-BGbHCqN/0/d9e06ac7/XL/i-BGbHCqN-XL.jpg

Rest in peace, Tom.
** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From johnbmacartney at gmx.com  Thu Apr 27 02:12:43 2023
From: johnbmacartney at gmx.com (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2023 09:12:43 +0100
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 16, Issue 61
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6.1682532003.3561.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6.1682532003.3561.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <3385F0D3-C2DB-41EE-89BB-0C0CFCA8CE3B@gmx.com>

Yet more sad news about Tom Householder.

We never met but corresponded frequently on diverse Standard-Triumph aspects. RIP Tom. You?re now with all the Swallow Dorettis and Triumphs that have gone on before and then you?ll know what many thousands look like when parked together. Too many people will miss you.

Jonmac

Sent from a piece of electronic papyrus I found in King Tut?s tomb

> On 26 Apr 2023, at 19:00, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
> Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
>    triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>    triumphs-request at autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>    triumphs-owner at autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Tom Householder RIP (Don Hiscock)
>   2. Re: Tom Householder RIP (yellowtr at adelphia.net)
>   3. Re: Tom Householder RIP (Jim Henningsen)
>   4. Re: Tom Householder RIP (bill beecher)
>   5. Re: Tom Householder RIP (Greg Lemon)
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> _______________________________________________
> 
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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Apr 27 06:43:06 2023
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (yellowtr at adelphia.net)
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2023 08:43:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid
Message-ID: <adb7565a-363b-13b6-1a2a-41d0f9419b44@roadrunner.com>

Hello,

I need to get some dot 5 brake fluid but the brand TRF sold is no longer 
stocked.

Anyone have a source for Blue Magic Dot 5? Or an alternative?

Thanks,

Bob


From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Apr 27 07:03:25 2023
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2023 13:03:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <adb7565a-363b-13b6-1a2a-41d0f9419b44@roadrunner.com>
References: <adb7565a-363b-13b6-1a2a-41d0f9419b44@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <220633052.828139.1682600605439@mail.yahoo.com>

 My most recent purchase was from MOSS.
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Apr 27, 2023 7:43 am
Subject: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid

Hello,

I need to get some dot 5 brake fluid but the brand TRF sold is no longer 
stocked.

Anyone have a source for Blue Magic Dot 5? Or an alternative?

Thanks,

Bob

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 27 07:06:23 2023
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2023 08:06:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <adb7565a-363b-13b6-1a2a-41d0f9419b44@roadrunner.com>
References: <adb7565a-363b-13b6-1a2a-41d0f9419b44@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <FED8969A-CF34-4CD5-A939-B80EF592602F@yahoo.com>

I get mine at the local NAPA store. 
Bill

?Shoot low sheriff, she?s riding a shetland? ?B.Wills

On Apr 27, 2023, at 7:47 AM, yellowtr at adelphia.net wrote:

?Hello,

I need to get some dot 5 brake fluid but the brand TRF sold is no longer stocked.

Anyone have a source for Blue Magic Dot 5? Or an alternative?

Thanks,

Bob

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Apr 27 08:20:03 2023
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2023 14:20:03 +0000
Subject: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <adb7565a-363b-13b6-1a2a-41d0f9419b44@roadrunner.com>
References: <adb7565a-363b-13b6-1a2a-41d0f9419b44@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <f2b4a78eb74340a9926a08fc81db9e05@ranteer.com>

Napa carries it,  as does o'Reilly.


-------- Original message --------
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net
Date: 4/27/23 8:08 AM (GMT-06:00)
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid

Hello,

I need to get some dot 5 brake fluid but the brand TRF sold is no longer
stocked.

Anyone have a source for Blue Magic Dot 5? Or an alternative?

Thanks,

Bob

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Thu Apr 27 09:39:47 2023
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2023 10:39:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <adb7565a-363b-13b6-1a2a-41d0f9419b44@roadrunner.com>
References: <adb7565a-363b-13b6-1a2a-41d0f9419b44@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFBh8Pn3JaVkcAOpohrGK28GCLf9Fj-=PYE=j9v=5dhU6Q@mail.gmail.com>

The idea of a DOT standard is interchangeable compatibility, isn't it?  I'm
sure I've mixed various brands of brake fluid within a DOT class over the
years without a second thought.  I haven't had to add or change DOT5 on my
TR3B yet, but when I do I'll be sure to meet the standard and probably
won't give a thought to who made the original fluid.

