From billbrewer59 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  1 19:23:07 2022
From: billbrewer59 at yahoo.com (Bill Brewer)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2022 18:23:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 in "The Wonder Years"
References: <023a01d88db2$49d105c0$dd731140$.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <023a01d88db2$49d105c0$dd731140$@yahoo.com>

     There was a TR3 in an episode of "The Wonder Years". I had a copy of
that episode on VHS tape, but no longer have a way to play it. It is
probably streaming somewhere now. Can someone tell me which episode it was?

     TIA,

 

     -Bill Brewer

     Morro Bay, CA

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From fishplate at gmail.com  Sat Jul  2 03:51:04 2022
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2022 05:51:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 in "The Wonder Years"
In-Reply-To: <023a01d88db2$49d105c0$dd731140$@yahoo.com>
References: <023a01d88db2$49d105c0$dd731140$.ref@yahoo.com>
 <023a01d88db2$49d105c0$dd731140$@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7COzdwEx+Dj=MjFB+zGkm3z3Bg5eH0dWWFyQndELquUZ-Q@mail.gmail.com>

The Internet Movie Car Database is the perfect resource for this:

https://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_914642-Triumph-TR3A-1958.html

On Fri, Jul 1, 2022, 21:37 Bill Brewer <billbrewer59 at yahoo.com> wrote:

>      There was a TR3 in an episode of ?The Wonder Years?. I had a copy of
> that episode on VHS tape, but no longer have a way to play it. It is
> probably streaming somewhere now. Can someone tell me which episode it was?
>
>      TIA,
>
>
>
>      -Bill Brewer
>
>      Morro Bay, CA
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com
>
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From anncarletta at yahoo.com  Sat Jul  2 14:29:06 2022
From: anncarletta at yahoo.com (Ann Carletta)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2022 20:29:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 in "The Wonder Years" (Jeff Scarbrough)
References: <1201775264.759471.1656793746761.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1201775264.759471.1656793746761@mail.yahoo.com>

Went to the IMDB link and found my car from working on a few projects!??
Triumph TR3A in "Life on Mars"


| 
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Triumph TR3A in "Life on Mars"


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Triumph TR3A in "Pan Am"


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Triumph TR3A in "Pan Am"


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From erkanhassan at yahoo.com  Mon Jul  4 12:35:08 2022
From: erkanhassan at yahoo.com (Erkan Hassan)
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2022 14:35:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr3b suspension
References: <48A3B534-C939-47D5-AF29-89A55146A15C.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <48A3B534-C939-47D5-AF29-89A55146A15C@yahoo.com>

Hi all,

I successfully removed the leaf spring from my 1962 TR3B.
Cleaned things up, replaced fluid in shock absorber.
The new spring had a little more curvature than the old spring (in image).

Today went to put the brand new TRF spring into the car. Reattached to shock absorber and new U bolts.
Aligned the fulcrum bolt (although did not insert).
The problem is the rear end of the spring does not align with the shackle eye on the frame?see last image

Help?any ideas?am I doing anything wrong
Thanks
Erkan
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Sent from my iPad

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Tue Jul  5 04:30:22 2022
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2022 10:30:22 +0000
Subject: [TR] Tr3b suspension
In-Reply-To: <48A3B534-C939-47D5-AF29-89A55146A15C@yahoo.com>
References: <48A3B534-C939-47D5-AF29-89A55146A15C.ref@yahoo.com>
 <48A3B534-C939-47D5-AF29-89A55146A15C@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BL3PR10MB621120A8B2A6EC6250F8E48BB9819@BL3PR10MB6211.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Erkan

With new springs you typically have to use clamps to position everything it is not a simple bolt in procedure.

I would loosen or completely remove the u-bolts holding the differential to the springs.

I don?t remember the exact steps but I believe I would attach the spring front and rear mounts first, then take a large clamp and bring the spring up to the differential to attach the u-bolts to complete.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 4, 2022, at 4:54 PM, Erkan Hassan <erkanhassan at yahoo.com> wrote:

?
Hi all,

I successfully removed the leaf spring from my 1962 TR3B.
Cleaned things up, replaced fluid in shock absorber.
The new spring had a little more curvature than the old spring (in image).

Today went to put the brand new TRF spring into the car. Reattached to shock absorber and new U bolts.
Aligned the fulcrum bolt (although did not insert).
The problem is the rear end of the spring does not align with the shackle eye on the frame?see last image

Help?any ideas?am I doing anything wrong
Thanks
Erkan
[image0.jpeg]
[image1.jpeg]
[image2.jpeg]
[image3.jpeg]


Sent from my iPad
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From erkanhassan at yahoo.com  Tue Jul  5 11:35:32 2022
From: erkanhassan at yahoo.com (Erkan Hassan)
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2022 17:35:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Tr3b suspension
In-Reply-To: <BL3PR10MB621120A8B2A6EC6250F8E48BB9819@BL3PR10MB6211.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <48A3B534-C939-47D5-AF29-89A55146A15C.ref@yahoo.com>
 <48A3B534-C939-47D5-AF29-89A55146A15C@yahoo.com>
 <BL3PR10MB621120A8B2A6EC6250F8E48BB9819@BL3PR10MB6211.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <2036231882.1275657.1657042532832@mail.yahoo.com>

 Thanks Randy,
Last night that is what I did and it worked.
I attached the rear shackle first then was able to get the front pin in...mostly.From there I jacked up the spring to the axle and attached the U bolts.
Buttoned everything up and now it is time for the other side!.
I tried the way the manual says first and that's when I ran into trouble...I don't know why it is so wrong...probably it is replacing the old springs rather than installing new ones after 60 years.
Thanks for your helpErkan
    On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 06:30:25 AM EDT, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville at hotmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Erkan?
With new springs you typically have to use clamps to position everything it is not a simple bolt in procedure.
I would loosen or completely remove the u-bolts holding the differential to the springs.
I don?t remember the exact steps but I believe I would attach the spring front and rear mounts first, then take a large clamp and bring the spring up to the differential to attach the u-bolts to complete.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 4, 2022, at 4:54 PM, Erkan Hassan <erkanhassan at yahoo.com> wrote:



?Hi all,

I successfully removed the leaf spring from my 1962 TR3B.
Cleaned things up, replaced fluid in shock absorber.
The new spring had a little more curvature than the old spring (in image).

Today went to put the brand new TRF spring into the car. Reattached to shock absorber and new U bolts.
Aligned the fulcrum bolt (although did not insert).
The problem is the rear end of the spring does not align with the shackle eye on the frame?see last image

Help?any ideas?am I doing anything wrong
Thanks
Erkan

Sent from my iPad** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs?http://www.team.net/archive

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From billbrewer59 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul  7 10:00:18 2022
From: billbrewer59 at yahoo.com (William Brewer)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2022 09:00:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Door Aluminum Kick Panels
References: <a4d60d68-9fd7-0b13-a932-e506307809e4.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a4d60d68-9fd7-0b13-a932-e506307809e4@yahoo.com>

 ???? There is a TR3 for sale on Bringatrailer that shows aluminum kick 
panel on the doors. ISTR seeing them in the 90's somewhere, but don't 
see them anywhere now. Does anyone know where you can find them?

1960 Triumph TR3A for sale on BaT Auctions - ending July 12 (Lot 
#78,506) | Bring a Trailer 
<https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1960-triumph-tr3a-32/>

 ???? Photo 47 & 48 shows the kick panels. They might have made them 
themselves.

 ???? -Bill Brewer

 ???? Morro Bay, CA
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Fri Jul  8 11:03:38 2022
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2022 13:03:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] Voltage Stabilizers
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwggcp0jYAF5Hm6uJViv67VSu_r0KWyi-X802E=CJ2PUfA@mail.gmail.com>

Hey all ~

Is it possible to test a voltage stabilizer to see if it's in good working
order
if it is not mounted in a car, just a "loose" stabilizer? This would be
either
the TRF 1488796 or Moss 133-555 (negative earth).

Thanks!

Dave
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Fri Jul  8 11:59:16 2022
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2022 13:59:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] [NET] Voltage Stabilizers
In-Reply-To: <CAHPM-cwkKwXjd3+2vk49XAzwiEn=TBWsGxtHu3sbMS7HDM42sA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwggcp0jYAF5Hm6uJViv67VSu_r0KWyi-X802E=CJ2PUfA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAHPM-cwkKwXjd3+2vk49XAzwiEn=TBWsGxtHu3sbMS7HDM42sA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwhvo8qBDB3KyV_FmHn7y05MaiP7XDSs20a7Ny5+Xpn9Ag@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks, Pete. I have now connected the stabilizer as you suggested and on
an applied input
voltage of 12.61 volts, the stabilizer reads 4.25 volts on output. Time for
another stabilizer?

Dave

On Fri, Jul 8, 2022 at 1:46 PM Pete Groudas <petegroudas at gmail.com> wrote:

> Yes, you just need to connect it to a 12v battery or better still, an
> adjustable powersupply, so you can range the input from 11v to 14.5.
>
> You should read 10v on the output. If you have a 1k resistor, it would
> help simulate a load.
>
> The moss solidstate ones dont seem to last long. I have had to rebuild 3
> of them over theblast 4 years.
>
> On Fri, Jul 8, 2022, 1:05 PM David Friedlander via NET <
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:
>
>> Hey all ~
>>
>> Is it possible to test a voltage stabilizer to see if it's in good
>> working order
>> if it is not mounted in a car, just a "loose" stabilizer? This would be
>> either
>> the TRF 1488796 or Moss 133-555 (negative earth).
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Dave
>> _______________________________________________
>> NET mailing list
>> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
>> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>>
>
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From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Jul  8 12:49:57 2022
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2022 18:49:57 +0000
Subject: [TR] battery and charging system
Message-ID: <a94b5ea20224450ca48b12b4a73d128e@ranteer.com>

If the battery reads 11.33 v whether the car is running or not, that means either the battery or the charging system is bad, right?


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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Fri Jul  8 13:46:06 2022
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Robert Rochlin)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2022 15:46:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] [NET] Voltage Stabilizers
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwhvo8qBDB3KyV_FmHn7y05MaiP7XDSs20a7Ny5+Xpn9Ag@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwhvo8qBDB3KyV_FmHn7y05MaiP7XDSs20a7Ny5+Xpn9Ag@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B21ECE94-89DA-4E09-A1D8-1B2815742FCB@comcast.net>

Hi Guys,
  I tried the solid state voltage stabilizers and have found them prone to failure.  Luckily I held on to the old reed stabilizers the solid state voltage stabilizers were to have replaced and have had no issues with the reinstalled 50+ year originals.  YRMV?
Bob
72 TR6
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 8, 2022, at 2:30 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Thanks, Pete. I have now connected the stabilizer as you suggested and on an applied input 
> voltage of 12.61 volts, the stabilizer reads 4.25 volts on output. Time for another stabilizer?
> 
> Dave
> 
>> On Fri, Jul 8, 2022 at 1:46 PM Pete Groudas <petegroudas at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Yes, you just need to connect it to a 12v battery or better still, an adjustable powersupply, so you can range the input from 11v to 14.5.
>> 
>> You should read 10v on the output. If you have a 1k resistor, it would help simulate a load.
>> 
>> The moss solidstate ones dont seem to last long. I have had to rebuild 3 of them over theblast 4 years. 
>> 
>>> On Fri, Jul 8, 2022, 1:05 PM David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:
>>> Hey all ~
>>> 
>>> Is it possible to test a voltage stabilizer to see if it's in good working order
>>> if it is not mounted in a car, just a "loose" stabilizer? This would be either 
>>> the TRF 1488796 or Moss 133-555 (negative earth).
>>> 
>>> Thanks!
>>> 
>>> Dave
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> NET mailing list
>>> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
>>> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rrochlin at comcast.net
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Jul  8 14:46:48 2022
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2022 20:46:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] battery and charging system
In-Reply-To: <a94b5ea20224450ca48b12b4a73d128e@ranteer.com>
References: <a94b5ea20224450ca48b12b4a73d128e@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <2061586941.3885785.1657313208230@mail.yahoo.com>

 Your alternator is not charging.? Even a bad battery will respond to a charging current.? For example, if you have a shorted cell it will read around 10.5 volts with the engin off but will read closer to 12.5 when being charged.
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2022 1:49 pm
Subject: [TR] battery and charging system

 <!--#yiv5233273517 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv5233273517 #yiv5233273517 p.yiv5233273517MsoNormal, #yiv5233273517 li.yiv5233273517MsoNormal, #yiv5233273517 div.yiv5233273517MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv5233273517 span.yiv5233273517EmailStyle18 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv5233273517 .yiv5233273517MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv5233273517 div.yiv5233273517WordSection1 {}-->If the battery reads 11.33 v whether the car is running or not, that means either the battery or the charging system is bad, right?  ? 

 ? 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From hdrider570 at att.net  Fri Jul  8 15:32:10 2022
From: hdrider570 at att.net (Edward Hamer)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2022 21:32:10 +0000
Subject: [TR] Voltage stabilizer
References: <SJ0PR14MB5274B582965638DAAE5152DDAC829.ref@SJ0PR14MB5274.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <SJ0PR14MB5274B582965638DAAE5152DDAC829@SJ0PR14MB5274.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>

Voltage stabilizers need to be screwed down so make the ground connection.  I like to use a star washer between the mounting tab and the car body.

Edward Hamer
Sent from my T-Mobile 5G Device
Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
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From stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Fri Jul  8 15:33:34 2022
From: stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org (stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2022 15:33:34 -0600
Subject: [TR] battery and charging system
In-Reply-To: <a94b5ea20224450ca48b12b4a73d128e@ranteer.com>
References: <a94b5ea20224450ca48b12b4a73d128e@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <000d01d89312$61d71690$258543b0$@triumphstagclub.org>

With the engine ON and running over 1200RPM, you should have ~ 13.8 to 14.8 Volts Direct Current (VDC) reading on your meter across the battery terminals.

 

With the engine OFF,  a good battery will read ~12.6 VDC

 

Check and fill the electrolyte level of you have removeable caps, then put the battery on an overnight charge, get it to ~12.5 VDC, then try again.  Most alternators are not rated to charge a dead or dying battery and sometimes you will toast the regulator if it is trying to charge a low or dead battery.

 

Could be the alternator itself or alternator regulator.

 

Newer cars ? some ? will drop the charging if the battery load exceeds the rating of the alternator, others will just attempt to supply whatever the current load is until they burn out something.  My Jaguar tells me both if the battery is low on start or if the charging system is not working after starting, the miracle of technology.

 

Cheers!

 

Glenn aka StagByTriumph

 

Subject: [TR] battery and charging system

 

If the battery reads 11.33 v whether the car is running or not, that means either the battery or the charging system is bad, right?

 

 

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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Fri Jul  8 15:42:51 2022
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2022 17:42:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] battery and charging system
In-Reply-To: <a94b5ea20224450ca48b12b4a73d128e@ranteer.com>
References: <a94b5ea20224450ca48b12b4a73d128e@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <C7D95CCC-8FF1-414D-B863-C3842BE23AF3@gmail.com>

In my opinion yes.  Check it with car not running after a good charge.  Check it with car running. Should increase over 13 when charging from alternator.  You are trying to determine if battery is bad or alternator.  I?d put it on a trickle charge or regular charge and see if you get above 12 after the charge. If not it?s probably bad.   Auto parts store can hook up there machine to it and tell you too
Jim Henningsen 

> On Jul 8, 2022, at 4:33 PM, dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> If the battery reads 11.33 v whether the car is running or not, that means either the battery or the charging system is bad, right?
>  
>  
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com
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From spamiam at comcast.net  Fri Jul  8 15:53:37 2022
From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2022 17:53:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Voltage Stabilizers
Message-ID: <D62F5D77-5FB2-480A-BD4B-C4BD6229F68A@comcast.net>

?Probably it is broken

Time for a new one.   We discussed this recently and devised a decent improved design.  Perhaps someone made one and made an extra one too.  (The added cost is low)

These commercial units are insufficiently protected and don?t even have the specifically recommended filtering.  

I made one many years ago and used the device specifications re: filter capacitors.  And I avoided aluminum electrolytics because these have a limited lifetime especially around heat.  But I don?t have any spares any more. 

-Tony



Sent from my 1837 Babbage Analytical Engine

> On Jul 8, 2022, at 3:13 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2022 13:59:16 -0400
> From: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> To: Pete Groudas <petegroudas at gmail.com>
> Cc: New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>, TR3 Triumphs
>    <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] [NET] Voltage Stabilizers
> Message-ID:
>    <CAJ1eQwhvo8qBDB3KyV_FmHn7y05MaiP7XDSs20a7Ny5+Xpn9Ag at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Thanks, Pete. I have now connected the stabilizer as you suggested and on
> an applied input
> voltage of 12.61 volts, the stabilizer reads 4.25 volts on output. Time for
> another stabilizer?


From forzion7 at gmail.com  Fri Jul  8 15:58:06 2022
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2022 17:58:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] [NET] Voltage Stabilizers
In-Reply-To: <LV2PR01MB76463C614DF643989D6FF6F9B6829@LV2PR01MB7646.prod.exchangelabs.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwggcp0jYAF5Hm6uJViv67VSu_r0KWyi-X802E=CJ2PUfA@mail.gmail.com>
 <LV2PR01MB76463C614DF643989D6FF6F9B6829@LV2PR01MB7646.prod.exchangelabs.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwiMPamZKxFfip9STY10F2BKZtT6drjAyvbpH+4GHpz+Ww@mail.gmail.com>

I see. Problem is, as you know, Bob, the "original" type is, for
whatever reason, NLA.
So, solid state is all that's available. Those who have rebuilt their own
voltage stabilizers
likely know the necessary diode number to solder-in to the circuit.  Until
someone
develops a better idea/fix, we're forced to use whatever is available from
the usual
sources, at about $20/a pop.

I was just looking for a reliable way, if possible, to test a solid state
voltage stabilizer
that is not yet part of an instrument circuit....

Thanks!!

Davw

On Fri, Jul 8, 2022 at 5:14 PM Robert M Lang <blang at mit.edu> wrote:

> You can't really check them with a digital multimeter because the voltage
> on the original VS goes up and down so that it averages the proper amount,
> which should be something like 10 vdc. The modern ones use a solid state
> circuit to provide the voltage, not sure how you might "read" one of them.
> That said, am old fashioned multi meter (with an indicator needle) would
> probably work with the original-style VS. A test light would also be okay
> for testing, the inlet should be "brighter" because it's a higher voltage
> than the output... but a test light would be a good way to test, if you
> have a test light.
>
> Regards,
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang
>                           Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* NET <net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org> on behalf of David
> Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Sent:* Friday, July 8, 2022 1:03 PM
> *To:* New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>; TR3 Triumphs <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [NET] Voltage Stabilizers
>
> Hey all ~
>
> Is it possible to test a voltage stabilizer to see if it's in good working
> order
> if it is not mounted in a car, just a "loose" stabilizer? This would be
> either
> the TRF 1488796 or Moss 133-555 (negative earth).
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dave
>
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Fri Jul  8 17:19:05 2022
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2022 19:19:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Voltage stabilizer
In-Reply-To: <SJ0PR14MB5274B582965638DAAE5152DDAC829@SJ0PR14MB5274.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
References: <SJ0PR14MB5274B582965638DAAE5152DDAC829.ref@SJ0PR14MB5274.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
 <SJ0PR14MB5274B582965638DAAE5152DDAC829@SJ0PR14MB5274.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwj0DNWFy9VsPcbe32sTQ0azCh50HZv9n6e5qTPabdfmqg@mail.gmail.com>

Ed;

I believe the B post on the stabilizer is for the ground wire. A test lead
can easily be connected to it and grounded without the need to screw it
down.

Dave

On Fri, Jul 8, 2022 at 6:34 PM Edward Hamer <hdrider570 at att.net> wrote:

> Voltage stabilizers need to be screwed down so make the ground
> connection.  I like to use a star washer between the mounting tab and the
> car body.
>
> Edward Hamer
> Sent from my T-Mobile 5G Device
> Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  8 17:24:14 2022
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2022 18:24:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] battery and charging system
In-Reply-To: <000d01d89312$61d71690$258543b0$@triumphstagclub.org>
References: <000d01d89312$61d71690$258543b0$@triumphstagclub.org>
Message-ID: <CE28AE47-9008-4C2E-83BB-2F076458CCE7@yahoo.com>

 All the good points that Glenn made.  Also, bit elementary, but re-check all your cables/wire connections  to be clean and tight.  

Bill
TS30800L


?Do your best, and let the sparrows twitter?  Lofty

On Jul 8, 2022, at 5:58 PM, stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org wrote:

?
With the engine ON and running over 1200RPM, you should have ~ 13.8 to 14.8 Volts Direct Current (VDC) reading on your meter across the battery terminals.
 
With the engine OFF,  a good battery will read ~12.6 VDC
 
Check and fill the electrolyte level of you have removeable caps, then put the battery on an overnight charge, get it to ~12.5 VDC, then try again.  Most alternators are not rated to charge a dead or dying battery and sometimes you will toast the regulator if it is trying to charge a low or dead battery.
 
Could be the alternator itself or alternator regulator.
 
Newer cars ? some ? will drop the charging if the battery load exceeds the rating of the alternator, others will just attempt to supply whatever the current load is until they burn out something.  My Jaguar tells me both if the battery is low on start or if the charging system is not working after starting, the miracle of technology.
 
Cheers!
 
Glenn aka StagByTriumph
 
Subject: [TR] battery and charging system
 
If the battery reads 11.33 v whether the car is running or not, that means either the battery or the charging system is bad, right?
 
 
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com
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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri Jul  8 18:59:35 2022
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard uprichard.net)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2022 00:59:35 +0000
Subject: [TR] [NET] Voltage Stabilizers
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwiMPamZKxFfip9STY10F2BKZtT6drjAyvbpH+4GHpz+Ww@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwggcp0jYAF5Hm6uJViv67VSu_r0KWyi-X802E=CJ2PUfA@mail.gmail.com>
 <LV2PR01MB76463C614DF643989D6FF6F9B6829@LV2PR01MB7646.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <CAJ1eQwiMPamZKxFfip9STY10F2BKZtT6drjAyvbpH+4GHpz+Ww@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DS7PR07MB76554FC36419843F0CF9477BCA859@DS7PR07MB7655.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Dave:  I am sure someone on this list will have an original they can sell you.  After two failures, I sourced one from Marg Gruber in Alabama.

Andrew

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Friday, July 8, 2022 5:58 PM
To: Robert M Lang <blang at mit.edu>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>; TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] [NET] Voltage Stabilizers

I see. Problem is, as you know, Bob, the "original" type is, for whatever reason, NLA.
So, solid state is all that's available. Those who have rebuilt their own voltage stabilizers
likely know the necessary diode number to solder-in to the circuit.  Until someone
develops a better idea/fix, we're forced to use whatever is available from the usual
sources, at about $20/a pop.

I was just looking for a reliable way, if possible, to test a solid state voltage stabilizer
that is not yet part of an instrument circuit....

Thanks!!

Davw

On Fri, Jul 8, 2022 at 5:14 PM Robert M Lang <blang at mit.edu<mailto:blang at mit.edu>> wrote:
You can't really check them with a digital multimeter because the voltage on the original VS goes up and down so that it averages the proper amount, which should be something like 10 vdc. The modern ones use a solid state circuit to provide the voltage, not sure how you might "read" one of them. That said, am old fashioned multi meter (with an indicator needle) would probably work with the original-style VS. A test light would also be okay for testing, the inlet should be "brighter" because it's a higher voltage than the output... but a test light would be a good way to test, if you have a test light.

Regards,

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang
                          Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________
From: NET <net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org>> on behalf of David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>
Sent: Friday, July 8, 2022 1:03 PM
To: New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>; TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
Subject: [NET] Voltage Stabilizers

Hey all ~

Is it possible to test a voltage stabilizer to see if it's in good working order
if it is not mounted in a car, just a "loose" stabilizer? This would be either
the TRF 1488796 or Moss 133-555 (negative earth).

Thanks!

Dave
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From dconnitt at fuse.net  Fri Jul  8 20:31:14 2022
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2022 22:31:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] Voltage stabilizer
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwj0DNWFy9VsPcbe32sTQ0azCh50HZv9n6e5qTPabdfmqg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwj0DNWFy9VsPcbe32sTQ0azCh50HZv9n6e5qTPabdfmqg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FB5D7F93-50EB-4706-ADB4-51123E03B064@fuse.net>

The B post is the battery input. I just finished a updated version based on the TI LM2940T low dropout 10 volt regulator. I bought 50 printed circuits. Anybody interested in one?
Dave Connitt

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 8, 2022, at 10:15 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Ed;
> 
> I believe the B post on the stabilizer is for the ground wire. A test lead can easily be connected to it and grounded without the need to screw it down.
> 
> Dave
> 
>> On Fri, Jul 8, 2022 at 6:34 PM Edward Hamer <hdrider570 at att.net> wrote:
>> Voltage stabilizers need to be screwed down so make the ground connection.  I like to use a star washer between the mounting tab and the car body.
>> 
>> Edward Hamer
>> Sent from my T-Mobile 5G Device
>> Get Outlook for Android
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sat Jul  9 05:38:48 2022
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2022 07:38:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Analog voltage stsbilizer
Message-ID: <D0C9031D-D48D-44F8-98E5-E226BDB1B5F1@fuse.net>


Hi all ,
Just to clarify my earlier email I am proposing to sell a completed and tested analog voltage stabilizer  on an exchange basis for $20.00 plus shipping. I am just about done with field testing my stabilizer and should be good to go around early August.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
Sent from my iPhone

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Jul  9 06:18:50 2022
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2022 12:18:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Voltage stabilizer
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwj0DNWFy9VsPcbe32sTQ0azCh50HZv9n6e5qTPabdfmqg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SJ0PR14MB5274B582965638DAAE5152DDAC829.ref@SJ0PR14MB5274.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
 <SJ0PR14MB5274B582965638DAAE5152DDAC829@SJ0PR14MB5274.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJ1eQwj0DNWFy9VsPcbe32sTQ0azCh50HZv9n6e5qTPabdfmqg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2087752591.3406696.1657369130721@mail.yahoo.com>

 These parts need three connections.? One is battery in, another is the 10V out and the third is chassis (ground).? If your stabilizer has only two (like the OE parts) the third, ground connection is chassis and must be attached to a metal part of the car.? I am not familiar with the new solid state versions but the one I saw many years ago was packaged in an OE metal can and was the same way.? If the current offering has three connections one of those will be the ground connection.? 
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
To: Edward Hamer <hdrider570 at att.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2022 6:19 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Voltage stabilizer

Ed;
I believe the B post on the stabilizer is for the ground wire. A test lead can easily be connected to it and grounded without the need to screw it down.
Dave
On Fri, Jul 8, 2022 at 6:34 PM Edward Hamer <hdrider570 at att.net> wrote:

Voltage stabilizers need to be screwed down so make the ground connection.? I like to use a star washer between the mounting tab and the car body.
Edward HamerSent from my T-Mobile 5G Device
Get Outlook for Android** triumphs at autox.team.net **
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Jul  9 06:39:57 2022
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2022 12:39:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Analog voltage stsbilizer
In-Reply-To: <D0C9031D-D48D-44F8-98E5-E226BDB1B5F1@fuse.net>
References: <D0C9031D-D48D-44F8-98E5-E226BDB1B5F1@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <1851629808.2965927.1657370397804@mail.yahoo.com>

 You know, Moss and/or TRF should pick up a small inventory of those.? I suppose the exchange basis is because you are reusing the original metal can.? Have you considered an alternative enclosure.? A 3D printed plastic one would require a third wire for ground but for those who are not strict concours types should have no problems with that.
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jul 9, 2022 6:38 am
Subject: [TR] Analog voltage stsbilizer


Hi all ,
Just to clarify my earlier email I am proposing to sell a completed and tested analog voltage stabilizer? on an exchange basis for $20.00 plus shipping. I am just about done with field testing my stabilizer and should be good to go around early August.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
Sent from my iPhone
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Jul 11 16:32:28 2022
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2022 22:32:28 +0000
Subject: [TR] early TR4
Message-ID: <106999dad8ee4bedb840458a494ed63f@ranteer.com>

Was built in 62; registered as a 63, TR4.

Where is the blinker module?
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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Jul 11 16:51:16 2022
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2022 18:51:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] early TR4
In-Reply-To: <106999dad8ee4bedb840458a494ed63f@ranteer.com>
References: <106999dad8ee4bedb840458a494ed63f@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <100819e0-0afa-4d98-bc93-492a6f593271@adelphia.net>

Dave,

The flasher is in the drivers wheel well just above the high beam foot 
switch. This is on a white dash 63.

Bob

On 7/11/22 6:32 PM, dave northrup wrote:
>
> Was built in 62; registered as a 63, TR4.
>
> Where is the blinker module?
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net
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From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Jul 11 17:07:02 2022
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2022 23:07:02 +0000
Subject: [TR] early TR4
In-Reply-To: <100819e0-0afa-4d98-bc93-492a6f593271@adelphia.net>
References: <106999dad8ee4bedb840458a494ed63f@ranteer.com>,
 <100819e0-0afa-4d98-bc93-492a6f593271@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <bace0ba393e941a2ac96103b7bbcf71d@ranteer.com>

Thank you!


