From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat May 1 07:29:26 2021 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net) Date: Sat, 1 May 2021 09:29:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Too much time on my hands In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005b01d73e8e$025c4ac0$0714e040$@uprichard.net> Drew Holliday recently compiled a list. Your car is there! https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ycZ2o6UiAcHK6QksaRXBCH_uvjcRXpny/view Andrew Uprichard From: Triumphs On Behalf Of David Brady Sent: Friday, April 30, 2021 8:52 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Too much time on my hands There's also one on Bringatrailer which is somewhat interesting. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1968-triumph-tr250-30/ Does anyone have list of TR250 engine numbers? All this talk about authenticity has me checking my engine. The number is CC157. I'm the second owner, have owned the car for 33 years, but the engine has been out of my sight a couple of times. Thanks, David CD8124L TR250 -----Original Message----- From: DAVID MASSEY > Sent: Apr 30, 2021 5:35 PM To: auprichard at uprichard.net >, 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net >, Triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Too much time on my hands Hmmm. I see a few concour deductions. Quite an investment in that one. Dave -----Original Message----- From: auprichard at uprichard.net To: 'DAVID MASSEY' >; 6pack at autox.team.net ; Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Apr 30, 2021 1:23 pm Subject: RE: [TR] Too much time on my hands #yiv6092296048 #yiv6092296048 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv6092296048 #yiv6092296048 p.yiv6092296048MsoNormal, #yiv6092296048 li.yiv6092296048MsoNormal, #yiv6092296048 div.yiv6092296048MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv6092296048 a:link, #yiv6092296048 span.yiv6092296048MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6092296048 p.yiv6092296048msonormal, #yiv6092296048 li.yiv6092296048msonormal, #yiv6092296048 div.yiv6092296048msonormal {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv6092296048 span.yiv6092296048EmailStyle28 {font-family:New serif;color:#1F497D;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none none;}#yiv6092296048 .yiv6092296048MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv6092296048 div.yiv6092296048WordSection1 {}#yiv6092296048 Just because you are on a diet doesn?t mean you can?t look at the menu ? And then there is this TR4 in Washington state: https://www.nweuro.com/1963-triumph-tr4.......... Dreamin? Andrew From: DAVID MASSEY > Sent: Friday, April 30, 2021 2:21 PM To: auprichard at uprichard.net ; auprichard at uprichard.net ; 6pack at autox.team.net ; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Too much time on my hands I thought you were done getting new cars. ;-)Dave On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 10:52, auprichard at uprichard.net wrote:It?s a cold and rainy day here in Michigan ? very Irish. Killing time looking at various cars and came across this 250: https://www.ebay.com/itm/203348631355?hash=item2f5885df3b%3Ag%3A1pgAAOSw4j1gdxoh &LH_ItemCondition=3000%7C1000%7C2500 Looks like a TR4 hood/bonnet and 4A grille with no appropriate badges on the trunk/boot either. No stripe. But the seats look to be correct for a 250. Is that dash correct? Andrew UprichardJackson, Michigan** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dmb993 at earthlink.net

-------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dmb993 at earthlink.net Sat May 1 09:22:01 2021 From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (David Brady) Date: Sat, 01 May 2021 15:22:01 +0000 Subject: [TR] Too much time on my hands Message-ID: <8556a088-9da3-6c69-37a3-d1fcc1d6dd7d@earthlink.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Sat May 1 12:55:29 2021 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Sat, 1 May 2021 11:55:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: Instead of using lock-tite to seal a bolt hole, what are others using to stop oil seeping past the threads of a bolt? While sorting out my box of bolts for my planned gearbox rebuild for Stag no.3, many years off by the way. I came to realize that for Stag no.2 I used regular HU labeled bolts instead of these special ones. I now see from my spare gearbox shell that some of the bolt holes are not blind and go into the gearbox and hence oil can seep through past the bolts. (These bolts are used to hold the OD adapter on the end of the gearbox. ) some have suggested fiber,copper or dowty washers but is there a paste liquid I can apply on the threads. The TR6 gearbox case is similar to that of the Stag -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Sat May 1 12:59:21 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Sat, 1 May 2021 13:59:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2E4119C0-0828-40E8-A4C0-F1780FDCC9B7@yahoo.com> Permatex has a white Teflon based, gooey, sealant that I have used with good results. Maybe some here can out a name to it. Bill #dontkillgrandma On May 1, 2021, at 1:56 PM, Sujit Roy wrote: ? Instead of using lock-tite to seal a bolt hole, what are others using to stop oil seeping past the threads of a bolt? While sorting out my box of bolts for my planned gearbox rebuild for Stag no.3, many years off by the way. I came to realize that for Stag no.2 I used regular HU labeled bolts instead of these special ones. I now see from my spare gearbox shell that some of the bolt holes are not blind and go into the gearbox and hence oil can seep through past the bolts. (These bolts are used to hold the OD adapter on the end of the gearbox. ) some have suggested fiber,copper or dowty washers but is there a paste liquid I can apply on the threads. The TR6 gearbox case is similar to that of the Stag ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From elliottr at rmi.net Sat May 1 13:37:40 2021 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Sat, 1 May 2021 14:37:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <2E4119C0-0828-40E8-A4C0-F1780FDCC9B7@yahoo.com> References: <2E4119C0-0828-40E8-A4C0-F1780FDCC9B7@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <289a73a8-0e73-6498-1379-beecba8e4da5@rmi.net> Here is a selection of Permatex thread sealants. https://www.permatex.com/product-category/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/ Roger On 5/1/2021 1:59 PM, bill beecher wrote: > Permatex has a white Teflon based, gooey, sealant that I have used > with good results. ?Maybe some here can out a name to it. > Bill > > #dontkillgrandma > > On May 1, 2021, at 1:56 PM, Sujit Roy wrote: > > ? > Instead of using lock-tite to seal a bolt hole, what are others using > to stop oil seeping past the threads of a bolt? > > While sorting out my box of bolts for my planned gearbox rebuild for > Stag no.3, many years off by the way. I came to realize that for Stag > no.2 I used regular HU labeled bolts instead of these special ones. I > now see from my spare gearbox shell that some of the bolt holes are > not blind and go into the gearbox and hence oil can seep through past > the bolts. (These bolts are used to hold the OD adapter on the end of > the gearbox. ) some have suggested fiber,copper or dowty washers but > is there a paste liquid I can apply on the threads. The TR6 gearbox > case is similar to that of the Stag > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > ?http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hoytduff at gmail.com Sat May 1 15:36:10 2021 From: hoytduff at gmail.com (Hoyt Duff) Date: Sat, 1 May 2021 17:36:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 5/1/21, Sujit Roy wrote: > Instead of using lock-tite to seal a bolt hole, what are others using to > stop oil seeping past the threads of a bolt? Liquid Teflon with PFTE is used by GM at the factory to seal engine bolts that protrude into an oil gallery. No reason that won't work on LBCs. -- Hoyt From ptegler at verizon.net Sat May 1 21:42:44 2021 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Sat, 1 May 2021 23:42:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3022bd02-32d2-353c-0bf2-2c44f3e76735@verizon.net> Spits has a couple timing cover bolts that enter the engine block internals. Copper washers are supposed to be used, but also remember you're going through the cover metal, and a gasket as well. For any bolt I'm trying to seal for possible leakage through the threads I'm simply generous with either Blue Hylomar, and silver anti-sieze. niether leak. (coper anti-sieze it really high temps involved.) ptegler On 5/1/2021 5:36 PM, Hoyt Duff wrote: > On 5/1/21, Sujit Roy wrote: >> Instead of using lock-tite to seal a bolt hole, what are others using to >> stop oil seeping past the threads of a bolt? > Liquid Teflon with PFTE is used by GM at the factory to seal engine > bolts that protrude into an oil gallery. No reason that won't work on > LBCs. > -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com From thomasb at queensu.ca Sun May 2 10:11:11 2021 From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 16:11:11 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps Message-ID: Hi, I'm having great difficulty getting either of the drain taps in the TR2 to stop leaking. I've tried various used taps from my 45+ year "collection" without any success. The taps leak mostly out the drain hole but some also where screwed into the block/rad. I recently ordered a pair of new replacements from Rimmer with high hopes but after install, both leak from the side opposite the lever - see pic. This is with antifreeze in, rad cap off and no pressurization. I've asked Rimmer for comment, but they are closed until Tuesday (bank holiday Monday). [cid:image001.png at 01D73F4C.382FA570] The pic is shows the engine install with the spring portion "up" - that's what it tightened to. Has anyone had success with current offerings from the various vendors? I see Moss also offers them - others? TRF doesn't currently have them. I'm about to give up and try the Don Elliot solution sealing the taps where they thread into the block/rad. Appreciate any suggestions. Stay well and cheers, Brian _____________________________________________________ Brian Thomas E-Mail: Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca 92 Wyona Lane Phone: 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, Canada K0H 2Y0 01 XKR, 75 John Deere 920 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 885173 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: From cliff_hansen at outlook.com Sun May 2 10:41:58 2021 From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen) Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 16:41:58 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Brian, I replaced the tap with a standard ?-20 oil drain plug with nylon gasket. Its important that the plug have straight, not pipe, thread. No leaks. Easy to remove when I need to drain the block. Cliff Oil Drain Plug Standard 1/2-20, Head Size 7/8 In. NOE 7041918 | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts (napaonline.com) Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Brian Thomas Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 10:15 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: Brad Smith (britspcars at gmail.com) Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps Hi, I?m having great difficulty getting either of the drain taps in the TR2 to stop leaking. I?ve tried various used taps from my 45+ year ?collection? without any success. The taps leak mostly out the drain hole but some also where screwed into the block/rad. I recently ordered a pair of new replacements from Rimmer with high hopes but after install, both leak from the side opposite the lever ? see pic. This is with antifreeze in, rad cap off and no pressurization. I?ve asked Rimmer for comment, but they are closed until Tuesday (bank holiday Monday). [cid:image001.png at 01D73F4C.382FA570] The pic is shows the engine install with the spring portion ?up? ? that?s what it tightened to. Has anyone had success with current offerings from the various vendors? I see Moss also offers them ? others? TRF doesn?t currently have them. I?m about to give up and try the Don Elliot solution sealing the taps where they thread into the block/rad. Appreciate any suggestions. Stay well and cheers, Brian _____________________________________________________ Brian Thomas E-Mail: Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca 92 Wyona Lane Phone: 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, Canada K0H 2Y0 01 XKR, 75 John Deere 920 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 885173 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Sun May 2 11:01:47 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 12:01:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <39862F16-F71F-4AF3-8590-FC9EB2A83D60@yahoo.com> I disassembled the valve and using valve grinding compound then toothpaste I ?seated? the valve unit much as you would prepare your intake/exhaust valves. Bill B #dontkillgrandma On May 2, 2021, at 11:14 AM, Brian Thomas wrote: ? Hi, I?m having great difficulty getting either of the drain taps in the TR2 to stop leaking. I?ve tried various used taps from my 45+ year ?collection? without any success. The taps leak mostly out the drain hole but some also where screwed into the block/rad. I recently ordered a pair of new replacements from Rimmer with high hopes but after install, both leak from the side opposite the lever ? see pic. This is with antifreeze in, rad cap off and no pressurization. I?ve asked Rimmer for comment, but they are closed until Tuesday (bank holiday Monday). The pic is shows the engine install with the spring portion ?up? ? that?s what it tightened to. Has anyone had success with current offerings from the various vendors? I see Moss also offers them ? others? TRF doesn?t currently have them. I?m about to give up and try the Don Elliot solution sealing the taps where they thread into the block/rad. Appreciate any suggestions. Stay well and cheers, Brian _____________________________________________________ Brian Thomas E-Mail: Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca 92 Wyona Lane Phone: 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, Canada K0H 2Y0 01 XKR, 75 John Deere 920 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Sun May 2 11:40:04 2021 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 10:40:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002a01d73f7a$329cb610$97d62230$@net> Hi Brian, Moss's response to the leaking issue was "they all do that". It's been many years since I had this same issue. I solved it by taking the valve apart and polishing the parts. I don't remember how I polished them, maybe it was compound or 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Some PTFE on the threads that go into the block or radiator also helps. Anyway, no drips since. I had to do this on 2 radiators. The other alternative is to use a "modern" petcock. Hope this helps, Bob From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Thomas Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2021 9:11 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: Brad Smith (britspcars at gmail.com) Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps Hi, I'm having great difficulty getting either of the drain taps in the TR2 to stop leaking. I've tried various used taps from my 45+ year "collection" without any success. The taps leak mostly out the drain hole but some also where screwed into the block/rad. I recently ordered a pair of new replacements from Rimmer with high hopes but after install, both leak from the side opposite the lever - see pic. This is with antifreeze in, rad cap off and no pressurization. I've asked Rimmer for comment, but they are closed until Tuesday (bank holiday Monday). The pic is shows the engine install with the spring portion "up" - that's what it tightened to. Has anyone had success with current offerings from the various vendors? I see Moss also offers them - others? TRF doesn't currently have them. I'm about to give up and try the Don Elliot solution sealing the taps where they thread into the block/rad. Appreciate any suggestions. Stay well and cheers, Brian _____________________________________________________ Brian Thomas E-Mail: Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca 92 Wyona Lane Phone: 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, Canada K0H 2Y0 01 XKR, 75 John Deere 920 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 885173 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ghaynestr4 at aol.com Sun May 2 12:39:23 2021 From: ghaynestr4 at aol.com (George Haynes) Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 18:39:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Valve Stem Wear References: <1174253715.302459.1619980763825.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1174253715.302459.1619980763825@mail.yahoo.com> Had the rocker shaft off my TR4A recently and found several valve stem tips pitted and peened over.? Metal was displaced so a finger nail could feel it. ?Would you call it Galling? ?Head was done about 35K miles ago. I've never seen this before.?Stock Crane camshaft, valve springs and tubular pushrods. Valvoline VR-1 20W-50?oil. The rocker arm pads have been ground at what was supposed to be the correct radius. ?Don't know how to verify that. Has anyone experienced this? ?How does it happen? ?My inclination is to replace the all valves and rockers. Thanks?for any insight! George HaynesCTC55423LO -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From PeterAra at msn.com Sun May 2 14:11:46 2021 From: PeterAra at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 20:11:46 +0000 Subject: [TR] no subject - thread sealant Message-ID: Permatex 2b. Non-hardening, I have used in many times. Especially on oil drain plug. Peter Arakelian -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sun May 2 14:53:34 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 20:53:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <648504300.1715852.1619988814294@mail.yahoo.com> I had the same issue with a replacement I installed in the TR3.? I wound up soldering it closed.? It has become a plug that looks like a drain valve. I think (Haven't tried it yet) that if you take some valve lapping compound you can grind them into a tight fit.? Something the Pacific Rim Manufacturer didn't do.? (They were low bid, after all) Dave -----Original Message----- From: Brian Thomas To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: Brad Smith (britspcars at gmail.com) Sent: Sun, May 2, 2021 11:11 am Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps Hi, ? I?m having great difficulty getting either of the drain taps in the TR2 to stop leaking.? I?ve tried various used taps from my 45+ year ?collection? without any success.? The taps leak mostly out the drain hole but some also where screwed into the block/rad. ? I recently ordered a pair of new replacements from Rimmer with high hopes but after install, both leak from the side opposite the lever ? see pic.? This is with antifreeze in, rad cap off and no pressurization.? I?ve asked Rimmer for comment, but they are closed until Tuesday (bank holiday Monday). ? The pic is shows the engine install with the spring portion ?up? ? that?s what it tightened to. ? Has anyone had success with current offerings from the various vendors?? I see Moss also offers them ? others?? TRF doesn?t currently have them. ? I?m about to give up and try the Don Elliot solution sealing the taps where they thread into the block/rad. ? Appreciate any suggestions. ? Stay well and cheers, ? Brian _____________________________________________________ Brian Thomas???????????????????????????E-Mail:?Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca 92 Wyona Lane?????????????????????????Phone:? 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island,? Ontario???????????????Toys:? 54 TR2,? 56 TR3,? 67 TR4A,? Canada? K0H 2Y0?????????????????????????????????? 01 XKR,?75 John Deere 920 ? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 885173 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sackirby at chinaautogroup.com Sun May 2 15:15:33 2021 From: sackirby at chinaautogroup.com (Steve Kirby) Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 21:15:33 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps In-Reply-To: <002a01d73f7a$329cb610$97d62230$@net> References: <002a01d73f7a$329cb610$97d62230$@net> Message-ID: <3762a0f8907846af93f9fb4e6ef7cdfa@chinaautogroup.com> I can provide the definitive answer to this question because my company makes these aftermarket valves for Moss Motors (who probably resells them to everyone else in the world). The response "they all leak" is absolutely correct. In fact, the problem is so pervasive and resistant to all attempts to solve the problem in manufacturing, that Moss no longer sells a functional valve. What they sell has no internal drillings, it is just a plug. It is made to look like the original for authenticity purposes, but does not function (and hence does not leak). If you disassemble one of these, original or repro, you will see that there are no seals. The "sealing" is accomplished by a tapered metal stem fitted into a similarly tapered metal body. The two parts are "clamped" together by virtue of the external spring and depend totally on a very tight and concentric fit between the two metal parts. This valve was designed well before cars had pressurized cooling systems. And yes, they always leaked. But back in the day, before people started using distilled water and high quality antifreeze with effective anti-corrosion additives, the valves quickly plugged up with corrosion and, voila, stopped leaking. When they were opened and reclosed, they leaked again, until the corrosion re-plugged them. If you are dead set on trying to make one leakproof, get some valve lapping compound, disassemble the valve, and "lap" the two parts together for an hour or so, until the two surfaces are as smooth and concentric as possible. I have seen this work on occasion. Basically you are perfecting the seating of the stem in the body. If you just want to stop the valve from leaking and don't care about the function, you can remove the valve and plug or solder the inlet port. Jaguar used this same valve as a block mounted oil drain tap, with a bit more success due to the higher viscosity of oil vs. water. Several British motorcycle companies and Indian used this valve as a fuel shut off (and you can imagine how that worked!). Hope that solves the mystery. Steve Kirby President China Auto Group 22831 Avenida Empresa Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA Direct: (949) 261-8208 Fax: (949) 767-5949 Cell: (949) 903-0957 Skype: steve.kirby29 www.chinaautogroup.com From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Kinderlehrer Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 10:40 AM To: 'Brian Thomas' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps Hi Brian, Moss's response to the leaking issue was "they all do that". It's been many years since I had this same issue. I solved it by taking the valve apart and polishing the parts. I don't remember how I polished them, maybe it was compound or 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Some PTFE on the threads that go into the block or radiator also helps. Anyway, no drips since. I had to do this on 2 radiators. The other alternative is to use a "modern" petcock. Hope this helps, Bob From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Thomas Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2021 9:11 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: Brad Smith (britspcars at gmail.com) Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps Hi, I'm having great difficulty getting either of the drain taps in the TR2 to stop leaking. I've tried various used taps from my 45+ year "collection" without any success. The taps leak mostly out the drain hole but some also where screwed into the block/rad. I recently ordered a pair of new replacements from Rimmer with high hopes but after install, both leak from the side opposite the lever - see pic. This is with antifreeze in, rad cap off and no pressurization. I've asked Rimmer for comment, but they are closed until Tuesday (bank holiday Monday). [cid:image001.png at 01D73F5D.104DEDD0] The pic is shows the engine install with the spring portion "up" - that's what it tightened to. Has anyone had success with current offerings from the various vendors? I see Moss also offers them - others? TRF doesn't currently have them. I'm about to give up and try the Don Elliot solution sealing the taps where they thread into the block/rad. Appreciate any suggestions. Stay well and cheers, Brian _____________________________________________________ Brian Thomas E-Mail: Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca 92 Wyona Lane Phone: 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, Canada K0H 2Y0 01 XKR, 75 John Deere 920 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 885173 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: From cliff_hansen at outlook.com Sun May 2 15:19:54 2021 From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen) Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 21:19:54 +0000 Subject: [TR] Valve Stem Wear In-Reply-To: <1174253715.302459.1619980763825@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1174253715.302459.1619980763825.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <1174253715.302459.1619980763825@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I?d suspect the valves and not replace the rockers unless they show a wear pattern. The softer of the two metal surfaces would deform. Just my $0.20 ($0.02 after inflation) Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: George Haynes Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 12:43 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Valve Stem Wear Had the rocker shaft off my TR4A recently and found several valve stem tips pitted and peened over. Metal was displaced so a finger nail could feel it. Would you call it Galling? Head was done about 35K miles ago. I've never seen this before. Stock Crane camshaft, valve springs and tubular pushrods. Valvoline VR-1 20W-50 oil. The rocker arm pads have been ground at what was supposed to be the correct radius. Don't know how to verify that. Has anyone experienced this? How does it happen? My inclination is to replace the all valves and rockers. Thanks for any insight! George Haynes CTC55423LO -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From grglmn at gmail.com Sun May 2 16:11:57 2021 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 17:11:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps In-Reply-To: <3762a0f8907846af93f9fb4e6ef7cdfa@chinaautogroup.com> References: <002a01d73f7a$329cb610$97d62230$@net> <3762a0f8907846af93f9fb4e6ef7cdfa@chinaautogroup.com> Message-ID: Would it work to make a circular recess in the valve and put a quality or ring slightly proud to get a good seal. Would look the same from the outside I suppose if it crusted up over time the o-ring would no longer seal very well. I have lapped these valves and gotten them to seal pretty well. The standards have changed quite a bit since these cars were built with the radiator and fuel overflow "reservoirs" being the road or your garage. Greg Lemon TR250 On Sun, May 2, 2021, 4:16 PM Steve Kirby wrote: > I can provide the definitive answer to this question because my company > makes these aftermarket valves for Moss Motors (who probably resells them > to everyone else in the world). > > > > The response ?they all leak? is absolutely correct. In fact, the problem > is so pervasive and resistant to all attempts to solve the problem in > manufacturing, that Moss no longer sells a functional valve. What they > sell has no internal drillings, it is just a plug. It is made to look like > the original for authenticity purposes, but does not function (and hence > does not leak). > > > > If you disassemble one of these, original or repro, you will see that > there are no seals. The ?sealing? is accomplished by a tapered metal stem > fitted into a similarly tapered metal body. The two parts are ?clamped? > together by virtue of the external spring and depend totally on a very > tight and concentric fit between the two metal parts. This valve was > designed well before cars had pressurized cooling systems. And yes, they > always leaked. But back in the day, before people started using distilled > water and high quality antifreeze with effective anti-corrosion additives, > the valves quickly plugged up with corrosion and, voila, stopped leaking. > When they were opened and reclosed, they leaked again, until the corrosion > re-plugged them. > > > > If you are dead set on trying to make one leakproof, get some valve > lapping compound, disassemble the valve, and ?lap? the two parts together > for an hour or so, until the two surfaces are as smooth and concentric as > possible. I have seen this work on occasion. Basically you are perfecting > the seating of the stem in the body. > > > > If you just want to stop the valve from leaking and don?t care about the > function, you can remove the valve and plug or solder the inlet port. > > > > Jaguar used this same valve as a block mounted oil drain tap, with a bit > more success due to the higher viscosity of oil vs. water. Several British > motorcycle companies and Indian used this valve as a fuel shut off (and you > can imagine how that worked!). > > > > Hope that solves the mystery. > > > > *Steve Kirby* > > *President* > > *China Auto Group* > > 22831 Avenida Empresa > > Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA > > Direct: (949) 261-8208 > > Fax: (949) 767-5949 > > Cell: (949) 903-0957 > > Skype: steve.kirby29 > > www.chinaautogroup.com > > > > *From:* Triumphs *On Behalf Of * > Kinderlehrer > *Sent:* Sunday, May 2, 2021 10:40 AM > *To:* 'Brian Thomas' ; triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps > > > > Hi Brian, > > Moss?s response to the leaking issue was ?they all do that?. It?s been > many years since I had this same issue. I solved it by taking the valve > apart and polishing the parts. I don?t remember how I polished them, maybe > it was compound or 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Some PTFE on the threads > that go into the block or radiator also helps. Anyway, no drips since. I > had to do this on 2 radiators. > > > > The other alternative is to use a ?modern? petcock. > > > > Hope this helps, > > > > Bob > > > > > > *From:* Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of *Brian Thomas > *Sent:* Sunday, May 02, 2021 9:11 AM > *To:* triumphs at autox.team.net > *Cc:* Brad Smith (britspcars at gmail.com) > *Subject:* [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps > > > > Hi, > > > > I?m having great difficulty getting either of the drain taps in the TR2 to > stop leaking. I?ve tried various used taps from my 45+ year ?collection? > without any success. The taps leak mostly out the drain hole but some also > where screwed into the block/rad. > > > > I recently ordered a pair of new replacements from Rimmer with high hopes > but after install, both leak from the side opposite the lever ? see pic. > This is with antifreeze in, rad cap off and no pressurization. I?ve asked > Rimmer for comment, but they are closed until Tuesday (bank holiday Monday). > > > > > > The pic is shows the engine install with the spring portion ?up? ? that?s > what it tightened to. > > > > Has anyone had success with current offerings from the various vendors? I > see Moss also offers them ? others? TRF doesn?t currently have them. > > > > I?m about to give up and try the Don Elliot solution sealing the taps > where they thread into the block/rad. > > > > Appreciate any suggestions. > > > > Stay well and cheers, > > > > Brian > > _____________________________________________________ > > Brian Thomas E-Mail: Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca > > 92 Wyona Lane Phone: 613-385-1947 > > Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, > > Canada K0H 2Y0 01 XKR, 75 John Deere > 920 > > > > > > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 885173 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 885173 bytes Desc: not available URL: From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Sun May 2 16:26:37 2021 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 15:26:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps In-Reply-To: <3762a0f8907846af93f9fb4e6ef7cdfa@chinaautogroup.com> References: <002a01d73f7a$329cb610$97d62230$@net> <3762a0f8907846af93f9fb4e6ef7cdfa@chinaautogroup.com> Message-ID: <00a801d73fa2$3831ab30$a8950190$@net> Well Steve, it solves the mystery but not the problem. What I understand from your explanation is that you manufacture a product that is not going to perform its intended purpose. There is no indication on the Moss online catalogue that these petcocks will not function as petcocks - or that leaking is guaranteed. I've installed 3 of these, 2 radiators and one block, and in each case I took them apart and polished the cone and seat, none of them have leaked. If I can do it, I don't see why the manufacturer can't. Bob From: Steve Kirby [mailto:sackirby at chinaautogroup.com] Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2021 2:16 PM To: Kinderlehrer; 'Brian Thomas'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps I can provide the definitive answer to this question because my company makes these aftermarket valves for Moss Motors (who probably resells them to everyone else in the world). The response "they all leak" is absolutely correct. In fact, the problem is so pervasive and resistant to all attempts to solve the problem in manufacturing, that Moss no longer sells a functional valve. What they sell has no internal drillings, it is just a plug. It is made to look like the original for authenticity purposes, but does not function (and hence does not leak). If you disassemble one of these, original or repro, you will see that there are no seals. The "sealing" is accomplished by a tapered metal stem fitted into a similarly tapered metal body. The two parts are "clamped" together by virtue of the external spring and depend totally on a very tight and concentric fit between the two metal parts. This valve was designed well before cars had pressurized cooling systems. And yes, they always leaked. But back in the day, before people started using distilled water and high quality antifreeze with effective anti-corrosion additives, the valves quickly plugged up with corrosion and, voila, stopped leaking. When they were opened and reclosed, they leaked again, until the corrosion re-plugged them. If you are dead set on trying to make one leakproof, get some valve lapping compound, disassemble the valve, and "lap" the two parts together for an hour or so, until the two surfaces are as smooth and concentric as possible. I have seen this work on occasion. Basically you are perfecting the seating of the stem in the body. If you just want to stop the valve from leaking and don't care about the function, you can remove the valve and plug or solder the inlet port. Jaguar used this same valve as a block mounted oil drain tap, with a bit more success due to the higher viscosity of oil vs. water. Several British motorcycle companies and Indian used this valve as a fuel shut off (and you can imagine how that worked!). Hope that solves the mystery. Steve Kirby President China Auto Group 22831 Avenida Empresa Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA Direct: (949) 261-8208 Fax: (949) 767-5949 Cell: (949) 903-0957 Skype: steve.kirby29 www.chinaautogroup.com From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Kinderlehrer Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 10:40 AM To: 'Brian Thomas' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps Hi Brian, Moss's response to the leaking issue was "they all do that". It's been many years since I had this same issue. I solved it by taking the valve apart and polishing the parts. I don't remember how I polished them, maybe it was compound or 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Some PTFE on the threads that go into the block or radiator also helps. Anyway, no drips since. I had to do this on 2 radiators. The other alternative is to use a "modern" petcock. Hope this helps, Bob From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Thomas Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2021 9:11 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: Brad Smith (britspcars at gmail.com) Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps Hi, I'm having great difficulty getting either of the drain taps in the TR2 to stop leaking. I've tried various used taps from my 45+ year "collection" without any success. The taps leak mostly out the drain hole but some also where screwed into the block/rad. I recently ordered a pair of new replacements from Rimmer with high hopes but after install, both leak from the side opposite the lever - see pic. This is with antifreeze in, rad cap off and no pressurization. I've asked Rimmer for comment, but they are closed until Tuesday (bank holiday Monday). The pic is shows the engine install with the spring portion "up" - that's what it tightened to. Has anyone had success with current offerings from the various vendors? I see Moss also offers them - others? TRF doesn't currently have them. I'm about to give up and try the Don Elliot solution sealing the taps where they thread into the block/rad. Appreciate any suggestions. Stay well and cheers, Brian _____________________________________________________ Brian Thomas E-Mail: Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca 92 Wyona Lane Phone: 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, Canada K0H 2Y0 01 XKR, 75 John Deere 920 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 885173 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Sun May 2 16:33:36 2021 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 18:33:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps In-Reply-To: <3762a0f8907846af93f9fb4e6ef7cdfa@chinaautogroup.com> References: <002a01d73f7a$329cb610$97d62230$@net> <3762a0f8907846af93f9fb4e6ef7cdfa@chinaautogroup.com> Message-ID: <39404bb7-16bd-3d14-bddb-1d0860945152@verizon.net> oh come on.... there are many 'no seal' metal on metal, even glass on glass that do not leak! Many of todays modern rotary lever sink faucets have no o-rings any more. They are simply flat ceramic wafers when you align the holes water flows. An that is a much higher pressure than any rad. ptegler On 5/2/2021 5:15 PM, Steve Kirby wrote: > > I can provide the definitive answer to this question because my > company makes these aftermarket valves for Moss Motors (who probably > resells them to everyone else in the world). > > The response ???they all leak??? is absolutely correct.??? In fact, the > problem is so pervasive and resistant to all attempts to solve the > problem in manufacturing, that Moss no longer sells a functional > valve.??? What they sell has no internal drillings, it is just a plug.??? > It is made to look like the original for authenticity purposes, but > does not function (and hence does not leak). > > If you disassemble one of these, original or repro, you will see that > there are no seals.??? The ???sealing??? is accomplished by a tapered metal > stem fitted into a similarly tapered metal body.??? The two parts are > ???clamped??? together by virtue of the external spring and depend totally > on a very tight and concentric fit between the two metal parts.??? This > valve was designed well before cars had pressurized cooling systems.??? > And yes, they always leaked. But back in the day, before people > started using distilled water and high quality antifreeze with > effective anti-corrosion additives, the valves quickly plugged up with > corrosion and, voila, stopped leaking.??? When they were opened and > reclosed, they leaked again, until the corrosion re-plugged them. > > If you are dead set on trying to make one leakproof, get some valve > lapping compound, disassemble the valve, and ???lap??? the two parts > together for an hour or so, until the two surfaces are as smooth and > concentric as possible.??? I have seen this work on occasion.??? Basically > you are perfecting the seating of the stem in the body. > > If you just want to stop the valve from leaking and don???t care about > the function, you can remove the valve and plug or solder the inlet port. > > Jaguar used this same valve as a block mounted oil drain tap, with a > bit more success due to the higher viscosity of oil vs. water.??? > Several British motorcycle companies and Indian used this valve as a > fuel shut off (and you can imagine how that worked!). > > Hope that solves the mystery. > > */Steve Kirby/* > > *President* > > *China Auto Group* > > 22831 Avenida Empresa > > Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA > > Direct:??? (949) 261-8208 > > Fax:??? (949) 767-5949 > > Cell:??? (949) 903-0957 > > Skype: steve.kirby29 > > www.chinaautogroup.com > > *From:* Triumphs *On Behalf Of > *Kinderlehrer > *Sent:* Sunday, May 2, 2021 10:40 AM > *To:* 'Brian Thomas' ; triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps > > Hi Brian, > > Moss???s response to the leaking issue was ???they all do that???. It???s been > many years since I had this same issue. I solved it by taking the > valve apart and polishing the parts. I don???t remember how I polished > them, maybe it was compound or 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. ???Some PTFE > on the threads that go into the block or radiator also helps. Anyway, > no drips since. ???I had to do this on 2 radiators. > > The other alternative is to use a ???modern??? petcock. > > Hope this helps, > > Bob > > *From:*Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of *Brian Thomas > *Sent:* Sunday, May 02, 2021 9:11 AM > *To:* triumphs at autox.team.net > *Cc:* Brad Smith (britspcars at gmail.com ) > *Subject:* [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps > > Hi, > > I???m having great difficulty getting either of the drain taps in the > TR2 to stop leaking.??? I???ve tried various used taps from my 45+ year > ???collection??? without any success.??? The taps leak mostly out the drain > hole but some also where screwed into the block/rad. > > I recently ordered a pair of new replacements from Rimmer with high > hopes but after install, both leak from the side opposite the lever ??? > see pic.??? This is with antifreeze in, rad cap off and no > pressurization. I???ve asked Rimmer for comment, but they are closed > until Tuesday (bank holiday Monday). > > The pic is shows the engine install with the spring portion ???up??? ??? > that???s what it tightened to. > > Has anyone had success with current offerings from the various > vendors???? I see Moss also offers them ??? others???? TRF doesn???t currently > have them. > > I???m about to give up and try the Don Elliot solution sealing the taps > where they thread into the block/rad. > > Appreciate any suggestions. > > Stay well and cheers, > > Brian > > _____________________________________________________ > > Brian Thomas E-Mail: Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca > > > 92 Wyona Lane Phone:??? 613-385-1947 > > Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys:??? 54 TR2,??? 56 TR3,??? 67 TR4A, > > Canada??? K0H 2Y0?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? 01 XKR, 75 John > Deere 920 > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 885173 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sun May 2 16:34:38 2021 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 18:34:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I rebuilt mine for the TR2. used fine valve lapping compound on the taper and cut a rubber washer from red/orange rubber I had around the shop. I greased up the rubber and no leaks. Hardest thing was finding a spring. Never had leaks at the threads. I have done the belt and suspenders thing, teflon tape plus teflon pipe dope on ornery fittings with good sucess. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 885173 bytes Desc: not available URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Sun May 2 16:36:50 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (Notakitcar) Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 17:36:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps In-Reply-To: <00a801d73fa2$3831ab30$a8950190$@net> References: <002a01d73f7a$329cb610$97d62230$@net> <3762a0f8907846af93f9fb4e6ef7cdfa@chinaautogroup.com> <00a801d73fa2$3831ab30$a8950190$@net> Message-ID: <000a01d73fa3$a5b10560$f1131020$@yahoo.com> Bob K. Ditto! It can't cost much more, if any, to do the job right. Bill TS30800L From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kinderlehrer Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 5:27 PM To: 'Steve Kirby' ; 'Brian Thomas' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps Well Steve, it solves the mystery but not the problem. What I understand from your explanation is that you manufacture a product that is not going to perform its intended purpose. There is no indication on the Moss online catalogue that these petcocks will not function as petcocks - or that leaking is guaranteed. I've installed 3 of these, 2 radiators and one block, and in each case I took them apart and polished the cone and seat, none of them have leaked. If I can do it, I don't see why the manufacturer can't. Bob From: Steve Kirby [mailto:sackirby at chinaautogroup.com] Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2021 2:16 PM To: Kinderlehrer; 'Brian Thomas'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps I can provide the definitive answer to this question because my company makes these aftermarket valves for Moss Motors (who probably resells them to everyone else in the world). The response "they all leak" is absolutely correct. In fact, the problem is so pervasive and resistant to all attempts to solve the problem in manufacturing, that Moss no longer sells a functional valve. What they sell has no internal drillings, it is just a plug. It is made to look like the original for authenticity purposes, but does not function (and hence does not leak). If you disassemble one of these, original or repro, you will see that there are no seals. The "sealing" is accomplished by a tapered metal stem fitted into a similarly tapered metal body. The two parts are "clamped" together by virtue of the external spring and depend totally on a very tight and concentric fit between the two metal parts. This valve was designed well before cars had pressurized cooling systems. And yes, they always leaked. But back in the day, before people started using distilled water and high quality antifreeze with effective anti-corrosion additives, the valves quickly plugged up with corrosion and, voila, stopped leaking. When they were opened and reclosed, they leaked again, until the corrosion re-plugged them. If you are dead set on trying to make one leakproof, get some valve lapping compound, disassemble the valve, and "lap" the two parts together for an hour or so, until the two surfaces are as smooth and concentric as possible. I have seen this work on occasion. Basically you are perfecting the seating of the stem in the body. If you just want to stop the valve from leaking and don't care about the function, you can remove the valve and plug or solder the inlet port. Jaguar used this same valve as a block mounted oil drain tap, with a bit more success due to the higher viscosity of oil vs. water. Several British motorcycle companies and Indian used this valve as a fuel shut off (and you can imagine how that worked!). Hope that solves the mystery. Steve Kirby President China Auto Group 22831 Avenida Empresa Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA Direct: (949) 261-8208 Fax: (949) 767-5949 Cell: (949) 903-0957 Skype: steve.kirby29 www.chinaautogroup.com From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Kinderlehrer Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 10:40 AM To: 'Brian Thomas' >; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps Hi Brian, Moss's response to the leaking issue was "they all do that". It's been many years since I had this same issue. I solved it by taking the valve apart and polishing the parts. I don't remember how I polished them, maybe it was compound or 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Some PTFE on the threads that go into the block or radiator also helps. Anyway, no drips since. I had to do this on 2 radiators. The other alternative is to use a "modern" petcock. Hope this helps, Bob From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Thomas Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2021 9:11 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: Brad Smith (britspcars at gmail.com ) Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps Hi, I'm having great difficulty getting either of the drain taps in the TR2 to stop leaking. I've tried various used taps from my 45+ year "collection" without any success. The taps leak mostly out the drain hole but some also where screwed into the block/rad. I recently ordered a pair of new replacements from Rimmer with high hopes but after install, both leak from the side opposite the lever - see pic. This is with antifreeze in, rad cap off and no pressurization. I've asked Rimmer for comment, but they are closed until Tuesday (bank holiday Monday). The pic is shows the engine install with the spring portion "up" - that's what it tightened to. Has anyone had success with current offerings from the various vendors? I see Moss also offers them - others? TRF doesn't currently have them. I'm about to give up and try the Don Elliot solution sealing the taps where they thread into the block/rad. Appreciate any suggestions. Stay well and cheers, Brian _____________________________________________________ Brian Thomas E-Mail: Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca 92 Wyona Lane Phone: 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, Canada K0H 2Y0 01 XKR, 75 John Deere 920 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 885173 bytes Desc: not available URL: From Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu Sun May 2 16:45:02 2021 From: Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu (Reihing, Randall S.) Date: Sun, 2 May 2021 22:45:02 +0000 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps In-Reply-To: <00a801d73fa2$3831ab30$a8950190$@net> References: <002a01d73f7a$329cb610$97d62230$@net> <3762a0f8907846af93f9fb4e6ef7cdfa@chinaautogroup.com>, <00a801d73fa2$3831ab30$a8950190$@net> Message-ID: Hello All, For what it's worth, I am a pilot and my recreational aircraft is a restored 1948 Taylorcraft with the Continental C85 engine. The wing tank fuel shut off is an original solid brass valve with a leather washer on the stem that helps stop fuel seepage out of the stem, but it is not perfect. That valve used to seep a drop here and there. My av gas is either red or blue depending on the octane. One day during my biannual check ride it seeped several drops onto the brand-new cream colored chino pants my CFI was wearing. He was not pleased. But at least avgas evaporates along with it's dye and it did not leave a permanent stain. But to prevent a recurrence the IA who does my annual inspection disassembled the valve, replaced the leather washer on the valve stem and lapped the valve stem and the valve body together, by hand, with Clover 400 and 800 grit valve lapping compound available at most machine shop supply houses and perhaps AutoZone, reassembled the valve and it no longer seeps even a single drop of avgas. The whole operation took about one hour. The valve has not leaked, or even seeped a single drop since and that was last summer. Maybe that will work for some of these leaking or seeping fuel valves. There is a difference between a leak and a seep. Best of luck to all of you that have this dilemma. I have found that the solid brass valves are superior to steel valves. Randall Reihing 1959 TR3A 1948 Taylorcraft BC12D85 ________________________________ From: Triumphs on behalf of Kinderlehrer Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 6:26 PM To: 'Steve Kirby' ; 'Brian Thomas' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps Well Steve, it solves the mystery but not the problem. What I understand from your explanation is that you manufacture a product that is not going to perform its intended purpose. There is no indication on the Moss online catalogue that these petcocks will not function as petcocks ? or that leaking is guaranteed. I?ve installed 3 of these, 2 radiators and one block, and in each case I took them apart and polished the cone and seat, none of them have leaked. If I can do it, I don?t see why the manufacturer can?t. Bob From: Steve Kirby [mailto:sackirby at chinaautogroup.com] Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2021 2:16 PM To: Kinderlehrer; 'Brian Thomas'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps I can provide the definitive answer to this question because my company makes these aftermarket valves for Moss Motors (who probably resells them to everyone else in the world). The response ?they all leak? is absolutely correct. In fact, the problem is so pervasive and resistant to all attempts to solve the problem in manufacturing, that Moss no longer sells a functional valve. What they sell has no internal drillings, it is just a plug. It is made to look like the original for authenticity purposes, but does not function (and hence does not leak). If you disassemble one of these, original or repro, you will see that there are no seals. The ?sealing? is accomplished by a tapered metal stem fitted into a similarly tapered metal body. The two parts