There are only so many companies basic in silicones anyway, so it's quite
likely the same silicone oil in many producers' individual brands.

On Thu, Apr 27, 2023 at 7:54?AM <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I need to get some dot 5 brake fluid but the brand TRF sold is no longer
> stocked.
>
> Anyone have a source for Blue Magic Dot 5? Or an alternative?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com
>
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From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Apr 27 11:28:22 2023
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2023 17:28:22 +0000
Subject: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFBh8Pn3JaVkcAOpohrGK28GCLf9Fj-=PYE=j9v=5dhU6Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <adb7565a-363b-13b6-1a2a-41d0f9419b44@roadrunner.com>,
 <CAPK7CFBh8Pn3JaVkcAOpohrGK28GCLf9Fj-=PYE=j9v=5dhU6Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <337c8a0148fd44a6ac16be18cb244330@ranteer.com>

Likely true.  For example, worldwide there are 3 manufacturers of anti freeze.   BASF is one.  Yet there are a thousand brands


-------- Original message --------
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
Date: 4/27/23 12:15 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: yellowtr at adelphia.net
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid

The idea of a DOT standard is interchangeable compatibility, isn't it?  I'm sure I've mixed various brands of brake fluid within a DOT class over the years without a second thought.  I haven't had to add or change DOT5 on my TR3B yet, but when I do I'll be sure to meet the standard and probably won't give a thought to who made the original fluid.

There are only so many companies basic in silicones anyway, so it's quite likely the same silicone oil in many producers' individual brands.

On Thu, Apr 27, 2023 at 7:54?AM <yellowtr at adelphia.net<mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net>> wrote:
Hello,

I need to get some dot 5 brake fluid but the brand TRF sold is no longer
stocked.

Anyone have a source for Blue Magic Dot 5? Or an alternative?

Thanks,

Bob

** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From j_bar_j at hotmail.com  Thu Apr 27 12:30:04 2023
From: j_bar_j at hotmail.com (Joel Justin)
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2023 18:30:04 +0000
Subject: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <f2b4a78eb74340a9926a08fc81db9e05@ranteer.com>
References: <adb7565a-363b-13b6-1a2a-41d0f9419b44@roadrunner.com>
 <f2b4a78eb74340a9926a08fc81db9e05@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <BYAPR10MB2776196C026D12B9BC0E4052BE6A9@BYAPR10MB2776.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Any DOT 5 (Silicone) brake fluid is interchangeable. I use Mac's from NAPA. But never mix DOT 5 with DOT 3, 4 or 5.1 as they are incompatible.

Joel...


________________________________
From: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2023 7:20 AM
To: yellowtr at adelphia.net <yellowtr at adelphia.net>; Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid

Napa carries it,  as does o'Reilly.


-------- Original message --------
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net
Date: 4/27/23 8:08 AM (GMT-06:00)
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid

Hello,

I need to get some dot 5 brake fluid but the brand TRF sold is no longer
stocked.

Anyone have a source for Blue Magic Dot 5? Or an alternative?

Thanks,

Bob

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Apr 27 12:45:55 2023
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2023 18:45:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFBh8Pn3JaVkcAOpohrGK28GCLf9Fj-=PYE=j9v=5dhU6Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <adb7565a-363b-13b6-1a2a-41d0f9419b44@roadrunner.com>
 <CAPK7CFBh8Pn3JaVkcAOpohrGK28GCLf9Fj-=PYE=j9v=5dhU6Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1231654170.1035756.1682621155103@mail.yahoo.com>

 Some likely came off the same production line.? Different label and maybe even a different bottle but same product.
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
To: yellowtr at adelphia.net
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Apr 27, 2023 10:39 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid

The idea of a DOT standard is interchangeable?compatibility, isn't it?? I'm sure I've mixed various brands of brake fluid within a DOT class over the years without a second thought.? I haven't had to add or change DOT5 on my TR3B yet, but when I do I'll be sure to meet the standard and probably won't give a thought to who made the original fluid.
There are only so many companies basic?in silicones anyway, so it's quite likely the same silicone oil in many producers' individual brands.
On Thu, Apr 27, 2023 at 7:54?AM <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:

Hello,

I need to get some dot 5 brake fluid but the brand TRF sold is no longer 
stocked.