-------- Original message --------
From: Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
Date: 7/11/22 5:51 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>, triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] early TR4


Dave,

The flasher is in the drivers wheel well just above the high beam foot switch. This is on a white dash 63.

Bob

On 7/11/22 6:32 PM, dave northrup wrote:
Was built in 62; registered as a 63, TR4.

Where is the blinker module?



** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 11 17:09:35 2022
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2022 18:09:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] early TR4
In-Reply-To: <106999dad8ee4bedb840458a494ed63f@ranteer.com>
References: <106999dad8ee4bedb840458a494ed63f@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <BE3FEAA4-EFDF-400F-BECC-D65328931AC2@yahoo.com>

My response is to just follow the wires. I would have thought it would be the same as a TR3. 

?Do your best, and let the sparrows twitter?  Lofty

On Jul 11, 2022, at 5:43 PM, dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

?
Was built in 62; registered as a 63, TR4.
 
Where is the blinker module?
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From harrymague at aol.com  Tue Jul 12 18:50:11 2022
From: harrymague at aol.com (Kim)
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2022 00:50:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Rebuilding TR6 Rack and Pinion
References: <1098129432.775663.1657673411792.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1098129432.775663.1657673411792@mail.yahoo.com>

After several years of using a quick ratio rack and pinion steering I decided to replace it with the original rack and pinion.? Before trying to install it, I wanted to disassemble it to clean the 40 year old grease.? Disassemble went easy.? The several nuts that are torqued to 80ft/lbs were not easy to break down, but manageable.? The grease inside was caked and semi solid.? Glad I opened the rack up.? I kept track of the shims.? The rack was solid so I planed to assemble with the same number of shims.? Assembly was going ok until installing the pinion.? Following the instructions in Triumph maintenance manual and Hanes, I installed the pinion checking the end-float.? Everything seemed good.? Then you put the rubber seal on.? Doing that I cannot get the circlip to install.? I looked back at the parts I had when I took it apart and it never had a rubber seal.? Both manuals talk about putting the seal in.? It is obvious to me that I can't get the rubber "o" ring seal in and get the circlip to engage.? Has anyone had this problem?? If you disassembled your rack and pinion, was there a rubber seal in it?? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.? Harry
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From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Jul 15 11:01:48 2022
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2022 17:01:48 +0000
Subject: [TR] blinker module 63 TR4
Message-ID: <d76c698b21e547d1a562945519b59214@ranteer.com>

The blinker module on this car is likely not original.

It has 3 tabs, labeled L, P, X

I think its bad; seemed hot when I pulled it out after testing the blinkers.

How do I test it?
-------------- next part --------------
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From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Fri Jul 15 13:14:08 2022
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler)
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2022 15:14:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 15, Issue 104
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1657908002.29468.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1657908002.29468.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAMHq6Zy1wUsjcPZMnN8r980mwcN6iF_s5ioWZr_ieCBQcY=TFQ@mail.gmail.com>

Sorry if this has been answered, but I'm on the digest.  The green wire (X)
should show battery voltage t if the key is on.  The Green/Brown wire (L)
should  also show battery voltage if you don't have the turn signal on and
then open and close when you activate the turn signal switch in either
direction.  The Light Green/Purple wire (P) goes to the dash lamp and
should do the same as the Green/Brown wire.

If you have the flasher out there should be continuity between X and L and
X and P.  It won't go open until the current flow is high enough to heat
the bimetallic strip and open the circuit.  An ohmmeter won't flow enough
current to open it.

If you have a newer electronic flasher it depends on what kind you have.
Generally they'll start flashing as soon as there's any path to ground.

You don't want a "really" new flasher that fast flashes when there's a bulb
out.

What's your problem?   No light?  Light all the time?



Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
812-343-5533
Columbus, IN


On Fri, Jul 15, 2022 at 2:24 PM <triumphs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
>         triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>         triumphs-request at autox.team.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>         triumphs-owner at autox.team.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. blinker module 63 TR4 (dave northrup)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2022 17:01:48 +0000
> From: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] blinker module 63 TR4
> Message-ID: <d76c698b21e547d1a562945519b59214 at ranteer.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> The blinker module on this car is likely not original.
>
> It has 3 tabs, labeled L, P, X
>
> I think its bad; seemed hot when I pulled it out after testing the
> blinkers.
>
> How do I test it?
> -------------- next part --------------
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> http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20220715/ad277616/attachment-0001.htm
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 15, Issue 104
> *****************************************
>
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From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Jul 15 14:05:33 2022
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2022 20:05:33 +0000
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 15, Issue 104
In-Reply-To: <CAMHq6Zy1wUsjcPZMnN8r980mwcN6iF_s5ioWZr_ieCBQcY=TFQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.5.1657908002.29468.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <CAMHq6Zy1wUsjcPZMnN8r980mwcN6iF_s5ioWZr_ieCBQcY=TFQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4007d65a32f84139a17e44c3e001b3cc@ranteer.com>

The problem was no blinkers at all, no noise, no trafficator light.

I looked at the wiring diagram (duh!) and that really helped.  Plus I was trying to trouble shoot the blinker module, but made no progress there in testing various connections w/battery.

I cannot see the wire colors behind the plug where the module plugs in ? its up against the side and there is sufficient crap around it to hide them.

After consulting the wiring diagram (again duh!) I realized how I could test it ? by bridging the wires.  After using a test light to ascertain the power source, I found out that the ?blinkers? work just fine, although obviously they don?t blink.   Now its off to a flaps to see if I can find a three prong blinker module, preferably analog, although I?ll go digital if I have to.

Thank you for your response.

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Benjamin Zwissler
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2022 2:14 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 15, Issue 104

Sorry if this has been answered, but I'm on the digest.  The green wire (X) should show battery voltage t if the key is on.  The Green/Brown wire (L) should  also show battery voltage if you don't have the turn signal on and then open and close when you activate the turn signal switch in either direction.  The Light Green/Purple wire (P) goes to the dash lamp and should do the same as the Green/Brown wire.

If you have the flasher out there should be continuity between X and L and X and P.  It won't go open until the current flow is high enough to heat the bimetallic strip and open the circuit.  An ohmmeter won't flow enough current to open it.

If you have a newer electronic flasher it depends on what kind you have.  Generally they'll start flashing as soon as there's any path to ground.

You don't want a "really" new flasher that fast flashes when there's a bulb out.

What's your problem?   No light?  Light all the time?



Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com<mailto:bjzwissler at gmail.com>
812-343-5533
Columbus, IN


On Fri, Jul 15, 2022 at 2:24 PM <triumphs-request at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs-request at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
        triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
        http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
        triumphs-request at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs-request at autox.team.net>

You can reach the person managing the list at
        triumphs-owner at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs-owner at autox.team.net>

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. blinker module 63 TR4 (dave northrup)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2022 17:01:48 +0000
From: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com<mailto:dave at ranteer.com>>
To: "triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>" <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
Subject: [TR] blinker module 63 TR4
Message-ID: <d76c698b21e547d1a562945519b59214 at ranteer.com<mailto:d76c698b21e547d1a562945519b59214 at ranteer.com>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

The blinker module on this car is likely not original.

It has 3 tabs, labeled L, P, X

I think its bad; seemed hot when I pulled it out after testing the blinkers.

How do I test it?
-------------- next part --------------
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------------------------------

Subject: Digest Footer

_______________________________________________

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


------------------------------

End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 15, Issue 104
*****************************************
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From grglmn at gmail.com  Fri Jul 15 15:11:08 2022
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2022 16:11:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 15, Issue 104
In-Reply-To: <4007d65a32f84139a17e44c3e001b3cc@ranteer.com>
References: <mailman.5.1657908002.29468.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <CAMHq6Zy1wUsjcPZMnN8r980mwcN6iF_s5ioWZr_ieCBQcY=TFQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <4007d65a32f84139a17e44c3e001b3cc@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aYNHa9aSZj1zK_XevXdN8pu4-hVOUOP_fSNwK52Kij4ZA@mail.gmail.com>

Dave, way back when Randall (RIP) recommended an EL13 Flasher to me, 3
prong, wasn't a Triumph, but search of the archives show he recommended for
Triumph as well, Tridon or other brands.  Should be available at FLAPS.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Fri, Jul 15, 2022, 3:36 PM dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> The problem was no blinkers at all, no noise, no trafficator light.
>
>
>
> I looked at the wiring diagram (duh!) and that really helped.  Plus I was
> trying to trouble shoot the blinker module, but made no progress there in
> testing various connections w/battery.
>
>
>
> I cannot see the wire colors behind the plug where the module plugs in ?
> its up against the side and there is sufficient crap around it to hide them.
>
>
>
> After consulting the wiring diagram (again duh!) I realized how I could
> test it ? by bridging the wires.  After using a test light to ascertain the
> power source, I found out that the ?blinkers? work just fine, although
> obviously they don?t blink.   Now its off to a flaps to see if I can find a
> three prong blinker module, preferably analog, although I?ll go digital if
> I have to.
>
>
>
> Thank you for your response.
>
>
>
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Benjamin
> Zwissler
> *Sent:* Friday, July 15, 2022 2:14 PM
> *To:* Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 15, Issue 104
>
>
>
> Sorry if this has been answered, but I'm on the digest.  The green wire
> (X) should show battery voltage t if the key is on.  The Green/Brown wire
> (L) should  also show battery voltage if you don't have the turn signal on
> and then open and close when you activate the turn signal switch in either
> direction.  The Light Green/Purple wire (P) goes to the dash lamp and
> should do the same as the Green/Brown wire.
>
>
>
> If you have the flasher out there should be continuity between X and L and
> X and P.  It won't go open until the current flow is high enough to heat
> the bimetallic strip and open the circuit.  An ohmmeter won't flow enough
> current to open it.
>
>
>
> If you have a newer electronic flasher it depends on what kind you have.
> Generally they'll start flashing as soon as there's any path to ground.
>
>
>
> You don't want a "really" new flasher that fast flashes when there's a
> bulb out.
>
>
>
> What's your problem?   No light?  Light all the time?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Ben Zwissler
>
> bjzwissler at gmail.com
>
> 812-343-5533
>
> Columbus, IN
>
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 15, 2022 at 2:24 PM <triumphs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
>         triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>         triumphs-request at autox.team.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>         triumphs-owner at autox.team.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. blinker module 63 TR4 (dave northrup)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2022 17:01:48 +0000
> From: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] blinker module 63 TR4
> Message-ID: <d76c698b21e547d1a562945519b59214 at ranteer.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> The blinker module on this car is likely not original.
>
> It has 3 tabs, labeled L, P, X
>
> I think its bad; seemed hot when I pulled it out after testing the
> blinkers.
>
> How do I test it?
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20220715/ad277616/attachment-0001.htm
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 15, Issue 104
> *****************************************
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
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From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Jul 15 15:12:22 2022
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2022 21:12:22 +0000
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 15, Issue 104
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aYNHa9aSZj1zK_XevXdN8pu4-hVOUOP_fSNwK52Kij4ZA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.5.1657908002.29468.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <CAMHq6Zy1wUsjcPZMnN8r980mwcN6iF_s5ioWZr_ieCBQcY=TFQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <4007d65a32f84139a17e44c3e001b3cc@ranteer.com>,
 <CAFtw3aYNHa9aSZj1zK_XevXdN8pu4-hVOUOP_fSNwK52Kij4ZA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <b79d7f2e39d84d6b8fd64506e5938d6f@ranteer.com>

Thank you


-------- Original message --------
From: Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com>
Date: 7/15/22 4:11 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 15, Issue 104

Dave, way back when Randall (RIP) recommended an EL13 Flasher to me, 3 prong, wasn't a Triumph, but search of the archives show he recommended for Triumph as well, Tridon or other brands.  Should be available at FLAPS.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Fri, Jul 15, 2022, 3:36 PM dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com<mailto:dave at ranteer.com>> wrote:
The problem was no blinkers at all, no noise, no trafficator light.

I looked at the wiring diagram (duh!) and that really helped.  Plus I was trying to trouble shoot the blinker module, but made no progress there in testing various connections w/battery.

I cannot see the wire colors behind the plug where the module plugs in ? its up against the side and there is sufficient crap around it to hide them.

After consulting the wiring diagram (again duh!) I realized how I could test it ? by bridging the wires.  After using a test light to ascertain the power source, I found out that the ?blinkers? work just fine, although obviously they don?t blink.   Now its off to a flaps to see if I can find a three prong blinker module, preferably analog, although I?ll go digital if I have to.

Thank you for your response.

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Benjamin Zwissler
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2022 2:14 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 15, Issue 104

Sorry if this has been answered, but I'm on the digest.  The green wire (X) should show battery voltage t if the key is on.  The Green/Brown wire (L) should  also show battery voltage if you don't have the turn signal on and then open and close when you activate the turn signal switch in either direction.  The Light Green/Purple wire (P) goes to the dash lamp and should do the same as the Green/Brown wire.

If you have the flasher out there should be continuity between X and L and X and P.  It won't go open until the current flow is high enough to heat the bimetallic strip and open the circuit.  An ohmmeter won't flow enough current to open it.

If you have a newer electronic flasher it depends on what kind you have.  Generally they'll start flashing as soon as there's any path to ground.

You don't want a "really" new flasher that fast flashes when there's a bulb out.

What's your problem?   No light?  Light all the time?



Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com<mailto:bjzwissler at gmail.com>
812-343-5533
Columbus, IN


On Fri, Jul 15, 2022 at 2:24 PM <triumphs-request at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs-request at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
        triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
        http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
        triumphs-request at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs-request at autox.team.net>

You can reach the person managing the list at
        triumphs-owner at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs-owner at autox.team.net>

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. blinker module 63 TR4 (dave northrup)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2022 17:01:48 +0000
From: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com<mailto:dave at ranteer.com>>
To: "triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>" <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
Subject: [TR] blinker module 63 TR4
Message-ID: <d76c698b21e547d1a562945519b59214 at ranteer.com<mailto:d76c698b21e547d1a562945519b59214 at ranteer.com>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

The blinker module on this car is likely not original.

It has 3 tabs, labeled L, P, X

I think its bad; seemed hot when I pulled it out after testing the blinkers.

