From pdqtr6 at comcast.net Mon Jul 5 13:45:28 2021 From: pdqtr6 at comcast.net (Tom Walling) Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 15:45:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Monocularity Message-ID: <1360078803.137509.1625514329104@connect.xfinity.com> Trying to get the headlight relay kit (Moss p/n 117-515) to work on my TR6. I know I've done something wrong as only one headlight at a time will light-up. When I use low-beam, the left light lights, then high-beam and the right one lights up and the left one goes out. The instructions are not all that clear about what to hook into what, but I know I haven't switched (or mixed) the blue/white and blue/red wires and I have them connected to the bulb wires correctly too. I did replace the headlight "pig tails" with ones from British Wiring. Could they have mixed the blue/red and blue/white wires? I think that may cause this interesting problem, but I'm not sure. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at linneyweb.com Mon Jul 5 13:58:55 2021 From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney) Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 12:58:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Monocularity In-Reply-To: <1360078803.137509.1625514329104@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1360078803.137509.1625514329104@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <2EBF2675-843E-4660-8DC2-0BA2DF791C6A@linneyweb.com> If I recall correctly? One relay operates both low beams. The other operates both high beams. It?s not one relay per headlamp. Hope this helps. -john > On Jul 5, 2021, at 12:45 PM, Tom Walling wrote: > > ? > Trying to get the headlight relay kit (Moss p/n 117-515) to work on my TR6. > > I know I've done something wrong as only one headlight at a time will light-up. When I use low-beam, the left light lights, then high-beam and the right one lights up and the left one goes out. The instructions are not all that clear about what to hook into what, but I know I haven't switched (or mixed) the blue/white and blue/red wires and I have them connected to the bulb wires correctly too. > > I did replace the headlight "pig tails" with ones from British Wiring. Could they have mixed the blue/red and blue/white wires? I think that may cause this interesting problem, but I'm not sure. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john at linneyweb.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From aljlthomson at charter.net Mon Jul 5 14:25:54 2021 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 16:25:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Monocularity In-Reply-To: <2EBF2675-843E-4660-8DC2-0BA2DF791C6A@linneyweb.com> References: <1360078803.137509.1625514329104@connect.xfinity.com> <2EBF2675-843E-4660-8DC2-0BA2DF791C6A@linneyweb.com> Message-ID: <003801d771db$f48173e0$dd845ba0$@charter.net> That is true ? I installed one of the kits on our GT6 and it worked great. Headlight switch no longer gets hot and the lights are brighter. Should have installed on years ago. I assume they included the directions shown on the website. https://mossmotors.com/media/instructions/117-515_inst_web.pdf There is a special note at step 6. Note: The original wires going to the low beams and to the high beams each split so they can feed both sides of the car. You need to connect the wires from the relays with the male bullet connectors upstream from that split. If you don?t, only one side of the car will light. Alex Thomson From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Linney Sent: Monday, July 05, 2021 3:59 PM To: Tom Walling Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; Mailing List NET Subject: Re: [TR] Monocularity If I recall correctly? One relay operates both low beams. The other operates both high beams. It?s not one relay per headlamp. Hope this helps. -john On Jul 5, 2021, at 12:45 PM, Tom Walling wrote: ? Trying to get the headlight relay kit (Moss p/n 117-515) to work on my TR6. I know I've done something wrong as only one headlight at a time will light-up. When I use low-beam, the left light lights, then high-beam and the right one lights up and the left one goes out. The instructions are not all that clear about what to hook into what, but I know I haven't switched (or mixed) the blue/white and blue/red wires and I have them connected to the bulb wires correctly too. I did replace the headlight "pig tails" with ones from British Wiring. Could they have mixed the blue/red and blue/white wires? I think that may cause this interesting problem, but I'm not sure. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john at linneyweb.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertrudolphi at yahoo.com Mon Jul 5 14:37:11 2021 From: robertrudolphi at yahoo.com (robert rudolphi) Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 20:37:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Monocularity In-Reply-To: <1360078803.137509.1625514329104@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1360078803.137509.1625514329104@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <237998592.1783395.1625517431567@mail.yahoo.com> I removed the radiator ductwork as I was having a simular issue and realized I did not have one of the wires correct. See # 6 in the insructions.? https://mossmotors.com/media/instructions/117-515_inst_web.pdf Once wired correctly it is a major improvement. Robert On Monday, July 5, 2021, 03:46:03 PM EDT, Tom Walling wrote: Trying to get the headlight relay kit (Moss p/n 117-515) to work on my TR6.?? ? I know I've done something wrong as only one headlight at a time will light-up. When I use low-beam, the left light lights, then high-beam and the right one lights up and the left one goes out. The instructions are not all that clear about what to hook into what, but I know I haven't switched (or mixed) the blue/white and blue/red wires and I have them connected to the bulb wires correctly too.?? ? I did replace the headlight "pig tails" with ones from British Wiring. Could they have mixed the blue/red and blue/white wires? I think that may cause this interesting problem, but I'm not sure. ? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs??http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/robertrudolphi at yahoo.com From tjwakeman at gmail.com Mon Jul 5 15:49:19 2021 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 14:49:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Monocularity In-Reply-To: <1360078803.137509.1625514329104@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1360078803.137509.1625514329104@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <561cb0af-eb1f-3f78-67d4-92a1b8d43763@gmail.com> On 7/5/21 12:45 PM, Tom Walling wrote: > Trying to get the headlight relay kit (Moss p/n 117-515) to work on my > TR6. > I know I've done something wrong as only one headlight at a time will > light-up. When I use low-beam, the left light lights, then high-beam > and the right one lights up and the left one goes out. The > instructions are not all that clear about what to hook into what, but > I know I haven't switched (or mixed) the blue/white and blue/red wires > and I have them connected to the bulb wires correctly too. > I did replace the headlight "pig tails" with ones from British Wiring. > Could they have mixed the blue/red and blue/white wires? I think that > may cause this interesting problem, but I'm not sure. Not having seen your circuit. There should be a blue/white wire coming from your dimmer switch to the coil of one relay, and a blue red wire coming from your dimmer switch to the coil of the other relay. Both relays should have one relay contact to Battery, via a fuse. The other relay contact of the relay with the blue/white coil wire gets a blue/white wire from each headlamp socket. The other relay with the blue/red coil wire gets the blue/red wire from each of the two light sockets. Light socket black wire to chassis ground. Sounds like you wired one headlamp to one relay and the other headlamp to the other relay. The Lucas wire colour code is your friend. One coil gets blue/white (high beam) from both headlights and the other relay gets Blue/red (low beam) wire from each of the headlamps. And if your wiring kit doesn't come with the correct colour code yell at Moss for sourcing generic junk. TeriAnn -- Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and Canada 2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write *Because the world beckons and life waits for no one* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Mon Jul 5 19:58:11 2021 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 20:58:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Monocularity In-Reply-To: <561cb0af-eb1f-3f78-67d4-92a1b8d43763@gmail.com> References: <1360078803.137509.1625514329104@connect.xfinity.com> <561cb0af-eb1f-3f78-67d4-92a1b8d43763@gmail.com> Message-ID: <09d02a35-aa7b-69f1-2c56-19dfbd8f9d56@tonydrews.com> But then you'll no longer have the dim yellow headlights characteristic of the Lucas system!? I'd note that when my Dad drove up in his TR-6 at nigh.? I'm sure it will be a fantastic upgrade once you get it sorted. Cheers, Tony On 7/5/2021 4:49 PM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote: > On 7/5/21 12:45 PM, Tom Walling wrote: >> Trying to get the headlight relay kit (Moss p/n 117-515) to work on >> my TR6. >> I know I've done something wrong as only one headlight at a time will >> light-up. When I use low-beam, the left light lights, then high-beam >> and the right one lights up and the left one goes out. The >> instructions are not all that clear about what to hook into what, but >> I know I haven't switched (or mixed) the blue/white and blue/red >> wires and I have them connected to the bulb wires correctly too. >> I did replace the headlight "pig tails" with ones from British >> Wiring. Could they have mixed the blue/red and blue/white wires? I >> think that may cause this interesting problem, but I'm not sure. > > > Not having seen your circuit. There should be a blue/white wire coming > from your dimmer switch to the coil of one relay, and a blue red wire > coming from your dimmer switch to the coil of the other relay. Both > relays should have one relay contact to Battery, via a fuse. The other > relay contact of the relay with the blue/white coil wire gets a > blue/white wire from each headlamp socket. The other relay with the > blue/red coil wire gets the blue/red wire from each of the two light > sockets. Light socket black wire to chassis ground. > > Sounds like you wired one headlamp to one relay and the other headlamp > to the other relay. The Lucas wire colour code is your friend. One > coil gets blue/white (high beam) from both headlights and the other > relay gets Blue/red (low beam) wire from each of the headlamps. > > And if your wiring kit doesn't come with the correct colour code yell > at Moss for sourcing generic junk. > > TeriAnn > > -- > > Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and > Canada > 2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write > > *Because the world beckons and life waits for no one* > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 6 05:04:40 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 11:04:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Monocularity In-Reply-To: <1360078803.137509.1625514329104@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1360078803.137509.1625514329104@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <1412954355.1797154.1625569480281@mail.yahoo.com> The first thing to check is verify that your ground connections are good.? One unconnected ground could give you symptoms like these.? The TR6 does not have separate feeds to the right and left side so I doubt is the swapped connection. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Tom Walling To: Mailing List NET ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Jul 5, 2021 2:45 pm Subject: [TR] Monocularity Trying to get the headlight relay kit (Moss p/n 117-515) to work on my TR6. ? I know I've done something wrong as only one headlight at a time will light-up. When I use low-beam, the left light lights, then high-beam and the right one lights up and the left one goes out. The instructions are not all that clear about what to hook into what, but I know I haven't switched (or mixed) the blue/white and blue/red wires and I have them connected to the bulb wires correctly too. ? I did replace the headlight "pig tails" with ones from British Wiring. Could they have mixed the blue/red and blue/white wires? I think that may cause this interesting problem, but I'm not sure. ? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnniedonnelly at gmail.com Tue Jul 6 20:22:49 2021 From: johnniedonnelly at gmail.com (Johnnie Donnelly) Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 19:22:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Flat Towing a TR6 In-Reply-To: References: <20201123025430.BD3E9A0A47@autox.team.net> <29C0B690-2866-4AED-9556-DEDF9CE3726F@hxcore.ol> <000001d6c1cb$6cda8370$468f8a50$@cox.net> Message-ID: Many many moons ago, the oil pump shaft broke rendering the engine useless. Decided to get a tow dolly and pull it 500 miles to home. That was in 1972. The tranny still functioned perfectly 40 years later before being replaced by a HVDA toyota. So there's two issues here; is flat towing really a problem? and .... can a Toyota conversion be flat towed? Johnnie On Mon, Nov 23, 2020 at 9:46 PM Sujit Roy wrote: > That's a great demo. My son asked me how a gearbox worked and I told him > why didnt he ask me a few months earlier. I had a Triumph Stag box apart > and just pit back the top cover > > On Mon, Nov 23, 2020, 11:12 AM wrote: > >> That is really cool. Good show! >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* Triumphs *On Behalf Of *Dean >> *Sent:* Monday, November 23, 2020 10:44 AM >> *To:* Mark J Bradakis ; triumphs at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* Re: [TR] Flat Towing a TR6 >> >> >> >> I built a cut away transmission to show people how a transmission works >> and always showed them how the oil level was below >> >> The main gears and if they don?t turn they don?t bring up the oil. >> >> >> >> Dean Tetterton >> >> >> >> >> >> The black line shows the oil level. By turning the output flange you can >> see gears sitting still and not pulling up the oil. >> >> >> >> >> >> By turning the knob on the clutch disc you can operate the gears. >> >> >> >> >> >> You can also shift all the gears while it is turning. >> >> >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> >> >> *From: *Mark J Bradakis >> *Sent: *Monday, November 23, 2020 11:40 AM >> *To: *triumphs at autox.team.net >> *Subject: *Re: [TR] Flat Towing a TR6 >> >> >> >> On 11/22/20 7:50 PM, dave wrote: >> >> > But if you are flat towing the car, the transmission gears are moving. >> >> >> >> >> >> Actually the gears are NOT moving. Just the mainshaft is turning, in >> >> unlubricated bearings and syncro bushings. >> >> >> >> mjb. >> >> >> >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a58dean at gmail.com >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com >> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/johnniedonnelly at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jul 7 05:37:07 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2021 11:37:07 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Flat Towing a TR6 In-Reply-To: References: <20201123025430.BD3E9A0A47@autox.team.net> <29C0B690-2866-4AED-9556-DEDF9CE3726F@hxcore.ol> <000001d6c1cb$6cda8370$468f8a50$@cox.net> Message-ID: <323646323.1376715.1625657827497@mail.yahoo.com> I flat towed a TR6 50 miles.? Within a year the transmission was making ominous noises of galled mainshaft bushings.? But others have made reports of no issues. Quick question: did your transmission have overdrive?? I have a working theory that transmissions with overdrive survive much better because the moving drive shaft will rotate the planetary gear assembly which is partially submerged in oil.? The rotating planetary gear assembly will distribute oil about the OD case and some, enough, finds its way into the main gearset lubricating the mainshaft bushings.? Non-overdrive transmissions have no such feature and the bushings go dry. I know nothing about the Toyota box but I suspect it is more like the non-OD Triumph unit. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Johnnie Donnelly To: Sujit Roy Cc: Triumphs Sent: Tue, Jul 6, 2021 9:22 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Flat Towing a TR6 Many many moons ago, the oil pump shaft broke rendering the engine useless. Decided to get a tow dolly and pull it 500 miles to home. That was in 1972. The tranny still functioned perfectly 40 years later before being replaced by a HVDA toyota. So there's two issues here; is flat towing really a problem?? ?and .... can a Toyota conversion be flat towed? Johnnie On Mon, Nov 23, 2020 at 9:46 PM Sujit Roy wrote: That's a great demo. My son asked me how a gearbox worked and I told him why didnt he ask me a few months earlier.? I had a Triumph Stag box apart and just pit back the top cover On Mon, Nov 23, 2020, 11:12 AM wrote: That is really cool.? Good show!??From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Dean Sent: Monday, November 23, 2020 10:44 AM To: Mark J Bradakis ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Flat Towing a TR6?I built a cut away transmission to show people how a transmission works ?and always showed them how the oil level was below The main gears and if they don?t turn they don?t bring up the oil.?Dean Tetterton??The black line shows the oil level. By turning the output flange you can see gears sitting still and not pulling up the oil.??By turning the knob on the clutch disc you can operate the gears.??You can also shift all the gears while it is turning. ?Sent from Mail for Windows 10?From: Mark J Bradakis Sent: Monday, November 23, 2020 11:40 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Flat Towing a TR6?On 11/22/20 7:50 PM, dave wrote:> But if you are flat towing the car, the transmission gears are moving.??Actually the gears are NOT moving.? Just the mainshaft is turning, in unlubricated bearings and syncro bushings.?mjb.??** triumphs at autox.team.net **?Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive?Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a58dean at gmail.com?** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/johnniedonnelly at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From HDRider570 at att.net Wed Jul 7 12:17:51 2021 From: HDRider570 at att.net (Q) Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2021 11:17:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Flat Towing a TR6 References: <32a37e8a-5175-7904-7878-ff357175fb4e.ref@att.net> Message-ID: <32a37e8a-5175-7904-7878-ff357175fb4e@att.net> Flat towing a manual transmission is problematic in that the gear sets are all stationery but the but the main-shaft is spinning within the main-shaft cluster.? This is an issue as the way oil is feed to the main-shaft is from the oil being carried and flung off the gears. So the bottom line is yes you can tow short distances at low (City Streets) speeds but prolonged towing particularly on the freeway usually amounts to a lot of damage.? Of course I am sure that there is someone out there who flat towed something or another around the USA and then successfully dragged raced it for 6 NHRA seasons.? YMMV Our policy was to only tow on a drive axle short distances until you could get the car in a safe place to turn it around such as when the car is on a busy freeway. Edward Hamer Former Professional Tow Truck driver among other things. From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed Jul 7 12:57:24 2021 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2021 12:57:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] Flat Towing a TR6 In-Reply-To: <32a37e8a-5175-7904-7878-ff357175fb4e@att.net> References: <32a37e8a-5175-7904-7878-ff357175fb4e.ref@att.net> <32a37e8a-5175-7904-7878-ff357175fb4e@att.net> Message-ID: <4e693822-5b08-3edc-2ea5-475c05f8bf28@porterscustom.com> If a top fill hole, overfill the gearbox another quart.. On 7/7/2021 12:17 PM, Q wrote: > Flat towing a manual transmission is problematic in that the gear sets > are all stationery but the but the main-shaft is spinning within the > main-shaft cluster.? This is an issue as the way oil is feed to the > main-shaft is from the oil being carried and flung off the gears. > > So the bottom line is yes you can tow short distances at low (City > Streets) speeds but prolonged towing particularly on the freeway > usually amounts to a lot of damage.? Of course I am sure that there is > someone out there who flat towed something or another around the USA > and then successfully dragged raced it for 6 NHRA seasons.? YMMV > > Our policy was to only tow on a drive axle short distances until you > could get the car in a safe place to turn it around such as when the > car is on a busy freeway. > > Edward Hamer > > Former Professional Tow Truck driver among other things. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ From triumphstag at gmail.com Mon Jul 12 15:20:32 2021 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2021 14:20:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] seat foam recommendations Message-ID: I want to redo the seat in my Stag. I'm more interested in changing the bit my butt sits on and my back support. The rest I can salvage. I'd like a firm seat that does not sink. I see someone mentions the following: density 1.8, 36lb compression.. Will this work or should I get a higher rated one. If so, what rating should I look for? Regards, Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Mon Jul 12 15:46:36 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (Notakitcar) Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2021 16:46:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] seat foam recommendations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001f01d77767$648cb9c0$2da62d40$@yahoo.com> Sujit, It?s your butt, go to the upholstery shop and try out a few different densities and compression values. You?ll be happier in the end?:) Bill From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy Sent: Monday, July 12, 2021 4:21 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] seat foam recommendations I want to redo the seat in my Stag. I'm more interested in changing the bit my butt sits on and my back support. The rest I can salvage. I'd like a firm seat that does not sink. I see someone mentions the following: density 1.8, 36lb compression.. Will this work or should I get a higher rated one. If so, what rating should I look for? Regards, Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Tue Jul 13 10:01:44 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2021 11:01:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] early TR4 Message-ID: <000f01d77800$6183a6f0$248af4d0$@ranteer.com> Approx. 9600 serial number; its essentially a TR3. The rear end leaks profusely. I understand there is/are seal(s) that need to be replaced; its not the diff cover gasket. BTDT Is there a link somewhere to the process and parts needed? Recommendations on upgrade(s)? Thanks! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jul 13 10:51:16 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2021 16:51:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] early TR4 In-Reply-To: <000f01d77800$6183a6f0$248af4d0$@ranteer.com> References: <000f01d77800$6183a6f0$248af4d0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <1261440874.736562.1626195076018@mail.yahoo.com> Yes, there is a rubber lip seal.? Moss has one 520-090 and I'm sure TRF carries them, too.? It seals up against the flang and odds are really good that the surface upon which the seal rides has a groove worn into it.? The seal will not seal very well against a groove.? Whenever I replace a seal I fit a speedi-sleeve on the riding surface.? In this case it would be Moss P/N 520-500 or equivalent.? They ain't cheap but they work miracles.? I had a TR6 with a pinion seal leak.? A new seal worked OK for a while but the leak returned.? Years later I had the diff out (for whatever reason) so I fitted a speedi-sleeve without replacing the seal and the leak disappeared. Dave -----Original Message----- From: dave To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Jul 13, 2021 11:01 am Subject: [TR] early TR4 Approx. 9600 serial number; its essentially a TR3. ?The rear end leaks profusely.? I understand there is/are seal(s) that need to be replaced; its not the diff cover gasket.? BTDT ?Is there a link somewhere to the process and parts needed? ?Recommendations on upgrade(s)?? ?Thanks!** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cliff_hansen at outlook.com Tue Jul 13 10:54:42 2021 From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2021 16:54:42 +0000 Subject: [TR] early TR4 In-Reply-To: <000f01d77800$6183a6f0$248af4d0$@ranteer.com> References: <000f01d77800$6183a6f0$248af4d0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: Dave, The only other place I can think of to leak is the pinion seal at the front. There?s a chance that the old seal has worn a groove in the pinion flange, which can be remedied by a Speedi-sleeve. When I removed the seal from my 4A IRS?s diff, the seal material was leather and it was leaking terribly. If you are going to change the seal yourself, I would mark the position of the castle nut relative to the pinion input shaft, and reinstall to the same position. The nut sets the preload for the pinion bearings, and assuming your car uses the solid spacer removing and replacing that nut to the same position shouldn?t change the preload. That?s the best I understand it. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: dave Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2021 10:12 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] early TR4 Approx. 9600 serial number; its essentially a TR3. The rear end leaks profusely. I understand there is/are seal(s) that need to be replaced; its not the diff cover gasket. BTDT Is there a link somewhere to the process and parts needed? Recommendations on upgrade(s)? Thanks! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mmarr at albiontechnical.com Tue Jul 13 11:37:32 2021 From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2021 17:37:32 +0000 Subject: [TR] early TR4 In-Reply-To: References: <000f01d77800$6183a6f0$248af4d0$@ranteer.com>, Message-ID: I admit, it?s been a long time since I changed a pinion seal on my 3A, but I?m pretty sure the the pinion position relative to the crown wheel, and it?s preload, are determined by shims behind the pinion head bearing, and another set of shims between the tail bearing and the bearing spacer. Thus, as long as the tail bearing is not disturbed, you would not need to mark the position of the castle but, but simply retorque it to the required 85-100 ft lbs. I must add that I am referring to the 3A?s diff here, but I?m pretty sure the solid axle 4 has the same arrangement. Mike Sent from my iPhone On Jul 13, 2021, at 11:55, Cliff Hansen wrote: ? Dave, The only other place I can think of to leak is the pinion seal at the front. There?s a chance that the old seal has worn a groove in the pinion flange, which can be remedied by a Speedi-sleeve. When I removed the seal from my 4A IRS?s diff, the seal material was leather and it was leaking terribly. If you are going to change the seal yourself, I would mark the position of the castle nut relative to the pinion input shaft, and reinstall to the same position. The nut sets the preload for the pinion bearings, and assuming your car uses the solid spacer removing and replacing that nut to the same position shouldn?t change the preload. That?s the best I understand it. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: dave Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2021 10:12 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] early TR4 Approx. 9600 serial number; its essentially a TR3. The rear end leaks profusely. I understand there is/are seal(s) that need to be replaced; its not the diff cover gasket. BTDT Is there a link somewhere to the process and parts needed? Recommendations on upgrade(s)? Thanks! ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=pitbkZGGPWs41g-1UxZ7JECIi2Ly2CyOgX-mibX8c-k&s=yn-Bu5yE66SItIpAi8rlaHxddPebuU4aiVwANS9Z4w4&e= Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=pitbkZGGPWs41g-1UxZ7JECIi2Ly2CyOgX-mibX8c-k&s=8kAR1olF9ZzWBsogYgDT3jNxkiENYnrP7VmBDb-zSfI&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=pitbkZGGPWs41g-1UxZ7JECIi2Ly2CyOgX-mibX8c-k&s=wbRCAKxFY520q55FnPmSctpeUDWUB6EZnUJ8sY9AmsQ&e= Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=pitbkZGGPWs41g-1UxZ7JECIi2Ly2CyOgX-mibX8c-k&s=BS3p23exPEspQ69jwUnu6lnRRIGJnKzu76Qi-fxg_Og&e= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From adrianjones747 at centurylink.net Tue Jul 13 12:17:27 2021 From: adrianjones747 at centurylink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2021 14:17:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Starting car after storage Message-ID: <006d01d77813$56781120$03683360$@net> Hi folks, I'm about to fire up the TR3 after about a year of storage. Should I put in a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder and leave it overnight before starting? Cheers! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From allen.k.hess at gmail.com Tue Jul 13 12:29:07 2021 From: allen.k.hess at gmail.com (Allen Hess) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2021 14:29:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] early TR4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9F1E4973-83FF-4B02-8FBC-1E34B960F117@gmail.com> That?s correct. An early TR4 would have a solid spacer. Collapsible spacer maybe arrived with IRS. > On Jul 13, 2021, at 1:37 PM, Michael Marr wrote: > > ? I admit, it?s been a long time since I changed a pinion seal on my 3A, but I?m pretty sure the the pinion position relative to the crown wheel, and it?s preload, are determined by shims behind the pinion head bearing, and another set of shims between the tail bearing and the bearing spacer. Thus, as long as the tail bearing is not disturbed, you would not need to mark the position of the castle but, but simply retorque it to the required 85-100 ft lbs. I must add that I am referring to the 3A?s diff here, but I?m pretty sure the solid axle 4 has the same arrangement. > > Mike > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Jul 13, 2021, at 11:55, Cliff Hansen wrote: >>> >> ? >> Dave, >> >> The only other place I can think of to leak is the pinion seal at the front. There?s a chance that the old seal has worn a groove in the pinion flange, which can be remedied by a Speedi-sleeve. >> >> When I removed the seal from my 4A IRS?s diff, the seal material was leather and it was leaking terribly. >> >> If you are going to change the seal yourself, I would mark the position of the castle nut relative to the pinion input shaft, and reinstall to the same position. The nut sets the preload for the pinion bearings, and assuming your car uses the solid spacer removing and replacing that nut to the same position shouldn?t change the preload. That?s the best I understand it. >> >> Cliff >> >> >> Sent from Mail for Windows 10 >> >> From: dave >> Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2021 10:12 AM >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: [TR] early TR4 >> >> Approx. 9600 serial number; its essentially a TR3. >> >> The rear end leaks profusely. I understand there is/are seal(s) that need to be replaced; its not the diff cover gasket. BTDT >> >> Is there a link somewhere to the process and parts needed? >> >> Recommendations on upgrade(s)? >> >> Thanks! >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=pitbkZGGPWs41g-1UxZ7JECIi2Ly2CyOgX-mibX8c-k&s=yn-Bu5yE66SItIpAi8rlaHxddPebuU4aiVwANS9Z4w4&e= >> Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=pitbkZGGPWs41g-1UxZ7JECIi2Ly2CyOgX-mibX8c-k&s=8kAR1olF9ZzWBsogYgDT3jNxkiENYnrP7VmBDb-zSfI&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=pitbkZGGPWs41g-1UxZ7JECIi2Ly2CyOgX-mibX8c-k&s=wbRCAKxFY520q55FnPmSctpeUDWUB6EZnUJ8sY9AmsQ&e= >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=pitbkZGGPWs41g-1UxZ7JECIi2Ly2CyOgX-mibX8c-k&s=BS3p23exPEspQ69jwUnu6lnRRIGJnKzu76Qi-fxg_Og&e= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Tue Jul 13 13:43:36 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2021 14:43:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Starting car after storage In-Reply-To: <006d01d77813$56781120$03683360$@net> References: <006d01d77813$56781120$03683360$@net> Message-ID: <66957DDE-C6B6-4ED8-9C86-D3573CAFA726@yahoo.com> I would just put a shot of oil down each cylinder and crank it for 5-10 seconds. Also add oil to the SU dash pots, then pull the top off the float bowls to clean out any sediment. Bill Sent from my TRS80 On Jul 13, 2021, at 1:36 PM, Adrian Jones wrote: ? Hi folks, I?m about to fire up the TR3 after about a year of storage. Should I put in a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder and leave it overnight before starting? Cheers! ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Tue Jul 13 14:39:57 2021 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2021 16:39:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Starting car after storage In-Reply-To: <006d01d77813$56781120$03683360$@net> References: <006d01d77813$56781120$03683360$@net> Message-ID: <8131A6E7-6C9E-4A5E-BD96-2C591774F7D4@gmail.com> Can?t hurt. I use a little marvel mystery oil. Also recommend a fresh oil change and filter and take the coil lead off and crank engine until oil pressure comes up. Then replace coil lead and start her up. That?s what I do Jim Henningsen Ocala, fl > On Jul 13, 2021, at 2:21 PM, Adrian Jones wrote: > > ? > Hi folks, > I?m about to fire up the TR3 after about a year of storage. > Should I put in a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder and leave it overnight before starting? > Cheers! > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Tue Jul 13 14:51:37 2021 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2021 16:51:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Starting car after storage In-Reply-To: <8131A6E7-6C9E-4A5E-BD96-2C591774F7D4@gmail.com> References: <006d01d77813$56781120$03683360$@net> <8131A6E7-6C9E-4A5E-BD96-2C591774F7D4@gmail.com> Message-ID: ...just pulled a car out of a 3 yr hibernation...had to pull the dist and cam gear to manually spin up the oil pump with a drill . No suction if it has all drained out. ptegler On 7/13/2021 4:39 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote: > Can?t hurt. ?I use a little marvel mystery oil. ?Also recommend a > fresh oil change and filter and take the coil lead off and crank > engine until oil pressure comes up. ?Then replace coil lead and start > her up. That?s what I do > Jim Henningsen > Ocala, fl > > >> On Jul 13, 2021, at 2:21 PM, Adrian Jones >> wrote: >> >> ? >> >> Hi folks, >> >> I?m about to fire up the TR3 after about a year of storage. >> >> Should I put in a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder and leave it >> overnight before starting? >> >> Cheers! >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >> ?http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Jul 13 18:24:52 2021 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2021 00:24:52 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Starting car after storage In-Reply-To: <006d01d77813$56781120$03683360$@net> References: <006d01d77813$56781120$03683360$@net> Message-ID: <1738132460.2188266.1626222292447@mail.yahoo.com> wont hurt anything.i would? Frank?TS41366L On Tuesday, July 13, 2021, 11:31:40 AM PDT, Adrian Jones wrote: Hi folks, I?m about to fire upthe TR3 after about a year of storage. Should I put in a teaspoon ofoil into each cylinder and leave it overnight before starting? Cheers! ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertrudolphi at yahoo.com Wed Jul 14 05:57:47 2021 From: robertrudolphi at yahoo.com (robert rudolphi) Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2021 11:57:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Starting car after storage In-Reply-To: <8131A6E7-6C9E-4A5E-BD96-2C591774F7D4@gmail.com> References: <006d01d77813$56781120$03683360$@net> <8131A6E7-6C9E-4A5E-BD96-2C591774F7D4@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1349102874.4228384.1626263867762@mail.yahoo.com> I always use fogging oil before I put away for a season as well as prior to startup. Spray in in each cylinder as well as under the oil fill cap. Seems to keep everything moving smoothly and rust free. On Tuesday, July 13, 2021, 04:41:19 PM EDT, Jim Henningsen wrote: Can?t hurt. ?I use a little marvel mystery oil. ?Also recommend a fresh oil change and filter and take the coil lead off and crank engine until oil pressure comes up. ?Then replace coil lead and start her up. That?s what I do? Jim Henningsen Ocala, fl > On Jul 13, 2021, at 2:21 PM, Adrian Jones wrote: > > ? Hi folks, I?m about to fire up the TR3 after about a year of storage. Should I put in a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder and leave it overnight before starting? Cheers! ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs ?http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs??http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/robertrudolphi at yahoo.com From dave at ranteer.com Wed Jul 14 07:03:12 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2021 08:03:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Starting car after storage In-Reply-To: <006d01d77813$56781120$03683360$@net> References: <006d01d77813$56781120$03683360$@net> Message-ID: <005201d778b0$9b7c22a0$d27467e0$@ranteer.com> Here is a complete list of what to do with a car that has been dormant for a long time. For you, a teaspoon of oil, kroil, PB Blaster, etc., would be a good idea. Rotate the engine manually before starting. https://www.ranteer.com/davescars/storage From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Adrian Jones Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2021 1:17 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Starting car after storage Hi folks, I'm about to fire up the TR3 after about a year of storage. Should I put in a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder and leave it overnight before starting? Cheers! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mmarr at albiontechnical.com Wed Jul 14 07:11:14 2021 From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr) Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2021 13:11:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] Starting car after storage In-Reply-To: <1349102874.4228384.1626263867762@mail.yahoo.com> References: <006d01d77813$56781120$03683360$@net> <8131A6E7-6C9E-4A5E-BD96-2C591774F7D4@gmail.com>, <1349102874.4228384.1626263867762@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Fogging oil, as in ?Now where did I put that fogging oil after I used it last?? ? Mike Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 14, 2021, at 06:59, robert rudolphi wrote: > > ?I always use fogging oil before I put away for a season as well as prior to startup. Spray in in each cylinder as well as under the oil fill cap. Seems to keep everything moving smoothly and rust free. > > > > > > > On Tuesday, July 13, 2021, 04:41:19 PM EDT, Jim Henningsen wrote: > > > > > > Can?t hurt. I use a little marvel mystery oil. Also recommend a fresh oil change and filter and take the coil lead off and crank engine until oil pressure comes up. Then replace coil lead and start her up. That?s what I do > Jim Henningsen > Ocala, fl > > >> On Jul 13, 2021, at 2:21 PM, Adrian Jones wrote: >> >> ? > > > Hi folks, > > I?m about to fire up the TR3 after about a year of storage. > > Should I put in a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder and leave it overnight before starting? > > Cheers! > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=ZRtJI2UMA_x78xrV_QUazwRLiQIqzX3cK-Ea4oE8HrI&s=gs_XDLhNg7_X5VD7nRGovn6IgyCUuzMXsG-hHFKHD6o&e= > Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=ZRtJI2UMA_x78xrV_QUazwRLiQIqzX3cK-Ea4oE8HrI&s=3ugUqFoa2Mr36BYkY4f6iARcD87b9ebkJbmNTx6OVRQ&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=ZRtJI2UMA_x78xrV_QUazwRLiQIqzX3cK-Ea4oE8HrI&s=7ICrWILRrBgPfEMRUizk96f72foNzPChEOdlbkxY2xA&e= > > Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_trguy75-40gmail.com&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=ZRtJI2UMA_x78xrV_QUazwRLiQIqzX3cK-Ea4oE8HrI&s=zKeTpQxHf3aWXKd9roUyw_APx39vscHd_3Gq1UiRMFE&e= > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=ZRtJI2UMA_x78xrV_QUazwRLiQIqzX3cK-Ea4oE8HrI&s=gs_XDLhNg7_X5VD7nRGovn6IgyCUuzMXsG-hHFKHD6o&e= > Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs-C2&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=ZRtJI2UMA_x78xrV_QUazwRLiQIqzX3cK-Ea4oE8HrI&s=bBkf2dWGiLtU6HCKZwTxWUVq2uxH7TuAdTrN_eNs9Sw&e=? https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=ZRtJI2UMA_x78xrV_QUazwRLiQIqzX3cK-Ea4oE8HrI&s=7ICrWILRrBgPfEMRUizk96f72foNzPChEOdlbkxY2xA&e= > > Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_robertrudolphi-40yahoo.com&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=ZRtJI2UMA_x78xrV_QUazwRLiQIqzX3cK-Ea4oE8HrI&s=HgJYs7aRUsL5t9k71T4kcINJQWeYQOxPAaXkzWbn_mo&e= > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=ZRtJI2UMA_x78xrV_QUazwRLiQIqzX3cK-Ea4oE8HrI&s=gs_XDLhNg7_X5VD7nRGovn6IgyCUuzMXsG-hHFKHD6o&e= > Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=ZRtJI2UMA_x78xrV_QUazwRLiQIqzX3cK-Ea4oE8HrI&s=3ugUqFoa2Mr36BYkY4f6iARcD87b9ebkJbmNTx6OVRQ&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=ZRtJI2UMA_x78xrV_QUazwRLiQIqzX3cK-Ea4oE8HrI&s=7ICrWILRrBgPfEMRUizk96f72foNzPChEOdlbkxY2xA&e= > > Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=ZRtJI2UMA_x78xrV_QUazwRLiQIqzX3cK-Ea4oE8HrI&s=-drXFEsUEr-3Dt9TzlNC3CDMMxZkkBNAfrw1GvKDKk8&e= From italyfound at gmail.com Wed Jul 14 12:27:53 2021 From: italyfound at gmail.com (Alex Manzo) Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2021 14:27:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Car transporters Message-ID: <79052D71-036C-4196-9105-623ACFCE554A@hxcore.ol> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From italyfound at gmail.com Wed Jul 14 12:27:53 2021 From: italyfound at gmail.com (Alex Manzo) Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2021 14:27:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Car transporters Message-ID: <79052D71-036C-4196-9105-623ACFCE554A@hxcore.ol> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sackirby at chinaautogroup.com Wed Jul 14 13:23:15 2021 From: sackirby at chinaautogroup.com (Steve Kirby) Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2021 19:23:15 +0000 Subject: [TR] Car transporters In-Reply-To: <79052D71-036C-4196-9105-623ACFCE554A@hxcore.ol> References: <79052D71-036C-4196-9105-623ACFCE554A@hxcore.ol> Message-ID: <2170b64812eb4349a04328cc4cc6f55d@chinaautogroup.com> Contact ?Reliable Carriers? (the big orange trucks). I have used them several times. Great service. Four cars to be picked up in Maine should not be a problem, with a little lead time. If you friend is insured by Hagerty, Reliable offers a 10% discount. https://reliablecarriers.com/ Steve Kirby President China Auto Group 22831 Avenida Empresa Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA Direct: (949) 261-8208 Fax: (949) 767-5949 Cell: (949) 903-0957 Skype: steve.kirby29 www.chinaautogroup.com From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Alex Manzo Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2021 11:28 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Car transporters Hello all?? Quick question on car transporters. I have a friend who is presently vacationing in Maine. He discovered 4 classics he would like to buy and transport from Maine to the Naples area in Florida. He would like to have this done in an enclosed carrier. The problem he is running into is he cannot locate a transporter located in Maine near the coast. Is anyone aware of a carrier located there that has a proven success record in transport? Thx, Alex Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Wed Jul 14 14:56:20 2021 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net) Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2021 16:56:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Starting car after storage In-Reply-To: References: <006d01d77813$56781120$03683360$@net> <8131A6E7-6C9E-4A5E-BD96-2C591774F7D4@gmail.com> Message-ID: <01ba01d778f2$b3c28f10$1b47ad30$@uprichard.net> This has been a helpful thread. Normally I do frame-off restorations, but I just found a TR3 which had sat since 2010. Apart from spots on the spare tire cover and floor, the car is rust-free and I don?t think it has been restored in the past. So I think I will just get it driving and let someone else decide if they want to drive it or restore it. I put oil in each cylinder yesterday and changed the oil and filter. Today I spun the engine and we have oil pressure. Tomorrow I?ll see if there is a spark and then see if I can get it going. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Paul Tegler Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2021 4:52 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Starting car after storage ...just pulled a car out of a 3 yr hibernation...had to pull the dist and cam gear to manually spin up the oil pump with a drill . No suction if it has all drained out. ptegler On 7/13/2021 4:39 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote: Can?t hurt. I use a little marvel mystery oil. Also recommend a fresh oil change and filter and take the coil lead off and crank engine until oil pressure comes up. Then replace coil lead and start her up. That?s what I do Jim Henningsen Ocala, fl On Jul 13, 2021, at 2:21 PM, Adrian Jones wrote: ? Hi folks, I?m about to fire up the TR3 after about a year of storage. Should I put in a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder and leave it overnight before starting? Cheers! ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From artwmcewen at gmail.com Thu Jul 15 08:48:24 2021 From: artwmcewen at gmail.com (Art McEwen) Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2021 10:48:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate Message-ID: It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? Thanks, Art TS64???LO -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Thu Jul 15 09:25:27 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2021 15:25:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1945207169.3803124.1626362727346@mail.yahoo.com> Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment.? Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Art McEwen To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? Thanks, Art TS64???LO ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From artwmcewen at gmail.com Thu Jul 15 11:54:12 2021 From: artwmcewen at gmail.com (Art McEwen) Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2021 13:54:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate In-Reply-To: <1945207169.3803124.1626362727346@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1945207169.3803124.1626362727346@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks! Art On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: > Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid > adjustment. Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Art McEwen > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am > Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > > It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws > to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it > or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going > "sprong"? > > Thanks, > > Art > TS64???LO > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From artwmcewen at gmail.com Thu Jul 15 14:35:20 2021 From: artwmcewen at gmail.com (Art McEwen) Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2021 16:35:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <38E6BCD6-A351-4084-8A31-C434555B5398@gmail.com> Btw any idea of the torque for the nuts/bolts on the solenoid plate? > On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen wrote: > > ? > Thanks! > > Art > >> On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: >> Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment. Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. >> >> Dave >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Art McEwen >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am >> Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >> >> It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Art >> TS64???LO >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Thu Jul 15 16:28:13 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2021 22:28:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate In-Reply-To: <38E6BCD6-A351-4084-8A31-C434555B5398@gmail.com> References: <38E6BCD6-A351-4084-8A31-C434555B5398@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1711406202.3093293.1626388093534@mail.yahoo.com> Not off hand but it should be listed in the ROM.? Those are 5/16 fasteners so it shouldn't take much.? 10 Lb-Ft or so. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Art McEwen To: DAVID MASSEY Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 3:35 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate Btw any idea of the torque for the nuts/bolts on the solenoid plate? On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen wrote: ?Thanks! Art On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment.? Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Art McEwen To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? Thanks, Art TS64???LO ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From staffel at comcast.net Thu Jul 15 19:08:25 2021 From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel) Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2021 21:08:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Firing up dormant engines Message-ID: All good advise given already! I remove plugs b4 firing up.? am fan of fogging oil, Marvel mystery oil, PB (or ATF). Agree pull coil wire feed to dizzy,? just crank/spin engine for oil pressure.?Reinstall plugs, dizzy coil feed wire, prime carbs & go for it.Little more comlicated on 56 Dodge cast iron polyhead?V8 I'm working on. TR related- 56 Poly. Has STROMBERG 2brrl Carb.? I cleaned the carb & drained fuel tank. Nine years dormant.? Total brake system rebuild. Master cyl went proof after 49 yrs. Didmake 50 years. American Engineering as bad as LBC & BBC SONETIMES!!!!!!!? :)Sherman?65 TR4, 4 Jags 3 V12s, 5 Jensens 440s & Lotus 907s; 14 Americans 1936-2015.Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ghaynestr4 at aol.com Fri Jul 16 12:47:51 2021 From: ghaynestr4 at aol.com (George Haynes) Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2021 18:47:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Engine Mounts References: <1096940070.251623.1626461271008.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1096940070.251623.1626461271008@mail.yahoo.com> Since the engine in my 1965 TR4A is out being rebuilt, it seemed like a good time to replace the front engine mounts. ?Access to the mounting nuts is all but impossible. ?They bolt to the frame nearly obscured by front suspension.?It's a beautiful RATCO frame I installed ten years ago. ?Might be different than a stock frame in this area. Sockets are impossible. ?Dismantling the front suspension would take a lot of time and energy, and may not help.It might be possible to access these (Nyloc) nuts with a seriously modified end wrench, probably with busted knuckles?and lots of cursing involved. ? Modifying the RATCO frame would be a sacrilege! Not gonna happen! Has anyone dealt with this? ?Any suggestions? ?Are you reading this, Tony?I might have to retain the old motor mounts.TIA. George?HaynesCTC55423LO -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Jul 16 13:01:56 2021 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2021 14:01:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Engine Mounts In-Reply-To: <1096940070.251623.1626461271008@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1096940070.251623.1626461271008.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1096940070.251623.1626461271008@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9038da06-590d-77b3-aa2f-c49bb9ce6a80@tonydrews.com> If I'm the "Tony" you're mentioning...? Round style mounts on a stock frame I've not had that issue getting to the frame side of the mount, sorry.? Certainly it's easier to get to with the engine out! - Tony Drews On 7/16/2021 1:47 PM, George Haynes wrote: > Since the engine in my 1965 TR4A is out being rebuilt, it seemed like > a good time to replace the front engine mounts. > Access to the mounting nuts is all but impossible. They bolt to the > frame nearly obscured by front suspension. > It's a beautiful RATCO frame I installed ten years ago. ?Might be > different than a stock frame in this area. > > Sockets are impossible. ?Dismantling the front suspension would take a > lot of time and energy, and may not help. > It might be possible to access these (Nyloc) nuts with a seriously > modified end wrench, probably with busted knuckles > and lots of cursing involved. > > Modifying the RATCO frame would be a sacrilege! Not gonna happen! > > Has anyone dealt with this? ?Any suggestions? ?Are you reading this, Tony? > I might have to retain the old motor mounts. > TIA. > > George Haynes > CTC55423LO > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From artwmcewen at gmail.com Fri Jul 16 13:55:44 2021 From: artwmcewen at gmail.com (Art McEwen) Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2021 15:55:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3 seat sliders Message-ID: A) grease them with white grease or some such to encourage them to move and let them become a magnet for all the dirt and corruption that follows. 2) leave them dry so they stay clean until they rust and no longer move. Is there a 3D option? Cheers, Art Ts64???LO From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jul 16 14:54:45 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2021 20:54:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Tr3 seat sliders In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <684672944.184399.1626468885306@mail.yahoo.com> A dry molybdenum spray may the the trick.? Something like Grainger PN 6KHF6 It drys so it won't catch grit and stuff and will add a slick, protective coat. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Art McEwen To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Jul 16, 2021 2:55 pm Subject: [TR] Tr3 seat sliders A) grease them with white grease or some such to encourage them to move and let them become a magnet for all the dirt and corruption that follows. 2) leave them dry so they stay clean until they rust and no longer move. Is there a 3D option? Cheers, Art Ts64???LO ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jul 16 14:55:30 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2021 20:55:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Tr3 seat sliders In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1237274030.175829.1626468930234@mail.yahoo.com> BTW, It smells funky until it drys so use it out doors away from the wife. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Art McEwen To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Jul 16, 2021 2:55 pm Subject: [TR] Tr3 seat sliders A) grease them with white grease or some such to encourage them to move and let them become a magnet for all the dirt and corruption that follows. 2) leave them dry so they stay clean until they rust and no longer move. Is there a 3D option? Cheers, Art Ts64???LO ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri Jul 16 15:01:59 2021 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net) Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2021 17:01:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 spare tire pan Message-ID: <000001d77a85$d2608960$77219c20$@uprichard.net> Listers: I recently came across a really nice '58 overdrive TR3A which appeared solid in every respect until I opened the spare tire cover - see pic. The whole compartment was full of mouse nests (and dead mice) - I had cleared some before I decided a picture might be indicated. The spare tire floor is roached. This is a car I would like to get running and then turn over to someone on this or another list. I don't want to spend a lot on it, but then again I am not about to take shortcuts on a car which is otherwise rust-free. By chance, does anyone have a spare tire pan, either new or in good used condition? As an aside, I was so excited to get the car running, only to find the clutch is not working. I am guessing a broken taper pin. As my wife always reminds me - this is the joy of owning a Triumph. Sure... Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Rodents !!.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3540142 bytes Desc: not available URL: From polyspec at aol.com Fri Jul 16 15:40:57 2021 From: polyspec at aol.com (Robert Childrez) Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2021 21:40:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 157 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1712744330.639473.1626471657232@mail.yahoo.com> Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS On Friday, July 16, 2021, 5:02 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to ??? triumphs at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??? triumphs-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ??? triumphs-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." Today's Topics: ? 1. Engine Mounts (George Haynes) ? 2. Re: Engine Mounts (Tony Drews) ? 3. Tr3 seat sliders (Art McEwen) ? 4. Re: Tr3 seat sliders (DAVID MASSEY) ? 5. Re: Tr3 seat sliders (DAVID MASSEY) ? 6. TR3 spare tire pan (auprichard at uprichard.net) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2021 18:47:51 +0000 (UTC) From: George Haynes To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: [TR] Engine Mounts Message-ID: <1096940070.251623.1626461271008 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Since the engine in my 1965 TR4A is out being rebuilt, it seemed like a good time to replace the front engine mounts. ?Access to the mounting nuts is all but impossible. ?They bolt to the frame nearly obscured by front suspension.?It's a beautiful RATCO frame I installed ten years ago. ?Might be different than a stock frame in this area. Sockets are impossible. ?Dismantling the front suspension would take a lot of time and energy, and may not help.It might be possible to access these (Nyloc) nuts with a seriously modified end wrench, probably with busted knuckles?and lots of cursing involved. ? Modifying the RATCO frame would be a sacrilege! Not gonna happen! Has anyone dealt with this? ?Any suggestions? ?Are you reading this, Tony?I might have to retain the old motor mounts.TIA. George?HaynesCTC55423LO -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2021 14:01:56 -0500 From: Tony Drews To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Engine Mounts Message-ID: <9038da06-590d-77b3-aa2f-c49bb9ce6a80 at tonydrews.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" If I'm the "Tony" you're mentioning...? Round style mounts on a stock frame I've not had that issue getting to the frame side of the mount, sorry.? Certainly it's easier to get to with the engine out! - Tony Drews On 7/16/2021 1:47 PM, George Haynes wrote: > Since the engine in my 1965 TR4A is out being rebuilt, it seemed like > a good time to replace the front engine mounts. > Access to the mounting nuts is all but impossible. They bolt to the > frame nearly obscured by front suspension. > It's a beautiful RATCO frame I installed ten years ago. ?Might be > different than a stock frame in this area. > > Sockets are impossible. ?Dismantling the front suspension would take a > lot of time and energy, and may not help. > It might be possible to access these (Nyloc) nuts with a seriously > modified end wrench, probably with busted knuckles > and lots of cursing involved. > > Modifying the RATCO frame would be a sacrilege! Not gonna happen! > > Has anyone dealt with this? ?Any suggestions? ?Are you reading this, Tony? > I might have to retain the old motor mounts. > TIA. > > George Haynes > CTC55423LO > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2021 15:55:44 -0400 From: Art McEwen To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Tr3 seat sliders Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii A) grease them with white grease or some such to encourage them to move and let them become a magnet for all the dirt and corruption that follows. 2) leave them dry so they stay clean until they rust and no longer move. Is there a 3D option? Cheers, Art Ts64???LO ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2021 20:54:45 +0000 (UTC) From: DAVID MASSEY To: "artwmcewen at gmail.com" , ??? "triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [TR] Tr3 seat sliders Message-ID: <684672944.184399.1626468885306 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" A dry molybdenum spray may the the trick.? Something like Grainger PN? 6KHF6 It drys so it won't catch grit and stuff and will add a slick, protective coat. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Art McEwen To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Jul 16, 2021 2:55 pm Subject: [TR] Tr3 seat sliders A) grease them with white grease or some such to encourage them to move and let them become a magnet for all the dirt and corruption that follows. 2) leave them dry so they stay clean until they rust and no longer move. Is there a 3D option? Cheers, Art Ts64???LO ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2021 20:55:30 +0000 (UTC) From: DAVID MASSEY To: "artwmcewen at gmail.com" , ??? "triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [TR] Tr3 seat sliders Message-ID: <1237274030.175829.1626468930234 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" BTW, It smells funky until it drys so use it out doors away from the wife. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Art McEwen To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Jul 16, 2021 2:55 pm Subject: [TR] Tr3 seat sliders A) grease them with white grease or some such to encourage them to move and let them become a magnet for all the dirt and corruption that follows. 2) leave them dry so they stay clean until they rust and no longer move. Is there a 3D option? Cheers, Art Ts64???LO ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2021 17:01:59 -0400 From: To: Subject: [TR] TR3 spare tire pan Message-ID: <000001d77a85$d2608960$77219c20$@uprichard.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Listers: I recently came across a really nice '58 overdrive TR3A which appeared solid in every respect until I opened the spare tire cover - see pic. The whole compartment was full of mouse nests (and dead mice) - I had cleared some before I decided a picture might be indicated. The spare tire floor is roached. This is a car I would like to get running and then turn over to someone on this or another list.? I don't want to spend a lot on it, but then again I am not about to take shortcuts on a car which is otherwise rust-free. By chance, does anyone have a spare tire pan, either new or in good used condition? As an aside, I was so excited to get the car running, only to find the clutch is not working.? I am guessing a broken taper pin. As my wife always reminds me - this is the joy of owning a Triumph. Sure... Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Rodents !!.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3540142 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs ------------------------------ End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 157 ***************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Fri Jul 16 16:56:37 2021 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2021 15:56:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR7 salvage in San Diego Message-ID: https://www.copart.com/lot/45637131/salvage-1980-triumph-car-all-models-ca-san-diego -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From artwmcewen at gmail.com Sat Jul 17 12:23:49 2021 From: artwmcewen at gmail.com (Art McEwen) Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 14:23:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8EB42F8A-94FA-43BC-8C0D-A233C78A9385@gmail.com> Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the overdrive. :(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re still seated where they were. I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. Thinking of taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. > On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen wrote: > > ? > Thanks! > > Art > >> On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: >> Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment. Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. >> >> Dave >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Art McEwen >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am >> Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >> >> It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Art >> TS64???LO >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Sat Jul 17 13:35:37 2021 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 12:35:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate In-Reply-To: <8EB42F8A-94FA-43BC-8C0D-A233C78A9385@gmail.com> References: <8EB42F8A-94FA-43BC-8C0D-A233C78A9385@gmail.com> Message-ID: <001b01d77b42$ec0864b0$c4192e10$@net> Before you do anything else, do a load test on the battery. Even if it is producing 12 volts it may not be producing the 20 amps needed to engage the OD. Bob From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2021 11:24 AM To: DAVID MASSEY Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the overdrive. :(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re still seated where they were. I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. Thinking of taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen wrote: ? Thanks! Art On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment. Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Art McEwen To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? Thanks, Art TS64???LO ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From artwmcewen at gmail.com Sat Jul 17 13:44:43 2021 From: artwmcewen at gmail.com (Art McEwen) Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 15:44:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate In-Reply-To: <001b01d77b42$ec0864b0$c4192e10$@net> References: <001b01d77b42$ec0864b0$c4192e10$@net> Message-ID: <110594F3-8CE4-4DE9-BF70-79FB58AFEE2A@gmail.com> Hi Bob, solenoid itself is operating fine but o/d is not engaging (running in 2nd gear on jacks). Pretty sure it?s not the adjustment as I?ve lined it up with the hole on the far side (and a little either side). Won?t engage when operated by hand either. > On Jul 17, 2021, at 3:35 PM, Kinderlehrer wrote: > > ? > Before you do anything else, do a load test on the battery. Even if it is producing 12 volts it may not be producing the 20 amps needed to engage the OD. > Bob > > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen > Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2021 11:24 AM > To: DAVID MASSEY > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > > Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the overdrive. :(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re still seated where they were. > > I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. Thinking of taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. > > > On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen wrote: > > ? > Thanks! > > Art > > On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: > Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment. Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Art McEwen > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am > Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > > It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? > > Thanks, > > Art > TS64???LO > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jul 17 18:29:17 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2021 00:29:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR7 salvage in San Diego In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1668072844.96869.1626568157579@mail.yahoo.com> Oooo.? Engine fire.? Still, it looks to be in good shape otherwise.? If someone was looking for a ground-up project this might not be a bad start. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Sujit Roy To: Triumphs ; TTSCC at googlegroups.com Sent: Fri, Jul 16, 2021 5:56 pm Subject: [TR] TR7 salvage in San Diego https://www.copart.com/lot/45637131/salvage-1980-triumph-car-all-models-ca-san-diego -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From deruiterville at hotmail.com Sat Jul 17 18:31:59 2021 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2021 00:31:59 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate In-Reply-To: <110594F3-8CE4-4DE9-BF70-79FB58AFEE2A@gmail.com> References: <001b01d77b42$ec0864b0$c4192e10$@net>, <110594F3-8CE4-4DE9-BF70-79FB58AFEE2A@gmail.com> Message-ID: Hi Art I may have missed all the discussion but you really need to get the operating pressure if the overdrive to help diagnose, especially since you see the solenoid working. Jay Holekamp makes a very nice gauge for this http://www.geocities.ws/jholekamp/ Cheers Randy Sent from my iPhone On Jul 17, 2021, at 3:47 PM, Art McEwen wrote: ? Hi Bob, solenoid itself is operating fine but o/d is not engaging (running in 2nd gear on jacks). Pretty sure it?s not the adjustment as I?ve lined it up with the hole on the far side (and a little either side). Won?t engage when operated by hand either. On Jul 17, 2021, at 3:35 PM, Kinderlehrer wrote: ? Before you do anything else, do a load test on the battery. Even if it is producing 12 volts it may not be producing the 20 amps needed to engage the OD. Bob From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2021 11:24 AM To: DAVID MASSEY Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the overdrive. :(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re still seated where they were. I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. Thinking of taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen > wrote: ? Thanks! Art On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY > wrote: Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment. Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Art McEwen > To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? Thanks, Art TS64???LO ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jul 17 18:37:29 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2021 00:37:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate In-Reply-To: <110594F3-8CE4-4DE9-BF70-79FB58AFEE2A@gmail.com> References: <001b01d77b42$ec0864b0$c4192e10$@net> <110594F3-8CE4-4DE9-BF70-79FB58AFEE2A@gmail.com> Message-ID: <373655020.95850.1626568649347@mail.yahoo.com> With no load on the wheels the engine speed will not change but the speedo will jump up.? This can be misleading if you don't know what to watch. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Art McEwen To: Kinderlehrer Cc: DAVID MASSEY ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Jul 17, 2021 2:44 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate Hi Bob, solenoid itself is operating fine but o/d is not engaging (running in 2nd gear on jacks). ?Pretty sure it?s not the adjustment as I?ve lined it up with the hole on the far side (and a little either side). ?Won?t engage when operated by hand either. On Jul 17, 2021, at 3:35 PM, Kinderlehrer wrote: ? #yiv6808487530 #yiv6808487530 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv6808487530 #yiv6808487530 p.yiv6808487530MsoNormal, #yiv6808487530 li.yiv6808487530MsoNormal, #yiv6808487530 div.yiv6808487530MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv6808487530 a:link, #yiv6808487530 span.yiv6808487530MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6808487530 a:visited, #yiv6808487530 span.yiv6808487530MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6808487530 p.yiv6808487530MsoAcetate, #yiv6808487530 li.yiv6808487530MsoAcetate, #yiv6808487530 div.yiv6808487530MsoAcetate {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:8.0pt;}#yiv6808487530 span.yiv6808487530EmailStyle17 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv6808487530 span.yiv6808487530BalloonTextChar {}#yiv6808487530 .yiv6808487530MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv6808487530 div.yiv6808487530WordSection1 {}#yiv6808487530 Before you do anything else, do a load test on the battery. Even if it is producing 12 volts it may not be producing the 20 amps needed to engage the OD. Bob ?From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2021 11:24 AM To: DAVID MASSEY Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate ?Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the overdrive. ?:(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re still seated where they were. ?I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. ?Thinking of taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen wrote: ?Thanks!Art ?On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment.? Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. ?Dave ? ?-----Original Message----- From: Art McEwen To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plateIt's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? ?Thanks, ?Art TS64???LO ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Jul 17 18:44:04 2021 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 20:44:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <90012BB3-B6D5-4ED8-A44B-390E81F3F732@fuse.net> I agree with you Randy, he needs to get a pressure gauge and see if it?s building pressure. If he sees pressure then maybe when the lever on the solenoid was loose, he inadvertently moved tha actuating lever enough to let the metering valve on the opposite end drop down so now the valve isn?t turning the overdrive on and off? It?s easy to do, ask me how I know. Dave Connitt Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 17, 2021, at 8:32 PM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter wrote: > > ? Hi Art > > I may have missed all the discussion but you really need to get the operating pressure if the overdrive to help diagnose, especially since you see the solenoid working. > > Jay Holekamp makes a very nice gauge for this > > http://www.geocities.ws/jholekamp/ > > Cheers > Randy > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Jul 17, 2021, at 3:47 PM, Art McEwen wrote: >>> >> ? >> Hi Bob, solenoid itself is operating fine but o/d is not engaging (running in 2nd gear on jacks). Pretty sure it?s not the adjustment as I?ve lined it up with the hole on the far side (and a little either side). Won?t engage when operated by hand either. >> >>> On Jul 17, 2021, at 3:35 PM, Kinderlehrer wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> Before you do anything else, do a load test on the battery. Even if it is producing 12 volts it may not be producing the 20 amps needed to engage the OD. >>> Bob >>> >>> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen >>> Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2021 11:24 AM >>> To: DAVID MASSEY >>> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net >>> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >>> >>> Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the overdrive. :(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re still seated where they were. >>> >>> I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. Thinking of taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. >>> >>> >>> On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> Thanks! >>> >>> Art >>> >>> On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: >>> Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment. Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. >>> >>> Dave >>> >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Art McEwen >>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >>> Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am >>> Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >>> >>> It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Art >>> TS64???LO >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From artwmcewen at gmail.com Sat Jul 17 19:17:45 2021 From: artwmcewen at gmail.com (Art McEwen) Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 21:17:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate In-Reply-To: <373655020.95850.1626568649347@mail.yahoo.com> References: <373655020.95850.1626568649347@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <743DABE4-C3F0-45F5-9114-4435B9009356@gmail.com> Yeah that?s what I?m thinking, however before the surgery there was a definite distinction when it engaged and the wheels turned faster. Will road test it before panicking. > On Jul 17, 2021, at 8:37 PM, DAVID MASSEY wrote: > > ? > With no load on the wheels the engine speed will not change but the speedo will jump up. This can be misleading if you don't know what to watch. > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Art McEwen > To: Kinderlehrer > Cc: DAVID MASSEY ; triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Jul 17, 2021 2:44 pm > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > > Hi Bob, solenoid itself is operating fine but o/d is not engaging (running in 2nd gear on jacks). Pretty sure it?s not the adjustment as I?ve lined it up with the hole on the far side (and a little either side). Won?t engage when operated by hand either. > >>> On Jul 17, 2021, at 3:35 PM, Kinderlehrer wrote: >>> >> ? > > Before you do anything else, do a load test on the battery. Even if it is producing 12 volts it may not be producing the 20 amps needed to engage the OD. > Bob > > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen > Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2021 11:24 AM > To: DAVID MASSEY > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > > Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the overdrive. :(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re still seated where they were. > > I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. Thinking of taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. > > > On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen wrote: > ? > Thanks! > Art > > On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: > Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment. Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. > > Dave > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Art McEwen > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am > Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? > > Thanks, > > Art > TS64???LO > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sat Jul 17 19:18:42 2021 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (EDWARD WOODS) Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 21:18:42 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate In-Reply-To: <001b01d77b42$ec0864b0$c4192e10$@net> References: <8EB42F8A-94FA-43BC-8C0D-A233C78A9385@gmail.com> <001b01d77b42$ec0864b0$c4192e10$@net> Message-ID: <1517129293.268042.1626571123157@connect.xfinity.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sat Jul 17 19:20:59 2021 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (EDWARD WOODS) Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 21:20:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate In-Reply-To: <110594F3-8CE4-4DE9-BF70-79FB58AFEE2A@gmail.com> References: <001b01d77b42$ec0864b0$c4192e10$@net> <110594F3-8CE4-4DE9-BF70-79FB58AFEE2A@gmail.com> Message-ID: <447776436.268044.1626571259477@connect.xfinity.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From artwmcewen at gmail.com Sat Jul 17 19:24:42 2021 From: artwmcewen at gmail.com (Art McEwen) Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 21:24:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate In-Reply-To: <1517129293.268042.1626571123157@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1517129293.268042.1626571123157@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <5BE5F607-B0A3-4475-B43F-E646A6648349@gmail.com> There?s nothing wrong with the solenoid. It operates just fine. I removed and replaced the solenoid plate to deal with a leak and now the solenoid doesn?t engage the o/d anymore while the car is running on jacks. I was hoping to avoid a half assembled road test. > On Jul 17, 2021, at 9:18 PM, EDWARD WOODS wrote: > > ? > A pressure test with a gauge from Jay Holekamp is a great idea. While your waiting for its arrival, loosen the clamping bolt and take the car for a ride. Reach across the transmission and operate the lever manually (the one you put the 3/16? drill into when you adjust the solenoid). If the overdrive kicks in, you have a solenoid or solenoid adjustment problem. The overdrives O.K. Better still have a passenger operate the lever, so that you can concentrate on your driving. And watch out for that spinning prop shaft. Loose clothing not allowed. > > By the way, if you have a functioning ammeter and the solenoid is connected on its load side, you can observe the operation of the solenoid on the meter. > > Ed Woods >> On 07/17/2021 3:35 PM Kinderlehrer wrote: >> >> >> Before you do anything else, do a load test on the battery. Even if it is producing 12 volts it may not be producing the 20 amps needed to engage the OD. >> >> Bob >> >> >> >> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen >> Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2021 11:24 AM >> To: DAVID MASSEY >> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >> >> >> >> Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the overdrive. :(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re still seated where they were. >> >> >> >> I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. Thinking of taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. >> >> >> >> >> On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen wrote: >> >> >> >> Thanks! >> >> Art >> >> >> >> On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: >> >> Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment. Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. >> >> >> >> Dave >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Art McEwen >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am >> Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >> >> It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? >> >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> >> >> Art >> >> TS64???LO >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Sat Jul 17 19:40:59 2021 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 21:40:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate In-Reply-To: <5BE5F607-B0A3-4475-B43F-E646A6648349@gmail.com> References: <1517129293.268042.1626571123157@connect.xfinity.com> <5BE5F607-B0A3-4475-B43F-E646A6648349@gmail.com> Message-ID: it's a ~20 amp to engage, then when the core bottoms out it switches to a 5-8 amp holding coil to keep it in place. ptegler On 7/17/2021 9:24 PM, Art McEwen wrote: > There?s nothing wrong with the solenoid. ?It operates just fine. > > I removed and replaced the solenoid plate to deal with a leak and now > the solenoid doesn?t engage the o/d anymore while the car is running > on jacks. ? I was hoping to avoid a half assembled road test. > >> On Jul 17, 2021, at 9:18 PM, EDWARD WOODS wrote: >> >> ? >> A pressure test with a gauge from Jay Holekamp is a great idea. While >> your waiting for its arrival, loosen the clamping bolt and take the >> car for a ride. Reach across the transmission and operate the lever >> manually (the one you put the 3/16? drill into when you adjust the >> solenoid). If the overdrive kicks in, you have a solenoid or solenoid >> adjustment problem. The overdrives O.K. Better still have a passenger >> operate the lever, so that you can concentrate on your driving. And >> watch out for that spinning prop shaft. Loose clothing not allowed. >> By the way, if you have a functioning ammeter and the solenoid is >> connected on its load side, you can observe the operation of the >> solenoid on the meter. >> Ed Woods >>> On 07/17/2021 3:35 PM Kinderlehrer wrote: >>> >>> Before you do anything else, do a load test on the battery. Even if >>> it is producing 12 volts it may not be producing the 20 amps needed >>> to engage the OD. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> *From:*Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf >>> Of *Art McEwen >>> *Sent:* Saturday, July 17, 2021 11:24 AM >>> *To:* DAVID MASSEY >>> *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net >>> *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >>> >>> Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got >>> the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the >>> overdrive. ?:(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re >>> still seated where they were. >>> >>> I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I >>> tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. ?Thinking >>> of taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. >>> >>> >>> >>> On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen >> > wrote: >>> >>> Thanks! >>> >>> Art >>> >>> On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY >> > wrote: >>> >>> Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your >>> solenoid adjustment.? Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty >>> simple. >>> >>> Dave >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Art McEwen >> > >>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >>> Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am >>> Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >>> >>> It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen >>> the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the >>> plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove >>> entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Art >>> >>> TS64???LO >>> >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >>> http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com >>> >>> >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >>> http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Sat Jul 17 19:52:38 2021 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 21:52:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate In-Reply-To: <110594F3-8CE4-4DE9-BF70-79FB58AFEE2A@gmail.com> References: <001b01d77b42$ec0864b0$c4192e10$@net> <110594F3-8CE4-4DE9-BF70-79FB58AFEE2A@gmail.com> Message-ID: put it third or fourth to get some speed (IE: pressure built up) to that output shaft spinning the eccentric pump lobe. A 200-300 rpm is barely enough to maintain proper pressure. ptegler On 7/17/2021 3:44 PM, Art McEwen wrote: > Hi Bob, solenoid itself is operating fine but o/d is not engaging > (running in 2nd gear on jacks). ?Pretty sure it?s not the adjustment > as I?ve lined it up with the hole on the far side (and a little either > side). ?Won?t engage when operated by hand either. > >> On Jul 17, 2021, at 3:35 PM, Kinderlehrer >> wrote: >> >> ? >> >> Before you do anything else, do a load test on the battery. Even if >> it is producing 12 volts it may not be producing the 20 amps needed >> to engage the OD. >> >> Bob >> >> *From:*Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf >> Of *Art McEwen >> *Sent:* Saturday, July 17, 2021 11:24 AM >> *To:* DAVID MASSEY >> *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >> >> Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got >> the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the >> overdrive. ?:(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re >> still seated where they were. >> >> I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I >> tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. ?Thinking of >> taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. >> >> >> >> On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen > > wrote: >> >> ? >> >> Thanks! >> >> Art >> >> On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY > > wrote: >> >> Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your >> solenoid adjustment.? Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty >> simple. >> >> Dave >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Art McEwen > > >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am >> Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >> >> It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen >> the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the >> plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove >> entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Art >> >> TS64???LO >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com >> >> > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jul 18 06:31:21 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2021 12:31:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate In-Reply-To: <1517129293.268042.1626571123157@connect.xfinity.com> References: <8EB42F8A-94FA-43BC-8C0D-A233C78A9385@gmail.com> <001b01d77b42$ec0864b0$c4192e10$@net> <1517129293.268042.1626571123157@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <1676143611.132465.1626611481894@mail.yahoo.com> That reminds me, using the 3/16 drill bit technique (as detailed in the repair manual) to adjust the solenoid may or may not work.? Due to wear and manufacturing tolerances it is not uncommon that the adjustment needs to be deeper than what this method provides.? I found that I needed to go about 1/10th inch (2mm) beyond that to get reliable operation. I don't remember if this works with the engine not running but if you manually operate the lever you can feel where it engages the valve.? If you see the holes line up before or at this point in the range of movement then you will need to set the solenoid where it will pull the lever even further. Dave -----Original Message----- From: EDWARD WOODS To: Kinderlehrer ; Art McEwen ; DAVID MASSEY Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Jul 17, 2021 8:18 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate A pressure test with a gauge from Jay Holekamp is a great idea. While your waiting for its arrival, loosen the clamping bolt and take the car for a ride. Reach across the transmission and operate the lever manually (the one you put the 3/16? drill into when you adjust the solenoid). If the overdrive kicks in, you have a solenoid or solenoid adjustment problem. The overdrives O.K. Better still have a passenger operate the lever, so that you can concentrate on your driving. And watch out for that spinning prop shaft. Loose clothing not allowed. ? By the way, if you have a functioning ammeter and the solenoid is connected on its load side, you can observe the operation of the solenoid on the meter. ? ? Ed Woods On 07/17/2021 3:35 PM Kinderlehrer wrote: ? ? Before you do anything else, do a load test on the battery. Even if it is producing 12 volts it may not be producing the 20 amps needed to engage the OD. Bob ? From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2021 11:24 AM To: DAVID MASSEY Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate ? Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the overdrive. ?:(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re still seated where they were. ? I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. ?Thinking of taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen wrote: ? Thanks! Art ? On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment.? Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. ? Dave ? ? -----Original Message----- From: Art McEwen To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? ? Thanks, ? Art TS64???LO ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From actionsl at att.net Sun Jul 18 12:27:30 2021 From: actionsl at att.net (Carl Carlson) Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2021 11:27:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 159 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Go with Toyota transmission Carl > On Jul 18, 2021, at 11:07 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > ?Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to > triumphs at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > triumphs-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > triumphs-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: TR3 O/D Solenoid plate (Art McEwen) > 2. Re: TR3 O/D Solenoid plate (Kinderlehrer) > 3. Re: TR3 O/D Solenoid plate (Art McEwen) > 4. Re: TR7 salvage in San Diego (DAVID MASSEY) > 5. Re: TR3 O/D Solenoid plate (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) > 6. Re: TR3 O/D Solenoid plate (DAVID MASSEY) > 7. Re: TR3 O/D Solenoid plate (Dave Connitt) > 8. Re: TR3 O/D Solenoid plate (Art McEwen) > 9. Re: TR3 O/D Solenoid plate (EDWARD WOODS) > 10. Re: TR3 O/D Solenoid plate (EDWARD WOODS) > 11. Re: TR3 O/D Solenoid plate (Art McEwen) > 12. Re: TR3 O/D Solenoid plate (Paul Tegler) > 13. Re: TR3 O/D Solenoid plate (Paul Tegler) > 14. Re: TR3 O/D Solenoid plate (DAVID MASSEY) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 14:23:49 -0400 > From: Art McEwen > To: DAVID MASSEY > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > Message-ID: <8EB42F8A-94FA-43BC-8C0D-A233C78A9385 at gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the overdrive. :(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re still seated where they were. > > I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. Thinking of taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. > >> On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen wrote: >> >> ? >> Thanks! >> >> Art >> >>>> On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: >>> Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment. Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. >>> >>> Dave >>> >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Art McEwen >>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >>> Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am >>> Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >>> >>> It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Art >>> TS64???LO >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 12:35:37 -0700 > From: "Kinderlehrer" > To: "'Art McEwen'" , "'DAVID MASSEY'" > > Cc: > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > Message-ID: <001b01d77b42$ec0864b0$c4192e10$@net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Before you do anything else, do a load test on the battery. Even if it is producing 12 volts it may not be producing the 20 amps needed to engage the OD. > > Bob > > > > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen > Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2021 11:24 AM > To: DAVID MASSEY > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > > > > Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the overdrive. :(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re still seated where they were. > > > > I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. Thinking of taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. > > > > > > On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen wrote: > > ? > > Thanks! > > Art > > > > On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: > > Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment. Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. > > > > Dave > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Art McEwen > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am > Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > > It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Art > > TS64???LO > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 15:44:43 -0400 > From: Art McEwen > To: Kinderlehrer > Cc: DAVID MASSEY , triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > Message-ID: <110594F3-8CE4-4DE9-BF70-79FB58AFEE2A at gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hi Bob, solenoid itself is operating fine but o/d is not engaging (running in 2nd gear on jacks). Pretty sure it?s not the adjustment as I?ve lined it up with the hole on the far side (and a little either side). Won?t engage when operated by hand either. > >> On Jul 17, 2021, at 3:35 PM, Kinderlehrer wrote: >> >> ? >> Before you do anything else, do a load test on the battery. Even if it is producing 12 volts it may not be producing the 20 amps needed to engage the OD. >> Bob >> >> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen >> Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2021 11:24 AM >> To: DAVID MASSEY >> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >> >> Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the overdrive. :(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re still seated where they were. >> >> I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. Thinking of taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. >> >> >> On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen wrote: >> >> ? >> Thanks! >> >> Art >> >> On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: >> Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment. Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. >> >> Dave >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Art McEwen >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am >> Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >> >> It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Art >> TS64???LO >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2021 00:29:17 +0000 (UTC) > From: DAVID MASSEY > To: "triumphstag at gmail.com" , > "triumphs at autox.team.net" , > "TTSCC at googlegroups.com" > Subject: Re: [TR] TR7 salvage in San Diego > Message-ID: <1668072844.96869.1626568157579 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Oooo.? Engine fire.? Still, it looks to be in good shape otherwise.? If someone was looking for a ground-up project this might not be a bad start. > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Sujit Roy > To: Triumphs ; TTSCC at googlegroups.com > Sent: Fri, Jul 16, 2021 5:56 pm > Subject: [TR] TR7 salvage in San Diego > > https://www.copart.com/lot/45637131/salvage-1980-triumph-car-all-models-ca-san-diego > > -- > Sujit Roy > Cupertino, California > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2021 00:31:59 +0000 > From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter > To: Art McEwen > Cc: Kinderlehrer , "triumphs at autox.team.net" > > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hi Art > > I may have missed all the discussion but you really need to get the operating pressure if the overdrive to help diagnose, especially since you see the solenoid working. > > Jay Holekamp makes a very nice gauge for this > > http://www.geocities.ws/jholekamp/ > > Cheers > Randy > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jul 17, 2021, at 3:47 PM, Art McEwen wrote: > > ? > Hi Bob, solenoid itself is operating fine but o/d is not engaging (running in 2nd gear on jacks). Pretty sure it?s not the adjustment as I?ve lined it up with the hole on the far side (and a little either side). Won?t engage when operated by hand either. > > On Jul 17, 2021, at 3:35 PM, Kinderlehrer wrote: > > ? > Before you do anything else, do a load test on the battery. Even if it is producing 12 volts it may not be producing the 20 amps needed to engage the OD. > Bob > > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen > Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2021 11:24 AM > To: DAVID MASSEY > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > > Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the overdrive. :(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re still seated where they were. > > I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. Thinking of taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. > > > On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen > wrote: > ? > Thanks! > Art > > On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY > wrote: > Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment. Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. > > Dave > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Art McEwen > > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am > Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? > > Thanks, > > Art > TS64???LO > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2021 00:37:29 +0000 (UTC) > From: DAVID MASSEY > To: "artwmcewen at gmail.com" , > "kinderlehrer at comcast.net" > Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > Message-ID: <373655020.95850.1626568649347 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > With no load on the wheels the engine speed will not change but the speedo will jump up.? This can be misleading if you don't know what to watch. > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Art McEwen > To: Kinderlehrer > Cc: DAVID MASSEY ; triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Jul 17, 2021 2:44 pm > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > > Hi Bob, solenoid itself is operating fine but o/d is not engaging (running in 2nd gear on jacks). ?Pretty sure it?s not the adjustment as I?ve lined it up with the hole on the far side (and a little either side). ?Won?t engage when operated by hand either. > > On Jul 17, 2021, at 3:35 PM, Kinderlehrer wrote: > > > > ? > #yiv6808487530 #yiv6808487530 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv6808487530 #yiv6808487530 p.yiv6808487530MsoNormal, #yiv6808487530 li.yiv6808487530MsoNormal, #yiv6808487530 div.yiv6808487530MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv6808487530 a:link, #yiv6808487530 span.yiv6808487530MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6808487530 a:visited, #yiv6808487530 span.yiv6808487530MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6808487530 p.yiv6808487530MsoAcetate, #yiv6808487530 li.yiv6808487530MsoAcetate, #yiv6808487530 div.yiv6808487530MsoAcetate {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:8.0pt;}#yiv6808487530 span.yiv6808487530EmailStyle17 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv6808487530 span.yiv6808487530BalloonTextChar {}#yiv6808487530 .yiv6808487530MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv6808487530 div.yiv6808487530WordSection1 {}#yiv6808487530 Before you do anything else, do a load test on the battery. E > ven if it is producing 12 volts it may not be producing the 20 amps needed to engage the OD. Bob ?From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen > Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2021 11:24 AM > To: DAVID MASSEY > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate ?Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the overdrive. ?:(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re still seated where they were. ?I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. ?Thinking of taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. > > On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen wrote: > ?Thanks!Art ?On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: > Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment.? Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. ?Dave ? ?-----Original Message----- > From: Art McEwen > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am > Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plateIt's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? ?Thanks, ?Art TS64???LO ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 20:44:04 -0400 > From: Dave Connitt > To: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter > Cc: Art McEwen , triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > Message-ID: <90012BB3-B6D5-4ED8-A44B-390E81F3F732 at fuse.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I agree with you Randy, he needs to get a pressure gauge and see if it?s building pressure. If he sees pressure then maybe when the lever on the solenoid was loose, he inadvertently moved tha actuating lever enough to let the metering valve on the opposite end drop down so now the valve isn?t turning the overdrive on and off? It?s easy to do, ask me how I know. > Dave Connitt > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jul 17, 2021, at 8:32 PM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter wrote: >> >> ? Hi Art >> >> I may have missed all the discussion but you really need to get the operating pressure if the overdrive to help diagnose, especially since you see the solenoid working. >> >> Jay Holekamp makes a very nice gauge for this >> >> http://www.geocities.ws/jholekamp/ >> >> Cheers >> Randy >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>>> On Jul 17, 2021, at 3:47 PM, Art McEwen wrote: >>>> >>> ? >>> Hi Bob, solenoid itself is operating fine but o/d is not engaging (running in 2nd gear on jacks). Pretty sure it?s not the adjustment as I?ve lined it up with the hole on the far side (and a little either side). Won?t engage when operated by hand either. >>> >>>> On Jul 17, 2021, at 3:35 PM, Kinderlehrer wrote: >>>> >>>> ? >>>> Before you do anything else, do a load test on the battery. Even if it is producing 12 volts it may not be producing the 20 amps needed to engage the OD. >>>> Bob >>>> >>>> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen >>>> Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2021 11:24 AM >>>> To: DAVID MASSEY >>>> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net >>>> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >>>> >>>> Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the overdrive. :(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re still seated where they were. >>>> >>>> I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. Thinking of taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. >>>> >>>> >>>> On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen wrote: >>>> >>>> ? >>>> Thanks! >>>> >>>> Art >>>> >>>> On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: >>>> Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment. Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. >>>> >>>> Dave >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -----Original Message----- >>>> From: Art McEwen >>>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >>>> Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am >>>> Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >>>> >>>> It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? >>>> >>>> Thanks, >>>> >>>> Art >>>> TS64???LO >>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 21:17:45 -0400 > From: Art McEwen > To: DAVID MASSEY > Cc: kinderlehrer at comcast.net, triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > Message-ID: <743DABE4-C3F0-45F5-9114-4435B9009356 at gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Yeah that?s what I?m thinking, however before the surgery there was a definite distinction when it engaged and the wheels turned faster. Will road test it before panicking. > >> On Jul 17, 2021, at 8:37 PM, DAVID MASSEY wrote: >> >> ? >> With no load on the wheels the engine speed will not change but the speedo will jump up. This can be misleading if you don't know what to watch. >> >> Dave >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Art McEwen >> To: Kinderlehrer >> Cc: DAVID MASSEY ; triumphs at autox.team.net >> Sent: Sat, Jul 17, 2021 2:44 pm >> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >> >> Hi Bob, solenoid itself is operating fine but o/d is not engaging (running in 2nd gear on jacks). Pretty sure it?s not the adjustment as I?ve lined it up with the hole on the far side (and a little either side). Won?t engage when operated by hand either. >> >>>> On Jul 17, 2021, at 3:35 PM, Kinderlehrer wrote: >>>> >>> ? >> >> Before you do anything else, do a load test on the battery. Even if it is producing 12 volts it may not be producing the 20 amps needed to engage the OD. >> Bob >> >> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen >> Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2021 11:24 AM >> To: DAVID MASSEY >> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >> >> Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the overdrive. :(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re still seated where they were. >> >> I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. Thinking of taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. >> >> >> On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen wrote: >> ? >> Thanks! >> Art >> >> On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: >> Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment. Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. >> >> Dave >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Art McEwen >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am >> Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >> It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Art >> TS64???LO >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 9 > Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 21:18:42 -0400 (EDT) > From: EDWARD WOODS > To: Kinderlehrer , Art McEwen > , DAVID MASSEY > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > Message-ID: <1517129293.268042.1626571123157 at connect.xfinity.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 10 > Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 21:20:59 -0400 (EDT) > From: EDWARD WOODS > To: Art McEwen , Kinderlehrer > > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > Message-ID: <447776436.268044.1626571259477 at connect.xfinity.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 11 > Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 21:24:42 -0400 > From: Art McEwen > To: EDWARD WOODS > Cc: Kinderlehrer , DAVID MASSEY > , triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > Message-ID: <5BE5F607-B0A3-4475-B43F-E646A6648349 at gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > There?s nothing wrong with the solenoid. It operates just fine. > > I removed and replaced the solenoid plate to deal with a leak and now the solenoid doesn?t engage the o/d anymore while the car is running on jacks. I was hoping to avoid a half assembled road test. > >> On Jul 17, 2021, at 9:18 PM, EDWARD WOODS wrote: >> >> ? >> A pressure test with a gauge from Jay Holekamp is a great idea. While your waiting for its arrival, loosen the clamping bolt and take the car for a ride. Reach across the transmission and operate the lever manually (the one you put the 3/16? drill into when you adjust the solenoid). If the overdrive kicks in, you have a solenoid or solenoid adjustment problem. The overdrives O.K. Better still have a passenger operate the lever, so that you can concentrate on your driving. And watch out for that spinning prop shaft. Loose clothing not allowed. >> >> By the way, if you have a functioning ammeter and the solenoid is connected on its load side, you can observe the operation of the solenoid on the meter. >> >> Ed Woods >>>> On 07/17/2021 3:35 PM Kinderlehrer wrote: >>> >>> >>> Before you do anything else, do a load test on the battery. Even if it is producing 12 volts it may not be producing the 20 amps needed to engage the OD. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> >>> >>> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen >>> Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2021 11:24 AM >>> To: DAVID MASSEY >>> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net >>> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >>> >>> >>> >>> Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the overdrive. :(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re still seated where they were. >>> >>> >>> >>> I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. Thinking of taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> Thanks! >>> >>> Art >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: >>> >>> Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment. Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. >>> >>> >>> >>> Dave >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Art McEwen >>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >>> Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am >>> Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >>> >>> It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? >>> >>> >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> >>> >>> Art >>> >>> TS64???LO >>> >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com >>> >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 12 > Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 21:40:59 -0400 > From: Paul Tegler > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > it's a ~20 amp to engage, then when the core bottoms out it switches to > a 5-8 amp holding coil to keep it in place. > > ptegler > >> On 7/17/2021 9:24 PM, Art McEwen wrote: >> There?s nothing wrong with the solenoid. ?It operates just fine. >> >> I removed and replaced the solenoid plate to deal with a leak and now >> the solenoid doesn?t engage the o/d anymore while the car is running >> on jacks. ? I was hoping to avoid a half assembled road test. >> >>>> On Jul 17, 2021, at 9:18 PM, EDWARD WOODS wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> A pressure test with a gauge from Jay Holekamp is a great idea. While >>> your waiting for its arrival, loosen the clamping bolt and take the >>> car for a ride. Reach across the transmission and operate the lever >>> manually (the one you put the 3/16? drill into when you adjust the >>> solenoid). If the overdrive kicks in, you have a solenoid or solenoid >>> adjustment problem. The overdrives O.K. Better still have a passenger >>> operate the lever, so that you can concentrate on your driving. And >>> watch out for that spinning prop shaft. Loose clothing not allowed. >>> By the way, if you have a functioning ammeter and the solenoid is >>> connected on its load side, you can observe the operation of the >>> solenoid on the meter. >>> Ed Woods >>>> On 07/17/2021 3:35 PM Kinderlehrer wrote: >>>> >>>> Before you do anything else, do a load test on the battery. Even if >>>> it is producing 12 volts it may not be producing the 20 amps needed >>>> to engage the OD. >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> >>>> *From:*Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf >>>> Of *Art McEwen >>>> *Sent:* Saturday, July 17, 2021 11:24 AM >>>> *To:* DAVID MASSEY >>>> *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net >>>> *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >>>> >>>> Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got >>>> the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the >>>> overdrive. ?:(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re >>>> still seated where they were. >>>> >>>> I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I >>>> tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. ?Thinking >>>> of taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen >>> > wrote: >>>> >>>> Thanks! >>>> >>>> Art >>>> >>>> On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY >>> > wrote: >>>> >>>> Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your >>>> solenoid adjustment.? Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty >>>> simple. >>>> >>>> Dave >>>> >>>> -----Original Message----- >>>> From: Art McEwen >>> > >>>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >>>> Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am >>>> Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >>>> >>>> It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen >>>> the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the >>>> plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove >>>> entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? >>>> >>>> Thanks, >>>> >>>> Art >>>> >>>> TS64???LO >>>> >>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >>>> http://www.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com >>>> >>>> >>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >>>> http://www.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net > > -- > Paul Tegler > ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 13 > Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 21:52:38 -0400 > From: Paul Tegler > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > put it third or fourth to get some speed (IE: pressure built up) to that > output shaft spinning the eccentric pump lobe. > > A 200-300 rpm is barely enough to maintain proper pressure. > > ptegler > >> On 7/17/2021 3:44 PM, Art McEwen wrote: >> Hi Bob, solenoid itself is operating fine but o/d is not engaging >> (running in 2nd gear on jacks). ?Pretty sure it?s not the adjustment >> as I?ve lined it up with the hole on the far side (and a little either >> side). ?Won?t engage when operated by hand either. >> >>> On Jul 17, 2021, at 3:35 PM, Kinderlehrer >>> wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> >>> Before you do anything else, do a load test on the battery. Even if >>> it is producing 12 volts it may not be producing the 20 amps needed >>> to engage the OD. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> *From:*Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf >>> Of *Art McEwen >>> *Sent:* Saturday, July 17, 2021 11:24 AM >>> *To:* DAVID MASSEY >>> *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net >>> *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >>> >>> Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got >>> the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the >>> overdrive. ?:(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re >>> still seated where they were. >>> >>> I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I >>> tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. ?Thinking of >>> taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. >>> >>> >>> >>> On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen >> > wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> >>> Thanks! >>> >>> Art >>> >>> On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY >> > wrote: >>> >>> Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your >>> solenoid adjustment.? Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty >>> simple. >>> >>> Dave >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Art McEwen >> > >>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >>> Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am >>> Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate >>> >>> It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen >>> the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the >>> plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove >>> entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Art >>> >>> TS64???LO >>> >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >>> http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com >>> >>> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net > > -- > Paul Tegler > ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 14 > Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2021 12:31:21 +0000 (UTC) > From: DAVID MASSEY > To: "fogbro1 at comcast.net" , > "kinderlehrer at comcast.net" , > "artwmcewen at gmail.com" > Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > Message-ID: <1676143611.132465.1626611481894 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > That reminds me, using the 3/16 drill bit technique (as detailed in the repair manual) to adjust the solenoid may or may not work.? Due to wear and manufacturing tolerances it is not uncommon that the adjustment needs to be deeper than what this method provides.? I found that I needed to go about 1/10th inch (2mm) beyond that to get reliable operation. > I don't remember if this works with the engine not running but if you manually operate the lever you can feel where it engages the valve.? If you see the holes line up before or at this point in the range of movement then you will need to set the solenoid where it will pull the lever even further. > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: EDWARD WOODS > To: Kinderlehrer ; Art McEwen ; DAVID MASSEY > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Jul 17, 2021 8:18 pm > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate > > A pressure test with a gauge from Jay Holekamp is a great idea. While your waiting for its arrival, loosen the clamping bolt and take the car for a ride. Reach across the transmission and operate the lever manually (the one you put the 3/16? drill into when you adjust the solenoid). If the overdrive kicks in, you have a solenoid or solenoid adjustment problem. The overdrives O.K. Better still have a passenger operate the lever, so that you can concentrate on your driving. And watch out for that spinning prop shaft. Loose clothing not allowed. ? By the way, if you have a functioning ammeter and the solenoid is connected on its load side, you can observe the operation of the solenoid on the meter. ? ? Ed Woods > On 07/17/2021 3:35 PM Kinderlehrer wrote: ? ? Before you do anything else, do a load test on the battery. Even if it is producing 12 volts it may not be producing the 20 amps needed to engage the OD. Bob ? From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen > Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2021 11:24 AM > To: DAVID MASSEY > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate ? Nothing went sproing when I took the plate off and I think I?ve got the leak sealed but no amount of solenoid adjustment will engage the overdrive. ?:(. The springs weren?t removed and I presume they?re still seated where they were. ? I?m wondering if some of the sludge in the bottom of the case that I tried to remove got relocated to a valve body somewhere. ?Thinking of taking it for a road test then changing fluid again. > > On Jul 15, 2021, at 1:54 PM, Art McEwen wrote: > ? Thanks! Art ? On Thu, Jul 15, 2021, 11:25 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: > Nothing will go sproing but you will likely loose your solenoid adjustment.? Not a big deal as adjusting is pretty simple. ? Dave ? ? -----Original Message----- > From: Art McEwen > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 9:48 am > Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate It's weeping oil (even more than "acceptable"), can I loosen the 4 screws to add gasket goop without misaligning the plunger/spring thingy behind it or is it safe to remove entirely while in place without something going "sprong"? ? Thanks, ? Art TS64???LO ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 159 > ***************************************** From trguy75 at gmail.com Sun Jul 18 16:56:13 2021 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2021 18:56:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Message-ID: <07ec01d77c28$1c9127d0$55b37770$@gmail.com> List: Converting my 67 4A over to the Bastuck narrow fan belt kit. This kit retains the fan extension tube and fan. I have the radiator out and fan blade and fan extension removed. I have the stock pulley at the top dead center position (hole at the top). Have not removed one of these before. Any tips on removing would be greatly appreciated. I still have the cross tube and was hoping it could be removed while that is still installed. Thanks in advance! Jim henningsen Ocala, FL 61 3A 67 4A 75 6 81 8 From deruiterville at hotmail.com Mon Jul 19 09:37:29 2021 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2021 15:37:29 +0000 Subject: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal In-Reply-To: <07ec01d77c28$1c9127d0$55b37770$@gmail.com> References: <07ec01d77c28$1c9127d0$55b37770$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Jim- to avoid bending anything I usually leave the fan extension on and I unthread the dog bolt slightly. Then I use a puller against the lip of the fan extension and the dog bolt. This will move it probably by 1/2 inch. If the hub is still firmly stuck, I replace the dog bolt with a thinner bit longer bolt and pull against it until the hub clears its key. Hope that makes sense Randy Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 18, 2021, at 6:57 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote: > > ?List: > Converting my 67 4A over to the Bastuck narrow fan belt kit. This kit > retains the fan extension tube and fan. I have the radiator out and fan > blade and fan extension removed. I have the stock pulley at the top dead > center position (hole at the top). Have not removed one of these before. > Any tips on removing would be greatly appreciated. I still have the cross > tube and was hoping it could be removed while that is still installed. > Thanks in advance! > Jim henningsen > Ocala, FL > 61 3A > 67 4A > 75 6 > 81 8 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com From trguy75 at gmail.com Mon Jul 19 10:22:44 2021 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2021 12:22:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal In-Reply-To: References: <07ec01d77c28$1c9127d0$55b37770$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <0a0201d77cba$4dfa75a0$e9ef60e0$@gmail.com> Yes it does and thanks. Successfully removed it this morning with a puller. Next up, remove the timing cover and replace oil seal and gasket. Any thoughts from the list on what to look for when inspecting the timing chain? I think it was changed by the previous owner who had the car 45 years but cant confirm. Thanks, Jim -----Original Message----- From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 11:37 AM To: Jim Henningsen Cc: TR List Subject: Re: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Jim- to avoid bending anything I usually leave the fan extension on and I unthread the dog bolt slightly. Then I use a puller against the lip of the fan extension and the dog bolt. This will move it probably by 1/2 inch. If the hub is still firmly stuck, I replace the dog bolt with a thinner bit longer bolt and pull against it until the hub clears its key. Hope that makes sense Randy Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 18, 2021, at 6:57 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote: > > ?List: > Converting my 67 4A over to the Bastuck narrow fan belt kit. This kit > retains the fan extension tube and fan. I have the radiator out and fan > blade and fan extension removed. I have the stock pulley at the top > dead center position (hole at the top). Have not removed one of these before. > Any tips on removing would be greatly appreciated. I still have the > cross tube and was hoping it could be removed while that is still installed. > Thanks in advance! > Jim henningsen > Ocala, FL > 61 3A > 67 4A > 75 6 > 81 8 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.c > om From trguy75 at gmail.com Mon Jul 19 10:28:12 2021 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2021 12:28:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: <0a1101d77cbb$11f0eed0$35d2cc70$@gmail.com> Cliff, so true. I?m refreshing the 72k orig mile 4A and I definitely run into the ?while I?m there, let?s fix this too so I don?t have to go there again for another 20 years. I took the extension and large crank bolt out. I had a 2 inch long thick bronze bushing that fits perfectly on my pulley bolt and flush against the crank. That provided the strength to pull the pulleys and hub free. Thanks, Jim From: Cliff Hansen Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 11:14 AM To: Jim Henningsen Subject: RE: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal The pulley hub is keyed to the front of the crank and probably adhered with years of crud. My guess is that?s what sticking. Some PB Blaster, and a few raps with a mallet (I use a deadblow) may persuade it. It?s difficult to use a puller since there?s nothing in the center to push against, unless you can find a short bolt to thread in where that large dog bolt was removed. Since you are in there, if there?s evidence of oil leaking from the timing cover, it?s most likely from the seal between the cover and the pulley hub. But I can see how changing that seal would slide into even more work (hey there?s the timing chain, I should replace that?) BTDT. Here?s hoping the pulley hub cooperates. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jim Henningsen Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 4:25 AM To: Cliff Hansen Subject: Re: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Cliff, Yes, I removed the crank bolt. The pulley seems pretty tight. Will see about getting it off today. Thanks, Jim On Jul 18, 2021, at 8:39 PM, Cliff Hansen > wrote: ? Jim, I take it you have removed that enormous bolt through the extension. The stock pulley is a two part assembly. You remove the 6 bolts through the hub and pulley halves. Then it just pulls off the front of the crank. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jim Henningsen Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2021 4:57 PM To: 'TR List' Subject: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal List: Converting my 67 4A over to the Bastuck narrow fan belt kit. This kit retains the fan extension tube and fan. I have the radiator out and fan blade and fan extension removed. I have the stock pulley at the top dead center position (hole at the top). Have not removed one of these before. Any tips on removing would be greatly appreciated. I still have the cross tube and was hoping it could be removed while that is still installed. Thanks in advance! Jim henningsen Ocala, FL 61 3A 67 4A 75 6 81 8 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at outlook.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cliff_hansen at outlook.com Mon Jul 19 10:41:00 2021 From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen) Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2021 16:41:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal In-Reply-To: <0a1101d77cbb$11f0eed0$35d2cc70$@gmail.com> References: , , <0a1101d77cbb$11f0eed0$35d2cc70$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Would that bushing be from the rear of the crankshaft, where the input shaft of the transmission rides? If so I also have one in my bin, and that?s a good tip. From the other email, I take it you are already planning to remove the timing cover to replace the seal. I would replace the timing chain and tensioner, they are not expensive. The hub pulley may need a speedisleeve if the old seal has worn any kind of groove. When you replace the timing cover, there is a stud in the middle that has to have a fiber washer and gasket sealer between the shoulder on the stud and the timing cover, otherwise oil will leak at this spot. I did this job about two years ago, leak free since and that?s a good feeling. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jim Henningsen Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 10:28 AM To: 'Cliff Hansen' Cc: 'TR List' Subject: RE: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Cliff, so true. I?m refreshing the 72k orig mile 4A and I definitely run into the ?while I?m there, let?s fix this too so I don?t have to go there again for another 20 years. I took the extension and large crank bolt out. I had a 2 inch long thick bronze bushing that fits perfectly on my pulley bolt and flush against the crank. That provided the strength to pull the pulleys and hub free. Thanks, Jim From: Cliff Hansen Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 11:14 AM To: Jim Henningsen Subject: RE: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal The pulley hub is keyed to the front of the crank and probably adhered with years of crud. My guess is that?s what sticking. Some PB Blaster, and a few raps with a mallet (I use a deadblow) may persuade it. It?s difficult to use a puller since there?s nothing in the center to push against, unless you can find a short bolt to thread in where that large dog bolt was removed. Since you are in there, if there?s evidence of oil leaking from the timing cover, it?s most likely from the seal between the cover and the pulley hub. But I can see how changing that seal would slide into even more work (hey there?s the timing chain, I should replace that?) BTDT. Here?s hoping the pulley hub cooperates. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jim Henningsen Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 4:25 AM To: Cliff Hansen Subject: Re: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Cliff, Yes, I removed the crank bolt. The pulley seems pretty tight. Will see about getting it off today. Thanks, Jim On Jul 18, 2021, at 8:39 PM, Cliff Hansen > wrote: ? Jim, I take it you have removed that enormous bolt through the extension. The stock pulley is a two part assembly. You remove the 6 bolts through the hub and pulley halves. Then it just pulls off the front of the crank. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jim Henningsen Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2021 4:57 PM To: 'TR List' Subject: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal List: Converting my 67 4A over to the Bastuck narrow fan belt kit. This kit retains the fan extension tube and fan. I have the radiator out and fan blade and fan extension removed. I have the stock pulley at the top dead center position (hole at the top). Have not removed one of these before. Any tips on removing would be greatly appreciated. I still have the cross tube and was hoping it could be removed while that is still installed. Thanks in advance! Jim henningsen Ocala, FL 61 3A 67 4A 75 6 81 8 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at outlook.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jul 19 10:41:39 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2021 16:41:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal In-Reply-To: <0a0201d77cba$4dfa75a0$e9ef60e0$@gmail.com> References: <07ec01d77c28$1c9127d0$55b37770$@gmail.com> <0a0201d77cba$4dfa75a0$e9ef60e0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <267483966.313718.1626712899326@mail.yahoo.com> Chains stretch.? If there is significant slop in the chain you should replace it.? It will make the engine quieter if nothing else.? Dave -----Original Message----- From: Jim Henningsen To: 'Randy and Valerie DeRuiter' Cc: 'TR List' Sent: Mon, Jul 19, 2021 11:22 am Subject: Re: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Yes it does and thanks.? Successfully removed it this morning with a puller.? Next up, remove the timing cover and replace oil seal and gasket.? Any thoughts from the list on what to look for when inspecting the timing chain?? I think it was changed by the previous owner who had the car 45 years but cant confirm.? Thanks, Jim -----Original Message----- From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 11:37 AM To: Jim Henningsen Cc: TR List Subject: Re: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Jim- to avoid bending anything I usually leave the fan extension on and I unthread the dog bolt slightly.? Then I use a puller against the lip of the fan extension and the dog bolt.? This will move it probably by 1/2 inch.? If the hub is still firmly stuck, I replace the dog bolt with a thinner bit longer bolt and pull against it until the hub clears its key. Hope that makes sense Randy Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 18, 2021, at 6:57 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote: > > ?List: > Converting my 67 4A over to the Bastuck narrow fan belt kit. This kit > retains the fan extension tube and fan.? I have the radiator out and fan > blade and fan extension removed.? I have the stock pulley at the top > dead center position (hole at the top).? Have not removed one of these before. > Any tips on removing would be greatly appreciated.? I still have the > cross tube and was hoping it could be removed while that is still installed. > Thanks in advance! > Jim henningsen > Ocala, FL > 61 3A > 67 4A > 75 6 > 81 8 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.c > om ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Mon Jul 19 12:48:41 2021 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2021 14:48:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal In-Reply-To: <267483966.313718.1626712899326@mail.yahoo.com> References: <07ec01d77c28$1c9127d0$55b37770$@gmail.com> <0a0201d77cba$4dfa75a0$e9ef60e0$@gmail.com> <267483966.313718.1626712899326@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0acd01d77cce$b1ac8660$15059320$@gmail.com> Thanks. Pulled cover off and chain and tensioner look really clean. Definitely have been replaced. Also evidenced by two new grade 8 bolts attaching fan hub extension. Chain is also tight so I will leave alone. Cheers, Jim From: DAVID MASSEY Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 12:42 PM To: trguy75 at gmail.com; deruiterville at hotmail.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Chains stretch. If there is significant slop in the chain you should replace it. It will make the engine quieter if nothing else. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Jim Henningsen > To: 'Randy and Valerie DeRuiter' > Cc: 'TR List' > Sent: Mon, Jul 19, 2021 11:22 am Subject: Re: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Yes it does and thanks. Successfully removed it this morning with a puller. Next up, remove the timing cover and replace oil seal and gasket. Any thoughts from the list on what to look for when inspecting the timing chain? I think it was changed by the previous owner who had the car 45 years but cant confirm. Thanks, Jim -----Original Message----- From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter > Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 11:37 AM To: Jim Henningsen > Cc: TR List > Subject: Re: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Jim- to avoid bending anything I usually leave the fan extension on and I unthread the dog bolt slightly. Then I use a puller against the lip of the fan extension and the dog bolt. This will move it probably by 1/2 inch. If the hub is still firmly stuck, I replace the dog bolt with a thinner bit longer bolt and pull against it until the hub clears its key. Hope that makes sense Randy Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 18, 2021, at 6:57 PM, Jim Henningsen > wrote: > > ?List: > Converting my 67 4A over to the Bastuck narrow fan belt kit. This kit > retains the fan extension tube and fan. I have the radiator out and fan > blade and fan extension removed. I have the stock pulley at the top > dead center position (hole at the top). Have not removed one of these before. > Any tips on removing would be greatly appreciated. I still have the > cross tube and was hoping it could be removed while that is still installed. > Thanks in advance! > Jim henningsen > Ocala, FL > 61 3A > 67 4A > 75 6 > 81 8 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.c > om ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Mon Jul 19 13:14:51 2021 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2021 15:14:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal In-Reply-To: References: , , <0a1101d77cbb$11f0eed0$35d2cc70$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <0aed01d77cd2$59775c50$0c6614f0$@gmail.com> Cliff: Thanks for the tips. List: The oil seal was inside a metal housing pressed into the timing cover. I had a heck of a time getting it out and damaged it slightly. See attached pictures. Seal1.jpg shows it removed but resting on opening in orientation it was installed. I don?t see this part listed on Moss or TRF. I am assuming this is the oil seal housing that needs to be reused with new seal. Thoughts?? Thanks in advance Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL From: Cliff Hansen Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 12:41 PM To: Jim Henningsen Cc: 'TR List' Subject: RE: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Would that bushing be from the rear of the crankshaft, where the input shaft of the transmission rides? If so I also have one in my bin, and that?s a good tip. >From the other email, I take it you are already planning to remove the timing cover to replace the seal. I would replace the timing chain and tensioner, they are not expensive. The hub pulley may need a speedisleeve if the old seal has worn any kind of groove. When you replace the timing cover, there is a stud in the middle that has to have a fiber washer and gasket sealer between the shoulder on the stud and the timing cover, otherwise oil will leak at this spot. I did this job about two years ago, leak free since and that?s a good feeling. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jim Henningsen Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 10:28 AM To: 'Cliff Hansen' Cc: 'TR List' Subject: RE: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Cliff, so true. I?m refreshing the 72k orig mile 4A and I definitely run into the ?while I?m there, let?s fix this too so I don?t have to go there again for another 20 years. I took the extension and large crank bolt out. I had a 2 inch long thick bronze bushing that fits perfectly on my pulley bolt and flush against the crank. That provided the strength to pull the pulleys and hub free. Thanks, Jim From: Cliff Hansen > Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 11:14 AM To: Jim Henningsen > Subject: RE: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal The pulley hub is keyed to the front of the crank and probably adhered with years of crud. My guess is that?s what sticking. Some PB Blaster, and a few raps with a mallet (I use a deadblow) may persuade it. It?s difficult to use a puller since there?s nothing in the center to push against, unless you can find a short bolt to thread in where that large dog bolt was removed. Since you are in there, if there?s evidence of oil leaking from the timing cover, it?s most likely from the seal between the cover and the pulley hub. But I can see how changing that seal would slide into even more work (hey there?s the timing chain, I should replace that?) BTDT. Here?s hoping the pulley hub cooperates. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jim Henningsen Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 4:25 AM To: Cliff Hansen Subject: Re: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Cliff, Yes, I removed the crank bolt. The pulley seems pretty tight. Will see about getting it off today. Thanks, Jim On Jul 18, 2021, at 8:39 PM, Cliff Hansen > wrote: ? Jim, I take it you have removed that enormous bolt through the extension. The stock pulley is a two part assembly. You remove the 6 bolts through the hub and pulley halves. Then it just pulls off the front of the crank. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jim Henningsen Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2021 4:57 PM To: 'TR List' Subject: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal List: Converting my 67 4A over to the Bastuck narrow fan belt kit. This kit retains the fan extension tube and fan. I have the radiator out and fan blade and fan extension removed. I have the stock pulley at the top dead center position (hole at the top). Have not removed one of these before. Any tips on removing would be greatly appreciated. I still have the cross tube and was hoping it could be removed while that is still installed. Thanks in advance! Jim henningsen Ocala, FL 61 3A 67 4A 75 6 81 8 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at outlook.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: seal1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 64780 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: seal2.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 72881 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: seal3.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 87703 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sackirby at chinaautogroup.com Mon Jul 19 13:20:55 2021 From: sackirby at chinaautogroup.com (Steve Kirby) Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2021 19:20:55 +0000 Subject: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal In-Reply-To: <0aed01d77cd2$59775c50$0c6614f0$@gmail.com> References: , , <0a1101d77cbb$11f0eed0$35d2cc70$@gmail.com> <0aed01d77cd2$59775c50$0c6614f0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <2c44780ab9a946a19730ab624399bd87@chinaautogroup.com> The metal ?housing? is part of the seal. Moss 520-000. Also order 324-680, the seal for the pedestal stud mentioned by someone else, plus the other components. Steve Kirby President China Auto Group 22831 Avenida Empresa Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA Direct: (949) 261-8208 Fax: (949) 767-5949 Cell: (949) 903-0957 Skype: steve.kirby29 www.chinaautogroup.com From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Jim Henningsen Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 12:15 PM To: 'Cliff Hansen' Cc: 'TR List' Subject: Re: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Cliff: Thanks for the tips. List: The oil seal was inside a metal housing pressed into the timing cover. I had a heck of a time getting it out and damaged it slightly. See attached pictures. Seal1.jpg shows it removed but resting on opening in orientation it was installed. I don?t see this part listed on Moss or TRF. I am assuming this is the oil seal housing that needs to be reused with new seal. Thoughts?? Thanks in advance Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL From: Cliff Hansen > Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 12:41 PM To: Jim Henningsen > Cc: 'TR List' > Subject: RE: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Would that bushing be from the rear of the crankshaft, where the input shaft of the transmission rides? If so I also have one in my bin, and that?s a good tip. From the other email, I take it you are already planning to remove the timing cover to replace the seal. I would replace the timing chain and tensioner, they are not expensive. The hub pulley may need a speedisleeve if the old seal has worn any kind of groove. When you replace the timing cover, there is a stud in the middle that has to have a fiber washer and gasket sealer between the shoulder on the stud and the timing cover, otherwise oil will leak at this spot. I did this job about two years ago, leak free since and that?s a good feeling. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jim Henningsen Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 10:28 AM To: 'Cliff Hansen' Cc: 'TR List' Subject: RE: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Cliff, so true. I?m refreshing the 72k orig mile 4A and I definitely run into the ?while I?m there, let?s fix this too so I don?t have to go there again for another 20 years. I took the extension and large crank bolt out. I had a 2 inch long thick bronze bushing that fits perfectly on my pulley bolt and flush against the crank. That provided the strength to pull the pulleys and hub free. Thanks, Jim From: Cliff Hansen > Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 11:14 AM To: Jim Henningsen > Subject: RE: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal The pulley hub is keyed to the front of the crank and probably adhered with years of crud. My guess is that?s what sticking. Some PB Blaster, and a few raps with a mallet (I use a deadblow) may persuade it. It?s difficult to use a puller since there?s nothing in the center to push against, unless you can find a short bolt to thread in where that large dog bolt was removed. Since you are in there, if there?s evidence of oil leaking from the timing cover, it?s most likely from the seal between the cover and the pulley hub. But I can see how changing that seal would slide into even more work (hey there?s the timing chain, I should replace that?) BTDT. Here?s hoping the pulley hub cooperates. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jim Henningsen Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 4:25 AM To: Cliff Hansen Subject: Re: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Cliff, Yes, I removed the crank bolt. The pulley seems pretty tight. Will see about getting it off today. Thanks, Jim On Jul 18, 2021, at 8:39 PM, Cliff Hansen > wrote: ? Jim, I take it you have removed that enormous bolt through the extension. The stock pulley is a two part assembly. You remove the 6 bolts through the hub and pulley halves. Then it just pulls off the front of the crank. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jim Henningsen Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2021 4:57 PM To: 'TR List' Subject: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal List: Converting my 67 4A over to the Bastuck narrow fan belt kit. This kit retains the fan extension tube and fan. I have the radiator out and fan blade and fan extension removed. I have the stock pulley at the top dead center position (hole at the top). Have not removed one of these before. Any tips on removing would be greatly appreciated. I still have the cross tube and was hoping it could be removed while that is still installed. Thanks in advance! Jim henningsen Ocala, FL 61 3A 67 4A 75 6 81 8 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at outlook.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Jul 19 13:21:50 2021 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (EDWARD WOODS) Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2021 15:21:50 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal In-Reply-To: <0aed01d77cd2$59775c50$0c6614f0$@gmail.com> References: , , <0a1101d77cbb$11f0eed0$35d2cc70$@gmail.com> <0aed01d77cd2$59775c50$0c6614f0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1553706114.274219.1626722510645@connect.xfinity.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Jul 19 13:24:18 2021 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (EDWARD WOODS) Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2021 15:24:18 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal In-Reply-To: <0aed01d77cd2$59775c50$0c6614f0$@gmail.com> References: , , <0a1101d77cbb$11f0eed0$35d2cc70$@gmail.com> <0aed01d77cd2$59775c50$0c6614f0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <900835115.274230.1626722659111@connect.xfinity.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Mon Jul 19 13:26:52 2021 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2021 15:26:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal In-Reply-To: <2c44780ab9a946a19730ab624399bd87@chinaautogroup.com> References: , , <0a1101d77cbb$11f0eed0$35d2cc70$@gmail.com> <0aed01d77cd2$59775c50$0c6614f0$@gmail.com> <2c44780ab9a946a19730ab624399bd87@chinaautogroup.com> Message-ID: <0b0801d77cd4$07e2bd10$17a83730$@gmail.com> Thanks Steve. My oil seal is from TRF and does not have a metal housing. The factory TR4A parts book references 56763 as ?Support, timing cover. It?s listed near the oil seal and TRF thinks that is the part. Will get the fiber washer too and a speedi sleeve since I do have wear marks from previous oil seal. Thanks all for the tips. I normally don?t do engine work, but I am feeling brave and this isn?t my daily driver. How nice it is to walk away when frustrated and grab a beer and not worry about getting the car running to use next day. Jim From: Steve Kirby Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 3:21 PM To: Jim Henningsen ; 'Cliff Hansen' Cc: 'TR List' Subject: RE: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal The metal ?housing? is part of the seal. Moss 520-000. Also order 324-680, the seal for the pedestal stud mentioned by someone else, plus the other components. Steve Kirby President China Auto Group 22831 Avenida Empresa Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA Direct: (949) 261-8208 Fax: (949) 767-5949 Cell: (949) 903-0957 Skype: steve.kirby29 www.chinaautogroup.com From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Jim Henningsen Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 12:15 PM To: 'Cliff Hansen' > Cc: 'TR List' > Subject: Re: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Cliff: Thanks for the tips. List: The oil seal was inside a metal housing pressed into the timing cover. I had a heck of a time getting it out and damaged it slightly. See attached pictures. Seal1.jpg shows it removed but resting on opening in orientation it was installed. I don?t see this part listed on Moss or TRF. I am assuming this is the oil seal housing that needs to be reused with new seal. Thoughts?? Thanks in advance Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL From: Cliff Hansen > Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 12:41 PM To: Jim Henningsen > Cc: 'TR List' > Subject: RE: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Would that bushing be from the rear of the crankshaft, where the input shaft of the transmission rides? If so I also have one in my bin, and that?s a good tip. >From the other email, I take it you are already planning to remove the timing cover to replace the seal. I would replace the timing chain and tensioner, they are not expensive. The hub pulley may need a speedisleeve if the old seal has worn any kind of groove. When you replace the timing cover, there is a stud in the middle that has to have a fiber washer and gasket sealer between the shoulder on the stud and the timing cover, otherwise oil will leak at this spot. I did this job about two years ago, leak free since and that?s a good feeling. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jim Henningsen Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 10:28 AM To: 'Cliff Hansen' Cc: 'TR List' Subject: RE: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Cliff, so true. I?m refreshing the 72k orig mile 4A and I definitely run into the ?while I?m there, let?s fix this too so I don?t have to go there again for another 20 years. I took the extension and large crank bolt out. I had a 2 inch long thick bronze bushing that fits perfectly on my pulley bolt and flush against the crank. That provided the strength to pull the pulleys and hub free. Thanks, Jim From: Cliff Hansen > Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 11:14 AM To: Jim Henningsen > Subject: RE: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal The pulley hub is keyed to the front of the crank and probably adhered with years of crud. My guess is that?s what sticking. Some PB Blaster, and a few raps with a mallet (I use a deadblow) may persuade it. It?s difficult to use a puller since there?s nothing in the center to push against, unless you can find a short bolt to thread in where that large dog bolt was removed. Since you are in there, if there?s evidence of oil leaking from the timing cover, it?s most likely from the seal between the cover and the pulley hub. But I can see how changing that seal would slide into even more work (hey there?s the timing chain, I should replace that?) BTDT. Here?s hoping the pulley hub cooperates. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jim Henningsen Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 4:25 AM To: Cliff Hansen Subject: Re: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Cliff, Yes, I removed the crank bolt. The pulley seems pretty tight. Will see about getting it off today. Thanks, Jim On Jul 18, 2021, at 8:39 PM, Cliff Hansen > wrote: ? Jim, I take it you have removed that enormous bolt through the extension. The stock pulley is a two part assembly. You remove the 6 bolts through the hub and pulley halves. Then it just pulls off the front of the crank. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jim Henningsen Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2021 4:57 PM To: 'TR List' Subject: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal List: Converting my 67 4A over to the Bastuck narrow fan belt kit. This kit retains the fan extension tube and fan. I have the radiator out and fan blade and fan extension removed. I have the stock pulley at the top dead center position (hole at the top). Have not removed one of these before. Any tips on removing would be greatly appreciated. I still have the cross tube and was hoping it could be removed while that is still installed. Thanks in advance! Jim henningsen Ocala, FL 61 3A 67 4A 75 6 81 8 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at outlook.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sackirby at chinaautogroup.com Mon Jul 19 13:31:18 2021 From: sackirby at chinaautogroup.com (Steve Kirby) Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2021 19:31:18 +0000 Subject: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal In-Reply-To: <0b0801d77cd4$07e2bd10$17a83730$@gmail.com> References: , , <0a1101d77cbb$11f0eed0$35d2cc70$@gmail.com> <0aed01d77cd2$59775c50$0c6614f0$@gmail.com> <2c44780ab9a946a19730ab624399bd87@chinaautogroup.com> <0b0801d77cd4$07e2bd10$17a83730$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Some oil seals have the metal part covered with rubber, so you don?t see the metal. Check the OD of the original seal and the replacement seal and I think you will see they are the same. You had to remove the metal part to install the new seal. Steve Kirby President China Auto Group 22831 Avenida Empresa Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA Direct: (949) 261-8208 Fax: (949) 767-5949 Cell: (949) 903-0957 Skype: steve.kirby29 www.chinaautogroup.com From: Jim Henningsen Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 12:27 PM To: Steve Kirby ; 'Cliff Hansen' Cc: 'TR List' Subject: RE: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Thanks Steve. My oil seal is from TRF and does not have a metal housing. The factory TR4A parts book references 56763 as ?Support, timing cover. It?s listed near the oil seal and TRF thinks that is the part. Will get the fiber washer too and a speedi sleeve since I do have wear marks from previous oil seal. Thanks all for the tips. I normally don?t do engine work, but I am feeling brave and this isn?t my daily driver. How nice it is to walk away when frustrated and grab a beer and not worry about getting the car running to use next day. Jim From: Steve Kirby > Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 3:21 PM To: Jim Henningsen >; 'Cliff Hansen' > Cc: 'TR List' > Subject: RE: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal The metal ?housing? is part of the seal. Moss 520-000. Also order 324-680, the seal for the pedestal stud mentioned by someone else, plus the other components. Steve Kirby President China Auto Group 22831 Avenida Empresa Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA Direct: (949) 261-8208 Fax: (949) 767-5949 Cell: (949) 903-0957 Skype: steve.kirby29 www.chinaautogroup.com From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Jim Henningsen Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 12:15 PM To: 'Cliff Hansen' > Cc: 'TR List' > Subject: Re: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Cliff: Thanks for the tips. List: The oil seal was inside a metal housing pressed into the timing cover. I had a heck of a time getting it out and damaged it slightly. See attached pictures. Seal1.jpg shows it removed but resting on opening in orientation it was installed. I don?t see this part listed on Moss or TRF. I am assuming this is the oil seal housing that needs to be reused with new seal. Thoughts?? Thanks in advance Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL From: Cliff Hansen > Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 12:41 PM To: Jim Henningsen > Cc: 'TR List' > Subject: RE: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Would that bushing be from the rear of the crankshaft, where the input shaft of the transmission rides? If so I also have one in my bin, and that?s a good tip. From the other email, I take it you are already planning to remove the timing cover to replace the seal. I would replace the timing chain and tensioner, they are not expensive. The hub pulley may need a speedisleeve if the old seal has worn any kind of groove. When you replace the timing cover, there is a stud in the middle that has to have a fiber washer and gasket sealer between the shoulder on the stud and the timing cover, otherwise oil will leak at this spot. I did this job about two years ago, leak free since and that?s a good feeling. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jim Henningsen Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 10:28 AM To: 'Cliff Hansen' Cc: 'TR List' Subject: RE: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Cliff, so true. I?m refreshing the 72k orig mile 4A and I definitely run into the ?while I?m there, let?s fix this too so I don?t have to go there again for another 20 years. I took the extension and large crank bolt out. I had a 2 inch long thick bronze bushing that fits perfectly on my pulley bolt and flush against the crank. That provided the strength to pull the pulleys and hub free. Thanks, Jim From: Cliff Hansen > Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 11:14 AM To: Jim Henningsen > Subject: RE: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal The pulley hub is keyed to the front of the crank and probably adhered with years of crud. My guess is that?s what sticking. Some PB Blaster, and a few raps with a mallet (I use a deadblow) may persuade it. It?s difficult to use a puller since there?s nothing in the center to push against, unless you can find a short bolt to thread in where that large dog bolt was removed. Since you are in there, if there?s evidence of oil leaking from the timing cover, it?s most likely from the seal between the cover and the pulley hub. But I can see how changing that seal would slide into even more work (hey there?s the timing chain, I should replace that?) BTDT. Here?s hoping the pulley hub cooperates. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jim Henningsen Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 4:25 AM To: Cliff Hansen Subject: Re: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal Cliff, Yes, I removed the crank bolt. The pulley seems pretty tight. Will see about getting it off today. Thanks, Jim On Jul 18, 2021, at 8:39 PM, Cliff Hansen > wrote: ? Jim, I take it you have removed that enormous bolt through the extension. The stock pulley is a two part assembly. You remove the 6 bolts through the hub and pulley halves. Then it just pulls off the front of the crank. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jim Henningsen Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2021 4:57 PM To: 'TR List' Subject: [TR] Front Pullet Hub Removal List: Converting my 67 4A over to the Bastuck narrow fan belt kit. This kit retains the fan extension tube and fan. I have the radiator out and fan blade and fan extension removed. I have the stock pulley at the top dead center position (hole at the top). Have not removed one of these before. Any tips on removing would be greatly appreciated. I still have the cross tube and was hoping it could be removed while that is still installed. Thanks in advance! Jim henningsen Ocala, FL 61 3A 67 4A 75 6 81 8 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at outlook.