are ?clamped? together by virtue of the external spring and depend totally on a very tight and concentric fit between the two metal parts. This valve was designed well before cars had pressurized cooling systems. And yes, they always leaked. But back in the day, before people started using distilled water and high quality antifreeze with effective anti-corrosion additives, the valves quickly plugged up with corrosion and, voila, stopped leaking. When they were opened and reclosed, they leaked again, until the corrosion re-plugged them. If you are dead set on trying to make one leakproof, get some valve lapping compound, disassemble the valve, and ?lap? the two parts together for an hour or so, until the two surfaces are as smooth and concentric as possible. I have seen this work on occasion. Basically you are perfecting the seating of the stem in the body. If you just want to stop the valve from leaking and don?t care about the function, you can remove the valve and plug or solder the inlet port. Jaguar used this same valve as a block mounted oil drain tap, with a bit more success due to the higher viscosity of oil vs. water. Several British motorcycle companies and Indian used this valve as a fuel shut off (and you can imagine how that worked!). Hope that solves the mystery. Steve Kirby President China Auto Group 22831 Avenida Empresa Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA Direct: (949) 261-8208 Fax: (949) 767-5949 Cell: (949) 903-0957 Skype: steve.kirby29 www.chinaautogroup.com From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Kinderlehrer Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 10:40 AM To: 'Brian Thomas' >; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps Hi Brian, Moss?s response to the leaking issue was ?they all do that?. It?s been many years since I had this same issue. I solved it by taking the valve apart and polishing the parts. I don?t remember how I polished them, maybe it was compound or 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Some PTFE on the threads that go into the block or radiator also helps. Anyway, no drips since. I had to do this on 2 radiators. The other alternative is to use a ?modern? petcock. Hope this helps, Bob From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Thomas Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2021 9:11 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: Brad Smith (britspcars at gmail.com) Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps Hi, I?m having great difficulty getting either of the drain taps in the TR2 to stop leaking. I?ve tried various used taps from my 45+ year ?collection? without any success. The taps leak mostly out the drain hole but some also where screwed into the block/rad. I recently ordered a pair of new replacements from Rimmer with high hopes but after install, both leak from the side opposite the lever ? see pic. This is with antifreeze in, rad cap off and no pressurization. I?ve asked Rimmer for comment, but they are closed until Tuesday (bank holiday Monday). [cid:image001.png at 01D73F67.8B085740] The pic is shows the engine install with the spring portion ?up? ? that?s what it tightened to. Has anyone had success with current offerings from the various vendors? I see Moss also offers them ? others? TRF doesn?t currently have them. I?m about to give up and try the Don Elliot solution sealing the taps where they thread into the block/rad. Appreciate any suggestions. Stay well and cheers, Brian _____________________________________________________ Brian Thomas E-Mail: Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca 92 Wyona Lane Phone: 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, Canada K0H 2Y0 01 XKR, 75 John Deere 920 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 885173 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: From stan at redtr6.com Sun May 2 20:50:33 2021 From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster) Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 02:50:33 +0000 Subject: [TR] FW: TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The new engine drain tap leaked when I rebuilt my TR3 engine. I took the tap apart and lapped the tapers together with toothpaste until all surfaces looked even. It did not take long. No leaks in 6 years and the engine still has that minty fresh smell. Stan From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Brian Thomas Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 12:11 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: Brad Smith (britspcars at gmail.com) Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps Hi, I'm having great difficulty getting either of the drain taps in the TR2 to stop leaking. I've tried various used taps from my 45+ year "collection" without any success. The taps leak mostly out the drain hole but some also where screwed into the block/rad. I recently ordered a pair of new replacements from Rimmer with high hopes but after install, both leak from the side opposite the lever - see pic. This is with antifreeze in, rad cap off and no pressurization. I've asked Rimmer for comment, but they are closed until Tuesday (bank holiday Monday). [cid:image001.png at 01D73F4C.382FA570] The pic is shows the engine install with the spring portion "up" - that's what it tightened to. Has anyone had success with current offerings from the various vendors? I see Moss also offers them - others? TRF doesn't currently have them. I'm about to give up and try the Don Elliot solution sealing the taps where they thread into the block/rad. Appreciate any suggestions. Stay well and cheers, Brian _____________________________________________________ Brian Thomas E-Mail: Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca 92 Wyona Lane Phone: 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, Canada K0H 2Y0 01 XKR, 75 John Deere 920 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 885173 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: ATT00001.txt URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Mon May 3 05:03:28 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 11:03:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps In-Reply-To: <3762a0f8907846af93f9fb4e6ef7cdfa@chinaautogroup.com> References: <002a01d73f7a$329cb610$97d62230$@net> <3762a0f8907846af93f9fb4e6ef7cdfa@chinaautogroup.com> Message-ID: <309023718.1805468.1620039809004@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks for the clarification.? It's good to get the story from the source.? It might also be worth mentioning that "back in the day'" a few leaks were "expected" and garnered no complaints.? These days cars are so tight that any spots on the garage floor elicit great anxiety. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Steve Kirby To: Kinderlehrer ; 'Brian Thomas' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, May 2, 2021 4:15 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps #yiv0783023809 #yiv0783023809 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv0783023809 #yiv0783023809 p.yiv0783023809MsoNormal, #yiv0783023809 li.yiv0783023809MsoNormal, #yiv0783023809 div.yiv0783023809MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv0783023809 a:link, #yiv0783023809 span.yiv0783023809MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0783023809 span.yiv0783023809EmailStyle22 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv0783023809 .yiv0783023809MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv0783023809 div.yiv0783023809WordSection1 {}#yiv0783023809 I can provide the definitive answer to this question because my company makes these aftermarket valves for Moss Motors (who probably resells them to everyone else in the world). ? The response ?they all leak? is absolutely correct.? In fact, the problem is so pervasive and resistant to all attempts to solve the problem in manufacturing, that Moss no longer sells a functional valve.? What they sell has no internal drillings, it is just a plug.? It is made to look like the original for authenticity purposes, but does not function (and hence does not leak). ? If you disassemble one of these, original or repro, you will see that there are no seals.? The ?sealing? is accomplished by a tapered metal stem fitted into a similarly tapered metal body.? The two parts are ?clamped? together by virtue of the external spring and depend totally on a very tight and concentric fit between the two metal parts.? This valve was designed well before cars had pressurized cooling systems.? And yes, they always leaked.? But back in the day, before people started using distilled water and high quality antifreeze with effective anti-corrosion additives, the valves quickly plugged up with corrosion and, voila, stopped leaking.? When they were opened and reclosed, they leaked again, until the corrosion re-plugged them. ? If you are dead set on trying to make one leakproof, get some valve lapping compound, disassemble the valve, and ?lap? the two parts together for an hour or so, until the two surfaces are as smooth and concentric as possible.? I have seen this work on occasion.? Basically you are perfecting the seating of the stem in the body. ? If you just want to stop the valve from leaking and don?t care about the function, you can remove the valve and plug or solder the inlet port. ? Jaguar used this same valve as a block mounted oil drain tap, with a bit more success due to the higher viscosity of oil vs. water.? Several British motorcycle companies and Indian used this valve as a fuel shut off (and you can imagine how that worked!). ? Hope that solves the mystery. ? Steve Kirby President China Auto Group 22831 Avenida Empresa Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA Direct:? (949) 261-8208 Fax:? (949) 767-5949 Cell:? (949) 903-0957 Skype: steve.kirby29 www.chinaautogroup.com ? From: Triumphs On Behalf OfKinderlehrer Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 10:40 AM To: 'Brian Thomas' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps ? Hi Brian, Moss?s response to the leaking issue was ?they all do that?. It?s been many years since I had this same issue. I solved it by taking the valve apart and polishing the parts. I don?t remember how I polished them, maybe it was compound or 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. ?Some PTFE on the threads that go into the block or radiator also helps. Anyway, no drips since. ?I had to do this on 2 radiators. ? The other alternative is to use a ?modern? petcock. ? Hope this helps, ? Bob ? ? From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Brian Thomas Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2021 9:11 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: Brad Smith (britspcars at gmail.com) Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps ? Hi, ? I?m having great difficulty getting either of the drain taps in the TR2 to stop leaking.? I?ve tried various used taps from my 45+ year ?collection? without any success.? The taps leak mostly out the drain hole but some also where screwed into the block/rad. ? I recently ordered a pair of new replacements from Rimmer with high hopes but after install, both leak from the side opposite the lever ? see pic.? This is with antifreeze in, rad cap off and no pressurization.? I?ve asked Rimmer for comment, but they are closed until Tuesday (bank holiday Monday). ? ? The pic is shows the engine install with the spring portion ?up? ? that?s what it tightened to. ? Has anyone had success with current offerings from the various vendors?? I see Moss also offers them ? others?? TRF doesn?t currently have them. ? I?m about to give up and try the Don Elliot solution sealing the taps where they thread into the block/rad. ? Appreciate any suggestions. ? Stay well and cheers, ? Brian _____________________________________________________ Brian Thomas???????????????????????????E-Mail:?Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca 92 Wyona Lane?????????????????????????Phone:? 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island,? Ontario???????????????Toys:? 54 TR2,? 56 TR3,? 67 TR4A,? Canada? K0H 2Y0?????????????????????????????????? 01 XKR,?75 John Deere 920 ? ? ? ???** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 885173 bytes Desc: not available URL: From Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu Mon May 3 12:20:32 2021 From: Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu (Reihing, Randall S.) Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 18:20:32 +0000 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] FW: TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Stan has the solution but in place of toothpaste the Clover Lapping Compound might be faster. Try 800 grit and finer. Randall Reihing 1959 TR3A ________________________________ From: Triumphs on behalf of Stan Foster Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 10:50 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [EXTERNAL] [TR] FW: TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps The new engine drain tap leaked when I rebuilt my TR3 engine. I took the tap apart and lapped the tapers together with toothpaste until all surfaces looked even. It did not take long. No leaks in 6 years and the engine still has that minty fresh smell. Stan From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Brian Thomas Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 12:11 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: Brad Smith (britspcars at gmail.com) Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps Hi, I?m having great difficulty getting either of the drain taps in the TR2 to stop leaking. I?ve tried various used taps from my 45+ year ?collection? without any success. The taps leak mostly out the drain hole but some also where screwed into the block/rad. I recently ordered a pair of new replacements from Rimmer with high hopes but after install, both leak from the side opposite the lever ? see pic. This is with antifreeze in, rad cap off and no pressurization. I?ve asked Rimmer for comment, but they are closed until Tuesday (bank holiday Monday). [cid:image001.png at 01D73F4C.382FA570] The pic is shows the engine install with the spring portion ?up? ? that?s what it tightened to. Has anyone had success with current offerings from the various vendors? I see Moss also offers them ? others? TRF doesn?t currently have them. I?m about to give up and try the Don Elliot solution sealing the taps where they thread into the block/rad. Appreciate any suggestions. Stay well and cheers, Brian _____________________________________________________ Brian Thomas E-Mail: Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca 92 Wyona Lane Phone: 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, Canada K0H 2Y0 01 XKR, 75 John Deere 920 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 885173 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Mon May 3 13:11:38 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (Notakitcar) Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 14:11:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] FW: TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: <000c01d74050$24f55c20$6ee01460$@yahoo.com> I start with valve grind compound and finish with toothpaste. B From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Reihing, Randall S. Sent: Monday, May 3, 2021 1:21 PM To: Stan Foster ; Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] FW: TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps Stan has the solution but in place of toothpaste the Clover Lapping Compound might be faster. Try 800 grit and finer. Randall Reihing 1959 TR3A _____ From: Triumphs > on behalf of Stan Foster > Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 10:50 PM To: Triumphs > Subject: [EXTERNAL] [TR] FW: TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps The new engine drain tap leaked when I rebuilt my TR3 engine. I took the tap apart and lapped the tapers together with toothpaste until all surfaces looked even. It did not take long. No leaks in 6 years and the engine still has that minty fresh smell. Stan From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Brian Thomas Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 12:11 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: Brad Smith (britspcars at gmail.com ) > Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps Hi, I'm having great difficulty getting either of the drain taps in the TR2 to stop leaking. I've tried various used taps from my 45+ year "collection" without any success. The taps leak mostly out the drain hole but some also where screwed into the block/rad. I recently ordered a pair of new replacements from Rimmer with high hopes but after install, both leak from the side opposite the lever - see pic. This is with antifreeze in, rad cap off and no pressurization. I've asked Rimmer for comment, but they are closed until Tuesday (bank holiday Monday). The pic is shows the engine install with the spring portion "up" - that's what it tightened to. Has anyone had success with current offerings from the various vendors? I see Moss also offers them - others? TRF doesn't currently have them. I'm about to give up and try the Don Elliot solution sealing the taps where they thread into the block/rad. Appreciate any suggestions. Stay well and cheers, Brian _____________________________________________________ Brian Thomas E-Mail: Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca 92 Wyona Lane Phone: 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, Canada K0H 2Y0 01 XKR, 75 John Deere 920 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 885173 bytes Desc: not available URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Mon May 3 15:26:20 2021 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Mon, 3 May 2021 17:26:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] FW: TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: How can one tell when the two parts are correctly and sufficiently lapped? Do we need to reassemble the parts, re-mount it to the block each time? On Mon, May 3, 2021 at 2:22 PM Reihing, Randall S. < Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu> wrote: > Stan has the solution but in place of toothpaste the Clover Lapping > Compound might be faster. Try 800 grit and finer. > > Randall Reihing > 1959 TR3A > ------------------------------ > *From:* Triumphs on behalf of Stan > Foster > *Sent:* Sunday, May 2, 2021 10:50 PM > *To:* Triumphs > *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] [TR] FW: TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps > > > The new engine drain tap leaked when I rebuilt my TR3 engine. I took the > tap apart and lapped the tapers together with toothpaste until all surfaces > looked even. It did not take long. No leaks in 6 years and the engine still > has that minty fresh smell. > > > > Stan > > > > *From:* Triumphs * On Behalf Of *Brian > Thomas > *Sent:* Sunday, May 2, 2021 12:11 PM > *To:* triumphs at autox.team.net > *Cc:* Brad Smith (britspcars at gmail.com) > *Subject:* [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps > > > > Hi, > > > > I?m having great difficulty getting either of the drain taps in the TR2 to > stop leaking. I?ve tried various used taps from my 45+ year ?collection? > without any success. The taps leak mostly out the drain hole but some also > where screwed into the block/rad. > > > > I recently ordered a pair of new replacements from Rimmer with high hopes > but after install, both leak from the side opposite the lever ? see pic. > This is with antifreeze in, rad cap off and no pressurization. I?ve asked > Rimmer for comment, but they are closed until Tuesday (bank holiday Monday). > > > > > > The pic is shows the engine install with the spring portion ?up? ? that?s > what it tightened to. > > > > Has anyone had success with current offerings from the various vendors? I > see Moss also offers them ? others? TRF doesn?t currently have them. > > > > I?m about to give up and try the Don Elliot solution sealing the taps > where they thread into the block/rad. > > > > Appreciate any suggestions. > > > > Stay well and cheers, > > > > Brian > > _____________________________________________________ > > Brian Thomas E-Mail: Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca > > 92 Wyona Lane > > Phone: 613-385-1947 > > Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, > > Canada K0H 2Y0 01 XKR, 75 John Deere > 920 > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 885173 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mmarr at albiontechnical.com Tue May 4 11:07:41 2021 From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr) Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 17:07:41 +0000 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] FW: TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: First, I have never lapped one of these valves but I have scraped a lot of Babbitt bearings and flat steel surfaces in my time and if I were lapping this valve, this is the technique I would use. I would use Engineer?s Blue on the lapped surface of the plug. Place the plug in the body and then turn it a full turn. Remove the plug and look at where the blue has rubbed off the surface of the plug, and where it remains. In the areas that it remains, the plug is not in good contact with the valve body. Continue lapping until the blue is removed evenly across the entire surface of the plug. As I said, I have never done this exact thing, but I believe this will work. YMMV Mike Sent from my iPhone On May 3, 2021, at 16:28, David Friedlander wrote: ? How can one tell when the two parts are correctly and sufficiently lapped? Do we need to reassemble the parts, re-mount it to the block each time? On Mon, May 3, 2021 at 2:22 PM Reihing, Randall S. > wrote: Stan has the solution but in place of toothpaste the Clover Lapping Compound might be faster. Try 800 grit and finer. Randall Reihing 1959 TR3A ________________________________ From: Triumphs > on behalf of Stan Foster > Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 10:50 PM To: Triumphs > Subject: [EXTERNAL] [TR] FW: TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps The new engine drain tap leaked when I rebuilt my TR3 engine. I took the tap apart and lapped the tapers together with toothpaste until all surfaces looked even. It did not take long. No leaks in 6 years and the engine still has that minty fresh smell. Stan From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Brian Thomas Sent: Sunday, May 2, 2021 12:11 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: Brad Smith (britspcars at gmail.com) > Subject: [TR] TR2-3-4 Engine and Rad Taps Hi, I?m having great difficulty getting either of the drain taps in the TR2 to stop leaking. I?ve tried various used taps from my 45+ year ?collection? without any success. The taps leak mostly out the drain hole but some also where screwed into the block/rad. I recently ordered a pair of new replacements from Rimmer with high hopes but after install, both leak from the side opposite the lever ? see pic. This is with antifreeze in, rad cap off and no pressurization. I?ve asked Rimmer for comment, but they are closed until Tuesday (bank holiday Monday). The pic is shows the engine install with the spring portion ?up? ? that?s what it tightened to. Has anyone had success with current offerings from the various vendors? I see Moss also offers them ? others? TRF doesn?t currently have them. I?m about to give up and try the Don Elliot solution sealing the taps where they thread into the block/rad. Appreciate any suggestions. Stay well and cheers, Brian _____________________________________________________ Brian Thomas E-Mail: Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca 92 Wyona Lane Phone: 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, Canada K0H 2Y0 01 XKR, 75 John Deere 920 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=JDNn2zj7jhxUi1MKIVb4w35MqNI5K4-rNC7jp0Qniwg&s=Tty6Yvfx4x3aZy6ddtat_qctVyGss4qZY00Fc6rnvAk&e= Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=JDNn2zj7jhxUi1MKIVb4w35MqNI5K4-rNC7jp0Qniwg&s=oAxpeCDHsW9iNJCB4aaYxHQMZTcddcJoR2LubJAMJ28&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=JDNn2zj7jhxUi1MKIVb4w35MqNI5K4-rNC7jp0Qniwg&s=H2Wqd2Ngxfp1MS0qfv-uT4jj_n6tifPmmz40NVMnXsg&e= Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=JDNn2zj7jhxUi1MKIVb4w35MqNI5K4-rNC7jp0Qniwg&s=gYH1WL1a-XxhssXVkl-4cYsbtJLYL9gdd3Xi2R5FBQo&e= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 885173 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Tue May 4 12:14:45 2021 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen) Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 14:14:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 4a gas cap Message-ID: <24CD01D6-900E-4B9F-993A-4110DD051B2B@gmail.com> Does anyone know of a replacement for the rubber gasket in the petrol filler cap? No reference in factory parts manual and didn?t see anything on TRF or Moss site. This is the gasket that seals the top part of the cap assembly when closed. Pic from my 67 4a. Hard as a rock. Surprised no replacement easily found Jim Henningsen Ocala FL -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 122516 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- From notakitcar at yahoo.com Tue May 4 12:26:50 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 13:26:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 4a gas cap In-Reply-To: <24CD01D6-900E-4B9F-993A-4110DD051B2B@gmail.com> References: <24CD01D6-900E-4B9F-993A-4110DD051B2B@gmail.com> Message-ID: <3C96DFD3-CA91-44DC-AD65-8BA6A77FEC4E@yahoo.com> I recently made one from an old innertube. Works a treat. Bill B #dontkillgrandma On May 4, 2021, at 1:21 PM, James Henningsen wrote: ?Does anyone know of a replacement for the rubber gasket in the petrol filler cap? No reference in factory parts manual and didn?t see anything on TRF or Moss site. This is the gasket that seals the top part of the cap assembly when closed. Pic from my 67 4a. Hard as a rock. Surprised no replacement easily found Jim Henningsen Ocala FL ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue May 4 14:01:38 2021 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 16:01:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6: Old Brake Study Message-ID: <0MJzil-1leqiP0I7B-001V38@mrelay.perfora.net> Many years ago, a few well known TR6 guys got together to document brake upgrades and the impact on braking distances. As I recall, they did stopping distances as follows: ? Stock front and rear brakes with .70? rear wheel cylinders ? Stock Front and .75? rear wheel cylinder ? Toyota Front Calipers and I don?t remember what size rear wheel cylinder they used. As I recall they didn?t do the Toyota calipers with both the stock and the .75? rear wheel cylinders so that piece of data was missing. Anybody have a link to that article? And it wasn?t a Buckeye project. Bob Bob Danielson TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue May 4 18:05:21 2021 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 17:05:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 4a gas cap In-Reply-To: <24CD01D6-900E-4B9F-993A-4110DD051B2B@gmail.com> References: <24CD01D6-900E-4B9F-993A-4110DD051B2B@gmail.com> Message-ID: I used an extra o-ring from an oil filter. It had a square profile that fit snugly but I had to trim it to fit. I don't think I even bothered gluing the ends together, just jammed it in there. It's not sealing fluid or rocket fuel, just vapors so I figured that was good enough. If you don't have an extra from an oil filter box you may be able to find something at Ace Hardware. Geo On Tue, May 4, 2021, 11:22 AM James Henningsen wrote: > Does anyone know of a replacement for the rubber gasket in the petrol > filler cap? No reference in factory parts manual and didn?t see anything > on TRF or Moss site. This is the gasket that seals the top part of the cap > assembly when closed. Pic from my 67 4a. Hard as a rock. Surprised no > replacement easily found > > Jim Henningsen > Ocala FL > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Tue May 4 18:27:37 2021 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 20:27:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 4a gas cap In-Reply-To: <24CD01D6-900E-4B9F-993A-4110DD051B2B@gmail.com> References: <24CD01D6-900E-4B9F-993A-4110DD051B2B@gmail.com> Message-ID: Jim; For what it's worth, it looks like the grommet is available from Rimmer Bros. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID200181 [image: image.png] Dave On Tue, May 4, 2021 at 2:21 PM James Henningsen wrote: > Does anyone know of a replacement for the rubber gasket in the petrol > filler cap? No reference in factory parts manual and didn?t see anything > on TRF or Moss site. This is the gasket that seals the top part of the cap > assembly when closed. Pic from my 67 4a. Hard as a rock. Surprised no > replacement easily found > > Jim Henningsen > Ocala FL > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 230657 bytes Desc: not available URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Wed May 5 05:01:47 2021 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Wed, 5 May 2021 07:01:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 4a gas cap In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks everyone for the ideas on this. Should be able to find a solution now. Jim > On May 4, 2021, at 8:05 PM, Geo Hahn wrote: > > ? > I used an extra o-ring from an oil filter. It had a square profile that fit snugly but I had to trim it to fit. I don't think I even bothered gluing the ends together, just jammed it in there. > > It's not sealing fluid or rocket fuel, just vapors so I figured that was good enough. > > If you don't have an extra from an oil filter box you may be able to find something at Ace Hardware. > > Geo > >> On Tue, May 4, 2021, 11:22 AM James Henningsen wrote: >> Does anyone know of a replacement for the rubber gasket in the petrol filler cap? No reference in factory parts manual and didn?t see anything on TRF or Moss site. This is the gasket that seals the top part of the cap assembly when closed. Pic from my 67 4a. Hard as a rock. Surprised no replacement easily found >> >> Jim Henningsen >> Ocala FL >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Wed May 5 08:10:01 2021 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Wed, 5 May 2021 10:10:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 4a gas cap In-Reply-To: References: <24CD01D6-900E-4B9F-993A-4110DD051B2B@gmail.com> Message-ID: <8D03DB626570457E8F2D2A1E8F89EDE0@UserTHINK> I don?t think that?s the seal he?s looking for. JVV From: David Friedlander Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2021 8:27 PM To: James Henningsen Cc: TR3 Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 4a gas cap Jim; For what it's worth, it looks like the grommet is available from Rimmer Bros. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID200181 Dave On Tue, May 4, 2021 at 2:21 PM James Henningsen wrote: Does anyone know of a replacement for the rubber gasket in the petrol filler cap? No reference in factory parts manual and didn?t see anything on TRF or Moss site. This is the gasket that seals the top part of the cap assembly when closed. Pic from my 67 4a. Hard as a rock. Surprised no replacement easily found Jim Henningsen Ocala FL ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 230657 bytes Desc: not available URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Wed May 5 08:23:52 2021 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen) Date: Wed, 5 May 2021 10:23:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 4a gas cap In-Reply-To: <8D03DB626570457E8F2D2A1E8F89EDE0@UserTHINK> References: <8D03DB626570457E8F2D2A1E8F89EDE0@UserTHINK> Message-ID: <767C4810-1932-460F-8044-DC158ECF393A@gmail.com> Correct. That?s the grommet that attaches to rear deck body that cap housing slides into. I?m going to ask TRF if the TR6 seal part number will fit. Seems like this would be a part readily available. Gas spills out of my 3a as the seal is not tight and I fill the tank. 3/4 fill and no more in that car. Jim > On May 5, 2021, at 10:10 AM, Jerry Van Vlack wrote: > > ? > I don?t think that?s the seal he?s looking for. > JVV > > From: David Friedlander > Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2021 8:27 PM > To: James Henningsen > Cc: TR3 Triumphs > Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 4a gas cap > > Jim; > > For what it's worth, it looks like the grommet is available from Rimmer Bros. > > https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID200181 > > > > > > Dave > > > On Tue, May 4, 2021 at 2:21 PM James Henningsen wrote: >> Does anyone know of a replacement for the rubber gasket in the petrol filler cap? No reference in factory parts manual and didn?t see anything on TRF or Moss site. This is the gasket that seals the top part of the cap assembly when closed. Pic from my 67 4a. Hard as a rock. Surprised no replacement easily found >> >> Jim Henningsen >> Ocala FL >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Wed May 5 10:06:35 2021 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud) Date: Wed, 5 May 2021 10:06:35 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4 4a gas cap In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6DFDDF6D-A93E-4787-8072-734840BF4F11@comcast.net> Jim, The gasket I?ve used on my TR6 oil filler cap for 20 years was cut from a bicycle tube. Bud Sent from my iPhone > On May 5, 2021, at 9:01 AM, Jim Henningsen wrote: > > ? > Thanks everyone for the ideas on this. Should be able to find a solution now. > Jim > >>> On May 4, 2021, at 8:05 PM, Geo Hahn wrote: >>> >> ? >> I used an extra o-ring from an oil filter. It had a square profile that fit snugly but I had to trim it to fit. I don't think I even bothered gluing the ends together, just jammed it in there. >> >> It's not sealing fluid or rocket fuel, just vapors so I figured that was good enough. >> >> If you don't have an extra from an oil filter box you may be able to find something at Ace Hardware. >> >> Geo >> >>> On Tue, May 4, 2021, 11:22 AM James Henningsen wrote: >>> Does anyone know of a replacement for the rubber gasket in the petrol filler cap? No reference in factory parts manual and didn?t see anything on TRF or Moss site. This is the gasket that seals the top part of the cap assembly when closed. Pic from my 67 4a. Hard as a rock. Surprised no replacement easily found >>> >>> Jim Henningsen >>> Ocala FL >>> >>> >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From staffel at comcast.net Fri May 7 10:36:28 2021 From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel) Date: Fri, 07 May 2021 12:36:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 fuel cap Seal option Message-ID: Hi Jim- I would clean with brake cleaner,? add a 1/8" bead of RTV in your favorite colour. Either leave cap open till RTV fully cures or schmear oil on Top of cap perimeter and close.ShermanColumbia MDTR4 CT50054LSent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Mon May 10 13:01:51 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 14:01:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Heralds Message-ID: <000501d745ce$f00fdd30$d02f9790$@ranteer.com> All - Please broadcast - my friend has 3 Hearld convertibles and 1 extra title. Lots of parts including a spare engine. Heralds do not run and drive, interior shot on all of them. I have numerous pictures. Cars located in a Dallas, TX suburb. He wants to sell as a package. I am trying to broker the deal because there is another car I want that would become part of the package. Contact me - dave at ranteer.com . -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cliff_hansen at outlook.com Mon May 10 14:26:43 2021 From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen) Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 20:26:43 +0000 Subject: [TR] 4cylinder block flushing fixture Message-ID: Listers, I?ve assembled a rig to connect a garden hose to the block drain port (remove the tap, screw in one end of the rig). Works a treat to reverse flush the block. The plumbing is basic but my prototype involves too many parts. I started with ?? male hose thread (MHT) to work with a cheapo radiator flush kit (specifically, the backflow preventer). A sequence of adapters gets from ? MHT to 3/8? tube, then to 5/16? tube to connect to a 5/16 hose barb to ?-20 ORB adapter. A ?? MHT to 5/16 barb is apparently made of unobtainium, as are any ?-20 ORB fittings with hose barbs other than 5/16?. I?ve found sources for parts to make these rigs more simply, but the parts are only sold in bulk. Would anyone be interested in one of these rigs? I would be happy to assemble kits and ship at cost (somewhere around $15), for the fun of it, if there?s enough demand. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Mon May 10 14:42:15 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 15:42:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] Heralds In-Reply-To: <695727919.2090255.1620675037550@mail.yahoo.com> References: <000501d745ce$f00fdd30$d02f9790$@ranteer.com> <695727919.2090255.1620675037550@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000f01d745dc$f6324410$e296cc30$@ranteer.com> There are a ton of extra parts including sheet metal, 4 new tires, and one of the heralds ran and drove 4 years ago. Plus 2 extra motors. One is a 1500 may have been rebuilt. And there is a Toyota 20R engine with a 4 speed tranny, running when removed. He has dashboards but none in good shape. Windshields are in decent shape, not cracked. All vehicles roll. Lot of rust in the turquoise car. Windows roll up and down. 4th title is a 66 or 67 saloon and includes the commission plate. From: Chad Sent: Monday, May 10, 2021 2:31 PM To: dave Subject: Re: [TR] Heralds Let's see some pics? Are the dashboards any good? Windshields? Thanks, Chad On Monday, May 10, 2021, 02:02:00 PM CDT, dave wrote: All - Please broadcast ? my friend has 3 Hearld convertibles and 1 extra title. Lots of parts including a spare engine. Heralds do not run and drive, interior shot on all of them. I have numerous pictures. Cars located in a Dallas, TX suburb. He wants to sell as a package. I am trying to broker the deal because there is another car I want that would become part of the package. Contact me ? dave at ranteer.com . ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Mon May 10 16:18:39 2021 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Mon, 10 May 2021 18:18:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] My Thanks Message-ID: <0c0801d745ea$6e1a7350$4a4f59f0$@gmail.com> List: This is a thank you and shameless plug. Many of you have helped me in the restoration of a 1962 early TR4 over the last 10 years. For that, a big thank you!! My goal was to rescue this car and bring it back to the way it left the factory. I have decided it is too nice for me to drive and I like driving my TRs hard. Therefore I made the hard decision to put it up for sale on Bring a Trailer. The link is below. I think it came out very well. Not as perfect as Macy's 1961 but not too far behind I hope. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1962-triumph-tr4-20/ Thanks for all the help on that car including a big shout out to Gary Hunter, Jere Dotten, and JK Jackson who provided so much help! All the best, Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL Soon to be only four TRs. From fishplate at gmail.com Tue May 11 16:27:02 2021 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 11 May 2021 18:27:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] My Thanks In-Reply-To: <0c0801d745ea$6e1a7350$4a4f59f0$@gmail.com> References: <0c0801d745ea$6e1a7350$4a4f59f0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: You have the wrong tag on it! (The "W" gives it away) On Mon, May 10, 2021, 18:19 Jim Henningsen wrote: > List: > This is a thank you and shameless plug. Many of you have helped me in the > restoration of a 1962 early TR4 over the last 10 years. For that, a big > thank you!! My goal was to rescue this car and bring it back to the way it > left the factory. I have decided it is too nice for me to drive and I like > driving my TRs hard. Therefore I made the hard decision to put it up for > sale on Bring a Trailer. The link is below. I think it came out very > well. > Not as perfect as Macy's 1961 but not too far behind I hope. > > https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1962-triumph-tr4-20/ > > Thanks for all the help on that car including a big shout out to Gary > Hunter, Jere Dotten, and JK Jackson who provided so much help! > > All the best, > Jim Henningsen > Ocala, FL > Soon to be only four TRs. > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Thu May 13 23:57:02 2021 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Thu, 13 May 2021 22:57:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts Message-ID: I need to replace the lock nuts uses to hold the diff flanges to the drive shafts on my stag. Can I use grade 2 nuts? Granger has some on clearance. I'm assuming basic nuts and bolts used Triumphs were grade 3 . Sujit -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Fri May 14 05:53:20 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 11:53:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1098171857.297712.1620993200624@mail.yahoo.com> I wouldn't use anything lower than Grade 5.? I used some common hardware store (Grade 2) bolts and nuts on my MGB driveshaft once? and they lasted less than a month.? This was a long time ago and I was still learning. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Sujit Roy To: Triumphs Sent: Fri, May 14, 2021 12:57 am Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts I need to replace the lock nuts uses to hold the diff flanges to the drive shafts on my stag. Can I use grade 2 nuts? Granger has some on clearance. I'm assuming basic nuts and bolts used Triumphs were grade 3 . Sujit** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Fri May 14 07:44:38 2021 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 06:44:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2DD8D96D-0597-4B84-9726-EC515FD3617E@yahoo.com> I believe that the usual nuts and bolts on a TR are equivalent to grade 5 or so and they may have been higher grade in this application. Grade 2 seems a bit ?wimpy? here. I would not use such a soft nut especially in this application. Also, do not use ?standard? bolts here as the flanges need to ride on the shank of the bolt, not on the tread. Either buy the correct bolt and nut or use NAS bolts and grade 8 locknuts. Of course I may be a little ?nuts? myself... Nick in NorCal Sent from the wilds of NorCal > On May 13, 2021, at 10:58 PM, Sujit Roy wrote: > > ? > > I need to replace the lock nuts uses to hold the diff flanges to the drive shafts on my stag. Can I use grade 2 nuts? Granger has some on clearance. I'm assuming basic nuts and bolts used Triumphs were grade 3 . > > Sujit > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/vintagenick42 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greg at gregoryd.com Fri May 14 09:06:07 2021 From: greg at gregoryd.com (Greg Donovan) Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 11:06:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts In-Reply-To: <2DD8D96D-0597-4B84-9726-EC515FD3617E@yahoo.com> References: <2DD8D96D-0597-4B84-9726-EC515FD3617E@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <34457F75-CB3F-4A57-9F04-C15801C1A1AA@gregoryd.com> A related by different question: My instinct here, almost always, would be to err on the side of higher grades. Rated for 2, put a 3 on. One disadvantage with this approach is cost: higher grades, more money. Other than higher cost, are there other disadvantages to using a higher grade than absolutely needed? Are there situations where the lower grade is preferable? E.g., if something's going to fail under stress, you?d rather it be a grade 2 bolt than the expensive component it?s securing. ?Greg > On May 14, 2021, at 9:44 AM, Nick Black wrote: > > I believe that the usual nuts and bolts on a TR are equivalent to grade 5 or so and they may have been higher grade in this application. > Grade 2 seems a bit ?wimpy? here. I would not use such a soft nut especially in this application. Also, do not use ?standard? bolts here as the flanges need to ride on the shank of the bolt, not on the tread. Either buy the correct bolt and nut or use NAS bolts and grade 8 locknuts. > > Of course I may be a little ?nuts? myself... > Nick in NorCal From aljlthomson at charter.net Fri May 14 11:38:55 2021 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 13:38:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004b01d748e8$039e0860$0ada1920$@charter.net> I believe that those bolts have a ground shank of an exact length so that they act as dowel pins. I would use at least a grade 5 nut. If you can?t find locknuts, I don?t see why some red Loctite wouldn?t work. A free driveshaft, whipping around in its tunnel at speed, would probably be a negative experience. Alex Thomson From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy Sent: Friday, May 14, 2021 1:57 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts I need to replace the lock nuts uses to hold the diff flanges to the drive shafts on my stag. Can I use grade 2 nuts? Granger has some on clearance. I'm assuming basic nuts and bolts used Triumphs were grade 3 . Sujit -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Fri May 14 11:59:51 2021 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 13:59:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts In-Reply-To: <004b01d748e8$039e0860$0ada1920$@charter.net> References: <004b01d748e8$039e0860$0ada1920$@charter.net> Message-ID: I bet if you look in the NcMaster-Car website you will find what you need. The downside is that you will have a whole box! Dave Connitt Sent from my iPhone > On May 14, 2021, at 1:39 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson wrote: > > ? > I believe that those bolts have a ground shank of an exact length so that they act as dowel pins. I would use at least a grade 5 nut. If you can?t find locknuts, I don?t see why some red Loctite wouldn?t work. A free driveshaft, whipping around in its tunnel at speed, would probably be a negative experience. > > Alex Thomson > > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy > Sent: Friday, May 14, 2021 1:57 AM > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts > > > I need to replace the lock nuts uses to hold the diff flanges to the drive shafts on my stag. Can I use grade 2 nuts? Granger has some on clearance. I'm assuming basic nuts and bolts used Triumphs were grade 3 . > > Sujit > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From grglmn at gmail.com Fri May 14 12:15:56 2021 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 13:15:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts In-Reply-To: References: <004b01d748e8$039e0860$0ada1920$@charter.net> Message-ID: "On Fri, May 14, 2021, 1:00 PM Dave Connitt wrote: > I bet if you look in the NcMaster-Car website you will find what you need. > The downside is that you will have a whole box! > Dave Connitt " > For a common size like this, 3/8" x 24 I think, you can get a box on Amazon and not pay shipping, once price 8 or so at the local hardware store you are also probably paying the same price for a whole box as the needed number. Despite having done this a few times, when I need something else it is a never a size I already have. Rapidly on my way to being old man who died with an impressive collection of nuts and bolts in coffee cans and Mason jars. Greg Lemon TR250 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Fri May 14 12:16:18 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 18:16:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts In-Reply-To: <34457F75-CB3F-4A57-9F04-C15801C1A1AA@gregoryd.com> References: <2DD8D96D-0597-4B84-9726-EC515FD3617E@yahoo.com> <34457F75-CB3F-4A57-9F04-C15801C1A1AA@gregoryd.com> Message-ID: <1289764466.379471.1621016178608@mail.yahoo.com> When you get to Grade 8 you are faced with a brittleness and breakage where a lower grade will stretch.? I saw a grade 8 bolt break and it was just holding a rocker shaft pedestal.? Grade 5 is more than adequate.? Dave -----Original Message----- From: Greg Donovan To: Triumphs Sent: Fri, May 14, 2021 10:06 am Subject: Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts A related by different question: My instinct here, almost always, would be to err on the side of higher grades. Rated for 2, put a 3 on. One disadvantage with this approach is cost: higher grades, more money. Other than higher cost, are there other disadvantages to using a higher grade than absolutely needed? Are there situations where the lower grade is preferable? E.g., if something's going to fail under stress, you?d rather it be a grade 2 bolt than the expensive component it?s securing. ?Greg > On May 14, 2021, at 9:44 AM, Nick Black wrote: > > I believe that the usual nuts and bolts on a TR are equivalent to grade 5 or so and they may have been higher grade in this application. > Grade 2 seems a bit ?wimpy? here. I would not use such a soft nut especially in this application. Also, do not use ?standard? bolts here as the flanges need to ride on the shank of the bolt, not on the tread. Either buy the correct bolt and nut or use? NAS bolts and grade 8 locknuts. > > Of course I may be a little ?nuts? myself... > Nick in NorCal ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Fri May 14 12:23:43 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 18:23:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts In-Reply-To: References: <004b01d748e8$039e0860$0ada1920$@charter.net> Message-ID: <2110624968.331845.1621016623434@mail.yahoo.com> Or a bag of 25.? Depends.? Buy lock washers while you're there.? at 7$/1000 they work out to be less than a penny a piece.? Some say never reuse a lock washer.? At $0.007each why would you? Dave -----Original Message----- From: Dave Connitt To: Alex & Janet Thomson Cc: Triumphs Sent: Fri, May 14, 2021 12:59 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts I bet if you look in the NcMaster-Car website you will find what you need. The downside is that you will have a whole box!Dave Connitt? Sent from my iPhone On May 14, 2021, at 1:39 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson wrote: ? #yiv3725024943 #yiv3725024943 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv3725024943 #yiv3725024943 p.yiv3725024943MsoNormal, #yiv3725024943 li.yiv3725024943MsoNormal, #yiv3725024943 div.yiv3725024943MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv3725024943 a:link, #yiv3725024943 span.yiv3725024943MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3725024943 a:visited, #yiv3725024943 span.yiv3725024943MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3725024943 span.yiv3725024943EmailStyle17 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv3725024943 .yiv3725024943MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv3725024943 div.yiv3725024943WordSection1 {}#yiv3725024943 I believe that those bolts have a ground shank of an exact length so that they act as dowel pins. I would use at least a grade 5 nut. If you can?t find locknuts, I don?t see why some red Loctite wouldn?t work. A free driveshaft, whipping around in its tunnel at speed, would probably be a negative experience. ?Alex Thomson ?From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy Sent: Friday, May 14, 2021 1:57 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts ? I need to replace the lock nuts uses to hold the diff flanges to the drive shafts on my stag. Can I use grade 2 nuts? Granger has some on clearance. I'm assuming basic nuts and bolts used Triumphs were grade 3 . ?Sujit** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs ?http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Fri May 14 12:25:29 2021 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 11:25:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts In-Reply-To: References: <004b01d748e8$039e0860$0ada1920$@charter.net> Message-ID: Hello All. Thanks, I'm keeping the original bolts as I'm aware of the plain shank on the bolts. I just bought a box of 50 grade 8 lock nuts off Amazon. Cheaper elsewhere, but I have Prime and will get them Sat. Regards, Sujit On Fri, May 14, 2021 at 11:16 AM Greg Lemon wrote: > > "On Fri, May 14, 2021, 1:00 PM Dave Connitt wrote: > >> I bet if you look in the NcMaster-Car website you will find what you >> need. The downside is that you will have a whole box! >> Dave Connitt " >> > > For a common size like this, 3/8" x 24 I think, you can get a box on > Amazon and not pay shipping, once price 8 or so at the local hardware store > you are also probably paying the same price for a whole box as the needed > number. > > Despite having done this a few times, when I need something else it is a > never a size I already have. Rapidly on my way to being old man who died > with an impressive collection of nuts and bolts in coffee cans and Mason > jars. > > Greg Lemon > TR250 > > >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com > -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cliff_hansen at outlook.com Fri May 14 12:28:09 2021 From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen) Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 18:28:09 +0000 Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts In-Reply-To: References: <004b01d748e8$039e0860$0ada1920$@charter.net> , Message-ID: I have contemplated setting up a hardware exchange club, but have no idea how to do it. For example, I needed 2 o-rings, I have 48 left; I have 9 3/8-24 thread inserts from a bag of 10. I doubt I?ll need these items again, perhaps someone else needs 1 or 2. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Greg Lemon Sent: Friday, May 14, 2021 12:17 PM To: Dave Connitt; Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts "On Fri, May 14, 2021, 1:00 PM Dave Connitt > wrote: I bet if you look in the NcMaster-Car website you will find what you need. The downside is that you will have a whole box! Dave Connitt " For a common size like this, 3/8" x 24 I think, you can get a box on Amazon and not pay shipping, once price 8 or so at the local hardware store you are also probably paying the same price for a whole box as the needed number. Despite having done this a few times, when I need something else it is a never a size I already have. Rapidly on my way to being old man who died with an impressive collection of nuts and bolts in coffee cans and Mason jars. Greg Lemon TR250 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Fri May 14 12:31:42 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 18:31:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts In-Reply-To: References: <004b01d748e8$039e0860$0ada1920$@charter.net> Message-ID: <642472377.383920.1621017102947@mail.yahoo.com> As much as I hate to say this but maybe a Googledoc's Spreadsheet is what's called for.? Enter your name, Email address part and qty and everyone can check it out when they need something.? Searcher and supplier can contact each other and work out the details. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Cliff Hansen To: Greg Lemon ; Dave Connitt ; Triumphs Sent: Fri, May 14, 2021 1:28 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts #yiv2261511989 #yiv2261511989 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv2261511989 #yiv2261511989 p.yiv2261511989MsoNormal, #yiv2261511989 li.yiv2261511989MsoNormal, #yiv2261511989 div.yiv2261511989MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv2261511989 a:link, #yiv2261511989 span.yiv2261511989MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv2261511989 .yiv2261511989MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv2261511989 div.yiv2261511989WordSection1 {}#yiv2261511989 I have contemplated setting up a hardware exchange club, but have no idea how to do it. ? For example, I needed 2 o-rings, I have 48 left; I have 9 3/8-24 thread inserts from a bag of 10. I doubt I?ll need these items again, perhaps someone else needs 1 or 2. ? Cliff ? ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Greg Lemon Sent: Friday, May 14, 2021 12:17 PM To: Dave Connitt; Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts ? ? "On Fri, May 14, 2021, 1:00 PM Dave Connitt wrote: I bet if you look in the NcMaster-Car website you will find what you need. The downside is that you will have a whole box! Dave Connitt " ? For a common size like this, 3/8" x 24 I think, you can get a box on Amazon and not pay shipping, once price 8 or so at the local hardware store you are also probably paying the same price for a whole box as the needed number. ? Despite having done this a few times, when I need something else it is a never a size I already have.? Rapidly on my way to being old man who died with an impressive collection of nuts and bolts in coffee cans and Mason jars. ? Greg Lemon TR250 ? ? ? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Fri May 14 12:38:26 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 13:38:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I needed to replace one bolt, in order to have the unthreaded shank I used a 2? bolt gr8 and cut it to size. Bill TS30800L Sent from my TRS80 On May 14, 2021, at 1:26 PM, Sujit Roy wrote: ? Hello All. Thanks, I'm keeping the original bolts as I'm aware of the plain shank on the bolts. I just bought a box of 50 grade 8 lock nuts off Amazon. Cheaper elsewhere, but I have Prime and will get them Sat. Regards, Sujit On Fri, May 14, 2021 at 11:16 AM Greg Lemon wrote: > > "On Fri, May 14, 2021, 1:00 PM Dave Connitt wrote: >> I bet if you look in the NcMaster-Car website you will find what you need. The downside is that you will have a whole box! >> Dave Connitt " > > > For a common size like this, 3/8" x 24 I think, you can get a box on Amazon and not pay shipping, once price 8 or so at the local hardware store you are also probably paying the same price for a whole box as the needed number. > > Despite having done this a few times, when I need something else it is a never a size I already have. Rapidly on my way to being old man who died with an impressive collection of nuts and bolts in coffee cans and Mason jars. > > Greg Lemon > TR250 > >> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greg at gelhar.com Fri May 14 14:06:29 2021 From: greg at gelhar.com (Greg Gelhar) Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 15:06:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts In-Reply-To: References: <004b01d748e8$039e0860$0ada1920$@charter.net> , Message-ID: <002d01d748fc$a430f7b0$ec92e710$@gelhar.com> I have often wished there was a site where you could ask about hardware and raw materials. It is always my fear that someone is throwing away the exact thing you are searching for. Greg G. From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Cliff Hansen Sent: Friday, May 14, 2021 1:28 PM To: Greg Lemon ; Dave Connitt ; Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts I have contemplated setting up a hardware exchange club, but have no idea how to do it. For example, I needed 2 o-rings, I have 48 left; I have 9 3/8-24 thread inserts from a bag of 10. I doubt I'll need these items again, perhaps someone else needs 1 or 2. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Greg Lemon Sent: Friday, May 14, 2021 12:17 PM To: Dave Connitt ; Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts "On Fri, May 14, 2021, 1:00 PM Dave Connitt > wrote: I bet if you look in the NcMaster-Car website you will find what you need. The downside is that you will have a whole box! Dave Connitt " For a common size like this, 3/8" x 24 I think, you can get a box on Amazon and not pay shipping, once price 8 or so at the local hardware store you are also probably paying the same price for a whole box as the needed number. Despite having done this a few times, when I need something else it is a never a size I already have. Rapidly on my way to being old man who died with an impressive collection of nuts and bolts in coffee cans and Mason jars. Greg Lemon TR250 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cliff_hansen at outlook.com Fri May 14 18:36:14 2021 From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen) Date: Sat, 15 May 2021 00:36:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts In-Reply-To: <642472377.383920.1621017102947@mail.yahoo.com> References: <004b01d748e8$039e0860$0ada1920$@charter.net> , <642472377.383920.1621017102947@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Here?s a prototype. Anyone with the link should be able to edit. Anybody have a webpage where it would make sense to put this link up? I suppose, if this actually works, we?d want to establish some rules, and management, and a taxonomy (which is a giant chore), and its Friday so I?m not going to let reality get in front of what might be a good idea. Cliff Hardware exchange - Google Sheets Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: DAVID MASSEY Sent: Friday, May 14, 2021 12:31 PM To: cliff_hansen at outlook.com; grglmn at gmail.com; dconnitt at fuse.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts As much as I hate to say this but maybe a Googledoc's Spreadsheet is what's called for. Enter your name, Email address part and qty and everyone can check it out when they need something. Searcher and supplier can contact each other and work out the details. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Cliff Hansen To: Greg Lemon ; Dave Connitt ; Triumphs Sent: Fri, May 14, 2021 1:28 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts I have contemplated setting up a hardware exchange club, but have no idea how to do it. For example, I needed 2 o-rings, I have 48 left; I have 9 3/8-24 thread inserts from a bag of 10. I doubt I?ll need these items again, perhaps someone else needs 1 or 2. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Greg Lemon Sent: Friday, May 14, 2021 12:17 PM To: Dave Connitt; Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts "On Fri, May 14, 2021, 1:00 PM Dave Connitt > wrote: I bet if you look in the NcMaster-Car website you will find what you need. The downside is that you will have a whole box! Dave Connitt " For a common size like this, 3/8" x 24 I think, you can get a box on Amazon and not pay shipping, once price 8 or so at the local hardware store you are also probably paying the same price for a whole box as the needed number. Despite having done this a few times, when I need something else it is a never a size I already have. Rapidly on my way to being old man who died with an impressive collection of nuts and bolts in coffee cans and Mason jars. Greg Lemon TR250 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sat May 15 06:29:12 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sat, 15 May 2021 12:29:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Spare parts list (was Grade 2 lock nuts) In-Reply-To: References: <004b01d748e8$039e0860$0ada1920$@charter.net> <642472377.383920.1621017102947@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <489768713.488627.1621081752693@mail.yahoo.com> I guess one rule that should be self-evident is that if you list something and someone buys it, takes it or you toss it, take it off the list.? Otherwise you may be solicited for an item you no longer have. I entered a part as a test.? I will later search for some serious items I would like to list. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Cliff Hansen To: DAVID MASSEY ; grglmn at gmail.com ; dconnitt at fuse.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, May 14, 2021 7:36 pm Subject: RE: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts #yiv0756478769 #yiv0756478769 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv0756478769 #yiv0756478769 p.yiv0756478769MsoNormal, #yiv0756478769 li.yiv0756478769MsoNormal, #yiv0756478769 div.yiv0756478769MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv0756478769 a:link, #yiv0756478769 span.yiv0756478769MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0756478769 .yiv0756478769MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv0756478769 div.yiv0756478769WordSection1 {}#yiv0756478769 Here?s a prototype. Anyone with the link should be able to edit. Anybody have a webpage where it would make sense to put this link up? ? I suppose, if this actually works, we?d want to establish some rules, and management, and a taxonomy (which is a giant chore), and its Friday so I?m not going to let reality get in front of what might be a good idea. ? Cliff ? Hardware exchange - Google Sheets ? ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: DAVID MASSEY Sent: Friday, May 14, 2021 12:31 PM To: cliff_hansen at outlook.com;grglmn at gmail.com; dconnitt at fuse.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts ? As much as I hate to say this but maybe a Googledoc's Spreadsheet is what's called for.? Enter your name, Email address part and qty and everyone can check it out when they need something.? Searcher and supplier can contact each other and work out the details. ? Dave ? ? -----Original Message----- From: Cliff Hansen To: Greg Lemon ; Dave Connitt ; Triumphs Sent: Fri, May 14, 2021 1:28 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts I have contemplated setting up a hardware exchange club, but have no idea how to do it. ? For example, I needed 2 o-rings, I have 48 left; I have 9 3/8-24 thread inserts from a bag of 10. I doubt I?ll need these items again, perhaps someone else needs 1 or 2. ? Cliff ? ? Sent fromMail for Windows 10 ? From:Greg Lemon Sent: Friday, May 14, 2021 12:17 PM To: Dave Connitt; Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts ? ? "On Fri, May 14, 2021, 1:00 PM Dave Connitt wrote: I bet if you look in the NcMaster-Car website you will find what you need. The downside is that you will have a whole box! Dave Connitt " ? For a common size like this, 3/8" x 24 I think, you can get a box on Amazon and not pay shipping, once price 8 or so at the local hardware store you are also probably paying the same price for a whole box as the needed number. ? Despite having done this a few times, when I need something else it is a never a size I already have.? Rapidly on my way to being old man who died with an impressive collection of nuts and bolts in coffee cans and Mason jars. ? Greg Lemon TR250 ? ? ? **triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphshttp://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From grglmn at gmail.com Sat May 15 08:32:38 2021 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sat, 15 May 2021 09:32:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts In-Reply-To: References: <004b01d748e8$039e0860$0ada1920$@charter.net> <642472377.383920.1621017102947@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: So this morning I was thinking about what I already have in spare bulk hardware because of the discussion of a list. I remembered that last year when I put the limited slip differential in my 250 I bought a box of 50 3/8" by 24 pitch grade 8 locknuts. If these are the same as a Stag that would have been the easy answer for a source. Sometimes I am slow on the uptake. On Fri, May 14, 2021, 7:36 PM Cliff Hansen wrote: > Here?s a prototype. Anyone with the link should be able to edit. Anybody > have a webpage where it would make sense to put this link up? > > > > I suppose, if this actually works, we?d want to establish some rules, and > management, and a taxonomy (which is a giant chore), and its Friday so I?m > not going to let reality get in front of what might be a good idea. > > > > Cliff > > > > Hardware exchange - Google Sheets > > > > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *DAVID MASSEY > *Sent: *Friday, May 14, 2021 12:31 PM > *To: *cliff_hansen at outlook.com; grglmn at gmail.com; dconnitt at fuse.net; > triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject: *Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts > > > > As much as I hate to say this but maybe a Googledoc's Spreadsheet is > what's called for. Enter your name, Email address part and qty and > everyone can check it out when they need something. Searcher and supplier > can contact each other and work out the details. > > > > Dave > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Cliff Hansen > To: Greg Lemon ; Dave Connitt ; > Triumphs > Sent: Fri, May 14, 2021 1:28 pm > Subject: Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts > > I have contemplated setting up a hardware exchange club, but have no idea > how to do it. > > > > For example, I needed 2 o-rings, I have 48 left; I have 9 3/8-24 thread > inserts from a bag of 10. I doubt I?ll need these items again, perhaps > someone else needs 1 or 2. > > > > Cliff > > > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Greg Lemon > *Sent: *Friday, May 14, 2021 12:17 PM > *To: *Dave Connitt ; Triumphs > *Subject: *Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts > > > > > > "On Fri, May 14, 2021, 1:00 PM Dave Connitt wrote: > > I bet if you look in the NcMaster-Car website you will find what you need. > The downside is that you will have a whole box! > > Dave Connitt " > > > > For a common size like this, 3/8" x 24 I think, you can get a box on > Amazon and not pay shipping, once price 8 or so at the local hardware store > you are also probably paying the same price for a whole box as the needed > number. > > > > Despite having done this a few times, when I need something else it is a > never a size I already have. Rapidly on my way to being old man who died > with an impressive collection of nuts and bolts in coffee cans and Mason > jars. > > > > Greg Lemon > > TR250 > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Sat May 15 11:02:28 2021 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Sat, 15 May 2021 10:02:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts In-Reply-To: References: <004b01d748e8$039e0860$0ada1920$@charter.net> <642472377.383920.1621017102947@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hello Greg. Yes. The very same. I ordered some from Amazon. I'm not sure where you are but sometimes postage offsets the cost of getting from other folks especially nuts and bolts I bought 100 oil sump bolts. I only needed 20. I think the size was 5/16-5/8 long. Anyone need any? I have two Stags and plan to use the other nuts for the other Stag. Thanks Sujit On Sat, May 15, 2021, 7:33 AM Greg Lemon wrote: > So this morning I was thinking about what I already have in spare bulk > hardware because of the discussion of a list. I remembered that last year > when I put the limited slip differential in my 250 I bought a box of 50 > 3/8" by 24 pitch grade 8 locknuts. If these are the same as a Stag that > would have been the easy answer for a source. > > Sometimes I am slow on the uptake. > > > > On Fri, May 14, 2021, 7:36 PM Cliff Hansen > wrote: > >> Here?s a prototype. Anyone with the link should be able to edit. Anybody >> have a webpage where it would make sense to put this link up? >> >> >> >> I suppose, if this actually works, we?d want to establish some rules, and >> management, and a taxonomy (which is a giant chore), and its Friday so I?m >> not going to let reality get in front of what might be a good idea. >> >> >> >> Cliff >> >> >> >> Hardware exchange - Google Sheets >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> >> >> *From: *DAVID MASSEY >> *Sent: *Friday, May 14, 2021 12:31 PM >> *To: *cliff_hansen at outlook.com; grglmn at gmail.com; dconnitt at fuse.net; >> triumphs at autox.team.net >> *Subject: *Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts >> >> >> >> As much as I hate to say this but maybe a Googledoc's Spreadsheet is >> what's called for. Enter your name, Email address part and qty and >> everyone can check it out when they need something. Searcher and supplier >> can contact each other and work out the details. >> >> >> >> Dave >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Cliff Hansen >> To: Greg Lemon ; Dave Connitt ; >> Triumphs >> Sent: Fri, May 14, 2021 1:28 pm >> Subject: Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts >> >> I have contemplated setting up a hardware exchange club, but have no idea >> how to do it. >> >> >> >> For example, I needed 2 o-rings, I have 48 left; I have 9 3/8-24 thread >> inserts from a bag of 10. I doubt I?ll need these items again, perhaps >> someone else needs 1 or 2. >> >> >> >> Cliff >> >> >> >> >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> >> >> *From: *Greg Lemon >> *Sent: *Friday, May 14, 2021 12:17 PM >> *To: *Dave Connitt ; Triumphs >> >> *Subject: *Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts >> >> >> >> >> >> "On Fri, May 14, 2021, 1:00 PM Dave Connitt wrote: >> >> I bet if you look in the NcMaster-Car website you will find what you >> need. The downside is that you will have a whole box! >> >> Dave Connitt " >> >> >> >> For a common size like this, 3/8" x 24 I think, you can get a box on >> Amazon and not pay shipping, once price 8 or so at the local hardware store >> you are also probably paying the same price for a whole box as the needed >> number. >> >> >> >> Despite having done this a few times, when I need something else it is a >> never a size I already have. Rapidly on my way to being old man who died >> with an impressive collection of nuts and bolts in coffee cans and Mason >> jars. >> >> >> >> Greg Lemon >> >> TR250 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com >> >> >> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fmags at cox.net Sat May 15 14:36:41 2021 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Sat, 15 May 2021 15:36:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1969 Spitfire Mk3 for sale Message-ID: I've got a very nice '69 Spitfire for sale. If anyone is interested, please contact me offline. Thanks, Frank From mark at bradakis.com Sat May 15 19:19:23 2021 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 15 May 2021 19:19:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] Oh my. Message-ID: https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7178174 mjb. From notakitcar at yahoo.com Sat May 15 20:25:07 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Sat, 15 May 2021 21:25:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] Oh my. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Well I never?.. Each to his own, but after 15 years finish it up properly. Just sayin, Bill TS30800L (TR4A powered) Sent from my TRS80 On May 15, 2021, at 8:19 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: ? https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7178174 mjb. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun May 16 08:13:24 2021 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 10:13:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Oh my. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2a427279-9fe6-2fc2-24e4-02f91519f281@adelphia.net> I have seen rat rods at car hops and they look similar to this 3 but usually made out of an old truck. Not my cup of tea either from a truck or a 3. BTW, I had my 6 and 3 out yesterday. 3 for the first time in 21. I am ready for another season of fun. Bob On 5/15/21 9:19 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > > https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7178174 > > > mjb. > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net From dave at ranteer.com Sun May 16 11:18:20 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 12:18:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] Oh my. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002c01d74a77$7909ad80$6b1d0880$@ranteer.com> I believe that a project, especially on this one so long in the running, was not finished because there was some unsolvable or extremely expensive item left on the to do list. -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of bill beecher Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2021 9:25 PM To: Mark J Bradakis Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Oh my. Well I never?.. Each to his own, but after 15 years finish it up properly. Just sayin, Bill TS30800L (TR4A powered) Sent from my TRS80 On May 15, 2021, at 8:19 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: ? https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7178174 mjb. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave at ranteer.com From ryel at mac.com Sun May 16 11:37:05 2021 From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston) Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 10:37:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oh my. In-Reply-To: <002c01d74a77$7909ad80$6b1d0880$@ranteer.com> References: <002c01d74a77$7909ad80$6b1d0880$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: Having kids or health issues can change priorities in a heart beat, it could be as simple as that and nothing to do with the car. Rye > On May 16, 2021, at 10:18 AM, dave wrote: > > I believe that a project, especially on this one so long in the running, was not finished because there was some unsolvable or extremely expensive item left on the to do list. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of bill beecher > Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2021 9:25 PM > To: Mark J Bradakis > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Oh my. > > Well I never?.. > Each to his own, but after 15 years finish it up properly. > > Just sayin, > Bill > TS30800L (TR4A powered) > > Sent from my TRS80 > > On May 15, 2021, at 8:19 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > > ? > https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7178174 > > > mjb. > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave at ranteer.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com From john at linneyweb.com Sun May 16 18:00:42 2021 From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney) Date: Sun, 16 May 2021 17:00:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oh my. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <565F4B37-E486-4AFB-BD9C-F2FC1B6DE30E@linneyweb.com> My guess is those ?short? trips were so petrifying they just want the thing gone. > On May 16, 2021, at 10:37 AM, Rye Livingston wrote: > > ?Having kids or health issues can change priorities in a heart beat, it could be as simple as that and nothing to do with the car. > > Rye > >> On May 16, 2021, at 10:18 AM, dave wrote: >> >> I believe that a project, especially on this one so long in the running, was not finished because there was some unsolvable or extremely expensive item left on the to do list. >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Triumphs On Behalf Of bill beecher >> Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2021 9:25 PM >> To: Mark J Bradakis >> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [TR] Oh my. >> >> Well I never?.. >> Each to his own, but after 15 years finish it up properly. >> >> Just sayin, >> Bill >> TS30800L (TR4A powered) >> >> Sent from my TRS80 >> >> On May 15, 2021, at 8:19 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: >> >> ? >> https://cars.ksl.com/listing/7178174 >> >> >> mjb. >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave at ranteer.com >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john at linneyweb.com From dave1massey at cs.com Fri May 14 16:03:45 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 14 May 2021 22:03:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts In-Reply-To: <002d01d748fc$a430f7b0$ec92e710$@gelhar.com> References: <004b01d748e8$039e0860$0ada1920$@charter.net> <002d01d748fc$a430f7b0$ec92e710$@gelhar.com> Message-ID: <186274715.431799.1621029825277@mail.yahoo.com> After parting out a car or two I find that I have three of somethings I don't need and none of what I do need.? Like many on this list, I just hate tossing out something that is perfectly good but surplus.? I think a spreadsheet on Google Docs would work if it can be set to allow anybody to edit.? I haven't figured that out yet. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Greg Gelhar To: 'Cliff Hansen' ; 'Greg Lemon' ; 'Dave Connitt' ; 'Triumphs' Sent: Fri, May 14, 2021 3:06 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts #yiv9731540131 #yiv9731540131 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv9731540131 #yiv9731540131 p.yiv9731540131MsoNormal, #yiv9731540131 li.yiv9731540131MsoNormal, #yiv9731540131 div.yiv9731540131MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv9731540131 a:link, #yiv9731540131 span.yiv9731540131MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9731540131 span.yiv9731540131EmailStyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv9731540131 .yiv9731540131MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv9731540131 div.yiv9731540131WordSection1 {}#yiv9731540131 I have often wished there was a site where you could ask about hardware and raw materials. It is always my fear that someone is throwing away the exact thing you are searching for. ?Greg G. ?From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Cliff Hansen Sent: Friday, May 14, 2021 1:28 PM To: Greg Lemon ; Dave Connitt ; Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts ?I have contemplated setting up a hardware exchange club, but have no idea how to do it. ?For example, I needed 2 o-rings, I have 48 left; I have 9 3/8-24 thread inserts from a bag of 10. I doubt I?ll need these items again, perhaps someone else needs 1 or 2. ?Cliff ? ?Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ?From: Greg Lemon Sent: Friday, May 14, 2021 12:17 PM To: Dave Connitt; Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts ? ?"On Fri, May 14, 2021, 1:00 PM Dave Connitt wrote: I bet if you look in the NcMaster-Car website you will find what you need. The downside is that you will have a whole box!Dave Connitt " ?For a common size like this, 3/8" x 24 I think, you can get a box on Amazon and not pay shipping, once price 8 or so at the local hardware store you are also probably paying the same price for a whole box as the needed number. ?Despite having done this a few times, when I need something else it is a never a size I already have.? Rapidly on my way to being old man who died with an impressive collection of nuts and bolts in coffee cans and Mason jars. ?Greg LemonTR250 ?? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue May 18 11:47:01 2021 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 10:47:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] I story... Message-ID: This winter we worked on getting the TR3 & TR6 in as good shape as possible Front and rear pads and liners were installed (new) TR6 enjoyed having all the old Hydralic fluid removed and replaced several other enhancements but I want to stick with the Front Brakes on TR6. After the work was done we followed the Moss instructions ?drive slowly up and down for a while, do not use brakes? We did that, all seemed well, we slowly began using the brakes and all was well. Then we took several short drives ?avoiding hard braking? 10 miles, 20 miles, 50 miles we are being ?good?. But ? you knew this was coming ? Yesterday AB drove to Lodi for a meeting with her PEO ladies, first time this year. No problem ? coming through Lockford, CA a Fire Truck came out suddenly and she needed to get out of the way, pulled to curb, heavy braking. When all clear she started returning home 10 miles, no need for brakes, she the caught a Stoplight for several minutes and she noticed the brake pedal just needed to be touched and she would be able to stop?very worry because before the pedal had normal movement. She drove on home 5 miles and when she entered the garage the front disks were SMOKING! Nothing to do but wait for all to cool down. I have several pictures Rotor has sand melted on rim, some streaks on flat side. Why??? Well they got to hot ? yep ? but why? When we removed the new disks, they were backed by a thin shim. That was on the original pads as they grew smaller. Is it possible that those shims put too much pressure and caused the serious overheating? A small mind would like to know. I have photos if anyone is interested , all kind looks OK ,,, Thanks Bill & AnnaBelle Rosey TR6 1970 Casper TR3 1957 (he is just fine) From lherault at verizon.net Tue May 18 13:23:23 2021 From: lherault at verizon.net (Ron L'Herault) Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 15:23:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] selling excess In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003f01d74c1b$458c0070$d0a40150$@net> I've got a 1958 TR-3 hood in my garage, and I'd like to give it to someone who needs it. I'm in North Attleboro, MA. It is not perfect, for sure. It flew up and smashed the windshield before I owned the car and one edge is getting rusty from sitting around since 1968 or so. Come get it! Use it for a wall hanging, or fix it up for your car. It deserves to live! Ron L From daveg at online.no Tue May 18 15:41:21 2021 From: daveg at online.no (David Griffiths) Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 23:41:21 +0200 Subject: [TR] working on control head for horn and turn indicator, 1957 TR3 References: Message-ID: <6204ad90-18fa-4b97-9193-a76e9a51ac0d@Spark> Hello all, I need to repair a faulty horn/turn indicator on an early 1957 TR3 and I have not done this before. Looking at the Bentley manual on p 244, there is a section 4 on removal of the control head from the steering wheel, in which you disconnect the horn and flasher wires, loosen the gland nut on the stator tube, slacken 3 grub screws and withdraw the control head and stator tube form the steering column. This is a regular steering unit, not the telescopic one. Is this the correct section to use for this job, and is there anything diabolical I need to watch out for? Very grateful for any tips or hints, Thanks, Dave Griffiths -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue May 18 15:53:17 2021 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 17:53:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] working on control head for horn and turn indicator, 1957 TR3 In-Reply-To: <6204ad90-18fa-4b97-9193-a76e9a51ac0d@Spark> References: <6204ad90-18fa-4b97-9193-a76e9a51ac0d@Spark> Message-ID: <2d2856c3-61ca-928c-e0c4-9f7931c9aeb4@adelphia.net> Dave, Looks correct. But once you loosen the gland nut, the oil from the steering box will drip out while you work on the repair. Makes quite a mess. In order to prevent the mess, make a funnel of sorts to guide the oil into a pan. Dont forget to fill the box after repair is complete. Also, make sure the wires that are pulled up through the column are as tight as possible. I have always taped them so they stay in place. Very tight fit. It is also a good idea to tie a nylon string to the bottom of the wire harness so it is easier to guide the re-fit by keeping tension on the string/wires as the tube is lowered back in the column. This will require a helping hand. Also dont forget to disconnect the battery before you start with the wires. Remember the horn/signal assembly is 60 years old and will tend to be quite brittle. Handle with care as they are easy to crack. Bob On 5/18/21 5:41 PM, David Griffiths wrote: > Hello all, > > I need to repair a faulty horn/turn indicator on an early 1957 TR3 and > I have not done this before. Looking at the Bentley manual on p 244, > there is a section 4 on removal of the control head from the steering > wheel, in which you disconnect the horn and flasher wires, loosen the > gland nut on the stator tube, slacken 3 grub screws and withdraw the > control head and stator tube form the steering column. This is a > regular steering unit, not the telescopic one. > > Is this the correct section to use for this job, and is there anything > diabolical I need to watch out for? > > Very grateful for any tips or hints, > > Thanks, > Dave Griffiths > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue May 18 17:19:42 2021 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 18 May 2021 23:19:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] working on control head for horn and turn indicator, 1957 TR3 In-Reply-To: <6204ad90-18fa-4b97-9193-a76e9a51ac0d@Spark> References: <6204ad90-18fa-4b97-9193-a76e9a51ac0d@Spark> Message-ID: <441195600.1159209.1621379982162@mail.yahoo.com> thats about it.no need to loosed the gland nut the indicator has a short piece of stator that will pull away Frank On Tuesday, May 18, 2021, 02:42:12 PM PDT, David Griffiths wrote: Hello all, I need to repair a faulty horn/turn indicator on an early 1957 TR3 and I have not done this before. Looking at the Bentley manual on p 244, there is a section 4 on removal of the control head from the steering wheel, in which you disconnect the horn and flasher wires, loosen the gland nut on the stator tube, slacken 3 grub screws and withdraw the control head and stator tube form the steering column. This is a regular steering unit, not the telescopic one.? Is this the correct section to use for this job, and is there anything diabolical I need to watch out for?? Very grateful for any tips or hints, Thanks, Dave Griffiths** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Fri May 21 04:11:05 2021 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Fri, 21 May 2021 06:11:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] I story... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I didn't see any responses...so here's my thoughts. 1. This is a typical symptom of swollen brake hoses. Easy to check: Jack up the car, and see if the wheel spins. If so, apply the brakes firmly and check to see if it's tight. If so, open the bleed screw and see if it now spins easier. If so, probably need to investigate new hoses. 2. If you didn't have trouble getting the new pads in the calipers, then the shim probably isn't the problem. 3. Calipers can also fail. 4. Is the problem on more than one wheel? (This should have actually been first - if it shows up on wheels that don't share a hose, look to the master cylinder - or a problem with the new parts.) On Tue, May 18, 2021 at 1:48 PM William Pugh wrote: > > This winter we worked on getting the TR3 & TR6 in as good shape as possible > > Front and rear pads and liners were installed (new) > TR6 enjoyed having all the old Hydralic fluid removed and replaced several other enhancements but I want to stick with the Front Brakes on TR6. > After the work was done we followed the Moss instructions ?drive slowly up and down for a while, do not use brakes? We did that, all seemed well, we slowly began using the brakes and all was well. > Then we took several short drives ?avoiding hard braking? 10 miles, 20 miles, 50 miles we are being ?good?. > > But ? you knew this was coming ? Yesterday AB drove to Lodi for a meeting with her PEO ladies, first time this year. No problem ? coming through Lockford, CA a Fire Truck came out suddenly and she needed to get out of the way, pulled to curb, heavy braking. When all clear she started returning home 10 miles, no need for brakes, she the caught a Stoplight for several minutes and she noticed the brake pedal just needed to be touched and she would be able to stop?very worry because before the pedal had normal movement. > > She drove on home 5 miles and when she entered the garage the front disks were SMOKING! > > Nothing to do but wait for all to cool down. > > I have several pictures Rotor has sand melted on rim, some streaks on flat side. Why??? > > Well they got to hot ? yep ? but why? When we removed the new disks, they were backed by a thin shim. That was on the original pads as they grew smaller. Is it possible that those shims put too much pressure and caused the serious overheating? A small mind would like to know. > > I have photos if anyone is interested , all kind looks OK ,,, > > > Thanks > Bill & AnnaBelle > Rosey TR6 1970 > Casper TR3 1957 (he is just fine) > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com From dave1massey at cs.com Fri May 21 05:37:46 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 21 May 2021 11:37:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] I story... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <555559217.1515154.1621597066097@mail.yahoo.com> A swollen hose is definitely a possibility and the most likely explanation for a single brake hang-up.? Another possibility for the front brakes staying engaged is that the tipping valve in the master cylinder is not getting actuated to relieve residual pressure when the brakes are released.? Your comment " she noticed the brake pedal just needed to be touched and she would be able to stop" suggests that either the pedal is not returning fully or the piston in the master cylinder is not returning sufficiently to engage the tipping valve.? The tipping valve opens the passage between the front brake circuit and the reservoir.? As the fluid in the calipers warms up and expands the excess volume must vent to the reservoir to prevent the build-up of pressure and the resulting engagement of the pads. This failure will effect both front brakes equally. The rear circuit has a similar device at the very end of the piston.? It is the little cup that blocks off the port to the rear reservoir.? I've seen one of those become disengaged causing the brakes to self-actuate.? This was on a Hearld (single circuit brakes) and cracking a bleeder resolved the problem in the short term. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Scarbrough To: William Pugh Cc: TR3/6 Sent: Fri, May 21, 2021 5:11 am Subject: Re: [TR] I story... I didn't see any responses...so here's my thoughts. 1.? This is a typical symptom of swollen brake hoses.? Easy to check: Jack up the car, and see if the wheel spins.? If so, apply the brakes firmly and check to see if it's tight.? If so, open the bleed screw and see if it now spins easier.? If so, probably need to investigate new hoses. 2.? If you didn't have trouble getting the new pads in the calipers, then the shim probably isn't the problem. 3.? Calipers can also fail. 4.? Is the problem on more than one wheel?? (This should have actually been first - if it shows up on wheels that don't share a hose, look to the master cylinder - or a problem with the new parts.) On Tue, May 18, 2021 at 1:48 PM William Pugh wrote: > > This winter we worked on getting the TR3 & TR6 in as good shape as possible > > Front and rear pads and liners were installed (new) > TR6 enjoyed having all the old Hydralic fluid removed and replaced several other enhancements but I want to stick with the Front Brakes on TR6. >? ? ? ? After the work was done we followed the Moss instructions ?drive slowly up and down for a while, do not use brakes?? We did that, all seemed well, we slowly began using the brakes and all was well. >? ? ? ? Then we took several short drives ?avoiding hard braking?? 10 miles, 20 miles, 50 miles we are being ?good?. > > But ? you knew this was coming ? Yesterday AB drove to Lodi for a meeting with her PEO ladies, first time this year. No problem ? coming through Lockford, CA a Fire Truck came out suddenly and she needed to get out of the way, pulled to curb, heavy braking. When all clear she started returning home 10 miles, no need for brakes, she the caught a Stoplight for several minutes and she noticed the brake pedal just needed to be touched and she would be able to stop?very worry because before the pedal had normal movement. > > She drove on home 5 miles and when she entered the garage the front disks were SMOKING! > > Nothing to do but wait for all to cool down. > > I have several pictures Rotor has sand melted on rim, some streaks on flat side. Why??? > > Well they got to hot ? yep ? but why? When we removed the new disks, they were backed by a thin shim.? That was on the original pads as they grew smaller.? Is it possible that those shims put too much pressure and caused the serious overheating?? A small mind would like to know. > > I have photos if anyone is interested , all kind looks OK ,,, > > > Thanks > Bill & AnnaBelle > Rosey TR6? 1970 > Casper TR3? 1957 (he is just fine) > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Sun May 23 14:38:21 2021 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 23 May 2021 14:38:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR Conventions? Message-ID: Didn't the vtr.org website once have a full list of all the national conventions over the years? mjb. From greg at gelhar.com Sun May 23 16:30:21 2021 From: greg at gelhar.com (Greg Gelhar) Date: Sun, 23 May 2021 17:30:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] VTR Conventions? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002b01d75023$3a28f880$ae7ae980$@gelhar.com> Mark, Here is something I put together for the 2018 VTR our club hosted. It shouldn't be to difficult to add the latest years. Greg G. 1973 TR6 Osseo, MN -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2021 3:38 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] VTR Conventions? Didn't the vtr.org website once have a full list of all the national conventions over the years? mjb. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg at gelhar.com -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: VTR history.xlsx Type: application/vnd.openxmlformats-officedocument.spreadsheetml.sheet Size: 13875 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mark at bradakis.com Sun May 23 20:09:11 2021 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 23 May 2021 20:09:11 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR Conventions? In-Reply-To: <002b01d75023$3a28f880$ae7ae980$@gelhar.com> References: <002b01d75023$3a28f880$ae7ae980$@gelhar.com> Message-ID: <5cc849f5-922e-2c78-fcfc-8871119b4191@bradakis.com> Thanks!? Just the sort of thing I wanted to find.? Wow.? I attended 12 in a row - 1990 - 2001. mjb. From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Mon May 24 13:30:34 2021 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 15:30:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR Conventions? In-Reply-To: <002b01d75023$3a28f880$ae7ae980$@gelhar.com> References: <002b01d75023$3a28f880$ae7ae980$@gelhar.com> Message-ID: I have added this data to the VTR website with credit to Greg for gathering the data.? I'll work to get the missing information added.? It resides on the ABOUT VTR page, here is a direct link to the accordion tab containing the data: https://vintagetriumphregister.org/whatisvtr/#1621883719547-08814616-b474 Cheers, Blake Discher On 5/23/21 6:30 PM, Greg Gelhar wrote: > Mark, > Here is something I put together for the 2018 VTR our club hosted. It > shouldn't be to difficult to add the latest years. > > Greg G. > 1973 TR6 > Osseo, MN > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Mark J > Bradakis > Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2021 3:38 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] VTR Conventions? > > Didn't the vtr.org website once have a full list of all the national > conventions over the years? > > mjb. > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg at gelhar.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bill.anderson at windstream.net Mon May 24 15:43:09 2021 From: bill.anderson at windstream.net (Bill Anderson) Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 17:43:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Project Cars and Parts Message-ID: I have had these cars for years and have not been able to work on them for various health and life reasons. My wife says she will have them taken by a local junkyard should I pass on. I would like to see someone with a love of these cars wind up with them, not the junkman. If you are interested make an offer I live in the North East Georgia foothills. Project Car #1 https://goo.gl/photos/81JPZDWwctqcz7Gi7 Project Car #2 https://goo.gl/photos/yHCRecSrbShwXCVB6 Parts Car https://goo.gl/photos/8DvV5rCyiFMshPtv9 Parts https://goo.gl/photos/VxFZWDykyRJ8B2MD9 Sheet Metal https://goo.gl/photos/LQHAAD1NnAXMePiw7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From spitlist at cox.net Mon May 24 18:11:01 2021 From: spitlist at cox.net (JOE CURRY) Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 20:11:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Project Cars and Parts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1309026880.16411.1621901461430@myemail.cox.net> I only wish I lived closer. But my wife has already said that when I die, she is going to have a construction dumpster delivered and filled up with all my spare parts. ALAS, THEY JUST DON'T UNDERSTAND! > On May 24, 2021 at 5:43 PM Bill Anderson wrote: > > I have had these cars for years and have not been able to work on them for various health and life reasons. My wife says she will have them taken by a local junkyard should I pass on. I would like to see someone with a love of these cars wind up with them, not the junkman. If you are interested make an offer > I live in the North East Georgia foothills. > > Project Car #1 https://goo.gl/photos/81JPZDWwctqcz7Gi7 > Project Car #2 https://goo.gl/photos/yHCRecSrbShwXCVB6 > Parts Car https://goo.gl/photos/8DvV5rCyiFMshPtv9 > Parts https://goo.gl/photos/VxFZWDykyRJ8B2MD9 > Sheet Metal https://goo.gl/photos/LQHAAD1NnAXMePiw7 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Mon May 24 18:39:21 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (Notakitcar) Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 19:39:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] [Bmcu] TR3 Oil In-Reply-To: <000f01c797ef$d8928f50$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> References: <000f01c797ef$d8928f50$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <000001d750fe$68ac0c20$3a042460$@yahoo.com> Just read of a terrible accident in Wyoming involving a Michael Marr. Is this our Michael Marr? Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-triumphs at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-triumphs at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf Of Michael Marr Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 2:25 PM To: William Beecher ; triumphs at autox.team.net; 'BMCU' Subject: Re: [TR] RE: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil I would guess that the difference is due to the difference in Imperial pints (20 oz.) vs. US pints (16 oz.). I f you adjust for this difference, 10 Imp. Pints = 6.25 US quarts, which would account for the difference you observed. I could confirm this by looking in the manual but it is in the garage and I am in the middle of something right now. Michael Marr Plainfield, IL > An interesting note: > The TR2-3 manual calls for 10 pints or 5.7 liters on a refill. I have > been around the metric block a few times and did the math, 10 pints is > 5 quarts while 5.7 liters in 6 quarts. I bought 5 quarts of Castrol > 20/50 (as > recommended) and a new FRAM CH820PL (pay me now or pay me later) oil > filter and after starting and running the motor for a couple of > minutes to fill the filter case, the level does not even touch the > dipstick. Looks like I am going to need at least another 1.5 quarts > or 1.4191 liters. Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air: http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 5/15/2007 10:47 AM From mmarr at albiontechnical.com Mon May 24 19:07:29 2021 From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr) Date: Tue, 25 May 2021 01:07:29 +0000 Subject: [TR] [Bmcu] TR3 Oil In-Reply-To: <000001d750fe$68ac0c20$3a042460$@yahoo.com> References: <000f01c797ef$d8928f50$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>, <000001d750fe$68ac0c20$3a042460$@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <45550D81-022B-499F-A6B6-556E4DFA4767@albiontechnical.com> Well, let me check... yep, still in one piece! I am safely ensconced at home in Wisconsin. Thanks for caring! Do you know where the accident was? I have a stepson in Wyoming (different surname). Mike Sent from my iPhone > On May 24, 2021, at 19:40, Notakitcar wrote: > > ?Just read of a terrible accident in Wyoming involving a Michael Marr. Is > this our Michael Marr? > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-triumphs at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-triumphs at Autox.Team.Net] > On Behalf Of Michael Marr > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 2:25 PM > To: William Beecher ; triumphs at autox.team.net; 'BMCU' > > Subject: Re: [TR] RE: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil > > I would guess that the difference is due to the difference in Imperial pints > (20 oz.) vs. US pints (16 oz.). I f you adjust for this difference, 10 Imp. > > Pints = 6.25 US quarts, which would account for the difference you observed. > > I could confirm this by looking in the manual but it is in the garage and I > am in the middle of something right now. > > Michael Marr > Plainfield, IL > > >> An interesting note: >> The TR2-3 manual calls for 10 pints or 5.7 liters on a refill. I have >> been around the metric block a few times and did the math, 10 pints is >> 5 quarts while 5.7 liters in 6 quarts. I bought 5 quarts of Castrol >> 20/50 (as >> recommended) and a new FRAM CH820PL (pay me now or pay me later) oil >> filter and after starting and running the motor for a couple of >> minutes to fill the filter case, the level does not even touch the >> dipstick. Looks like I am going to need at least another 1.5 quarts >> or 1.4191 liters. > > Your messages not reaching the list? > Check out https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_posting.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=mKxq9JC1o1z__bZJZiiliegjWepe1KJjfWJ6CGcm7D8&e= > > === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register > === https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.vtr.org&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=rMs4KqRZjC2WiXPDh_-6XECEKB1IZwHCefJLb1oqgRg&e= > > === Help keep https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__Team.Net&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=flzsGUxTSvIdxMFiofXAe4zanSET_KkiHXOsNaWiyYY&e= on the air: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=HH7H8Z-t523EtvtNmnWRWZmHjbAhhzCv9KNDKwaUqWc&e= > > === unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net === > Archives at https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=mawbW6JvEx6h2QYzr8KUQe5gT2oHdO1gSriJ-AylWqU&e= === https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_the-2Dlocal&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=nTcppAzsEb0PbC0fOWONdFYUp6AcMcCi0DfcH2IyHh8&e= > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 5/15/2007 > 10:47 AM > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=HH7H8Z-t523EtvtNmnWRWZmHjbAhhzCv9KNDKwaUqWc&e= > Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=gBH8Dg9X9qKcSHdA9_pU4y91G9jGjx6LXZS1GxDD8AU&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=mawbW6JvEx6h2QYzr8KUQe5gT2oHdO1gSriJ-AylWqU&e= > > Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=Ay6Ui9JIoIHsG1ycWktohxE63c73w0tWNO-0hoB8FjI&e= From grglmn at gmail.com Mon May 24 19:21:01 2021 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 20:21:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Project Cars and Parts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Same here, wish I were closer--could really use a good trunk lid. Greg On Mon, May 24, 2021, 4:44 PM Bill Anderson wrote: > I have had these cars for years and have not been able to work on them for > various health and life reasons. My wife says she will have them taken by a > local junkyard should I pass on. I would like to see someone with a love of > these cars wind up with them, not the junkman. If you are interested make > an offer > I live in the North East Georgia foothills. > > Project Car #1 https://goo.gl/photos/81JPZDWwctqcz7Gi7 > Project Car #2 https://goo.gl/photos/yHCRecSrbShwXCVB6 > Parts Car https://goo.gl/photos/8DvV5rCyiFMshPtv9 > Parts https://goo.gl/photos/VxFZWDykyRJ8B2MD9 > Sheet Metal https://goo.gl/photos/LQHAAD1NnAXMePiw7 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Mon May 24 21:17:42 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 22:17:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] [Bmcu] TR3 Oil In-Reply-To: <45550D81-022B-499F-A6B6-556E4DFA4767@albiontechnical.com> References: <45550D81-022B-499F-A6B6-556E4DFA4767@albiontechnical.com> Message-ID: Article didn?t say just where, the other Michael is critical, sounded like his two daughters will be OK. Drowsy driver crossed over and hit them, he did not survive. B Sent from my TRS80 On May 24, 2021, at 8:07 PM, Michael Marr wrote: ?Well, let me check... yep, still in one piece! I am safely ensconced at home in Wisconsin. Thanks for caring! Do you know where the accident was? I have a stepson in Wyoming (different surname). Mike Sent from my iPhone > On May 24, 2021, at 19:40, Notakitcar wrote: > > ?Just read of a terrible accident in Wyoming involving a Michael Marr. Is > this our Michael Marr? > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-triumphs at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-triumphs at Autox.Team.Net] > On Behalf Of Michael Marr > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 2:25 PM > To: William Beecher ; triumphs at autox.team.net; 'BMCU' > > Subject: Re: [TR] RE: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil > > I would guess that the difference is due to the difference in Imperial pints > (20 oz.) vs. US pints (16 oz.). I f you adjust for this difference, 10 Imp. > > Pints = 6.25 US quarts, which would account for the difference you observed. > > I could confirm this by looking in the manual but it is in the garage and I > am in the middle of something right now. > > Michael Marr > Plainfield, IL > > >> An interesting note: >> The TR2-3 manual calls for 10 pints or 5.7 liters on a refill. I have >> been around the metric block a few times and did the math, 10 pints is >> 5 quarts while 5.7 liters in 6 quarts. I bought 5 quarts of Castrol >> 20/50 (as >> recommended) and a new FRAM CH820PL (pay me now or pay me later) oil >> filter and after starting and running the motor for a couple of >> minutes to fill the filter case, the level does not even touch the >> dipstick. Looks like I am going to need at least another 1.5 quarts >> or 1.4191 liters. > > Your messages not reaching the list? > Check out https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_posting.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=mKxq9JC1o1z__bZJZiiliegjWepe1KJjfWJ6CGcm7D8&e= > > === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register > === https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.vtr.org&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=rMs4KqRZjC2WiXPDh_-6XECEKB1IZwHCefJLb1oqgRg&e= > > === Help keep https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__Team.Net&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=flzsGUxTSvIdxMFiofXAe4zanSET_KkiHXOsNaWiyYY&e= on the air: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=HH7H8Z-t523EtvtNmnWRWZmHjbAhhzCv9KNDKwaUqWc&e= > > === unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net === > Archives at https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=mawbW6JvEx6h2QYzr8KUQe5gT2oHdO1gSriJ-AylWqU&e= === https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_the-2Dlocal&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=nTcppAzsEb0PbC0fOWONdFYUp6AcMcCi0DfcH2IyHh8&e= > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 5/15/2007 > 10:47 AM > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=HH7H8Z-t523EtvtNmnWRWZmHjbAhhzCv9KNDKwaUqWc&e= > Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=gBH8Dg9X9qKcSHdA9_pU4y91G9jGjx6LXZS1GxDD8AU&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=mawbW6JvEx6h2QYzr8KUQe5gT2oHdO1gSriJ-AylWqU&e= > > Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=Ay6Ui9JIoIHsG1ycWktohxE63c73w0tWNO-0hoB8FjI&e= From mmarr at albiontechnical.com Mon May 24 22:19:25 2021 From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr) Date: Tue, 25 May 2021 04:19:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] [Bmcu] TR3 Oil In-Reply-To: References: <45550D81-022B-499F-A6B6-556E4DFA4767@albiontechnical.com>, Message-ID: I actually googled it. It was near Shoshone. Michael and his family were moving from CO to WY. He was driving a pickup, pulling a trailer with another car on it. His wife was following in her car, with their son. She and the son saw the whole thing. The driver of the truck that crossed the centerline to hit Michael was 75. The state patrol thought that he may have fallen asleep. An awful occurrence, for sure. My heart goes out to all involved. Mike Sent from my iPhone > On May 24, 2021, at 22:17, bill beecher wrote: > > ?Article didn?t say just where, the other Michael is critical, sounded like his two daughters will be OK. Drowsy driver crossed over and hit them, he did not survive. > B > > Sent from my TRS80 > > On May 24, 2021, at 8:07 PM, Michael Marr wrote: > > ?Well, let me check... yep, still in one piece! I am safely ensconced at home in Wisconsin. Thanks for caring! > > Do you know where the accident was? I have a stepson in Wyoming (different surname). > > Mike > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On May 24, 2021, at 19:40, Notakitcar wrote: >> >> ?Just read of a terrible accident in Wyoming involving a Michael Marr. Is >> this our Michael Marr? >> Bill >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-triumphs at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-triumphs at Autox.Team.Net] >> On Behalf Of Michael Marr >> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 2:25 PM >> To: William Beecher ; triumphs at autox.team.net; 'BMCU' >> >> Subject: Re: [TR] RE: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil >> >> I would guess that the difference is due to the difference in Imperial pints >> (20 oz.) vs. US pints (16 oz.). I f you adjust for this difference, 10 Imp. >> >> Pints = 6.25 US quarts, which would account for the difference you observed. >> >> I could confirm this by looking in the manual but it is in the garage and I >> am in the middle of something right now. >> >> Michael Marr >> Plainfield, IL >> >> >>> An interesting note: >>> The TR2-3 manual calls for 10 pints or 5.7 liters on a refill. I have >>> been around the metric block a few times and did the math, 10 pints is >>> 5 quarts while 5.7 liters in 6 quarts. I bought 5 quarts of Castrol >>> 20/50 (as >>> recommended) and a new FRAM CH820PL (pay me now or pay me later) oil >>> filter and after starting and running the motor for a couple of >>> minutes to fill the filter case, the level does not even touch the >>> dipstick. Looks like I am going to need at least another 1.5 quarts >>> or 1.4191 liters. >> >> Your messages not reaching the list? >> Check out https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_posting.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=mKxq9JC1o1z__bZJZiiliegjWepe1KJjfWJ6CGcm7D8&e= >> >> === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register >> === https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.vtr.org&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=rMs4KqRZjC2WiXPDh_-6XECEKB1IZwHCefJLb1oqgRg&e= >> >> === Help keep https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__Team.Net&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=flzsGUxTSvIdxMFiofXAe4zanSET_KkiHXOsNaWiyYY&e= on the air: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=HH7H8Z-t523EtvtNmnWRWZmHjbAhhzCv9KNDKwaUqWc&e= >> >> === unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net === >> Archives at https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=mawbW6JvEx6h2QYzr8KUQe5gT2oHdO1gSriJ-AylWqU&e= === https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_the-2Dlocal&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=nTcppAzsEb0PbC0fOWONdFYUp6AcMcCi0DfcH2IyHh8&e= >> >> No virus found in this incoming message. >> Checked by AVG Free Edition. >> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 5/15/2007 >> 10:47 AM >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=HH7H8Z-t523EtvtNmnWRWZmHjbAhhzCv9KNDKwaUqWc&e= >> Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=gBH8Dg9X9qKcSHdA9_pU4y91G9jGjx6LXZS1GxDD8AU&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=mawbW6JvEx6h2QYzr8KUQe5gT2oHdO1gSriJ-AylWqU&e= >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=Ay6Ui9JIoIHsG1ycWktohxE63c73w0tWNO-0hoB8FjI&e= > From notakitcar at yahoo.com Mon May 24 22:31:39 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Mon, 24 May 2021 23:31:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] [Bmcu] TR3 Oil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7ED4E349-2EE0-4D66-82DB-9DD223CD88E5@yahoo.com> Mike, Sad indeed, I ran off the road once when I was much younger. No damage but it scared the snot out of me, now I stop for a nap a the first nod. Good to know you are well, Bill Sent from my TRS80 On May 24, 2021, at 11:19 PM, Michael Marr wrote: ?I actually googled it. It was near Shoshone. Michael and his family were moving from CO to WY. He was driving a pickup, pulling a trailer with another car on it. His wife was following in her car, with their son. She and the son saw the whole thing. The driver of the truck that crossed the centerline to hit Michael was 75. The state patrol thought that he may have fallen asleep. An awful occurrence, for sure. My heart goes out to all involved. Mike Sent from my iPhone > On May 24, 2021, at 22:17, bill beecher wrote: > > ?Article didn?t say just where, the other Michael is critical, sounded like his two daughters will be OK. Drowsy driver crossed over and hit them, he did not survive. > B > > Sent from my TRS80 > > On May 24, 2021, at 8:07 PM, Michael Marr wrote: > > ?Well, let me check... yep, still in one piece! I am safely ensconced at home in Wisconsin. Thanks for caring! > > Do you know where the accident was? I have a stepson in Wyoming (different surname). > > Mike > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On May 24, 2021, at 19:40, Notakitcar wrote: >> >> ?Just read of a terrible accident in Wyoming involving a Michael Marr. Is >> this our Michael Marr? >> Bill >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-triumphs at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-triumphs at Autox.Team.Net] >> On Behalf Of Michael Marr >> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 2:25 PM >> To: William Beecher ; triumphs at autox.team.net; 'BMCU' >> >> Subject: Re: [TR] RE: [Bmcu] TR3 Oil >> >> I would guess that the difference is due to the difference in Imperial pints >> (20 oz.) vs. US pints (16 oz.). I f you adjust for this difference, 10 Imp. >> >> Pints = 6.25 US quarts, which would account for the difference you observed. >> >> I could confirm this by looking in the manual but it is in the garage and I >> am in the middle of something right now. >> >> Michael Marr >> Plainfield, IL >> >> >>> An interesting note: >>> The TR2-3 manual calls for 10 pints or 5.7 liters on a refill. I have >>> been around the metric block a few times and did the math, 10 pints is >>> 5 quarts while 5.7 liters in 6 quarts. I bought 5 quarts of Castrol >>> 20/50 (as >>> recommended) and a new FRAM CH820PL (pay me now or pay me later) oil >>> filter and after starting and running the motor for a couple of >>> minutes to fill the filter case, the level does not even touch the >>> dipstick. Looks like I am going to need at least another 1.5 quarts >>> or 1.4191 liters. >> >> Your messages not reaching the list? >> Check out https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_posting.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=mKxq9JC1o1z__bZJZiiliegjWepe1KJjfWJ6CGcm7D8&e= >> >> === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register >> === https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.vtr.org&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=rMs4KqRZjC2WiXPDh_-6XECEKB1IZwHCefJLb1oqgRg&e= >> >> === Help keep https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__Team.Net&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=flzsGUxTSvIdxMFiofXAe4zanSET_KkiHXOsNaWiyYY&e= on the air: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=HH7H8Z-t523EtvtNmnWRWZmHjbAhhzCv9KNDKwaUqWc&e= >> >> === unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo at autox.team.net === >> Archives at https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=mawbW6JvEx6h2QYzr8KUQe5gT2oHdO1gSriJ-AylWqU&e= === https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_the-2Dlocal&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=nTcppAzsEb0PbC0fOWONdFYUp6AcMcCi0DfcH2IyHh8&e= >> >> No virus found in this incoming message. >> Checked by AVG Free Edition. >> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 5/15/2007 >> 10:47 AM >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=HH7H8Z-t523EtvtNmnWRWZmHjbAhhzCv9KNDKwaUqWc&e= >> Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=gBH8Dg9X9qKcSHdA9_pU4y91G9jGjx6LXZS1GxDD8AU&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=mawbW6JvEx6h2QYzr8KUQe5gT2oHdO1gSriJ-AylWqU&e= >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=kKWlNP5bmGHulcF2czLdWjPkV-xNU4Yc2mrj2SemOvc&s=Ay6Ui9JIoIHsG1ycWktohxE63c73w0tWNO-0hoB8FjI&e= > From mark at bradakis.com Tue May 25 01:32:08 2021 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 25 May 2021 01:32:08 -0600 Subject: [TR] [Bmcu] TR3 Oil In-Reply-To: <7ED4E349-2EE0-4D66-82DB-9DD223CD88E5@yahoo.com> References: <7ED4E349-2EE0-4D66-82DB-9DD223CD88E5@yahoo.com> Message-ID: I fell asleep at the wheel once.? I do not want that to happen again. mjb. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: killer_crash.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 69609 bytes Desc: not available URL: From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue May 25 09:23:18 2021 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 25 May 2021 11:23:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] control head in steering wheel re-fit Message-ID: <9f3730ea-d695-84bb-26f2-17ce7180a019@adelphia.net> I had to remove the control head assembly to tighten and lock tight the steering wheel nut. Ok Now I am going to put it all back together and need to know how to align the traficator so the directionals work and self cancel. Anyone have a photo? Cant find it in my books. Thanks, Bob From notakitcar at yahoo.com Tue May 25 10:11:30 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Tue, 25 May 2021 11:11:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] control head in steering wheel re-fit In-Reply-To: <9f3730ea-d695-84bb-26f2-17ce7180a019@adelphia.net> References: <9f3730ea-d695-84bb-26f2-17ce7180a019@adelphia.net> Message-ID: Bob, If you haven?t disassembled the head itself all should be OK. Tab rests at 12:00. Bill Sent from my TRS80 On May 25, 2021, at 10:23 AM, Bob wrote: ?I had to remove the control head assembly to tighten and lock tight the steering wheel nut. Ok Now I am going to put it all back together and need to know how to align the traficator so the directionals work and self cancel. Anyone have a photo? Cant find it in my books. Thanks, Bob ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com From dave at ranteer.com Tue May 25 13:12:39 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Tue, 25 May 2021 14:12:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] 4th gear Message-ID: <000001d75199$ee36bd90$caa438b0$@ranteer.com> It is my understanding that the gears, and essentially the transmission itself (there are minor differences) are pretty much the same TR4 through TR6 I have overdrive, but would love a longer 4th gear, since 3 with OD is almost the same as 4. Does anyone make one? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Tue May 25 13:20:37 2021 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 25 May 2021 13:20:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] 4th gear In-Reply-To: <000001d75199$ee36bd90$caa438b0$@ranteer.com> References: <000001d75199$ee36bd90$caa438b0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <9280fbb4-aa0b-b449-2cc4-1c75f3cf44c7@bradakis.com> On 5/25/21 1:12 PM, dave wrote: > > It is my understanding that the gears, and essentially the > transmission itself (there are minor differences) are pretty much the > same TR4 through TR6 > > I have overdrive, but would love a longer 4^th gear, since 3 with OD > is almost the same as 4. > > Does anyone make one? > 4th gear is just the mainshaft spinning at the same rate as the engine.? The layshaft and any gears are just going along for the ride. mjb. From tony at tonydrews.com Tue May 25 13:20:43 2021 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 25 May 2021 14:20:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] 4th gear In-Reply-To: <000001d75199$ee36bd90$caa438b0$@ranteer.com> References: <000001d75199$ee36bd90$caa438b0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <72ef66a9-2b38-73d8-433c-a0979d4b28bc@tonydrews.com> 4th gear is direct drive, so there are no ratio choices for that one. Cheers, Tony Drews On 5/25/2021 2:12 PM, dave wrote: > > It is my understanding that the gears, and essentially the > transmission itself (there are minor differences) are pretty much the > same TR4 through TR6 > > I have overdrive, but would love a longer 4^th gear, since 3 with OD > is almost the same as 4. > > Does anyone make one? > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From deruiterville at hotmail.com Tue May 25 14:09:10 2021 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Tue, 25 May 2021 20:09:10 +0000 Subject: [TR] 4th gear In-Reply-To: <000001d75199$ee36bd90$caa438b0$@ranteer.com> References: <000001d75199$ee36bd90$caa438b0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: I think for cruising you might consider upgrading the overdrive to a Healey sungear set which gives 28% overdrive vs 22% on TRs. Sent from my iPhone On May 25, 2021, at 2:13 PM, dave wrote: ? It is my understanding that the gears, and essentially the transmission itself (there are minor differences) are pretty much the same TR4 through TR6 I have overdrive, but would love a longer 4th gear, since 3 with OD is almost the same as 4. Does anyone make one? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk Tue May 25 14:31:38 2021 From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 25 May 2021 21:31:38 +0100 Subject: [TR] 4th gear In-Reply-To: <000001d75199$ee36bd90$caa438b0$@ranteer.com> References: <000001d75199$ee36bd90$caa438b0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <0EDBB653-DFB7-4E81-91A1-9A973D292EAC@Ukpips.org.uk> Dave, it was effectively always thus. Overdrive third and direct fourth were very close on all cars where overdrive was offered as an option. Similarly, there wasn?t a lot to choose between overdrive second and direct third. The main selling point we emphasised was that in heavy traffic, it was a lot easier to flick the switch in and out, rather than keep pumping away on the clutch pedal and cog swapping. In fact, that was one of the key features of the Laycock unit. Too many people look on it mainly as a higher gear above fourth but that was not the original idea. Try storming a mountain pass with its serpentine bends using only second and second overdrive, or one up on the tree, and you then really appreciate its value :) Jonmac Vote for Guy Fawkes! The only man who entered Parliament with honest intentions. > On 25 May 2021, at 20:12, dave wrote: > > It is my understanding that the gears, and essentially the transmission itself (there are minor differences) are pretty much the same TR4 through TR6 > > I have overdrive, but would love a longer 4th gear, since 3 with OD is almost the same as 4. > > Does anyone make one? > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Wed May 26 12:36:59 2021 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Wed, 26 May 2021 14:36:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Front end "play' Message-ID: Hey all ~ I've rebuilt the front suspension and steering on my TR3A including the steering box and all steering components. I have checked fit and function as best as I can but, with the front end on jackstands and grabbing the wheel at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions , I note that there is about 1/4 to 3/8" "play." Is this normal? Should there be zero play in the front wheels? Thanks for any insights.... Dave Friedlander '59 TR3A '74 TR6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From actionsl at att.net Wed May 26 12:37:38 2021 From: actionsl at att.net (Carl Carlson) Date: Wed, 26 May 2021 11:37:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] 4th gear References: <3A9E35DF-E425-4FB1-8605-79D25A5B6106.ref@att.net> Message-ID: <3A9E35DF-E425-4FB1-8605-79D25A5B6106@att.net> Go with Toyota transmission Carl From notakitcar at yahoo.com Wed May 26 13:43:27 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Wed, 26 May 2021 14:43:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Front end "play' In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Is it in the linkage or the wheel bearings? If you can get that movement when you grab the wheel at 12 & 6, then re-check the bearing tightness. If the linkage, and not the steering box, check the bushings in the idler arm. BTDT. Bill TS30800L Sent from my TRS80 On May 26, 2021, at 1:37 PM, David Friedlander wrote: ? Hey all ~ I've rebuilt the front suspension and steering on my TR3A including the steering box and all steering components. I have checked fit and function as best as I can but, with the front end on jackstands and grabbing the wheel at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions , I note that there is about 1/4 to 3/8" "play." Is this normal? Should there be zero play in the front wheels? Thanks for any insights.... Dave Friedlander '59 TR3A '74 TR6 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Wed May 26 14:51:09 2021 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Wed, 26 May 2021 16:51:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Front end "play' In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks, Bill. There is no movement when testing at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions (bearings are new and appropriately tightened). I suppose it could be the linkage but, since all parts are new, I wouldn't know where to start. Not sure how to 'tighten up' the front end linkage. Maybe I've been 'spoiled' by the rack-and-pinion setup I installed in my TR6, some years back. Even the peg on the steering box drop arm is new... Dave On Wed, May 26, 2021 at 3:43 PM bill beecher wrote: > Is it in the linkage or the wheel bearings? If you can get that movement > when you grab the wheel at 12 & 6, then re-check the bearing tightness. > > If the linkage, and not the steering box, check the bushings in the idler > arm. BTDT. > > Bill > TS30800L > > Sent from my TRS80 > > On May 26, 2021, at 1:37 PM, David Friedlander wrote: > > ? > Hey all ~ > > I've rebuilt the front suspension and steering on my TR3A > including the steering box and all steering components. I have > checked fit and function as best as I can but, with the front > end on jackstands and grabbing the wheel at the 3 and 9 > o'clock positions , I note that there is about 1/4 to 3/8" "play." > Is this normal? Should there be zero play in the front wheels? > > Thanks for any insights.... > > Dave Friedlander > '59 TR3A > '74 TR6 > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Wed May 26 15:03:21 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (Notakitcar) Date: Wed, 26 May 2021 16:03:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Front end "play' In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000801d75272$900e13b0$b02a3b10$@yahoo.com> Hi Dave, Look at item #65 in the Moss catalog, described as an Idler Lever. It?s a carrier for the linkage on the passenger side but can we worn without really noticing it. You need to just grab it and see if it moves up or down, might need to disconnect the ling at that point. Additionally, put it back on the ground and have someone sit in the car and move the steering back and forth in the ?Play? spot while you look underneath for movement. bill From: David Friedlander [mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2021 3:51 PM To: bill beecher Cc: TR3 Triumphs ; New England Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Front end "play' Thanks, Bill. There is no movement when testing at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions (bearings are new and appropriately tightened). I suppose it could be the linkage but, since all parts are new, I wouldn't know where to start. Not sure how to 'tighten up' the front end linkage. Maybe I've been 'spoiled' by the rack-and-pinion setup I installed in my TR6, some years back. Even the peg on the steering box drop arm is new... Dave On Wed, May 26, 2021 at 3:43 PM bill beecher > wrote: Is it in the linkage or the wheel bearings? If you can get that movement when you grab the wheel at 12 & 6, then re-check the bearing tightness. If the linkage, and not the steering box, check the bushings in the idler arm. BTDT. Bill TS30800L Sent from my TRS80 On May 26, 2021, at 1:37 PM, David Friedlander > wrote: ? Hey all ~ I've rebuilt the front suspension and steering on my TR3A including the steering box and all steering components. I have checked fit and function as best as I can but, with the front end on jackstands and grabbing the wheel at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions , I note that there is about 1/4 to 3/8" "play." Is this normal? Should there be zero play in the front wheels? Thanks for any insights.... Dave Friedlander '59 TR3A '74 TR6 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed May 26 15:04:35 2021 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 26 May 2021 17:04:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Front end "play' In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5ecf1422-b4bd-1227-180b-1579863463f3@adelphia.net> Dave, The one thing often looked over is the bushings in the arm between the steering box and the idler arm. I replaced the rubber bushings with nylatron (sp) years ago and have zero free play in my 58. Worth a look. Bob On 5/26/21 2:36 PM, David Friedlander wrote: > Hey all ~ > > I've rebuilt the front suspension and steering on my TR3A > including the steering box and all steering components. I have > checked fit and function as best as I can but, with the front > end on jackstands and grabbing the wheel at the 3 and 9 > o'clock positions , I note that there is about 1/4 to 3/8" "play." > Is this normal? Should there be zero play in the front wheels? > > Thanks for any insights.... > > Dave Friedlander > '59 TR3A > '74 TR6 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Wed May 26 15:38:53 2021 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Wed, 26 May 2021 17:38:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] [NET] Front end "play' In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The idler lever (Moss illustration item 65) is tight. No