How do I test it?
-------------- next part --------------
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URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20220715/ad277616/attachment-0001.htm>

------------------------------

Subject: Digest Footer

_______________________________________________

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


------------------------------

End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 15, Issue 104
*****************************************
** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Jul 15 17:08:51 2022
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2022 23:08:51 +0000
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 15, Issue 104
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aYNHa9aSZj1zK_XevXdN8pu4-hVOUOP_fSNwK52Kij4ZA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.5.1657908002.29468.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <CAMHq6Zy1wUsjcPZMnN8r980mwcN6iF_s5ioWZr_ieCBQcY=TFQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <4007d65a32f84139a17e44c3e001b3cc@ranteer.com>,
 <CAFtw3aYNHa9aSZj1zK_XevXdN8pu4-hVOUOP_fSNwK52Kij4ZA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2e9ffc1e5cde4fec8adf0c378b37f4b5@ranteer.com>

We have blinkers!!!!!


-------- Original message --------
From: Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com>
Date: 7/15/22 4:11 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 15, Issue 104

Dave, way back when Randall (RIP) recommended an EL13 Flasher to me, 3 prong, wasn't a Triumph, but search of the archives show he recommended for Triumph as well, Tridon or other brands.  Should be available at FLAPS.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Fri, Jul 15, 2022, 3:36 PM dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com<mailto:dave at ranteer.com>> wrote:
The problem was no blinkers at all, no noise, no trafficator light.

I looked at the wiring diagram (duh!) and that really helped.  Plus I was trying to trouble shoot the blinker module, but made no progress there in testing various connections w/battery.

I cannot see the wire colors behind the plug where the module plugs in ? its up against the side and there is sufficient crap around it to hide them.

After consulting the wiring diagram (again duh!) I realized how I could test it ? by bridging the wires.  After using a test light to ascertain the power source, I found out that the ?blinkers? work just fine, although obviously they don?t blink.   Now its off to a flaps to see if I can find a three prong blinker module, preferably analog, although I?ll go digital if I have to.

Thank you for your response.

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Benjamin Zwissler
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2022 2:14 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 15, Issue 104

Sorry if this has been answered, but I'm on the digest.  The green wire (X) should show battery voltage t if the key is on.  The Green/Brown wire (L) should  also show battery voltage if you don't have the turn signal on and then open and close when you activate the turn signal switch in either direction.  The Light Green/Purple wire (P) goes to the dash lamp and should do the same as the Green/Brown wire.

If you have the flasher out there should be continuity between X and L and X and P.  It won't go open until the current flow is high enough to heat the bimetallic strip and open the circuit.  An ohmmeter won't flow enough current to open it.

If you have a newer electronic flasher it depends on what kind you have.  Generally they'll start flashing as soon as there's any path to ground.

You don't want a "really" new flasher that fast flashes when there's a bulb out.

What's your problem?   No light?  Light all the time?



Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com<mailto:bjzwissler at gmail.com>
812-343-5533
Columbus, IN


On Fri, Jul 15, 2022 at 2:24 PM <triumphs-request at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs-request at autox.team.net>> wrote:
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Today's Topics:

   1. blinker module 63 TR4 (dave northrup)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2022 17:01:48 +0000
From: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com<mailto:dave at ranteer.com>>
To: "triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>" <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
Subject: [TR] blinker module 63 TR4
Message-ID: <d76c698b21e547d1a562945519b59214 at ranteer.com<mailto:d76c698b21e547d1a562945519b59214 at ranteer.com>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

The blinker module on this car is likely not original.

It has 3 tabs, labeled L, P, X

I think its bad; seemed hot when I pulled it out after testing the blinkers.

How do I test it?
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------------------------------

Subject: Digest Footer

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End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 15, Issue 104
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From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Jul 20 10:28:10 2022
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2022 16:28:10 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3a
Message-ID: <9ad44c0fc0aa4fbbacc1531140032c6c@ranteer.com>

I am helping a friend; he is trying to finish the steering assembly.  He says Moss told him part 310-520, the nut, should be metric.  The threads on the upper steering column, part 525-015, column upper inner, are messed up.  he wants to rethread it, and was told by Moss that it should be 18mm with a 1.0 thread pitch.  Is that right?  Or is the replacement part, supplied by Moss (525-015) metric but the original is SAE?
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 20 10:54:28 2022
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2022 16:54:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3a
In-Reply-To: <9ad44c0fc0aa4fbbacc1531140032c6c@ranteer.com>
References: <9ad44c0fc0aa4fbbacc1531140032c6c@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <1961159825.2226198.1658336068701@mail.yahoo.com>

 not sure.but i would take the nut to your local ace hardware and just try it against thier stock and see what joints together.

Frank



    On Wednesday, July 20, 2022 at 09:42:01 AM PDT, dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:  
 
  
I am helping a friend; he is trying to finish the steering assembly.? He says Moss told him part 310-520, the nut, should be metric.? The threads on the upper steering column, part 525-015, column upper inner, are messed up.? he wants to rethread it, and was told by Moss that it should be 18mm with a 1.0 thread pitch.? Is that right?? Or is the replacement part, supplied by Moss (525-015) metric but the original is SAE?
 ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Wed Jul 20 12:33:06 2022
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2022 11:33:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3a
In-Reply-To: <9ad44c0fc0aa4fbbacc1531140032c6c@ranteer.com>
References: <9ad44c0fc0aa4fbbacc1531140032c6c@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaGB1AM79HKG8aJxbmWCUJ7c2-Zd3Gdn=yWj1v9eqjDCJQ@mail.gmail.com>

Did Triumph use metric in those days?

On Wed, Jul 20, 2022, 9:38 AM dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> I am helping a friend; he is trying to finish the steering assembly.  He
> says Moss told him part 310-520, the nut, should be metric.  The threads on
> the upper steering column, part 525-015, column upper inner, are messed
> up.  he wants to rethread it, and was told by Moss that it should be 18mm
> with a 1.0 thread pitch.  Is that right?  Or is the replacement part,
> supplied by Moss (525-015) metric but the original is SAE?
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 20 14:54:49 2022
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2022 20:54:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3a
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGB1AM79HKG8aJxbmWCUJ7c2-Zd3Gdn=yWj1v9eqjDCJQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9ad44c0fc0aa4fbbacc1531140032c6c@ranteer.com>
 <CANLCLaGB1AM79HKG8aJxbmWCUJ7c2-Zd3Gdn=yWj1v9eqjDCJQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1835075587.52607.1658350489252@mail.yahoo.com>

 on very few parts.the transmission plugs come to mind.
Frank
    On Wednesday, July 20, 2022 at 12:38:13 PM PDT, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Did Triumph use metric in those days?
On Wed, Jul 20, 2022, 9:38 AM dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:


I am helping a friend; he is trying to finish the steering assembly.? He says Moss told him part 310-520, the nut, should be metric.? The threads on the upper steering column, part 525-015, column upper inner, are messed up.? he wants to rethread it, and was told by Moss that it should be 18mm with a 1.0 thread pitch.? Is that right?? Or is the replacement part, supplied by Moss (525-015) metric but the original is SAE?
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Jul 21 08:56:27 2022
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2022 08:56:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] Get in line
Message-ID: <c9d8a16d-089d-1b4b-39e9-e5ce5a2e3714@bradakis.com>

Don't all jump at once to grab this bargain!

https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7976826


mjb.



From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Jul 21 09:37:41 2022
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2022 11:37:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Get in line
In-Reply-To: <c9d8a16d-089d-1b4b-39e9-e5ce5a2e3714@bradakis.com>
References: <c9d8a16d-089d-1b4b-39e9-e5ce5a2e3714@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4c7b620f-e9d3-4539-6340-c232941f9122@adelphia.net>

50 grand? Better off buying a 289 65 Mustang for about 20 grand if perfect.

Bob

72 6 stock.

On 7/21/22 10:56 AM, Mark Bradakis wrote:
> Don't all jump at once to grab this bargain!
>
> https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7976826
>
>
> mjb.
>
>

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Thu Jul 21 10:07:04 2022
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2022 12:07:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Get in line
In-Reply-To: <4c7b620f-e9d3-4539-6340-c232941f9122@adelphia.net>
References: <4c7b620f-e9d3-4539-6340-c232941f9122@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <476E169F-791A-40C0-BFA4-0EAF9ADEA298@fuse.net>

Nobody ever claimed they weren?t proud of their Triumph ?.
Dave Connitt

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 21, 2022, at 11:48 AM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
> 
> ?50 grand? Better off buying a 289 65 Mustang for about 20 grand if perfect.
> 
> Bob
> 
> 72 6 stock.
> 
>> On 7/21/22 10:56 AM, Mark Bradakis wrote:
>> Don't all jump at once to grab this bargain!
>> 
>> https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7976826
>> 
>> 
>> mjb.
>> 
>> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 21 10:11:54 2022
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2022 11:11:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Get in line
In-Reply-To: <4c7b620f-e9d3-4539-6340-c232941f9122@adelphia.net>
References: <4c7b620f-e9d3-4539-6340-c232941f9122@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <1EAE17F7-0C51-4521-ACC3-A893AAE63E73@yahoo.com>

Serious buyers only?..


?Do your best, and let the sparrows twitter?  Lofty

On Jul 21, 2022, at 10:42 AM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:

?50 grand? Better off buying a 289 65 Mustang for about 20 grand if perfect.

Bob

72 6 stock.

On 7/21/22 10:56 AM, Mark Bradakis wrote:
> Don't all jump at once to grab this bargain!
> 
> https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7976826
> 
> 
> mjb.
> 
> 
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From levilevi at comcast.net  Thu Jul 21 11:08:51 2022
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2022 11:08:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] Get in line
In-Reply-To: <476E169F-791A-40C0-BFA4-0EAF9ADEA298@fuse.net>
References: <476E169F-791A-40C0-BFA4-0EAF9ADEA298@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <38C29656-B564-41B7-9A0D-976C8A53AAD7@comcast.net>

And the conversation goes ?but honey I put my car up for sale but no one wants to buy it , what more can I do??


Sent from my Commadore 64

> On Jul 21, 2022, at 10:22 AM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Nobody ever claimed they weren?t proud of their Triumph ?.
> Dave Connitt
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 21, 2022, at 11:48 AM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ?50 grand? Better off buying a 289 65 Mustang for about 20 grand if perfect.
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> 72 6 stock.
>> 
>>>> On 7/21/22 10:56 AM, Mark Bradakis wrote:
>>> Don't all jump at once to grab this bargain!
>>> 
>>> https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7976826
>>> 
>>> 
>>> mjb.
>>> 
>>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net


From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jul 21 11:43:47 2022
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2022 17:43:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Get in line
In-Reply-To: <c9d8a16d-089d-1b4b-39e9-e5ce5a2e3714@bradakis.com>
References: <c9d8a16d-089d-1b4b-39e9-e5ce5a2e3714@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <899037027.478872.1658425427274@mail.yahoo.com>

 Highly customized cars are like bagpipes, either you love 'em or you hate 'em.
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Jul 21, 2022 9:56 am
Subject: [TR] Get in line

Don't all jump at once to grab this bargain!

https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7976826


mjb.

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From dconnitt at fuse.net  Thu Jul 21 11:56:11 2022
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2022 13:56:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Get in line
In-Reply-To: <38C29656-B564-41B7-9A0D-976C8A53AAD7@comcast.net>
References: <38C29656-B564-41B7-9A0D-976C8A53AAD7@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ED006406-13A3-43C8-B252-6657D051B28C@fuse.net>

Risky technique!
Dave Connitt

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 21, 2022, at 1:09 PM, Bud <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ?And the conversation goes ?but honey I put my car up for sale but no one wants to buy it , what more can I do??
> 
> 
> Sent from my Commadore 64
> 
>> On Jul 21, 2022, at 10:22 AM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Nobody ever claimed they weren?t proud of their Triumph ?.
>> Dave Connitt
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Jul 21, 2022, at 11:48 AM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?50 grand? Better off buying a 289 65 Mustang for about 20 grand if perfect.
>>> 
>>> Bob
>>> 
>>> 72 6 stock.
>>> 
>>>>> On 7/21/22 10:56 AM, Mark Bradakis wrote:
>>>> Don't all jump at once to grab this bargain!
>>>> 
>>>> https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7976826
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> mjb.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net
> 


From cliff_hansen at outlook.com  Thu Jul 21 12:58:45 2022
From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2022 18:58:45 +0000
Subject: [TR] Get in line
In-Reply-To: <38C29656-B564-41B7-9A0D-976C8A53AAD7@comcast.net>
References: <476E169F-791A-40C0-BFA4-0EAF9ADEA298@fuse.net>
 <38C29656-B564-41B7-9A0D-976C8A53AAD7@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <SJ0PR14MB4613B1E367FFF5053A900741FA919@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>

?what more can I do??

I?m sure she?d think of something?


Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: Bud<mailto:levilevi at comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2022 11:42 AM
To: Dave Connitt<mailto:dconnitt at fuse.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Get in line

And the conversation goes ?but honey I put my car up for sale but no one wants to buy it , what more can I do??


Sent from my Commadore 64

> On Jul 21, 2022, at 10:22 AM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:
>
> ?Nobody ever claimed they weren?t proud of their Triumph ?.
> Dave Connitt
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jul 21, 2022, at 11:48 AM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
>>
>> ?50 grand? Better off buying a 289 65 Mustang for about 20 grand if perfect.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> 72 6 stock.
>>
>>>> On 7/21/22 10:56 AM, Mark Bradakis wrote:
>>> Don't all jump at once to grab this bargain!
>>>
>>> https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7976826
>>>
>>>
>>> mjb.
>>>
>>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jul 21 15:02:49 2022
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2022 21:02:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Get in line
In-Reply-To: <ED006406-13A3-43C8-B252-6657D051B28C@fuse.net>
References: <38C29656-B564-41B7-9A0D-976C8A53AAD7@comcast.net>
 <ED006406-13A3-43C8-B252-6657D051B28C@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <1814529740.60539.1658437369622@mail.yahoo.com>

 Not really.? If I had $50K I could build anything I wanted.
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net>
To: Bud <levilevi at comcast.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Jul 21, 2022 12:56 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Get in line

Risky technique!
Dave Connitt

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 21, 2022, at 1:09 PM, Bud <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ?And the conversation goes ?but honey I put my car up for sale but no one wants to buy it , what more can I do??
> 
> 
> Sent from my Commadore 64
> 
>> On Jul 21, 2022, at 10:22 AM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Nobody ever claimed they weren?t proud of their Triumph ?.
>> Dave Connitt
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Jul 21, 2022, at 11:48 AM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?50 grand? Better off buying a 289 65 Mustang for about 20 grand if perfect.
>>> 
>>> Bob
>>> 
>>> 72 6 stock.
>>> 
>>>>> On 7/21/22 10:56 AM, Mark Bradakis wrote:
>>>> Don't all jump at once to grab this bargain!
>>>> 
>>>> https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7976826
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> mjb.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
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> 

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jul 21 15:06:46 2022
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2022 21:06:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Get in line
In-Reply-To: <SJ0PR14MB4613B1E367FFF5053A900741FA919@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
References: <476E169F-791A-40C0-BFA4-0EAF9ADEA298@fuse.net>
 <38C29656-B564-41B7-9A0D-976C8A53AAD7@comcast.net>
 <SJ0PR14MB4613B1E367FFF5053A900741FA919@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <1196403358.586533.1658437606402@mail.yahoo.com>

 "For SaleTR6$1"
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at outlook.com>
To: Bud <levilevi at comcast.net>; Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Jul 21, 2022 1:58 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Get in line

#yiv9859161886 #yiv9859161886 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv9859161886 #yiv9859161886 p.yiv9859161886MsoNormal, #yiv9859161886 li.yiv9859161886MsoNormal, #yiv9859161886 div.yiv9859161886MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv9859161886 a:link, #yiv9859161886 span.yiv9859161886MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9859161886 .yiv9859161886MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv9859161886 div.yiv9859161886WordSection1 {}#yiv9859161886 ?what more can I do??  ? I?m sure she?d think of something?  ?  ? Sent from Mail for Windows ? From: Bud
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2022 11:42 AM
To: Dave Connitt
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Get in line ? And the conversation goes ?but honey I put my car up for sale but no one wants to buy it , what more can I do??


Sent from my Commadore 64

> On Jul 21, 2022, at 10:22 AM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Nobody ever claimed they weren?t proud of their Triumph ?.
> Dave Connitt
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 21, 2022, at 11:48 AM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ?50 grand? Better off buying a 289 65 Mustang for about 20 grand if perfect.
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> 72 6 stock.
>> 
>>>> On 7/21/22 10:56 AM, Mark Bradakis wrote:
>>> Don't all jump at once to grab this bargain!
>>> 
>>> https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7976826
>>> 
>>> 
>>> mjb.
>>> 
>>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs?http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs?http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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From stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Thu Jul 21 15:16:51 2022
From: stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org (stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2022 15:16:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] Get in line
In-Reply-To: <c9d8a16d-089d-1b4b-39e9-e5ce5a2e3714@bradakis.com>
References: <c9d8a16d-089d-1b4b-39e9-e5ce5a2e3714@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <000a01d89d47$337d05e0$9a7711a0$@triumphstagclub.org>

That is going to be a tough sale.  

Highly customized with a boatload of money poured into it will need the correct person who falls in
love with it at first sight.  

It looks to be a fun toy, but a Triumph in name only so that excludes the people looking for an LBC
experience, and it has too many "tells" to be a sleeper.

For me the tail customization detracts from it that could be implemented with a bit more taste and
finesse - just sayin, not my taste.

Do a full photo and video workup on it with every conceivable detail and information tidbit and put
it on Bring-a-Trailer.

Glenn aka StagByTriumph



Subject: [TR] Get in line

Don't all jump at once to grab this bargain!

https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7976826


mjb.



From jeremiah at curryclan.net  Thu Jul 21 17:48:36 2022
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (jeremiah at curryclan.net)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2022 17:48:36 -0600
Subject: [TR] Get in line
In-Reply-To: <000a01d89d47$337d05e0$9a7711a0$@triumphstagclub.org>
References: <c9d8a16d-089d-1b4b-39e9-e5ce5a2e3714@bradakis.com>
 <000a01d89d47$337d05e0$9a7711a0$@triumphstagclub.org>
Message-ID: <04d801d89d5c$66075be0$321613a0$@curryclan.net>

I definitely see the appeal of a Triumph with some more power under the hood
and easier to find parts, but the automatic transmission would be a deal
breaker for me.

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of
stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2022 3:17 PM
To: 'Mark Bradakis' <mark at bradakis.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Get in line

That is going to be a tough sale.  

Highly customized with a boatload of money poured into it will need the
correct person who falls in love with it at first sight.  

It looks to be a fun toy, but a Triumph in name only so that excludes the
people looking for an LBC experience, and it has too many "tells" to be a
sleeper.

For me the tail customization detracts from it that could be implemented
with a bit more taste and finesse - just sayin, not my taste.

Do a full photo and video workup on it with every conceivable detail and
information tidbit and put it on Bring-a-Trailer.

Glenn aka StagByTriumph



Subject: [TR] Get in line

Don't all jump at once to grab this bargain!

https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7976826


mjb.


** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeremiah at curryclan.net


From stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Thu Jul 21 17:58:45 2022
From: stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org (stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2022 17:58:45 -0600
Subject: [TR] Get in line
In-Reply-To: <04d801d89d5c$66075be0$321613a0$@curryclan.net>
References: <c9d8a16d-089d-1b4b-39e9-e5ce5a2e3714@bradakis.com>
 <000a01d89d47$337d05e0$9a7711a0$@triumphstagclub.org>
 <04d801d89d5c$66075be0$321613a0$@curryclan.net>
Message-ID: <002701d89d5d$d2b33970$7819ac50$@triumphstagclub.org>

Especially a 3 speed automatic!  That as a huge mistake made for Stags that ZF transmissions fix
nicely.

Now if it were a 6 or 8 speed ZF to leverage the power curve you would have something there.

Not a lot of specs on that GM V8 lump, is it really a 283 maybe out of an old C2/C3 Corvette that
had a Powerglide 3 speed??

Glenn aka StagByTriumph

-----Original Message-----
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net <jeremiah at curryclan.net> 
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2022 5:49 PM
To: stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org; 'Mark Bradakis' <mark at bradakis.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Get in line

I definitely see the appeal of a Triumph with some more power under the hood and easier to find
parts, but the automatic transmission would be a deal breaker for me.

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2022 3:17 PM
To: 'Mark Bradakis' <mark at bradakis.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Get in line

That is going to be a tough sale.  

Highly customized with a boatload of money poured into it will need the correct person who falls in
love with it at first sight.  

It looks to be a fun toy, but a Triumph in name only so that excludes the people looking for an LBC
experience, and it has too many "tells" to be a sleeper.

For me the tail customization detracts from it that could be implemented with a bit more taste and
finesse - just sayin, not my taste.

Do a full photo and video workup on it with every conceivable detail and information tidbit and put
it on Bring-a-Trailer.

Glenn aka StagByTriumph



Subject: [TR] Get in line

Don't all jump at once to grab this bargain!

https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7976826


mjb.


** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeremiah at curryclan.net


From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jul 21 20:09:55 2022
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2022 02:09:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Get in line
In-Reply-To: <002701d89d5d$d2b33970$7819ac50$@triumphstagclub.org>
References: <c9d8a16d-089d-1b4b-39e9-e5ce5a2e3714@bradakis.com>
 <000a01d89d47$337d05e0$9a7711a0$@triumphstagclub.org>
 <04d801d89d5c$66075be0$321613a0$@curryclan.net>
 <002701d89d5d$d2b33970$7819ac50$@triumphstagclub.org>
Message-ID: <1875687385.694183.1658455795123@mail.yahoo.com>

 Well, it IS a period drive train.? But for my money (especially this kind of money) I would want something more modern.
No word about what diff he is using.? If it is the stock TR6 unit better line up a replacement today.
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org
To: jeremiah at curryclan.net; stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org; 'Mark Bradakis' <mark at bradakis.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Jul 21, 2022 6:58 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Get in line

Especially a 3 speed automatic!? That as a huge mistake made for Stags that ZF transmissions fix
nicely.

Now if it were a 6 or 8 speed ZF to leverage the power curve you would have something there.

Not a lot of specs on that GM V8 lump, is it really a 283 maybe out of an old C2/C3 Corvette that
had a Powerglide 3 speed??

Glenn aka StagByTriumph

-----Original Message-----
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net <jeremiah at curryclan.net> 
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2022 5:49 PM
To: stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org; 'Mark Bradakis' <mark at bradakis.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Get in line

I definitely see the appeal of a Triumph with some more power under the hood and easier to find
parts, but the automatic transmission would be a deal breaker for me.

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2022 3:17 PM
To: 'Mark Bradakis' <mark at bradakis.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Get in line

That is going to be a tough sale.? 

Highly customized with a boatload of money poured into it will need the correct person who falls in
love with it at first sight.? 

It looks to be a fun toy, but a Triumph in name only so that excludes the people looking for an LBC
experience, and it has too many "tells" to be a sleeper.

For me the tail customization detracts from it that could be implemented with a bit more taste and
finesse - just sayin, not my taste.

Do a full photo and video workup on it with every conceivable detail and information tidbit and put
it on Bring-a-Trailer.

Glenn aka StagByTriumph



Subject: [TR] Get in line

Don't all jump at once to grab this bargain!

https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7976826


mjb.


** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeremiah at curryclan.net

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From stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Fri Jul 22 07:57:59 2022
From: stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org (stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org)
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2022 07:57:59 -0600
Subject: [TR] Get in line
In-Reply-To: <1875687385.694183.1658455795123@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <c9d8a16d-089d-1b4b-39e9-e5ce5a2e3714@bradakis.com>
 <000a01d89d47$337d05e0$9a7711a0$@triumphstagclub.org>
 <04d801d89d5c$66075be0$321613a0$@curryclan.net>
 <002701d89d5d$d2b33970$7819ac50$@triumphstagclub.org>
 <1875687385.694183.1658455795123@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001401d89dd3$11163d00$3342b700$@triumphstagclub.org>

If the lump is from a C2 then carbureted bhp was ~ 245, listed in the ad as 220bhp, the Stanpart diff and GKN half shafts should handle 250 bhp, but we know that is from new, not 50 years of wear and tear with fatigue cracks in the axles.

 

With all that modification, it should have a corvette diff and axles but I note four bolt wheels and no mention of anything other than stock diff and stock half shafts.

 

Someone somewhere will love it ?

 

Glenn aka StagByTriumph

 

From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> 
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2022 8:10 PM
To: stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org; jeremiah at curryclan.net; mark at bradakis.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Get in line

 

Well, it IS a period drive train.  But for my money (especially this kind of money) I would want something more modern.

 

No word about what diff he is using.  If it is the stock TR6 unit better line up a replacement today.

 

Dave 

 

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org <mailto:stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org> 
To: jeremiah at curryclan.net <mailto:jeremiah at curryclan.net> ; stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org <mailto:stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org> ; 'Mark Bradakis' <mark at bradakis.com <mailto:mark at bradakis.com> >; triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thu, Jul 21, 2022 6:58 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Get in line

Especially a 3 speed automatic!  That as a huge mistake made for Stags that ZF transmissions fix
nicely.

Now if it were a 6 or 8 speed ZF to leverage the power curve you would have something there.

Not a lot of specs on that GM V8 lump, is it really a 283 maybe out of an old C2/C3 Corvette that
had a Powerglide 3 speed??

Glenn aka StagByTriumph


-----Original Message-----
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net <mailto:jeremiah at curryclan.net>  <jeremiah at curryclan.net <mailto:jeremiah at curryclan.net> > 
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2022 5:49 PM
To: stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org <mailto:stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org> ; 'Mark Bradakis' <mark at bradakis.com <mailto:mark at bradakis.com> >; triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: RE: [TR] Get in line

I definitely see the appeal of a Triumph with some more power under the hood and easier to find
parts, but the automatic transmission would be a deal breaker for me.

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org <mailto:stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org> 
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2022 3:17 PM
To: 'Mark Bradakis' <mark at bradakis.com <mailto:mark at bradakis.com> >; triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [TR] Get in line

That is going to be a tough sale.  

Highly customized with a boatload of money poured into it will need the correct person who falls in
love with it at first sight.  

It looks to be a fun toy, but a Triumph in name only so that excludes the people looking for an LBC
experience, and it has too many "tells" to be a sleeper.

For me the tail customization detracts from it that could be implemented with a bit more taste and
finesse - just sayin, not my taste.

Do a full photo and video workup on it with every conceivable detail and information tidbit and put
it on Bring-a-Trailer.

Glenn aka StagByTriumph



Subject: [TR] Get in line

Don't all jump at once to grab this bargain!

https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7976826


mjb.


** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs> http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage:
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Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue Jul 26 09:00:24 2022
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2022 08:00:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] 3 pronged oil cap for Hearald
Message-ID: <CANLCLaFy_KDrwX5E9Be9mo3p39GYBXfwuiVJ76SUVV5wUEOGgg@mail.gmail.com>

I have a Stag, but am aware the earlier Stags share a 3 pronged oil cap
with the Hearald. These seems to be rare, but wondering if anyone in the
Hearald club has a source?
Sujit
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From artwmcewen at gmail.com  Tue Jul 26 12:56:56 2022
From: artwmcewen at gmail.com (Art McEwen)
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2022 14:56:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Time_to_sell=2C_=E2=80=9860_TR3?=
Message-ID: <5B015B1D-C403-4C3B-810B-9BDAF88A9318@gmail.com>

Had it nearly 30 years, time to downsize the fleet ? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3259153577663176/
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From darrellw360 at mac.com  Tue Jul 26 13:33:34 2022
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2022 12:33:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Time_to_sell=2C_=E2=80=9860_TR3?=
In-Reply-To: <5B015B1D-C403-4C3B-810B-9BDAF88A9318@gmail.com>
References: <5B015B1D-C403-4C3B-810B-9BDAF88A9318@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <97D63B21-2394-4009-ABA3-46096849BCBC@mac.com>


Tesla tr3?

> On Jul 26, 2022, at 11:56 AM, Art McEwen <artwmcewen at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Had it nearly 30 years, time to downsize the fleet ??https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3259153577663176/ <https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3259153577663176/>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw360 at mac.com

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 26 13:43:27 2022
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (Notakitcar)
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2022 14:43:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Time_to_sell=2C_=E2=80=9860_TR3?=
In-Reply-To: <5B015B1D-C403-4C3B-810B-9BDAF88A9318@gmail.com>
References: <5B015B1D-C403-4C3B-810B-9BDAF88A9318@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000201d8a127$fa6c07d0$ef441770$@yahoo.com>

?Tesla TR3??

 

Looks like a car that has been loved for these 30 years, I am sure it was well maintained.  Price right, should go quickly to a new home.

 

All the best,

Bill

TS3080L

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2022 1:57 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Time to sell, ?60 TR3

 

Had it nearly 30 years, time to downsize the fleet ? <https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3259153577663176/>  https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3259153577663176/

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From dave at ranteer.com  Tue Jul 26 14:23:54 2022
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2022 20:23:54 +0000
Subject: [TR] selling our TR4
Message-ID: <df556881be444368aee13aefcb9bb5bf@ranteer.com>

Here is a web page with the description and a zillion photos

Car is located in the Dallas area

https://www.ranteer.com/tr4/

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From artwmcewen at gmail.com  Tue Jul 26 14:55:21 2022
From: artwmcewen at gmail.com (Art McEwen)
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2022 16:55:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Time_to_sell=2C_=E2=80=9860_TR3?=
In-Reply-To: <000201d8a127$fa6c07d0$ef441770$@yahoo.com>
References: <000201d8a127$fa6c07d0$ef441770$@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <740DAD01-EE51-47DB-B8A4-FD6E4E7F0A77@gmail.com>

My browser didn?t show me the ?other? option when I posted it.  Corrected it via iPad.

> On Jul 26, 2022, at 3:43 PM, Notakitcar <notakitcar at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> ?Tesla TR3??
>  
> Looks like a car that has been loved for these 30 years, I am sure it was well maintained.  Price right, should go quickly to a new home.
>  
> All the best,
> Bill
> TS3080L
>  
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen
> Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2022 1:57 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Time to sell, ?60 TR3
>  
> Had it nearly 30 years, time to downsize the fleet ? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3259153577663176/
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From stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Tue Jul 26 15:07:21 2022
From: stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org (stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org)
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2022 15:07:21 -0600
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Time_to_sell=2C_=E2=80=9860_TR3?=
In-Reply-To: <97D63B21-2394-4009-ABA3-46096849BCBC@mac.com>
References: <5B015B1D-C403-4C3B-810B-9BDAF88A9318@gmail.com>
 <97D63B21-2394-4009-ABA3-46096849BCBC@mac.com>
Message-ID: <00a501d8a133$b46b8920$1d429b60$@triumphstagclub.org>

Best ?Tesla? ever made, or to be made in the future!   

 

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Darrell Walker
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2022 1:34 PM
To: Art McEwen <artwmcewen at gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Time to sell, ?60 TR3

 

 

Tesla tr3?





On Jul 26, 2022, at 11:56 AM, Art McEwen <artwmcewen at gmail.com <mailto:artwmcewen at gmail.com> > wrote:

 

Had it nearly 30 years, time to downsize the fleet ? <https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3259153577663176/>  https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3259153577663176/

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw360 at mac.com

 

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From stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Tue Jul 26 16:15:23 2022
From: stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org (stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org)
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2022 16:15:23 -0600
Subject: [TR] 3 pronged oil cap for Hearald
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaFy_KDrwX5E9Be9mo3p39GYBXfwuiVJ76SUVV5wUEOGgg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaFy_KDrwX5E9Be9mo3p39GYBXfwuiVJ76SUVV5wUEOGgg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00c101d8a13d$35231c00$9f695400$@triumphstagclub.org>

Sujit,

 

Actually, it is a Herald fuel cap that is the same size as the Early Stag Oil cap, only the Fuel Cap is chromed on the Heald and matte aluminum on the Stag.

 

Need one?    I may have a three prong for a Stag, or you can replace the whole cam cover and go with the more common two blade style

 

Glenn aka StagByTriumph

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2022 9:00 AM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] 3 pronged oil cap for Hearald

 

I have a Stag, but am aware the earlier Stags share a 3 pronged oil cap with the Hearald. These seems to be rare, but wondering if anyone in the Hearald club has a source?

Sujit

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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue Jul 26 16:25:17 2022
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2022 15:25:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] 3 pronged oil cap for Hearald
In-Reply-To: <00c101d8a13d$35231c00$9f695400$@triumphstagclub.org>
References: <CANLCLaFy_KDrwX5E9Be9mo3p39GYBXfwuiVJ76SUVV5wUEOGgg@mail.gmail.com>
 <00c101d8a13d$35231c00$9f695400$@triumphstagclub.org>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaEk=T9LeVLzRBVvVdS5WPtEnO4mMPqbXU5_wMJ_JD90kA@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Glenn,
I have both flavors with matching cam covers.  However, some folks once in
a while look for one. EJ Wards make new 2 pronged ones.
Regards, Sujit

On Tue, Jul 26, 2022 at 3:15 PM <stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org> wrote:

> Sujit,
>
>
>
> Actually, it is a Herald fuel cap that is the same size as the Early Stag
> Oil cap, only the Fuel Cap is chromed on the Heald and matte aluminum on
> the Stag.
>
>
>
> Need one?    I may have a three prong for a Stag, or you can replace the
> whole cam cover and go with the more common two blade style
>
>
>
> Glenn aka StagByTriumph
>
>
>
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Sujit
> Roy
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 26, 2022 9:00 AM
> *To:* Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [TR] 3 pronged oil cap for Hearald
>
>
>
> I have a Stag, but am aware the earlier Stags share a 3 pronged oil cap
> with the Hearald. These seems to be rare, but wondering if anyone in the
> Hearald club has a source?
>
> Sujit
>


-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From polyspec at aol.com  Wed Jul 27 19:33:52 2022
From: polyspec at aol.com (Robert Childrez)
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2022 01:33:52 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
References: <289075365.3192869.1658972032690.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <289075365.3192869.1658972032690@mail.yahoo.com>




Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
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From davgil at aol.com  Thu Jul 28 07:58:08 2022
From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2022 13:58:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Valve ticking
References: <2105884328.1874535.1659016688971.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2105884328.1874535.1659016688971@mail.yahoo.com>

My 1976 TR6 has a little ticking sound at idle, as if a valve is sticking a bit.? I am curious if I can assume that this is normal rattle on these engines as things wear or if I should start paying closer attention.? To my knowledge the valve seats have never been hardened.? I recently set the valve lash and believe it is spot on.? Engine has about 54,000 miles.? Also, does anyone use an oil additive on a regular basis and what has been your experience or recommendations.? Thanks for any ideas or suggestions.David Gill1976 TR6??
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From billbrewer59 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 28 14:11:22 2022
From: billbrewer59 at yahoo.com (William Brewer)
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2022 13:11:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
References: <81fdd98f-229a-3e88-d551-e9dd68e566f4.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <81fdd98f-229a-3e88-d551-e9dd68e566f4@yahoo.com>

 ???? I have been trying to get the oil pan to quit being so leaky for 
over 30 years and two engine rebuilds now. I made sure that the bolt 
holes in the pan are lower than the mounting surface. I check the pan 
fit with a feeler gauge with no gasket. I get everything cleaned off. I 
have tried Permatex, Aviation Permatex and Hylomar Blue. I have used the 
recommended torques. Still slowly seeping and dripping over time. It 
seems worse in the front that the rear and no the front aluminum sealing 
block isn't stripped out.

 ???? I have family members asking me not to bring the TR3 and Morgan 
over to their houses because of the amount of drips.

 ???? I have looking over the "Triumph Experience" website and it looks 
like most owners there have thrown their hands up and given up. Either 
that or the ones that say that they are drip free probably haven't 
driven their cars much.

 ???? I've considered CNC'ing a 3/8" steel mounting flange, welding that 
to the top of the oil sump (the weld would seal on the inside) and then 
torquing that sonofabitch down tight with permatex on it. No more 
worrying about flange distortion.

 ???? I've also considered making a sheet metal "catch box" that would 
mount under the pan and completely enclose it to catch drips. It could 
be held on with 4 bolts and removed/cleaned out at oil changes. I should 
make a long aluminum drip pan that goes under the sump, rear seal and 
transmission.

 ???? Anyone ever get there TR2/3/4 oil pans to stay drip free?

 ???? -Bill Brewer

 ???? Morro Bay, CA


From fmags at cox.net  Thu Jul 28 17:53:28 2022
From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson)
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2022 18:53:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] valve ticking
Message-ID: <A13EB7E6-5FD6-4B6D-8421-805EF25943CA@cox.net>

?Hi David,

It could be several things.  Some light ticking is normal.  
You might try an oil additive.  I?ve used Marvel Mystery oil with every oil chnage for many years and I first started using it after I had a sticking valve on a Chevy Impala at the suggestion of a mechanic and it freed that sticking valve right up.  I?ve used it ever since.
It could also be your valves needing adjustment, but it sounds like you?ve done that.  You might recheck it to make sure that an adjustment nut didn?t come loose.
Lastly, pull the valve cover off and make sure that you dont have a broken valve spring.
 I had a light valve ticking on my GT6, which sounded different than usual and it turned out to be a broken valve spring.  
Hope this helps,
Frank

Sent from my iPad

From j_bar_j at hotmail.com  Thu Jul 28 17:53:57 2022
From: j_bar_j at hotmail.com (Joel Justin)
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2022 23:53:57 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
Message-ID: <BL0PR10MB277280A74929E3F37643A4DFBE969@BL0PR10MB2772.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Bill,

If it's leaking from the front, it's quite likely it's not the oil pan but rather the front engine plate. While it's something like 3/16" steel, they can suffer from over-torquing and warp. Even though there's lots of bolts, seeps between them happens. Given the plate ends where the oil pan begins, it's pretty hart to distinguish pan vs. plate. If you clean things up REALLY well, then run it for a short time, you might be able to see which it is. Unfortunately, it's pretty much an engine out to replace, unless you try to support the front of the engine and try to remove it in situ. You could try using lots of Permatex silicone sealer when you reassemble, or buy a new front plate (available new in aluminum). If you convince yourself it's the pan, you could also purchase an aluminum one. It has a thick flat block mating surface. Good luck!

Joel Justin...
'54 TR2
'58 10 Estate
'60 TR3A
'61 TR4
'65 2000 Saloon
'71 GT6


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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 29 07:39:28 2022
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 08:39:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR10MB277280A74929E3F37643A4DFBE969@BL0PR10MB2772.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR10MB277280A74929E3F37643A4DFBE969@BL0PR10MB2772.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <C86BB8D6-FEDE-4CDD-A90E-FE1F6428B1EE@yahoo.com>

Good thought Joel. I don?t have any leak issues but you make a good point.  Also could be the timing cover, which suffers the same ills as the sump pan. 
Best regards,
Bill
TS30800L

?Do your best, and let the sparrows twitter?  Lofty

On Jul 28, 2022, at 11:21 PM, Joel Justin <j_bar_j at hotmail.com> wrote:

?
Bill,
 
If it?s leaking from the front, it?s quite likely it?s not the oil pan but rather the front engine plate. While it?s something like 3/16? steel, they can suffer from over-torquing and warp. Even though there?s lots of bolts, seeps between them happens. Given the plate ends where the oil pan begins, it?s pretty hart to distinguish pan vs. plate. If you clean things up REALLY well, then run it for a short time, you might be able to see which it is. Unfortunately, it?s pretty much an engine out to replace, unless you try to support the front of the engine and try to remove it in situ. You could try using lots of Permatex silicone sealer when you reassemble, or buy a new front plate (available new in aluminum). If you convince yourself it?s the pan, you could also purchase an aluminum one. It has a thick flat block mating surface. Good luck!
 
Joel Justin?
?54 TR2
?58 10 Estate
?60 TR3A
?61 TR4
?65 2000 Saloon
?71 GT6
 
 
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com
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From cliff_hansen at outlook.com  Fri Jul 29 08:50:59 2022
From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 14:50:59 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
In-Reply-To: <81fdd98f-229a-3e88-d551-e9dd68e566f4@yahoo.com>
References: <81fdd98f-229a-3e88-d551-e9dd68e566f4.ref@yahoo.com>
 <81fdd98f-229a-3e88-d551-e9dd68e566f4@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SJ0PR14MB46135EE21BF3D1857FC305DCFA999@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>

Bill,

Following.

I replaced the pan gasket on my TR4A about a year ago. I carefully leveled the mating surface using a dolly then a file, new gasket with Permatex #2, and actually used a in-lb torque wrench. Before it leaked moderately from the pan-to-block join. Now it leaks slooowly, accumulating a drop at almost every bolt head, even the bolts that don?t pass into the interior of the engine. It?s frustrating because I?ve managed to solve every other leak.

Cliff


Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: William Brewer<mailto:billbrewer59 at yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2022 8:19 PM
To: Triumph List<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage

     I have been trying to get the oil pan to quit being so leaky for
over 30 years and two engine rebuilds now. I made sure that the bolt
holes in the pan are lower than the mounting surface. I check the pan
fit with a feeler gauge with no gasket. I get everything cleaned off. I
have tried Permatex, Aviation Permatex and Hylomar Blue. I have used the
recommended torques. Still slowly seeping and dripping over time. It
seems worse in the front that the rear and no the front aluminum sealing
block isn't stripped out.

      I have family members asking me not to bring the TR3 and Morgan
over to their houses because of the amount of drips.

      I have looking over the "Triumph Experience" website and it looks
like most owners there have thrown their hands up and given up. Either
that or the ones that say that they are drip free probably haven't
driven their cars much.

      I've considered CNC'ing a 3/8" steel mounting flange, welding that
to the top of the oil sump (the weld would seal on the inside) and then
torquing that sonofabitch down tight with permatex on it. No more
worrying about flange distortion.

      I've also considered making a sheet metal "catch box" that would
mount under the pan and completely enclose it to catch drips. It could
be held on with 4 bolts and removed/cleaned out at oil changes. I should
make a long aluminum drip pan that goes under the sump, rear seal and
transmission.

      Anyone ever get there TR2/3/4 oil pans to stay drip free?

      -Bill Brewer

      Morro Bay, CA

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at outlook.com

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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Fri Jul 29 09:26:43 2022
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 08:26:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] valve ticking
In-Reply-To: <A13EB7E6-5FD6-4B6D-8421-805EF25943CA@cox.net>
References: <A13EB7E6-5FD6-4B6D-8421-805EF25943CA@cox.net>
Message-ID: <779410932.190194.1659108403809@connect.xfinity.com>

It is common for some rocker arms to wear heavily, (do to the hardness factor variation) where they touch the valve tip.  So, an accurate valve adjustment is nearly impossible.  You'd have to have a very slim feeler gauge to adjust them correctly.  Basically the standard feeler gauge will bridge the wear area of the rocker and not allow proper measurement.  
Dave H. 

> On 07/28/2022 4:53 PM Frank Magnusson <fmags at cox.net> wrote:
> 
>  
> Hi David,
> 
> It could be several things.  Some light ticking is normal.  
> You might try an oil additive.  I?ve used Marvel Mystery oil with every oil chnage for many years and I first started using it after I had a sticking valve on a Chevy Impala at the suggestion of a mechanic and it freed that sticking valve right up.  I?ve used it ever since.
> It could also be your valves needing adjustment, but it sounds like you?ve done that.  You might recheck it to make sure that an adjustment nut didn?t come loose.
> Lastly, pull the valve cover off and make sure that you dont have a broken valve spring.
>  I had a light valve ticking on my GT6, which sounded different than usual and it turned out to be a broken valve spring.  
> Hope this helps,
> Frank
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net

From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Jul 29 10:55:01 2022
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 16:55:01 +0000
Subject: [TR] valve ticking
In-Reply-To: <779410932.190194.1659108403809@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <A13EB7E6-5FD6-4B6D-8421-805EF25943CA@cox.net>
 <779410932.190194.1659108403809@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <5f0f6f84f1fc45c0a55f4d109db75e59@ranteer.com>

Something to check:  if you tighten the valve cover too much it will bend it down to where the rockers hit it

From dlhogye at comcast.net  Fri Jul 29 12:55:56 2022
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 11:55:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
In-Reply-To: <SJ0PR14MB46135EE21BF3D1857FC305DCFA999@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
References: <81fdd98f-229a-3e88-d551-e9dd68e566f4.ref@yahoo.com>
 <81fdd98f-229a-3e88-d551-e9dd68e566f4@yahoo.com>
 <SJ0PR14MB46135EE21BF3D1857FC305DCFA999@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <852128284.86557.1659120956064@connect.xfinity.com>

I too have had difficulty making a leak free engine on my street/race TR3.  I also had an oil drop on almost every pan bolt head.  I resealed the pan a couple times finding that the sealant had almost no adhesion to the aluminum filler block in front.  So I thought that where the leak was coming from.  I think I tried both the gray and black Permatex.  After pulling the engine for a refresh, I found that the oil leak was most likely coming from between the engine mount plate and the block.  I had used the red spray-on High Tack sealant on that gasket.  The gasket peeled cleanly off the block and plate and was saturated with oil.  Oil never dripped from the pan or engine.  It was pushed back while in motion and always dripped off the trans bell housing.  I developed an easy to change, disposable shop towel hanger out of safety wire between the two lowest bell housing flywheel cover bolts and never had a drop of oil on the garage floor.  I changed the towel before a race weekend.  
One think I was happy to find, was that the rear main seal was definitely not leaking.  
If I find a photo of the oil diaper arrangement, I'll share it.
Dave H. 

>     On 07/29/2022 7:50 AM Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at outlook.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
>     Bill,
> 
> 
>     Following.
> 
> 
>     I replaced the pan gasket on my TR4A about a year ago. I carefully leveled the mating surface using a dolly then a file, new gasket with Permatex #2, and actually used a in-lb torque wrench. Before it leaked moderately from the pan-to-block join. Now it leaks slooowly, accumulating a drop at almost every bolt head, even the bolts that don?t pass into the interior of the engine. It?s frustrating because I?ve managed to solve every other leak.
> 
> 
>     Cliff
> 
> 
> 
>     Sent from Mail https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986 for Windows
> 
> 
>     From: William Brewer mailto:billbrewer59 at yahoo.com
>     Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2022 8:19 PM
>     To: Triumph List mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net
>     Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
> 
> 
>          I have been trying to get the oil pan to quit being so leaky for
>     over 30 years and two engine rebuilds now. I made sure that the bolt
>     holes in the pan are lower than the mounting surface. I check the pan
>     fit with a feeler gauge with no gasket. I get everything cleaned off. I
>     have tried Permatex, Aviation Permatex and Hylomar Blue. I have used the
>     recommended torques. Still slowly seeping and dripping over time. It
>     seems worse in the front that the rear and no the front aluminum sealing
>     block isn't stripped out.
> 
>           I have family members asking me not to bring the TR3 and Morgan
>     over to their houses because of the amount of drips.
> 
>           I have looking over the "Triumph Experience" website and it looks
>     like most owners there have thrown their hands up and given up. Either
>     that or the ones that say that they are drip free probably haven't
>     driven their cars much.
> 
>           I've considered CNC'ing a 3/8" steel mounting flange, welding that
>     to the top of the oil sump (the weld would seal on the inside) and then
>     torquing that sonofabitch down tight with permatex on it. No more
>     worrying about flange distortion.
> 
>           I've also considered making a sheet metal "catch box" that would
>     mount under the pan and completely enclose it to catch drips. It could
>     be held on with 4 bolts and removed/cleaned out at oil changes. I should
>     make a long aluminum drip pan that goes under the sump, rear seal and
>     transmission.
> 
>           Anyone ever get there TR2/3/4 oil pans to stay drip free?
> 
>           -Bill Brewer
> 
>           Morro Bay, CA
> 
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at outlook.com http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at outlook.com
> 
> 
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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> 
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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Fri Jul 29 13:16:26 2022
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 12:16:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
In-Reply-To: <SJ0PR14MB46135EE21BF3D1857FC305DCFA999@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
References: <81fdd98f-229a-3e88-d551-e9dd68e566f4.ref@yahoo.com>
 <81fdd98f-229a-3e88-d551-e9dd68e566f4@yahoo.com>
 <SJ0PR14MB46135EE21BF3D1857FC305DCFA999@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <738834882.86930.1659122186212@connect.xfinity.com>

There's the oil diaper that I devised.  
This eliminated oil from the front of the engine ever making it to the ground.
I imagine that other engine and trans input shaft seal leaks could reliably be captured this way.
Dave H. 

>     On 07/29/2022 7:50 AM Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at outlook.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
>     Bill,
> 
> 
>     Following.
> 
> 
>     I replaced the pan gasket on my TR4A about a year ago. I carefully leveled the mating surface using a dolly then a file, new gasket with Permatex #2, and actually used a in-lb torque wrench. Before it leaked moderately from the pan-to-block join. Now it leaks slooowly, accumulating a drop at almost every bolt head, even the bolts that don?t pass into the interior of the engine. It?s frustrating because I?ve managed to solve every other leak.
> 
> 
>     Cliff
> 
> 
> 
>     Sent from Mail https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986 for Windows
> 
> 
>     From: William Brewer mailto:billbrewer59 at yahoo.com
>     Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2022 8:19 PM
>     To: Triumph List mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net
>     Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
> 
> 
>          I have been trying to get the oil pan to quit being so leaky for
>     over 30 years and two engine rebuilds now. I made sure that the bolt
>     holes in the pan are lower than the mounting surface. I check the pan
>     fit with a feeler gauge with no gasket. I get everything cleaned off. I
>     have tried Permatex, Aviation Permatex and Hylomar Blue. I have used the
>     recommended torques. Still slowly seeping and dripping over time. It
>     seems worse in the front that the rear and no the front aluminum sealing
>     block isn't stripped out.
> 
>           I have family members asking me not to bring the TR3 and Morgan
>     over to their houses because of the amount of drips.
> 
>           I have looking over the "Triumph Experience" website and it looks
>     like most owners there have thrown their hands up and given up. Either
>     that or the ones that say that they are drip free probably haven't
>     driven their cars much.
> 
>           I've considered CNC'ing a 3/8" steel mounting flange, welding that
>     to the top of the oil sump (the weld would seal on the inside) and then
>     torquing that sonofabitch down tight with permatex on it. No more
>     worrying about flange distortion.
> 
>           I've also considered making a sheet metal "catch box" that would
>     mount under the pan and completely enclose it to catch drips. It could
>     be held on with 4 bolts and removed/cleaned out at oil changes. I should
>     make a long aluminum drip pan that goes under the sump, rear seal and
>     transmission.
> 
>           Anyone ever get there TR2/3/4 oil pans to stay drip free?
> 
>           -Bill Brewer
> 
>           Morro Bay, CA
> 
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at outlook.com http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at outlook.com
> 
> 
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net
> 
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From cak at dimebank.com  Fri Jul 29 13:53:11 2022
From: cak at dimebank.com (Christopher A Kantarjiev)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 12:53:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Valve ticking
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1659117602.14407.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1659117602.14407.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <eb122f64-6ad2-fd3e-58b4-8b54b96e94a3@dimebank.com>

On 7/29/22 11:00 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>   You'd have to have a very slim feeler gauge to adjust them correctly.

Indeed. I have a feeler gauge set that is round wires rather than flat 
blades, and it makes this measurement a lot easier. But if your rocker 
arm tips are wearing unevenly, you've probably gone through the hardened 
surface (and might also be getting wear on the bushing that you can't 
see) ... so it might be time for a rebuild. More about that in a second ...

I use a tool called Gunson Clik-Adjust to set valve clearances, because 
it takes the entire wear of the system into account. Rather than 
measuring only the clearance at the tip, it works from the point where 
the entire rocker arm system is tight against the valve stem and then 
backs out in a controlled fashion. It seemed hokey, but it works quite well.

When I first got my TR4A, it had really low oil pressure. I did a bunch 
of work on the bottom end, to little effect. Someone suggested the 
rockers - the shaft and bushings were *very* worn to the point that much 
of my oil pressure was disappearing there. I sent the assembly off to 
Rocker Arm Specialists in Northern California; they transformed my worn 
out rocker train into a thing of beauty. I sent them a lot of work over 
the years (and sent a lot of others their way). Sadly, the proprietor 
sold the business in order to retire, and the new owners didn't make a 
go of it ... but it appears that they're back!

http://www.rockerarms.com/pages/about.html

From jhassall at gmail.com  Fri Jul 29 14:18:12 2022
From: jhassall at gmail.com (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 16:18:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
In-Reply-To: <852128284.86557.1659120956064@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <81fdd98f-229a-3e88-d551-e9dd68e566f4.ref@yahoo.com>
 <81fdd98f-229a-3e88-d551-e9dd68e566f4@yahoo.com>
 <SJ0PR14MB46135EE21BF3D1857FC305DCFA999@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
 <852128284.86557.1659120956064@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <CAO=iLWYH_v7yXm6pLjbkRSkj1VbxBUjcT5ru=VAMXNDp+a1nOg@mail.gmail.com>

If locating the leak is difficult, you might try white baking flour or oil
dye.  The dye fluoresces under UV light.

hth

jim

On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 3:58 PM DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:

> I too have had difficulty making a leak free engine on my street/race
> TR3.  I also had an oil drop on almost every pan bolt head.  I resealed the
> pan a couple times finding that the sealant had almost no adhesion to the
> aluminum filler block in front.  So I thought that where the leak was
> coming from.  I think I tried both the gray and black Permatex.  After
> pulling the engine for a refresh, I found that the oil leak was most likely
> coming from between the engine mount plate and the block.  I had used the
> red spray-on High Tack sealant on that gasket.  The gasket peeled cleanly
> off the block and plate and was saturated with oil.  Oil never dripped from
> the pan or engine.  It was pushed back while in motion and always dripped
> off the trans bell housing.  I developed an easy to change, disposable shop
> towel hanger out of safety wire between the two lowest bell housing
> flywheel cover bolts and never had a drop of oil on the garage floor.  I
> changed the towel before a race weekend.
> One think I was happy to find, was that the rear main seal was definitely
> not leaking.
> If I find a photo of the oil diaper arrangement, I'll share it.
> Dave H.
>
> On 07/29/2022 7:50 AM Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at outlook.com> wrote:
>
>
> Bill,
>
>
> Following.
>
>
> I replaced the pan gasket on my TR4A about a year ago. I carefully leveled
> the mating surface using a dolly then a file, new gasket with Permatex #2,
> and actually used a in-lb torque wrench. Before it leaked moderately from
> the pan-to-block join. Now it leaks slooowly, accumulating a drop at almost
> every bolt head, even the bolts that don?t pass into the interior of the
> engine. It?s frustrating because I?ve managed to solve every other leak.
>
>
> Cliff
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows
>
>
> *From: *William Brewer <billbrewer59 at yahoo.com>
> *Sent: *Thursday, July 28, 2022 8:19 PM
> *To: *Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
>
>
>      I have been trying to get the oil pan to quit being so leaky for
> over 30 years and two engine rebuilds now. I made sure that the bolt
> holes in the pan are lower than the mounting surface. I check the pan
> fit with a feeler gauge with no gasket. I get everything cleaned off. I
> have tried Permatex, Aviation Permatex and Hylomar Blue. I have used the
> recommended torques. Still slowly seeping and dripping over time. It
> seems worse in the front that the rear and no the front aluminum sealing
> block isn't stripped out.
>
>       I have family members asking me not to bring the TR3 and Morgan
> over to their houses because of the amount of drips.
>
>       I have looking over the "Triumph Experience" website and it looks
> like most owners there have thrown their hands up and given up. Either
> that or the ones that say that they are drip free probably haven't
> driven their cars much.
>
>       I've considered CNC'ing a 3/8" steel mounting flange, welding that
> to the top of the oil sump (the weld would seal on the inside) and then
> torquing that sonofabitch down tight with permatex on it. No more
> worrying about flange distortion.
>
>       I've also considered making a sheet metal "catch box" that would
> mount under the pan and completely enclose it to catch drips. It could
> be held on with 4 bolts and removed/cleaned out at oil changes. I should
> make a long aluminum drip pan that goes under the sump, rear seal and
> transmission.
>
>       Anyone ever get there TR2/3/4 oil pans to stay drip free?
>
>       -Bill Brewer
>
>       Morro Bay, CA
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at outlook.com
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jhassall at gmail.com
>


-- 
jim  W4BEA

The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are
willing to work and give to those who would not.
Thomas Jefferson

I sometimes feel bad for the smart people - being simple-minded and easily
entertained is totally the way to go! ;-)
J. Stoll
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From bschirano1 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 29 14:55:11 2022
From: bschirano1 at gmail.com (Brian Schirano)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 16:55:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Oil Pan Leakage
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1659117602.14407.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1659117602.14407.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAG9YvYNiFUHsL8Mnt3zBk4z1_Tnq_UxEQM=uyKD6ZHhtLYoC_g@mail.gmail.com>

Hello
I have not seen anyone mention internal engine pressures. I had exactly the
same problem on my GT6 after a rebuild. It was suggested to me the engine
needed better venting, excess pressure was *pushing* the oil out. For
example, replacing the oil fill cap on the valve cover with a vented style,
or in my case a larger vent hose going to a catch can. I had an advantage
that I had an electric fuel pump and could pick up a vent line from the
fuel pump blanking plate as well. In the end these fixes solved the problem
without changing any gaskets. That said, someone did mention the valve
cover leaking, I don't use one but am told the silicone gaskets seal better
than the cork.
Cheers
Brian


On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 2:26 PM <triumphs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
>         triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>         triumphs-request at autox.team.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>         triumphs-owner at autox.team.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. TR3 Oil Pan Leakage (William Brewer)
>    2. Re: valve ticking (Frank Magnusson)
>    3. Re: TR3 Oil Pan Leakage (Joel Justin)
>    4. Re: TR3 Oil Pan Leakage (bill beecher)
>    5. Re: TR3 Oil Pan Leakage (Cliff Hansen)
>    6. Re: valve ticking (DAVE HOGYE)
>    7. Re: valve ticking (dave northrup)
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: William Brewer <billbrewer59 at yahoo.com>
> To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2022 13:11:22 -0700
> Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
>       I have been trying to get the oil pan to quit being so leaky for
> over 30 years and two engine rebuilds now. I made sure that the bolt
> holes in the pan are lower than the mounting surface. I check the pan
> fit with a feeler gauge with no gasket. I get everything cleaned off. I
> have tried Permatex, Aviation Permatex and Hylomar Blue. I have used the
> recommended torques. Still slowly seeping and dripping over time. It
> seems worse in the front that the rear and no the front aluminum sealing
> block isn't stripped out.
>
>       I have family members asking me not to bring the TR3 and Morgan
> over to their houses because of the amount of drips.
>
>       I have looking over the "Triumph Experience" website and it looks
> like most owners there have thrown their hands up and given up. Either
> that or the ones that say that they are drip free probably haven't
> driven their cars much.
>
>       I've considered CNC'ing a 3/8" steel mounting flange, welding that
> to the top of the oil sump (the weld would seal on the inside) and then
> torquing that sonofabitch down tight with permatex on it. No more
> worrying about flange distortion.
>
>       I've also considered making a sheet metal "catch box" that would
> mount under the pan and completely enclose it to catch drips. It could
> be held on with 4 bolts and removed/cleaned out at oil changes. I should
> make a long aluminum drip pan that goes under the sump, rear seal and
> transmission.
>
>       Anyone ever get there TR2/3/4 oil pans to stay drip free?
>
>       -Bill Brewer
>
>       Morro Bay, CA
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Frank Magnusson <fmags at cox.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2022 18:53:28 -0500
> Subject: Re: [TR] valve ticking
> Hi David,
>
> It could be several things.  Some light ticking is normal.
> You might try an oil additive.  I?ve used Marvel Mystery oil with every
> oil chnage for many years and I first started using it after I had a
> sticking valve on a Chevy Impala at the suggestion of a mechanic and it
> freed that sticking valve right up.  I?ve used it ever since.
> It could also be your valves needing adjustment, but it sounds like you?ve
> done that.  You might recheck it to make sure that an adjustment nut didn?t
> come loose.
> Lastly, pull the valve cover off and make sure that you dont have a broken
> valve spring.
>  I had a light valve ticking on my GT6, which sounded different than usual
> and it turned out to be a broken valve spring.
> Hope this helps,
> Frank
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Joel Justin <j_bar_j at hotmail.com>
> To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2022 23:53:57 +0000
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
>
> Bill,
>
>
>
> If it?s leaking from the front, it?s quite likely it?s not the oil pan but
> rather the front engine plate. While it?s something like 3/16? steel, they
> can suffer from over-torquing and warp. Even though there?s lots of bolts,
> seeps between them happens. Given the plate ends where the oil pan begins,
> it?s pretty hart to distinguish pan vs. plate. If you clean things up
> REALLY well, then run it for a short time, you might be able to see which
> it is. Unfortunately, it?s pretty much an engine out to replace, unless you
> try to support the front of the engine and try to remove it in situ. You
> could try using lots of Permatex silicone sealer when you reassemble, or
> buy a new front plate (available new in aluminum). If you convince yourself
> it?s the pan, you could also purchase an aluminum one. It has a thick flat
> block mating surface. Good luck!
>
>
>
> Joel Justin?
>
> ?54 TR2
>
> ?58 10 Estate
>
> ?60 TR3A
>
> ?61 TR4
>
> ?65 2000 Saloon
>
> ?71 GT6
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com>
> To: Joel Justin <j_bar_j at hotmail.com>
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Bcc:
> Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 08:39:28 -0500
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
> Good thought Joel. I don?t have any leak issues but you make a good
> point.  Also could be the timing cover, which suffers the same ills as the
> sump pan.
> Best regards,
> Bill
> TS30800L
>
> ?Do your best, and let the sparrows twitter?  Lofty
>
> On Jul 28, 2022, at 11:21 PM, Joel Justin <j_bar_j at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
>
> Bill,
>
>
>
> If it?s leaking from the front, it?s quite likely it?s not the oil pan but
> rather the front engine plate. While it?s something like 3/16? steel, they
> can suffer from over-torquing and warp. Even though there?s lots of bolts,
> seeps between them happens. Given the plate ends where the oil pan begins,
> it?s pretty hart to distinguish pan vs. plate. If you clean things up
> REALLY well, then run it for a short time, you might be able to see which
> it is. Unfortunately, it?s pretty much an engine out to replace, unless you
> try to support the front of the engine and try to remove it in situ. You
> could try using lots of Permatex silicone sealer when you reassemble, or
> buy a new front plate (available new in aluminum). If you convince yourself
> it?s the pan, you could also purchase an aluminum one. It has a thick flat
> block mating surface. Good luck!
>
>
>
> Joel Justin?
>
> ?54 TR2
>
> ?58 10 Estate
>
> ?60 TR3A
>
> ?61 TR4
>
> ?65 2000 Saloon
>
> ?71 GT6
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at outlook.com>
> To: William Brewer <billbrewer59 at yahoo.com>, Triumph List <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 14:50:59 +0000
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
>
> Bill,
>
>
>
> Following.
>
>
>
> I replaced the pan gasket on my TR4A about a year ago. I carefully leveled
> the mating surface using a dolly then a file, new gasket with Permatex #2,
> and actually used a in-lb torque wrench. Before it leaked moderately from
> the pan-to-block join. Now it leaks slooowly, accumulating a drop at almost
> every bolt head, even the bolts that don?t pass into the interior of the
> engine. It?s frustrating because I?ve managed to solve every other leak.
>
>
>
> Cliff
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows
>
>
>
> *From: *William Brewer <billbrewer59 at yahoo.com>
> *Sent: *Thursday, July 28, 2022 8:19 PM
> *To: *Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
>
>
>
>      I have been trying to get the oil pan to quit being so leaky for
> over 30 years and two engine rebuilds now. I made sure that the bolt
> holes in the pan are lower than the mounting surface. I check the pan
> fit with a feeler gauge with no gasket. I get everything cleaned off. I
> have tried Permatex, Aviation Permatex and Hylomar Blue. I have used the
> recommended torques. Still slowly seeping and dripping over time. It
> seems worse in the front that the rear and no the front aluminum sealing
> block isn't stripped out.
>
>       I have family members asking me not to bring the TR3 and Morgan
> over to their houses because of the amount of drips.
>
>       I have looking over the "Triumph Experience" website and it looks
> like most owners there have thrown their hands up and given up. Either
> that or the ones that say that they are drip free probably haven't
> driven their cars much.
>
>       I've considered CNC'ing a 3/8" steel mounting flange, welding that
> to the top of the oil sump (the weld would seal on the inside) and then
> torquing that sonofabitch down tight with permatex on it. No more
> worrying about flange distortion.
>
>       I've also considered making a sheet metal "catch box" that would
> mount under the pan and completely enclose it to catch drips. It could
> be held on with 4 bolts and removed/cleaned out at oil changes. I should
> make a long aluminum drip pan that goes under the sump, rear seal and
> transmission.
>
>       Anyone ever get there TR2/3/4 oil pans to stay drip free?
>
>       -Bill Brewer
>
>       Morro Bay, CA
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at outlook.com
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net>
> To: Frank Magnusson <fmags at cox.net>, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 08:26:43 -0700 (PDT)
> Subject: Re: [TR] valve ticking
> It is common for some rocker arms to wear heavily, (do to the hardness
> factor variation) where they touch the valve tip.  So, an accurate valve
> adjustment is nearly impossible.  You'd have to have a very slim feeler
> gauge to adjust them correctly.  Basically the standard feeler gauge will
> bridge the wear area of the rocker and not allow proper measurement.
> Dave H.
>
> > On 07/28/2022 4:53 PM Frank Magnusson <fmags at cox.net> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi David,
> >
> > It could be several things.  Some light ticking is normal.
> > You might try an oil additive.  I?ve used Marvel Mystery oil with every
> oil chnage for many years and I first started using it after I had a
> sticking valve on a Chevy Impala at the suggestion of a mechanic and it
> freed that sticking valve right up.  I?ve used it ever since.
> > It could also be your valves needing adjustment, but it sounds like
> you?ve done that.  You might recheck it to make sure that an adjustment nut
> didn?t come loose.
> > Lastly, pull the valve cover off and make sure that you dont have a
> broken valve spring.
> >  I had a light valve ticking on my GT6, which sounded different than
> usual and it turned out to be a broken valve spring.
> > Hope this helps,
> > Frank
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 16:55:01 +0000
> Subject: Re: [TR] valve ticking
> Something to check:  if you tighten the valve cover too much it will bend
> it down to where the rockers hit it
> _______________________________________________
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>


-- 
Brian Schirano
585-305-0349
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From cliff_hansen at outlook.com  Fri Jul 29 16:22:56 2022
From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 22:22:56 +0000
Subject: [TR] Valve ticking
In-Reply-To: <eb122f64-6ad2-fd3e-58b4-8b54b96e94a3@dimebank.com>
References: <mailman.5.1659117602.14407.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <eb122f64-6ad2-fd3e-58b4-8b54b96e94a3@dimebank.com>
Message-ID: <SJ0PR14MB46136BD1D865959B2F3FB5CCFA999@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>

Do you think a length of 30 gauge steel wire would do as a feeler gauge? It?s nominally 0.010? diameter.

Cliff


Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: Christopher A Kantarjiev<mailto:cak at dimebank.com>
Sent: Friday, July 29, 2022 3:39 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Valve ticking

On 7/29/22 11:00 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>   You'd have to have a very slim feeler gauge to adjust them correctly.

Indeed. I have a feeler gauge set that is round wires rather than flat
blades, and it makes this measurement a lot easier. But if your rocker
arm tips are wearing unevenly, you've probably gone through the hardened
surface (and might also be getting wear on the bushing that you can't
see) ... so it might be time for a rebuild. More about that in a second ...

I use a tool called Gunson Clik-Adjust to set valve clearances, because
it takes the entire wear of the system into account. Rather than
measuring only the clearance at the tip, it works from the point where
the entire rocker arm system is tight against the valve stem and then
backs out in a controlled fashion. It seemed hokey, but it works quite well.

When I first got my TR4A, it had really low oil pressure. I did a bunch
of work on the bottom end, to little effect. Someone suggested the
rockers - the shaft and bushings were *very* worn to the point that much
of my oil pressure was disappearing there. I sent the assembly off to
Rocker Arm Specialists in Northern California; they transformed my worn
out rocker train into a thing of beauty. I sent them a lot of work over
the years (and sent a lot of others their way). Sadly, the proprietor
sold the business in order to retire, and the new owners didn't make a
go of it ... but it appears that they're back!

http://www.rockerarms.com/pages/about.html
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at outlook.com

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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Fri Jul 29 16:32:50 2022
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 15:32:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Valve ticking
In-Reply-To: <eb122f64-6ad2-fd3e-58b4-8b54b96e94a3@dimebank.com>
References: <mailman.5.1659117602.14407.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <eb122f64-6ad2-fd3e-58b4-8b54b96e94a3@dimebank.com>
Message-ID: <784409714.200347.1659133970992@connect.xfinity.com>

I recently went through a process of measuring the full opening capability of multiple sets of used rocker arms in order to put sets together that open the valves the same and as far as possible for competition use.  I didn't bother with any that had excessively worn tips or bushings.  I found .026" difference in the full open position.  That's a lot of variation from the factory.  I also found similar variation in a new set of rockers that I bought from a west coast distributor.  Obviously the manufacturing process is not very accurate.  The sets are re-bushed and then checked again.
I remove excess material from the rockers and polish them.  
Dave H.

> On 07/29/2022 12:53 PM Christopher A Kantarjiev <cak at dimebank.com> wrote:
> 
>  
> On 7/29/22 11:00 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> >   You'd have to have a very slim feeler gauge to adjust them correctly.
> 
> Indeed. I have a feeler gauge set that is round wires rather than flat 
> blades, and it makes this measurement a lot easier. But if your rocker 
> arm tips are wearing unevenly, you've probably gone through the hardened 
> surface (and might also be getting wear on the bushing that you can't 
> see) ... so it might be time for a rebuild. More about that in a second ...
> 
> I use a tool called Gunson Clik-Adjust to set valve clearances, because 
> it takes the entire wear of the system into account. Rather than 
> measuring only the clearance at the tip, it works from the point where 
> the entire rocker arm system is tight against the valve stem and then 
> backs out in a controlled fashion. It seemed hokey, but it works quite well.
> 
> When I first got my TR4A, it had really low oil pressure. I did a bunch 
> of work on the bottom end, to little effect. Someone suggested the 
> rockers - the shaft and bushings were *very* worn to the point that much 
> of my oil pressure was disappearing there. I sent the assembly off to 
> Rocker Arm Specialists in Northern California; they transformed my worn 
> out rocker train into a thing of beauty. I sent them a lot of work over 
> the years (and sent a lot of others their way). Sadly, the proprietor 
> sold the business in order to retire, and the new owners didn't make a 
> go of it ... but it appears that they're back!
> 
> http://www.rockerarms.com/pages/about.html
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 29 17:17:38 2022
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 18:17:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Valve ticking
In-Reply-To: <SJ0PR14MB46136BD1D865959B2F3FB5CCFA999@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
References: <SJ0PR14MB46136BD1D865959B2F3FB5CCFA999@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <4B3B8C66-2340-4139-81DD-3996F4B7C127@yahoo.com>

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From staffel at comcast.net  Fri Jul 29 21:48:31 2022
From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 23:48:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3/4 Oil Pan Timing chain cover Oil Leakage  Resolution
Message-ID: HdSqoly5oIvO2HdSvoFNiq.1659152926.66a56778ab2cfbf63e7b536c4a95f471.MISSINGID@comcast.net

Hi Bill!?Many decades ago I got rid of the original style gaskets and took a tip from 80s GM pan gaskets which came standard with a thin RTV bead in the center.. 90,000 + Mike's on my Fiero 2M6 and NEVER a drip.Now the TR3/4 blocks have an additional stupid issue: the block oil pan? bolt holes go straight into the crankcase. So even if the pan is fully sealed- oil spirals down the threads of ALL of the pan retaining bolts.?Same with the 46 bolts on my E Type V12 oil pan.The solution is Super clean each of the bolt threads in the block several times with brake cleaner on rounds of Q tips. Add just RTV to the block & pan,? the threads & the Bolts. Install all 4 turns only. Then when all bolts in- tighten center out criss cross like you'd sequence a cylinder head.? So when the RTV cures- you have a complete seal.Timing cover leaks- same thing. Super Clean everything. Use Hi temp RTV on sealing surfaces, bolts & threads.?Also don't over Torque the bolts. Let the RTV CURE &do its job.The only leak in 22 years since my last engine Rebuild? is from the Rear main seal.I also painted my oil pan Hammerred Silver so I coukd initially monitor for weeps.20-50 Brad-Penn + STP does wonders minimizing the 'British Perfume that makes its way to the exhaust pipe.?Sherman D Taffel?TR4 CT50054LColumbia MD4 Hags, 5 Jensens, Dozen+ AmericanSent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
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