[TR] TR6: gauge LEDs and headlight switches
Tim Gaines
mtgaines at presby.edu
Wed Dec 1 09:52:25 MST 2021
Despite some difficulties I'm making progress in installing LiteZupp
LEDs into the instruments in my 1974 LHD TR6. The difficulties stem from
my (possibly foolish) decision to do the job without removing the dash.
With the help of a couple of long-reach needle nose pliers I've replaced
the two illumination bulbs in each of the speedo and tach and the single
ones in the temperature and oil pressure gauges, not without several
scrapes to my fingers. However, I really don't think that will work with
the fuel and temperature gauges on the right. There are just too many
obstacles, so something is going to have to be removed, likely either
the radio or the glove box or both. It looks to me as if the glove box
space would provide the best access, but I have read of some
difficulties in getting it back in place after removal. I would
appreciate any advice from those who have done these bulb replacements
or taken out the glove box.
In the process of doing this bulb job I came across another problem. The
new LED for the high beam indicator just wouldn't light, and it didn't
matter which of the new LEDs I put in. So I went back to the old
incandescent bulb and it didn't light either despite having worked a
short time earlier. After checking the wiring to the socket and finding
no issues I decided that the problem must be the iffy headlight dimmer
switch on the right side of the steering column. I say "iffy" because
occasionally I had found that switching to high beam left me with no
headlights at all! I took off the plastic cowlings and got access to the
switch though I couldn't pull it out because its wires are clamped
within a channel under the steering column. Nevertheless, I could pivot
the switch out to get a narrow view of its innards and insert the thin
nozzle from a can of WD40, hoping for a lucky fix. The result was that
the switch, when re-attached with its retaining screws, would now pivot
toward me, something it never would do before. With the battery
re-attached as well, that pivot action produced a high beam flash that
also lit the beam indicator! I never knew I had a high beam flash in
this old car! So, everything was fixed!? Not so much. The light switch
on the dash wouldn't give me headlights at all despite the fact that it
would give me interior lights and the other exterior ones.
It was time to get out Dan Masters' guide to electronics, and as always
with this manual, I now understand the circuitry and my remaining
problem. When everything is working, the flash function of the dimmer
switch takes voltage from a fuse to the high beams directly regardless
of whether the light switch on the dash is set for headlights. When the
dash switch is set for headlights the voltage is taken directly from the
battery to the column switch that determines whether low or high beams
are activated. In following Masters' troubleshooting steps, I found that
my dash light switch was bad. It must have failed as I repeatedly
flipped it off and on to test all the new LEDs going in! I removed it,
verified with a meter that it was bad but managed to clean it up inside,
and it now tests okay. Today I plan to spray some electronic contact
cleaner (not just WD40) into the dimmer switch and hope that all of its
settings will work okay after I put the dash switch back in.
I'm sorry for the diversion into headlights. What I really want to know
now is how to get those last two gauges illuminated with new LEDs.
Tim
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