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Tue Jul 20 09:30:01 2021 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2021 11:30:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A sun visor is loose Message-ID: <40F6A6CD-4A53-40F9-BA44-D24C1AB308BD@fuse.net> Hi All, Does anyone have a solution for sun visors that won?t stay in the ?up? position? I can feel some type of clamp under the vinyl covering in the sun visor on the outside end of the visors and I imagine that is what is supposed to hold the visor in place but after 50 years it?s not what it used to be. Anyway, has anyone had success improving the grip of the visor to the rod that holds it? I am heading to Pittsburgh this weekend to attend the British Car Show and watch some vintage racing and it would be nice to fix this before I leave. Thanks, Dave Connitt Sent from my iPhone From deruiterville at hotmail.com Tue Jul 20 09:56:42 2021 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2021 15:56:42 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4A sun visor is loose In-Reply-To: <40F6A6CD-4A53-40F9-BA44-D24C1AB308BD@fuse.net> References: <40F6A6CD-4A53-40F9-BA44-D24C1AB308BD@fuse.net> Message-ID: Dave - I think what you feel inside the vinyl is just thin metal sleeve. What I?ve done before it take the visor off and use a pliers gently to squeeze the sleeve and get more friction to hold it to the rod. Emphasis on gently.. Cheers Randy Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 20, 2021, at 11:30 AM, Dave Connitt wrote: > > ?Hi All, > Does anyone have a solution for sun visors that won?t stay in the ?up? position? I can feel some type of clamp under the vinyl covering in the sun visor on the outside end of the visors and I imagine that is what is supposed to hold the visor in place but after 50 years it?s not what it used to be. > Anyway, has anyone had success improving the grip of the visor to the rod that holds it? > I am heading to Pittsburgh this weekend to attend the British Car Show and watch some vintage racing and it would be nice to fix this before I leave. > Thanks, > Dave Connitt > > Sent from my iPhone > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com From triumphstag at gmail.com Tue Jul 20 12:46:52 2021 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2021 11:46:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR7 salvage in San Diego In-Reply-To: <1668072844.96869.1626568157579@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1668072844.96869.1626568157579@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael Hart who know a bit about TR7's sent me this: ?FYI ? This is a genuine 1980 TR7 Spider, Solihull factory California fuel injected engine version (one of 548) TPZDJ8AA401772 Ship date Aug 20th, 1980 (from the original build card); no previous records of ownership in the TWOA database. It looks like it suffered from the classic Bosch high pressure fuel injection engine fire - fuel at 40psi through rotten fuel hoses? Also it seems to have lost the red decals/stripes and the interior looks pretty poor; though the original Spider carpet and seats May be worth a look. Most other parts should be salvageable and perfect fit to any 1980 fuel injected TR7; 5-speed tranny Spider alloys AC components Might even be a restoration candidate (the engine fire was likely just on the top surface). Happy bidding! On Sat, Jul 17, 2021 at 5:29 PM DAVID MASSEY wrote: > Oooo. Engine fire. Still, it looks to be in good shape otherwise. If > someone was looking for a ground-up project this might not be a bad start. > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Sujit Roy > To: Triumphs ; TTSCC at googlegroups.com > Sent: Fri, Jul 16, 2021 5:56 pm > Subject: [TR] TR7 salvage in San Diego > > > https://www.copart.com/lot/45637131/salvage-1980-triumph-car-all-models-ca-san-diego > > -- > Sujit Roy > Cupertino, California > > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jul 20 13:07:36 2021 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2021 15:07:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A sun visor is loose In-Reply-To: References: <40F6A6CD-4A53-40F9-BA44-D24C1AB308BD@fuse.net> Message-ID: <1M7rp8-1m0x0V0KJe-0050S4@mrelay.perfora.net> If the TR4 visor is like the TR6 I didn?t have any luck squeezing the sleeve?. My solution, which has now held up for 23 years was to pull the visor completely off of the rod and give the rod a gentle bend?.emphasis on gentle?.. test fit and bend again is required?. Bob Danielson TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2021 11:56 AM To: Dave Connitt Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A sun visor is loose Dave - I think what you feel inside the vinyl is just thin metal sleeve. What I?ve done before it take the visor off and use a pliers gently to squeeze the sleeve and get more friction to hold it to the rod. Emphasis on gently.. Cheers Randy Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 20, 2021, at 11:30 AM, Dave Connitt wrote: > > ?Hi All, > Does anyone have a solution for sun visors that won?t stay in the ?up? position? I can feel some type of clamp under the vinyl covering in the sun visor on the outside end of the visors and I imagine that is what is supposed to hold the visor in place but after 50 years it?s not what it used to be. > Anyway, has anyone had success improving the grip of the visor to the rod that holds it? > I am heading to Pittsburgh this weekend to attend the British Car Show and watch some vintage racing and it would be nice to fix this before I leave. > Thanks, > Dave Connitt > > Sent from my iPhone > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Jul 20 13:45:48 2021 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2021 12:45:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A sun visor is loose In-Reply-To: <1M7rp8-1m0x0V0KJe-0050S4@mrelay.perfora.net> References: <40F6A6CD-4A53-40F9-BA44-D24C1AB308BD@fuse.net> <1M7rp8-1m0x0V0KJe-0050S4@mrelay.perfora.net> Message-ID: <98F9D44A-C6C4-4BAB-A13F-F2E19742EEBD@comcast.net> I simply slide a length of stainless steal wire down the link of the visor?problem solved > On Jul 20, 2021, at 12:07 PM, Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > > If the TR4 visor is like the TR6 I didn?t have any luck squeezing the sleeve?. My solution, which has now held up for 23 years was to pull the visor completely off of the rod and give the rod a gentle bend?.emphasis on gentle?.. test fit and bend again is required?. > > Bob Danielson > TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm > > From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter > Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2021 11:56 AM > To: Dave Connitt > Cc: Triumphs > Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A sun visor is loose > > Dave - > > I think what you feel inside the vinyl is just thin metal sleeve. What I?ve done before it take the visor off and use a pliers gently to squeeze the sleeve and get more friction to hold it to the rod. Emphasis on gently.. > > Cheers > Randy > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Jul 20, 2021, at 11:30 AM, Dave Connitt wrote: > > > > ?Hi All, > > Does anyone have a solution for sun visors that won?t stay in the ?up? position? I can feel some type of clamp under the vinyl covering in the sun visor on the outside end of the visors and I imagine that is what is supposed to hold the visor in place but after 50 years it?s not what it used to be. > > Anyway, has anyone had success improving the grip of the visor to the rod that holds it? > > I am heading to Pittsburgh this weekend to attend the British Car Show and watch some vintage racing and it would be nice to fix this before I leave. > > Thanks, > > Dave Connitt > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/anabil007 at comcast.net From adrianjones747 at centurylink.net Tue Jul 20 19:39:16 2021 From: adrianjones747 at centurylink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2021 21:39:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Starting car after storage Message-ID: <017c01d77dd1$38a3e160$a9eba420$@net> Hi Folks, Well, I took everyone's good advice and it started up, no problem. So naturally I decided to go for a test drive - the tow truck has just dropped the car off. After about a mile of driving, it felt a bit sluggish so I pulled into a Garden Center and tried to turn around. It stalled and it decided it didn't want to go any further. That's when I called Hagerty for the tow truck. I have a feeling the brakes have rusted up and seized. I have to jack up the car and see which ones - front or back. Which are more likely to seize? Probably the back drums, right? Funny thing though - before I started walking back home, I felt each wheel for heat - nothing. Cheers -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Tue Jul 20 21:13:57 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2021 22:13:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] Starting car after storage In-Reply-To: <017c01d77dd1$38a3e160$a9eba420$@net> References: <017c01d77dd1$38a3e160$a9eba420$@net> Message-ID: <7DD2A7EB-DA64-4D9A-BA89-0C3FA5A5E331@yahoo.com> Start by rebuilding/replacing the rear brakes. May be as easy as cleaning up the wheel cylinders sanding the shoes and a good rubbing of the drums with steel wool. If they are pitted then ghey should be turned. I would take this opportunity to fully flush and refill the brake lines, I would recommend DOT 5.0 fluid. Then on to the front, pop the pistons out and polish them up with some 4-0 steel wool. Hope this helps. Bill B TS30800L Last night I saw upon the stair, A little man who wasn't there, He wasn't there again today Oh, how I wish he'd go away.... Mearns On Jul 20, 2021, at 8:39 PM, Adrian Jones wrote: ? Hi Folks, Well, I took everyone?s good advice and it started up, no problem. So naturally I decided to go for a test drive ? the tow truck has just dropped the car off. After about a mile of driving, it felt a bit sluggish so I pulled into a Garden Center and tried to turn around. It stalled and it decided it didn?t want to go any further. That?s when I called Hagerty for the tow truck. I have a feeling the brakes have rusted up and seized. I have to jack up the car and see which ones ? front or back. Which are more likely to seize? Probably the back drums, right? Funny thing though ? before I started walking back home, I felt each wheel for heat ? nothing. Cheers ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jul 21 05:36:42 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 11:36:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Starting car after storage In-Reply-To: <017c01d77dd1$38a3e160$a9eba420$@net> References: <017c01d77dd1$38a3e160$a9eba420$@net> Message-ID: <91380457.778062.1626867402136@mail.yahoo.com> Are you saying the engine runs fine but it won't move because the brakes are holding it back?? What model car is it? If it is a TR4 or some other model with a single circuit braking system and all the brakes are locked up try cracking open a bleeder and see if that relieves the pressure and frees up the brakes.? If so the master cylinder is likely the problem.? Dave -----Original Message----- From: Adrian Jones To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Jul 20, 2021 8:39 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Starting car after storage Hi Folks, ? Well, I took everyone?sgood advice and it started up, no problem. ? So naturally I decided to gofor a test drive ? the tow truck has just dropped the car off. ? After about a mile ofdriving, it felt a bit sluggish so I pulled into a Garden Center and tried toturn around.? It stalled and it decided it didn?t want to go anyfurther.? That?s when I called Hagerty for the tow truck. ? I have a feeling the brakeshave rusted up and seized.? I have to jack up the car and see which ones ?front or back.? Which are more likely to seize?? Probably the backdrums, right? Funny thing though ? before I started walking back home, Ifelt each wheel for heat ? nothing. ? Cheers ? ? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Wed Jul 21 07:30:37 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 08:30:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Starting car after storage In-Reply-To: <91380457.778062.1626867402136@mail.yahoo.com> References: <017c01d77dd1$38a3e160$a9eba420$@net> <91380457.778062.1626867402136@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002601d77e34$98ba62f0$ca2f28d0$@ranteer.com> A friend was restoring a car, and like you got it running so decided to go for a test drive. Backing out of the driveway one of the brake cylinders blew so he replaced it. (drums all around). Next round, another brake cylinder blew so then he replaced all 3. Then the master cylinder blew before he got very far . . . . I?m assuming you have seriously bled all the hydraulics? Including the clutch? -----Original Message----- From: Adrian Jones > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Jul 20, 2021 8:39 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Starting car after storage Hi Folks, Well, I took everyone?s good advice and it started up, no problem. So naturally I decided to go for a test drive ? the tow truck has just dropped the car off. After about a mile of driving, it felt a bit sluggish so I pulled into a Garden Center and tried to turn around. It stalled and it decided it didn?t want to go any further. That?s when I called Hagerty for the tow truck. I have a feeling the brakes have rusted up and seized. I have to jack up the car and see which ones ? front or back. Which are more likely to seize? Probably the back drums, right? Funny thing though ? before I started walking back home, I felt each wheel for heat ? nothing. Cheers ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From adrianjones747 at centurylink.net Wed Jul 21 08:46:15 2021 From: adrianjones747 at centurylink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 10:46:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] Starting car after storage Message-ID: <01b601d77e3f$28c1d4f0$7a457ed0$@net> Thanks for the response, folks. David, It's a TR3A. Yeah, engine runs fine but stalls when I let out the clutch. I'll open a bleeder and see what happens. Bill, I'll start at the back. Cheers! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jul 21 08:58:42 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 14:58:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Starting car after storage In-Reply-To: <01b601d77e3f$28c1d4f0$7a457ed0$@net> References: <01b601d77e3f$28c1d4f0$7a457ed0$@net> Message-ID: <1375700190.722555.1626879522414@mail.yahoo.com> You may find that bleeding one will resolve the issue.? If so the problem is in the master cylinder.? There is a passage to the reservoir at the far end of the cylinder and a cup that seals it off when the pedal is depressed.? When the pedal is released a small rod pulls it away from the end opening up the passage.? If that rod becomes disengaged from the piston it will continue to seal up the system and as things heat up pressure will build and apply the brakes.? This happened to a friend on his Herald. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Adrian Jones To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Jul 21, 2021 9:46 am Subject: [TR] Starting car after storage Thanks for the response,folks. ? David, It?s a TR3A. Yeah, engine runs fine butstalls when I let out the clutch. I?ll open a bleeder andsee what happens. ? Bill, I?ll start at the back. ? Cheers! ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Wed Jul 21 09:04:11 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 10:04:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Starting car after storage In-Reply-To: <01b601d77e3f$28c1d4f0$7a457ed0$@net> References: <01b601d77e3f$28c1d4f0$7a457ed0$@net> Message-ID: <1182612A-F5A6-4032-8F0D-FA0CD40E13E7@yahoo.com> You might also look for a damaged line that would be blocking the flow of fluid, BTDT. Bill Last night I saw upon the stair, A little man who wasn't there, He wasn't there again today Oh, how I wish he'd go away.... Mearns On Jul 21, 2021, at 9:46 AM, Adrian Jones wrote: ? Thanks for the response, folks. David, It?s a TR3A. Yeah, engine runs fine but stalls when I let out the clutch. I?ll open a bleeder and see what happens. Bill, I?ll start at the back. Cheers! ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From adrianjones747 at centurylink.net Wed Jul 21 10:48:26 2021 From: adrianjones747 at centurylink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 12:48:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Starting car after storage Message-ID: <01d001d77e50$3a44a660$aecdf320$@net> It's been a while since I jacked up the car so please bear with me. The following link is for a photo taken from the back of the car (TR3A). It shows: Fat round crossmember (looks like someone had welded on a towing hitch at one time!) Thin round crossmember Pumpkin Can I put the floor- jack under the fat round crossmember (under the remnants of the towing hitch)? I used to use the floor- jack under the pumpkin and then place jack stands under the square lengthways frame but google tells me jacking under the pumpkin may distort the lip and possibly lead to leaks. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Zk9fLUH_bag2C5XwbpjhUldzWdmbjBX-/view?usp=s haring Cheers -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed Jul 21 11:53:26 2021 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 11:53:26 -0600 Subject: [TR] location required Message-ID: <40f4f6d6-47b6-7b93-4e68-65f5b8c1616b@porterscustom.com> Can any of you TR 250 owners confirm these belong on a 250 and their locations on the vehicle.. Thanks? Davep -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8115.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1696986 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8114.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1836594 bytes Desc: not available URL: From grglmn at gmail.com Wed Jul 21 12:07:04 2021 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 13:07:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] location required In-Reply-To: <40f4f6d6-47b6-7b93-4e68-65f5b8c1616b@porterscustom.com> References: <40f4f6d6-47b6-7b93-4e68-65f5b8c1616b@porterscustom.com> Message-ID: Under the hood (bonnet) on the left side, I taped mine off and did not remove them when I repainted the car On Wed, Jul 21, 2021, 12:55 PM David P wrote: > Can any of you TR 250 owners confirm these belong on a 250 and their > locations on the vehicle.. Thanks Davep > > -- > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My > World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20210721_130003978.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1310337 bytes Desc: not available URL: From adrianjones747 at centurylink.net Wed Jul 21 15:14:40 2021 From: adrianjones747 at centurylink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 17:14:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes Message-ID: <01fb01d77e75$6bcf9a80$436ecf80$@net> Hi folks, I got the car jacked up and the back wheels off. Now I'm looking at the back brakes. The driver's side drum is locked up; the passenger side I can rotate. I can't get either drum off, despite banging on them with a rubber mallet. (I've taken out the 2 flat screws) Any ideas? Cheers -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jul 21 15:44:30 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 21:44:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes In-Reply-To: <01fb01d77e75$6bcf9a80$436ecf80$@net> References: <01fb01d77e75$6bcf9a80$436ecf80$@net> Message-ID: <388379148.927714.1626903870045@mail.yahoo.com> obviously you won't get the drum that is locked up off because it is, well, locked up.? The one that rotates freely doesn't need to come off.? Try backing off the adjuster on the side that is locked up.? if you can back off the adjuster it may release the drum and you can then, maybe, pull it off.? Good luck. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Adrian Jones To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Jul 21, 2021 4:14 pm Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes Hi folks, I got the car jacked up and theback wheels off. Now I?m looking at the backbrakes. The driver?s side drum islocked up; the passenger side I can rotate. I can?t get either drumoff, despite banging on them with a rubber mallet. (I?ve taken out the 2flat screws) Any ideas? Cheers ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From adrianjones747 at centurylink.net Wed Jul 21 16:04:15 2021 From: adrianjones747 at centurylink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 18:04:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes In-Reply-To: References: <01fb01d77e75$6bcf9a80$436ecf80$@net> Message-ID: <020901d77e7c$59239e70$0b6adb50$@net> Thanks for that Jerry. I?d forgotten that the square fitting was on the back! Loosened that (with the proper wrench) and the drums came right off. All I can see untoward is a bit of dust that I?ll vacuum off tomorrow morning. Other than that it?s still puzzling why it locked up. Cheers! From: jerry van vlack [mailto:jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2021 5:25 PM To: Adrian Jones; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes You can try backing off the adjustment which is done by turning (loosening) the square headed fitting opposite the wheel cylinder on the back side of the backing plate .It?s a quarter inch square and you can cobble together some quarter inch drive sockets to fit the adjustment screw. If that doesn?t work try grinding the heads off of the pins that hold the shoes tight against the backing plate. They look like the head of a nail and are at 90 degrees from the wheel cylinder. What you?re tring to do is release the shoes from the drum thus allowing the drums to pull off. JVV Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Adrian Jones Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2021 5:15 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes Hi folks, I got the car jacked up and the back wheels off. Now I?m looking at the back brakes. The driver?s side drum is locked up; the passenger side I can rotate. I can?t get either drum off, despite banging on them with a rubber mallet. (I?ve taken out the 2 flat screws) Any ideas? Cheers -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sackirby at chinaautogroup.com Wed Jul 21 16:07:59 2021 From: sackirby at chinaautogroup.com (Steve Kirby) Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 22:07:59 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes In-Reply-To: <01fb01d77e75$6bcf9a80$436ecf80$@net> References: <01fb01d77e75$6bcf9a80$436ecf80$@net> Message-ID: <93a08b9939e34adc809287e9682e5ca5@chinaautogroup.com> This is a typical problem with drum brakes, especially if they are worn and/or have sat around a long time. Usually caused by a "lip" on the outer edge of the drum surface that is hanging up on the brake shows as you try to pull it free. 1. Be sure that the adjusters are all the way retracted (see the service manual for how they work). 2. Remove the brake lines from the brake cylinders from the rear of the backing plate, or at the feed hose to be sure there is no residual pressure trapped in the line or cylinder. 3. You must get the locked up side free or it will never come off. Try to get it rotating. 4. Also take the emergency brake cable off both sides and be sure it's not that system which has the shoes locked. 5. I think you can take the hydraulic cylinder loose from the back side of the backing plate. That would free up the upper part of both shoes. 6. The shoes are held to the backing plate by two little "nails" that insert from the back of the backing plate, go through a spring and then lock with a cup inside the drum. You can grind off the "head" of the "nails" from the back of the backing plate, thereby further freeing up the shoes. 7. Bottom line is that you need to get the shoes retracted (and unstuck) from the drum to get them off. 8. If all else fails, go to AutoZone and borrow the biggest three arm puller they have. Steve Kirby President China Auto Group 22831 Avenida Empresa Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA Direct: (949) 261-8208 Fax: (949) 767-5949 Cell: (949) 903-0957 Skype: steve.kirby29 www.chinaautogroup.com From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Adrian Jones Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2021 2:15 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes Hi folks, I got the car jacked up and the back wheels off. Now I'm looking at the back brakes. The driver's side drum is locked up; the passenger side I can rotate. I can't get either drum off, despite banging on them with a rubber mallet. (I've taken out the 2 flat screws) Any ideas? Cheers -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed Jul 21 16:12:19 2021 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 16:12:19 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes In-Reply-To: <020901d77e7c$59239e70$0b6adb50$@net> References: <01fb01d77e75$6bcf9a80$436ecf80$@net> <020901d77e7c$59239e70$0b6adb50$@net> Message-ID: <3c9f11d4-02d4-9e88-a701-9e1135f2c064@porterscustom.com> Assure there is free play at the pedal. Rusted/corroded wheel cylinder piston. Shoes not centered in drum. Shoes not parallel to drum surface (canted). rear flex line collapsing internally and not releasing pressure, E-brake adjustment,? all sorts of reasons.. On 7/21/2021 4:04 PM, Adrian Jones wrote: > > Thanks for that Jerry. > > I?d forgotten that the square fitting was on the back! > > Loosened that (with the proper wrench) and the drums came right off. > > All I can see untoward is a bit of dust that I?ll vacuum off tomorrow > morning. > > Other than that it?s still puzzling why it locked up. > > Cheers! > > *From:*jerry van vlack [mailto:jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com] > *Sent:* Wednesday, July 21, 2021 5:25 PM > *To:* Adrian Jones; Triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* RE: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes > > You can try backing off the adjustment which is done by turning > ?(loosening) the square headed fitting opposite the wheel cylinder on > the back side of the backing plate .It?s a quarter inch square and you > can cobble together some quarter inch drive sockets to fit the > adjustment screw. If that doesn?t work try grinding the heads off of > the pins that hold the shoes tight against the backing plate. They > look like the head of a nail and are at 90 degrees from the wheel > cylinder. What you?re tring to do is release the shoes from the drum > thus allowing the drums to pull off. > > JVV > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > *From: *Adrian Jones > *Sent: *Wednesday, July 21, 2021 5:15 PM > *To: *Triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject: *[TR] TR3A Rear Brakes > > Hi folks, > > I got the car jacked up and the back wheels off. > > Now I?m looking at the back brakes. > > The driver?s side drum is locked up; the passenger side I can rotate. > > I can?t get either drum off, despite banging on them with a rubber mallet. > > (I?ve taken out the 2 flat screws) > > Any ideas? > > Cheers > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Wed Jul 21 16:34:52 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 17:34:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes In-Reply-To: <01fb01d77e75$6bcf9a80$436ecf80$@net> References: <01fb01d77e75$6bcf9a80$436ecf80$@net> Message-ID: <82E7EF27-4184-4D05-801F-E6E88EC7765E@yahoo.com> Open the bleeder valves, try a little heat, keep pounding. Use some liquid wrench or PB blaster, it is a snug fit with the drum on the studs. On the rear gently pry around the edges to work it off. Bill Last night I saw upon the stair, A little man who wasn't there, He wasn't there again today Oh, how I wish he'd go away.... Mearns On Jul 21, 2021, at 4:31 PM, Adrian Jones wrote: ? Hi folks, I got the car jacked up and the back wheels off. Now I?m looking at the back brakes. The driver?s side drum is locked up; the passenger side I can rotate. I can?t get either drum off, despite banging on them with a rubber mallet. (I?ve taken out the 2 flat screws) Any ideas? Cheers ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Jul 22 05:30:38 2021 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net) Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2021 07:30:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes In-Reply-To: <01fb01d77e75$6bcf9a80$436ecf80$@net> References: <01fb01d77e75$6bcf9a80$436ecf80$@net> Message-ID: <00dc01d77eed$0073d8a0$015b89e0$@uprichard.net> There is an adjuster on the rear of the backing plate - it takes a square wrench (or a 12-point socket). If they are not seized up, see if you can gently work them out. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Adrian Jones Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2021 5:15 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes Hi folks, I got the car jacked up and the back wheels off. Now I'm looking at the back brakes. The driver's side drum is locked up; the passenger side I can rotate. I can't get either drum off, despite banging on them with a rubber mallet. (I've taken out the 2 flat screws) Any ideas? Cheers -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Jul 22 05:34:55 2021 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net) Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2021 07:34:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes In-Reply-To: <00dc01d77eed$0073d8a0$015b89e0$@uprichard.net> References: <01fb01d77e75$6bcf9a80$436ecf80$@net> <00dc01d77eed$0073d8a0$015b89e0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <017601d77eed$98d984a0$ca8c8de0$@uprichard.net> Sorry, folks - I see I am way behind on this thread. I replied and shortly afterwards had a dump of about 20 emails, including the one which said the drums were off. Andrew From: Triumphs On Behalf Of auprichard at uprichard.net Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2021 7:31 AM To: 'Adrian Jones' ; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes There is an adjuster on the rear of the backing plate - it takes a square wrench (or a 12-point socket). If they are not seized up, see if you can gently work them out. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Adrian Jones Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2021 5:15 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes Hi folks, I got the car jacked up and the back wheels off. Now I'm looking at the back brakes. The driver's side drum is locked up; the passenger side I can rotate. I can't get either drum off, despite banging on them with a rubber mallet. (I've taken out the 2 flat screws) Any ideas? Cheers -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Thu Jul 22 05:47:20 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2021 11:47:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes In-Reply-To: <017601d77eed$98d984a0$ca8c8de0$@uprichard.net> References: <01fb01d77e75$6bcf9a80$436ecf80$@net> <00dc01d77eed$0073d8a0$015b89e0$@uprichard.net> <017601d77eed$98d984a0$ca8c8de0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <1555603754.78319.1626954440994@mail.yahoo.com> No worries.? It happens to me all the time.? (I'll bet someone else has already said as much) Dave -----Original Message----- From: auprichard at uprichard.net To: 'Adrian Jones' ; Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Jul 22, 2021 6:34 am Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes Sorry, folks ? I see I am way behind on this thread. I replied and shortly afterwards had a dump of about 20 emails, including the one which said the drums were off. ?Andrew ?From: Triumphs On Behalf Of auprichard at uprichard.net Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2021 7:31 AM To: 'Adrian Jones' ; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes ?There is an adjuster on the rear of the backing plate ? it takes a square wrench (or a 12-point socket).? If they are not seized up, see if you can gently work them out. ?Andrew UprichardJackson, Michigan ?From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Adrian Jones Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2021 5:15 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes ?Hi folks,I got the car jacked up and the back wheels off.Now I?m looking at the back brakes.The driver?s side drum is locked up; the passenger side I can rotate.I can?t get either drum off, despite banging on them with a rubber mallet.(I?ve taken out the 2 flat screws)Any ideas?Cheers** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com Fri Jul 16 13:51:57 2021 From: jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com (jerry van vlack) Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2021 15:51:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Engine Mounts In-Reply-To: <9038da06-590d-77b3-aa2f-c49bb9ce6a80@tonydrews.com> References: <1096940070.251623.1626461271008.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1096940070.251623.1626461271008@mail.yahoo.com>, <9038da06-590d-77b3-aa2f-c49bb9ce6a80@tonydrews.com> Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com Sun Jul 18 06:00:51 2021 From: jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com (jerry van vlack) Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2021 08:00:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Solenoid plate In-Reply-To: <90012BB3-B6D5-4ED8-A44B-390E81F3F732@fuse.net> References: , <90012BB3-B6D5-4ED8-A44B-390E81F3F732@fuse.net> Message-ID: <071AAF54-F3E3-4038-AF32-663CB1EC1A8B@hxcore.ol> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com Wed Jul 21 15:24:43 2021 From: jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com (jerry van vlack) Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 17:24:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brakes In-Reply-To: <01fb01d77e75$6bcf9a80$436ecf80$@net> References: <01fb01d77e75$6bcf9a80$436ecf80$@net> Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From PeterAra at msn.com Fri Jul 23 15:57:11 2021 From: PeterAra at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 21:57:11 +0000 Subject: [TR] Mixed Oil OK? Message-ID: Made a real rookie mistake....I needed to change the oil in my non-overdrive TR6 transmission. It had been filled with 90W GL5. I jacked up one side of the car to access the drain plug more easily, but I put the drain plug back in before I lowered the car and filled with Redline MTL-90. I figure there may be a cup of the old oil left behind because I did not lower the car before putting the plug back in. Am I in trouble or close enough? reality please, not theory. ________________________________ [https://secureimages.mcafee.com/common/affiliateImages/mfe/logo.png] Scanned by McAfee and confirmed virus-free. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mmarr at albiontechnical.com Fri Jul 23 19:23:08 2021 From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 01:23:08 +0000 Subject: [TR] Mixed Oil OK? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <98EA1C01-AC9A-41E0-83DE-348C9888AE00@albiontechnical.com> If it were me, I would have no second thoughts about driving it. Think of your mix as an ?EP enhanced GL4?. Donning fire suit now? Mike Sent from my iPhone On Jul 23, 2021, at 16:57, Peter Arakelian wrote: ? Made a real rookie mistake....I needed to change the oil in my non-overdrive TR6 transmission. It had been filled with 90W GL5. I jacked up one side of the car to access the drain plug more easily, but I put the drain plug back in before I lowered the car and filled with Redline MTL-90. I figure there may be a cup of the old oil left behind because I did not lower the car before putting the plug back in. Am I in trouble or close enough? reality please, not theory. ________________________________ [https://secureimages.mcafee.com/common/affiliateImages/mfe/logo.png] Scanned by McAfee and confirmed virus-free. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=Z6gQuiy16sSaaR1IbnXVUUotWWAed_nBZpwf0bPlLhc&s=vrSH-wZsVLJj2ewrfXWWNCniMfmeMxim_On5kr_pGiQ&e= Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=Z6gQuiy16sSaaR1IbnXVUUotWWAed_nBZpwf0bPlLhc&s=9x8_rlfV9OZtEIa1laTxzvnkQgmnXtQLeOtdrKn4GGk&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=Z6gQuiy16sSaaR1IbnXVUUotWWAed_nBZpwf0bPlLhc&s=zWSdLQ4aTRQgRouVt8YUYyvYGY_ELWxeXK8fppcltrU&e= Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=Z6gQuiy16sSaaR1IbnXVUUotWWAed_nBZpwf0bPlLhc&s=G_9UjzGXZ5vvj1V6Kkh8X3WXRAV3k2WI39Zw93SiiVk&e= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Jul 23 19:42:30 2021 From: tony at tonydrews.com (tony at tonydrews.com) Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 21:42:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Mixed Oil OK? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It is fine. The oils will not do anything bad mixed, and there?s not enough of the old oil left anyway. If that kind of thing did cause issues we would have heard many horror stories because it is a very common occurrence. Regards, Tony Drew?s On 2021-07-23 17:57, Peter Arakelian wrote: > Made a real rookie mistake....I needed to change the oil in my > non-overdrive TR6 transmission. It had been filled with 90W GL5. I > jacked up one side of the car to access the drain plug more easily, > but I put the drain plug back in before I lowered the car and filled > with Redline MTL-90. I figure there may be a cup of the old oil left > behind because I did not lower the car before putting the plug back > in. > Am I in trouble or close enough? reality please, not theory. > > ------------------------- > > [1] > Scanned by McAfee [1] and confirmed virus-free. > > > > Links: > ------ > [1] > https://home.mcafee.com/utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com From HDRider570 at att.net Sat Jul 24 13:08:35 2021 From: HDRider570 at att.net (Q) Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 12:08:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Mixed Oil OK? References: <3bdbc29a-603d-167b-34d4-f40566aac45b.ref@att.net> Message-ID: <3bdbc29a-603d-167b-34d4-f40566aac45b@att.net> Just as a note you should not use GL-5 trans oil in TR transmissions as it attacks the brass/bronze devices within such as sycro rings.? GL-4 rated is what is recommended. RedLine MTL seems fine and I have used it in several OD transmissions for years. Edward Hamer Petaluma CA From coefront at shaw.ca Sun Jul 25 12:19:58 2021 From: coefront at shaw.ca (Michael Coe) Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 12:19:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 166 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2A6FEECF-E1DA-4D82-ADFA-2EA8D0F32895@shaw.ca> Hi: I need a spare set of keys for my Triumph TR8. Any suggestions for a legitimate supplier? Cheers Mike Coe. Calgary. Alberta > On Jul 25, 2021, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to > triumphs at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > triumphs-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > triumphs-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Mixed Oil OK? (Q) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 12:08:35 -0700 > From: Q > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Mixed Oil OK? > Message-ID: <3bdbc29a-603d-167b-34d4-f40566aac45b at att.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > Just as a note you should not use GL-5 trans oil in TR transmissions as > it attacks the brass/bronze devices within such as sycro rings.? GL-4 > rated is what is recommended. > > RedLine MTL seems fine and I have used it in several OD transmissions > for years. > > > Edward Hamer > > Petaluma CA > > > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 166 > ***************************************** From bk13 at earthlink.net Sun Jul 25 15:13:48 2021 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 14:13:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR8 Keys In-Reply-To: <2A6FEECF-E1DA-4D82-ADFA-2EA8D0F32895@shaw.ca> References: <2A6FEECF-E1DA-4D82-ADFA-2EA8D0F32895@shaw.ca> Message-ID: Check a local locksmith.? I was able to get keys made for both my TR6 and GT6 from blanks they had in stock. On 7/25/2021 11:19 AM, Michael Coe wrote: > > Hi: > > I need a spare set of keys for my Triumph TR8. > > Any suggestions for a legitimate supplier? > > Cheers > Mike Coe. Calgary. Alberta > > > > >> On Jul 25, 2021, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: >> >> Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to >> triumphs at autox.team.net >> >> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to >> triumphs-request at autox.team.net >> >> You can reach the person managing the list at >> triumphs-owner at autox.team.net >> >> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." >> >> >> Today's Topics: >> >> 1. Re: Mixed Oil OK? (Q) >> >> >> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >> Message: 1 >> Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 12:08:35 -0700 >> From: Q >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [TR] Mixed Oil OK? >> Message-ID: <3bdbc29a-603d-167b-34d4-f40566aac45b at att.net> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed >> >> Just as a note you should not use GL-5 trans oil in TR transmissions as >> it attacks the brass/bronze devices within such as sycro rings.? GL-4 >> rated is what is recommended. >> >> RedLine MTL seems fine and I have used it in several OD transmissions >> for years. >> >> >> Edward Hamer >> >> Petaluma CA >> >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Subject: Digest Footer >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Triumphs mailing list >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 166 >> ***************************************** > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net From trguy75 at gmail.com Sun Jul 25 15:57:59 2021 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 17:57:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Timing chain TR4A Message-ID: <00b401d781a0$221d3950$6657abf0$@gmail.com> Ok, Since I am already down to having all the parts removed to do the timing cover oil seal and gasket, I am thinking of just doing the chain. I believe it has been changed once, the gap is 8mm per the factory manual which is less than the 10mm recommended for a change. Tensioner still looks shiny without much wear from chain at all. I have bever changed the chain. Have the sprockets aligned at TDC marks. How do I 1) remove the chain and 2) install the new one. Does a link pin get removed? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Jim henningsen Ocala, FL 61 3A "Lord Neville" 67 4A "Sir Charles" named in honor of Charles Runyan 75 6 "Ms. Molly" She is a bit butch 81 8 "Sir Stirling" From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Jul 25 16:36:21 2021 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net) Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 18:36:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Timing chain TR4A In-Reply-To: <00b401d781a0$221d3950$6657abf0$@gmail.com> References: <00b401d781a0$221d3950$6657abf0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <009a01d781a5$7f0af350$7d20d9f0$@uprichard.net> Jim: just unbolt the sprocket on the cam and swap out the chains. Very straightforward. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Jim Henningsen Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2021 5:58 PM To: 'TR List' Subject: [TR] Timing chain TR4A Ok, Since I am already down to having all the parts removed to do the timing cover oil seal and gasket, I am thinking of just doing the chain. I believe it has been changed once, the gap is 8mm per the factory manual which is less than the 10mm recommended for a change. Tensioner still looks shiny without much wear from chain at all. I have bever changed the chain. Have the sprockets aligned at TDC marks. How do I 1) remove the chain and 2) install the new one. Does a link pin get removed? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Jim henningsen Ocala, FL 61 3A "Lord Neville" 67 4A "Sir Charles" named in honor of Charles Runyan 75 6 "Ms. Molly" She is a bit butch 81 8 "Sir Stirling" ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From grglmn at gmail.com Sun Jul 25 17:18:51 2021 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 18:18:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Timing chain TR4A In-Reply-To: <009a01d781a5$7f0af350$7d20d9f0$@uprichard.net> References: <00b401d781a0$221d3950$6657abf0$@gmail.com> <009a01d781a5$7f0af350$7d20d9f0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Back in the dark ages, when I did my first chain replacement we had no internet, and I don't know what I had for a manual. Anyway, the logical way to take the chain apart and put it on so as not to disturb timing. I was a little stumped when the chain didn't have a master link, but pushed on, prying off a link and then somehow (lost in distant memory) peened the ends with the chain on the car engine and engine in the car. It never came apart in many years and thousands of miles after. Still would recommend removing the gears and fitting together as Richard has suggested. Greg Lemon TR250 On Sun, Jul 25, 2021, 5:39 PM wrote: > Jim: just unbolt the sprocket on the cam and swap out the chains. Very > straightforward. > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Jim > Henningsen > Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2021 5:58 PM > To: 'TR List' > Subject: [TR] Timing chain TR4A > > Ok, > Since I am already down to having all the parts removed to do the timing > cover oil seal and gasket, I am thinking of just doing the chain. I > believe > it has been changed once, the gap is 8mm per the factory manual which is > less than the 10mm recommended for a change. Tensioner still looks shiny > without much wear from chain at all. I have bever changed the chain. Have > the sprockets aligned at TDC marks. How do I 1) remove the chain and 2) > install the new one. Does a link pin get removed? Any help would be > greatly appreciated! > Jim henningsen > Ocala, FL > 61 3A "Lord Neville" > 67 4A "Sir Charles" named in honor of Charles Runyan > 75 6 "Ms. Molly" She is a bit butch > 81 8 "Sir Stirling" > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lee at automate-it.com Sun Jul 25 20:54:56 2021 From: lee at automate-it.com (lee at automate-it.com) Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 21:54:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR8 Keys In-Reply-To: <2A6FEECF-E1DA-4D82-ADFA-2EA8D0F32895@shaw.ca> References: <2A6FEECF-E1DA-4D82-ADFA-2EA8D0F32895@shaw.ca> Message-ID: <552509016984f972042150a0cd7c7059@automate-it.com> The go-to for British keys has been Pete Groh. The web site appears to be still active, check it out and let us know how it goes: http://britishcarkeys.com/ Cheers, Lee On 2021-07-25 13:19, Michael Coe wrote: > Hi: > > I need a spare set of keys for my Triumph TR8. > > Any suggestions for a legitimate supplier? > > Cheers > Mike Coe. Calgary. Alberta From artfournier4 at gmail.com Mon Jul 26 13:20:10 2021 From: artfournier4 at gmail.com (Arthur Fournier) Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2021 15:20:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR8 Keys Message-ID: I bought key blanks for my TR8 from The Roadster Factory then had them cut at a local hardware store. Because I provided the blanks, the hardware store wouldn't charge me to cut the keys. Art Fournier ----------- > Hi: > > I need a spare set of keys for my Triumph TR8. > > Any suggestions for a legitimate supplier? > > Cheers > Mike Coe. Calgary. Alberta -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Mon Jul 26 14:04:46 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2021 15:04:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR8 Keys In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000501d78259$7ccf9c80$766ed580$@ranteer.com> I brought a beautiful MG logo key to a local keysmith to be cut. He screwed it up. and didn?t charge me either. Or reimburse me for the logo key he ruined. From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Arthur Fournier Sent: Monday, July 26, 2021 2:20 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR8 Keys I bought key blanks for my TR8 from The Roadster Factory then had them cut at a local hardware store. Because I provided the blanks, the hardware store wouldn't charge me to cut the keys. Art Fournier ----------- > Hi: > > I need a spare set of keys for my Triumph TR8. > > Any suggestions for a legitimate supplier? > > Cheers > Mike Coe. Calgary. Alberta -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Jul 27 05:41:20 2021 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2021 07:41:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Timing chain TR4A In-Reply-To: <009a01d781a5$7f0af350$7d20d9f0$@uprichard.net> References: <00b401d781a0$221d3950$6657abf0$@gmail.com> <009a01d781a5$7f0af350$7d20d9f0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: My only add is to make sure you don't flip the gears over during the swap. Flipping the gears can change timing 1/4 to 1/2 a tooth. That flipping is used to fine tune cam timing during set up. Chris -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davgil at aol.com Wed Jul 28 13:03:55 2021 From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com) Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2021 19:03:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system References: <1663583430.397426.1627499035209.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1663583430.397426.1627499035209@mail.yahoo.com> I just replaced the fuel tank in my 1976 TR6 and after a short drive, I noticed a leak coming from the vent connection on top of the tank.? I tightened the nut on the connection, but don't really understand why there would be gas in the vent line.? I also noticed that when I opened the fuel cap, there was a hiss like a suction.? I feel that either the vent line, which seems open when I blow air through it from the cannister attachment or the carb bowls (ZS 175s) may be too full and there is a vacuum that is pulling fuel out of the bowls.? My TR6 does run rich.? I don't understand why there would be a vacuum in the tank.? Also, I noticed a bit of oil around the oil fill cap which I have never seen before.? I checked the oil and the level seems correct.? I thought I smelled a bit of gas in it, but that may have been a bit of imagination on my part.? Any suggestions would be appreciated.Regards,David Gill1976 TR6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Wed Jul 28 18:06:39 2021 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2021 18:06:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] Stag V8 Message-ID: https://driving.ca/auto-news/entertainment/triumphs-v8-the-worst-engine-ever-made mjb. From fishplate at gmail.com Thu Jul 29 18:20:56 2021 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2021 20:20:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system In-Reply-To: <1663583430.397426.1627499035209@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1663583430.397426.1627499035209.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1663583430.397426.1627499035209@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Is the switch/valve on the bottom of the carbon canister operating correctly? Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. On Wed, Jul 28, 2021 at 3:04 PM wrote: > > I just replaced the fuel tank in my 1976 TR6 and after a short drive, I noticed a leak coming from the vent connection on top of the tank. I tightened the nut on the connection, but don't really understand why there would be gas in the vent line. I also noticed that when I opened the fuel cap, there was a hiss like a suction. I feel that either the vent line, which seems open when I blow air through it from the cannister attachment or the carb bowls (ZS 175s) may be too full and there is a vacuum that is pulling fuel out of the bowls. My TR6 does run rich. I don't understand why there would be a vacuum in the tank. Also, I noticed a bit of oil around the oil fill cap which I have never seen before. I checked the oil and the level seems correct. I thought I smelled a bit of gas in it, but that may have been a bit of imagination on my part. Any suggestions would be appreciated. > Regards, > David Gill > 1976 TR6 > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com From ptegler at verizon.net Thu Jul 29 18:44:49 2021 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2021 20:44:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system In-Reply-To: References: <1663583430.397426.1627499035209.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1663583430.397426.1627499035209@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: tank vent itself is clogged. Pump fuel out without a vent creates a vaccuum ope nthe cap and wooosh ptegler On 7/29/2021 8:20 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > Is the switch/valve on the bottom of the carbon canister operating correctly? > > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > > On Wed, Jul 28, 2021 at 3:04 PM wrote: >> I just replaced the fuel tank in my 1976 TR6 and after a short drive, I noticed a leak coming from the vent connection on top of the tank. I tightened the nut on the connection, but don't really understand why there would be gas in the vent line. I also noticed that when I opened the fuel cap, there was a hiss like a suction. I feel that either the vent line, which seems open when I blow air through it from the cannister attachment or the carb bowls (ZS 175s) may be too full and there is a vacuum that is pulling fuel out of the bowls. My TR6 does run rich. I don't understand why there would be a vacuum in the tank. Also, I noticed a bit of oil around the oil fill cap which I have never seen before. I checked the oil and the level seems correct. I thought I smelled a bit of gas in it, but that may have been a bit of imagination on my part. Any suggestions would be appreciated. >> Regards, >> David Gill >> 1976 TR6 >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com From davgil at aol.com Thu Jul 29 20:12:32 2021 From: davgil at aol.com (DAVID GILL) Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2021 22:12:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5D67816F-E6C7-43BA-A48E-00CE3ED214C2@aol.com> I don?t know. Will be checking on it tomorrow. The vent line from the tank to the canister seems partially obstructed. I can blow air through it but cannot get much of a flow through. I plan to run a new steel brake line from the vent to replace the plastic one. Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 29, 2021, at 8:21 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > > ?Is the switch/valve on the bottom of the carbon canister operating correctly? > > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > >> On Wed, Jul 28, 2021 at 3:04 PM wrote: >> >> I just replaced the fuel tank in my 1976 TR6 and after a short drive, I noticed a leak coming from the vent connection on top of the tank. I tightened the nut on the connection, but don't really understand why there would be gas in the vent line. I also noticed that when I opened the fuel cap, there was a hiss like a suction. I feel that either the vent line, which seems open when I blow air through it from the cannister attachment or the carb bowls (ZS 175s) may be too full and there is a vacuum that is pulling fuel out of the bowls. My TR6 does run rich. I don't understand why there would be a vacuum in the tank. Also, I noticed a bit of oil around the oil fill cap which I have never seen before. I checked the oil and the level seems correct. I thought I smelled a bit of gas in it, but that may have been a bit of imagination on my part. Any suggestions would be appreciated. >> Regards, >> David Gill >> 1976 TR6 >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com From jeffn at msystech.com Thu Jul 29 22:06:08 2021 From: jeffn at msystech.com (Jeff Nathanson) Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2021 00:06:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 LED headlamps Message-ID: <001301d784f8$3a0c27f0$ae2477d0$@msystech.com> I was driving my 1972 TR6 one night and noticed how dark the roads seem (compared to my new car). I have Sylvania halogen headlamps in the 6, and was told that LED is the way to go. Are there any suggestions (other than drive with the high beams). There seems to be a lot of contradicting messages on the web like the need to change the wiring, or add a relay, change the switch, and more. Are there any avenues to avoid? Thanking in advance, Jeff N. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jul 30 05:36:59 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2021 11:36:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system In-Reply-To: References: <1663583430.397426.1627499035209.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1663583430.397426.1627499035209@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1703288029.797273.1627645019318@mail.yahoo.com> It could be many things.? I had an issue like this but the engine died after a few minutes.? When I opened the gas filler there was a great rush of air and the tank oil-canned.? My problem turned out to be the vinyl hose leading from the trunk area to the engine bar had sagged down and contacted the exhaust system and melted shut. Make sure your system is per design and not missing something.? There is typically a liquid/vapor separator near the tank.? If that was bypassed you will get liquid fuel where it shouldn't be. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Scarbrough To: davgil at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Jul 29, 2021 7:20 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system Is the switch/valve on the bottom of the carbon canister operating correctly? Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. On Wed, Jul 28, 2021 at 3:04 PM wrote: > > I just replaced the fuel tank in my 1976 TR6 and after a short drive, I noticed a leak coming from the vent connection on top of the tank.? I tightened the nut on the connection, but don't really understand why there would be gas in the vent line.? I also noticed that when I opened the fuel cap, there was a hiss like a suction.? I feel that either the vent line, which seems open when I blow air through it from the cannister attachment or the carb bowls (ZS 175s) may be too full and there is a vacuum that is pulling fuel out of the bowls.? My TR6 does run rich.? I don't understand why there would be a vacuum in the tank.? Also, I noticed a bit of oil around the oil fill cap which I have never seen before.? I checked the oil and the level seems correct.? I thought I smelled a bit of gas in it, but that may have been a bit of imagination on my part.? Any suggestions would be appreciated. > Regards, > David Gill > 1976 TR6 > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertrudolphi at yahoo.com Fri Jul 30 05:52:23 2021 From: robertrudolphi at yahoo.com (robert rudolphi) Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2021 11:52:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR6 LED headlamps In-Reply-To: <001301d784f8$3a0c27f0$ae2477d0$@msystech.com> References: <001301d784f8$3a0c27f0$ae2477d0$@msystech.com> Message-ID: <882864560.615860.1627645943721@mail.yahoo.com> My first suggestion is to get the Moss headlight relay kit, made a huge difference in my 74 TR6. Make sure it is the Moss unit not the Victoria British as I started down that route and could not figure out how to wire it in, the Moss unit was simple. On Friday, July 30, 2021, 12:07:46 AM EDT, Jeff Nathanson wrote: I was driving my 1972 TR6? one night and noticed how dark the roads seem (compared to my new car). I have Sylvania halogen headlamps in the 6, and was told that LED is the way to go. Are there any suggestions (other than drive with the high beams). There seems to be a lot of contradicting messages on the web like the need to change the wiring, or add a relay, change the switch, and more. Are there any avenues to avoid? ? Thanking in advance, Jeff N. ? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs??http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/robertrudolphi at yahoo.com From keithstewart at bell.net Fri Jul 30 15:41:30 2021 From: keithstewart at bell.net (keithstewart at bell.net) Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2021 17:41:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 LED headlamps In-Reply-To: <001301d784f8$3a0c27f0$ae2477d0$@msystech.com> References: <001301d784f8$3a0c27f0$ae2477d0$@msystech.com> Message-ID: <41d201d7858b$a88f2220$f9ad6660$@bell.net> My wife had exactly the same complaint in her TR6. You could do an easy Quartz Halogen or LED conversion, but there is more to the situation. She wanted me to install a pair of Driving Lights to increase illumination. I asked that she let me try something first and if it still was not bright enough, I would add the Driving Lights later. Part of the problem is the number of switches and junctions that the wiring goes through before the filament is lighted up. Every one of the red circled junction points creates resistance and results in a loss of power getting to the bulb filaments. What I did was a bit more costly, but boy did it make a difference. I wrote up the conversion for our club magazine, the Toronto Triumph Club?s Ragtop, and am happy to share it if you like, just email me. I used the Advance Auto Wire Headlamp kit (http://www.advanceautowire.com/) to separately fuse each filament (right, left hi, low) and use relays to provide the power to each pair of filaments. In this case, your existing lighting switch only manages the limited power to switch the relay. The power to the actual filament comes straight from the battery/starter. Therefore, far more power reaches the filament when the bulb is energized. This change alone is likely to increase the amount of light on the road. There are other kits on the market, but IMHO, not as high a quality as the AAW. If you know your wiring, you can do the individual components yourself. Additionally, I added Cibi? quartz halogen Headlamp conversions. The amount of light on the road is AMAZING. She did not want the driving lights after she experienced the difference. Keith Stewart keithstewart at bell.net _____ From: Jeff Nathanson Sent: July 30, 2021 12:06 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 LED headlamps I was driving my 1972 TR6 one night and noticed how dark the roads seem (compared to my new car). I have Sylvania halogen headlamps in the 6, and was told that LED is the way to go. Are there any suggestions (other than drive with the high beams). There seems to be a lot of contradicting messages on the web like the need to change the wiring, or add a relay, change the switch, and more. Are there any avenues to avoid? Thanking in advance, Jeff N. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 170762 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Fri Jul 30 16:56:44 2021 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2021 18:56:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 LED headlamps In-Reply-To: <41d201d7858b$a88f2220$f9ad6660$@bell.net> References: <41d201d7858b$a88f2220$f9ad6660$@bell.net> Message-ID: <544477C5-F32D-4098-BEE6-0268324D4741@fuse.net> Hi Keith, I would also add that the physical wires in the ?high current? circuits in the AAW headlight harness are larger with more strands than other kits. Dave Connitt Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 30, 2021, at 5:42 PM, keithstewart at bell.net wrote: > > ? > My wife had exactly the same complaint in her TR6. You could do an easy Quartz Halogen or LED conversion, but there is more to the situation. She wanted me to install a pair of Driving Lights to increase illumination. I asked that she let me try something first and if it still was not bright enough, I would add the Driving Lights later. > > Part of the problem is the number of switches and junctions that the wiring goes through before the filament is lighted up. > > Every one of the red circled junction points creates resistance and results in a loss of power getting to the bulb filaments. What I did was a bit more costly, but boy did it make a difference. I wrote up the conversion for our club magazine, the Toronto Triumph Club?s Ragtop, and am happy to share it if you like, just email me. > > I used the Advance Auto Wire Headlamp kit (http://www.advanceautowire.com/) to separately fuse each filament (right, left hi, low) and use relays to provide the power to each pair of filaments. In this case, your existing lighting switch only manages the limited power to switch the relay. The power to the actual filament comes straight from the battery/starter. Therefore, far more power reaches the filament when the bulb is energized. This change alone is likely to increase the amount of light on the road. There are other kits on the market, but IMHO, not as high a quality as the AAW. If you know your wiring, you can do the individual components yourself. Additionally, I added Cibi? quartz halogen Headlamp conversions. > > The amount of light on the road is AMAZING. She did not want the driving lights after she experienced the difference. > > > Keith Stewart > keithstewart at bell.net > > > > From: Jeff Nathanson > Sent: July 30, 2021 12:06 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR6 LED headlamps > > I was driving my 1972 TR6 one night and noticed how dark the roads seem (compared to my new car). I have Sylvania halogen headlamps in the 6, and was told that LED is the way to go. Are there any suggestions (other than drive with the high beams). There seems to be a lot of contradicting messages on the web like the need to change the wiring, or add a relay, change the switch, and more. Are there any avenues to avoid? > > Thanking in advance, > Jeff N. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From aljlthomson at charter.net Fri Jul 30 18:52:28 2021 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2021 20:52:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 LED headlamps In-Reply-To: <41d201d7858b$a88f2220$f9ad6660$@bell.net> References: <001301d784f8$3a0c27f0$ae2477d0$@msystech.com> <41d201d7858b$a88f2220$f9ad6660$@bell.net> Message-ID: <001b01d785a6$5648b5b0$02da2110$@charter.net> Don?t forget that the feed or the hot side of the circuit is one part of the big picture and that the ground side is just as important. Check the quality of all of the ground connections for the headlight connectors as well as the connection between the engine block and the body. A voltmeter should show less than 0.1 volt when the probes are placed at the ground (negative) post of the battery and the ground terminal of each headlight. Conversely, there should be less than 0.2 volts when the probes are placed at the positive terminal of the battery and each of the hot terminals of the headlights. Your voltmeter test probes may not be long enough to do that but you should get the picture. Some folks may suggest that my voltage values are unrealistically low, but it is a goal. Ideally, the total voltage available across the terminal posts of the battery should be dissipated across the bulb filament with no appreciable voltage drops in either the insulated or ground circuits. Testing for these voltage drops is always done with the headlights on. Alex Thomson From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of keithstewart at bell.net Sent: Friday, July 30, 2021 5:42 PM To: 'Jeff Nathanson'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 LED headlamps My wife had exactly the same complaint in her TR6. You could do an easy Quartz Halogen or LED conversion, but there is more to the situation. She wanted me to install a pair of Driving Lights to increase illumination. I asked that she let me try something first and if it still was not bright enough, I would add the Driving Lights later. Part of the problem is the number of switches and junctions that the wiring goes through before the filament is lighted up. Diagram Description automatically generated Every one of the red circled junction points creates resistance and results in a loss of power getting to the bulb filaments. What I did was a bit more costly, but boy did it make a difference. I wrote up the conversion for our club magazine, the Toronto Triumph Club?s Ragtop, and am happy to share it if you like, just email me. I used the Advance Auto Wire Headlamp kit (http://www.advanceautowire.com/) to separately fuse each filament (right, left hi, low) and use relays to provide the power to each pair of filaments. In this case, your existing lighting switch only manages the limited power to switch the relay. The power to the actual filament comes straight from the battery/starter. Therefore, far more power reaches the filament when the bulb is energized. This change alone is likely to increase the amount of light on the road. There are other kits on the market, but IMHO, not as high a quality as the AAW. If you know your wiring, you can do the individual components yourself. Additionally, I added Cibi? quartz halogen Headlamp conversions. The amount of light on the road is AMAZING. She did not want the driving lights after she experienced the difference. Keith Stewart keithstewart at bell.net _____ From: Jeff Nathanson Sent: July 30, 2021 12:06 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 LED headlamps I was driving my 1972 TR6 one night and noticed how dark the roads seem (compared to my new car). I have Sylvania halogen headlamps in the 6, and was told that LED is the way to go. Are there any suggestions (other than drive with the high beams). There seems to be a lot of contradicting messages on the web like the need to change the wiring, or add a relay, change the switch, and more. Are there any avenues to avoid? Thanking in advance, Jeff N. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 170762 bytes Desc: not available URL: From davgil at aol.com Sat Jul 31 09:51:20 2021 From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com) Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2021 15:51:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system In-Reply-To: <1703288029.797273.1627645019318@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1663583430.397426.1627499035209.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1663583430.397426.1627499035209@mail.yahoo.com> <1703288029.797273.1627645019318@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1612745952.1008100.1627746680060@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks Dave and Jeff.??I think that while the vent line may be partially blocked, it is sufficiently open to pass vapor and fuel.? I think that Jeff may have hit on the problem being the anit-run on valve.? ?I was working on the fuel system, I think that I have inadvertently knocked a couple of connections off of the oil pressure sending unit.? My gauge registers oil pressure properly, and that wire was not disconnected.? However, if I put the two wires back on one way, the oil pressure warning light comes on and stays on.? This is clearly wrong, so I reversed the wires.? I cannot tell if the anti-run on valve is now working properly.? I did note that when one of? the wires accidently touched the oil pressure wire, I saw a spark and clearly heard a click at the anti-run on valve solenoid.? However, when I connected the wire to the other post on the sending unit, I could not hear a click when cranking or shutting down the engine.? I have looked through my Haynes manual, but don't see a diagnostic procedure and the only wiring diagram I have is for a RHD PI unit.? Mine is LHD carbureted.? Any advice as to how to verify the correct wiring for the anti-run on valve?David -----Original Message----- From: DAVID MASSEY To: fishplate at gmail.com ; davgil at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Jul 30, 2021 7:36 am Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system It could be many things.? I had an issue like this but the engine died after a few minutes.? When I opened the gas filler there was a great rush of air and the tank oil-canned.? My problem turned out to be the vinyl hose leading from the trunk area to the engine bar had sagged down and contacted the exhaust system and melted shut. Make sure your system is per design and not missing something.? There is typically a liquid/vapor separator near the tank.? If that was bypassed you will get liquid fuel where it shouldn't be. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Scarbrough To: davgil at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Jul 29, 2021 7:20 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system Is the switch/valve on the bottom of the carbon canister operating correctly? Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. On Wed, Jul 28, 2021 at 3:04 PM wrote: > > I just replaced the fuel tank in my 1976 TR6 and after a short drive, I noticed a leak coming from the vent connection on top of the tank.? I tightened the nut on the connection, but don't really understand why there would be gas in the vent line.? I also noticed that when I opened the fuel cap, there was a hiss like a suction.? I feel that either the vent line, which seems open when I blow air through it from the cannister attachment or the carb bowls (ZS 175s) may be too full and there is a vacuum that is pulling fuel out of the bowls.? My TR6 does run rich.? I don't understand why there would be a vacuum in the tank.? Also, I noticed a bit of oil around the oil fill cap which I have never seen before.? I checked the oil and the level seems correct.? I thought I smelled a bit of gas in it, but that may have been a bit of imagination on my part.? Any suggestions would be appreciated. > Regards, > David Gill > 1976 TR6 > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jul 31 10:25:54 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2021 16:25:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system In-Reply-To: <1612745952.1008100.1627746680060@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1663583430.397426.1627499035209.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1663583430.397426.1627499035209@mail.yahoo.com> <1703288029.797273.1627645019318@mail.yahoo.com> <1612745952.1008100.1627746680060@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1484315199.886099.1627748754213@mail.yahoo.com> My experience is that if the valve is energized while the engine is running the care will not idle or will idle very poorly at best.? Do you have any such symptoms? Dave -----Original Message----- From: davgil at aol.com To: dave1massey at cs.com ; fishplate at gmail.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Jul 31, 2021 10:51 am Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system Thanks Dave and Jeff.??I think that while the vent line may be partially blocked, it is sufficiently open to pass vapor and fuel.? I think that Jeff may have hit on the problem being the anit-run on valve.? ?I was working on the fuel system, I think that I have inadvertently knocked a couple of connections off of the oil pressure sending unit.? My gauge registers oil pressure properly, and that wire was not disconnected.? However, if I put the two wires back on one way, the oil pressure warning light comes on and stays on.? This is clearly wrong, so I reversed the wires.? I cannot tell if the anti-run on valve is now working properly.? I did note that when one of? the wires accidently touched the oil pressure wire, I saw a spark and clearly heard a click at the anti-run on valve solenoid.? However, when I connected the wire to the other post on the sending unit, I could not hear a click when cranking or shutting down the engine.? I have looked through my Haynes manual, but don't see a diagnostic procedure and the only wiring diagram I have is for a RHD PI unit.? Mine is LHD carbureted.? Any advice as to how to verify the correct wiring for the anti-run on valve?David -----Original Message----- From: DAVID MASSEY To: fishplate at gmail.com ; davgil at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Jul 30, 2021 7:36 am Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system It could be many things.? I had an issue like this but the engine died after a few minutes.? When I opened the gas filler there was a great rush of air and the tank oil-canned.? My problem turned out to be the vinyl hose leading from the trunk area to the engine bar had sagged down and contacted the exhaust system and melted shut. Make sure your system is per design and not missing something.? There is typically a liquid/vapor separator near the tank.? If that was bypassed you will get liquid fuel where it shouldn't be. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Scarbrough To: davgil at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Jul 29, 2021 7:20 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system Is the switch/valve on the bottom of the carbon canister operating correctly? Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. On Wed, Jul 28, 2021 at 3:04 PM wrote: > > I just replaced the fuel tank in my 1976 TR6 and after a short drive, I noticed a leak coming from the vent connection on top of the tank.? I tightened the nut on the connection, but don't really understand why there would be gas in the vent line.? I also noticed that when I opened the fuel cap, there was a hiss like a suction.? I feel that either the vent line, which seems open when I blow air through it from the cannister attachment or the carb bowls (ZS 175s) may be too full and there is a vacuum that is pulling fuel out of the bowls.? My TR6 does run rich.? I don't understand why there would be a vacuum in the tank.? Also, I noticed a bit of oil around the oil fill cap which I have never seen before.? I checked the oil and the level seems correct.? I thought I smelled a bit of gas in it, but that may have been a bit of imagination on my part.? Any suggestions would be appreciated. > Regards, > David Gill > 1976 TR6 > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davgil at aol.com Sat Jul 31 10:34:15 2021 From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com) Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2021 16:34:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system In-Reply-To: <1484315199.886099.1627748754213@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1663583430.397426.1627499035209.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1663583430.397426.1627499035209@mail.yahoo.com> <1703288029.797273.1627645019318@mail.yahoo.com> <1612745952.1008100.1627746680060@mail.yahoo.com> <1484315199.886099.1627748754213@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1557625603.1011291.1627749255897@mail.yahoo.com> I'll reconnect everything and give that a try.? Thanks Dave. -----Original Message----- From: DAVID MASSEY To: davgil at aol.com ; fishplate at gmail.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Jul 31, 2021 12:25 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system My experience is that if the valve is energized while the engine is running the care will not idle or will idle very poorly at best.? Do you have any such symptoms? Dave -----Original Message----- From: davgil at aol.com To: dave1massey at cs.com ; fishplate at gmail.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Jul 31, 2021 10:51 am Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system Thanks Dave and Jeff.??I think that while the vent line may be partially blocked, it is sufficiently open to pass vapor and fuel.? I think that Jeff may have hit on the problem being the anit-run on valve.? ?I was working on the fuel system, I think that I have inadvertently knocked a couple of connections off of the oil pressure sending unit.? My gauge registers oil pressure properly, and that wire was not disconnected.? However, if I put the two wires back on one way, the oil pressure warning light comes on and stays on.? This is clearly wrong, so I reversed the wires.? I cannot tell if the anti-run on valve is now working properly.? I did note that when one of? the wires accidently touched the oil pressure wire, I saw a spark and clearly heard a click at the anti-run on valve solenoid.? However, when I connected the wire to the other post on the sending unit, I could not hear a click when cranking or shutting down the engine.? I have looked through my Haynes manual, but don't see a diagnostic procedure and the only wiring diagram I have is for a RHD PI unit.? Mine is LHD carbureted.? Any advice as to how to verify the correct wiring for the anti-run on valve?David -----Original Message----- From: DAVID MASSEY To: fishplate at gmail.com ; davgil at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Jul 30, 2021 7:36 am Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system It could be many things.? I had an issue like this but the engine died after a few minutes.? When I opened the gas filler there was a great rush of air and the tank oil-canned.? My problem turned out to be the vinyl hose leading from the trunk area to the engine bar had sagged down and contacted the exhaust system and melted shut. Make sure your system is per design and not missing something.? There is typically a liquid/vapor separator near the tank.? If that was bypassed you will get liquid fuel where it shouldn't be. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Scarbrough To: davgil at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Jul 29, 2021 7:20 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system Is the switch/valve on the bottom of the carbon canister operating correctly? Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. On Wed, Jul 28, 2021 at 3:04 PM wrote: > > I just replaced the fuel tank in my 1976 TR6 and after a short drive, I noticed a leak coming from the vent connection on top of the tank.? I tightened the nut on the connection, but don't really understand why there would be gas in the vent line.? I also noticed that when I opened the fuel cap, there was a hiss like a suction.? I feel that either the vent line, which seems open when I blow air through it from the cannister attachment or the carb bowls (ZS 175s) may be too full and there is a vacuum that is pulling fuel out of the bowls.? My TR6 does run rich.? I don't understand why there would be a vacuum in the tank.? Also, I noticed a bit of oil around the oil fill cap which I have never seen before.? I checked the oil and the level seems correct.? I thought I smelled a bit of gas in it, but that may have been a bit of imagination on my part.? Any suggestions would be appreciated. > Regards, > David Gill > 1976 TR6 > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davgil at aol.com Sat Jul 31 10:36:07 2021 From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com) Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2021 16:36:07 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system In-Reply-To: <1484315199.886099.1627748754213@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1663583430.397426.1627499035209.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1663583430.397426.1627499035209@mail.yahoo.com> <1703288029.797273.1627645019318@mail.yahoo.com> <1612745952.1008100.1627746680060@mail.yahoo.com> <1484315199.886099.1627748754213@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <244510559.889240.1627749367497@mail.yahoo.com> It was running fine before I noted that I was getting a vacuum in the tank.? I'll reconnect everything since I have the wires reconnected in what I think is the proper way and give it another test run to see.? Thanks Dave.David -----Original Message----- From: DAVID MASSEY To: davgil at aol.com ; fishplate at gmail.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Jul 31, 2021 12:25 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system My experience is that if the valve is energized while the engine is running the care will not idle or will idle very poorly at best.? Do you have any such symptoms? Dave -----Original Message----- From: davgil at aol.com To: dave1massey at cs.com ; fishplate at gmail.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Jul 31, 2021 10:51 am Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system Thanks Dave and Jeff.??I think that while the vent line may be partially blocked, it is sufficiently open to pass vapor and fuel.? I think that Jeff may have hit on the problem being the anit-run on valve.? ?I was working on the fuel system, I think that I have inadvertently knocked a couple of connections off of the oil pressure sending unit.? My gauge registers oil pressure properly, and that wire was not disconnected.? However, if I put the two wires back on one way, the oil pressure warning light comes on and stays on.? This is clearly wrong, so I reversed the wires.? I cannot tell if the anti-run on valve is now working properly.? I did note that when one of? the wires accidently touched the oil pressure wire, I saw a spark and clearly heard a click at the anti-run on valve solenoid.? However, when I connected the wire to the other post on the sending unit, I could not hear a click when cranking or shutting down the engine.? I have looked through my Haynes manual, but don't see a diagnostic procedure and the only wiring diagram I have is for a RHD PI unit.? Mine is LHD carbureted.? Any advice as to how to verify the correct wiring for the anti-run on valve?David -----Original Message----- From: DAVID MASSEY To: fishplate at gmail.com ; davgil at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Jul 30, 2021 7:36 am Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system It could be many things.? I had an issue like this but the engine died after a few minutes.? When I opened the gas filler there was a great rush of air and the tank oil-canned.? My problem turned out to be the vinyl hose leading from the trunk area to the engine bar had sagged down and contacted the exhaust system and melted shut. Make sure your system is per design and not missing something.? There is typically a liquid/vapor separator near the tank.? If that was bypassed you will get liquid fuel where it shouldn't be. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Scarbrough To: davgil at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Jul 29, 2021 7:20 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system Is the switch/valve on the bottom of the carbon canister operating correctly? Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. On Wed, Jul 28, 2021 at 3:04 PM wrote: > > I just replaced the fuel tank in my 1976 TR6 and after a short drive, I noticed a leak coming from the vent connection on top of the tank.? I tightened the nut on the connection, but don't really understand why there would be gas in the vent line.? I also noticed that when I opened the fuel cap, there was a hiss like a suction.? I feel that either the vent line, which seems open when I blow air through it from the cannister attachment or the carb bowls (ZS 175s) may be too full and there is a vacuum that is pulling fuel out of the bowls.? My TR6 does run rich.? I don't understand why there would be a vacuum in the tank.? Also, I noticed a bit of oil around the oil fill cap which I have never seen before.? I checked the oil and the level seems correct.? I thought I smelled a bit of gas in it, but that may have been a bit of imagination on my part.? Any suggestions would be appreciated. > Regards, > David Gill > 1976 TR6 > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davgil at aol.com Sat Jul 31 12:01:57 2021 From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com) Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2021 18:01:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system In-Reply-To: <1484315199.886099.1627748754213@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1663583430.397426.1627499035209.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1663583430.397426.1627499035209@mail.yahoo.com> <1703288029.797273.1627645019318@mail.yahoo.com> <1612745952.1008100.1627746680060@mail.yahoo.com> <1484315199.886099.1627748754213@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <737040302.1015668.1627754517908@mail.yahoo.com> Hooked everything back up and went for a drive.? No leaks and no? -----Original Message----- From: DAVID MASSEY To: davgil at aol.com ; fishplate at gmail.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Jul 31, 2021 12:25 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system My experience is that if the valve is energized while the engine is running the care will not idle or will idle very poorly at best.? Do you have any such symptoms? Dave -----Original Message----- From: davgil at aol.com To: dave1massey at cs.com ; fishplate at gmail.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Jul 31, 2021 10:51 am Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system Thanks Dave and Jeff.??I think that while the vent line may be partially blocked, it is sufficiently open to pass vapor and fuel.? I think that Jeff may have hit on the problem being the anit-run on valve.? ?I was working on the fuel system, I think that I have inadvertently knocked a couple of connections off of the oil pressure sending unit.? My gauge registers oil pressure properly, and that wire was not disconnected.? However, if I put the two wires back on one way, the oil pressure warning light comes on and stays on.? This is clearly wrong, so I reversed the wires.? I cannot tell if the anti-run on valve is now working properly.? I did note that when one of? the wires accidently touched the oil pressure wire, I saw a spark and clearly heard a click at the anti-run on valve solenoid.? However, when I connected the wire to the other post on the sending unit, I could not hear a click when cranking or shutting down the engine.? I have looked through my Haynes manual, but don't see a diagnostic procedure and the only wiring diagram I have is for a RHD PI unit.? Mine is LHD carbureted.? Any advice as to how to verify the correct wiring for the anti-run on valve?David -----Original Message----- From: DAVID MASSEY To: fishplate at gmail.com ; davgil at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Jul 30, 2021 7:36 am Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system It could be many things.? I had an issue like this but the engine died after a few minutes.? When I opened the gas filler there was a great rush of air and the tank oil-canned.? My problem turned out to be the vinyl hose leading from the trunk area to the engine bar had sagged down and contacted the exhaust system and melted shut. Make sure your system is per design and not missing something.? There is typically a liquid/vapor separator near the tank.? If that was bypassed you will get liquid fuel where it shouldn't be. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Scarbrough To: davgil at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Jul 29, 2021 7:20 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system Is the switch/valve on the bottom of the carbon canister operating correctly? Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. On Wed, Jul 28, 2021 at 3:04 PM wrote: > > I just replaced the fuel tank in my 1976 TR6 and after a short drive, I noticed a leak coming from the vent connection on top of the tank.? I tightened the nut on the connection, but don't really understand why there would be gas in the vent line.? I also noticed that when I opened the fuel cap, there was a hiss like a suction.? I feel that either the vent line, which seems open when I blow air through it from the cannister attachment or the carb bowls (ZS 175s) may be too full and there is a vacuum that is pulling fuel out of the bowls.? My TR6 does run rich.? I don't understand why there would be a vacuum in the tank.? Also, I noticed a bit of oil around the oil fill cap which I have never seen before.? I checked the oil and the level seems correct.? I thought I smelled a bit of gas in it, but that may have been a bit of imagination on my part.? Any suggestions would be appreciated. > Regards, > David Gill > 1976 TR6 > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davgil at aol.com Sat Jul 31 12:03:04 2021 From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com) Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2021 18:03:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system In-Reply-To: <1484315199.886099.1627748754213@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1663583430.397426.1627499035209.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1663583430.397426.1627499035209@mail.yahoo.com> <1703288029.797273.1627645019318@mail.yahoo.com> <1612745952.1008100.1627746680060@mail.yahoo.com> <1484315199.886099.1627748754213@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <254504603.1023777.1627754584831@mail.yahoo.com> Hooked everything back up and went for a drive.? No leaks and no hiss when I opened the cap.? Must have been the wiring and the anti-run on valve must be working now.? Thanks for all of your help.David Gill -----Original Message----- From: DAVID MASSEY To: davgil at aol.com ; fishplate at gmail.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Jul 31, 2021 12:25 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system My experience is that if the valve is energized while the engine is running the care will not idle or will idle very poorly at best.? Do you have any such symptoms? Dave -----Original Message----- From: davgil at aol.com To: dave1massey at cs.com ; fishplate at gmail.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Jul 31, 2021 10:51 am Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system Thanks Dave and Jeff.??I think that while the vent line may be partially blocked, it is sufficiently open to pass vapor and fuel.? I think that Jeff may have hit on the problem being the anit-run on valve.? ?I was working on the fuel system, I think that I have inadvertently knocked a couple of connections off of the oil pressure sending unit.? My gauge registers oil pressure properly, and that wire was not disconnected.? However, if I put the two wires back on one way, the oil pressure warning light comes on and stays on.? This is clearly wrong, so I reversed the wires.? I cannot tell if the anti-run on valve is now working properly.? I did note that when one of? the wires accidently touched the oil pressure wire, I saw a spark and clearly heard a click at the anti-run on valve solenoid.? However, when I connected the wire to the other post on the sending unit, I could not hear a click when cranking or shutting down the engine.? I have looked through my Haynes manual, but don't see a diagnostic procedure and the only wiring diagram I have is for a RHD PI unit.? Mine is LHD carbureted.? Any advice as to how to verify the correct wiring for the anti-run on valve?David -----Original Message----- From: DAVID MASSEY To: fishplate at gmail.com ; davgil at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Jul 30, 2021 7:36 am Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system It could be many things.? I had an issue like this but the engine died after a few minutes.? When I opened the gas filler there was a great rush of air and the tank oil-canned.? My problem turned out to be the vinyl hose leading from the trunk area to the engine bar had sagged down and contacted the exhaust system and melted shut. Make sure your system is per design and not missing something.? There is typically a liquid/vapor separator near the tank.? If that was bypassed you will get liquid fuel where it shouldn't be. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Scarbrough To: davgil at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Jul 29, 2021 7:20 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system Is the switch/valve on the bottom of the carbon canister operating correctly? Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. On Wed, Jul 28, 2021 at 3:04 PM wrote: > > I just replaced the fuel tank in my 1976 TR6 and after a short drive, I noticed a leak coming from the vent connection on top of the tank.? I tightened the nut on the connection, but don't really understand why there would be gas in the vent line.? I also noticed that when I opened the fuel cap, there was a hiss like a suction.? I feel that either the vent line, which seems open when I blow air through it from the cannister attachment or the carb bowls (ZS 175s) may be too full and there is a vacuum that is pulling fuel out of the bowls.? My TR6 does run rich.? I don't understand why there would be a vacuum in the tank.? Also, I noticed a bit of oil around the oil fill cap which I have never seen before.? I checked the oil and the level seems correct.? I thought I smelled a bit of gas in it, but that may have been a bit of imagination on my part.? Any suggestions would be appreciated. > Regards, > David Gill > 1976 TR6 > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jul 31 13:33:27 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2021 19:33:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system In-Reply-To: <254504603.1023777.1627754584831@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1663583430.397426.1627499035209.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1663583430.397426.1627499035209@mail.yahoo.com> <1703288029.797273.1627645019318@mail.yahoo.com> <1612745952.1008100.1627746680060@mail.yahoo.com> <1484315199.886099.1627748754213@mail.yahoo.com> <254504603.1023777.1627754584831@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2125161350.1024406.1627760007088@mail.yahoo.com> Nothing succeeds like success.? Enjoy. Dave -----Original Message----- From: davgil at aol.com To: dave1massey at cs.com ; fishplate at gmail.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Jul 31, 2021 1:03 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system Hooked everything back up and went for a drive.? No leaks and no hiss when I opened the cap.? Must have been the wiring and the anti-run on valve must be working now.? Thanks for all of your help.David Gill -----Original Message----- From: DAVID MASSEY To: davgil at aol.com ; fishplate at gmail.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Jul 31, 2021 12:25 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system My experience is that if the valve is energized while the engine is running the care will not idle or will idle very poorly at best.? Do you have any such symptoms? Dave -----Original Message----- From: davgil at aol.com To: dave1massey at cs.com ; fishplate at gmail.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Jul 31, 2021 10:51 am Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system Thanks Dave and Jeff.??I think that while the vent line may be partially blocked, it is sufficiently open to pass vapor and fuel.? I think that Jeff may have hit on the problem being the anit-run on valve.? ?I was working on the fuel system, I think that I have inadvertently knocked a couple of connections off of the oil pressure sending unit.? My gauge registers oil pressure properly, and that wire was not disconnected.? However, if I put the two wires back on one way, the oil pressure warning light comes on and stays on.? This is clearly wrong, so I reversed the wires.? I cannot tell if the anti-run on valve is now working properly.? I did note that when one of? the wires accidently touched the oil pressure wire, I saw a spark and clearly heard a click at the anti-run on valve solenoid.? However, when I connected the wire to the other post on the sending unit, I could not hear a click when cranking or shutting down the engine.? I have looked through my Haynes manual, but don't see a diagnostic procedure and the only wiring diagram I have is for a RHD PI unit.? Mine is LHD carbureted.? Any advice as to how to verify the correct wiring for the anti-run on valve?David -----Original Message----- From: DAVID MASSEY To: fishplate at gmail.com ; davgil at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Jul 30, 2021 7:36 am Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system It could be many things.? I had an issue like this but the engine died after a few minutes.? When I opened the gas filler there was a great rush of air and the tank oil-canned.? My problem turned out to be the vinyl hose leading from the trunk area to the engine bar had sagged down and contacted the exhaust system and melted shut. Make sure your system is per design and not missing something.? There is typically a liquid/vapor separator near the tank.? If that was bypassed you will get liquid fuel where it shouldn't be. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Scarbrough To: davgil at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Jul 29, 2021 7:20 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 evaporative system Is the switch/valve on the bottom of the carbon canister operating correctly? Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. On Wed, Jul 28, 2021 at 3:04 PM wrote: > > I just replaced the fuel tank in my 1976 TR6 and after a short drive, I noticed a leak coming from the vent connection on top of the tank.? I tightened the nut on the connection, but don't really understand why there would be gas in the vent line.? I also noticed that when I opened the fuel cap, there was a hiss like a suction.? I feel that either the vent line, which seems open when I blow air through it from the cannister attachment or the carb bowls (ZS 175s) may be too full and there is a vacuum that is pulling fuel out of the bowls.? My TR6 does run rich.? I don't understand why there would be a vacuum in the tank.? Also, I noticed a bit of oil around the oil fill cap which I have never seen before.? I checked the oil and the level seems correct.? I thought I smelled a bit of gas in it, but that may have been a bit of imagination on my part.? Any suggestions would be appreciated. > Regards, > David Gill > 1976 TR6 > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat Jul 31 14:48:48 2021 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net) Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2021 16:48:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 for sale Message-ID: <00bd01d7864d$76f6ab80$64e40280$@uprichard.net> Listers: I was approached by a woman whose father had died and left her with a TR4. The story is that he bought it (second owner) in 1967 and drove it for 10 years when he had some sort of mechanical problem and pulled the engine. As often happens, the engine sat and nothing happened - for 44 years! The car is a wood dash TR4, 1964. Non-overdrive (the gearbox is out of the car). Disc wheels. White with black interior. Titled in the state of Michigan. The car is otherwise intact and the amazing thing is that I found absolutely no rust on the car or frame. If someone is restoring a TR4 and has had it with rust, this car would be a perfect answer. I was asked to put a price on the car and I felt, given its rust-free condition, she should not take less than $4000. She asked me to put out this message before listing it on eBay or Craigslist. I have no financial interest: if anyone gets back to me, I will put them in touch with the owner. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: