From artwmcewen at gmail.com  Wed Nov  3 11:03:02 2021
From: artwmcewen at gmail.com (Art McEwen)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2021 13:03:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear main seal w/ engine in
Message-ID: <6EE16773-3393-455E-82EB-B5119F9EF4E8@gmail.com>

Can a vitron seal be installed while the engine is in place if the gearbox is out?

When I put the car up for winter storage I pulled the gearbox for a rebuild but I quickly realized most of the oil leakage was from the rear main crank seal.  However the winter storage area is gravel beside the garage without room to get an engine lift to the front (or maneuver it well on gravel).  Alternatively, I?d have to push the car up hill into the garage (all my car friends are distant and/or old).

Is it wishful thinking to contemplate pulling the pan and loosening the crank bolts to install the vitron upgraded seal from underneath?

Thanks,

Art

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Nov  3 11:09:38 2021
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2021 17:09:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear main seal w/ engine in
In-Reply-To: <6EE16773-3393-455E-82EB-B5119F9EF4E8@gmail.com>
References: <6EE16773-3393-455E-82EB-B5119F9EF4E8@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <171468305.196411.1635959378205@mail.yahoo.com>

 you would have to drop the crank a long way Art.
maybe as much as 4/5 inches
Frank
    On Wednesday, November 3, 2021, 10:03:31 AM PDT, Art McEwen <artwmcewen at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Can a vitron seal be installed while the engine is in place if the gearbox is out?

When I put the car up for winter storage I pulled the gearbox for a rebuild but I quickly realized most of the oil leakage was from the rear main crank seal.? However the winter storage area is gravel beside the garage without room to get an engine lift to the front (or maneuver it well on gravel).? Alternatively, I?d have to push the car up hill into the garage (all my car friends are distant and/or old).

Is it wishful thinking to contemplate pulling the pan and loosening the crank bolts to install the vitron upgraded seal from underneath?

Thanks,

Art
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com  Wed Nov  3 11:18:40 2021
From: jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com (jerry van vlack)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2021 13:18:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear main seal w/ engine in
In-Reply-To: <6EE16773-3393-455E-82EB-B5119F9EF4E8@gmail.com>
References: <6EE16773-3393-455E-82EB-B5119F9EF4E8@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A5FA3433-CBCE-4384-8EB8-A41E21BC25A4@hxcore.ol>

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From grglmn at gmail.com  Wed Nov  3 11:35:12 2021
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2021 12:35:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gear Reduction Starter TR250
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aY0MXyNpxNMMbi5t10EBSbXPoyqPGaxpeEkAMevuEEgqQ@mail.gmail.com>

I am shopping for one,

There is one that sells for $120 or so that appears to be made for British
cars, but is clocked wrong, non-adjustable, and doesn't fit so that is out.

There is a Wosp starter that a number of people sell

There is another unit from British Starters that looks to have adjustable
clocking

The second two sell for a out the same price, I am looking for weight loss
and reliability.  I suppose reliability first, but if both are reliable
then lighter matters.

Any thoughts or recommendations?

Thanks

Greg Lemon
68 TR250
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Wed Nov  3 11:48:23 2021
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2021 12:48:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear main seal w/ engine in
In-Reply-To: <A5FA3433-CBCE-4384-8EB8-A41E21BC25A4@hxcore.ol>
References: <A5FA3433-CBCE-4384-8EB8-A41E21BC25A4@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <BC6FDF18-BB2C-4A75-808B-1271BFC16D8F@yahoo.com>

I would agree with Jerry, can be done, more work, awkward working position.  I just did one of these last year with good results but the motor was out.   I would recommend Kas K?s book if only for the chapter that covers this seal.  
Bill

?Last night I saw upon the stair,
A little man who wasn't there,
He wasn't there again today
Oh, how I wish he'd go away?.... Mearns

On Nov 3, 2021, at 12:36 PM, jerry van vlack <jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com> wrote:

?
Art,
I suppose you could but it wouldn?t be easy and the results might disappoint. In that area in addition to the crank seal you must also carefully seal the rear bearing cap to block cavity. I have found that cavity is as much if not more of a leak path than the crank. The scroll type seal used on our cars is really quite good if set up properly by the work shop manual. But in my experience the cap to block seal cavity gets overlooked and I?ve seen significant leakage from a poor job with that area. Might be hard doing that from below. Many an engine rebuild has disappointed the owner because the cap to block is actually leaking but the crank seal gets the blame.
 
Just my 2 cents worth.
 
JVV
 
 
 
Sent from Mail for Windows
 
From: Art McEwen
Sent: Wednesday, November 3, 2021 1:03 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear main seal w/ engine in
 
Can a vitron seal be installed while the engine is in place if the gearbox is out?
 
When I put the car up for winter storage I pulled the gearbox for a rebuild but I quickly realized most of the oil leakage was from the rear main crank seal.  However the winter storage area is gravel beside the garage without room to get an engine lift to the front (or maneuver it well on gravel).  Alternatively, I?d have to push the car up hill into the garage (all my car friends are distant and/or old).
 
Is it wishful thinking to contemplate pulling the pan and loosening the crank bolts to install the vitron upgraded seal from underneath?
 
Thanks,
 
Art
** triumphs at autox.team.net **
 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com
 
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From ptegler at verizon.net  Wed Nov  3 12:15:10 2021
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2021 18:15:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Gear Reduction Starter TR250
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aY0MXyNpxNMMbi5t10EBSbXPoyqPGaxpeEkAMevuEEgqQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFtw3aY0MXyNpxNMMbi5t10EBSbXPoyqPGaxpeEkAMevuEEgqQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1296907916.202548.1635963311060@mail.yahoo.com>

doesn't the Trooper starter fit the TR series as well?https://www.britishcarforum.com/community/threads/isuzu-trooper-gear-reduction-starter-for-tr6-gt6.42210/

ptegler

-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Nov 3, 2021 1:35 pm
Subject: [TR] Gear Reduction Starter TR250

I am shopping for one,
There is one that sells for $120 or so that appears to be made for British cars, but is clocked wrong, non-adjustable, and doesn't fit so that is out.
There is a Wosp starter that a number of people sell
There is another unit from British Starters that looks to have adjustable clocking
The second two sell for a out the same price, I am looking for weight loss and reliability.? I suppose reliability first, but if both are reliable then lighter matters.
Any thoughts or recommendations?
Thanks
Greg Lemon68 TR250** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From cliff_hansen at outlook.com  Wed Nov  3 13:01:58 2021
From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2021 19:01:58 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear main seal w/ engine in
In-Reply-To: <171468305.196411.1635959378205@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <6EE16773-3393-455E-82EB-B5119F9EF4E8@gmail.com>
 <171468305.196411.1635959378205@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SJ0PR14MB4613802F4DD7FB8BBD7040FCFA8C9@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>

I think you?d have to remove the timing cover and timing chain to get the crankshaft to move that far.

My opinion ? it would be less work to pull the engine than to try to replace the rear seal on the car.

Cliff


Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: Frank Fisher<mailto:yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 3, 2021 11:10 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>; Art McEwen<mailto:artwmcewen at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A rear main seal w/ engine in

you would have to drop the crank a long way Art.

maybe as much as 4/5 inches

Frank

On Wednesday, November 3, 2021, 10:03:31 AM PDT, Art McEwen <artwmcewen at gmail.com> wrote:


Can a vitron seal be installed while the engine is in place if the gearbox is out?

When I put the car up for winter storage I pulled the gearbox for a rebuild but I quickly realized most of the oil leakage was from the rear main crank seal.  However the winter storage area is gravel beside the garage without room to get an engine lift to the front (or maneuver it well on gravel).  Alternatively, I?d have to push the car up hill into the garage (all my car friends are distant and/or old).

Is it wishful thinking to contemplate pulling the pan and loosening the crank bolts to install the vitron upgraded seal from underneath?

Thanks,

Art
** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs%20> http://www.team.net/archive

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From guy.huggins at icloud.com  Wed Nov  3 14:30:44 2021
From: guy.huggins at icloud.com (Guy Huggins)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2021 15:30:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Looking for radiator recommendations
Message-ID: <8D9F2B18-34EE-4653-AAB1-98B0C61B8281@icloud.com>

All,

I am exploring replacing the radiator in the Triumph with a new one that has holes for both a temp sensor (to switch on/off an electric fan), and a drain.
Has anyone an experienced recommendation?

Thanks in advance.


Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph





From darrellw360 at mac.com  Wed Nov  3 14:36:58 2021
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2021 13:36:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Looking for radiator recommendations
In-Reply-To: <8D9F2B18-34EE-4653-AAB1-98B0C61B8281@icloud.com>
References: <8D9F2B18-34EE-4653-AAB1-98B0C61B8281@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <E6197370-5DF2-4858-BBD0-0E4B890B857F@mac.com>


Hi Guy,

I have one from Wizard Cooling, it has both the bung for the temp switch and a drain.  I got mine with an electric fan installed with a nice aluminum bracket.  I got it probably over 10 years ago, so I don?t recall where I got it, nor can I vouch for current offerings.  But I?ve been happy with it.

-Darrell



> On Nov 3, 2021, at 1:30 PM, Guy Huggins <guy.huggins at icloud.com> wrote:
> 
> All,
> 
> I am exploring replacing the radiator in the Triumph with a new one that has holes for both a temp sensor (to switch on/off an electric fan), and a drain.
> Has anyone an experienced recommendation?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Guy D. Huggins
> 1965 Triumph TR4A
> CTC 63569LO
> 
> Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw360 at mac.com



-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

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From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Nov  3 14:45:16 2021
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2021 15:45:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gear Reduction Starter TR250
In-Reply-To: <1296907916.202548.1635963311060@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAFtw3aY0MXyNpxNMMbi5t10EBSbXPoyqPGaxpeEkAMevuEEgqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1296907916.202548.1635963311060@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001d01d7d0f3$b5879170$2096b450$@ranteer.com>

Talk to Ted Schumacher at TSI - TS Imported Automotive - British Car and Parts Sales Pandora, Ohio <http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/> 

 

Great products and a personal touch

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of ptegler at verizon.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 3, 2021 1:15 PM
To: grglmn at gmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Gear Reduction Starter TR250

 

doesn't the Trooper starter fit the TR series as well? 

https://www.britishcarforum.com/community/threads/isuzu-trooper-gear-reduction-starter-for-tr6-gt6.42210/


ptegler

-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Nov 3, 2021 1:35 pm
Subject: [TR] Gear Reduction Starter TR250

I am shopping for one, 

 

There is one that sells for $120 or so that appears to be made for British cars, but is clocked wrong, non-adjustable, and doesn't fit so that is out.

 

There is a Wosp starter that a number of people sell

 

There is another unit from British Starters that looks to have adjustable clocking

 

The second two sell for a out the same price, I am looking for weight loss and reliability.  I suppose reliability first, but if both are reliable then lighter matters.

 

Any thoughts or recommendations?

 

Thanks

 

Greg Lemon

68 TR250

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs> http://www.team.net/archive

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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Wed Nov  3 14:49:38 2021
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2021 16:49:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Looking for radiator recommendations
In-Reply-To: <E6197370-5DF2-4858-BBD0-0E4B890B857F@mac.com>
References: <8D9F2B18-34EE-4653-AAB1-98B0C61B8281@icloud.com>
 <E6197370-5DF2-4858-BBD0-0E4B890B857F@mac.com>
Message-ID: <00be01d7d0f4$5226ef80$f674ce80$@uprichard.net>

I bought a radiator from C, G and J Radiators in Alabama.  Came with a temp sensor, a wiring harness and an electric fan attached.  Has worked great for years.

 

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Darrell Walker
Sent: Wednesday, November 3, 2021 4:37 PM
To: Guy Huggins <guy.huggins at icloud.com>
Cc: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Looking for radiator recommendations

 

 

Hi Guy,

 

I have one from Wizard Cooling, it has both the bung for the temp switch and a drain.  I got mine with an electric fan installed with a nice aluminum bracket.  I got it probably over 10 years ago, so I don?t recall where I got it, nor can I vouch for current offerings.  But I?ve been happy with it.

 

-Darrell

 







On Nov 3, 2021, at 1:30 PM, Guy Huggins <guy.huggins at icloud.com <mailto:guy.huggins at icloud.com> > wrote:

 

All,

I am exploring replacing the radiator in the Triumph with a new one that has holes for both a temp sensor (to switch on/off an electric fan), and a drain.
Has anyone an experienced recommendation?

Thanks in advance.


Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph




** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw360 at mac.com

 

 

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA 

 

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From dconnitt at fuse.net  Wed Nov  3 15:42:15 2021
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2021 17:42:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Looking for radiator recommendations
In-Reply-To: <E6197370-5DF2-4858-BBD0-0E4B890B857F@mac.com>
References: <E6197370-5DF2-4858-BBD0-0E4B890B857F@mac.com>
Message-ID: <972E5D12-F0E7-4EC8-9958-C78C876796AF@fuse.net>

Hi Guy,
I installed a Wizard aluminum radiator in my TR4A and it has a bung for a temperature switch. Back when I was restoring the car, I had  purchased a stainless steel down pipe from RevingtonTR that had a bung for a temperature switch so that is an option you might consider. I ended up just installing a plug in the radiator for the temperature switch and using the one in the down pipe as that is the coolant exiting the engine.
I have had the Wizard radiator for a couple of years and it is working great so far. I can send you pictures if you want.
Dave Connitt 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 3, 2021, at 4:37 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> 
> Hi Guy,
> 
> I have one from Wizard Cooling, it has both the bung for the temp switch and a drain.  I got mine with an electric fan installed with a nice aluminum bracket.  I got it probably over 10 years ago, so I don?t recall where I got it, nor can I vouch for current offerings.  But I?ve been happy with it.
> 
> -Darrell
> 
> 
> 
>> On Nov 3, 2021, at 1:30 PM, Guy Huggins <guy.huggins at icloud.com> wrote:
>> 
>> All,
>> 
>> I am exploring replacing the radiator in the Triumph with a new one that has holes for both a temp sensor (to switch on/off an electric fan), and a drain.
>> Has anyone an experienced recommendation?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance.
>> 
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> 
>> Guy D. Huggins
>> 1965 Triumph TR4A
>> CTC 63569LO
>> 
>> Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw360 at mac.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Darrell Walker
> 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
> 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
> Vancouver, WA, USA
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net
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From artwmcewen at gmail.com  Wed Nov  3 18:18:15 2021
From: artwmcewen at gmail.com (Art McEwen)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2021 20:18:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear main seal w/ engine in
In-Reply-To: <SJ0PR14MB4613802F4DD7FB8BBD7040FCFA8C9@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
References: <SJ0PR14MB4613802F4DD7FB8BBD7040FCFA8C9@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <4C583A96-3CE9-4AC0-BCFF-513D43FC158D@gmail.com>

Thanks all, yeah reading the instructions further I guess it was wishful thinking.

Thanks

> On Nov 3, 2021, at 3:01 PM, Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at outlook.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I think you?d have to remove the timing cover and timing chain to get the crankshaft to move that far.
>  
> My opinion ? it would be less work to pull the engine than to try to replace the rear seal on the car.
>  
> Cliff
>  
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows
>  
> From: Frank Fisher
> Sent: Wednesday, November 3, 2021 11:10 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Art McEwen
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A rear main seal w/ engine in
>  
> you would have to drop the crank a long way Art.
>  
> maybe as much as 4/5 inches
>  
> Frank
>  
> On Wednesday, November 3, 2021, 10:03:31 AM PDT, Art McEwen <artwmcewen at gmail.com> wrote:
>  
>  
> Can a vitron seal be installed while the engine is in place if the gearbox is out?
>  
> When I put the car up for winter storage I pulled the gearbox for a rebuild but I quickly realized most of the oil leakage was from the rear main crank seal.  However the winter storage area is gravel beside the garage without room to get an engine lift to the front (or maneuver it well on gravel).  Alternatively, I?d have to push the car up hill into the garage (all my car friends are distant and/or old).
>  
> Is it wishful thinking to contemplate pulling the pan and loosening the crank bolts to install the vitron upgraded seal from underneath?
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Art
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>  
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>  
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>  
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From grglmn at gmail.com  Wed Nov  3 19:56:17 2021
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2021 20:56:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gear Reduction Starter TR250
In-Reply-To: <1296907916.202548.1635963311060@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAFtw3aY0MXyNpxNMMbi5t10EBSbXPoyqPGaxpeEkAMevuEEgqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1296907916.202548.1635963311060@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3abQENFWiJ3+xcy1H7zh5Vm74wSYEKF1oxgY418LAzF3Kw@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks, I can see the BCF page, but can't get the link to the more detailed
information to work

On Wed, Nov 3, 2021, 1:15 PM <ptegler at verizon.net> wrote:

> doesn't the Trooper starter fit the TR series as well?
>
> https://www.britishcarforum.com/community/threads/isuzu-trooper-gear-reduction-starter-for-tr6-gt6.42210/
>
> ptegler
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com>
> To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, Nov 3, 2021 1:35 pm
> Subject: [TR] Gear Reduction Starter TR250
>
> I am shopping for one,
>
> There is one that sells for $120 or so that appears to be made for British
> cars, but is clocked wrong, non-adjustable, and doesn't fit so that is out.
>
> There is a Wosp starter that a number of people sell
>
> There is another unit from British Starters that looks to have adjustable
> clocking
>
> The second two sell for a out the same price, I am looking for weight loss
> and reliability.  I suppose reliability first, but if both are reliable
> then lighter matters.
>
> Any thoughts or recommendations?
>
> Thanks
>
> Greg Lemon
> 68 TR250
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net
>
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From ptegler at verizon.net  Wed Nov  3 21:59:43 2021
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2021 23:59:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Gear Reduction Starter TR250
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3abQENFWiJ3+xcy1H7zh5Vm74wSYEKF1oxgY418LAzF3Kw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFtw3aY0MXyNpxNMMbi5t10EBSbXPoyqPGaxpeEkAMevuEEgqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1296907916.202548.1635963311060@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFtw3abQENFWiJ3+xcy1H7zh5Vm74wSYEKF1oxgY418LAzF3Kw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <e5cf39a1-51ab-7df5-9c33-155baba04bf1@verizon.net>

https://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/73gt6br_tropperstarter.htm

On 11/3/2021 9:56 PM, Greg Lemon wrote:
> Thanks, I can see the BCF page, but can't get the link to the more 
> detailed information to work
>
> On Wed, Nov 3, 2021, 1:15 PM <ptegler at verizon.net> wrote:
>
>     doesn't the Trooper starter fit the TR series as well?
>     https://www.britishcarforum.com/community/threads/isuzu-trooper-gear-reduction-starter-for-tr6-gt6.42210/
>
>     ptegler
>
>     -----Original Message-----
>     From: Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com>
>     To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>     Sent: Wed, Nov 3, 2021 1:35 pm
>     Subject: [TR] Gear Reduction Starter TR250
>
>     I am shopping for one,
>
>     There is one that sells for $120 or so that appears to be made for
>     British cars, but is clocked wrong, non-adjustable, and doesn't
>     fit so that is out.
>
>     There is a Wosp starter that a number of people sell
>
>     There is another unit from British Starters that looks to have
>     adjustable clocking
>
>     The second two sell for a out the same price, I am looking for
>     weight loss and reliability.? I suppose reliability first, but if
>     both are reliable then lighter matters.
>
>     Any thoughts or recommendations?
>
>     Thanks
>
>     Greg Lemon
>     68 TR250
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>     http://www.team.net/archive
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net
>
-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net   www.teglerizer.com
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From keithstewart at bell.net  Thu Nov  4 13:43:16 2021
From: keithstewart at bell.net (keithstewart at bell.net)
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2021 15:43:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Looking for radiator recommendations
In-Reply-To: <8D9F2B18-34EE-4653-AAB1-98B0C61B8281@icloud.com>
References: <8D9F2B18-34EE-4653-AAB1-98B0C61B8281@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <030d01d7d1b4$36ac9f00$a405dd00$@bell.net>

I also have had good results with the Wizard Cooling rad in various cars for
15 years or so. I have purchased them from TRF (taking advantage of sales)
and directly from Wizard Cooling. I have them in my TR3, TR4 and TR4A. I
purchased the one for the TR4A directly from Wizard and purchased the model
with the electric fan already attached. It includes the bung for the
temperature sensor. The first one I purchased for a TR4 came with the holes
in the mounting brackets in the wrong location. This was changed in the next
model I purchased for another TR4. Neither included a bung for the temp
sensor, but these are now included on the current models.


Keith Stewart
keithstewart at bell.net



-----Original Message-----
From: Guy Huggins <guy.huggins at icloud.com> 
Sent: November 3, 2021 4:31 PM
To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Looking for radiator recommendations

All,

I am exploring replacing the radiator in the Triumph with a new one that has
holes for both a temp sensor (to switch on/off an electric fan), and a
drain.
Has anyone an experienced recommendation?

Thanks in advance.


Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph







From artwmcewen at gmail.com  Sat Nov  6 14:14:31 2021
From: artwmcewen at gmail.com (Art McEwen)
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2021 16:14:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A gearbox main shaft end float
Message-ID: <B1A61F47-EE44-41D4-9C27-CAFB13FBDF30@gmail.com>

Overdrive is off for a rebuild, the gearbox visually looks ok and spins well but I?d like to at least measure the end float of the main shaft while they?re split.   I can find several rebuild guides that talk about the float of some of the components but not of the whole assembly.   Any advice?    

Also does the OD oil pump cam mate up directly with the rear bearing circlip of the gb or should there be some sort of washer in between?   There?s none in the diagram but it seems odd.

Thanks,

Art.

From guy.huggins at icloud.com  Mon Nov  8 14:41:07 2021
From: guy.huggins at icloud.com (Guy Huggins)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2021 15:41:07 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A Pulley Dimensions
Message-ID: <89B5ABD9-F206-4294-89E2-3389134F155B@icloud.com>

Listers,

Does anyone know the dimensions of the two-part crankshaft pulley for the TR4A?
Mine is attached, and my calipers won?t open enough to measure the diameter.

I am looking to determine the circumference, in order to make timing marks for when I start putting everything back together after the head gasket work.


Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO




From forzion7 at gmail.com  Mon Nov  8 17:48:03 2021
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2021 19:48:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A Pulley Dimensions
In-Reply-To: <89B5ABD9-F206-4294-89E2-3389134F155B@icloud.com>
References: <89B5ABD9-F206-4294-89E2-3389134F155B@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwj_n+1MMi02VuZgo0F1y5U3Ao7RzeOq+GBUh_j2-ii6QA@mail.gmail.com>

Guy;

If it's the same diameter as the pulley on the TR3A then
the diameter is 5.5 inches. Ten degrees BTDC can be
marked at 1/2" from the pulley TDC timing mark.

Dave


On Mon, Nov 8, 2021 at 4:43 PM Guy Huggins <guy.huggins at icloud.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Does anyone know the dimensions of the two-part crankshaft pulley for the
> TR4A?
> Mine is attached, and my calipers won?t open enough to measure the
> diameter.
>
> I am looking to determine the circumference, in order to make timing marks
> for when I start putting everything back together after the head gasket
> work.
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Guy D. Huggins
> 1965 Triumph TR4A
> CTC 63569LO
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>
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From dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz  Wed Nov 10 04:15:46 2021
From: dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz (Alan & Lyn Dunscombe)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 00:15:46 +1300
Subject: [TR] TR2 sill / bulkhead sealing
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1636484402.16515.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1636484402.16515.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <618BA9E2.3010301@chch.planet.org.nz>

Hi all

Finally after 40 years driving I am getting the sills & floors on my TR2 
replaced, currently at the panel beaters having them welded in. So my 
question is:-

How to deal with the dirt & moisture trap made by the "box" enclosed by 
the bulkhead & sealing plate at the front, the 'A' pillar at the back, 
the sill & front guard (fender in USA) at the bottom, & the rear of the 
inner guard etc at the top.

We all know that the factory sealing plate & rubber seals at the front 
are meant to stop the road dirt & moisture getting in, but don't do it 
very well. Then when it rains the water comes in between the side of the 
bonnet (hood in USA) & the front guards onto the top of the inner guard 
(fender), plus at the rear end of the bonnet it runs down from the 
gutter at the front of the bulkhead into the gap at the rear of the 
inner guard which is cleverly angled so that all this water drips off 
the back end into the above mentioned "box" enclosure where it combines 
with the road dirt etc and eventually rots out the front of the sill and 
the side kick panel in the cockpit & then the front of the floors.

General consensus seem to be that we should remove the bulkhead sealing 
plates each year and clean out all this accumulated 'crud' and dry out 
this area before replacing them.

Has anyone come up with a way of draining this area so it doesn't stay damp?

What is the consensus on the best treatment of this front part of the 
sill and bottom of the inner side of the guard etc. to stop rust 
attacking it?

All suggestions gratefully received.

cheers,

stay safe,

Alan TS3612

AW&  LJ Dunscombe
New Zealand




On 10/11/2021 8:00 a.m., triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
> 	triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> 	http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> 	triumphs-request at autox.team.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> 	triumphs-owner at autox.team.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>     1. TR4A Pulley Dimensions (Guy Huggins)
>     2. Re: TR4A Pulley Dimensions (David Friedlander)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2021 15:41:07 -0600
> From: Guy Huggins<guy.huggins at icloud.com>
> To: Triumph Mailing List<triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] TR4A Pulley Dimensions
> Message-ID:<89B5ABD9-F206-4294-89E2-3389134F155B at icloud.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset=utf-8
>
> Listers,
>
> Does anyone know the dimensions of the two-part crankshaft pulley for the TR4A?
> Mine is attached, and my calipers won?t open enough to measure the diameter.
>
> I am looking to determine the circumference, in order to make timing marks for when I start putting everything back together after the head gasket work.
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Guy D. Huggins
> 1965 Triumph TR4A
> CTC 63569LO
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2021 19:48:03 -0500
> From: David Friedlander<forzion7 at gmail.com>
> To: Guy Huggins<guy.huggins at icloud.com>
> Cc: Triumph Mailing List<triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Pulley Dimensions
> Message-ID:
> 	<CAJ1eQwj_n+1MMi02VuZgo0F1y5U3Ao7RzeOq+GBUh_j2-ii6QA at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Guy;
>
> If it's the same diameter as the pulley on the TR3A then
> the diameter is 5.5 inches. Ten degrees BTDC can be
> marked at 1/2" from the pulley TDC timing mark.
>
> Dave
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 8, 2021 at 4:43 PM Guy Huggins<guy.huggins at icloud.com>  wrote:
>
>    
>> Listers,
>>
>> Does anyone know the dimensions of the two-part crankshaft pulley for the
>> TR4A?
>> Mine is attached, and my calipers won?t open enough to measure the
>> diameter.
>>
>> I am looking to determine the circumference, in order to make timing marks
>> for when I start putting everything back together after the head gasket
>> work.
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Guy D. Huggins
>> 1965 Triumph TR4A
>> CTC 63569LO
>>
>>
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>>
>>      
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> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
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>
> ------------------------------
>
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> *****************************************
>
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>    
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From guy.huggins at icloud.com  Wed Nov 10 07:50:52 2021
From: guy.huggins at icloud.com (Guy Huggins)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2021 08:50:52 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR2 sill / bulkhead sealing
In-Reply-To: <618BA9E2.3010301@chch.planet.org.nz>
References: <mailman.5.1636484402.16515.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <618BA9E2.3010301@chch.planet.org.nz>
Message-ID: <C817F24F-C18F-48F2-902E-E9DE3E1CD48A@icloud.com>

When I restored my car, I had the same question about rust developing in enclosed areas, especially the insides of the chassis.
I ended up creating a ?soup? of melted paraffin wax and linseed oil, and injecting it.
The linseed oil keeps the wax from hardening all the way, and ends up like a slush.


Kind Regards,

Guy D. Huggins
guy.huggins at icloud.com
817.454.6415





On Nov 10, 2021, at 5:15 AM, Alan & Lyn Dunscombe <dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz> wrote:

Hi all

Finally after 40 years driving I am getting the sills & floors on my TR2 replaced, currently at the panel beaters having them welded in. So my question is:-

How to deal with the dirt & moisture trap made by the "box" enclosed by the bulkhead & sealing plate at the front, the 'A' pillar at the back, the sill & front guard (fender in USA) at the bottom, & the rear of the inner guard etc at the top. 

We all know that the factory sealing plate & rubber seals at the front are meant to stop the road dirt & moisture getting in, but don't do it very well. Then when it rains the water comes in between the side of the bonnet (hood in USA) & the front guards onto the top of the inner guard (fender), plus at the rear end of the bonnet it runs down from the gutter at the front of the bulkhead into the gap at the rear of the inner guard which is cleverly angled so that all this water drips off the back end into the above mentioned "box" enclosure where it combines with the road dirt etc and eventually rots out the front of the sill and the side kick panel in the cockpit & then the front of the floors.

General consensus seem to be that we should remove the bulkhead sealing plates each year and clean out all this accumulated 'crud' and dry out this area before replacing them. 

Has anyone come up with a way of draining this area so it doesn't stay damp?

What is the consensus on the best treatment  of this front part of the sill and bottom of the inner side of the guard etc. to stop rust attacking it?

All suggestions gratefully received.

cheers,

stay safe,

Alan     TS3612

 

AW & LJ Dunscombe
New Zealand



On 10/11/2021 8:00 a.m., triumphs-request at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
> 	triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> 	http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs>
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> 	triumphs-request at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-request at autox.team.net>
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> 	triumphs-owner at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-owner at autox.team.net>
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>    1. TR4A Pulley Dimensions (Guy Huggins)
>    2. Re: TR4A Pulley Dimensions (David Friedlander)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2021 15:41:07 -0600
> From: Guy Huggins <guy.huggins at icloud.com> <mailto:guy.huggins at icloud.com>
> To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net> <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] TR4A Pulley Dimensions
> Message-ID: <89B5ABD9-F206-4294-89E2-3389134F155B at icloud.com> <mailto:89B5ABD9-F206-4294-89E2-3389134F155B at icloud.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset=utf-8
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Does anyone know the dimensions of the two-part crankshaft pulley for the TR4A?
> Mine is attached, and my calipers won?t open enough to measure the diameter.
> 
> I am looking to determine the circumference, in order to make timing marks for when I start putting everything back together after the head gasket work.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Guy D. Huggins
> 1965 Triumph TR4A
> CTC 63569LO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2021 19:48:03 -0500
> From: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> <mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com>
> To: Guy Huggins <guy.huggins at icloud.com> <mailto:guy.huggins at icloud.com>
> Cc: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net> <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Pulley Dimensions
> Message-ID:
> 	<CAJ1eQwj_n+1MMi02VuZgo0F1y5U3Ao7RzeOq+GBUh_j2-ii6QA at mail.gmail.com> <mailto:CAJ1eQwj_n+1MMi02VuZgo0F1y5U3Ao7RzeOq+GBUh_j2-ii6QA at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Guy;
> 
> If it's the same diameter as the pulley on the TR3A then
> the diameter is 5.5 inches. Ten degrees BTDC can be
> marked at 1/2" from the pulley TDC timing mark.
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> On Mon, Nov 8, 2021 at 4:43 PM Guy Huggins <guy.huggins at icloud.com> <mailto:guy.huggins at icloud.com> wrote:
> 
>   
>> Listers,
>> 
>> Does anyone know the dimensions of the two-part crankshaft pulley for the
>> TR4A?
>> Mine is attached, and my calipers won?t open enough to measure the
>> diameter.
>> 
>> I am looking to determine the circumference, in order to make timing marks
>> for when I start putting everything back together after the head gasket
>> work.
>> 
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> 
>> Guy D. Huggins
>> 1965 Triumph TR4A
>> CTC 63569LO
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>
>> http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com>
>> 
>>     
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> ------------------------------
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> *****************************************
> 
> 
>   
** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

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From mtgaines at presby.edu  Wed Nov 10 08:00:05 2021
From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2021 15:00:05 +0000
Subject: [TR] leds for gauges and external lights TR6
Message-ID: <emf9ab811d-c339-4d5e-9bb5-82a4f7cfc644@laptop-lkrq9kmj>

I have been away from the Triumphs list for awhile, so I apologize if my 
question has been discussed previously. I had my TR6 up on the Blue 
Ridge Parkway in NC yesterday (2.5 hr destination) and was stranded for 
a time at the end when the oil pressure switch failed and spewed all my 
oil away! After a tow the AAA Service Center in Asheville gave me 4 
quarts of oil, and a service guy watched under the hood as I cranked the 
engine. He saw the problem, the engine sounded good still, and I 
replaced the switch with a bolt and made it home, much of the drive in 
the dark. By the way, great folks at AAA. They charged me nothing, even 
for the oil. That brings me to my question.

I could barely see my gauges in the interstate traffic, and I feared 
that my external lights were very dim compared to the modern cars around 
me. So now I'm online ordering the oil switch and looking at LED bulb 
replacements. There are multiple bulb kits for some makes on Moss, but I 
don't see one for TR6. Have any of you found such kits and had success 
with the brightness? If not with kits, what individual bulb replacements 
are good?

Thanks,
Tim
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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Wed Nov 10 08:16:39 2021
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2021 07:16:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR2 sill / bulkhead sealing
In-Reply-To: <618BA9E2.3010301@chch.planet.org.nz>
References: <mailman.5.1636484402.16515.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <618BA9E2.3010301@chch.planet.org.nz>
Message-ID: <87722902.1487495.1636557400057@connect.xfinity.com>

>From the factory when new, there was no paint where you don't see.  The bodies were painted after assembly.  So, rust happens quickly where paint was never applied.  If you prepare and paint everything before assembly, there shouldn't be a huge problem with rust.  The fill panel with it's rubber seals between the bulk head and fender doesn't seal very well.  You just have to be a little creative to improve the seal.  Perhaps inject some expandable foam behind the rubber seals to back them up.  The gutter between the top edge of the fender and hood/bonnet gap got a packing of putty, dumb-dumb, right at the bulkhead from the factory so water and debris wouldn't run down and fill boxed-in space behind the fender fill panel.  With some care and the fact that the car might not be used in the same way it did in the first 60 years of it's life you might not have to be too concerned.  Yes, you could remove the fill panel on occasion to check and clean that space.  Also remove the three bolts at the bottom edge of the fender to help get it good and clean.  Or, just let the next custodian deal with it.  When I built TS46235 every single body fastener got a little anti-seeze, so the fasteners would not rust an be easier to remove. 
Dave Hogye
TS2172LO
TS46235L
TS51651L

>     On 11/10/2021 3:15 AM Alan & Lyn Dunscombe <dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
>     Hi all
> 
>     Finally after 40 years driving I am getting the sills & floors on my TR2 replaced, currently at the panel beaters having them welded in. So my question is:-
> 
>     How to deal with the dirt & moisture trap made by the "box" enclosed by the bulkhead & sealing plate at the front, the 'A' pillar at the back, the sill & front guard (fender in USA) at the bottom, & the rear of the inner guard etc at the top.
> 
>     We all know that the factory sealing plate & rubber seals at the front are meant to stop the road dirt & moisture getting in, but don't do it very well. Then when it rains the water comes in between the side of the bonnet (hood in USA) & the front guards onto the top of the inner guard (fender), plus at the rear end of the bonnet it runs down from the gutter at the front of the bulkhead into the gap at the rear of the inner guard which is cleverly angled so that all this water drips off the back end into the above mentioned "box" enclosure where it combines with the road dirt etc and eventually rots out the front of the sill and the side kick panel in the cockpit & then the front of the floors.
> 
>     General consensus seem to be that we should remove the bulkhead sealing plates each year and clean out all this accumulated 'crud' and dry out this area before replacing them.
> 
>     Has anyone come up with a way of draining this area so it doesn't stay damp?
> 
>     What is the consensus on the best treatment  of this front part of the sill and bottom of the inner side of the guard etc. to stop rust attacking it?
> 
>     All suggestions gratefully received.
> 
>     cheers,
> 
>     stay safe,
> 
>     Alan     TS3612
> 
>      
> 
>     AW & LJ Dunscombe
>     New Zealand
> 
> 
> 
> 
>     On 10/11/2021 8:00 a.m., triumphs-request at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
>         > > 
> >         Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
> >          triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net
> > 
> >         To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> >          http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> >         or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> >          triumphs-request at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs-request at autox.team.net
> > 
> >         You can reach the person managing the list at
> >          triumphs-owner at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs-owner at autox.team.net
> > 
> >         When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> >         than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
> > 
> > 
> >         Today's Topics:
> > 
> >            1. TR4A Pulley Dimensions (Guy Huggins)
> >            2. Re: TR4A Pulley Dimensions (David Friedlander)
> > 
> > 
> >         ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > 
> >         Message: 1
> >         Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2021 15:41:07 -0600
> >         From: Guy Huggins <guy.huggins at icloud.com> mailto:guy.huggins at icloud.com
> >         To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net> mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net
> >         Subject: [TR] TR4A Pulley Dimensions
> >         Message-ID: <89B5ABD9-F206-4294-89E2-3389134F155B at icloud.com> mailto:89B5ABD9-F206-4294-89E2-3389134F155B at icloud.com
> >         Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> > 
> >         Listers,
> > 
> >         Does anyone know the dimensions of the two-part crankshaft pulley for the TR4A?
> >         Mine is attached, and my calipers won?t open enough to measure the diameter.
> > 
> >         I am looking to determine the circumference, in order to make timing marks for when I start putting everything back together after the head gasket work.
> > 
> > 
> >         Cheers,
> > 
> >         Guy D. Huggins
> >         1965 Triumph TR4A
> >         CTC 63569LO
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >         ------------------------------
> > 
> >         Message: 2
> >         Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2021 19:48:03 -0500
> >         From: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com
> >         To: Guy Huggins <guy.huggins at icloud.com> mailto:guy.huggins at icloud.com
> >         Cc: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net> mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net
> >         Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Pulley Dimensions
> >         Message-ID:
> >          <CAJ1eQwj_n+1MMi02VuZgo0F1y5U3Ao7RzeOq+GBUh_j2-ii6QA at mail.gmail.com> mailto:CAJ1eQwj_n+1MMi02VuZgo0F1y5U3Ao7RzeOq+GBUh_j2-ii6QA at mail.gmail.com
> >         Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > 
> >         Guy;
> > 
> >         If it's the same diameter as the pulley on the TR3A then
> >         the diameter is 5.5 inches. Ten degrees BTDC can be
> >         marked at 1/2" from the pulley TDC timing mark.
> > 
> >         Dave
> > 
> > 
> >         On Mon, Nov 8, 2021 at 4:43 PM Guy Huggins <guy.huggins at icloud.com> mailto:guy.huggins at icloud.com wrote:
> > 
> >           
> > 
> >             > > > 
> > >             Listers,
> > > 
> > >             Does anyone know the dimensions of the two-part crankshaft pulley for the
> > >             TR4A?
> > >             Mine is attached, and my calipers won?t open enough to measure the
> > >             diameter.
> > > 
> > >             I am looking to determine the circumference, in order to make timing marks
> > >             for when I start putting everything back together after the head gasket
> > >             work.
> > > 
> > > 
> > >             Cheers,
> > > 
> > >             Guy D. Huggins
> > >             1965 Triumph TR4A
> > >             CTC 63569LO
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > >             ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net **
> > > 
> > >             Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > >             Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> > >             http://www.team.net/archive
> > > 
> > >             Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > >             http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
> > > 
> > >                 
> > > 
> > >         > > 
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> > 
> >         ------------------------------
> > 
> >         Subject: Digest Footer
> > 
> >         _______________________________________________
> > 
> >         Triumphs mailing list
> >         Triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net
> >         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> > 
> > 
> >         ------------------------------
> > 
> >         End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 234
> >         *****************************************
> > 
> > 
> >           
> > 
> >     > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
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From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Nov 10 08:53:46 2021
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2021 09:53:46 -0600
Subject: [TR] leds for gauges and external lights TR6
In-Reply-To: <emf9ab811d-c339-4d5e-9bb5-82a4f7cfc644@laptop-lkrq9kmj>
References: <emf9ab811d-c339-4d5e-9bb5-82a4f7cfc644@laptop-lkrq9kmj>
Message-ID: <000c01d7d64b$25956d00$70c04700$@ranteer.com>

You really need to look at the www.litezupp.com <http://www.litezupp.com>  products.  

 

I have their headlights, tail light, and blinker bulbs.  You just pull out the old bulb and drop in the new ones.  Really, really bright.

 

Their headlights are drop in replacements for your existing ones.  They are so bright I don?t even bother with the highs.  

 

They also make replacement bulbs for the interior lights.  I didn?t put those in because I like the atmosphere of the old, dim bulbs.  To me it?s a contradiction to the wood dash and the general ambience inside the cabin at night.  I know, sounds silly.  But lots of people put in the LEDs and it really litezupp the interior.

 

If you replace the blinker bulbs you will also need a digital blinker switch.

 

A nice bonus is that this stuff takes a lot less current than the standard bulbs so its less drain on the car?s electrical system.

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2021 9:00 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] leds for gauges and external lights TR6

 

I have been away from the Triumphs list for awhile, so I apologize if my question has been discussed previously. I had my TR6 up on the Blue Ridge Parkway in NC yesterday (2.5 hr destination) and was stranded for a time at the end when the oil pressure switch failed and spewed all my oil away! After a tow the AAA Service Center in Asheville gave me 4 quarts of oil, and a service guy watched under the hood as I cranked the engine. He saw the problem, the engine sounded good still, and I replaced the switch with a bolt and made it home, much of the drive in the dark. By the way, great folks at AAA. They charged me nothing, even for the oil. That brings me to my question.

 

I could barely see my gauges in the interstate traffic, and I feared that my external lights were very dim compared to the modern cars around me. So now I'm online ordering the oil switch and looking at LED bulb replacements. There are multiple bulb kits for some makes on Moss, but I don't see one for TR6. Have any of you found such kits and had success with the brightness? If not with kits, what individual bulb replacements are good?

 

Thanks,

Tim

 

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From bwesterdale53 at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 10 09:14:31 2021
From: bwesterdale53 at yahoo.com (Bob Westerdale)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2021 16:14:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] leds for gauges and external lights TR6
In-Reply-To: <000c01d7d64b$25956d00$70c04700$@ranteer.com>
References: <emf9ab811d-c339-4d5e-9bb5-82a4f7cfc644@laptop-lkrq9kmj>
 <000c01d7d64b$25956d00$70c04700$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <900769236.1522941.1636560871986@mail.yahoo.com>

 I'm looking to upgrade my headlights, I see that?Litezupp sells an LED headlight kit for? the TR3? ( under consideration)Litezupp 7" Fluted LED Headlights (pair)


| 
| 
| 
| $121.75 |  |

 |

 |
| 
|  | 
Litezupp 7" Fluted LED Headlights (pair)

Litezupp 7" round Classic Fluted glass lens/metal housing headlamp combined with a 3rd generation Cree based LED...
 |

 |

 |

Any idea if these will fit in an unmodified TR3 headlight bucket?Thanks!Bob W.59 TR3A? TS36967

    On Wednesday, November 10, 2021, 10:54:28 AM EST, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:  
 
 
You really need to look at the www.litezupp.com products.? 

 ?

I have their headlights, tail light, and blinker bulbs.? You just pull out the old bulb and drop in the new ones.? Really, really bright.

 ?

Their headlights are drop in replacements for your existing ones.? They are so bright I don?t even bother with the highs.? 

 ?

They also make replacement bulbs for the interior lights.? I didn?t put those in because I like the atmosphere of the old, dim bulbs.? To me it?s a contradiction to the wood dash and the general ambience inside the cabin at night.? I know, sounds silly.? But lots of people put in the LEDs and it really litezupp the interior.

 ?

If you replace the blinker bulbs you will also need a digital blinker switch.

 ?

A nice bonus is that this stuff takes a lot less current than the standard bulbs so its less drain on the car?s electrical system.

 ?

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2021 9:00 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] leds for gauges and external lights TR6

 ?

I have been away from the Triumphs list for awhile, so I apologize if my question has been discussed previously. I had my TR6 up on the Blue Ridge Parkway in NC yesterday (2.5 hr destination) and was stranded for a time at the end when the oil pressure switch failed and spewed all my oil away! After a tow the AAA Service Center in Asheville gave me 4 quarts of oil, and a service guy watched under the hood as I cranked the engine. He saw the problem, the engine sounded good still, and I replaced the switch with a bolt and made it home, much of the drive in the dark. By the way, great folks at AAA. They charged me nothing, even for the oil. That brings me to my question.

 ?

I could barely see my gauges in the interstate traffic, and I feared that my external lights were very dim compared to the modern cars around me. So now I'm online ordering the oil switch and looking at LED bulb replacements. There are multiple bulb kits for some makes on Moss, but I don't see one for TR6. Have any of you found such kits and had success with the brightness? If not with kits, what individual bulb replacements are good?

 ?

Thanks,

Tim

 ?
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bwesterdale53 at yahoo.com
  
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From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Nov 10 09:42:52 2021
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2021 09:42:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] leds for gauges and external lights TR6
In-Reply-To: <000c01d7d64b$25956d00$70c04700$@ranteer.com>
References: <000c01d7d64b$25956d00$70c04700$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <2A741D13-B5AF-4453-8796-6FD24F56980D@comcast.net>

Litezupp has TR6 bulbs. Great products. I have many of their bulbs on my 6 and recently added their LED headlights. Love them. I can tell people are puzzled seeing an old car with such modern, bright, lights.

Bud

Sent from my Commadore 64

> On Nov 10, 2021, at 8:59 AM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> You really need to look at the www.litezupp.com products. 
>  
> I have their headlights, tail light, and blinker bulbs.  You just pull out the old bulb and drop in the new ones.  Really, really bright.
>  
> Their headlights are drop in replacements for your existing ones.  They are so bright I don?t even bother with the highs. 
>  
> They also make replacement bulbs for the interior lights.  I didn?t put those in because I like the atmosphere of the old, dim bulbs.  To me it?s a contradiction to the wood dash and the general ambience inside the cabin at night.  I know, sounds silly.  But lots of people put in the LEDs and it really litezupp the interior.
>  
> If you replace the blinker bulbs you will also need a digital blinker switch.
>  
> A nice bonus is that this stuff takes a lot less current than the standard bulbs so its less drain on the car?s electrical system.
>  
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
> Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2021 9:00 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] leds for gauges and external lights TR6
>  
> I have been away from the Triumphs list for awhile, so I apologize if my question has been discussed previously. I had my TR6 up on the Blue Ridge Parkway in NC yesterday (2.5 hr destination) and was stranded for a time at the end when the oil pressure switch failed and spewed all my oil away! After a tow the AAA Service Center in Asheville gave me 4 quarts of oil, and a service guy watched under the hood as I cranked the engine. He saw the problem, the engine sounded good still, and I replaced the switch with a bolt and made it home, much of the drive in the dark. By the way, great folks at AAA. They charged me nothing, even for the oil. That brings me to my question.
>  
> I could barely see my gauges in the interstate traffic, and I feared that my external lights were very dim compared to the modern cars around me. So now I'm online ordering the oil switch and looking at LED bulb replacements. There are multiple bulb kits for some makes on Moss, but I don't see one for TR6. Have any of you found such kits and had success with the brightness? If not with kits, what individual bulb replacements are good?
>  
> Thanks,
> Tim
>  
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net
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From dconnitt at fuse.net  Wed Nov 10 13:18:31 2021
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2021 15:18:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] leds for gauges and external lights TR6
In-Reply-To: <2A741D13-B5AF-4453-8796-6FD24F56980D@comcast.net>
References: <2A741D13-B5AF-4453-8796-6FD24F56980D@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AE01B6A4-CB91-4AA2-8917-DBEBA62B096A@fuse.net>

Hi Bud, 
I am with Tim. Go with Litezupp. I installed their headlamp kit and then their instrument lights and sm happy with both upgrades. In fact, I did a couple of YouTube videos on them. The channel is called DavesTR4A. There is a video on the headlamps and the instrument lights.
Dave Connitt 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 10, 2021, at 11:45 AM, Bud <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Litezupp has TR6 bulbs. Great products. I have many of their bulbs on my 6 and recently added their LED headlights. Love them. I can tell people are puzzled seeing an old car with such modern, bright, lights.
> 
> Bud
> 
> Sent from my Commadore 64
> 
>>> On Nov 10, 2021, at 8:59 AM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>>> 
>> ?
>> You really need to look at the www.litezupp.com products. 
>>  
>> I have their headlights, tail light, and blinker bulbs.  You just pull out the old bulb and drop in the new ones.  Really, really bright.
>>  
>> Their headlights are drop in replacements for your existing ones.  They are so bright I don?t even bother with the highs. 
>>  
>> They also make replacement bulbs for the interior lights.  I didn?t put those in because I like the atmosphere of the old, dim bulbs.  To me it?s a contradiction to the wood dash and the general ambience inside the cabin at night.  I know, sounds silly.  But lots of people put in the LEDs and it really litezupp the interior.
>>  
>> If you replace the blinker bulbs you will also need a digital blinker switch.
>>  
>> A nice bonus is that this stuff takes a lot less current than the standard bulbs so its less drain on the car?s electrical system.
>>  
>> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2021 9:00 AM
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [TR] leds for gauges and external lights TR6
>>  
>> I have been away from the Triumphs list for awhile, so I apologize if my question has been discussed previously. I had my TR6 up on the Blue Ridge Parkway in NC yesterday (2.5 hr destination) and was stranded for a time at the end when the oil pressure switch failed and spewed all my oil away! After a tow the AAA Service Center in Asheville gave me 4 quarts of oil, and a service guy watched under the hood as I cranked the engine. He saw the problem, the engine sounded good still, and I replaced the switch with a bolt and made it home, much of the drive in the dark. By the way, great folks at AAA. They charged me nothing, even for the oil. That brings me to my question.
>>  
>> I could barely see my gauges in the interstate traffic, and I feared that my external lights were very dim compared to the modern cars around me. So now I'm online ordering the oil switch and looking at LED bulb replacements. There are multiple bulb kits for some makes on Moss, but I don't see one for TR6. Have any of you found such kits and had success with the brightness? If not with kits, what individual bulb replacements are good?
>>  
>> Thanks,
>> Tim
>>  
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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From elliottr at rmi.net  Wed Nov 10 14:07:46 2021
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2021 15:07:46 -0600
Subject: [TR] leds for gauges and external lights TR6
In-Reply-To: <000c01d7d64b$25956d00$70c04700$@ranteer.com>
References: <emf9ab811d-c339-4d5e-9bb5-82a4f7cfc644@laptop-lkrq9kmj>
 <000c01d7d64b$25956d00$70c04700$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <73aa7578-bda8-54e7-5359-3d680797fea3@rmi.net>

I have a bit of a different take on Litezupp.?? There LEDs do seem to be 
brighter than other tail lights, but only if you are in line with them.? 
I followed a TR6 with Litzupps in his tail lights and they seemed dim 
unless you were directly behind them. Also, they lit up a spot in the 
lens, but did not fill the whole area with light like incandescent 
lights do.? I found some LEDs that had LEDs pointing to the side as well 
as straight out.? Maybe they have changed something as this was a few 
years ago.

Unfortunately, they don't seem to make them anymore.

I don't know about any of their other lights.

Roger

On 11/10/2021 9:53 AM, dave wrote:
>
> You really need to look at the www.litezupp.com 
> <http://www.litezupp.com> products.
>
> I have their headlights, tail light, and blinker bulbs.? You just pull 
> out the old bulb and drop in the new ones.? Really, really bright.
>
> Their headlights are drop in replacements for your existing ones.? 
> They are so bright I don?t even bother with the highs.
>
> They also make replacement bulbs for the interior lights.? I didn?t 
> put those in because I like the atmosphere of the old, dim bulbs.? To 
> me it?s a contradiction to the wood dash and the general ambience 
> inside the cabin at night.? I know, sounds silly.? But lots of people 
> put in the LEDs and it really litezupp the interior.
>
> If you replace the blinker bulbs you will also need a digital blinker 
> switch.
>
> A nice bonus is that this stuff takes a lot less current than the 
> standard bulbs so its less drain on the car?s electrical system.
>
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Tim 
> Gaines
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 10, 2021 9:00 AM
> *To:* triumphs at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [TR] leds for gauges and external lights TR6
>
> I have been away from the Triumphs list for awhile, so I apologize if 
> my question has been discussed previously. I had my TR6 up on the Blue 
> Ridge Parkway in NC yesterday (2.5 hr destination) and was stranded 
> for a time at the end when the oil pressure switch failed and spewed 
> all my oil away! After a tow the AAA Service Center in Asheville gave 
> me 4 quarts of oil, and a service guy watched under the hood as I 
> cranked the engine. He saw the problem, the engine sounded good still, 
> and I replaced the switch with a bolt and made it home, much of the 
> drive in the dark. By the way, great folks at AAA. They charged me 
> nothing, even for the oil. That brings me to my question.
>
> I could barely see my gauges in the interstate traffic, and I feared 
> that my external lights were very dim compared to the modern cars 
> around me. So now I'm online ordering the oil switch and looking at 
> LED bulb replacements. There are multiple bulb kits for some makes on 
> Moss, but I don't see one for TR6. Have any of you found such kits and 
> had success with the brightness? If not with kits, what individual 
> bulb replacements are good?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
>
>
> **triumphs at autox.team.net  **
>
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs   http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net
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From dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz  Wed Nov 10 15:23:31 2021
From: dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz (Alan & Lyn Dunscombe)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 11:23:31 +1300
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 235
In-Reply-To: <mailman.13.1636570803.4072.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.13.1636570803.4072.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <618C4663.3080309@chch.planet.org.nz>

Thanks Guy
good suggestion.
My panel beater is already organised to fill the interior of the sills 
with the correct anti-rust wax etc.
I was thinking more about the exposed exterior of the sills & 'A' panel etc.

thanks for your suggestions

regards
Alan

AW&  LJ Dunscombe
Porthcurno Pointers&  Barton Border Terriers
New Zealand
www.porthcurno.org
www.bartonborders.org



On 11/11/2021 8:00 a.m., triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2021 08:50:52 -0600
> From: Guy Huggins<guy.huggins at icloud.com>
> To: Alan&  Lyn Dunscombe<dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz>
> Cc: Triumph Mailing List<triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 sill / bulkhead sealing
> Message-ID:<C817F24F-C18F-48F2-902E-E9DE3E1CD48A at icloud.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> When I restored my car, I had the same question about rust developing in enclosed areas, especially the insides of the chassis.
> I ended up creating a ?soup? of melted paraffin wax and linseed oil, and injecting it.
> The linseed oil keeps the wax from hardening all the way, and ends up like a slush.
>
>
> Kind Regards,
>
> Guy D. Huggins
> guy.huggins at icloud.com
> 817.454.6415
>
>
>
>
>
> On Nov 10, 2021, at 5:15 AM, Alan&  Lyn Dunscombe<dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz>  wrote:
>
> Hi all
>
> Finally after 40 years driving I am getting the sills&  floors on my TR2 replaced, currently at the panel beaters having them welded in. So my question is:-
>
> How to deal with the dirt&  moisture trap made by the "box" enclosed by the bulkhead&  sealing plate at the front, the 'A' pillar at the back, the sill&  front guard (fender in USA) at the bottom,&  the rear of the inner guard etc at the top.
>
> We all know that the factory sealing plate&  rubber seals at the front are meant to stop the road dirt&  moisture getting in, but don't do it very well. Then when it rains the water comes in between the side of the bonnet (hood in USA)&  the front guards onto the top of the inner guard (fender), plus at the rear end of the bonnet it runs down from the gutter at the front of the bulkhead into the gap at the rear of the inner guard which is cleverly angled so that all this water drips off the back end into the above mentioned "box" enclosure where it combines with the road dirt etc and eventually rots out the front of the sill and the side kick panel in the cockpit&  then the front of the floors.
>
> General consensus seem to be that we should remove the bulkhead sealing plates each year and clean out all this accumulated 'crud' and dry out this area before replacing them.
>
> Has anyone come up with a way of draining this area so it doesn't stay damp?
>
> What is the consensus on the best treatment  of this front part of the sill and bottom of the inner side of the guard etc. to stop rust attacking it?
>
> All suggestions gratefully received.
>
> cheers,
>
> stay safe,
>
> Alan     TS3612
>
>
>
> AW&  LJ Dunscombe
> New Zealand
>    
>

From dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz  Wed Nov 10 15:34:21 2021
From: dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz (Alan & Lyn Dunscombe)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 11:34:21 +1300
Subject: [TR] TR2 sill / bulkhead sealing
In-Reply-To: <mailman.13.1636570803.4072.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.13.1636570803.4072.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <618C48ED.3040006@chch.planet.org.nz>

Dave
thanks for your reply, some great suggestions there.
Your point about putty / dum-dum sealing the gutter between the top edge 
of fender and bulkhead is excellent.
I will make sure this is properly done when it goes back together, I 
will also be putting anti-seize on all the fasteners when re-assembling 
and substitute stainless steel bolts & nuts at the bottom edge of the 
fender each side.

I appreciate your help

cheers

Alan

AW&  LJ Dunscombe
New Zealand

AW&  LJ Dunscombe
Porthcurno Pointers&  Barton Border Terriers
New Zealand
www.porthcurno.org
www.bartonborders.org



On 11/11/2021 8:00 a.m., triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2021 07:16:39 -0800 (PST)
> From: DAVE HOGYE<dlhogye at comcast.net>
> To: Alan&  Lyn Dunscombe<dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz>,
> 	triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 sill / bulkhead sealing
> Message-ID:<87722902.1487495.1636557400057 at connect.xfinity.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> > From the factory when new, there was no paint where you don't see.  The bodies were painted after assembly.  So, rust happens quickly where paint was never applied.  If you prepare and paint everything before assembly, there shouldn't be a huge problem with rust.  The fill panel with it's rubber seals between the bulk head and fender doesn't seal very well.  You just have to be a little creative to improve the seal.  Perhaps inject some expandable foam behind the rubber seals to back them up.  The gutter between the top edge of the fender and hood/bonnet gap got a packing of putty, dumb-dumb, right at the bulkhead from the factory so water and debris wouldn't run down and fill boxed-in space behind the fender fill panel.  With some care and the fact that the car might not be used in the same way it did in the first 60 years of it's life you might not have to be too concerned.  Yes, you could remove the fill panel on occasion to check and clean that space.  Also remove the three bolt
>   s at the bottom edge of the fender to help get it good and clean.  Or, just let the next custodian deal with it.  When I built TS46235 every single body fastener got a little anti-seeze, so the fasteners would not rust an be easier to remove.
> Dave Hogye
> TS2172LO
> TS46235L
> TS51651L
>
>    
>>      On 11/10/2021 3:15 AM Alan&  Lyn Dunscombe<dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz>  wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>      Hi all
>>
>>      Finally after 40 years driving I am getting the sills&  floors on my TR2 replaced, currently at the panel beaters having them welded in. So my question is:-
>>
>>      How to deal with the dirt&  moisture trap made by the "box" enclosed by the bulkhead&  sealing plate at the front, the 'A' pillar at the back, the sill&  front guard (fender in USA) at the bottom,&  the rear of the inner guard etc at the top.
>>
>>      We all know that the factory sealing plate&  rubber seals at the front are meant to stop the road dirt&  moisture getting in, but don't do it very well. Then when it rains the water comes in between the side of the bonnet (hood in USA)&  the front guards onto the top of the inner guard (fender), plus at the rear end of the bonnet it runs down from the gutter at the front of the bulkhead into the gap at the rear of the inner guard which is cleverly angled so that all this water drips off the back end into the above mentioned "box" enclosure where it combines with the road dirt etc and eventually rots out the front of the sill and the side kick panel in the cockpit&  then the front of the floors.
>>
>>      General consensus seem to be that we should remove the bulkhead sealing plates each year and clean out all this accumulated 'crud' and dry out this area before replacing them.
>>
>>      Has anyone come up with a way of draining this area so it doesn't stay damp?
>>
>>      What is the consensus on the best treatment  of this front part of the sill and bottom of the inner side of the guard etc. to stop rust attacking it?
>>
>>      All suggestions gratefully received.
>>
>>      cheers,
>>
>>      stay safe,
>>
>>      Alan     TS3612
>>
>>
>>
>>      AW&  LJ Dunscombe
>>      New Zealand
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>      
>
>    


From bwesterdale53 at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 10 17:16:05 2021
From: bwesterdale53 at yahoo.com (Bob Westerdale)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 00:16:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR2 sill / bulkhead sealing
In-Reply-To: <618C48ED.3040006@chch.planet.org.nz>
References: <mailman.13.1636570803.4072.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <618C48ED.3040006@chch.planet.org.nz>
Message-ID: <759273676.1354342.1636589765592@mail.yahoo.com>

 About 30 years ago, when replacing most of the sheet metal on the bottom of my TR3, I noticed that the waterdrainage path from most of the upper surfaces of the car was routed into the bottom interior of the two front fenders.Realizing this very slight design oversight had allowed the car to become a water-tanker, ( for a short while, anyway)I decided to re-route the water through a pair of bendable copper tubes, which conducted the water harmlessly to the?ground below.? ?The tubing was set in some 3M body dum-dum to ensure it's safe exit,? and all is well now.I'm hoping the pics I attached don't get trashed on the way.... ( See below, perhaps...)enjoy,BW59 TR3 TS 36967
    On Wednesday, November 10, 2021, 05:35:15 PM EST, Alan & Lyn Dunscombe <dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz> wrote:  
 
 Dave
thanks for your reply, some great suggestions there.
Your point about putty / dum-dum sealing the gutter between the top edge 
of fender and bulkhead is excellent.
I will make sure this is properly done when it goes back together, I 
will also be putting anti-seize on all the fasteners when re-assembling 
and substitute stainless steel bolts & nuts at the bottom edge of the 
fender each side.

I appreciate your help

cheers

Alan

AW&? LJ Dunscombe
New Zealand

AW&? LJ Dunscombe
Porthcurno Pointers&? Barton Border Terriers
New Zealand
www.porthcurno.org
www.bartonborders.org



On 11/11/2021 8:00 a.m., triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2021 07:16:39 -0800 (PST)
> From: DAVE HOGYE<dlhogye at comcast.net>
> To: Alan&? Lyn Dunscombe<dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz>,
> ??? triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 sill / bulkhead sealing
> Message-ID:<87722902.1487495.1636557400057 at connect.xfinity.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> > From the factory when new, there was no paint where you don't see.? The bodies were painted after assembly.? So, rust happens quickly where paint was never applied.? If you prepare and paint everything before assembly, there shouldn't be a huge problem with rust.? The fill panel with it's rubber seals between the bulk head and fender doesn't seal very well.? You just have to be a little creative to improve the seal.? Perhaps inject some expandable foam behind the rubber seals to back them up.? The gutter between the top edge of the fender and hood/bonnet gap got a packing of putty, dumb-dumb, right at the bulkhead from the factory so water and debris wouldn't run down and fill boxed-in space behind the fender fill panel.? With some care and the fact that the car might not be used in the same way it did in the first 60 years of it's life you might not have to be too concerned.? Yes, you could remove the fill panel on occasion to check and clean that space.? Also remove the three b
 olt
>? s at the bottom edge of the fender to help get it good and clean.? Or, just let the next custodian deal with it.? When I built TS46235 every single body fastener got a little anti-seeze, so the fasteners would not rust an be easier to remove.
> Dave Hogye
> TS2172LO
> TS46235L
> TS51651L
>
>? ? 
>>? ? ? On 11/10/2021 3:15 AM Alan&? Lyn Dunscombe<dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz>? wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>? ? ? Hi all
>>
>>? ? ? Finally after 40 years driving I am getting the sills&? floors on my TR2 replaced, currently at the panel beaters having them welded in. So my question is:-
>>
>>? ? ? How to deal with the dirt&? moisture trap made by the "box" enclosed by the bulkhead&? sealing plate at the front, the 'A' pillar at the back, the sill&? front guard (fender in USA) at the bottom,&? the rear of the inner guard etc at the top.
>>
>>? ? ? We all know that the factory sealing plate&? rubber seals at the front are meant to stop the road dirt&? moisture getting in, but don't do it very well. Then when it rains the water comes in between the side of the bonnet (hood in USA)&? the front guards onto the top of the inner guard (fender), plus at the rear end of the bonnet it runs down from the gutter at the front of the bulkhead into the gap at the rear of the inner guard which is cleverly angled so that all this water drips off the back end into the above mentioned "box" enclosure where it combines with the road dirt etc and eventually rots out the front of the sill and the side kick panel in the cockpit&? then the front of the floors.
>>
>>? ? ? General consensus seem to be that we should remove the bulkhead sealing plates each year and clean out all this accumulated 'crud' and dry out this area before replacing them.
>>
>>? ? ? Has anyone come up with a way of draining this area so it doesn't stay damp?
>>
>>? ? ? What is the consensus on the best treatment? of this front part of the sill and bottom of the inner side of the guard etc. to stop rust attacking it?
>>
>>? ? ? All suggestions gratefully received.
>>
>>? ? ? cheers,
>>
>>? ? ? stay safe,
>>
>>? ? ? Alan? ? TS3612
>>
>>
>>
>>? ? ? AW&? LJ Dunscombe
>>? ? ? New Zealand
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>? ? ? 
>
>? ? 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Nov 11 07:56:29 2021
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 08:56:29 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 issue
Message-ID: <000001d7d70c$4f43ecf0$edcbc6d0$@ranteer.com>

I have a friend who has a 74 TR6.  Recent rebuild of the engine both top and
bottom.  We are a little suspicious of the machine shop that did the head.
The bottom end was done a year later by a different machinist.

 

All pollution stuff is gone.

 

Compression across all 6 cylinders is within a couple PSI

 

Leakdown test was a small % on all cylinders

 

Engine uses a lot of oil and there is a blue puff when he accelerates or
engine brakes

 

We think its likely the valve guides are leaking.

 

What do you think?

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From mtgaines at presby.edu  Thu Nov 11 07:57:42 2021
From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 14:57:42 +0000
Subject: [TR] leds for gauges and external lights TR6
In-Reply-To: <000c01d7d64b$25956d00$70c04700$@ranteer.com>
References: <emf9ab811d-c339-4d5e-9bb5-82a4f7cfc644@laptop-lkrq9kmj>
 <000c01d7d64b$25956d00$70c04700$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <emba5ac07b-b0c2-425a-a980-347beb1641c8@laptop-lkrq9kmj>

Many thanks to Dave, Dave Connitt, Bud, and Roger Elliott for the 
discussion on LiteZupp products. I just placed an order for their TR6 
interior bulb kit. With all the different instrument and dash lights 
covered in the kit, the price per bulb is very reasonable, not to 
mention the fact that the kit meant that I didn't have to enumerate them 
myself. I am going to check out the external LED replacements for 1156 
and 1157 bulbs individually to see about the possible directionality 
issue.

My next night drive should be much more satisfactory!

Tim

------ Original Message ------
From: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: 11/10/2021 10:53:46 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] leds for gauges and external lights TR6

>You really need to look at the www.litezupp.com products.
>
>
>
>I have their headlights, tail light, and blinker bulbs.  You just pull 
>out the old bulb and drop in the new ones.  Really, really bright.
>
>
>
>Their headlights are drop in replacements for your existing ones.  They 
>are so bright I don?t even bother with the highs.
>
>
>
>They also make replacement bulbs for the interior lights.  I didn?t put 
>those in because I like the atmosphere of the old, dim bulbs.  To me 
>it?s a contradiction to the wood dash and the general ambience inside 
>the cabin at night.  I know, sounds silly.  But lots of people put in 
>the LEDs and it really litezupp the interior.
>
>
>
>If you replace the blinker bulbs you will also need a digital blinker 
>switch.
>
>
>
>A nice bonus is that this stuff takes a lot less current than the 
>standard bulbs so its less drain on the car?s electrical system.
>
>
>
>From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tim 
>Gaines
>Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2021 9:00 AM
>To:triumphs at autox.team.net
>Subject: [TR] leds for gauges and external lights TR6
>
>
>
>I have been away from the Triumphs list for awhile, so I apologize if 
>my question has been discussed previously. I had my TR6 up on the Blue 
>Ridge Parkway in NC yesterday (2.5 hr destination) and was stranded for 
>a time at the end when the oil pressure switch failed and spewed all my 
>oil away! After a tow the AAA Service Center in Asheville gave me 4 
>quarts of oil, and a service guy watched under the hood as I cranked 
>the engine. He saw the problem, the engine sounded good still, and I 
>replaced the switch with a bolt and made it home, much of the drive in 
>the dark. By the way, great folks at AAA. They charged me nothing, even 
>for the oil. That brings me to my question.
>
>
>
>I could barely see my gauges in the interstate traffic, and I feared 
>that my external lights were very dim compared to the modern cars 
>around me. So now I'm online ordering the oil switch and looking at LED 
>bulb replacements. There are multiple bulb kits for some makes on Moss, 
>but I don't see one for TR6. Have any of you found such kits and had 
>success with the brightness? If not with kits, what individual bulb 
>replacements are good?
>
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tim
>
>
>
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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Nov 11 08:16:56 2021
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 10:16:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 issue
In-Reply-To: <000001d7d70c$4f43ecf0$edcbc6d0$@ranteer.com>
References: <000001d7d70c$4f43ecf0$edcbc6d0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <c57368c5-a261-19c4-9812-e06e82497b7b@adelphia.net>

Dave,

I had my machine shop replace the valve guides on all my Triumphs with 
bronze guides sourced at TRF. In addition they added ss valve seats for 
the exhaust so I could use unleaded without the additive. Zero problems 
with the 4 which is over 20 years since rebuild. 3 10 years and same 
with the 6, No smoke and almost zero oil usage. I doubt a leak down test 
would reveal bad guides. What do the plugs look like? If there is oil 
foul they would appear black and greasy. But you could have bad rings, 
the oil scraper may be bad.

Bob

On 11/11/21 9:56 AM, dave wrote:
>
> I have a friend who has a 74 TR6.? Recent rebuild of the engine both 
> top and bottom.? We are a little suspicious of the machine shop that 
> did the head.? The bottom end was done a year later by a different 
> machinist.
>
> All pollution stuff is gone.
>
> Compression across all 6 cylinders is within a couple PSI
>
> Leakdown test was a small % on all cylinders
>
> Engine uses a lot of oil and there is a blue puff when he accelerates 
> or engine brakes
>
> We think its likely the valve guides are leaking.
>
> What do you think?
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net
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From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Thu Nov 11 09:36:40 2021
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 10:36:40 -0600
Subject: [TR] A TR6 in Germany has this "Triumph Club of North America"
 badge...
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFDWqTX5YqTTAkXEN_wnfkm40b2EmtGXa=wc+2nuP-TqoA@mail.gmail.com>

...on its dashboard.  It's been there since the guy got the car and he's
wondering what this club is/was.  It's a new badge to me.  Anybody here
have any insight?
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Nov 11 09:49:13 2021
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 16:49:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 issue
In-Reply-To: <000001d7d70c$4f43ecf0$edcbc6d0$@ranteer.com>
References: <000001d7d70c$4f43ecf0$edcbc6d0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <1447526378.1759892.1636649353880@mail.yahoo.com>

 We think its likely the valve guides are leaking.
me 2
frank
    On Thursday, November 11, 2021, 06:56:54 AM PST, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:  
 
 
I have a friend who has a 74 TR6.? Recent rebuild of the engine both top and bottom.? We are a little suspicious of the machine shop that did the head.? The bottom end was done a year later by a different machinist.

 ?

All pollution stuff is gone.

 ?

Compression across all 6 cylinders is within a couple PSI

 ?

Leakdown test was a small % on all cylinders

 ?

Engine uses a lot of oil and there is a blue puff when he accelerates or engine brakes

 ?

We think its likely the valve guides are leaking.

 ?

What do you think?
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From ghaynestr4 at aol.com  Thu Nov 11 13:34:57 2021
From: ghaynestr4 at aol.com (George Haynes)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 20:34:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] LED Headlights
References: <2122008184.14697.1636662897388.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2122008184.14697.1636662897388@mail.yahoo.com>

Time to toss in my 2 cents...
I bought LED bulbs for my TR4A from Litezupp and installed them in the Hella lamp housings previously used?for their H4 Halogen bulbs.
The Litezupp bulbs were very powerful. ?Loved them!They were advertised as having 2500 Lumens on High Beam and 2000 Lumens on Low Beam.
But there was no cutoff on low beam. ?I only knew the difference by the blue Hi Beam lamp in my speedometer.I decided I would not like to be approaching my own car in another vehicle at night. ?I would have surely flashed my high beams.
So I sold them at the flea market in Carlisle, PA. ?Virtually like new.
Then a friend recommended an LED lamp place in England. ?Their website showed a distinct cutoff on low beam.
So I bought a pair. ?As advertised, the new bulbs are both extremely bright, and also have a distinct cutoff on low beam.
I have yet to dial in the exact ?alignment, but they are all I had hoped for! ?
The business in England is: ?Classic Car LED's Ltd (Sales at classiccarLED's.com.UK)
George?Haynes
1965 TR4A ?CTC 55423LO? IRS, O/D, Surrey Top
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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu Nov 11 14:06:04 2021
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 16:06:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 race car
Message-ID: <001d01d7d73f$f12feb80$d38fc280$@uprichard.net>

Listers:  I have come across a TR4 race car which is basically a body on a
frame:  no engine, transmission or interior.  Also no title or vin plate.

 

I have had the car in the air and the frame appears really solid.  Likewise
the body is remarkably rust-free.  The fenders are metal, but they have been
flared to accommodate wider wheels.  

 

I have many more pics if anyone is interested in knowing more.

 

The car is located in Jackson, Michigan.  I'd like to get $1200 for it, but
I am open to offers.

 

Andrew Uprichard

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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Thu Nov 11 14:30:41 2021
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 16:30:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] Incantation
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwikksQEFCiNsgNkouV92Bsiw8Sb4S7S_KJq6=Qc1ihHzA@mail.gmail.com>

Greetings, listers!

I have now replaced the throwout bearing and sleeve on my OD transmission
and am trying to re-mate it with the engine. It's been several days of
jacking,
maneuvering and pushing the tranny, to no avail. One won't get closer than
an
inch to an inch-and-a-half to the other. Holes in the flanges of both line
up,
the engine and transmission seem to be on the same plane but that's as far
as it goes.

On what page of the manual is the incantation to speak over this effort?
Must be spoken with a Limey accent, right?  :- )

Dave
'59 TR3A
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Thu Nov 11 14:51:36 2021
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 16:51:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] [NET] Incantation
In-Reply-To: <BE0A0CF8-B2C7-4BB9-8025-FB92AD7AA700@aol.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwikksQEFCiNsgNkouV92Bsiw8Sb4S7S_KJq6=Qc1ihHzA@mail.gmail.com>
 <BE0A0CF8-B2C7-4BB9-8025-FB92AD7AA700@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwg47cU+fz=SKk9_VozYWzdNuK+geH-G8MWz+sAhpNbkMA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for the feedback thus far, gentlemen.

My effort only included the transmission. I didn't service or
disassemble the clutch at all. I only replaced the throw-out
bearing, the sleeve for the TO bearing, the fork and pin and
the cross-shaft bushings. The output  shaft will now not
turn when in gear, signifying to me that the input shaft has
now aligned with the splines in the clutch.

Dave

On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 4:41 PM Philip Gott <vfracing at aol.com> wrote:

> Dave;
> We?ve found that standing on your head while you turn the tail shaft a
> little bit at a time  with the transmission in gear helps to align the
> splines on the input shaft with the clutch. (You did first align the clutch
> with the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft, right? If you took it
> apart and did not touch the clutch, you?re ok on this already. ) also try
> rotating the transmission about the input shaft axis a bit. That helps to
> align the splines.
> Good luck!
> Phil G
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 11, 2021, at 4:32 PM, David Friedlander via NET <
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:
>
> ?
> Greetings, listers!
>
> I have now replaced the throwout bearing and sleeve on my OD transmission
> and am trying to re-mate it with the engine. It's been several days of
> jacking,
> maneuvering and pushing the tranny, to no avail. One won't get closer than
> an
> inch to an inch-and-a-half to the other. Holes in the flanges of both line
> up,
> the engine and transmission seem to be on the same plane but that's as far
> as it goes.
>
> On what page of the manual is the incantation to speak over this effort?
> Must be spoken with a Limey accent, right?  :- )
>
> Dave
> '59 TR3A
> _______________________________________________
> NET mailing list
> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>
>
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From jpaynepbr at cox.net  Thu Nov 11 14:57:40 2021
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 13:57:40 -0800
Subject: [TR] -- SPAM -- Incantation
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwikksQEFCiNsgNkouV92Bsiw8Sb4S7S_KJq6=Qc1ihHzA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwikksQEFCiNsgNkouV92Bsiw8Sb4S7S_KJq6=Qc1ihHzA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001d7d747$27c0de00$77429a00$@cox.net>

Did you replace the clutch disc?  Is it properly centered?

 

Is the new throwout bearing seizing on the snout/front transmission cover?

 

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2021 1:31 PM
To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>; PeterAra at msn.com
Subject: -- SPAM --[TR] Incantation

 

Greetings, listers!

 

I have now replaced the throwout bearing and sleeve on my OD transmission 

and am trying to re-mate it with the engine. It's been several days of jacking,

maneuvering and pushing the tranny, to no avail. One won't get closer than an 

inch to an inch-and-a-half to the other. Holes in the flanges of both line up, 

the engine and transmission seem to be on the same plane but that's as far 

as it goes. 

 

On what page of the manual is the incantation to speak over this effort?  
Must be spoken with a Limey accent, right?  :- )


Dave

'59 TR3A

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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Thu Nov 11 15:57:17 2021
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 14:57:17 -0800
Subject: [TR] Incantation
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwikksQEFCiNsgNkouV92Bsiw8Sb4S7S_KJq6=Qc1ihHzA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwikksQEFCiNsgNkouV92Bsiw8Sb4S7S_KJq6=Qc1ihHzA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <60911eaa-7570-e02a-ac58-9a2cfaf00c0e@gmail.com>

On 11/11/21 1:30 PM, David Friedlander wrote:

You used a clutch disc centering tool to align the clutch disc to the 
pilot bushing .. right? And maybe just a thin smear of grease on the 
leading edge of the? gearbox gears?? You have the bottom of the 
bellhousing sitting on a 2X4 over the crossmember. Otherwise just try to 
line it up as best as possible (It helps to have you looking down and a 
second person looking at the side). have the gearbox in 4th gear & when 
the shaft & disc splines touch, wiggle the rear output shaft a little to 
get the splines lined up. Maybe putting out a wee dram of Baleys the 
night before can't hurt and you can finish off whatever is left after 
the spline slides in.

TeriAnn
> On what page of the manual is the incantation to speak over this effort?
> Must be spoken with a Limey accent, right?? :- )
>
> Dave
> '59 TR3A
>
>
-- 

Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and 
Canada <http://overlandtravel.us>
2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write

*Because the world beckons and life waits for no one*
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Thu Nov 11 16:14:39 2021
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 18:14:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] Incantation
In-Reply-To: <60911eaa-7570-e02a-ac58-9a2cfaf00c0e@gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwikksQEFCiNsgNkouV92Bsiw8Sb4S7S_KJq6=Qc1ihHzA@mail.gmail.com>
 <60911eaa-7570-e02a-ac58-9a2cfaf00c0e@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwhk6aaO59F=ymZ0iA7V6kTTp5M=OKpLzosrrBQDxbnZdg@mail.gmail.com>

Do I need to align the clutch disc to the pilot bushing if
I never disassembled the clutch? I only worked on the
gearbox, not the clutch....

Dave

On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 5:57 PM TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
wrote:

> On 11/11/21 1:30 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
>
> You used a clutch disc centering tool to align the clutch disc to the
> pilot bushing .. right? And maybe just a thin smear of grease on the
> leading edge of the  gearbox gears?  You have the bottom of the bellhousing
> sitting on a 2X4 over the crossmember. Otherwise just try to line it up as
> best as possible (It helps to have you looking down and a second person
> looking at the side). have the gearbox in 4th gear & when the shaft & disc
> splines touch, wiggle the rear output shaft a little to get the splines
> lined up. Maybe putting out a wee dram of Baleys the night before can't
> hurt and you can finish off whatever is left after the spline slides in.
>
> TeriAnn
>
> On what page of the manual is the incantation to speak over this effort?
> Must be spoken with a Limey accent, right?  :- )
>
> Dave
> '59 TR3A
>
>
> --
>
> Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and
> Canada <http://overlandtravel.us>
> 2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write
>
> *Because the world beckons and life waits for no one*
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>
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From keithstewart at bell.net  Thu Nov 11 16:34:00 2021
From: keithstewart at bell.net (keithstewart at bell.net)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 18:34:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] LED Headlights
In-Reply-To: <2122008184.14697.1636662897388@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2122008184.14697.1636662897388.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2122008184.14697.1636662897388@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <063001d7d754$9aeda810$d0c8f830$@bell.net>

I second George?s recommendation. Classic Car LEDs (https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/) also offer complete sets of bulbs. They will adjust the bulb colour for those models that may have red/red or red/amber tail lights and white or amber turn signals. They offer a choice of hues and colours for dash and instrument bulbs. They are great to deal with and happy to adjust kits to fit your specific needs.

 

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net

 

 

 

From: George Haynes <ghaynestr4 at aol.com> 
Sent: November 11, 2021 3:35 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] LED Headlights

 

Time to toss in my 2 cents... 

 

I bought LED bulbs for my TR4A from Litezupp and installed them in the Hella lamp housings previously used 

for their H4 Halogen bulbs.

 

The Litezupp bulbs were very powerful.  Loved them!

They were advertised as having 2500 Lumens on High Beam and 2000 Lumens on Low Beam.

 

But there was no cutoff on low beam.  I only knew the difference by the blue Hi Beam lamp in my speedometer.

I decided I would not like to be approaching my own car in another vehicle at night.  I would have surely flashed my high beams.

 

So I sold them at the flea market in Carlisle, PA.  Virtually like new.

 

Then a friend recommended an LED lamp place in England.  Their website showed a distinct cutoff on low beam.

 

So I bought a pair.  As advertised, the new bulbs are both extremely bright, and also have a distinct cutoff on low beam.

 

I have yet to dial in the exact  alignment, but they are all I had hoped for!  

 

The business in England is:  Classic Car LED's Ltd (Sales at classiccarLED's.com.UK <mailto:Sales at classiccarLED's.com.UK> )

 

George Haynes

 

1965 TR4A  CTC 55423LO

  IRS, O/D, Surrey Top

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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Nov 11 16:59:48 2021
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 23:59:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Incantation
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwhk6aaO59F=ymZ0iA7V6kTTp5M=OKpLzosrrBQDxbnZdg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwikksQEFCiNsgNkouV92Bsiw8Sb4S7S_KJq6=Qc1ihHzA@mail.gmail.com>
 <60911eaa-7570-e02a-ac58-9a2cfaf00c0e@gmail.com>
 <CAJ1eQwhk6aaO59F=ymZ0iA7V6kTTp5M=OKpLzosrrBQDxbnZdg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <585763868.57204.1636675188364@mail.yahoo.com>

 then it should go right back in with just a little swearing in the ancient language
frank
    On Thursday, November 11, 2021, 03:15:29 PM PST, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Do I need to align the clutch disc to the pilot bushing ifI never disassembled the clutch? I only worked on the?gearbox, not the clutch....
Dave
On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 5:57 PM TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com> wrote:

  On 11/11/21 1:30 PM, David Friedlander wrote: 
  You used a clutch disc centering tool to align the clutch disc to the pilot bushing .. right? And maybe just a thin smear of grease on the leading edge of the? gearbox gears?? You have the bottom of the bellhousing sitting on a 2X4 over the crossmember. Otherwise just try to line it up as best as possible (It helps to have you looking down and a second person looking at the side). have the gearbox in 4th gear & when the shaft & disc splines touch, wiggle the rear output shaft a little to get the splines lined up. Maybe putting out a wee dram of Baleys the night before can't hurt and you can finish off whatever is left after the spline slides in. 
  TeriAnn
  
  On what page of the manual is the incantation to speak over this effort???
 Must be spoken with a Limey accent, right?? :- ) 
 Dave '59 TR3A  
 
 
 -- 
 
Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and Canada 
 2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write
 
 Because the world beckons and life waits for no one
  ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Thu Nov 11 17:11:57 2021
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 19:11:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] Incantation
In-Reply-To: <585763868.57204.1636675188364@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwikksQEFCiNsgNkouV92Bsiw8Sb4S7S_KJq6=Qc1ihHzA@mail.gmail.com>
 <60911eaa-7570-e02a-ac58-9a2cfaf00c0e@gmail.com>
 <CAJ1eQwhk6aaO59F=ymZ0iA7V6kTTp5M=OKpLzosrrBQDxbnZdg@mail.gmail.com>
 <585763868.57204.1636675188364@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwi33+TngCQ=vps5_q8v-rkecQem5O_Jf1g_kZt46-tyJQ@mail.gmail.com>

Exactly, Frank. A few candles, some incense, and an incantation in the
ancient language. I've checked the Bentley's and, for some
reason, it's not in there!

All I changed was the TO bearing. Why the wrestling match?

Dave






On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 6:59 PM Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> then it should go right back in with just a little swearing in the ancient
> language
>
> frank
>
> On Thursday, November 11, 2021, 03:15:29 PM PST, David Friedlander <
> forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Do I need to align the clutch disc to the pilot bushing if
> I never disassembled the clutch? I only worked on the
> gearbox, not the clutch....
>
> Dave
>
> On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 5:57 PM TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> On 11/11/21 1:30 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
>
> You used a clutch disc centering tool to align the clutch disc to the
> pilot bushing .. right? And maybe just a thin smear of grease on the
> leading edge of the  gearbox gears?  You have the bottom of the bellhousing
> sitting on a 2X4 over the crossmember. Otherwise just try to line it up as
> best as possible (It helps to have you looking down and a second person
> looking at the side). have the gearbox in 4th gear & when the shaft & disc
> splines touch, wiggle the rear output shaft a little to get the splines
> lined up. Maybe putting out a wee dram of Baleys the night before can't
> hurt and you can finish off whatever is left after the spline slides in.
>
> TeriAnn
>
> On what page of the manual is the incantation to speak over this effort?
> Must be spoken with a Limey accent, right?  :- )
>
> Dave
> '59 TR3A
>
>
> --
>
> Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and
> Canada <http://overlandtravel.us>
> 2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write
>
> *Because the world beckons and life waits for no one*
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
>
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From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu Nov 11 17:23:22 2021
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 18:23:22 -0600
Subject: [TR] Incantation
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwi33+TngCQ=vps5_q8v-rkecQem5O_Jf1g_kZt46-tyJQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwikksQEFCiNsgNkouV92Bsiw8Sb4S7S_KJq6=Qc1ihHzA@mail.gmail.com>
 <60911eaa-7570-e02a-ac58-9a2cfaf00c0e@gmail.com>
 <CAJ1eQwhk6aaO59F=ymZ0iA7V6kTTp5M=OKpLzosrrBQDxbnZdg@mail.gmail.com>
 <585763868.57204.1636675188364@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwi33+TngCQ=vps5_q8v-rkecQem5O_Jf1g_kZt46-tyJQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <82e36c82-c5b1-bbcb-7866-c97ba7aa97d5@tonydrews.com>

Even though the shaft won't turn, it sounds like the splines aren't 
aligned with the clutch disk.? Have the tranny in 4th gear when trying 
to mate them, jiggle the output of the trans to turn the input shaft.? 
It should just slide back together.

Regards, Tony

On 11/11/2021 6:11 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
> Exactly, Frank. A few candles, some incense, and an incantation in the
> ancient language. I've checked the Bentley's and, for some
> reason, it's not in there!
>
> All I changed was the TO bearing. Why the wrestling match?
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 6:59 PM Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>     then it should go right back in with just a little swearing in the
>     ancient language
>
>     frank
>
>     On Thursday, November 11, 2021, 03:15:29 PM PST, David Friedlander
>     <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>     Do I need to align the clutch disc to the pilot bushing if
>     I never disassembled the clutch? I only worked on the
>     gearbox, not the clutch....
>
>     Dave
>
>     On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 5:57 PM TeriAnn J. Wakeman
>     <tjwakeman at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>         On 11/11/21 1:30 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
>
>         You used a clutch disc centering tool to align the clutch disc
>         to the pilot bushing .. right? And maybe just a thin smear of
>         grease on the leading edge of the? gearbox gears?? You have
>         the bottom of the bellhousing sitting on a 2X4 over the
>         crossmember. Otherwise just try to line it up as best as
>         possible (It helps to have you looking down and a second
>         person looking at the side). have the gearbox in 4th gear &
>         when the shaft & disc splines touch, wiggle the rear output
>         shaft a little to get the splines lined up. Maybe putting out
>         a wee dram of Baleys the night before can't hurt and you can
>         finish off whatever is left after the spline slides in.
>
>         TeriAnn
>>         On what page of the manual is the incantation to speak over
>>         this effort?
>>         Must be spoken with a Limey accent, right?? :- )
>>
>>         Dave
>>         '59 TR3A
>>
>>
>         -- 
>
>         Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United
>         States and Canada <http://overlandtravel.us>
>         2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn
>         what to write
>
>         *Because the world beckons and life waits for no one*
>
>         ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>         http://www.team.net/archive
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>     http://www.team.net/archive
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
>
>
> **triumphs at autox.team.net  **
>
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs   http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com
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From wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net  Thu Nov 11 17:35:01 2021
From: wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net (Bill Babbitt)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 19:35:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] Incantation
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwi33+TngCQ=vps5_q8v-rkecQem5O_Jf1g_kZt46-tyJQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwi33+TngCQ=vps5_q8v-rkecQem5O_Jf1g_kZt46-tyJQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A3FDBB1C-562B-426C-A2B1-C886A5AA3DAC@sbcglobal.net>

Some 40+ years ago I helped a friend with a TR4 swap out a standard 4 speed for an overdrive transmission. 
Didn?t mess with the clutch, but couldn?t get the OD trans in. 
Ultimately had to recenter the clutch disc. 
Bob?s your uncle !! Slid right in !!
Apparently, the weight of the transmission (and our maneuvering it around) was enough to jog the clutch disc off center. 

thanks,
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 11, 2021, at 7:13 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Exactly, Frank. A few candles, some incense, and an incantation in the 
> ancient language. I've checked the Bentley's and, for some 
> reason, it's not in there!
> 
> All I changed was the TO bearing. Why the wrestling match?
> 
> Dave  
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
>> On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 6:59 PM Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:
>> then it should go right back in with just a little swearing in the ancient language
>> 
>> frank
>> 
>> On Thursday, November 11, 2021, 03:15:29 PM PST, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Do I need to align the clutch disc to the pilot bushing if
>> I never disassembled the clutch? I only worked on the 
>> gearbox, not the clutch....
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>> On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 5:57 PM TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com> wrote:
>> On 11/11/21 1:30 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
>> 
>> You used a clutch disc centering tool to align the clutch disc to the pilot bushing .. right? And maybe just a thin smear of grease on the leading edge of the  gearbox gears?  You have the bottom of the bellhousing sitting on a 2X4 over the crossmember. Otherwise just try to line it up as best as possible (It helps to have you looking down and a second person looking at the side). have the gearbox in 4th gear & when the shaft & disc splines touch, wiggle the rear output shaft a little to get the splines lined up. Maybe putting out a wee dram of Baleys the night before can't hurt and you can finish off whatever is left after the spline slides in.
>> 
>> TeriAnn
>>> On what page of the manual is the incantation to speak over this effort?  
>>> Must be spoken with a Limey accent, right?  :- )
>>> 
>>> Dave
>>> '59 TR3A
>>> 
>>> 
>> -- 
>> Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and Canada 
>> 2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write
>> 
>> Because the world beckons and life waits for no one
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Thu Nov 11 18:03:59 2021
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 20:03:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] Incantation
In-Reply-To: <82e36c82-c5b1-bbcb-7866-c97ba7aa97d5@tonydrews.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwikksQEFCiNsgNkouV92Bsiw8Sb4S7S_KJq6=Qc1ihHzA@mail.gmail.com>
 <60911eaa-7570-e02a-ac58-9a2cfaf00c0e@gmail.com>
 <CAJ1eQwhk6aaO59F=ymZ0iA7V6kTTp5M=OKpLzosrrBQDxbnZdg@mail.gmail.com>
 <585763868.57204.1636675188364@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwi33+TngCQ=vps5_q8v-rkecQem5O_Jf1g_kZt46-tyJQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <82e36c82-c5b1-bbcb-7866-c97ba7aa97d5@tonydrews.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwguz1J2VqOOJ2s1L0EHmw7+kVNwOEwkt_Dof1BEAjKQLQ@mail.gmail.com>

Sounds like a plan, Tony. Ill give it a try...

Thank you,

Dave

On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 7:23 PM Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> Even though the shaft won't turn, it sounds like the splines aren't
> aligned with the clutch disk.  Have the tranny in 4th gear when trying to
> mate them, jiggle the output of the trans to turn the input shaft.  It
> should just slide back together.
>
> Regards, Tony
> On 11/11/2021 6:11 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
>
> Exactly, Frank. A few candles, some incense, and an incantation in the
> ancient language. I've checked the Bentley's and, for some
> reason, it's not in there!
>
> All I changed was the TO bearing. Why the wrestling match?
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 6:59 PM Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> then it should go right back in with just a little swearing in the
>> ancient language
>>
>> frank
>>
>> On Thursday, November 11, 2021, 03:15:29 PM PST, David Friedlander <
>> forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Do I need to align the clutch disc to the pilot bushing if
>> I never disassembled the clutch? I only worked on the
>> gearbox, not the clutch....
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 5:57 PM TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> On 11/11/21 1:30 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
>>
>> You used a clutch disc centering tool to align the clutch disc to the
>> pilot bushing .. right? And maybe just a thin smear of grease on the
>> leading edge of the  gearbox gears?  You have the bottom of the bellhousing
>> sitting on a 2X4 over the crossmember. Otherwise just try to line it up as
>> best as possible (It helps to have you looking down and a second person
>> looking at the side). have the gearbox in 4th gear & when the shaft & disc
>> splines touch, wiggle the rear output shaft a little to get the splines
>> lined up. Maybe putting out a wee dram of Baleys the night before can't
>> hurt and you can finish off whatever is left after the spline slides in.
>>
>> TeriAnn
>>
>> On what page of the manual is the incantation to speak over this effort?
>> Must be spoken with a Limey accent, right?  :- )
>>
>> Dave
>> '59 TR3A
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and
>> Canada <http://overlandtravel.us>
>> 2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write
>>
>> *Because the world beckons and life waits for no one*
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
>>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com
>
>
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Nov 11 18:49:57 2021
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2021 01:49:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 issue
In-Reply-To: <000001d7d70c$4f43ecf0$edcbc6d0$@ranteer.com>
References: <000001d7d70c$4f43ecf0$edcbc6d0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <1749786662.73605.1636681797966@mail.yahoo.com>

 What is meant by "Engine uses a lot of oil?"? These things are notorious for using a lot of oil.? The factory once said that a quart every 600 miles is "normal."? But that was probably an effort to get out of some warranty work.? 

I seem to recall that a puff of blue smoke on acceleration was blow-by, (i.e. rings)

I rebuilt a TR6 engine that ran great but lost a quart every 300 miles.? A co-worker who used to work for TRW in the piston ring department said that I may have installed the rings upside down.? He said they were not symmetrical and applied more pressure on the bottom edge to better scrape any oil on the cylinder walls to reduce consumption.? 

I bought a used engine to drive while I rebuilt this one.? This used engine is still in the car 30 years later (I never rebuilt that engine) and looses a quart every 1300 miles or so.? Some times it is best to leave well enough alone.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Nov 11, 2021 8:56 am
Subject: [TR] TR6 issue

<!--#yiv3123217294 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv3123217294 #yiv3123217294 p.yiv3123217294MsoNormal, #yiv3123217294 li.yiv3123217294MsoNormal, #yiv3123217294 div.yiv3123217294MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv3123217294 span.yiv3123217294EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv3123217294 .yiv3123217294MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv3123217294 div.yiv3123217294WordSection1 {}-->I have a friend who has a 74 TR6.? Recent rebuild of the engine both top and bottom.? We are a little suspicious of the machine shop that did the head.? The bottom end was done a year later by a different machinist. ?All pollution stuff is gone. ?Compression across all 6 cylinders is within a couple PSI ?Leakdown test was a small % on all cylinders ?Engine uses a lot of oil and there is a blue puff when he accelerates or engine brakes ?We think its likely the valve guides are leaking. ?What do you think?** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Thu Nov 11 19:27:20 2021
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 18:27:20 -0800
Subject: [TR] Incantation
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwguz1J2VqOOJ2s1L0EHmw7+kVNwOEwkt_Dof1BEAjKQLQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwikksQEFCiNsgNkouV92Bsiw8Sb4S7S_KJq6=Qc1ihHzA@mail.gmail.com>
 <60911eaa-7570-e02a-ac58-9a2cfaf00c0e@gmail.com>
 <CAJ1eQwhk6aaO59F=ymZ0iA7V6kTTp5M=OKpLzosrrBQDxbnZdg@mail.gmail.com>
 <585763868.57204.1636675188364@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwi33+TngCQ=vps5_q8v-rkecQem5O_Jf1g_kZt46-tyJQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <82e36c82-c5b1-bbcb-7866-c97ba7aa97d5@tonydrews.com>
 <CAJ1eQwguz1J2VqOOJ2s1L0EHmw7+kVNwOEwkt_Dof1BEAjKQLQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaGMipOsf8CLz-kQvuvUzpMZ71R7u9smx74+t+hjFaoLoA@mail.gmail.com>

With Stags people use 3 inch long bolts between box and engine plate. Get
it almost square and slide them together.

On Thu, Nov 11, 2021, 5:04 PM David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Sounds like a plan, Tony. Ill give it a try...
>
> Thank you,
>
> Dave
>
> On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 7:23 PM Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:
>
>> Even though the shaft won't turn, it sounds like the splines aren't
>> aligned with the clutch disk.  Have the tranny in 4th gear when trying to
>> mate them, jiggle the output of the trans to turn the input shaft.  It
>> should just slide back together.
>>
>> Regards, Tony
>> On 11/11/2021 6:11 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
>>
>> Exactly, Frank. A few candles, some incense, and an incantation in the
>> ancient language. I've checked the Bentley's and, for some
>> reason, it's not in there!
>>
>> All I changed was the TO bearing. Why the wrestling match?
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 6:59 PM Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>> then it should go right back in with just a little swearing in the
>>> ancient language
>>>
>>> frank
>>>
>>> On Thursday, November 11, 2021, 03:15:29 PM PST, David Friedlander <
>>> forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Do I need to align the clutch disc to the pilot bushing if
>>> I never disassembled the clutch? I only worked on the
>>> gearbox, not the clutch....
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>> On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 5:57 PM TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> On 11/11/21 1:30 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
>>>
>>> You used a clutch disc centering tool to align the clutch disc to the
>>> pilot bushing .. right? And maybe just a thin smear of grease on the
>>> leading edge of the  gearbox gears?  You have the bottom of the bellhousing
>>> sitting on a 2X4 over the crossmember. Otherwise just try to line it up as
>>> best as possible (It helps to have you looking down and a second person
>>> looking at the side). have the gearbox in 4th gear & when the shaft & disc
>>> splines touch, wiggle the rear output shaft a little to get the splines
>>> lined up. Maybe putting out a wee dram of Baleys the night before can't
>>> hurt and you can finish off whatever is left after the spline slides in.
>>>
>>> TeriAnn
>>>
>>> On what page of the manual is the incantation to speak over this
>>> effort?
>>> Must be spoken with a Limey accent, right?  :- )
>>>
>>> Dave
>>> '59 TR3A
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and
>>> Canada <http://overlandtravel.us>
>>> 2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to
>>> write
>>>
>>> *Because the world beckons and life waits for no one*
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>>>
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
>>>
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>
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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Thu Nov 11 20:47:36 2021
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 19:47:36 -0800
Subject: [TR] Incantation
In-Reply-To: <82e36c82-c5b1-bbcb-7866-c97ba7aa97d5@tonydrews.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwikksQEFCiNsgNkouV92Bsiw8Sb4S7S_KJq6=Qc1ihHzA@mail.gmail.com>
 <60911eaa-7570-e02a-ac58-9a2cfaf00c0e@gmail.com>
 <CAJ1eQwhk6aaO59F=ymZ0iA7V6kTTp5M=OKpLzosrrBQDxbnZdg@mail.gmail.com>
 <585763868.57204.1636675188364@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwi33+TngCQ=vps5_q8v-rkecQem5O_Jf1g_kZt46-tyJQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <82e36c82-c5b1-bbcb-7866-c97ba7aa97d5@tonydrews.com>
Message-ID: <fc0b11c0-e0c1-7f37-877f-25d18d53b642@gmail.com>

I suspect the gearbox shaft pushed the disc slightly out of alignment as 
it came out

Never hurts to see if the alignment tool slides in. Only takes a second 
or so.

TeriAnn

On 11/11/21 4:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote:
>
> Even though the shaft won't turn, it sounds like the splines aren't 
> aligned with the clutch disk.? Have the tranny in 4th gear when trying 
> to mate them, jiggle the output of the trans to turn the input shaft.? 
> It should just slide back together.
>
> Regards, Tony
>
> On 11/11/2021 6:11 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
>> Exactly, Frank. A few candles, some incense, and an incantation in the
>> ancient language. I've checked the Bentley's and, for some
>> reason, it's not in there!
>>
>> All I changed was the TO bearing. Why the wrestling match?
>>
>> Dave
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From sackirby at chinaautogroup.com  Thu Nov 11 20:49:28 2021
From: sackirby at chinaautogroup.com (Steve Kirby)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2021 03:49:28 +0000
Subject: [TR] Incantation
In-Reply-To: <fc0b11c0-e0c1-7f37-877f-25d18d53b642@gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwikksQEFCiNsgNkouV92Bsiw8Sb4S7S_KJq6=Qc1ihHzA@mail.gmail.com>
 <60911eaa-7570-e02a-ac58-9a2cfaf00c0e@gmail.com>
 <CAJ1eQwhk6aaO59F=ymZ0iA7V6kTTp5M=OKpLzosrrBQDxbnZdg@mail.gmail.com>
 <585763868.57204.1636675188364@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwi33+TngCQ=vps5_q8v-rkecQem5O_Jf1g_kZt46-tyJQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <82e36c82-c5b1-bbcb-7866-c97ba7aa97d5@tonydrews.com>,
 <fc0b11c0-e0c1-7f37-877f-25d18d53b642@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AD43B796-5D35-4593-9E70-29071D9272C1@chinaautogroup.com>

The best advice.  Don?t fight it. Try it

Steve Kirby

On Nov 11, 2021, at 7:48 PM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com> wrote:

?
I suspect the gearbox shaft pushed the disc slightly out of alignment as it came out

Never hurts to see if the alignment tool slides in. Only takes a second or so.

TeriAnn

On 11/11/21 4:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote:

Even though the shaft won't turn, it sounds like the splines aren't aligned with the clutch disk.  Have the tranny in 4th gear when trying to mate them, jiggle the output of the trans to turn the input shaft.  It should just slide back together.

Regards, Tony

On 11/11/2021 6:11 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
Exactly, Frank. A few candles, some incense, and an incantation in the
ancient language. I've checked the Bentley's and, for some
reason, it's not in there!

All I changed was the TO bearing. Why the wrestling match?

Dave

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Nov 12 07:29:50 2021
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2021 08:29:50 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 issue
In-Reply-To: <1749786662.73605.1636681797966@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <000001d7d70c$4f43ecf0$edcbc6d0$@ranteer.com>
 <1749786662.73605.1636681797966@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <008c01d7d7d1$c066d3a0$41347ae0$@ranteer.com>

How about a quart per fillup?

 

And I totally disagree that these engines need to use oil.  My engine was rebuilt by an excellent mechanic, and it uses practically no oil.  

 

I almost never have to add oil.  And we drive it hard.  

 

 

From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> 
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2021 7:50 PM
To: dave at ranteer.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 issue

 

What is meant by "Engine uses a lot of oil?"  These things are notorious for using a lot of oil.  The factory once said that a quart every 600 miles is "normal."  But that was probably an effort to get out of some warranty work.  

 

I seem to recall that a puff of blue smoke on acceleration was blow-by, (i.e. rings)

 

I rebuilt a TR6 engine that ran great but lost a quart every 300 miles.  A co-worker who used to work for TRW in the piston ring department said that I may have installed the rings upside down.  He said they were not symmetrical and applied more pressure on the bottom edge to better scrape any oil on the cylinder walls to reduce consumption.  

 

I bought a used engine to drive while I rebuilt this one.  This used engine is still in the car 30 years later (I never rebuilt that engine) and looses a quart every 1300 miles or so.  Some times it is best to leave well enough alone.

 

Dave 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: dave <dave at ranteer.com <mailto:dave at ranteer.com> >
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thu, Nov 11, 2021 8:56 am
Subject: [TR] TR6 issue

I have a friend who has a 74 TR6.  Recent rebuild of the engine both top and bottom.  We are a little suspicious of the machine shop that did the head.  The bottom end was done a year later by a different machinist.

 

All pollution stuff is gone.

 

Compression across all 6 cylinders is within a couple PSI

 

Leakdown test was a small % on all cylinders

 

Engine uses a lot of oil and there is a blue puff when he accelerates or engine brakes

 

We think its likely the valve guides are leaking.

 

What do you think?

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Nov 12 07:47:31 2021
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2021 14:47:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 issue
In-Reply-To: <008c01d7d7d1$c066d3a0$41347ae0$@ranteer.com>
References: <000001d7d70c$4f43ecf0$edcbc6d0$@ranteer.com>
 <1749786662.73605.1636681797966@mail.yahoo.com>
 <008c01d7d7d1$c066d3a0$41347ae0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <536171933.155465.1636728451806@mail.yahoo.com>

 A quart per fill-up ain't normal.? That's what mine was doing and I took it back apart because of that.? You may need to have words with the engine rebuilder.
And, like I said, it was the factory trying to avoid some warranty work.? I agree, adding more than a quart in between oil change is not what it could be.? 
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Nov 12, 2021 8:29 am
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 issue

<!--#yiv7169711364 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv7169711364 #yiv7169711364 p.yiv7169711364MsoNormal, #yiv7169711364 li.yiv7169711364MsoNormal, #yiv7169711364 div.yiv7169711364MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv7169711364 a:link, #yiv7169711364 span.yiv7169711364MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7169711364 span.yiv7169711364EmailStyle26 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv7169711364 .yiv7169711364MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv7169711364 div.yiv7169711364WordSection1 {}-->How about a quart per fillup? ?And I totally disagree that these engines need to use oil.? My engine was rebuilt by an excellent mechanic, and it uses practically no oil.?  ?I almost never have to add oil.? And we drive it hard.?  ? ?From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> 
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2021 7:50 PM
To: dave at ranteer.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 issue ?What is meant by "Engine uses a lot of oil?"? These things are notorious for using a lot of oil.? The factory once said that a quart every 600 miles is "normal."? But that was probably an effort to get out of some warranty work.?  ?I seem to recall that a puff of blue smoke on acceleration was blow-by, (i.e. rings) ?I rebuilt a TR6 engine that ran great but lost a quart every 300 miles.? A co-worker who used to work for TRW in the piston ring department said that I may have installed the rings upside down.? He said they were not symmetrical and applied more pressure on the bottom edge to better scrape any oil on the cylinder walls to reduce consumption.?  ?I bought a used engine to drive while I rebuilt this one.? This used engine is still in the car 30 years later (I never rebuilt that engine) and looses a quart every 1300 miles or so.? Some times it is best to leave well enough alone. ?Dave  ? ?-----Original Message-----
From: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Nov 11, 2021 8:56 am
Subject: [TR] TR6 issueI have a friend who has a 74 TR6.? Recent rebuild of the engine both top and bottom.? We are a little suspicious of the machine shop that did the head.? The bottom end was done a year later by a different machinist.?All pollution stuff is gone.?Compression across all 6 cylinders is within a couple PSI?Leakdown test was a small % on all cylinders?Engine uses a lot of oil and there is a blue puff when he accelerates or engine brakes?We think its likely the valve guides are leaking.?What do you think?** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Fri Nov 12 07:47:55 2021
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2021 08:47:55 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 issue
In-Reply-To: <008c01d7d7d1$c066d3a0$41347ae0$@ranteer.com>
References: <008c01d7d7d1$c066d3a0$41347ae0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <A1A9DA5A-9C19-4E84-936C-B93E72299609@yahoo.com>

I have a 66 TR4 motor in my TR3, never add oil between changes, no leaks. 
Bill B
TS30800L

?Last night I saw upon the stair,
A little man who wasn't there,
He wasn't there again today
Oh, how I wish he'd go away?.... Mearns

On Nov 12, 2021, at 8:29 AM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

?
How about a quart per fillup?
 
And I totally disagree that these engines need to use oil.  My engine was rebuilt by an excellent mechanic, and it uses practically no oil. 
 
I almost never have to add oil.  And we drive it hard. 
 
 
From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> 
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2021 7:50 PM
To: dave at ranteer.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 issue
 
What is meant by "Engine uses a lot of oil?"  These things are notorious for using a lot of oil.  The factory once said that a quart every 600 miles is "normal."  But that was probably an effort to get out of some warranty work. 
 
I seem to recall that a puff of blue smoke on acceleration was blow-by, (i.e. rings)
 
I rebuilt a TR6 engine that ran great but lost a quart every 300 miles.  A co-worker who used to work for TRW in the piston ring department said that I may have installed the rings upside down.  He said they were not symmetrical and applied more pressure on the bottom edge to better scrape any oil on the cylinder walls to reduce consumption. 
 
I bought a used engine to drive while I rebuilt this one.  This used engine is still in the car 30 years later (I never rebuilt that engine) and looses a quart every 1300 miles or so.  Some times it is best to leave well enough alone.
 
Dave

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Nov 11, 2021 8:56 am
Subject: [TR] TR6 issue

I have a friend who has a 74 TR6.  Recent rebuild of the engine both top and bottom.  We are a little suspicious of the machine shop that did the head.  The bottom end was done a year later by a different machinist.
 
All pollution stuff is gone.
 
Compression across all 6 cylinders is within a couple PSI
 
Leakdown test was a small % on all cylinders
 
Engine uses a lot of oil and there is a blue puff when he accelerates or engine brakes
 
We think its likely the valve guides are leaking.
 
What do you think?
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

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From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Nov 12 10:43:58 2021
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2021 10:43:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Incantation
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwikksQEFCiNsgNkouV92Bsiw8Sb4S7S_KJq6=Qc1ihHzA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwikksQEFCiNsgNkouV92Bsiw8Sb4S7S_KJq6=Qc1ihHzA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <92980c50-3a8a-f3c7-6619-69739fe78619@bradakis.com>

In one of Carroll Smith's "<...> to Win" books he tells a story of a 
late night before the morning race where he and another guy put a 
transmission back in a car.? They get it all in place, ready to wrestle 
with it to get it to mate with the engine, and wham!? It slides right 
in, first time, perfectly.? They look at each other and both come to the 
conclusion they forgot to put the spigot bushing in.? They've done this 
before, transmissions don't just slide into place in seconds.

So, they remove the transmission, take a look and the spigot bush is, 
indeed, right where it should be, not left on the bench.? So they go to 
put the gearbox back into place, and as you might have guessed, it takes 
hours to get it lined up and in place again.

mjb.



From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com  Fri Nov 12 10:55:45 2021
From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2021 17:55:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 (oil consumption)
References: <682884890.1156294.1636739745077.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <682884890.1156294.1636739745077@mail.yahoo.com>

Hi,
If your compression and leak down numbers are good, you could have a valve guide problem. BUT, you should put a vacuum gauge on that engine to see what sort of vacuum you are pulling. If your ignition timing is way off, it is possible that the resulting vacuum is the source. Also, you mention "all the pollution stuff is gone" - that's a red flag to me. The 74 had the following: crankcase ventilation, e.g. positive crankcase ventilation aka PCV, Exhaust gas recirculation aka EGR, evaporative emmission control or the carbon canister and related parts and finally ignition timing retard for idle emissions. Of those, the only one that would effect performance in any way is the ignition timing retard.
That said, if you have a high vacuum state and loose valve stems, it is possible that you are sucking oil down the intake valve guides. If that is the case, you will see either black or wet plugs or in some cases if you peek into the spark plug hole you can see carbon deposits on the valve or valves that are leaking.
IF you can isolate the problem to the valve guides, it is possible to install valve guide seals without pulling the head. It's not that hard to do. I did this on a car earlier this year and it solved the problem. I made a tool to compress the valve spring while I used my leak-down tester to pressurize the cylinder - you can use the rope trick too - to keep the valve from falling down into the cylinder.
Regards,Bob Lang

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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Fri Nov 12 10:57:30 2021
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2021 12:57:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Incantation
In-Reply-To: <92980c50-3a8a-f3c7-6619-69739fe78619@bradakis.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwikksQEFCiNsgNkouV92Bsiw8Sb4S7S_KJq6=Qc1ihHzA@mail.gmail.com>
 <92980c50-3a8a-f3c7-6619-69739fe78619@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwi8hQOOpvEdQoBaEqkzb9DKHBgX-J9qM4K7BF0LocWNEA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks, Mark. The story is, strangely, a source of consolation....  :- )

Dave



On Fri, Nov 12, 2021 at 12:46 PM Mark Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> In one of Carroll Smith's "<...> to Win" books he tells a story of a
> late night before the morning race where he and another guy put a
> transmission back in a car.  They get it all in place, ready to wrestle
> with it to get it to mate with the engine, and wham!  It slides right
> in, first time, perfectly.  They look at each other and both come to the
> conclusion they forgot to put the spigot bushing in.  They've done this
> before, transmissions don't just slide into place in seconds.
>
> So, they remove the transmission, take a look and the spigot bush is,
> indeed, right where it should be, not left on the bench.  So they go to
> put the gearbox back into place, and as you might have guessed, it takes
> hours to get it lined up and in place again.
>
> mjb.
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>
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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Fri Nov 12 11:08:54 2021
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2021 10:08:54 -0800
Subject: [TR] leds for gauges and external lights TR6
In-Reply-To: <emf9ab811d-c339-4d5e-9bb5-82a4f7cfc644@laptop-lkrq9kmj>
References: <emf9ab811d-c339-4d5e-9bb5-82a4f7cfc644@laptop-lkrq9kmj>
Message-ID: <5ad84823-15b6-8f94-ac1f-b07ec5f5cf32@earthlink.net>

Regarding gauges lights being dim - have you checked the dash light 
dimmer switch?? That was my problem years ago.? I twisted it back and 
forth a bunch of times and that fixed it.? It is a rotary rheostat and 
you may have some corrosion adding resistance.