Anyone have a source for Blue Magic Dot 5? Or an alternative?

Thanks,

Bob

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

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From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Thu Apr 27 12:58:37 2023
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2023 13:58:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <1231654170.1035756.1682621155103@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <adb7565a-363b-13b6-1a2a-41d0f9419b44@roadrunner.com>
 <CAPK7CFBh8Pn3JaVkcAOpohrGK28GCLf9Fj-=PYE=j9v=5dhU6Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <1231654170.1035756.1682621155103@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFCE0_pug8AnaTvU2GK2VTxUYQSTUcrzTi3UH6sJT+fOUQ@mail.gmail.com>

"Dow Chemical Company, Wacker Chemie AG, Momentive Performance Materials
Inc., Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and Elkem Silicones, among others, are
the major players in the global silicones and siloxanes market."

source:
https://www.expertmarketresearch.com/articles/top-5-companies-in-the-global-silicones-and-siloxanes-market

Momentive is the former GE silicones business and Elkem, originally
Norwegian-owned, is now owned by a Chinese parent company.

On Thu, Apr 27, 2023 at 1:45?PM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

> Some likely came off the same production line.  Different label and maybe
> even a different bottle but same product.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
> To: yellowtr at adelphia.net
> Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, Apr 27, 2023 10:39 am
> Subject: Re: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid
>
> The idea of a DOT standard is interchangeable compatibility, isn't it?
> I'm sure I've mixed various brands of brake fluid within a DOT class over
> the years without a second thought.  I haven't had to add or change DOT5 on
> my TR3B yet, but when I do I'll be sure to meet the standard and probably
> won't give a thought to who made the original fluid.
>
> There are only so many companies basic in silicones anyway, so it's quite
> likely the same silicone oil in many producers' individual brands.
>
> On Thu, Apr 27, 2023 at 7:54?AM <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I need to get some dot 5 brake fluid but the brand TRF sold is no longer
> stocked.
>
> Anyone have a source for Blue Magic Dot 5? Or an alternative?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
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From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Thu Apr 27 13:00:50 2023
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2023 14:00:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR10MB2776196C026D12B9BC0E4052BE6A9@BYAPR10MB2776.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <adb7565a-363b-13b6-1a2a-41d0f9419b44@roadrunner.com>
 <f2b4a78eb74340a9926a08fc81db9e05@ranteer.com>
 <BYAPR10MB2776196C026D12B9BC0E4052BE6A9@BYAPR10MB2776.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFC+PCZM7_EpFPHN0TzLMEBUbGY8diqurvpQZ4Vp=gZLJg@mail.gmail.com>

The nomenclature around DOT5 (silicone) and DOT5.1 (glycol) never made any
sense to me...

On Thu, Apr 27, 2023 at 1:58?PM Joel Justin <j_bar_j at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Any DOT 5 (Silicone) brake fluid is interchangeable. I use Mac's from
> NAPA. But never mix DOT 5 with DOT 3, 4 or 5.1 as they are incompatible.
>
> Joel...
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 27, 2023 7:20 AM
> *To:* yellowtr at adelphia.net <yellowtr at adelphia.net>; Triumphs <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid
>
> Napa carries it,  as does o'Reilly.
>
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: yellowtr at adelphia.net
> Date: 4/27/23 8:08 AM (GMT-06:00)
> To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid
>
> Hello,
>
> I need to get some dot 5 brake fluid but the brand TRF sold is no longer
> stocked.
>
> Anyone have a source for Blue Magic Dot 5? Or an alternative?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave at ranteer.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From pethier7 at gmail.com  Sat Apr 29 14:08:30 2023
From: pethier7 at gmail.com (Philip Ethier)
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2023 15:08:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFC+PCZM7_EpFPHN0TzLMEBUbGY8diqurvpQZ4Vp=gZLJg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <adb7565a-363b-13b6-1a2a-41d0f9419b44@roadrunner.com>
 <f2b4a78eb74340a9926a08fc81db9e05@ranteer.com>
 <BYAPR10MB2776196C026D12B9BC0E4052BE6A9@BYAPR10MB2776.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPK7CFC+PCZM7_EpFPHN0TzLMEBUbGY8diqurvpQZ4Vp=gZLJg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAE16_w1Ss3Boh+OqFiiNUAwgO=uwnfUKXicL=_K4UOahMsU7MQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Apr 27, 2023 at 3:32?PM Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:

> The nomenclature around DOT5 (silicone) and DOT5.1 (glycol) never made any
> sense to me...
>

The stupidest decision imaginable.  Why not DOT6? Or DOT4.1? Just
ridiculous.
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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sat Apr 29 14:48:40 2023
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard uprichard.net)
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2023 20:48:40 +0000
Subject: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <CAE16_w1Ss3Boh+OqFiiNUAwgO=uwnfUKXicL=_K4UOahMsU7MQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <adb7565a-363b-13b6-1a2a-41d0f9419b44@roadrunner.com>
 <f2b4a78eb74340a9926a08fc81db9e05@ranteer.com>
 <BYAPR10MB2776196C026D12B9BC0E4052BE6A9@BYAPR10MB2776.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPK7CFC+PCZM7_EpFPHN0TzLMEBUbGY8diqurvpQZ4Vp=gZLJg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAE16_w1Ss3Boh+OqFiiNUAwgO=uwnfUKXicL=_K4UOahMsU7MQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DS7PR07MB76553D6878CAA34FF356C964CA689@DS7PR07MB7655.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

I recently went into TWO auto parts stores looking for DOT 5.  In both cases the guy pointed me to the 5.1.  When I explained they were different, both guys (remember, this is two different shops) argued that 5.1 was the same as 5.0.

I guess the confusion is widespread.

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Philip Ethier
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2023 4:09 PM
To: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; Joel Justin <j_bar_j at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid



On Thu, Apr 27, 2023 at 3:32?PM Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com<mailto:don.hiscock at gmail.com>> wrote:
The nomenclature around DOT5 (silicone) and DOT5.1 (glycol) never made any sense to me...

The stupidest decision imaginable.  Why not DOT6? Or DOT4.1? Just ridiculous.


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From stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Sat Apr 29 16:56:30 2023
From: stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org (stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org)
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2023 16:56:30 -0600
Subject: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <CAE16_w1Ss3Boh+OqFiiNUAwgO=uwnfUKXicL=_K4UOahMsU7MQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <adb7565a-363b-13b6-1a2a-41d0f9419b44@roadrunner.com>
 <f2b4a78eb74340a9926a08fc81db9e05@ranteer.com>
 <BYAPR10MB2776196C026D12B9BC0E4052BE6A9@BYAPR10MB2776.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPK7CFC+PCZM7_EpFPHN0TzLMEBUbGY8diqurvpQZ4Vp=gZLJg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAE16_w1Ss3Boh+OqFiiNUAwgO=uwnfUKXicL=_K4UOahMsU7MQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001901d97aed$d80e3d70$882ab850$@triumphstagclub.org>

Well Phil, 

it is an engineering thing called ?minimum standards? because when hydraulicly actuated brakes were first designed, anyone would put literally any liquid from boiled horse piss to castor oil in the hydraulic system without regard to cause and effect, and that of course caused people to get injured or die or cause major property damage when the brake line failed or the fluid boiled.  So much so that the government had to step in and regulate the automotive industry and establish minimum standards.

 

DOT numbers typically reflect changes in the minimum standards.

 

When you buy fluids for a ?modern? car (mid 60?s onward), they specify the SAE standard number with its quoted release date.

It is the same for motor oil.  Most people buy their motor oil by the brand and viscosity rating like Valvoline 10W30 or Castrol 20W50, but the way people should buy their Motor oil is by the SAE specification, SAE Service range and equipment ambient temperature operating ranges as established by the vehicle manufacturer, and as stated in the owner?s manuals and TSB updates from the manufacturer. 

 

So when people argue about which brake fluid or motor oil is better, ?better? is a relative term.  Each J170x standard represents improvements in the brake fluid formulations mostly designed for higher boiling temperatures and more consistent viscosity to reduce the potential of cavitation.

 

DOT 4 was created to reduce the potential of the fluid to cavitate when passing through a rapidly stroking valve in the ABS system.

 

For an LBC, my experience is either use Castrol LMA DOT3 Crimson, or DOT5, because you do simply do not know what the seals in the system are made of and those two fluids seem to not cause seal deterioration of seals made of a wide range of rubber materials ? in my experience.  