movement. I've installed the Delrin silentbloc bushings in the steering linkage center rod.... No one component seems to have play on its own: It just seems like the assembly moves together. Any possibility the steering box end float is off? Dave On Wed, May 26, 2021 at 5:18 PM Philip Gott wrote: > Dave; > From memory with my TR3B, that seems pretty good. It?s a very subjective > measurement because you are working against the rubber in the opposite tire > (presumably on the ground). The fact that there is zero play at 6 & 12 > indicates that the bearings are indeed installed correctly, provided the > wheel spins freely. The 3 steering will have more play than the rack and > pinion set up. > If you are still concerned, have a look at the idler arm on the passenger > side. That can be a source of free play, a bit more so with the passenger > side wheel. > Regards, > Phil Gott > > Sent from my iPhone > > On May 26, 2021, at 4:52 PM, David Friedlander via NET < > net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote: > > ? > Thanks, Bill. There is no movement when testing at the 6 and 12 o'clock > positions (bearings are new and appropriately tightened). > > I suppose it could be the linkage but, since all parts are new, I wouldn't > know where to start. Not sure how to 'tighten up' the front end linkage. > Maybe I've been 'spoiled' by the rack-and-pinion setup I installed in my > TR6, some years back. Even the peg on the steering box drop arm is new... > > Dave > > On Wed, May 26, 2021 at 3:43 PM bill beecher wrote: > >> Is it in the linkage or the wheel bearings? If you can get that movement >> when you grab the wheel at 12 & 6, then re-check the bearing tightness. >> >> If the linkage, and not the steering box, check the bushings in the idler >> arm. BTDT. >> >> Bill >> TS30800L >> >> Sent from my TRS80 >> >> On May 26, 2021, at 1:37 PM, David Friedlander >> wrote: >> >> ? >> Hey all ~ >> >> I've rebuilt the front suspension and steering on my TR3A >> including the steering box and all steering components. I have >> checked fit and function as best as I can but, with the front >> end on jackstands and grabbing the wheel at the 3 and 9 >> o'clock positions , I note that there is about 1/4 to 3/8" "play." >> Is this normal? Should there be zero play in the front wheels? >> >> Thanks for any insights.... >> >> Dave Friedlander >> '59 TR3A >> '74 TR6 >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com >> > _______________________________________________ > NET mailing list > NET at newenglandtriumphs.org > http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Wed May 26 16:01:49 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Wed, 26 May 2021 17:01:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] [NET] Front end "play' In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2682495F-E1D4-4E9D-B005-8CC81C2833D4@yahoo.com> Always possible, back off the peg a small amount and give the steering wheel a push-pull. Conversely, snug the peg down (not tight but tighter than you would normally allow) and see if your linkage slack is gone. A bit shade tree, but should work as a quick test. Bill Sent from my TRS80 On May 26, 2021, at 4:39 PM, David Friedlander wrote: ? The idler lever (Moss illustration item 65) is tight. No movement. I've installed the Delrin silentbloc bushings in the steering linkage center rod.... No one component seems to have play on its own: It just seems like the assembly moves together. Any possibility the steering box end float is off? Dave On Wed, May 26, 2021 at 5:18 PM Philip Gott wrote: > Dave; > From memory with my TR3B, that seems pretty good. It?s a very subjective measurement because you are working against the rubber in the opposite tire (presumably on the ground). The fact that there is zero play at 6 & 12 indicates that the bearings are indeed installed correctly, provided the wheel spins freely. The 3 steering will have more play than the rack and pinion set up. > If you are still concerned, have a look at the idler arm on the passenger side. That can be a source of free play, a bit more so with the passenger side wheel. > Regards, > Phil Gott > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On May 26, 2021, at 4:52 PM, David Friedlander via NET wrote: >> >> ? >> Thanks, Bill. There is no movement when testing at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions (bearings are new and appropriately tightened). >> >> I suppose it could be the linkage but, since all parts are new, I wouldn't know where to start. Not sure how to 'tighten up' the front end linkage. Maybe I've been 'spoiled' by the rack-and-pinion setup I installed in my TR6, some years back. Even the peg on the steering box drop arm is new... >> >> Dave >> >> On Wed, May 26, 2021 at 3:43 PM bill beecher wrote: >>> Is it in the linkage or the wheel bearings? If you can get that movement when you grab the wheel at 12 & 6, then re-check the bearing tightness. >>> >>> If the linkage, and not the steering box, check the bushings in the idler arm. BTDT. >>> >>> Bill >>> TS30800L >>> >>> Sent from my TRS80 >>> >>> On May 26, 2021, at 1:37 PM, David Friedlander wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> Hey all ~ >>> >>> I've rebuilt the front suspension and steering on my TR3A >>> including the steering box and all steering components. I have >>> checked fit and function as best as I can but, with the front >>> end on jackstands and grabbing the wheel at the 3 and 9 >>> o'clock positions , I note that there is about 1/4 to 3/8" "play." >>> Is this normal? Should there be zero play in the front wheels? >>> >>> Thanks for any insights.... >>> >>> Dave Friedlander >>> '59 TR3A >>> '74 TR6 >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com >> _______________________________________________ >> NET mailing list >> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org >> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Wed May 26 19:10:33 2021 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Wed, 26 May 2021 21:10:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Project Cars and Parts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: You must not be too far from me...but I have a bunch of Spitfire stuff I'm trying to get rid of. Surely somebody needs all this stuff at a reasonable price. On Mon, May 24, 2021, 17:44 Bill Anderson wrote: > I have had these cars for years and have not been able to work on them for > various health and life reasons. My wife says she will have them taken by a > local junkyard should I pass on. I would like to see someone with a love of > these cars wind up with them, not the junkman. If you are interested make > an offer > I live in the North East Georgia foothills. > > Project Car #1 https://goo.gl/photos/81JPZDWwctqcz7Gi7 > Project Car #2 https://goo.gl/photos/yHCRecSrbShwXCVB6 > Parts Car https://goo.gl/photos/8DvV5rCyiFMshPtv9 > Parts https://goo.gl/photos/VxFZWDykyRJ8B2MD9 > Sheet Metal https://goo.gl/photos/LQHAAD1NnAXMePiw7 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Fri May 28 08:37:33 2021 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Fri, 28 May 2021 10:37:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Amp Meter Message-ID: <0aae01d753ce$ffa830e0$fef892a0$@gmail.com> Converting to a 43 amp MGB Lucas alternator rebuilt on my 67 TR4A. Looks very similar if not identical to the one use din the Moss kit. Any recommendations on switching out stock 30 amp gauge to a 60 amp or volt gauge? What have folks used. Like to keep it looking like a stock TR4A as much as possible. All the best to everyone and lets not forget those that lost their lives protecting our great country this weekend. Thanks Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL 61 3A 62 4 (Gone to a new home) 67 4A 75 6 81 8 67 4A (#2 project on way home soon) From notakitcar at yahoo.com Fri May 28 09:11:23 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (Notakitcar) Date: Fri, 28 May 2021 10:11:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Amp Meter In-Reply-To: <0aae01d753ce$ffa830e0$fef892a0$@gmail.com> References: <0aae01d753ce$ffa830e0$fef892a0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <00e501d753d3$b9942e60$2cbc8b20$@yahoo.com> Why not just keep the original in place? Yes, if your battery is stone dead and the alt is putting out 40amps it will peg it, but not for long. Bill -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Henningsen Sent: Friday, May 28, 2021 9:38 AM To: 'TR List' Subject: [TR] Amp Meter Converting to a 43 amp MGB Lucas alternator rebuilt on my 67 TR4A. Looks very similar if not identical to the one use din the Moss kit. Any recommendations on switching out stock 30 amp gauge to a 60 amp or volt gauge? What have folks used. Like to keep it looking like a stock TR4A as much as possible. All the best to everyone and lets not forget those that lost their lives protecting our great country this weekend. Thanks Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL 61 3A 62 4 (Gone to a new home) 67 4A 75 6 81 8 67 4A (#2 project on way home soon) ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com From keithstewart at bell.net Fri May 28 12:25:39 2021 From: keithstewart at bell.net (keithstewart at bell.net) Date: Fri, 28 May 2021 14:25:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Amp Meter In-Reply-To: <0aae01d753ce$ffa830e0$fef892a0$@gmail.com> References: <0aae01d753ce$ffa830e0$fef892a0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <06ed01d753ee$dc70a290$9551e7b0$@bell.net> Jim, I installed the Delco 10SI unit that British Wiring provides in their kit and just kept the stock ammeter in place. Keith Stewart keithstewart at bell.net -----Original Message----- From: Jim Henningsen Sent: May 28, 2021 10:38 AM To: 'TR List' Subject: [TR] Amp Meter Converting to a 43 amp MGB Lucas alternator rebuilt on my 67 TR4A. Looks very similar if not identical to the one use din the Moss kit. Any recommendations on switching out stock 30 amp gauge to a 60 amp or volt gauge? What have folks used. Like to keep it looking like a stock TR4A as much as possible. All the best to everyone and lets not forget those that lost their lives protecting our great country this weekend. Thanks Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL 61 3A 62 4 (Gone to a new home) 67 4A 75 6 81 8 67 4A (#2 project on way home soon) From j_bar_j at hotmail.com Fri May 28 13:06:39 2021 From: j_bar_j at hotmail.com (Joel Justin) Date: Fri, 28 May 2021 19:06:39 +0000 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 126 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Jim, No need to replace the original 30A ammeter just because you have a 43A alternator. Unless you're driving at night in winter while it's raining with your heater fan on high, headlights and wipers on, blasting your stereo while honking you horn at the #!%@ that just cut you off, you'll rarely if ever draw over 30A. And on the rare occasion you do, no harm will come to your ammeter if it pegs for a few minutes. Joel Justin... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri May 28 13:42:49 2021 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net) Date: Fri, 28 May 2021 15:42:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Amp Meter In-Reply-To: <00e501d753d3$b9942e60$2cbc8b20$@yahoo.com> References: <0aae01d753ce$ffa830e0$fef892a0$@gmail.com> <00e501d753d3$b9942e60$2cbc8b20$@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <006001d753f9$a6a767b0$f3f63710$@uprichard.net> Bill is correct: I have 50 amp alternators on both my TR3s and use the original gauges. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Notakitcar Sent: Friday, May 28, 2021 11:11 AM To: 'Jim Henningsen' ; 'TR List' Subject: Re: [TR] Amp Meter Why not just keep the original in place? Yes, if your battery is stone dead and the alt is putting out 40amps it will peg it, but not for long. Bill -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Henningsen Sent: Friday, May 28, 2021 9:38 AM To: 'TR List' Subject: [TR] Amp Meter Converting to a 43 amp MGB Lucas alternator rebuilt on my 67 TR4A. Looks very similar if not identical to the one use din the Moss kit. Any recommendations on switching out stock 30 amp gauge to a 60 amp or volt gauge? What have folks used. Like to keep it looking like a stock TR4A as much as possible. All the best to everyone and lets not forget those that lost their lives protecting our great country this weekend. Thanks Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL 61 3A 62 4 (Gone to a new home) 67 4A 75 6 81 8 67 4A (#2 project on way home soon) ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From tjwakeman at gmail.com Fri May 28 14:05:56 2021 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Fri, 28 May 2021 13:05:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Amp Meter In-Reply-To: <006001d753f9$a6a767b0$f3f63710$@uprichard.net> References: <0aae01d753ce$ffa830e0$fef892a0$@gmail.com> <00e501d753d3$b9942e60$2cbc8b20$@yahoo.com> <006001d753f9$a6a767b0$f3f63710$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: On 5/28/21 12:42 PM, auprichard at uprichard.net wrote: > Bill is correct: I have 50 amp alternators on both my TR3s and use the > original gauges. And I replaced the amp meters in both of my cars with Lucas volt meters. I much prefer a volt meter. You can slowly drain your battery? while the amp meter is sitting around zero. TeriAnn -- Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and Canada 2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write *Because the world beckons and life waits for no one* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Fri May 28 14:14:29 2021 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen) Date: Fri, 28 May 2021 16:14:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Amp Meter In-Reply-To: <006001d753f9$a6a767b0$f3f63710$@uprichard.net> References: <006001d753f9$a6a767b0$f3f63710$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Super. Appreciate the feedback from all and will keep original gauge in! Cheers Jim > On May 28, 2021, at 3:42 PM, auprichard at uprichard.net wrote: > > ?Bill is correct: I have 50 amp alternators on both my TR3s and use the > original gauges. > > Andrew Uprichard > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Notakitcar > Sent: Friday, May 28, 2021 11:11 AM > To: 'Jim Henningsen' ; 'TR List' > > Subject: Re: [TR] Amp Meter > > Why not just keep the original in place? Yes, if your battery is stone dead > and the alt is putting out 40amps it will peg it, but not for long. > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim > Henningsen > Sent: Friday, May 28, 2021 9:38 AM > To: 'TR List' > Subject: [TR] Amp Meter > > Converting to a 43 amp MGB Lucas alternator rebuilt on my 67 TR4A. Looks > very similar if not identical to the one use din the Moss kit. Any > recommendations on switching out stock 30 amp gauge to a 60 amp or volt > gauge? What have folks used. Like to keep it looking like a stock TR4A as > much as possible. All the best to everyone and lets not forget those that > lost their lives protecting our great country this weekend. > > Thanks > Jim Henningsen > Ocala, FL > 61 3A > 62 4 (Gone to a new home) > 67 4A > 75 6 > 81 8 > 67 4A (#2 project on way home soon) > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > From HDRider570 at att.net Fri May 28 16:05:14 2021 From: HDRider570 at att.net (Q) Date: Fri, 28 May 2021 15:05:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] ref: Amp Meter References: Message-ID: You can add a shunt to the existing meter which will make it read 1/2 of the actual amperage.? It is basically a piece of heavy gauge wire cut to the same length as the one inside the gauge and wired between the + and - terminals. Edward Hamer Petaluma CA From davgil at aol.com Sun May 30 09:42:57 2021 From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 15:42:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] 1976 TR6 front caliper References: <1872063918.918973.1622389377416.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1872063918.918973.1622389377416@mail.yahoo.com> Happy Memorial Day weekend and thanks to my fellow veterans.? The right front caliper on my TR6 has seized and I need to replace it.? I will probably order from Moss, but since they are closed for the holiday, I cannot call them to verify that their calipers include the piston (semi-loaded).? Does anyone know for certain?? I want to get it ordered but don't want to get an unloaded caliper and have to wait for a puck.? If anyone has had good luck with a better source, I would appreciate a response regarding that as well.? Thanks for your help.??David Gill1976 TR6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun May 30 09:54:18 2021 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 11:54:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1976 TR6 front caliper In-Reply-To: <1872063918.918973.1622389377416@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1872063918.918973.1622389377416.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1872063918.918973.1622389377416@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Dave, I had a 3 caliper seize a number of years ago and all I had to do was replace the pistons with SS, new seals and clean the bore with 1000 sand paper. Here it is over 20 years later and it is working fine. Parts sourced at TRF. Bob On 5/30/21 11:42 AM, davgil at aol.com wrote: > Happy Memorial Day weekend and thanks to my fellow veterans.? The > right front caliper on my TR6 has seized and I need to replace it.? I > will probably order from Moss, but since they are closed for the > holiday, I cannot call them to verify that their calipers include the > piston (semi-loaded).? Does anyone know for certain?? I want to get it > ordered but don't want to get an unloaded caliper and have to wait for > a puck.? If anyone has had good luck with a better source, I would > appreciate a response regarding that as well.? Thanks for your help. > David Gill > 1976 TR6 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Sun May 30 12:33:22 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 13:33:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1976 TR6 front caliper In-Reply-To: <1872063918.918973.1622389377416@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1872063918.918973.1622389377416.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1872063918.918973.1622389377416@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <004401d75582$4586a380$d093ea80$@ranteer.com> Don?t replace it. especially with moss low quality. Get it rebuilt. Get them both rebuilt. Contact ted Schumacher http://tsimportedautomotive.com/ (419) 384-3022 tedtsimx at bright.net British Parts Northwest has brake calipers: bpnorthwest.com/triumph/tr250-tr6/brakes.html I like them as a vendor From: Triumphs On Behalf Of davgil at aol.com Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2021 10:43 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] 1976 TR6 front caliper Happy Memorial Day weekend and thanks to my fellow veterans. The right front caliper on my TR6 has seized and I need to replace it. I will probably order from Moss, but since they are closed for the holiday, I cannot call them to verify that their calipers include the piston (semi-loaded). Does anyone know for certain? I want to get it ordered but don't want to get an unloaded caliper and have to wait for a puck. If anyone has had good luck with a better source, I would appreciate a response regarding that as well. Thanks for your help. David Gill 1976 TR6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Sun May 30 12:37:48 2021 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 14:37:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1976 TR6 front caliper In-Reply-To: <1872063918.918973.1622389377416@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1872063918.918973.1622389377416.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1872063918.918973.1622389377416@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I was in a time crunch and bought calipers for the Spitfire from Moss. Do yourself a favor and get yours rebuilt with quality parts. On Sun, May 30, 2021, 11:43 wrote: > Happy Memorial Day weekend and thanks to my fellow veterans. The right > front caliper on my TR6 has seized and I need to replace it. I will > probably order from Moss, but since they are closed for the holiday, I > cannot call them to verify that their calipers include the piston > (semi-loaded). Does anyone know for certain? I want to get it ordered but > don't want to get an unloaded caliper and have to wait for a puck. If > anyone has had good luck with a better source, I would appreciate a > response regarding that as well. Thanks for your help. > David Gill > 1976 TR6 > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From HDRider570 at att.net Sun May 30 16:42:07 2021 From: HDRider570 at att.net (Q) Date: Sun, 30 May 2021 15:42:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] 1976 TR6 front caliper References: <41c267e7-0edc-ac63-9b09-b27893ddcd66.ref@att.net> Message-ID: <41c267e7-0edc-ac63-9b09-b27893ddcd66@att.net> Any caliper I ever purchased had all the pistons and seals included.? "Loaded" inmy eperiance has always meant that the caliper comes with a set of brake pads for that one caliper, not an axle set. I too have had many seized calipers and just needed to clean and replace the seals and pistons to get a good one again.? I expect that I have done at least two dozen sets over the years Edward Hamer Petaluma CA From dave1massey at cs.com Sun May 30 18:15:46 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Mon, 31 May 2021 00:15:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] 1976 TR6 front caliper In-Reply-To: References: <1872063918.918973.1622389377416.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1872063918.918973.1622389377416@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <184647045.825978.1622420146385@mail.yahoo.com> What Bob says is true, the caliper bodies themselves are reusable, all you need are new pistons and seals.? However, there are two versions in the TR6 line so make sure you get the right ones.? The 76 will definitely use the later style. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Bob To: davgil at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, May 30, 2021 10:54 am Subject: Re: [TR] 1976 TR6 front caliper Dave, I had a 3 caliper seize a number of years ago and all I had to do was replace the pistons with SS, new seals and clean the bore with 1000 sand paper. Here it is over 20 years later and it is working fine. Parts sourced at TRF. Bob On 5/30/21 11:42 AM, davgil at aol.com wrote: Happy Memorial Day weekend and thanks to my fellow veterans.? The right front caliper on my TR6 has seized and I need to replace it.? I will probably order from Moss, but since they are closed for the holiday, I cannot call them to verify that their calipers include the piston (semi-loaded).? Does anyone know for certain?? I want to get it ordered but don't want to get an unloaded caliper and have to wait for a puck.? If anyone has had good luck with a better source, I would appreciate a response regarding that as well.? Thanks for your help.?? David Gill 1976 TR6 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sun May 30 18:18:49 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Mon, 31 May 2021 00:18:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] 1976 TR6 front caliper In-Reply-To: <004401d75582$4586a380$d093ea80$@ranteer.com> References: <1872063918.918973.1622389377416.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1872063918.918973.1622389377416@mail.yahoo.com> <004401d75582$4586a380$d093ea80$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <250956331.955849.1622420329253@mail.yahoo.com> Or Peter at World Wide.? He did my TR3 calipers with SS pistons.? http://www.nosimport.com/ Dave -----Original Message----- From: dave To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, May 30, 2021 1:33 pm Subject: Re: [TR] 1976 TR6 front caliper Don?t replace it.? especially with moss low quality.? Get it rebuilt.? Get them both rebuilt. ?Contact ted Schumacher http://tsimportedautomotive.com/? (419) 384-3022tedtsimx at bright.net ? ?British Parts Northwest has brake calipers: ?bpnorthwest.com/triumph/tr250-tr6/brakes.html ?I like them as a vendor ?From: Triumphs On Behalf Of davgil at aol.com Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2021 10:43 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] 1976 TR6 front caliper ?Happy Memorial Day weekend and thanks to my fellow veterans.? The right front caliper on my TR6 has seized and I need to replace it.? I will probably order from Moss, but since they are closed for the holiday, I cannot call them to verify that their calipers include the piston (semi-loaded).? Does anyone know for certain?? I want to get it ordered but don't want to get an unloaded caliper and have to wait for a puck.? If anyone has had good luck with a better source, I would appreciate a response regarding that as well.? Thanks for your help.?? David Gill1976 TR6** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Mon May 31 16:32:10 2021 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Mon, 31 May 2021 18:32:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR Parts Update NE Georgia Message-ID: <01e901d7566c$cc4c5410$64e4fc30$@gmail.com> List: A short while ago Bill Anderson posted he had some TR cars and parts that need a new home. I copied his post below. You may need to copy and paste in your browser to get to pics. I bought the 4A project to get it running and find a new home as well as a bunch of parts. Bill and his wife are super nice and they really want to get these parts to TR folks. There are still two project cars (#2 and parts car ) links below. There is an early 61-62 TR4 short bubble hood in good nick that is very rare to find as well as the windshield frame and glass with the uber rare 2 piece stainless steel windscreen trim. Couple of trannies, motors, starters, H6 carb sets and intakes and other bits and two very good complete doors. Please pass onto the Georgia and NC TR folks as these parts need to be rescued. He is offering very fare prices. Thank you Bill and will keep you posted when I get the TR4A engine running. Engine spins and has compression! Will attempt startup this week after I go through the carbs. Jim Henningsen Ocala FL I have had these cars for years and have not been able to work on them for various health and life reasons. My wife says she will have them taken by a local junkyard should I pass on. I would like to see someone with a love of these cars wind up with them, not the junkman. If you are interested make an offer I live in the North East Georgia foothills. Project Car #1 https://goo.gl/photos/81JPZDWwctqcz7Gi7 Project Car #2 https://goo.gl/photos/yHCRecSrbShwXCVB6 Parts Car https://goo.gl/photos/8DvV5rCyiFMshPtv9 Parts https://goo.gl/photos/VxFZWDykyRJ8B2MD9 Sheet Metal https://goo.gl/photos/LQHAAD1NnAXMePiw7