Brian

On 11/10/2021 7:00 AM, Tim Gaines wrote:
> I have been away from the Triumphs list for awhile, so I apologize if 
> my question has been discussed previously. I had my TR6 up on the Blue 
> Ridge Parkway in NC yesterday (2.5 hr destination) and was stranded 
> for a time at the end when the oil pressure switch failed and spewed 
> all my oil away! After a tow the AAA Service Center in Asheville gave 
> me 4 quarts of oil, and a service guy watched under the hood as I 
> cranked the engine. He saw the problem, the engine sounded good still, 
> and I replaced the switch with a bolt and made it home, much of the 
> drive in the dark. By the way, great folks at AAA. They charged me 
> nothing, even for the oil. That brings me to my question.
>
> I could barely see my gauges in the interstate traffic, and I feared 
> that my external lights were very dim compared to the modern cars 
> around me. So now I'm online ordering the oil switch and looking at 
> LED bulb replacements. There are multiple bulb kits for some makes on 
> Moss, but I don't see one for TR6. Have any of you found such kits and 
> had success with the brightness? If not with kits, what individual 
> bulb replacements are good?
>
> Thanks,
> Tim
>
>
> **triumphs at autox.team.net  **
>
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs   http://www.team.net/archive
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Nov 12 12:05:20 2021
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2021 19:05:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Incantation
In-Reply-To: <92980c50-3a8a-f3c7-6619-69739fe78619@bradakis.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwikksQEFCiNsgNkouV92Bsiw8Sb4S7S_KJq6=Qc1ihHzA@mail.gmail.com>
 <92980c50-3a8a-f3c7-6619-69739fe78619@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <974658645.206127.1636743920630@mail.yahoo.com>

 I was swapping the transmission on a friend's TR7.? I wrestled with it all morning (those things are not light).? Finally he says "Lets stop for lunch."? After lunch I climbed back under the car and voi la, it slipped right in.? 

Trying to get a 100 lb part perfectly aligned in a tight space is more luck than anything.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Nov 12, 2021 11:43 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Incantation

In one of Carroll Smith's "<...> to Win" books he tells a story of a 
late night before the morning race where he and another guy put a 
transmission back in a car.? They get it all in place, ready to wrestle 
with it to get it to mate with the engine, and wham!? It slides right 
in, first time, perfectly.? They look at each other and both come to the 
conclusion they forgot to put the spigot bushing in.? They've done this 
before, transmissions don't just slide into place in seconds.

So, they remove the transmission, take a look and the spigot bush is, 
indeed, right where it should be, not left on the bench.? So they go to 
put the gearbox back into place, and as you might have guessed, it takes 
hours to get it lined up and in place again.

mjb.


** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From hdrider570 at att.net  Fri Nov 12 12:23:23 2021
From: hdrider570 at att.net (Edward Hamer)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2021 19:23:23 +0000
Subject: [TR] Ref incantation
References: <DM6PR14MB21382718A8F34A10485D563EAC959.ref@DM6PR14MB2138.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR14MB21382718A8F34A10485D563EAC959@DM6PR14MB2138.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>

I have had this issue several times.  Tha input shift is not entering the pilot bearing.  The alignment has to be almost perfect.

Use a couple of extra long bolts with the heads cut off.  Once the tranny is close walk around to the rear of the engine compartment and look down the firewall to see how well the Trans flange and the engine plate are aligned.

I usually use a jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan to lift the rear of the engine up and place a long rod or similar under the rear of the Trans.  Once the engine/turns are paralleled they will slide together with no issues.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

Sent from my T-Mobile 5G Device
Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Fri Nov 12 12:27:39 2021
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2021 14:27:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] Ref incantation
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR14MB21382718A8F34A10485D563EAC959@DM6PR14MB2138.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM6PR14MB21382718A8F34A10485D563EAC959.ref@DM6PR14MB2138.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
 <DM6PR14MB21382718A8F34A10485D563EAC959@DM6PR14MB2138.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwgzEzWzTe7MWFqMUp_=my+uN0dtvdKf2iCKdmAG+7eP9Q@mail.gmail.com>

*"Once the engine/turns are paralleled they will slide together with no
issues."*

So, I have heard, Ed. It just has not yet worked out that way for me....



On Fri, Nov 12, 2021 at 2:23 PM Edward Hamer <hdrider570 at att.net> wrote:

> I have had this issue several times.  Tha input shift is not entering the
> pilot bearing.  The alignment has to be almost perfect.
>
> Use a couple of extra long bolts with the heads cut off.  Once the tranny
> is close walk around to the rear of the engine compartment and look down
> the firewall to see how well the Trans flange and the engine plate are
> aligned.
>
> I usually use a jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan to lift the
> rear of the engine up and place a long rod or similar under the rear of the
> Trans.  Once the engine/turns are paralleled they will slide together with
> no issues.
>
> Edward Hamer
> Petaluma CA
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 5G Device
> Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>
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From hdrider570 at att.net  Fri Nov 12 14:00:36 2021
From: hdrider570 at att.net (Edward Hamer)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2021 21:00:36 +0000
Subject: [TR] Ref incantation
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwgzEzWzTe7MWFqMUp_=my+uN0dtvdKf2iCKdmAG+7eP9Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <DM6PR14MB21382718A8F34A10485D563EAC959.ref@DM6PR14MB2138.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
 <DM6PR14MB21382718A8F34A10485D563EAC959@DM6PR14MB2138.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJ1eQwgzEzWzTe7MWFqMUp_=my+uN0dtvdKf2iCKdmAG+7eP9Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR14MB2138869D4A51430CF58AD692AC959@DM6PR14MB2138.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>

You just have to persevier. It is surprising how far out of paralleled you can be if you only look from the rear forward.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

Sent from my T-Mobile 5G Device
Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
________________________________
From: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, November 12, 2021 11:27:39 AM
To: Edward Hamer <hdrider570 at att.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Ref incantation

"Once the engine/turns are paralleled they will slide together with no issues."

So, I have heard, Ed. It just has not yet worked out that way for me....



On Fri, Nov 12, 2021 at 2:23 PM Edward Hamer <hdrider570 at att.net<mailto:hdrider570 at att.net>> wrote:
I have had this issue several times.  Tha input shift is not entering the pilot bearing.  The alignment has to be almost perfect.

Use a couple of extra long bolts with the heads cut off.  Once the tranny is close walk around to the rear of the engine compartment and look down the firewall to see how well the Trans flange and the engine plate are aligned.

I usually use a jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan to lift the rear of the engine up and place a long rod or similar under the rear of the Trans.  Once the engine/turns are paralleled they will slide together with no issues.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

Sent from my T-Mobile 5G Device
Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From grglmn at gmail.com  Fri Nov 12 18:20:29 2021
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2021 19:20:29 -0600
Subject: [TR] Ref incantation
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwgzEzWzTe7MWFqMUp_=my+uN0dtvdKf2iCKdmAG+7eP9Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <DM6PR14MB21382718A8F34A10485D563EAC959.ref@DM6PR14MB2138.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
 <DM6PR14MB21382718A8F34A10485D563EAC959@DM6PR14MB2138.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJ1eQwgzEzWzTe7MWFqMUp_=my+uN0dtvdKf2iCKdmAG+7eP9Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aZYbumr5Kcg6cEoyUiLcR4GtR-pVdpHjniwRdGiawJRKQ@mail.gmail.com>

I take a cruder approach, but it has been fairly effective, get the thing
started and propped up.  Assuming your seats are removed sit on the prop
shaft tunnel, push the front lip of the transmission forward with your feet
while manipulating the end of the transmission and turning the tail shaft
with your hand.  A little fettling and with any luck you will quickly find
the sweet spot and it will slide right in and you get that satisfying clunk
when it hits home.


Greg Lemon
TR250

On Fri, Nov 12, 2021, 1:28 PM David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:

> *"Once the engine/turns are paralleled they will slide together with no
> issues."*
>
> So, I have heard, Ed. It just has not yet worked out that way for me....
>
>
>
> On Fri, Nov 12, 2021 at 2:23 PM Edward Hamer <hdrider570 at att.net> wrote:
>
>> I have had this issue several times.  Tha input shift is not entering the
>> pilot bearing.  The alignment has to be almost perfect.
>>
>> Use a couple of extra long bolts with the heads cut off.  Once the tranny
>> is close walk around to the rear of the engine compartment and look down
>> the firewall to see how well the Trans flange and the engine plate are
>> aligned.
>>
>> I usually use a jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan to lift the
>> rear of the engine up and place a long rod or similar under the rear of the
>> Trans.  Once the engine/turns are paralleled they will slide together with
>> no issues.
>>
>> Edward Hamer
>> Petaluma CA
>>
>> Sent from my T-Mobile 5G Device
>> Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Nov 13 06:34:00 2021
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2021 08:34:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] Ref incantation
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aZYbumr5Kcg6cEoyUiLcR4GtR-pVdpHjniwRdGiawJRKQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <DM6PR14MB21382718A8F34A10485D563EAC959.ref@DM6PR14MB2138.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
 <DM6PR14MB21382718A8F34A10485D563EAC959@DM6PR14MB2138.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJ1eQwgzEzWzTe7MWFqMUp_=my+uN0dtvdKf2iCKdmAG+7eP9Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFtw3aZYbumr5Kcg6cEoyUiLcR4GtR-pVdpHjniwRdGiawJRKQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <d4b36a5f-8d73-1ef9-a027-030908b9e62a@adelphia.net>

I have been reading all the posts on this topic all week.

I was fortunate to have an input shaft that I sourced at a junk yard 
over 50 years ago. I used this shaft to align the clutch and have never 
had any problems described in all the posts.

Was I just lucky? I dont think so.

One of these days the shaft will end up at 
https://britishautosalvage.com/index.html. So far I have delivered 3 
truck loads of spares and will continue until all my spares find their 
new home.

I still have a cellar and garage attic full to go but I am making 
progress. My restoration days are long over.

Bob


From henningj at cf.edu  Fri Nov  5 12:25:43 2021
From: henningj at cf.edu (Henningsen, James D.)
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2021 18:25:43 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 Zenith Stromberg Carbs
Message-ID: <0BA50FE2-9F62-4807-8FF7-7655127077EE@cf.edu>

Ok, it?s been a while since I?ve adjusted the mixture on my ZS 175 CD-2 carbs on my TR6.  I have the adjustable B1AF needles,  removed damper from carb body, removed the fixing screw from the piston damper side.  I insert the special tool into the damper tube to turn the needle assembly and it engages the hex socket hole.  I can rotate left and right but it doesn?t move the height of the needle face on the bottom of the damper no matter which way I turn.    If I pull the needle down from the damper to its lowest spring position and then turn left or right, the needle seat height does move up and down.   I don?t recall having to hold the needle out to adjust mixture.  I also can?t easily find the fully lean or rich stop points easily.  Ten turns seems a bit much.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated.  Trying to get my refreshed 6 back on the road from a major engine drivetrain upgrade. Thanks I advance 

Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Thu Nov 11 15:12:26 2021
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 17:12:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] [NET] Incantation
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwg47cU+fz=SKk9_VozYWzdNuK+geH-G8MWz+sAhpNbkMA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwg47cU+fz=SKk9_VozYWzdNuK+geH-G8MWz+sAhpNbkMA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B83D62AA-869C-4B22-85E1-CF3FF2E1E241@fuse.net>

Dave,
Here is what I have done to install my transmission and it can be done by yourself. 
1. From the rear of the engine, remove that top center stud that bolts the transmission to the block. Take it to your local hardware store and buy the longest bolt you can find in that thread size. 
2.  Cut the head off the long bolt you just bought and round that end so you end up with a stud and screw that into that upper center hole in the block.
3. Position the transmission so you can slide ii on to that stud and push it forward. The transmission input shaft will be lined up with the clutch disk and you should just have to rotate the driveshaft yoke to send it home.
Dave Connitt 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 11, 2021, at 4:56 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Thanks for the feedback thus far, gentlemen.
>  
> My effort only included the transmission. I didn't service or 
> disassemble the clutch at all. I only replaced the throw-out 
> bearing, the sleeve for the TO bearing, the fork and pin and 
> the cross-shaft bushings. The output  shaft will now not 
> turn when in gear, signifying to me that the input shaft has 
> now aligned with the splines in the clutch.
> 
> Dave
> 
>> On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 4:41 PM Philip Gott <vfracing at aol.com> wrote:
>> Dave;
>> We?ve found that standing on your head while you turn the tail shaft a little bit at a time  with the transmission in gear helps to align the splines on the input shaft with the clutch. (You did first align the clutch with the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft, right? If you took it apart and did not touch the clutch, you?re ok on this already. ) also try rotating the transmission about the input shaft axis a bit. That helps to align the splines.
>> Good luck!
>> Phil G
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Nov 11, 2021, at 4:32 PM, David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:
>>>> 
>>> ?
>>> Greetings, listers!
>>> 
>>> I have now replaced the throwout bearing and sleeve on my OD transmission 
>>> and am trying to re-mate it with the engine. It's been several days of jacking,
>>> maneuvering and pushing the tranny, to no avail. One won't get closer than an 
>>> inch to an inch-and-a-half to the other. Holes in the flanges of both line up, 
>>> the engine and transmission seem to be on the same plane but that's as far 
>>> as it goes. 
>>> 
>>> On what page of the manual is the incantation to speak over this effort?  
>>> Must be spoken with a Limey accent, right?  :- )
>>> 
>>> Dave
>>> '59 TR3A
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> NET mailing list
>>> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
>>> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Thu Nov 11 15:20:54 2021
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2021 17:20:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] [NET] Incantation
In-Reply-To: <B83D62AA-869C-4B22-85E1-CF3FF2E1E241@fuse.net>
References: <CAJ1eQwg47cU+fz=SKk9_VozYWzdNuK+geH-G8MWz+sAhpNbkMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <B83D62AA-869C-4B22-85E1-CF3FF2E1E241@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwiGG2VKa675RYCXXLEeC_5Z5GTA2i_q3rwjFBSSH2Kq6w@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks, David. I'll give that a try. I haven't tried  to move the yoke
any while pushing in on the tranny but I'll try doing that while also
giving the guide-bolt a try.I don't want to be putting too much
stress on the flange of a cast aluminum bell housing though...

Dave

On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 5:12 PM Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:

> Dave,
> Here is what I have done to install my transmission and it can be done by
> yourself.
> 1. From the rear of the engine, remove that top center stud that bolts the
> transmission to the block. Take it to your local hardware store and buy the
> longest bolt you can find in that thread size.
> 2.  Cut the head off the long bolt you just bought and round that end so
> you end up with a stud and screw that into that upper center hole in the
> block.
> 3. Position the transmission so you can slide ii on to that stud and push
> it forward. The transmission input shaft will be lined up with the clutch
> disk and you should just have to rotate the driveshaft yoke to send it home.
> Dave Connitt
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 11, 2021, at 4:56 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
> Thanks for the feedback thus far, gentlemen.
>
> My effort only included the transmission. I didn't service or
> disassemble the clutch at all. I only replaced the throw-out
> bearing, the sleeve for the TO bearing, the fork and pin and
> the cross-shaft bushings. The output  shaft will now not
> turn when in gear, signifying to me that the input shaft has
> now aligned with the splines in the clutch.
>
> Dave
>
> On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 4:41 PM Philip Gott <vfracing at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Dave;
>> We?ve found that standing on your head while you turn the tail shaft a
>> little bit at a time  with the transmission in gear helps to align the
>> splines on the input shaft with the clutch. (You did first align the clutch
>> with the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft, right? If you took it
>> apart and did not touch the clutch, you?re ok on this already. ) also try
>> rotating the transmission about the input shaft axis a bit. That helps to
>> align the splines.
>> Good luck!
>> Phil G
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Nov 11, 2021, at 4:32 PM, David Friedlander via NET <
>> net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> Greetings, listers!
>>
>> I have now replaced the throwout bearing and sleeve on my OD transmission
>> and am trying to re-mate it with the engine. It's been several days of
>> jacking,
>> maneuvering and pushing the tranny, to no avail. One won't get closer
>> than an
>> inch to an inch-and-a-half to the other. Holes in the flanges of both
>> line up,
>> the engine and transmission seem to be on the same plane but that's as
>> far
>> as it goes.
>>
>> On what page of the manual is the incantation to speak over this effort?
>> Must be spoken with a Limey accent, right?  :- )
>>
>> Dave
>> '59 TR3A
>> _______________________________________________
>> NET mailing list
>> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
>> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net
>
>
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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Fri Nov 12 06:20:37 2021
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2021 08:20:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] [NET] Incantation
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwg47cU+fz=SKk9_VozYWzdNuK+geH-G8MWz+sAhpNbkMA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwikksQEFCiNsgNkouV92Bsiw8Sb4S7S_KJq6=Qc1ihHzA@mail.gmail.com>
 <BE0A0CF8-B2C7-4BB9-8025-FB92AD7AA700@aol.com>
 <CAJ1eQwg47cU+fz=SKk9_VozYWzdNuK+geH-G8MWz+sAhpNbkMA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000301d7d7c8$156ff9d0$404fed70$@charter.net>

And just envision doing this with two halves of a farm tractor. Front axle and engine with flywheel at the front and transmission and final drives at the back end, all weighing about 12 ? 15 thousand pounds combined. But the method is the same ? proper alignment, a gentle touch (with the help of wheeled splitting stands), and lots of patience. Plus, the same rule still applies ? never bring both halves together with force from the attaching bolts.

 

Alex Thomson

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2021 4:52 PM
To: Philip Gott
Cc: TR3 Triumphs; New England Triumphs; PeterAra at msn.com
Subject: Re: [TR] [NET] Incantation

 

Thanks for the feedback thus far, gentlemen.

 

My effort only included the transmission. I didn't service or 

disassemble the clutch at all. I only replaced the throw-out 

bearing, the sleeve for the TO bearing, the fork and pin and 

the cross-shaft bushings. The output  shaft will now not 

turn when in gear, signifying to me that the input shaft has 

now aligned with the splines in the clutch.

 

Dave

 

On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 4:41 PM Philip Gott <vfracing at aol.com> wrote:

Dave;

We?ve found that standing on your head while you turn the tail shaft a little bit at a time  with the transmission in gear helps to align the splines on the input shaft with the clutch. (You did first align the clutch with the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft, right? If you took it apart and did not touch the clutch, you?re ok on this already. ) also try rotating the transmission about the input shaft axis a bit. That helps to align the splines.

Good luck!

Phil G

Sent from my iPhone





On Nov 11, 2021, at 4:32 PM, David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:

?

Greetings, listers!

 

I have now replaced the throwout bearing and sleeve on my OD transmission 

and am trying to re-mate it with the engine. It's been several days of jacking,

maneuvering and pushing the tranny, to no avail. One won't get closer than an 

inch to an inch-and-a-half to the other. Holes in the flanges of both line up, 

the engine and transmission seem to be on the same plane but that's as far 

as it goes. 

 

On what page of the manual is the incantation to speak over this effort?  
Must be spoken with a Limey accent, right?  :- )


Dave

'59 TR3A

_______________________________________________
NET mailing list
NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org

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From cliff_hansen at outlook.com  Mon Nov 15 13:13:55 2021
From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2021 20:13:55 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4A project for sale
Message-ID: <SJ0PR14MB4613F9042727E568DC306198FA989@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>

FYI, In case someone in the southwest is looking for a project:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/165184235736

I?ve seen the car and it is as rust-free as he says. It would be mine if I had anyplace to put it.

Cliff



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

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From cliff_hansen at outlook.com  Mon Nov 15 13:19:29 2021
From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2021 20:19:29 +0000
Subject: [TR] [NET] Incantation
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwiGG2VKa675RYCXXLEeC_5Z5GTA2i_q3rwjFBSSH2Kq6w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwg47cU+fz=SKk9_VozYWzdNuK+geH-G8MWz+sAhpNbkMA@mail.gmail.com>
 <B83D62AA-869C-4B22-85E1-CF3FF2E1E241@fuse.net>
 <CAJ1eQwiGG2VKa675RYCXXLEeC_5Z5GTA2i_q3rwjFBSSH2Kq6w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SJ0PR14MB461314E094E9CAB3F2BC0393FA989@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>

Dave(s),

I found that using a long guide bolt was a problem but perhaps my method was faulty.

In my case, I had to rotate the transmission to put the clutch lever downwards in order to clear the driver?s side floor pan. Once the transmission is close to the engine, then I could rotate it back to its upright position, and slide onto guide studs that were perhaps 2? at most. I?ll second the suggestion to look at the gap between engine and transmission from in front of the firewall, to judge when the front of the bell housing is parallel with the rear of the engine. That?s when the input shaft aligns with the pilot bushing.

Best of luck,

Cliff


Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: David Friedlander<mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, November 15, 2021 1:02 PM
To: Dave Connitt<mailto:dconnitt at fuse.net>
Cc: TR3 Triumphs<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>; PeterAra at msn.com<mailto:PeterAra at msn.com>; New England Triumphs<mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>; Philip Gott<mailto:vfracing at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] [NET] Incantation

Thanks, David. I'll give that a try. I haven't tried  to move the yoke
any while pushing in on the tranny but I'll try doing that while also
giving the guide-bolt a try.I don't want to be putting too much
stress on the flange of a cast aluminum bell housing though...

Dave

On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 5:12 PM Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net<mailto:dconnitt at fuse.net>> wrote:
Dave,
Here is what I have done to install my transmission and it can be done by yourself.
1. From the rear of the engine, remove that top center stud that bolts the transmission to the block. Take it to your local hardware store and buy the longest bolt you can find in that thread size.
2.  Cut the head off the long bolt you just bought and round that end so you end up with a stud and screw that into that upper center hole in the block.
3. Position the transmission so you can slide ii on to that stud and push it forward. The transmission input shaft will be lined up with the clutch disk and you should just have to rotate the driveshaft yoke to send it home.
Dave Connitt

Sent from my iPhone


On Nov 11, 2021, at 4:56 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com<mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com>> wrote:
?
Thanks for the feedback thus far, gentlemen.

My effort only included the transmission. I didn't service or
disassemble the clutch at all. I only replaced the throw-out
bearing, the sleeve for the TO bearing, the fork and pin and
the cross-shaft bushings. The output  shaft will now not
turn when in gear, signifying to me that the input shaft has
now aligned with the splines in the clutch.

Dave

On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 4:41 PM Philip Gott <vfracing at aol.com<mailto:vfracing at aol.com>> wrote:
Dave;
We?ve found that standing on your head while you turn the tail shaft a little bit at a time  with the transmission in gear helps to align the splines on the input shaft with the clutch. (You did first align the clutch with the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft, right? If you took it apart and did not touch the clutch, you?re ok on this already. ) also try rotating the transmission about the input shaft axis a bit. That helps to align the splines.
Good luck!
Phil G
Sent from my iPhone


On Nov 11, 2021, at 4:32 PM, David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>> wrote:
?
Greetings, listers!

I have now replaced the throwout bearing and sleeve on my OD transmission
and am trying to re-mate it with the engine. It's been several days of jacking,
maneuvering and pushing the tranny, to no avail. One won't get closer than an
inch to an inch-and-a-half to the other. Holes in the flanges of both line up,
the engine and transmission seem to be on the same plane but that's as far
as it goes.

On what page of the manual is the incantation to speak over this effort?
Must be spoken with a Limey accent, right?  :- )

Dave
'59 TR3A
_______________________________________________
NET mailing list
NET at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:NET at newenglandtriumphs.org>
http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

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From dconnitt at fuse.net  Mon Nov 15 13:31:42 2021
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2021 15:31:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] [NET] Incantation
In-Reply-To: <SJ0PR14MB461314E094E9CAB3F2BC0393FA989@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
References: <SJ0PR14MB461314E094E9CAB3F2BC0393FA989@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <705BC2FD-7317-4EDF-95E3-AC684CEB9DFB@fuse.net>

Cliff,
I agree. The long stud I used was about 2-1/2? and I had to rotate the transmission to allow the clutch arm to clear the left side floor pan but then I rotated the transmission back upright and ?hung? the transmission on that long stud. That lined up the input shaft with the clutch pressure plate. With the transmission is 4th gear, I rotated the u-joint a bit to line up the input shaft spline with the clutch disk and it slid home. Unfortunately, this process was developed as a result of my many transmission/overdrive problems which are thankfully behind me!

Dave Connitt 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 15, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at outlook.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Dave(s),
>  
> I found that using a long guide bolt was a problem but perhaps my method was faulty. 
>  
> In my case, I had to rotate the transmission to put the clutch lever downwards in order to clear the driver?s side floor pan. Once the transmission is close to the engine, then I could rotate it back to its upright position, and slide onto guide studs that were perhaps 2? at most. I?ll second the suggestion to look at the gap between engine and transmission from in front of the firewall, to judge when the front of the bell housing is parallel with the rear of the engine. That?s when the input shaft aligns with the pilot bushing.
>  
> Best of luck,
>  
> Cliff
>  
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows
>  
> From: David Friedlander
> Sent: Monday, November 15, 2021 1:02 PM
> To: Dave Connitt
> Cc: TR3 Triumphs; PeterAra at msn.com; New England Triumphs; Philip Gott
> Subject: Re: [TR] [NET] Incantation
>  
> Thanks, David. I'll give that a try. I haven't tried  to move the yoke 
> any while pushing in on the tranny but I'll try doing that while also 
> giving the guide-bolt a try.I don't want to be putting too much 
> stress on the flange of a cast aluminum bell housing though...
>  
> Dave
>  
> On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 5:12 PM Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:
> Dave,
> Here is what I have done to install my transmission and it can be done by yourself. 
> 1. From the rear of the engine, remove that top center stud that bolts the transmission to the block. Take it to your local hardware store and buy the longest bolt you can find in that thread size. 
> 2.  Cut the head off the long bolt you just bought and round that end so you end up with a stud and screw that into that upper center hole in the block.
> 3. Position the transmission so you can slide ii on to that stud and push it forward. The transmission input shaft will be lined up with the clutch disk and you should just have to rotate the driveshaft yoke to send it home.
> Dave Connitt 
>  
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> On Nov 11, 2021, at 4:56 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Thanks for the feedback thus far, gentlemen.
>  
> My effort only included the transmission. I didn't service or 
> disassemble the clutch at all. I only replaced the throw-out 
> bearing, the sleeve for the TO bearing, the fork and pin and 
> the cross-shaft bushings. The output  shaft will now not 
> turn when in gear, signifying to me that the input shaft has 
> now aligned with the splines in the clutch.
>  
> Dave
>  
> On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 4:41 PM Philip Gott <vfracing at aol.com> wrote:
> Dave;
> We?ve found that standing on your head while you turn the tail shaft a little bit at a time  with the transmission in gear helps to align the splines on the input shaft with the clutch. (You did first align the clutch with the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft, right? If you took it apart and did not touch the clutch, you?re ok on this already. ) also try rotating the transmission about the input shaft axis a bit. That helps to align the splines.
> Good luck!
> Phil G
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> On Nov 11, 2021, at 4:32 PM, David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Greetings, listers!
>  
> I have now replaced the throwout bearing and sleeve on my OD transmission 
> and am trying to re-mate it with the engine. It's been several days of jacking,
> maneuvering and pushing the tranny, to no avail. One won't get closer than an 
> inch to an inch-and-a-half to the other. Holes in the flanges of both line up, 
> the engine and transmission seem to be on the same plane but that's as far 
> as it goes. 
>  
> On what page of the manual is the incantation to speak over this effort?  
> Must be spoken with a Limey accent, right?  :- )
> 
> Dave
> '59 TR3A
> _______________________________________________
> NET mailing list
> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net
>  
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Mon Nov 15 13:39:41 2021
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2021 14:39:41 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A project for sale
In-Reply-To: <SJ0PR14MB4613F9042727E568DC306198FA989@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
References: <SJ0PR14MB4613F9042727E568DC306198FA989@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <1F95ABD8-B743-41C1-8F0A-A0FF7B12CAAA@yahoo.com>

Interesting build date ?NOV 1970??
Bill


?Last night I saw upon the stair,
A little man who wasn't there,
He wasn't there again today
Oh, how I wish he'd go away?.... Mearns

On Nov 15, 2021, at 2:31 PM, Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at outlook.com> wrote:

?
FYI, In case someone in the southwest is looking for a project:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/165184235736
 
I?ve seen the car and it is as rust-free as he says. It would be mine if I had anyplace to put it.

Cliff
 
 
 
Sent from Mail for Windows
 
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From cliff_hansen at outlook.com  Mon Nov 15 14:11:39 2021
From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2021 21:11:39 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4A project for sale
In-Reply-To: <1F95ABD8-B743-41C1-8F0A-A0FF7B12CAAA@yahoo.com>
References: <SJ0PR14MB4613F9042727E568DC306198FA989@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
 <1F95ABD8-B743-41C1-8F0A-A0FF7B12CAAA@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SJ0PR14MB461317E6F5B70CCFEDC43894FA989@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>

Ooh, I didn?t notice that when I looked at the car ? a ?commission plate? riveted to the B post. That can?t be original.

I have to assume the listed VIN CTC59825L is from the commission plate next to the brake master cylinder (not shown in photos).

I?m happy to look at the project as a courtesy for someone on this list.

Cliff

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: bill beecher<mailto:notakitcar at yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, November 15, 2021 1:39 PM
To: Cliff Hansen<mailto:cliff_hansen at outlook.com>
Cc: list Triumph<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A project for sale

Interesting build date ?NOV 1970??
Bill

?Last night I saw upon the stair,
A little man who wasn't there,
He wasn't there again today
Oh, how I wish he'd go away?.... Mearns

On Nov 15, 2021, at 2:31 PM, Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at outlook.com> wrote:
?
FYI, In case someone in the southwest is looking for a project:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/165184235736

I?ve seen the car and it is as rust-free as he says. It would be mine if I had anyplace to put it.
Cliff



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From mcgaheyrx at aol.com  Mon Nov 15 15:00:49 2021
From: mcgaheyrx at aol.com (CAROLINE MCGAHEY)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2021 17:00:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Zenith Stromberg Carbs
In-Reply-To: <0BA50FE2-9F62-4807-8FF7-7655127077EE@cf.edu>
References: <0BA50FE2-9F62-4807-8FF7-7655127077EE@cf.edu>
Message-ID: <025861F0-8340-4BDA-A21C-BA18B8299DC0@aol.com>

Hi Jim

In the diagram below 10=retaining clip, 11=o-ring, 11a=adjusting screw, 12=needle locking screw, 13=metering needle

You only have 2 1/2 turns from full lean (screwing the adjusting screw all the way onto the needle) to full rich (screwing the adjusting screw all the way out of the needle).
At full lean the adjusting screw will stop turning because it is screwed all the way into the needle, at full rich it will keep turning because it is screwed all the way out of the needle. 

Make sure the needle locking screw is not screwed in far enough to lock the needle into position, but is screwed in far enough into the slot in the top of the needle to keep the needle from rotating. The top of the needle has to be able to slide up and down but must not rotate. The adjusting screw will move the needle up and down as it is screwed into and out of the top of the metering needle. If you have screwed the adjusting screw counter clockwise more than 2 1/2 turns, the adjusting screw is not engaged with the needle - press down really hard with the adjusting tool when you turn clockwise to try and re-engage the adjusting screw with the needle.
 
You should not be pulling hard on the needle or twisting the needle - there are no ?spring positions? - you don?t want to twist or break the spring.
With the adjusting screw screwed all the way out and the needle locking screw removed, a gentle pull on the needle should remove the needle from the damper assembly - if it does not come out easily, it may be too stuck to be adjustable - soak it overnight with penetrating oil and try again.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Jack Mc


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Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 15, 2021, at 2:57 PM, Henningsen, James D. <henningj at cf.edu> wrote:
> 
> ?Ok, it?s been a while since I?ve adjusted the mixture on my ZS 175 CD-2 carbs on my TR6.  I have the adjustable B1AF needles,  removed damper from carb body, removed the fixing screw from the piston damper side.  I insert the special tool into the damper tube to turn the needle assembly and it engages the hex socket hole.  I can rotate left and right but it doesn?t move the height of the needle face on the bottom of the damper no matter which way I turn.    If I pull the needle down from the damper to its lowest spring position and then turn left or right, the needle seat height does move up and down.   I don?t recall having to hold the needle out to adjust mixture.  I also can?t easily find the fully lean or rich stop points easily.  Ten turns seems a bit much.
> 
> Any thoughts greatly appreciated.  Trying to get my refreshed 6 back on the road from a major engine drivetrain upgrade. Thanks I advance 
> 
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Mon Nov 15 15:30:19 2021
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2021 22:30:19 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4A project for sale
Message-ID: <SA1PR01MB6543114F9AFFF18428F3DC55B9989@SA1PR01MB6543.prod.exchangelabs.com>

?Was he playing with other TRs?  That?s a 70 TR6 commission plate and the B post looks like one for a 6 not a 4.  Might just be a wrong pic mixed in.

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 15, 2021, at 3:12 PM, Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at outlook.com> wrote:

?
Ooh, I didn?t notice that when I looked at the car ? a ?commission plate? riveted to the B post. That can?t be original.

I have to assume the listed VIN CTC59825L is from the commission plate next to the brake master cylinder (not shown in photos).

I?m happy to look at the project as a courtesy for someone on this list.

Cliff

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: bill beecher<mailto:notakitcar at yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, November 15, 2021 1:39 PM
To: Cliff Hansen<mailto:cliff_hansen at outlook.com>
Cc: list Triumph<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A project for sale

Interesting build date ?NOV 1970??
Bill

?Last night I saw upon the stair,
A little man who wasn't there,
He wasn't there again today
Oh, how I wish he'd go away?.... Mearns

On Nov 15, 2021, at 2:31 PM, Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at outlook.com> wrote:
?
FYI, In case someone in the southwest is looking for a project:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/165184235736

I?ve seen the car and it is as rust-free as he says. It would be mine if I had anyplace to put it.
Cliff



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com

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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Mon Nov 15 15:33:49 2021
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2021 14:33:49 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Zenith Stromberg Carbs
In-Reply-To: <0BA50FE2-9F62-4807-8FF7-7655127077EE@cf.edu>
References: <0BA50FE2-9F62-4807-8FF7-7655127077EE@cf.edu>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaE8A8TuhtsiDO-3RhdfhmSyn9ii_o7qPP_WJJ+A3RvMbQ@mail.gmail.com>

I'm my case on my Stag . Same carbs. The star washer was missing so the
needle didn't move up or down. Maybe ur star washer is not fully seated.

On Mon, Nov 15, 2021, 11:57 AM Henningsen, James D. <henningj at cf.edu> wrote:

> Ok, it?s been a while since I?ve adjusted the mixture on my ZS 175 CD-2
> carbs on my TR6.  I have the adjustable B1AF needles,  removed damper from
> carb body, removed the fixing screw from the piston damper side.  I insert
> the special tool into the damper tube to turn the needle assembly and it
> engages the hex socket hole.  I can rotate left and right but it doesn?t
> move the height of the needle face on the bottom of the damper no matter
> which way I turn.    If I pull the needle down from the damper to its
> lowest spring position and then turn left or right, the needle seat height
> does move up and down.   I don?t recall having to hold the needle out to
> adjust mixture.  I also can?t easily find the fully lean or rich stop
> points easily.  Ten turns seems a bit much.
>
> Any thoughts greatly appreciated.  Trying to get my refreshed 6 back on
> the road from a major engine drivetrain upgrade. Thanks I advance
>
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Mon Nov 15 15:34:47 2021
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2021 14:34:47 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Zenith Stromberg Carbs
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaE8A8TuhtsiDO-3RhdfhmSyn9ii_o7qPP_WJJ+A3RvMbQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0BA50FE2-9F62-4807-8FF7-7655127077EE@cf.edu>
 <CANLCLaE8A8TuhtsiDO-3RhdfhmSyn9ii_o7qPP_WJJ+A3RvMbQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaG9seQkj0Q9evMo4kg+L0pMGWFxRXY7Xq483S3QDdn-3g@mail.gmail.com>

3.5 turns on mine from end to end. Maybe yours has come off.

On Mon, Nov 15, 2021, 2:33 PM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm my case on my Stag . Same carbs. The star washer was missing so the
> needle didn't move up or down. Maybe ur star washer is not fully seated.
>
> On Mon, Nov 15, 2021, 11:57 AM Henningsen, James D. <henningj at cf.edu>
> wrote:
>
>> Ok, it?s been a while since I?ve adjusted the mixture on my ZS 175 CD-2
>> carbs on my TR6.  I have the adjustable B1AF needles,  removed damper from
>> carb body, removed the fixing screw from the piston damper side.  I insert
>> the special tool into the damper tube to turn the needle assembly and it
>> engages the hex socket hole.  I can rotate left and right but it doesn?t
>> move the height of the needle face on the bottom of the damper no matter
>> which way I turn.    If I pull the needle down from the damper to its
>> lowest spring position and then turn left or right, the needle seat height
>> does move up and down.   I don?t recall having to hold the needle out to
>> adjust mixture.  I also can?t easily find the fully lean or rich stop
>> points easily.  Ten turns seems a bit much.
>>
>> Any thoughts greatly appreciated.  Trying to get my refreshed 6 back on
>> the road from a major engine drivetrain upgrade. Thanks I advance
>>
>> Jim Henningsen
>> Ocala FL
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>>
>
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From cliff_hansen at outlook.com  Mon Nov 15 15:43:37 2021
From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2021 22:43:37 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4A project for sale
In-Reply-To: <SA1PR01MB6543114F9AFFF18428F3DC55B9989@SA1PR01MB6543.prod.exchangelabs.com>
References: <SA1PR01MB6543114F9AFFF18428F3DC55B9989@SA1PR01MB6543.prod.exchangelabs.com>
Message-ID: <SJ0PR14MB4613C4F5EC3BB25431077333FA989@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>

I don?t think he?s had any others. Certainly not that we?ve discussed or I?ve seen. Must have gotten the car that way.

Cliff


Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter<mailto:deruiterville at hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, November 15, 2021 3:30 PM
To: Cliff Hansen<mailto:cliff_hansen at outlook.com>
Cc: bill beecher<mailto:notakitcar at yahoo.com>; list Triumph<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A project for sale

?Was he playing with other TRs?  That?s a 70 TR6 commission plate and the B post looks like one for a 6 not a 4.  Might just be a wrong pic mixed in.
Sent from my iPad


On Nov 15, 2021, at 3:12 PM, Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at outlook.com> wrote:
?
Ooh, I didn?t notice that when I looked at the car ? a ?commission plate? riveted to the B post. That can?t be original.

I have to assume the listed VIN CTC59825L is from the commission plate next to the brake master cylinder (not shown in photos).

I?m happy to look at the project as a courtesy for someone on this list.

Cliff

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: bill beecher<mailto:notakitcar at yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, November 15, 2021 1:39 PM
To: Cliff Hansen<mailto:cliff_hansen at outlook.com>
Cc: list Triumph<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A project for sale

Interesting build date ?NOV 1970??
Bill

?Last night I saw upon the stair,
A little man who wasn't there,
He wasn't there again today
Oh, how I wish he'd go away?.... Mearns

On Nov 15, 2021, at 2:31 PM, Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at outlook.com> wrote:
?
FYI, In case someone in the southwest is looking for a project:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/165184235736

I?ve seen the car and it is as rust-free as he says. It would be mine if I had anyplace to put it.
Cliff



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com

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From cliff_hansen at outlook.com  Mon Nov 15 15:52:18 2021
From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2021 22:52:18 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4A project for sale
In-Reply-To: <SJ0PR14MB4613C4F5EC3BB25431077333FA989@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
References: <SA1PR01MB6543114F9AFFF18428F3DC55B9989@SA1PR01MB6543.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <SJ0PR14MB4613C4F5EC3BB25431077333FA989@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <SJ0PR14MB46130F771AE788DFADF645BEFA989@SJ0PR14MB4613.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>

I was wrong ? he had some TR6s at one point. That picture was posted in error. He says he?s correcting the listing.

Cliff


Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: Cliff Hansen<mailto:cliff_hansen at outlook.com>
Sent: Monday, November 15, 2021 3:44 PM
To: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter<mailto:deruiterville at hotmail.com>
Cc: list Triumph<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A project for sale

I don?t think he?s had any others. Certainly not that we?ve discussed or I?ve seen. Must have gotten the car that way.

Cliff


Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter<mailto:deruiterville at hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, November 15, 2021 3:30 PM
To: Cliff Hansen<mailto:cliff_hansen at outlook.com>
Cc: bill beecher<mailto:notakitcar at yahoo.com>; list Triumph<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A project for sale

?Was he playing with other TRs?  That?s a 70 TR6 commission plate and the B post looks like one for a 6 not a 4.  Might just be a wrong pic mixed in.
Sent from my iPad

On Nov 15, 2021, at 3:12 PM, Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at outlook.com> wrote:
?
Ooh, I didn?t notice that when I looked at the car ? a ?commission plate? riveted to the B post. That can?t be original.

I have to assume the listed VIN CTC59825L is from the commission plate next to the brake master cylinder (not shown in photos).

I?m happy to look at the project as a courtesy for someone on this list.

Cliff

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

From: bill beecher<mailto:notakitcar at yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, November 15, 2021 1:39 PM
To: Cliff Hansen<mailto:cliff_hansen at outlook.com>
Cc: list Triumph<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A project for sale

Interesting build date ?NOV 1970??
Bill

?Last night I saw upon the stair,
A little man who wasn't there,
He wasn't there again today
Oh, how I wish he'd go away?.... Mearns

On Nov 15, 2021, at 2:31 PM, Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at outlook.com> wrote:
?
FYI, In case someone in the southwest is looking for a project:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/165184235736

I?ve seen the car and it is as rust-free as he says. It would be mine if I had anyplace to put it.
Cliff



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Nov 15 18:49:40 2021
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2021 01:49:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Zenith Stromberg Carbs
In-Reply-To: <0BA50FE2-9F62-4807-8FF7-7655127077EE@cf.edu>
References: <0BA50FE2-9F62-4807-8FF7-7655127077EE@cf.edu>
Message-ID: <826206585.597756.1637027380884@mail.yahoo.com>

 

 removed damper from carb body, removed the fixing screw from the piston damper side
 Don't remove the screw.? That is what keeps the body from turning while you are making the adjustments.? And you don't have to remove the piston, either.? If the screw tension is set right it will allow the adjuster to turn with resistance but will keep that setting when you're done.? 
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Henningsen, James D. <henningj at cf.edu>
To: TR List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Nov 5, 2021 1:25 pm
Subject: [TR] TR6 Zenith Stromberg Carbs

Ok, it?s been a while since I?ve adjusted the mixture on my ZS 175 CD-2 carbs on my TR6.? I have the adjustable B1AF needles,? removed damper from carb body, removed the fixing screw from the piston damper side.? I insert the special tool into the damper tube to turn the needle assembly and it engages the hex socket hole.? I can rotate left and right but it doesn?t move the height of the needle face on the bottom of the damper no matter which way I turn.? ? If I pull the needle down from the damper to its lowest spring position and then turn left or right, the needle seat height does move up and down.? I don?t recall having to hold the needle out to adjust mixture.? I also can?t easily find the fully lean or rich stop points easily.? Ten turns seems a bit much.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated.? Trying to get my refreshed 6 back on the road from a major engine drivetrain upgrade. Thanks I advance 

Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Tue Nov 16 04:57:12 2021
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2021 06:57:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Zenith Stromberg Carbs
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaG9seQkj0Q9evMo4kg+L0pMGWFxRXY7Xq483S3QDdn-3g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaG9seQkj0Q9evMo4kg+L0pMGWFxRXY7Xq483S3QDdn-3g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8C7A9ED7-79AE-4B1D-8BE7-D9CC4B981735@gmail.com>

I finally got it to do the 3.5 turns.  I took out the needles and cleaned up everything.  Had some grunge in the screw area.  Turns out the little screw on the side of the piston damper needs to be in and set on the flat side of the needle seat.  With it in, the needle adjusts with the special tool.  With it out, it just spins and no adjustment happens.  Like I said, it?s been a while since I worked on the zenith carbs.  Good re learning experience.  Running much better now!  Thanks for everyone?s advice.
Jim Henningsen

> On Nov 15, 2021, at 5:35 PM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> 3.5 turns on mine from end to end. Maybe yours has come off.
> 
>> On Mon, Nov 15, 2021, 2:33 PM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
>> I'm my case on my Stag . Same carbs. The star washer was missing so the needle didn't move up or down. Maybe ur star washer is not fully seated.
>> 
>>> On Mon, Nov 15, 2021, 11:57 AM Henningsen, James D. <henningj at cf.edu> wrote:
>>> Ok, it?s been a while since I?ve adjusted the mixture on my ZS 175 CD-2 carbs on my TR6.  I have the adjustable B1AF needles,  removed damper from carb body, removed the fixing screw from the piston damper side.  I insert the special tool into the damper tube to turn the needle assembly and it engages the hex socket hole.  I can rotate left and right but it doesn?t move the height of the needle face on the bottom of the damper no matter which way I turn.    If I pull the needle down from the damper to its lowest spring position and then turn left or right, the needle seat height does move up and down.   I don?t recall having to hold the needle out to adjust mixture.  I also can?t easily find the fully lean or rich stop points easily.  Ten turns seems a bit much.
>>> 
>>> Any thoughts greatly appreciated.  Trying to get my refreshed 6 back on the road from a major engine drivetrain upgrade. Thanks I advance 
>>> 
>>> Jim Henningsen
>>> Ocala FL
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
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> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
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From mtgaines at presby.edu  Tue Nov 16 08:38:43 2021
From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2021 15:38:43 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6: more on LEDs--tail/brake lights this time
Message-ID: <em028b7a63-18fa-46d1-99ab-fdc7960331f7@laptop-lkrq9kmj>

After making a choice for the LiteZupp kit for the dash (awaiting 
delivery), I'm now zeroing in on the tail/brake lights that were too dim 
for my liking after my recent interstate drive at night. Roger expressed 
his concern with LiteZupps being brighter only when viewed from directly 
behind the car, and I have seen this issued mentioned for other LEDs in 
the past. I recently saw a couple of Youtube testimonials favoring the 
Sylvania 1157R red LEDs, and they do seem to be distinctive in that 
their design directs light down and to the side, which would seem to 
make maximum use of the reflector and mitigate against the 
directionality issue. Have any of you tried those bulbs?

Before making any changes in bulbs I decided to take the lenses apart 
for cleaning. I found enough dust and soot to account for at least some 
of the dimness I had noticed, but cleaning them didn't improve 
brightness greatly. The tail/brake reflectors were another story. They 
were very dull and offered a poor reflective surface. Cleaning didn't 
help, so I spray-painted them with a white enamel paint that I had left 
from another project. The result was much improved visibility of the 
incandescent bulbs, so much so that I may just leave them in place. 
Nevertheless, the size of the brake/tail lens is pretty small and I may 
yet try out an LED replacement to get the visibility I want, so I am 
still interested in any information regarding the Sylvania 1157R and 
other LEDs that you have tried.

By the way, in my opinion the amber turn signal and backup lights are 
plenty bright enough as is. For some reason the turn signal reflectors 
were still in very good shape.

Tim
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Wed Nov 17 08:03:33 2021
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2021 10:03:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pilot bush -- TR3
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwjY5YLOV2T04h1_GL04iWy9qhLAbDXDfp7_+Do3OHSUSg@mail.gmail.com>

Good morning listers!

A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do
I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc
and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge....

Thanks for any insights,

Dave
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 17 08:51:16 2021
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2021 15:51:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Pilot bush -- TR3
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwjY5YLOV2T04h1_GL04iWy9qhLAbDXDfp7_+Do3OHSUSg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwjY5YLOV2T04h1_GL04iWy9qhLAbDXDfp7_+Do3OHSUSg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1691265324.885769.1637164276491@mail.yahoo.com>

 yes. the flywheel has to come off also.
Frank
    On Wednesday, November 17, 2021, 07:04:26 AM PST, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Good morning listers!

A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do?I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc?and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge....
Thanks for any insights,
Dave** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Wed Nov 17 08:59:06 2021
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2021 10:59:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pilot bush -- TR3
In-Reply-To: <456245476.646219.1637164383958@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwjY5YLOV2T04h1_GL04iWy9qhLAbDXDfp7_+Do3OHSUSg@mail.gmail.com>
 <456245476.646219.1637164383958@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwi_6BLHOXyjMgqg1LfpU+u0xSGfZFKxKPMG+u0tocsD3g@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks, Dave. Interesting. There seems to be a difference of opinion on
this subject. But, if the flywheel needs to be resurfaced anyway, it may be
a moot point. I guess I?ll pull off the flywheel and, if the pilot bush
still doesn?t budge, I?ll have to take more drastic measures?

Dave


On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 10:53 AM DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:

> Hi Dave,
> The flywheel does not need to come off.  There are tricks to removing the
> bushing with a grease gun or jamming a piece of bread in there.  Forcing
> something in there will push out the bush.
> If you are replacing the clutch disc and pressure plate the flywheel
> should always come off and be resurfaced.
> Dave H.
>
> On 11/17/2021 7:03 AM David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Good morning listers!
>
> A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do
> I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc
> and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge....
>
> Thanks for any insights,
>
> Dave
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
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From tr3abobm77 at frontier.com  Wed Nov 17 09:14:28 2021
From: tr3abobm77 at frontier.com (Triumph)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2021 11:14:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pilot bush -- TR3
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwi_6BLHOXyjMgqg1LfpU+u0xSGfZFKxKPMG+u0tocsD3g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwjY5YLOV2T04h1_GL04iWy9qhLAbDXDfp7_+Do3OHSUSg@mail.gmail.com>
 <456245476.646219.1637164383958@connect.xfinity.com>
 <CAJ1eQwi_6BLHOXyjMgqg1LfpU+u0xSGfZFKxKPMG+u0tocsD3g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003701d7dbce$32dfe980$989fbc80$@frontier.com>

When I tried to replace mine years ago on my 59 TR3A, I tried all the usual tricks. I even bought a pilot bushing puller. Eventually I stuck my finger into the bushing and found I could move it fore and aft about 1/8 inch as it was loose in the bore but it hit the back side of the flywheel and would go no further. Once I removed the flywheel it popped right out.

Afterwards, I measured the holes and the flywheel hole was definitely smaller than the crankshaft hole.

Bob Maassel

Fort Wayne 

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2021 10:59 AM
To: DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>; TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Pilot bush -- TR3

 

 

Thanks, Dave. Interesting. There seems to be a difference of opinion on this subject. But, if the flywheel needs to be resurfaced anyway, it may be a moot point. I guess I?ll pull off the flywheel and, if the pilot bush still doesn?t budge, I?ll have to take more drastic measures?

 

Dave

 

 

On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 10:53 AM DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net <mailto:dlhogye at comcast.net> > wrote:

Hi Dave, 

The flywheel does not need to come off.  There are tricks to removing the bushing with a grease gun or jamming a piece of bread in there.  Forcing something in there will push out the bush. 

If you are replacing the clutch disc and pressure plate the flywheel should always come off and be resurfaced. 

Dave H.  

On 11/17/2021 7:03 AM David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com <mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com> > wrote: 

 

 

Good morning listers! 

 

A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do  

I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc  

and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge.... 

 

Thanks for any insights, 

 

Dave 

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  ** 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive 

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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Wed Nov 17 10:27:33 2021
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2021 12:27:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
In-Reply-To: <1827302263.1060270.1637163208210@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwjY5YLOV2T04h1_GL04iWy9qhLAbDXDfp7_+Do3OHSUSg@mail.gmail.com>
 <1827302263.1060270.1637163208210@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwikRqx1owrr+PE8_c+ONWOZxjYshK6NL00UmUpgdOvscw@mail.gmail.com>

Since the flywheel/crank rotate when I try to loosen the flywheel bolts
with a ratchet wrench, is it permissible to use an air impact wrench to
loosen them or is that not a good idea?

Dave


On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 10:34 AM John Bowe via NET <
net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:

> A couple ways to remove bush..... If you have a wood dowel the right
> size.  Fill the hole with grease and then jam dowel into bush. The pressure
> of grease behind bush should push it out.  Another way is to find a thread
> tap the right size for inside bush and wind it in. The tap will bottom out
> in flywheel and pull the bush out.  If you have a small seal puller with
> the outside facing arms that could work if there is room for fingers to get
> behind bush edges.    Just a few of many ways.    See ya, John B.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> Sent: Wed, Nov 17, 2021 10:03 am
> Subject: [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
>
> Good morning listers!
>
> A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do
> I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc
> and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge....
>
> Thanks for any insights,
>
> Dave
> _______________________________________________
> NET mailing list
> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
> _______________________________________________
> NET mailing list
> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 17 10:28:59 2021
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2021 17:28:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwikRqx1owrr+PE8_c+ONWOZxjYshK6NL00UmUpgdOvscw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwjY5YLOV2T04h1_GL04iWy9qhLAbDXDfp7_+Do3OHSUSg@mail.gmail.com>
 <1827302263.1060270.1637163208210@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwikRqx1owrr+PE8_c+ONWOZxjYshK6NL00UmUpgdOvscw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1680781672.1084370.1637170139112@mail.yahoo.com>

 not a problem
Frank


    On Wednesday, November 17, 2021, 09:28:11 AM PST, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 
Since the flywheel/crank rotate when I try to loosen the flywheel bolts with a ratchet wrench, is it permissible to use an air impact wrench to loosen them or is that not a good idea?
Dave

On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 10:34 AM John Bowe via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:

A couple ways to remove bush..... If you have a wood dowel the right size.? Fill the hole with grease and then jam dowel into bush. The pressure of grease behind bush should push it out.? Another way is to find a thread tap the right size for inside bush and wind it in. The tap will bottom out in flywheel and pull the bush out.? If you have a small seal puller with the outside facing arms that could work if there is room for fingers to get behind bush edges.? ? Just a few of many ways.? ? See ya, John B.? ?


-----Original Message-----
From: David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
Sent: Wed, Nov 17, 2021 10:03 am
Subject: [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3

Good morning listers!

A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do?I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc?and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge....
Thanks for any insights,
Dave_______________________________________________
NET mailing list
NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
_______________________________________________
NET mailing list
NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Wed Nov 17 10:32:18 2021
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (Notakitcar)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2021 11:32:18 -0600
Subject: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwikRqx1owrr+PE8_c+ONWOZxjYshK6NL00UmUpgdOvscw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwjY5YLOV2T04h1_GL04iWy9qhLAbDXDfp7_+Do3OHSUSg@mail.gmail.com>
 <1827302263.1060270.1637163208210@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwikRqx1owrr+PE8_c+ONWOZxjYshK6NL00UmUpgdOvscw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000701d7dbd9$12996d30$37cc4790$@yahoo.com>

I have often used an impact for removal, just for speed an convenience.

Bill

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2021 11:28 AM
To: tritriple at aol.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; net at newenglandtriumphs.org
Subject: Re: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3

 

 

Since the flywheel/crank rotate when I try to loosen the flywheel bolts with a ratchet wrench, is it permissible to use an air impact wrench to loosen them or is that not a good idea?

 

Dave

 

 

On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 10:34 AM John Bowe via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org> > wrote:

A couple ways to remove bush..... If you have a wood dowel the right size.  Fill the hole with grease and then jam dowel into bush. The pressure of grease behind bush should push it out.  Another way is to find a thread tap the right size for inside bush and wind it in. The tap will bottom out in flywheel and pull the bush out.  If you have a small seal puller with the outside facing arms that could work if there is room for fingers to get behind bush edges.    Just a few of many ways.    See ya, John B.   



-----Original Message-----
From: David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org> >
To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> >; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org> >
Sent: Wed, Nov 17, 2021 10:03 am
Subject: [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3

Good morning listers!

 

A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do 

I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc 

and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge...

 

Thanks for any insights,

 

Dave

_______________________________________________
NET mailing list
NET at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:NET at newenglandtriumphs.org> 
http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org

_______________________________________________
NET mailing list
NET at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:NET at newenglandtriumphs.org> 
http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Nov 17 11:40:11 2021
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2021 18:40:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwikRqx1owrr+PE8_c+ONWOZxjYshK6NL00UmUpgdOvscw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwjY5YLOV2T04h1_GL04iWy9qhLAbDXDfp7_+Do3OHSUSg@mail.gmail.com>
 <1827302263.1060270.1637163208210@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwikRqx1owrr+PE8_c+ONWOZxjYshK6NL00UmUpgdOvscw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <680307302.1108707.1637174411527@mail.yahoo.com>

 Sure,why not.? Or you can stick a long bolt in one of the transmission attachment holes and use a screw driver to engage a tooth on the flywheel the push back on the rotation force.? This is a technique you will need when you reinstall the the flywheel.
I've seen a little device that bolts to the block that has a tooth/protrusion that does this.
Oh, here's one, a flywheel locking tool:

https://tinyurl.com/ursrkc
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
To: tritriple at aol.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>; net at newenglandtriumphs.org <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
Sent: Wed, Nov 17, 2021 11:27 am
Subject: Re: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3


Since the flywheel/crank rotate when I try to loosen the flywheel bolts with a ratchet wrench, is it permissible to use an air impact wrench to loosen them or is that not a good idea?
Dave

On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 10:34 AM John Bowe via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:

A couple ways to remove bush..... If you have a wood dowel the right size.? Fill the hole with grease and then jam dowel into bush. The pressure of grease behind bush should push it out.? Another way is to find a thread tap the right size for inside bush and wind it in. The tap will bottom out in flywheel and pull the bush out.? If you have a small seal puller with the outside facing arms that could work if there is room for fingers to get behind bush edges.? ? Just a few of many ways.? ? See ya, John B.? ?


-----Original Message-----
From: David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
Sent: Wed, Nov 17, 2021 10:03 am
Subject: [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3

Good morning listers!

A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do?I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc?and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge....
Thanks for any insights,
Dave_______________________________________________
NET mailing list
NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
_______________________________________________
NET mailing list
NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Wed Nov 17 13:02:49 2021
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2021 20:02:49 +0000
Subject: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwikRqx1owrr+PE8_c+ONWOZxjYshK6NL00UmUpgdOvscw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwjY5YLOV2T04h1_GL04iWy9qhLAbDXDfp7_+Do3OHSUSg@mail.gmail.com>
 <1827302263.1060270.1637163208210@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwikRqx1owrr+PE8_c+ONWOZxjYshK6NL00UmUpgdOvscw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SA1PR01MB6543E34E82BEEB20CA70C705B99A9@SA1PR01MB6543.prod.exchangelabs.com>

No problem with an impact wrench for removal.  To reinstall, here is my version of a flywheel locking tool.  I'm unsure of the Churchill Tool number, but note the calibrated on the 2x4 wedge where the flywheel teeth dug in and locked.  Just tap the wedge in the starter hole to immobilize the flywheel, torque down, and remove the highly calibrated tool for later use.

Randy

________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2021 11:27 AM
To: tritriple at aol.com <tritriple at aol.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>; net at newenglandtriumphs.org <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
Subject: Re: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3


Since the flywheel/crank rotate when I try to loosen the flywheel bolts with a ratchet wrench, is it permissible to use an air impact wrench to loosen them or is that not a good idea?

Dave


On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 10:34 AM John Bowe via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>> wrote:
A couple ways to remove bush..... If you have a wood dowel the right size.  Fill the hole with grease and then jam dowel into bush. The pressure of grease behind bush should push it out.  Another way is to find a thread tap the right size for inside bush and wind it in. The tap will bottom out in flywheel and pull the bush out.  If you have a small seal puller with the outside facing arms that could work if there is room for fingers to get behind bush edges.    Just a few of many ways.    See ya, John B.


-----Original Message-----
From: David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>
To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>
Sent: Wed, Nov 17, 2021 10:03 am
Subject: [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3

Good morning listers!

A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do
I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc
and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge....

Thanks for any insights,

Dave
_______________________________________________
NET mailing list
NET at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:NET at newenglandtriumphs.org>
http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
_______________________________________________
NET mailing list
NET at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:NET at newenglandtriumphs.org>
http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
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From ptegler at verizon.net  Wed Nov 17 13:23:22 2021
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2021 15:23:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
In-Reply-To: <SA1PR01MB6543E34E82BEEB20CA70C705B99A9@SA1PR01MB6543.prod.exchangelabs.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwjY5YLOV2T04h1_GL04iWy9qhLAbDXDfp7_+Do3OHSUSg@mail.gmail.com>
 <1827302263.1060270.1637163208210@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwikRqx1owrr+PE8_c+ONWOZxjYshK6NL00UmUpgdOvscw@mail.gmail.com>
 <SA1PR01MB6543E34E82BEEB20CA70C705B99A9@SA1PR01MB6543.prod.exchangelabs.com>
Message-ID: <800053c8-fa67-cee2-00b2-87ac923aba68@verizon.net>

ditto....? I use an old solid wood door stop wedged between flywheel 
teeth and one bolt stuck in a hole of the motor back plate.

ptegler




On 11/17/2021 3:02 PM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter wrote:
> No problem with an impact wrench for removal.? To reinstall, here is 
> my version of a flywheel locking tool.? I'm unsure of the Churchill 
> Tool number, but note the calibrated on the 2x4 wedge where the 
> flywheel teeth dug in and locked.? Just tap the wedge in the starter 
> hole to immobilize the flywheel, torque down, and remove the highly 
> calibrated tool for later use.
>
> Randy
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David 
> Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 17, 2021 11:27 AM
> *To:* tritriple at aol.com <tritriple at aol.com>
> *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
>
> Since the flywheel/crank rotate when I try to loosen the flywheel 
> bolts with a ratchet wrench, is it permissible to use an air impact 
> wrench to loosen them or is that not a good idea?
>
> Dave
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 10:34 AM John Bowe via NET 
> <net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:
>
>     A couple ways to remove bush..... If you have a wood dowel the
>     right size. Fill the hole with grease and then jam dowel into
>     bush. The pressure of grease behind bush should push it out.?
>     Another way is to find a thread tap the right size for inside bush
>     and wind it in. The tap will bottom out in flywheel and pull the
>     bush out.? If you have a small seal puller with the outside facing
>     arms that could work if there is room for fingers to get behind
>     bush edges.? ? Just a few of many ways.? ? See ya, John B.
>
>
>     -----Original Message-----
>     From: David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>     To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs
>     <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>     Sent: Wed, Nov 17, 2021 10:03 am
>     Subject: [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
>
>     Good morning listers!
>
>     A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do
>     I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc
>     and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge....
>
>     Thanks for any insights,
>
>     Dave
>     _______________________________________________
>     NET mailing list
>     NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
>     http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>     _______________________________________________
>     NET mailing list
>     NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
>     http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>
>
> **triumphs at autox.team.net  **
>
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs   http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net

-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net   www.teglerizer.com
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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Nov 17 14:03:34 2021
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2021 16:03:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
In-Reply-To: <SA1PR01MB6543E34E82BEEB20CA70C705B99A9@SA1PR01MB6543.prod.exchangelabs.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwjY5YLOV2T04h1_GL04iWy9qhLAbDXDfp7_+Do3OHSUSg@mail.gmail.com>
 <1827302263.1060270.1637163208210@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwikRqx1owrr+PE8_c+ONWOZxjYshK6NL00UmUpgdOvscw@mail.gmail.com>
 <SA1PR01MB6543E34E82BEEB20CA70C705B99A9@SA1PR01MB6543.prod.exchangelabs.com>
Message-ID: <699b401d-0e05-1f48-023a-5c250f24c80a@adelphia.net>

Make sure you start your impact wrench from the lowest setting and work 
yourself up.

Bob


On 11/17/21 3:02 PM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter wrote:
> No problem with an impact wrench for removal.? To reinstall, here is 
> my version of a flywheel locking tool.? I'm unsure of the Churchill 
> Tool number, but note the calibrated on the 2x4 wedge where the 
> flywheel teeth dug in and locked.? Just tap the wedge in the starter 
> hole to immobilize the flywheel, torque down, and remove the highly 
> calibrated tool for later use.
>
> Randy
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David 
> Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 17, 2021 11:27 AM
> *To:* tritriple at aol.com <tritriple at aol.com>
> *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
>
> Since the flywheel/crank rotate when I try to loosen the flywheel 
> bolts with a ratchet wrench, is it permissible to use an air impact 
> wrench to loosen them or is that not a good idea?
>
> Dave
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 10:34 AM John Bowe via NET 
> <net at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>> wrote:
>
>     A couple ways to remove bush..... If you have a wood dowel the
>     right size. Fill the hole with grease and then jam dowel into
>     bush. The pressure of grease behind bush should push it out.?
>     Another way is to find a thread tap the right size for inside bush
>     and wind it in. The tap will bottom out in flywheel and pull the
>     bush out.? If you have a small seal puller with the outside facing
>     arms that could work if there is room for fingers to get behind
>     bush edges.? ? Just a few of many ways.? ? See ya, John B.
>
>
>     -----Original Message-----
>     From: David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org
>     <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>
>     To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>; New England Triumphs
>     <net at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>
>     Sent: Wed, Nov 17, 2021 10:03 am
>     Subject: [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
>
>     Good morning listers!
>
>     A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do
>     I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc
>     and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge....
>
>     Thanks for any insights,
>
>     Dave
>     _______________________________________________
>     NET mailing list
>     NET at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:NET at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>     http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>     _______________________________________________
>     NET mailing list
>     NET at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:NET at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>     http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net
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From tfansher at comcast.net  Sun Nov 21 14:40:15 2021
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2021 16:40:15 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] 1962 TR4 paint colors
Message-ID: <308942119.628804.1637530815941@connect.xfinity.com>

I know there have been many questions about original paint colors for various cars and I thought I had saved them, but can't find them.  I have finally gotten around to rebuild the 1962 TR4 and need help with the available colors - or where to source them. 
TIA
Tom Fansher
'61 TR3A
'62 TR4
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 21 18:41:01 2021
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2021 19:41:01 -0600
Subject: [TR] 1962 TR4 paint colors
In-Reply-To: <308942119.628804.1637530815941@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <308942119.628804.1637530815941@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <6EC4412D-3760-4006-871A-1E14EBDB7AC1@yahoo.com>

This may be helpful. http://www.trregisterfrance.com/meca/paint.htm

Bill B

?Last night I saw upon the stair,
A little man who wasn't there,
He wasn't there again today
Oh, how I wish he'd go away?.... Mearns

On Nov 21, 2021, at 3:40 PM, tfansher at comcast.net wrote:

?
I know there have been many questions about original paint colors for various cars and I thought I had saved them, but can't find them.  I have finally gotten around to rebuild the 1962 TR4 and need help with the available colors - or where to source them.  
TIA
Tom Fansher
'61 TR3A
'62 TR4
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com
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From tfansher at comcast.net  Mon Nov 22 06:52:04 2021
From: tfansher at comcast.net (Tom Fansher)
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2021 08:52:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] 1962 TR4 paint colors
In-Reply-To: <6EC4412D-3760-4006-871A-1E14EBDB7AC1@yahoo.com>
References: <6EC4412D-3760-4006-871A-1E14EBDB7AC1@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <923E7BEA-C3B7-4A69-89A2-7FEE0EFBE4CF@comcast.net>

Thanks so much.  Have a happy thanksgiving 
Tom

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 21, 2021, at 8:41 PM, bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> ?This may be helpful. http://www.trregisterfrance.com/meca/paint.htm
> 
> Bill B
> 
> ?Last night I saw upon the stair,
> A little man who wasn't there,
> He wasn't there again today
> Oh, how I wish he'd go away?.... Mearns
> 
> On Nov 21, 2021, at 3:40 PM, tfansher at comcast.net wrote:
> 
> ?
> I know there have been many questions about original paint colors for various cars and I thought I had saved them, but can't find them.  I have finally gotten around to rebuild the 1962 TR4 and need help with the available colors - or where to source them.  
> TIA
> Tom Fansher
> '61 TR3A
> '62 TR4
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com
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From sackirby at chinaautogroup.com  Wed Nov 17 10:09:08 2021
From: sackirby at chinaautogroup.com (Steve Kirby)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2021 17:09:08 +0000
Subject: [TR] Pilot bush -- TR3
In-Reply-To: <003701d7dbce$32dfe980$989fbc80$@frontier.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwjY5YLOV2T04h1_GL04iWy9qhLAbDXDfp7_+Do3OHSUSg@mail.gmail.com>
 <456245476.646219.1637164383958@connect.xfinity.com>
 <CAJ1eQwi_6BLHOXyjMgqg1LfpU+u0xSGfZFKxKPMG+u0tocsD3g@mail.gmail.com>
 <003701d7dbce$32dfe980$989fbc80$@frontier.com>
Message-ID: <870927fc44a54c82ba8afc70406670bd@chinaautogroup.com>

OK, call me crazy, but watch this YouTube video on how to remove a pilot bushing or bearing with bread.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00OlG5E8vLk

I have found pullers to be of little use as it is hard to get a grip on the back side of the bushing?..but this method actually works.

Steve Kirby
President
China Auto Group
22831 Avenida Empresa
Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA
Direct:  (949) 261-8208
Fax:  (949) 767-5949
Cell:  (949) 903-0957
Skype: steve.kirby29
www.chinaautogroup.com

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Triumph
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2021 8:14 AM
To: 'David Friedlander' <forzion7 at gmail.com>; 'DAVE HOGYE' <dlhogye at comcast.net>; 'New England Triumphs' <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>; 'TR3 Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Pilot bush -- TR3

When I tried to replace mine years ago on my 59 TR3A, I tried all the usual tricks. I even bought a pilot bushing puller. Eventually I stuck my finger into the bushing and found I could move it fore and aft about 1/8 inch as it was loose in the bore but it hit the back side of the flywheel and would go no further. Once I removed the flywheel it popped right out.
Afterwards, I measured the holes and the flywheel hole was definitely smaller than the crankshaft hole.
Bob Maassel
Fort Wayne

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2021 10:59 AM
To: DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net<mailto:dlhogye at comcast.net>>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>; TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [TR] Pilot bush -- TR3


Thanks, Dave. Interesting. There seems to be a difference of opinion on this subject. But, if the flywheel needs to be resurfaced anyway, it may be a moot point. I guess I?ll pull off the flywheel and, if the pilot bush still doesn?t budge, I?ll have to take more drastic measures?

Dave


On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 10:53 AM DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net<mailto:dlhogye at comcast.net>> wrote:
Hi Dave,
The flywheel does not need to come off.  There are tricks to removing the bushing with a grease gun or jamming a piece of bread in there.  Forcing something in there will push out the bush.
If you are replacing the clutch disc and pressure plate the flywheel should always come off and be resurfaced.
Dave H.
On 11/17/2021 7:03 AM David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com<mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com>> wrote:


Good morning listers!

A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do
I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc
and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge....

Thanks for any insights,

Dave
** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Wed Nov 17 13:28:14 2021
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2021 12:28:14 -0800
Subject: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
In-Reply-To: <SA1PR01MB6543E34E82BEEB20CA70C705B99A9@SA1PR01MB6543.prod.exchangelabs.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwjY5YLOV2T04h1_GL04iWy9qhLAbDXDfp7_+Do3OHSUSg@mail.gmail.com>
 <1827302263.1060270.1637163208210@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwikRqx1owrr+PE8_c+ONWOZxjYshK6NL00UmUpgdOvscw@mail.gmail.com>
 <SA1PR01MB6543E34E82BEEB20CA70C705B99A9@SA1PR01MB6543.prod.exchangelabs.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaGwOtm_0xBYuzceqe92D=WNdNVPW9sXnSV3Wdr7G4DbMQ@mail.gmail.com>

When taking flywheel off on a Stag they recommend replacing the bolts. Not
cheap.


On Wed, Nov 17, 2021, 12:03 PM Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <
deruiterville at hotmail.com> wrote:

> No problem with an impact wrench for removal.  To reinstall, here is my
> version of a flywheel locking tool.  I'm unsure of the Churchill Tool
> number, but note the calibrated on the 2x4 wedge where the flywheel teeth
> dug in and locked.  Just tap the wedge in the starter hole to immobilize
> the flywheel, torque down, and remove the highly calibrated tool for later
> use.
>
> Randy
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David
> Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 17, 2021 11:27 AM
> *To:* tritriple at aol.com <tritriple at aol.com>
> *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>;
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
>
>
> Since the flywheel/crank rotate when I try to loosen the flywheel bolts
> with a ratchet wrench, is it permissible to use an air impact wrench to
> loosen them or is that not a good idea?
>
> Dave
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 10:34 AM John Bowe via NET <
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:
>
> A couple ways to remove bush..... If you have a wood dowel the right
> size.  Fill the hole with grease and then jam dowel into bush. The pressure
> of grease behind bush should push it out.  Another way is to find a thread
> tap the right size for inside bush and wind it in. The tap will bottom out
> in flywheel and pull the bush out.  If you have a small seal puller with
> the outside facing arms that could work if there is room for fingers to get
> behind bush edges.    Just a few of many ways.    See ya, John B.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> Sent: Wed, Nov 17, 2021 10:03 am
> Subject: [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
>
> Good morning listers!
>
> A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do
> I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc
> and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge....
>
> Thanks for any insights,
>
> Dave
> _______________________________________________
> NET mailing list
> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
> _______________________________________________
> NET mailing list
> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Wed Nov 17 13:40:00 2021
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2021 15:40:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGwOtm_0xBYuzceqe92D=WNdNVPW9sXnSV3Wdr7G4DbMQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwjY5YLOV2T04h1_GL04iWy9qhLAbDXDfp7_+Do3OHSUSg@mail.gmail.com>
 <1827302263.1060270.1637163208210@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwikRqx1owrr+PE8_c+ONWOZxjYshK6NL00UmUpgdOvscw@mail.gmail.com>
 <SA1PR01MB6543E34E82BEEB20CA70C705B99A9@SA1PR01MB6543.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <CANLCLaGwOtm_0xBYuzceqe92D=WNdNVPW9sXnSV3Wdr7G4DbMQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwgE8ZxobXNvsurtxA4wcesdY18iVgS0K3n16jM-UT6dVw@mail.gmail.com>

Thank you, everyone for all your well-informed and helpful responses!

I have now removed the flywheel and delivered it to the local machine shop
for resurfacing. In the meantime, the pilot bush STILL will not come out of
the back of the crankshaft and I am devising plans to get it to move. I
love when people say, "Do this and it will just pop out!" Riggght....  :- )

Dave



On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 3:28 PM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:

> When taking flywheel off on a Stag they recommend replacing the bolts. Not
> cheap.
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 17, 2021, 12:03 PM Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <
> deruiterville at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> No problem with an impact wrench for removal.  To reinstall, here is my
>> version of a flywheel locking tool.  I'm unsure of the Churchill Tool
>> number, but note the calibrated on the 2x4 wedge where the flywheel teeth
>> dug in and locked.  Just tap the wedge in the starter hole to immobilize
>> the flywheel, torque down, and remove the highly calibrated tool for later
>> use.
>>
>> Randy
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David
>> Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 17, 2021 11:27 AM
>> *To:* tritriple at aol.com <tritriple at aol.com>
>> *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>;
>> net at newenglandtriumphs.org <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>> *Subject:* Re: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
>>
>>
>> Since the flywheel/crank rotate when I try to loosen the flywheel bolts
>> with a ratchet wrench, is it permissible to use an air impact wrench to
>> loosen them or is that not a good idea?
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 10:34 AM John Bowe via NET <
>> net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:
>>
>> A couple ways to remove bush..... If you have a wood dowel the right
>> size.  Fill the hole with grease and then jam dowel into bush. The pressure
>> of grease behind bush should push it out.  Another way is to find a thread
>> tap the right size for inside bush and wind it in. The tap will bottom out
>> in flywheel and pull the bush out.  If you have a small seal puller with
>> the outside facing arms that could work if there is room for fingers to get
>> behind bush edges.    Just a few of many ways.    See ya, John B.
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>> To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <
>> net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>> Sent: Wed, Nov 17, 2021 10:03 am
>> Subject: [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
>>
>> Good morning listers!
>>
>> A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do
>> I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc
>> and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge....
>>
>> Thanks for any insights,
>>
>> Dave
>> _______________________________________________
>> NET mailing list
>> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
>> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>> _______________________________________________
>> NET mailing list
>> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
>> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>>
>
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Wed Nov 17 15:21:27 2021
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2021 17:21:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] [NET]  Pilot bush -- TR3
In-Reply-To: <63248794.432461.1637184904108@aol.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgE8ZxobXNvsurtxA4wcesdY18iVgS0K3n16jM-UT6dVw@mail.gmail.com>
 <63248794.432461.1637184904108@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwhsJO39pxj-CN+daMEsw8Cd9fujwkpFeodTYoEESJ_HZQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks again to everyone. I divided a method for getting the pilot bush
out.

See photo:

[image: image.png]

I didn't know it had a knurled end! No wonder it had such a grip on the
crank!

Dave


On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 4:35 PM tritriple <tritriple at aol.com> wrote:

> When all else fails......dynamite!!!! Just a small charge....
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> Date: 11/17/21 3:41 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
> Cc: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville at hotmail.com>,
> tritriple at aol.com, Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>, New England
> Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> Subject: Re: [NET] [TR] Pilot bush -- TR3
>
> Thank you, everyone for all your well-informed and helpful responses!
>
> I have now removed the flywheel and delivered it to the local machine shop
> for resurfacing. In the meantime, the pilot bush STILL will not come out of
> the back of the crankshaft and I am devising plans to get it to move. I
> love when people say, "Do this and it will just pop out!" Riggght....  :- )
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 3:28 PM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> When taking flywheel off on a Stag they recommend replacing the bolts.
>> Not cheap.
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Nov 17, 2021, 12:03 PM Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <
>> deruiterville at hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> No problem with an impact wrench for removal.  To reinstall, here is my
>>> version of a flywheel locking tool.  I'm unsure of the Churchill Tool
>>> number, but note the calibrated on the 2x4 wedge where the flywheel teeth
>>> dug in and locked.  Just tap the wedge in the starter hole to immobilize
>>> the flywheel, torque down, and remove the highly calibrated tool for later
>>> use.
>>>
>>> Randy
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David
>>> Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 17, 2021 11:27 AM
>>> *To:* tritriple at aol.com <tritriple at aol.com>
>>> *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>;
>>> net at newenglandtriumphs.org <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>>> *Subject:* Re: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
>>>
>>>
>>> Since the flywheel/crank rotate when I try to loosen the flywheel bolts
>>> with a ratchet wrench, is it permissible to use an air impact wrench to
>>> loosen them or is that not a good idea?
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 10:34 AM John Bowe via NET <
>>> net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:
>>>
>>> A couple ways to remove bush..... If you have a wood dowel the right
>>> size.  Fill the hole with grease and then jam dowel into bush. The pressure
>>> of grease behind bush should push it out.  Another way is to find a thread
>>> tap the right size for inside bush and wind it in. The tap will bottom out
>>> in flywheel and pull the bush out.  If you have a small seal puller with
>>> the outside facing arms that could work if there is room for fingers to get
>>> behind bush edges.    Just a few of many ways.    See ya, John B.
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>>> To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <
>>> net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>>> Sent: Wed, Nov 17, 2021 10:03 am
>>> Subject: [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
>>>
>>> Good morning listers!
>>>
>>> A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do
>>> I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc
>>> and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge....
>>>
>>> Thanks for any insights,
>>>
>>> Dave
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> NET mailing list
>>> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
>>> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> NET mailing list
>>> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
>>> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>>>
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>>>
>>
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From grglmn at gmail.com  Fri Nov 26 10:12:28 2021
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2021 11:12:28 -0600
Subject: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwhsJO39pxj-CN+daMEsw8Cd9fujwkpFeodTYoEESJ_HZQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgE8ZxobXNvsurtxA4wcesdY18iVgS0K3n16jM-UT6dVw@mail.gmail.com>
 <63248794.432461.1637184904108@aol.com>
 <CAJ1eQwhsJO39pxj-CN+daMEsw8Cd9fujwkpFeodTYoEESJ_HZQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aaHf07u4CspCbMQ0JWq59dEVm+6tMdzrqL+q7EJJfONWg@mail.gmail.com>

David,

I am glad you got it out.  I have also read the myriad of descriptions of
the thing just popping out.  I have tried and given up on several cars.
However, have never had an issue re-using the old one.

I have a good stock of unused new ones bought with best intentions...

Greg Lemon
TR250


On Fri, Nov 26, 2021, 11:07 AM David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks again to everyone. I divided a method for getting the pilot bush
> out.
>
> See photo:
>
> [image: image.png]
>
> I didn't know it had a knurled end! No wonder it had such a grip on the
> crank!
>
> Dave
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 4:35 PM tritriple <tritriple at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> When all else fails......dynamite!!!! Just a small charge....
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>>
>>
>> -------- Original message --------
>> From: David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>> Date: 11/17/21 3:41 PM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
>> Cc: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville at hotmail.com>,
>> tritriple at aol.com, Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>, New England
>> Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>> Subject: Re: [NET] [TR] Pilot bush -- TR3
>>
>> Thank you, everyone for all your well-informed and helpful responses!
>>
>> I have now removed the flywheel and delivered it to the local machine
>> shop for resurfacing. In the meantime, the pilot bush STILL will not
>> come out of the back of the crankshaft and I am devising plans to get it to
>> move. I love when people say, "Do this and it will just pop out!"
>> Riggght....  :- )
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 3:28 PM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> When taking flywheel off on a Stag they recommend replacing the bolts.
>>> Not cheap.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Nov 17, 2021, 12:03 PM Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <
>>> deruiterville at hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> No problem with an impact wrench for removal.  To reinstall, here is my
>>>> version of a flywheel locking tool.  I'm unsure of the Churchill Tool
>>>> number, but note the calibrated on the 2x4 wedge where the flywheel teeth
>>>> dug in and locked.  Just tap the wedge in the starter hole to immobilize
>>>> the flywheel, torque down, and remove the highly calibrated tool for later
>>>> use.
>>>>
>>>> Randy
>>>>
>>>> ------------------------------
>>>> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David
>>>> Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
>>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 17, 2021 11:27 AM
>>>> *To:* tritriple at aol.com <tritriple at aol.com>
>>>> *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>;
>>>> net at newenglandtriumphs.org <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Since the flywheel/crank rotate when I try to loosen the flywheel bolts
>>>> with a ratchet wrench, is it permissible to use an air impact wrench to
>>>> loosen them or is that not a good idea?
>>>>
>>>> Dave
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 10:34 AM John Bowe via NET <
>>>> net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> A couple ways to remove bush..... If you have a wood dowel the right
>>>> size.  Fill the hole with grease and then jam dowel into bush. The pressure
>>>> of grease behind bush should push it out.  Another way is to find a thread
>>>> tap the right size for inside bush and wind it in. The tap will bottom out
>>>> in flywheel and pull the bush out.  If you have a small seal puller with
>>>> the outside facing arms that could work if there is room for fingers to get
>>>> behind bush edges.    Just a few of many ways.    See ya, John B.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>>>> To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <
>>>> net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>>>> Sent: Wed, Nov 17, 2021 10:03 am
>>>> Subject: [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
>>>>
>>>> Good morning listers!
>>>>
>>>> A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do
>>>> I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc
>>>> and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge....
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for any insights,
>>>>
>>>> Dave
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> NET mailing list
>>>> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
>>>>
>>>> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> NET mailing list
>>>> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
>>>>
>>>> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>>>>
>>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>>>>
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Fri Nov 26 10:42:17 2021
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2021 09:42:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwhsJO39pxj-CN+daMEsw8Cd9fujwkpFeodTYoEESJ_HZQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgE8ZxobXNvsurtxA4wcesdY18iVgS0K3n16jM-UT6dVw@mail.gmail.com>
 <63248794.432461.1637184904108@aol.com>
 <CAJ1eQwhsJO39pxj-CN+daMEsw8Cd9fujwkpFeodTYoEESJ_HZQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1037077286.954258.1637948537855@connect.xfinity.com>

I haven't seen one that is knurled like that.  Perhaps that's what made it difficult to remove.  Glad you got it out. 
Dave H. 

>     On 11/17/2021 2:21 PM David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> 
>     Thanks again to everyone. I divided a method for getting the pilot bush out. 
> 
>     See photo:
> 
>     [image.png]
> 
>     I didn't know it had a knurled end! No wonder it had such a grip on the crank!
> 
>     Dave
> 
> 
>     On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 4:35 PM tritriple <tritriple at aol.com mailto:tritriple at aol.com > wrote:
> 
>         > >         When all else fails......dynamite!!!! Just a small charge....
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >         Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> > 
> > 
> >         -------- Original message --------
> >         From: David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org >
> >         Date: 11/17/21 3:41 PM (GMT-05:00)
> >         To: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com mailto:triumphstag at gmail.com >
> >         Cc: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville at hotmail.com mailto:deruiterville at hotmail.com >, tritriple at aol.com mailto:tritriple at aol.com , Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net >, New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org >
> >         Subject: Re: [NET] [TR] Pilot bush -- TR3
> > 
> >         Thank you, everyone for all your well-informed and helpful responses!
> > 
> >         I have now removed the flywheel and delivered it to the local machine shop for resurfacing. In the meantime, the pilot bush STILL will not come out of the back of the crankshaft and I am devising plans to get it to move. I love when people say, "Do this and it will just pop out!" Riggght....  :- )
> > 
> >         Dave
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >         On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 3:28 PM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com mailto:triumphstag at gmail.com > wrote:
> > 
> >             > > >             When taking flywheel off on a Stag they recommend replacing the bolts. Not cheap. 
> > > 
> > > 
> > >             On Wed, Nov 17, 2021, 12:03 PM Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville at hotmail.com mailto:deruiterville at hotmail.com > wrote:
> > > 
> > >                 > > > >                 No problem with an impact wrench for removal.  To reinstall, here is my version of a flywheel locking tool.  I'm unsure of the Churchill Tool number, but note the calibrated on the 2x4 wedge where the flywheel teeth dug in and locked.  Just tap the wedge in the starter hole to immobilize the flywheel, torque down, and remove the highly calibrated tool for later use.
> > > > 
> > > >                 Randy
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > >                 ---------------------------------------------
> > > >                 From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > on behalf of David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com >
> > > >                 Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2021 11:27 AM
> > > >                 To: tritriple at aol.com mailto:tritriple at aol.com <tritriple at aol.com mailto:tritriple at aol.com >
> > > >                 Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net >; net at newenglandtriumphs.org mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org <net at newenglandtriumphs.org mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org >
> > > >                 Subject: Re: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > >                 Since the flywheel/crank rotate when I try to loosen the flywheel bolts with a ratchet wrench, is it permissible to use an air impact wrench to loosen them or is that not a good idea?
> > > > 
> > > >                 Dave
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > >                 On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 10:34 AM John Bowe via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org > wrote:
> > > > 
> > > >                     > > > > >                     A couple ways to remove bush..... If you have a wood dowel the right size.  Fill the hole with grease and then jam dowel into bush. The pressure of grease behind bush should push it out.  Another way is to find a thread tap the right size for inside bush and wind it in. The tap will bottom out in flywheel and pull the bush out.  If you have a small seal puller with the outside facing arms that could work if there is room for fingers to get behind bush edges.    Just a few of many ways.    See ya, John B.   
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     -----Original Message-----
> > > > >                     From: David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org >
> > > > >                     To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net >; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org >
> > > > >                     Sent: Wed, Nov 17, 2021 10:03 am
> > > > >                     Subject: [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     Good morning listers!
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do 
> > > > >                     I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc 
> > > > >                     and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge....
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     Thanks for any insights,
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     Dave
> > > > >                     _______________________________________________
> > > > >                     NET mailing list
> > > > >                     NET at newenglandtriumphs.org mailto:NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
> > > > >                     http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
> > > > >                     _______________________________________________
> > > > >                     NET mailing list
> > > > >                     NET at newenglandtriumphs.org mailto:NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
> > > > >                     http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
> > > > > 
> > > > >                 > > > >                 ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net **
> > > > 
> > > >                 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > >                 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> > > > 
> > > >                 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
> > > > 
> > > >             > > > 
> > >         > > 
> >     >     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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> 
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From robertrudolphi at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 28 07:15:44 2021
From: robertrudolphi at yahoo.com (robert rudolphi)
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2021 14:15:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] What can come off of a 74 Tr6 intake manifold and refinish
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwhsJO39pxj-CN+daMEsw8Cd9fujwkpFeodTYoEESJ_HZQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgE8ZxobXNvsurtxA4wcesdY18iVgS0K3n16jM-UT6dVw@mail.gmail.com>
 <63248794.432461.1637184904108@aol.com>
 <CAJ1eQwhsJO39pxj-CN+daMEsw8Cd9fujwkpFeodTYoEESJ_HZQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1445562834.6005233.1638108944281@mail.yahoo.com>

Hello all,

I am having my intake and exhaust manifolds refinished. A couple questions, first I am having trouble getting the carb insulators off the intake, any tricks you can suggest? Also, the two brass pieces, do they come off or is it better just to tape them off? I am thinking about having both either Jet coated or ceramic coated (although seems to me the same thing) and but open to refinish suggestions.

?
Thanks in advance for any feedback.

?
Robert

Robert Rudolphi

74 TR6

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sun Nov 28 18:30:29 2021
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (tedtsimx at bright.net)
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2021 20:30:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] What can come off of a 74 Tr6 intake manifold and
 refinish
In-Reply-To: <1445562834.6005233.1638108944281@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2a43a2f2-3f11-4af0-afe4-21e720b8cd70@email.android.com>

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Fri Nov 26 10:11:01 2021
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2021 11:11:01 -0600
Subject: [TR] Pilot bush -- TR3
In-Reply-To: <870927fc44a54c82ba8afc70406670bd@chinaautogroup.com>
References: <870927fc44a54c82ba8afc70406670bd@chinaautogroup.com>
Message-ID: <7D7F5CF5-9199-483E-B96E-337C6A38304F@yahoo.com>

Yup, this works, or,  pump oil in to soak the bread. 
Bill B
TS30800L

?Last night I saw upon the stair,
A little man who wasn't there,
He wasn't there again today
Oh, how I wish he'd go away?.... Mearns

On Nov 26, 2021, at 11:05 AM, Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com> wrote:

?
OK, call me crazy, but watch this YouTube video on how to remove a pilot bushing or bearing with bread.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00OlG5E8vLk
 
I have found pullers to be of little use as it is hard to get a grip on the back side of the bushing?..but this method actually works.
 
Steve Kirby
President
China Auto Group
22831 Avenida Empresa
Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA
Direct:  (949) 261-8208
Fax:  (949) 767-5949
Cell:  (949) 903-0957
Skype: steve.kirby29
www.chinaautogroup.com
 
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Triumph
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2021 8:14 AM
To: 'David Friedlander' <forzion7 at gmail.com>; 'DAVE HOGYE' <dlhogye at comcast.net>; 'New England Triumphs' <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>; 'TR3 Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Pilot bush -- TR3
 
When I tried to replace mine years ago on my 59 TR3A, I tried all the usual tricks. I even bought a pilot bushing puller. Eventually I stuck my finger into the bushing and found I could move it fore and aft about 1/8 inch as it was loose in the bore but it hit the back side of the flywheel and would go no further. Once I removed the flywheel it popped right out.
Afterwards, I measured the holes and the flywheel hole was definitely smaller than the crankshaft hole.
Bob Maassel
Fort Wayne
 
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2021 10:59 AM
To: DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>; TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Pilot bush -- TR3
 
 
Thanks, Dave. Interesting. There seems to be a difference of opinion on this subject. But, if the flywheel needs to be resurfaced anyway, it may be a moot point. I guess I?ll pull off the flywheel and, if the pilot bush still doesn?t budge, I?ll have to take more drastic measures?
 
Dave
 
 
On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 10:53 AM DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:
Hi Dave,
The flywheel does not need to come off.  There are tricks to removing the bushing with a grease gun or jamming a piece of bread in there.  Forcing something in there will push out the bush.
If you are replacing the clutch disc and pressure plate the flywheel should always come off and be resurfaced.
Dave H. 
On 11/17/2021 7:03 AM David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
 
 
Good morning listers!
 
A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do 
I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc 
and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge....
 
Thanks for any insights,
 
Dave
** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive 

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From mmarr at albiontechnical.com  Fri Nov 26 10:55:55 2021
From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2021 17:55:55 +0000
Subject: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
In-Reply-To: <1037077286.954258.1637948537855@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgE8ZxobXNvsurtxA4wcesdY18iVgS0K3n16jM-UT6dVw@mail.gmail.com>
 <63248794.432461.1637184904108@aol.com>
 <CAJ1eQwhsJO39pxj-CN+daMEsw8Cd9fujwkpFeodTYoEESJ_HZQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1037077286.954258.1637948537855@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <4A9B80F5-F180-481A-B365-D12BB42B7E4E@albiontechnical.com>

That?s an old machinist?s trick - if a bushing is too loose in a hole, knurl the outside and the peaks created by the knurling tool will take up the excessive clearance. But I doubt that that caused it to stick, because the contact area between a knurled Bush and its hole is somewhat less than a plain bush and its hole. Maybe somebody loctited it.

Mike

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 26, 2021, at 11:43, DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:

?
I haven't seen one that is knurled like that.  Perhaps that's what made it difficult to remove.  Glad you got it out.
Dave H.
On 11/17/2021 2:21 PM David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:


Thanks again to everyone. I divided a method for getting the pilot bush out.

See photo:

<image.png>


I didn't know it had a knurled end! No wonder it had such a grip on the crank!

Dave


On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 4:35 PM tritriple <tritriple at aol.com<mailto:tritriple at aol.com>> wrote:
When all else fails......dynamite!!!! Just a small charge....



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>
Date: 11/17/21 3:41 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com<mailto:triumphstag at gmail.com>>
Cc: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville at hotmail.com<mailto:deruiterville at hotmail.com>>, tritriple at aol.com<mailto:tritriple at aol.com>, Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>, New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>
Subject: Re: [NET] [TR] Pilot bush -- TR3

Thank you, everyone for all your well-informed and helpful responses!

I have now removed the flywheel and delivered it to the local machine shop for resurfacing. In the meantime, the pilot bush STILL will not come out of the back of the crankshaft and I am devising plans to get it to move. I love when people say, "Do this and it will just pop out!" Riggght....  :- )

Dave



On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 3:28 PM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com<mailto:triumphstag at gmail.com>> wrote:
When taking flywheel off on a Stag they recommend replacing the bolts. Not cheap.


On Wed, Nov 17, 2021, 12:03 PM Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville at hotmail.com<mailto:deruiterville at hotmail.com>> wrote:
No problem with an impact wrench for removal.  To reinstall, here is my version of a flywheel locking tool.  I'm unsure of the Churchill Tool number, but note the calibrated on the 2x4 wedge where the flywheel teeth dug in and locked.  Just tap the wedge in the starter hole to immobilize the flywheel, torque down, and remove the highly calibrated tool for later use.

Randy


________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com<mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2021 11:27 AM
To: tritriple at aol.com<mailto:tritriple at aol.com> <tritriple at aol.com<mailto:tritriple at aol.com>>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>; net at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org> <net at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>
Subject: Re: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3


Since the flywheel/crank rotate when I try to loosen the flywheel bolts with a ratchet wrench, is it permissible to use an air impact wrench to loosen them or is that not a good idea?

Dave


On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 10:34 AM John Bowe via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>> wrote:
A couple ways to remove bush..... If you have a wood dowel the right size.  Fill the hole with grease and then jam dowel into bush. The pressure of grease behind bush should push it out.  Another way is to find a thread tap the right size for inside bush and wind it in. The tap will bottom out in flywheel and pull the bush out.  If you have a small seal puller with the outside facing arms that could work if there is room for fingers to get behind bush edges.    Just a few of many ways.    See ya, John B.



-----Original Message-----
From: David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>
To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>
Sent: Wed, Nov 17, 2021 10:03 am
Subject: [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3

Good morning listers!

A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do
I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc
and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge....

Thanks for any insights,

Dave
_______________________________________________
NET mailing list
NET at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:NET at newenglandtriumphs.org>
http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__newenglandtriumphs.org_mailman_listinfo_net-5Fnewenglandtriumphs.org&d=DwMFaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=ZL72bAI1JPJc9vRTinBYdBBQ6tmzJojxi5hwKGWykNo&s=x3zgcgjBw0kMbzTfAOhEk33ZozJWGZwrf3TqSzIR1BU&e=>
_______________________________________________
NET mailing list
NET at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:NET at newenglandtriumphs.org>
http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__newenglandtriumphs.org_mailman_listinfo_net-5Fnewenglandtriumphs.org&d=DwMFaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=ZL72bAI1JPJc9vRTinBYdBBQ6tmzJojxi5hwKGWykNo&s=x3zgcgjBw0kMbzTfAOhEk33ZozJWGZwrf3TqSzIR1BU&e=>
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Fri Nov 26 11:14:17 2021
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2021 13:14:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pilot bush -- TR3
In-Reply-To: <870927fc44a54c82ba8afc70406670bd@chinaautogroup.com>
References: <870927fc44a54c82ba8afc70406670bd@chinaautogroup.com>
Message-ID: <A28A7C65-BABB-4601-8A75-9A5600719951@gmail.com>

That?s awesome.  Love the bread trick.  Also have not seen a pilot bushing like that before.  Glad you got it out.
Jim Henningsen


> On Nov 26, 2021, at 12:05 PM, Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> OK, call me crazy, but watch this YouTube video on how to remove a pilot bushing or bearing with bread.
>  
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00OlG5E8vLk
>  
> I have found pullers to be of little use as it is hard to get a grip on the back side of the bushing?..but this method actually works.
>  
> Steve Kirby
> President
> China Auto Group
> 22831 Avenida Empresa
> Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA
> Direct:  (949) 261-8208
> Fax:  (949) 767-5949
> Cell:  (949) 903-0957
> Skype: steve.kirby29
> www.chinaautogroup.com
>  
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Triumph
> Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2021 8:14 AM
> To: 'David Friedlander' <forzion7 at gmail.com>; 'DAVE HOGYE' <dlhogye at comcast.net>; 'New England Triumphs' <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>; 'TR3 Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Pilot bush -- TR3
>  
> When I tried to replace mine years ago on my 59 TR3A, I tried all the usual tricks. I even bought a pilot bushing puller. Eventually I stuck my finger into the bushing and found I could move it fore and aft about 1/8 inch as it was loose in the bore but it hit the back side of the flywheel and would go no further. Once I removed the flywheel it popped right out.
> Afterwards, I measured the holes and the flywheel hole was definitely smaller than the crankshaft hole.
> Bob Maassel
> Fort Wayne
>  
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander
> Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2021 10:59 AM
> To: DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>; TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Pilot bush -- TR3
>  
>  
> Thanks, Dave. Interesting. There seems to be a difference of opinion on this subject. But, if the flywheel needs to be resurfaced anyway, it may be a moot point. I guess I?ll pull off the flywheel and, if the pilot bush still doesn?t budge, I?ll have to take more drastic measures?
>  
> Dave
>  
>  
> On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 10:53 AM DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:
> Hi Dave,
> The flywheel does not need to come off.  There are tricks to removing the bushing with a grease gun or jamming a piece of bread in there.  Forcing something in there will push out the bush.
> If you are replacing the clutch disc and pressure plate the flywheel should always come off and be resurfaced.
> Dave H. 
> On 11/17/2021 7:03 AM David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
>  
>  
> Good morning listers!
>  
> A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do 
> I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc 
> and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge....
>  
> Thanks for any insights,
>  
> Dave
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 
> 
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Fri Nov 26 12:56:20 2021
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2021 14:56:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
In-Reply-To: <4A9B80F5-F180-481A-B365-D12BB42B7E4E@albiontechnical.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgE8ZxobXNvsurtxA4wcesdY18iVgS0K3n16jM-UT6dVw@mail.gmail.com>
 <63248794.432461.1637184904108@aol.com>
 <CAJ1eQwhsJO39pxj-CN+daMEsw8Cd9fujwkpFeodTYoEESJ_HZQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1037077286.954258.1637948537855@connect.xfinity.com>
 <4A9B80F5-F180-481A-B365-D12BB42B7E4E@albiontechnical.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwj+QowysHr_9ZJwDx9uOmzFT25q8zRc0DQM9Z4EUDHumQ@mail.gmail.com>

All I know is, nothing else worked until I got the idea to tap the ID of
the bush (9/16 tap) then threaded in a bolt of that size long enough to
bottom-out in the hole behind the bush. The force of the threads pushing
outward freed the bush with something of a ?pop?. Glad it?s out!

Dave

On Fri, Nov 26, 2021 at 12:56 PM Michael Marr <mmarr at albiontechnical.com>
wrote:

> That?s an old machinist?s trick - if a bushing is too loose in a hole,
> knurl the outside and the peaks created by the knurling tool will take up
> the excessive clearance. But I doubt that that caused it to stick, because
> the contact area between a knurled Bush and its hole is somewhat less than
> a plain bush and its hole. Maybe somebody loctited it.
>
> Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 26, 2021, at 11:43, DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> ?
> I haven't seen one that is knurled like that.  Perhaps that's what made it
> difficult to remove.  Glad you got it out.
> Dave H.
>
> On 11/17/2021 2:21 PM David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks again to everyone. I divided a method for getting the pilot bush
> out.
>
> See photo:
>
> <image.png>
>
>
> I didn't know it had a knurled end! No wonder it had such a grip on the
> crank!
>
> Dave
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 4:35 PM tritriple <tritriple at aol.com> wrote:
>
> When all else fails......dynamite!!!! Just a small charge....
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> Date: 11/17/21 3:41 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
> Cc: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville at hotmail.com>,
> tritriple at aol.com, Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>, New England
> Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> Subject: Re: [NET] [TR] Pilot bush -- TR3
>
> Thank you, everyone for all your well-informed and helpful responses!
>
> I have now removed the flywheel and delivered it to the local machine shop
> for resurfacing. In the meantime, the pilot bush STILL will not come out of
> the back of the crankshaft and I am devising plans to get it to move. I
> love when people say, "Do this and it will just pop out!" Riggght....  :- )
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 3:28 PM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> When taking flywheel off on a Stag they recommend replacing the bolts. Not
> cheap.
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 17, 2021, 12:03 PM Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <
> deruiterville at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> No problem with an impact wrench for removal.  To reinstall, here is my
> version of a flywheel locking tool.  I'm unsure of the Churchill Tool
> number, but note the calibrated on the 2x4 wedge where the flywheel teeth
> dug in and locked.  Just tap the wedge in the starter hole to immobilize
> the flywheel, torque down, and remove the highly calibrated tool for later
> use.
>
> Randy
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David
> Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 17, 2021 11:27 AM
> *To:* tritriple at aol.com <tritriple at aol.com>
> *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>;
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
>
>
> Since the flywheel/crank rotate when I try to loosen the flywheel bolts
> with a ratchet wrench, is it permissible to use an air impact wrench to
> loosen them or is that not a good idea?
>
> Dave
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 17, 2021 at 10:34 AM John Bowe via NET <
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:
>
> A couple ways to remove bush..... If you have a wood dowel the right
> size.  Fill the hole with grease and then jam dowel into bush. The pressure
> of grease behind bush should push it out.  Another way is to find a thread
> tap the right size for inside bush and wind it in. The tap will bottom out
> in flywheel and pull the bush out.  If you have a small seal puller with
> the outside facing arms that could work if there is room for fingers to get
> behind bush edges.    Just a few of many ways.    See ya, John B.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> Sent: Wed, Nov 17, 2021 10:03 am
> Subject: [NET] Pilot bush -- TR3
>
> Good morning listers!
>
> A quick question: To remove the pilot bushing from the crank, do
> I also have to remove the flywheel? I've already removed the disc
> and pressure plate but the pilot doesn't seem to want to budge....
>
> Thanks for any insights,
>
> Dave
> _______________________________________________
> NET mailing list
> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue Nov 30 07:13:56 2021
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2021 07:13:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] OD gear box question
Message-ID: <69c52cf4-7173-461c-b4de-515b825e22a8@porterscustom.com>

Owners,?? I acquired a Factory OD gear box for my '71 and discovered 
that the transmission mounts on my chassis do not correspond to the 
mount on the box... So, were the cars ordered with OD modified at the 
chassis mount location?

 ?With the OD, removing the driveshaft becomes a bit more 
problematic...due to moving the mount rearward nearly 6 inches. DaveP

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/


From jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com  Tue Nov 30 07:32:03 2021
From: jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com (jerry van vlack)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2021 09:32:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] OD gear box question
In-Reply-To: <69c52cf4-7173-461c-b4de-515b825e22a8@porterscustom.com>
References: <69c52cf4-7173-461c-b4de-515b825e22a8@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <B6DE60C6-8856-4396-9048-CC43BC608C6C@hxcore.ol>

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Nov 30 07:34:38 2021
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2021 14:34:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] OD gear box question
In-Reply-To: <69c52cf4-7173-461c-b4de-515b825e22a8@porterscustom.com>
References: <69c52cf4-7173-461c-b4de-515b825e22a8@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <1253673603.2788570.1638282878840@mail.yahoo.com>

 Did you get the A-type or J-type overdrive.? They switched in 1973 from the A to the J-type and modified the frame to suit.? The J-type is not a direct fit.? It can be done but it is an unorthodox mounting.? IOW: roll your own.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Nov 30, 2021 8:13 am
Subject: [TR] OD gear box question

Owners,?? I acquired a Factory OD gear box for my '71 and discovered 
that the transmission mounts on my chassis do not correspond to the 
mount on the box... So, were the cars ordered with OD modified at the 
chassis mount location?

 ?With the OD, removing the driveshaft becomes a bit more 
problematic...due to moving the mount rearward nearly 6 inches. DaveP

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue Nov 30 07:37:19 2021
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2021 07:37:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] OD gear box question
In-Reply-To: <B6DE60C6-8856-4396-9048-CC43BC608C6C@hxcore.ol>
References: <69c52cf4-7173-461c-b4de-515b825e22a8@porterscustom.com>
 <B6DE60C6-8856-4396-9048-CC43BC608C6C@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <9f09575d-3e78-4958-2fea-706fa2fd670e@porterscustom.com>

sorry, I thought everyone knew I have a TR6....LOL

On 11/30/2021 7:32 AM, jerry van vlack wrote:
>
> What model Triumph? If TR series it should mount with little to no 
> difficulty but other models may be different.
>
> JVV
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows
>
> *From: *David P <mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com>
> *Sent: *Tuesday, November 30, 2021 9:17 AM
> *To: *Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[TR] OD gear box question
>
> Owners,?? I acquired a Factory OD gear box for my '71 and discovered
>
> that the transmission mounts on my chassis do not correspond to the
>
> mount on the box... So, were the cars ordered with OD modified at the
>
> chassis mount location?
>
> ?With the OD, removing the driveshaft becomes a bit more
>
> problematic...due to moving the mount rearward nearly 6 inches. DaveP
>
> -- 
>
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 
> My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue Nov 30 07:40:14 2021
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2021 07:40:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] OD gear box question
In-Reply-To: <1253673603.2788570.1638282878840@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <69c52cf4-7173-461c-b4de-515b825e22a8@porterscustom.com>
 <1253673603.2788570.1638282878840@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <b26a33c3-2d22-2641-f574-d357b53c81c0@porterscustom.com>

Yes, J type for a 71' TR6??? Yep, some angle iron made it work.. No 
drilling needed... a MIG yes.. LOL? Dave, do you know the reduction 
percentage of the J type?? dp

On 11/30/2021 7:34 AM, DAVID MASSEY wrote:
> Did you get the A-type or J-type overdrive.? They switched in 1973 
> from the A to the J-type and modified the frame to suit.? The J-type 
> is not a direct fit.? It can be done but it is an unorthodox 
> mounting.? IOW: roll your own.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
> To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, Nov 30, 2021 8:13 am
> Subject: [TR] OD gear box question
>
> Owners,?? I acquired a Factory OD gear box for my '71 and discovered
> that the transmission mounts on my chassis do not correspond to the
> mount on the box... So, were the cars ordered with OD modified at the
> chassis mount location?
>
> ?With the OD, removing the driveshaft becomes a bit more
> problematic...due to moving the mount rearward nearly 6 inches. DaveP
>
> -- 
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 
> My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Nov 30 07:59:07 2021
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2021 14:59:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] OD gear box question
In-Reply-To: <b26a33c3-2d22-2641-f574-d357b53c81c0@porterscustom.com>
References: <69c52cf4-7173-461c-b4de-515b825e22a8@porterscustom.com>
 <1253673603.2788570.1638282878840@mail.yahoo.com>
 <b26a33c3-2d22-2641-f574-d357b53c81c0@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <207685960.1579868.1638284347138@mail.yahoo.com>

 Not off hand but it is better than what you get with the A-type.? What I recall is that 3000 RPM will give you 75 MPH with an A-type and 78 with a J-type.
Yes, I did it with some angle iron and a stack of rubber washers.? I have since switched to a newer frame from a '73 so I am back to factory-fit.? A local club member put a J-type in his '71 but I haven't seen how he did it.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Nov 30, 2021 8:40 am
Subject: Re: [TR] OD gear box question

 Yes, J type for a 71' TR6??? Yep, some angle iron made it work.. No drilling needed... a MIG yes.. LOL? Dave, do you know the reduction percentage of the J type?? dp
  On 11/30/2021 7:34 AM, DAVID MASSEY wrote:
  
 
  Did you get the A-type or J-type overdrive.? They switched in 1973 from the A to the J-type and modified the frame to suit.? The J-type is not a direct fit.? It can be done but it is an unorthodox mounting.? IOW: roll your own.
   
  Dave 
 
   
   
  -----Original Message-----
 From: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
 To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
 Sent: Tue, Nov 30, 2021 8:13 am
 Subject: [TR] OD gear box question
 
 Owners,?? I acquired a Factory OD gear box for my '71 and discovered 
  that the transmission mounts on my chassis do not correspond to the 
  mount on the box... So, were the cars ordered with OD modified at the 
  chassis mount location?
  
   ?With the OD, removing the driveshaft becomes a bit more 
  problematic...due to moving the mount rearward nearly 6 inches. DaveP
  
  -- 
  Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
  
  ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
  
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
  
  Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
    -- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ 
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue Nov 30 08:52:41 2021
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2021 08:52:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] OD gear box question
In-Reply-To: <207685960.1579868.1638284347138@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <69c52cf4-7173-461c-b4de-515b825e22a8@porterscustom.com>
 <1253673603.2788570.1638282878840@mail.yahoo.com>
 <b26a33c3-2d22-2641-f574-d357b53c81c0@porterscustom.com>
 <207685960.1579868.1638284347138@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4ce6792e-c2ec-fc49-1ec4-8748fc098d44@porterscustom.com>

I only cut the left side factory mount off as it directly hit the 
($200+) solenoid and used the factory angled rubber bush cross mount on 
angle and square iron bits. So, the rubber bits can be replaced, but the 
cross piece has to be partially removed to remove the drive shaft. A 
small inconvenience for the next luck owner..?? A types were 22% or 
28%.. I'm thinking the J is 25% ? With the newly added 3.45:1 rear gear 
set 70MPH is showing 2600RPM. Nice for our NM long distances.... Factory 
is saying 90wt gear oil... what is your recommendation for oil?? Seems 
heavy for cold weather temps.? DP

On 11/30/2021 7:59 AM, DAVID MASSEY wrote:
> Not off hand but it is better than what you get with the A-type.? What 
> I recall is that 3000 RPM will give you 75 MPH with an A-type and 78 
> with a J-type.
>
> Yes, I did it with some angle iron and a stack of rubber washers.? I 
> have since switched to a newer frame from a '73 so I am back to 
> factory-fit.? A local club member put a J-type in his '71 but I 
> haven't seen how he did it.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
> To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net 
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, Nov 30, 2021 8:40 am
> Subject: Re: [TR] OD gear box question
>
> Yes, J type for a 71' TR6??? Yep, some angle iron made it work.. No 
> drilling needed... a MIG yes.. LOL Dave, do you know the reduction 
> percentage of the J type?? dp
> On 11/30/2021 7:34 AM, DAVID MASSEY wrote:
> Did you get the A-type or J-type overdrive.? They switched in 1973 
> from the A to the J-type and modified the frame to suit.? The J-type 
> is not a direct fit.? It can be done but it is an unorthodox 
> mounting.? IOW: roll your own.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> 
> <mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com>
> To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net 
> <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>) <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
> <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, Nov 30, 2021 8:13 am
> Subject: [TR] OD gear box question
>
> Owners,?? I acquired a Factory OD gear box for my '71 and discovered
> that the transmission mounts on my chassis do not correspond to the
> mount on the box... So, were the cars ordered with OD modified at the
> chassis mount location?
>
> ?With the OD, removing the driveshaft becomes a bit more
> problematic...due to moving the mount rearward nearly 6 inches. DaveP
>
> -- 
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 
> My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ <http://www.porterbikes.com/>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs> http://www.team.net/archive 
> <http://www.team.net/archive>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com 
> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com>
> -- 
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/  <http://www.porterbikes.com/>

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Nov 30 09:45:02 2021
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2021 16:45:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] OD gear box question
In-Reply-To: <4ce6792e-c2ec-fc49-1ec4-8748fc098d44@porterscustom.com>
References: <69c52cf4-7173-461c-b4de-515b825e22a8@porterscustom.com>
 <1253673603.2788570.1638282878840@mail.yahoo.com>
 <b26a33c3-2d22-2641-f574-d357b53c81c0@porterscustom.com>
 <207685960.1579868.1638284347138@mail.yahoo.com>
 <4ce6792e-c2ec-fc49-1ec4-8748fc098d44@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <682105966.1919602.1638290702264@mail.yahoo.com>

 I've had good luck with Red Line MTL or MT90.? Some swear by 30W non-detergent motor oil (what I run in the TR3).? Still others prefer the GM Synchromesh Lub.
Anything is better than nothing.
BTW, the overdrive will tell you when the lub is low.? It stops engaging when the level drops too low.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Nov 30, 2021 9:52 am
Subject: Re: [TR] OD gear box question

 I only cut the left side factory mount off as it directly hit the ($200+) solenoid and used the factory angled rubber bush cross mount on angle and square iron bits. So, the rubber bits can be replaced, but the cross piece has to be partially removed to remove the drive shaft. A small inconvenience for the next luck owner..?? A types were 22% or 28%.. I'm thinking the J is 25% ?? With the newly added 3.45:1 rear gear set 70MPH is showing 2600RPM. Nice for our NM long distances.... Factory is saying 90wt gear oil... what is your recommendation for oil?? Seems heavy for cold weather temps.? DP
  On 11/30/2021 7:59 AM, DAVID MASSEY wrote:
  
 
  Not off hand but it is better than what you get with the A-type.? What I recall is that 3000 RPM will give you 75 MPH with an A-type and 78 with a J-type. 
  Yes, I did it with some angle iron and a stack of rubber washers.? I have since switched to a newer frame from a '73 so I am back to factory-fit.? A local club member put a J-type in his '71 but I haven't seen how he did it.
   
  Dave 
 
   
   
  -----Original Message-----
 From: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
 To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
 Sent: Tue, Nov 30, 2021 8:40 am
 Subject: Re: [TR] OD gear box question
 
   Yes, J type for a 71' TR6??? Yep, some angle iron made it work.. No drilling needed... a MIG yes.. LOL? Dave, do you know the reduction percentage of the J type?? dp
   On 11/30/2021 7:34 AM, DAVID MASSEY wrote:
  
 
       Did you get the A-type or J-type overdrive.? They switched in 1973 from the A to the J-type and modified the frame to suit.? The J-type is not a direct fit.? It can be done but it is an unorthodox mounting.? IOW: roll your own.
   
  Dave 
 
   
   
  -----Original Message-----
 From: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
 To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
 Sent: Tue, Nov 30, 2021 8:13 am
 Subject: [TR] OD gear box question
 
  Owners,?? I acquired a Factory OD gear box for my '71 and discovered 
  that the transmission mounts on my chassis do not correspond to the 
  mount on the box... So, were the cars ordered with OD modified at the 
  chassis mount location?
  
   ?With the OD, removing the driveshaft becomes a bit more 
  problematic...due to moving the mount rearward nearly 6 inches. DaveP
  
  -- 
  Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
  
  ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
  
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
  
  Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
    -- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/      -- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ 
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