[TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps

Greg Lemon grglmn at gmail.com
Sun May 2 16:11:57 MDT 2021


Would it work to make a circular recess in the valve and put a quality or
ring slightly proud to get a good seal.  Would look the same from the
outside

I suppose if it crusted up over time the o-ring would no longer seal very
well.  I have lapped these valves and gotten them to seal pretty well.

The standards have changed quite a bit since these cars were built with the
radiator and fuel overflow "reservoirs" being the road or your garage.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Sun, May 2, 2021, 4:16 PM Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>
wrote:

> I can provide the definitive answer to this question because my company
> makes these aftermarket valves for Moss Motors (who probably resells them
> to everyone else in the world).
>
>
>
> The response “they all leak” is absolutely correct.  In fact, the problem
> is so pervasive and resistant to all attempts to solve the problem in
> manufacturing, that Moss no longer sells a functional valve.  What they
> sell has no internal drillings, it is just a plug.  It is made to look like
> the original for authenticity purposes, but does not function (and hence
> does not leak).
>
>
>
> If you disassemble one of these, original or repro, you will see that
> there are no seals.  The “sealing” is accomplished by a tapered metal stem
> fitted into a similarly tapered metal body.  The two parts are “clamped”
> together by virtue of the external spring and depend totally on a very
> tight and concentric fit between the two metal parts.  This valve was
> designed well before cars had pressurized cooling systems.  And yes, they
> always leaked.  But back in the day, before people started using distilled
> water and high quality antifreeze with effective anti-corrosion additives,
> the valves quickly plugged up with corrosion and, voila, stopped leaking.
> When they were opened and reclosed, they leaked again, until the corrosion
> re-plugged them.
>
>
>
> If you are dead set on trying to make one leakproof, get some valve
> lapping compound, disassemble the valve, and “lap” the two parts together
> for an hour or so, until the two surfaces are as smooth and concentric as
> possible.  I have seen this work on occasion.  Basically you are perfecting
> the seating of the stem in the body.
>
>
>
> If you just want to stop the valve from leaking and don’t care about the
> function, you can remove the valve and plug or solder the inlet port.
>
>
>
> Jaguar used this same valve as a block mounted oil drain tap, with a bit
> more success due to the higher viscosity of oil vs. water.  Several British
> motorcycle companies and Indian used this valve as a fuel shut off (and you
> can imagine how that worked!).
>
>
>
> Hope that solves the mystery.
>
>
>
> *Steve Kirby*
>
> *President*
>
> *China Auto Group*
>
> 22831 Avenida Empresa
>
> Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA
>
> Direct:  (949) 261-8208
>
> Fax:  (949) 767-5949
>
> Cell:  (949) 903-0957
>
> Skype: steve.kirby29
>
> www.chinaautogroup.com
>
>
>
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *
> Kinderlehrer
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 2, 2021 10:40 AM
> *To:* 'Brian Thomas' <thomasb at queensu.ca>; triumphs at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps
>
>
>
> Hi Brian,
>
> Moss’s response to the leaking issue was “they all do that”. It’s been
> many years since I had this same issue. I solved it by taking the valve
> apart and polishing the parts. I don’t remember how I polished them, maybe
> it was compound or 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper.  Some PTFE on the threads
> that go into the block or radiator also helps. Anyway, no drips since.  I
> had to do this on 2 radiators.
>
>
>
> The other alternative is to use a “modern” petcock.
>
>
>
> Hope this helps,
>
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>] *On Behalf Of *Brian Thomas
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 02, 2021 9:11 AM
> *To:* triumphs at autox.team.net
> *Cc:* Brad Smith (britspcars at gmail.com)
> *Subject:* [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> I’m having great difficulty getting either of the drain taps in the TR2 to
> stop leaking.  I’ve tried various used taps from my 45+ year “collection”
> without any success.  The taps leak mostly out the drain hole but some also
> where screwed into the block/rad.
>
>
>
> I recently ordered a pair of new replacements from Rimmer with high hopes
> but after install, both leak from the side opposite the lever – see pic.
> This is with antifreeze in, rad cap off and no pressurization.  I’ve asked
> Rimmer for comment, but they are closed until Tuesday (bank holiday Monday).
>
>
>
>
>
> The pic is shows the engine install with the spring portion “up” – that’s
> what it tightened to.
>
>
>
> Has anyone had success with current offerings from the various vendors?  I
> see Moss also offers them – others?  TRF doesn’t currently have them.
>
>
>
> I’m about to give up and try the Don Elliot solution sealing the taps
> where they thread into the block/rad.
>
>
>
> Appreciate any suggestions.
>
>
>
> Stay well and cheers,
>
>
>
> Brian
>
> _____________________________________________________
>
> Brian Thomas                            E-Mail:  Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca
>
> 92 Wyona Lane                          Phone:  613-385-1947
>
> Wolfe Island,  Ontario                Toys:  54 TR2,  56 TR3,  67 TR4A,
>
> Canada  K0H 2Y0                                   01 XKR,  75 John Deere
> 920
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
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