My personal preference is DOT 5 (purple) because it does not eat my paint, I know it will not react with my seals, it has a higher boiling temperature than DOT 3, and is not hygroscopic which would cause water to pool at the system low points right at the seal to metal location and cause corrosion.

 

Let the ?fluif? arguments continue!

 

Glenn aka StagByTriumph Garage

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Philip Ethier
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2023 2:09 PM
To: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; Joel Justin <j_bar_j at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid

 

 

 

On Thu, Apr 27, 2023 at 3:32?PM Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com <mailto:don.hiscock at gmail.com> > wrote:

The nomenclature around DOT5 (silicone) and DOT5.1 (glycol) never made any sense to me...

 

The stupidest decision imaginable.  Why not DOT6? Or DOT4.1? Just ridiculous. 

 

  

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From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Apr 29 18:08:17 2023
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2023 00:08:17 +0000
Subject: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <001901d97aed$d80e3d70$882ab850$@triumphstagclub.org>
References: <adb7565a-363b-13b6-1a2a-41d0f9419b44@roadrunner.com>
 <f2b4a78eb74340a9926a08fc81db9e05@ranteer.com>
 <BYAPR10MB2776196C026D12B9BC0E4052BE6A9@BYAPR10MB2776.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPK7CFC+PCZM7_EpFPHN0TzLMEBUbGY8diqurvpQZ4Vp=gZLJg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAE16_w1Ss3Boh+OqFiiNUAwgO=uwnfUKXicL=_K4UOahMsU7MQ@mail.gmail.com>,
 <001901d97aed$d80e3d70$882ab850$@triumphstagclub.org>
Message-ID: <5c4fd7f7e9964aaeae5030568a34997e@ranteer.com>

Why is dot 5 not used in a vehicle with anti lock brakes?


-------- Original message --------
From: stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org
Date: 4/29/23 6:22 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: 'Philip Ethier' <pethier7 at gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid

Well Phil,
it is an engineering thing called ?minimum standards? because when hydraulicly actuated brakes were first designed, anyone would put literally any liquid from boiled horse piss to castor oil in the hydraulic system without regard to cause and effect, and that of course caused people to get injured or die or cause major property damage when the brake line failed or the fluid boiled.  So much so that the government had to step in and regulate the automotive industry and establish minimum standards.

DOT numbers typically reflect changes in the minimum standards.

When you buy fluids for a ?modern? car (mid 60?s onward), they specify the SAE standard number with its quoted release date.
It is the same for motor oil.  Most people buy their motor oil by the brand and viscosity rating like Valvoline 10W30 or Castrol 20W50, but the way people should buy their Motor oil is by the SAE specification, SAE Service range and equipment ambient temperature operating ranges as established by the vehicle manufacturer, and as stated in the owner?s manuals and TSB updates from the manufacturer.

So when people argue about which brake fluid or motor oil is better, ?better? is a relative term.  Each J170x standard represents improvements in the brake fluid formulations mostly designed for higher boiling temperatures and more consistent viscosity to reduce the potential of cavitation.

DOT 4 was created to reduce the potential of the fluid to cavitate when passing through a rapidly stroking valve in the ABS system.

For an LBC, my experience is either use Castrol LMA DOT3 Crimson, or DOT5, because you do simply do not know what the seals in the system are made of and those two fluids seem to not cause seal deterioration of seals made of a wide range of rubber materials ? in my experience.
My personal preference is DOT 5 (purple) because it does not eat my paint, I know it will not react with my seals, it has a higher boiling temperature than DOT 3, and is not hygroscopic which would cause water to pool at the system low points right at the seal to metal location and cause corrosion.

Let the ?fluif? arguments continue!

Glenn aka StagByTriumph Garage

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Philip Ethier
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2023 2:09 PM
To: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; Joel Justin <j_bar_j at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid



On Thu, Apr 27, 2023 at 3:32?PM Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com<mailto:don.hiscock at gmail.com>> wrote:
The nomenclature around DOT5 (silicone) and DOT5.1 (glycol) never made any sense to me...

The stupidest decision imaginable.  Why not DOT6? Or DOT4.1? Just ridiculous.


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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Sat Apr 29 17:28:04 2023
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (Notakitcar)
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2023 18:28:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR07MB76553D6878CAA34FF356C964CA689@DS7PR07MB7655.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <adb7565a-363b-13b6-1a2a-41d0f9419b44@roadrunner.com>
 <f2b4a78eb74340a9926a08fc81db9e05@ranteer.com>
 <BYAPR10MB2776196C026D12B9BC0E4052BE6A9@BYAPR10MB2776.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAPK7CFC+PCZM7_EpFPHN0TzLMEBUbGY8diqurvpQZ4Vp=gZLJg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAE16_w1Ss3Boh+OqFiiNUAwgO=uwnfUKXicL=_K4UOahMsU7MQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR07MB76553D6878CAA34FF356C964CA689@DS7PR07MB7655.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <000001d97af2$40457b70$c0d07250$@yahoo.com>

Must be the same guys that when I asked for 3? for ?? fuel line needed to know what model/year car it was for.

B

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of auprichard uprichard.net
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2023 3:49 PM
To: Philip Ethier <pethier7 at gmail.com>; Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; Joel Justin <j_bar_j at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid

 

I recently went into TWO auto parts stores looking for DOT 5.  In both cases the guy pointed me to the 5.1.  When I explained they were different, both guys (remember, this is two different shops) argued that 5.1 was the same as 5.0.

 

I guess the confusion is widespread.

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Philip Ethier
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2023 4:09 PM
To: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com <mailto:don.hiscock at gmail.com> >
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> ; Joel Justin <j_bar_j at hotmail.com <mailto:j_bar_j at hotmail.com> >
Subject: Re: [TR] Dot 5 brake fluid

 

 

 

On Thu, Apr 27, 2023 at 3:32?PM Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com <mailto:don.hiscock at gmail.com> > wrote:

The nomenclature around DOT5 (silicone) and DOT5.1 (glycol) never made any sense to me...

 

The stupidest decision imaginable.  Why not DOT6? Or DOT4.1? Just ridiculous. 

 

  

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From baltoalpine at gmail.com  Sun Apr 30 13:32:05 2023
From: baltoalpine at gmail.com (baltoalpine at gmail.com)
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2023 15:32:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] DOT 5 Brake Fluid
Message-ID: <16ca01d97b9a$7f3378c0$7d9a6a40$@gmail.com>

I use DOT 5 in all of my LBC's for the same reasons Glenn gave.  

I know some folks complain that it can be hard to bleed the brakes with DOT
5 though. This is because while it isn't hygroscopic, it does collect air.
A friend showed me a jar of new from the bottle DOT 5. He put it in a glass
bell jar and pulled a vacuum on it. We watched it look like it was boiling
as the air came out of suspension.  If you don't have that kind of equipment
(I don't) just treat the DOT 5 containers gently, and pour slowly into the
master cylinder.

Joe McConlogue
'57 TR3, awaiting new rear seal
'74 Spit, awaiting engine overhaul
'56 MGA, in late stage restoration
'67 Alpine, laid up for a water pump


From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Apr 30 16:16:41 2023
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2023 22:16:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] DOT 5 Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <16ca01d97b9a$7f3378c0$7d9a6a40$@gmail.com>
References: <16ca01d97b9a$7f3378c0$7d9a6a40$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2067607729.977724.1682893001281@mail.yahoo.com>

 While it is true that DOT5 entraps air easily it also will give it up fairly quickly.? They use it in vacuum pumps for that reason.? The trick I use is I will top up the reservoir and wait before I bleed.? A day if I can.? This allows any air to percolate out before it gets into the closed system.
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: baltoalpine at gmail.com
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, Apr 30, 2023 2:32 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] DOT 5 Brake Fluid

I use DOT 5 in all of my LBC's for the same reasons Glenn gave.? 

I know some folks complain that it can be hard to bleed the brakes with DOT
5 though. This is because while it isn't hygroscopic, it does collect air.
A friend showed me a jar of new from the bottle DOT 5. He put it in a glass
bell jar and pulled a vacuum on it. We watched it look like it was boiling
as the air came out of suspension.? If you don't have that kind of equipment
(I don't) just treat the DOT 5 containers gently, and pour slowly into the
master cylinder.

Joe McConlogue
'57 TR3, awaiting new rear seal
'74 Spit, awaiting engine overhaul
'56 MGA, in late stage restoration
'67 Alpine, laid up for a water pump

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